The Travels of Marco Polo — Volume 1 by Marco Polo and da Pisa Rusticiano

CHAPTER XXXIX.

4800 words  |  Chapter 297

OF THE CITY OF LOP AND THE GREAT DESERT. Lop is a large town at the edge of the Desert, which is called the Desert of Lop, and is situated between east and north-east. It belongs to the Great Kaan, and the people worship Mahommet. Now, such persons as propose to cross the Desert take a week’s rest in this town to refresh themselves and their cattle; and then they make ready for the journey, taking with them a month’s supply for man and beast. On quitting this city they enter the Desert. The length of this Desert is so great that ’tis said it would take a year and more to ride from one end of it to the other. And here, where its breadth is least, it takes a month to cross it. ’Tis all composed of hills and valleys of sand, and not a thing to eat is to be found on it. But after riding for a day and a night you find fresh water, enough mayhap for some 50 or 100 persons with their beasts, but not for more. And all across the Desert you will find water in like manner, that is to say, in some 28 places altogether you will find good water, but in no great quantity; and in four places also you find brackish water.{1} Beasts there are none; for there is nought for them to eat. But there is a marvellous thing related of this Desert, which is that when travellers are on the move by night, and one of them chances to lag behind or to fall asleep or the like, when he tries to gain his company again he will hear spirits talking, and will suppose them to be his comrades. Sometimes the spirits will call him by name; and thus shall a traveller ofttimes be led astray so that he never finds his party. And in this way many have perished. [Sometimes the stray travellers will hear as it were the tramp and hum of a great cavalcade of people away from the real line of road, and taking this to be their own company they will follow the sound; and when day breaks they find that a cheat has been put on them and that they are in an ill plight.{2}] Even in the day-time one hears those spirits talking. And sometimes you shall hear the sound of a variety of musical instruments, and still more commonly the sound of drums. [Hence in making this journey ’tis customary for travellers to keep close together. All the animals too have bells at their necks, so that they cannot easily get astray. And at sleeping-time a signal is put up to show the direction of the next march.] So thus it is that the Desert is crossed.{3} NOTE 1.—LOP appears to be the _Napopo_, _i.e._ _Navapa_, of Hiuen Tsang, called also the country of _Leulan_, in the Desert. (_Mém._ II. p. 247.) _Navapa_ looks like Sanskrit. If so, this carries ancient Indian influence to the verge of the great Gobi. [See _supra_, p. 190.] It is difficult to reconcile with our maps the statement of a thirty days’ journey across the Desert from Lop to Shachau. Ritter’s extracts, indeed, regarding this Desert, show that the constant occurrence of sandhills and deep drifts (our traveller’s “hills and valleys of sand”) makes the passage extremely difficult for carts and cattle. (III. 375.) But I suspect that there is some material error in the longitude of Lake Lop as represented in our maps, and that it should be placed _something like three degrees_ more to the westward than we find it (_e.g._) in Kiepert’s Map of Asia. By that map Khotan is not far short of 600 miles from the western extremity of Lake Lop. By Johnson’s Itinerary (including his own journey to Kiria) it is only 338 miles from Ilchi to Lob. Mr. Shaw, as we have seen, gives us a little more, but it is only even then 380. Polo unfortunately omits his usual estimate for the extent of the “Province of Charchan,” so he affords us no complete datum. But his distance between Charchan and Lob agrees fairly, as we have seen, with that both of Johnson and of Shaw, and the elbow on the road from Kiria to Charchan (_supra_, p. 192) necessitates our still further abridging the longitude between Khotan and Lop. (See Shaw’s remarks in _Proc. R. G. S._ XVI. 243.) [This desert was known in China of old by the name of _Lew-sha_, _i.e._ “Quicksand,” or literally, “Flowing sands.” (_Palladius, Jour. N. China B. R. As. Soc._ N.S. X. 1875, p. 4.) A most interesting problem is connected with the situation of Lob-nor which led to some controversy between Baron von Richthofen and Prjevalsky. The latter placed the lake one degree more to the south than the Chinese did, and found that its water was sweet. Richthofen agreed with the Chinese Topographers and wrote in a letter to Sir Henry Yule: “I send you two tracings; one of them is a true copy of the Chinese map, the other is made from a sketch which I constructed to-day, and on which I tried to put down the Chinese Topography together with that of Prjevalsky. It appears evident—(1) That Prjevalsky travelled by the ancient road to a point south of the true Lop-noor; (2) that long before he reached this point he found the river courses quite different from what they had been formerly; and (3) that following one of the new rivers which flows due south by a new road, he reached the two sweet-water lakes, one of which answers to the ancient Khas-omo. I use the word ‘new’ merely by way of comparison with the state of things in Kien-long’s time, when the map was made. It appears that the Chinese map shows the Khas Lake too far north to cover the Kara-Koshun. The bifurcation of the roads south of the lake nearly resembles that which is marked by Prjevalsky.” (Preface of E. D. Morgan’s transl. of _From Kulja across the Tian Shan to Lob-nor_, by Colonel N. Prjevalsky, London, 1879, p. iv.) In this same volume Baron von Richthofen’s remarks are given (pp. 135–159, with a map, p. 144), showing comparison between Chinese and Prjevalsky’s Geography from tracings by Baron von Richthofen and (pp. 160–165) a translation of Prjevalsky’s replies to the Baron’s criticisms. Now the Swedish traveller, Dr. Sven Hedin, claims to have settled this knotty point. Going from Korla, south-west of Kara-shahr, by a road at the foot of the Kurugh-tagh and between these mountains and the Koncheh Daria, he discovered the ruins of two fortresses, and a series of milestones (potaïs). These tall pyramids of clay and wood, indicating distances in _lis_, show the existence at an ancient period of a road with a large traffic between Korla and an unknown place to the south-east, probably on the shores of the Chinese Lob-nor. Prjevalsky, who passed between the Lower Tarim and the Koncheh Daria, could not see a lake or the remains of a lake to the east of this river. The Koncheh Daria expands into a marshy basin, the Malta Kul, from which it divides into two branches, the Kuntiekkich Tarim (East River) and the Ilek (river) to the E.S.E. Dr. Sven Hedin, after following the course of the Ilek for three days (4th April, 1896) found a large sheet of water in the valley at the very place marked by the Chinese Topographers and Richthofen for the Lob-nor. This mass of water is divided up by the natives into Avullu Kul, Kara Kul, Tayek Kul, and Arka Kul, which are actually almost filled up with reeds. Dr. Sven Hedin afterwards visited the Lob-nor of Prjevalsky, and reached its western extremity, the Kara-buran (black storm) on the 17th April. In 1885, Prjevalsky had found the Lob-nor an immense lake; four years later Prince Henri d’Orléans saw it greatly reduced in size, and Dr. Sven Hedin discovered but pools of water. In the meantime, since 1885, the northern (Chinese) Lob-nor has gradually filled up, so the lake is somewhat vagrant. Dr. Sven Hedin says that from his observations he can assert that Prjevalsky’s lake is of recent formation. So Marco Polo’s Lob-nor should be the northern or Chinese lake. Another proof of this given by Dr. Sven Hedin is that the Chinese give the name of Lob to the region between Arghan and Tikkenlik, unknown in the country of the southern lake. The existence of two lakes shows what a quantity of water from the Thian Shan, the Eastern Pamir, and Northern Tibet flows into the basin of the Tarim. The Russian Lieutenant K. P. Kozlov has tried since to prove that the Chinese Lob-nor is the Kara-Koshun (Black district), which is a second lake formed by the Tarim, which discharges into and issues from the lake Kara-buran. Kozlov’s arguments are published in the _Isvestia_ of the Russian Geographical Society, and in a separate pamphlet. _The Geog. Jour._ (June, 1898, pp. 652–658) contains _The Lob-nor Controversy_, a full statement of the case, summarising Kozlov’s pamphlet. Among the documents relating to the controversy, Kozlov “quotes passages from the Chinese work _Si-yui-shui-dao-tsi_, published in 1823, relative to the region, and gives a reduced copy of the Chinese Map published by Dr. Georg Wegener in 1863, upon which map Richthofen and Sven Hedin based their arguments.” Kozlov’s final conclusions (_Geog. Jour._ _l.c._ pp. 657–658) are the following: “The Koncheh-daria, since very remote times till the present day, has moved a long way. The spot Gherelgan may be taken as a spot of relative permanence of its bed, while the basis of its delta is a line traced from the farthest northern border of the area of salt clays surrounding the Lob-nor to the Tarim. At a later period the Koncheh-daria mostly influenced the lower Tarim, and each time a change occurred in the latter’s discharge, the Koncheh took a more westward course, to the detriment of its old eastern branch (Ilek). Always following the gradually receding humidity, the vegetable life changed too, while moving sands were taking its place, conquering more and more ground for the desert, and marking their conquest by remains of old shore-lines.... “The facts noticed by Sven Hedin have thus another meaning—the desert to the east of the lakes, which he discovered, was formed, not by Lob-nor, which is situated 1° southwards, but by the Koncheh-daria, in its unremitted deflection to the west. The old bed Ilek, lake-shaped in places, and having a belt of salt lagoons and swamps along its eastern shores, represents remains of waters belonging, not to Lob-nor, but to the shifting river which has abandoned this old bed. “These facts and explanations refute the second point of the arguments which were brought forward by Sven Hedin in favour of his hypothesis, asserting the existence of some other Lob-nor. “I accept the third point of his objections, namely, that the grandfathers of the present inhabitants of the Lob-nor lived by a lake whose position was more to the north of Lob-nor; that was mentioned already by Pievtsov, and the lake was Uchu-Kul. “Why Marco Polo never mentioned the Lob-nor, I leave to more competent persons to decide. “The only inference which I can make from the preceding account is that the Kara-Koshun-Kul is not only the Lob-nor of my lamented teacher, N. M. Prjevalsky, but also _the ancient, the historical, and the true Lob-nor_ of the Chinese geographers. So it was during the last thousand years, and so will it remain, if ‘the river of time’ in its running has not effaced it from the face of the Earth.” To Kozlov’s query: “Why Marco Polo never mentioned the Lob-nor, I leave to more competent persons to decide,” I have little hesitation in replying that he did not mention the Lob-nor because he did not see it. From Charchan, he followed, I believe, neither Prjevalsky’s nor Pievtsov’s route, but the old route from Khotan to Si-ngan fu, in the old bed of the Charchan daria, above and almost parallel to the new bed, to the Tarim,—then between Sven Hedin’s and Prjevalsky’s lakes, and across the desert to Shachau to join the ancient Chinese road of the Han Dynasty, partly explored by M. Bonin from Shachau. There is no doubt as to the discovery of Prjevalsky’s Lob-nor, but this does not appear to be the old Chinese Lob-nor; in fact, there may have been several lakes co-existent; probably there was one to the east of the mass of water described by Dr. Sven Hedin, near the old route from Korla to Shachau; there is no fixity in these waterspreads and the soil of this part of Asia, and in the course of a few years some discrepancies will naturally arise between the observations of different travellers. But as I think that Marco Polo did not see one of the Lob-nor, but travelled between them, there is no necessity to enlarge on this question, fully treated of in this note. See besides the works mentioned above: _Nord—Tibet und Lob-nur Gebiet_.... herausg. von Dr. G. Wegener. Berlin, 1893. (Sep. abd. _Zeit. Ges. f. Erdk._)—_Die Geog. wiss. Ergebnisse meiner Reisen in Zentralasien_, 1894–1897, von Dr. Sven Hedin, Gotha, J. Perthes, 1900. Bonvalot and Prince Henri d’Orléans (_De Paris au Tonkin, à travers le Tibet inconnu_, Paris, 1892) followed this Itinerary: Semipalatinsk, Kulja, Korla, Lob-nor, Charkalyk, Altyn Tagh, almost a straight line to Tengri Nor, then to Batang, Ta Tsien lu, Ning-yuan, Yun-nan-fu, Mong-tsŭ, and Tung-King. Bonvalot (28th October, 1889) describes Lob in this manner: “The village of Lob is situated at some distance from [the Charchan daria]; its inhabitants come to see us; they are miserable, hungry, _étiques_; they offer us for sale smoked fish, duck taken with _lacet_. Some small presents soon make friends of them. They apprize us that news has spread that Pievtsov, the Russian traveller, will soon arrive” (_l.c._ p. 75). From Charkalyk, Prince Henri d’Orléans and Father Dedeken visited Lob-nor (_l.c._ p. 77 _et seq._), but it was almost dry; the water had receded since Prjevalsky’s visit, thirteen years before. The Prince says the Lob-nor he saw was not Prjevalsky’s, nor was the latter’s lake the mass of water on Chinese maps; an old sorceress gave confirmation of the fact to the travellers. According to a tradition known from one generation to another, there was at this place a large inland sea without reeds, and the elders had seen in their youth large ponds; they say that the earth impregnated with saltpetre absorbs the water. The Prince says, according to tradition, _Lob_ is a local name meaning “wild animals,” and it was given to the country at the time it was crossed by Kalmuk caravans; they added to the name _Lob_ the Mongol word _Nor_ (Great Lake). The travellers (p. 109) note that in fact the name Lob-nor does not apply to a Lake, but to the whole marshy part of the country watered by the Tarim, from the village of Lob to end of the river. The Pievtsov expedition “visited the Lob-nor (2650 feet) and the Tarim, whose proper name is Yarkend-daria (_tarim_ means ‘a tilled field’ in Kashgarian). The lake is rapidly drying up, and a very old man, 110 years old, whom Pievtsov spoke to (his son, 52 years old, was the only one who could understand the old man), said that he would not have recognized the land if he had been absent all this time. Ninety years ago there was only a narrow strip of rushes in the south-west part of the lake, and the Yarkend-daria entered it 2½ miles to the west of its present mouth, where now stands the village of Abdal. The lake was then much deeper, and several villages, now abandoned, stood on its shores. There was also much more fish, and otters, which used to live there, but have long since disappeared. As to the Yarkend-daria, tradition says that two hundred years ago it used to enter another smaller lake, Uchukul, which was connected by a channel with the Lob-nor. This old bed, named Shirga-chapkan, can still be traced by the trees which grew along it. The greater previous extension of the Lob-nor is also confirmed by the freshwater molluscs (_Limnaea uricularia_, var. _ventricosa_, _L. stagnalis_, _L. peregra_, and _Planorbis sibiricus_), which are found at a distance from its present banks. Another lake, 400 miles in circumference, Kara-boyön (_black isthmus_), lies, as is known, 27 miles to the south-west of Lob-nor. To the east of the lake, a salt desert stretches for a seven days’ march, and further on begin the Kum-tagh sands, where wild camels live.” (_Geog. Jour._ IX. 1897, p. 552.) Grenard (III. pp. 194–195) discusses the Lob-nor question and the formation of four new lakes by the Koncheh-daria called by the natives beginning at the north; Kara Kul, Tayek Kul, Sugut Kul, Tokum Kul. He does not accept Baron v. Richthofen’s theory, and believes that the old Lob is the lake seen by Prjevalsky. He says (p. 149): “Lop must be looked for on the actual road from Charchan to Charkalyk. Ouash Shahri, five days from Charchan, and where small ruins are to be found, corresponds well to the position of Lop according to Marco Polo, a few degrees of the compass near. But the stream which passes at this spot could never be important enough for the wants of a considerable centre of habitation and the ruins of Ouash Shahri are more of a hamlet than of a town. Moreover, Lop was certainly the meeting point of the roads of Kashgar, Urumtsi, Shachau, L’Hasa, and Khotan, and it is to this fact that this town, situated in a very poor country, owed its relative importance. Now, it is impossible that these roads crossed at Ouash Shahri. I believe that Lop was built on the site of Charkalyk itself. The Venetian traveller gives five days’ journey between Charchan and Lop, whilst Charkalyk is really seven days from Charchan; but the objection does not appear sufficient to me: Marco Polo may well have made a mistake of two days.” (III. pp. 149–150.) The Chinese Governor of Urumtsi found some years ago to the north-west of the Lob-nor, on the banks of the Tarim, and within five days of Charkalyk, a town bearing the same name, though not on the same site as the Lop of Marco Polo.—H. C.] NOTE 2.—“The waste and desert places of the Earth are, so to speak, the characters which sin has visibly impressed on the outward creation; its signs and symbols there.... Out of a true feeling of this, men have ever conceived of the Wilderness as the haunt of evil spirits. In the old Persian religion Ahriman and his evil Spirits inhabit the steppes and wastes of Turan, to the north of the happy Iran, which stands under the dominion of Ormuzd; exactly as with the Egyptians, the evil Typhon is the Lord of the Libyan sand-wastes, and Osiris of the fertile Egypt.” (_Archbp. Trench, Studies in the Gospels_, p. 7.) Terror, and the seeming absence of a beneficent Providence, are suggestions of the Desert which must have led men to associate it with evil spirits, rather than the figure with which this passage begins; no spontaneous conception surely, however appropriate as a moral image. “According to the belief of the nations of Central Asia,” says I. J. Schmidt, “the earth and its interior, as well as the encompassing atmosphere, are filled with Spiritual Beings, which exercise an influence, partly beneficent, partly malignant, on the whole of organic and inorganic nature.... Especially are Deserts and other wild or uninhabited tracts, or regions in which the influences of nature are displayed on a gigantic and terrible scale, regarded as the chief abode or rendezvous of evil Spirits.... And hence the steppes of Turan, and in particular the great sandy Desert of Gobi have been looked on as the dwelling-place of malignant beings, from days of hoar antiquity.” The Chinese historian Ma Twan-lin informs us that there were two roads from China into the Uighúr country (towards Karashahr). The longest but easiest road was by Kamul. The other was much shorter, and apparently corresponded, as far as Lop, to that described in this chapter. “By this you have to cross a plain of sand, extending for more than 100 leagues. You see nothing in any direction but the sky and the sands, without the slightest trace of a road; and travellers find nothing to guide them but the bones of men and beasts and the droppings of camels. During the passage of this wilderness you hear sounds, sometimes of singing, sometimes of wailing; and it has often happened that travellers going aside to see what those sounds might be have strayed from their course and been entirely lost; for they were voices of spirits and goblins. ’Tis for these reasons that travellers and merchants often prefer the much longer route by Kamul.” (_Visdelou_, p. 139.) “In the Desert” (this same desert), says Fa-hian, “there are a great many evil demons; there are also sirocco winds, which kill all who encounter them. There are no birds or beasts to be seen; but so far as the eye can reach, the route is marked out by the bleached bones of men who have perished in the attempt to cross.” [“The Lew-sha was the subject of various most exaggerated stories. We find more trustworthy accounts of it in the _Chow shu_; thus it is mentioned in that history, that there sometimes arises in this desert a ‘burning wind,’ pernicious to men and cattle; in such cases the old camels of the caravan, having a presentiment of its approach, flock shrieking to one place, lie down on the ground and hide their heads in the sand. On this signal, the travellers also lie down, close nose and mouth, and remain in this position until the hurricane abates. Unless these precautions are taken, men and beasts inevitably perish.” (_Palladius_, _l.c._ p. 4.) A friend writes to me that he thinks that the accounts of strange noises in the desert would find a remarkable corroboration in the narratives of travellers through the central desert of Australia. They conjecture that they are caused by the sudden falling of cliffs of sand as the temperature changes at night time.—H. C.] Hiuen Tsang, in his passage of the Desert, both outward and homeward, speaks of visual illusions; such as visions of troops marching and halting with gleaming arms and waving banners, constantly shifting, vanishing, and reappearing, “imagery created by demons.” A voice behind him calls, “Fear not! fear not!” Troubled by these fantasies on one occasion, he prays to Kwan-yin (a Buddhist divinity); still he could not entirely get rid of them; but as soon as he had pronounced a few words from the _Prajna_ (a holy book), they vanished in the twinkling of an eye. These Goblins are not peculiar to the Gobi, though that appears to be their most favoured haunt. The awe of the vast and solitary Desert raises them in all similar localities. Pliny speaks of the phantoms that appear and vanish in the deserts of Africa; Aethicus, the early Christian cosmographer, speaks, though incredulous, of the stories that were told of the voices of singers and revellers in the desert; Mas’udi tells of the _Ghúls_, which in the deserts appear to travellers by night and in lonely hours; the traveller, taking them for comrades, follows and is led astray. But the wise revile them and the Ghúls vanish. Thus also Apollonius of Tyana and his companions, in a desert near the Indus by moonlight, see an _Empusa_ or Ghúl taking many forms. They revile it, and it goes off uttering shrill cries. Mas’udi also speaks of the mysterious voices heard by lone wayfarers in the Desert, and he gives a rational explanation of them. Ibn Batuta relates a like legend of the Western Sahara: “If the messenger be solitary, the demons sport with him and fascinate him, so that he strays from his course and perishes.” The Afghan and Persian wildernesses also have their _Ghúl-i-Beában_ or Goblin of the Waste, a gigantic and fearful spectre which devours travellers; and even the Gael of the West Highlands have the _Direach Ghlinn Eitidh_, the Desert Creature of Glen Eiti, which, one-handed, one-eyed, one-legged, seems exactly to answer to the Arabian Nesnás or _Empusa_. Nicolò Conti in the Chaldaean desert is aroused at midnight by a great noise, and sees a vast multitude pass by. The merchants tell him that these are demons who are in the habit of traversing the deserts. (_Schmidt’s San. Setzen_, p. 352; _V. et V. de H. T._ 23, 28, 289; _Pliny_, VII. 2; _Philostratus_, Bk. II. ch. iv.; _Prairies d’Or_, III. 315, 324; _Beale’s Fahian_; _Campbell’s Popular Tales of the W. Highlands_, IV. 326; _I. B._ IV. 382; _Elphinstone_, I. 291; _Chodzko’s Pop. Poetry of Persia_, p. 48; _Conti_, p. 4; _Forsyth, J. R. G. S._ XLVII. 1877, p. 4.) The sound of musical instruments, chiefly of drums, is a phenomenon of another class, and is really produced in certain situations among sandhills when the sand is disturbed. [See _supra_.] A very striking account of a phenomenon of this kind regarded as supernatural is given by Friar Odoric, whose experience I fancy I have traced to the _Reg Ruwán_ or “Flowing Sand” north of Kabul. Besides this celebrated example, which has been described also by the Emperor Baber, I have noted that equally well-known one of the _Jibal Naḳús_, or “Hill of the Bell,” in the Sinai Desert; Wadi Hamade, in the vicinity of the same Desert; the _Jibal-ul-Thabúl_, or “Hill of the Drums,” between Medina and Mecca; one on the Island of Eigg, in the Hebrides, discovered by Hugh Miller; one among the Medanos or Sandhills of Arequipa, described to me by Mr. C. Markham; the Bramador or rumbling mountain of Tarapaca; one in hills between the Ulba and the Irtish, in the vicinity of the Altai, called the Almanac Hills, because the sounds are supposed to prognosticate weather-changes; and a remarkable example near Kolberg on the shore of Pomerania. A Chinese narrative of the 10th century mentions the phenomenon as known near Kwachau, on the eastern border of the Lop Desert, under the name of the “Singing Sands”; and Sir F. Goldsmid has recently made us acquainted with a second _Reg Ruwán_, on a hill near the Perso-Afghan frontier, a little to the north of Sístán. The place is frequented in pilgrimage. (See _Cathay_, pp. ccxliv. 156, 398; _Ritter_, II. 204; _Aus der Natur_, Leipzig, No. 47 [of 1868], p. 752; _Rémusat, H. de Khotan_, p. 74; _Proc. R. G. S._ XVII. 91.) NOTE 3.—[We learn from Joseph Martin, quoted by Grenard, p. 170 (who met this unfortunate French traveller at Khotan, on his way from Peking to Marghelan, where he died), that from Shachau to Abdal, on the Lob-nor, there are twelve days of desert, sandy only during the first two days, stony afterwards. Occasionally a little grass is to be found for the camels; water is to be found everywhere. M. Bonin went from Shachau to the north-west towards the Kara-nor, then to the west, but lack of water compelled him to go back to Shachau. Along this road, every five _lis_, are to be found towers built with clay, and about 30 feet high, abandoned by the Chinese, who do not seem to have kept a remembrance of them in the country; this route seems to be a continuation of the Kan Suh Imperial highway. A wall now destroyed connected these towers together. “There is no doubt,” writes M. Bonin, “that all these remains are those of the great route, vainly sought after till now, which, under the Han Dynasty, ran to China through Bactria, Pamir, Eastern Turkestan, the Desert of Gobi, and Kan Suh: it is in part the route followed by Marco Polo, when he went from Charchan to Shachau, by the city of Lob.” The route of the Han has been also looked for, more to the south, and it was believed that it was the same as that of the Astyn Tagh, followed by Mr. Littledale in 1893, who travelled one month from Abdal (Lob-nor) to Shachau; M. Bonin, who explored also this route, and was twenty-three days from Shachau to Lob-nor, says it could not be a commercial road. Dr. Sven Hedin saw four or five towers eastward of the junction of the Tarim and the Koncheh-daria; it may possibly have been another part of the road seen by M. Bonin. (See _La Géographie_, 15th March, 1901, p. 173.)—H. C.]

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. episode, which was afterwards published as a coloured lithograph by 3. 1864. From this point, Yule made a very interesting excursion to the 4. introduction and notes to Wood’s _Journey_. Soon after his return to 5. 1890. Amongst those present were witnesses of every stage of his 6. 1886. Signed M. P. V.) 7. 27. Some details of 13th-Century Galleys. 28. Fighting 8. 32. Battle in Bay of Ayas in 1294. 33. Lamba Doria’s 9. 67. His true claims to glory. 68. His personal attributes 10. 76. Contemporary References to Polo. T. de Cepoy; Pipino; 11. introduction of Block-printed Books into Europe by Marco Polo 12. introduction in the Age following Polo’s. 13. PROLOGUE. 14. 3. _Alau Lord of the Levant (i.e. |Hulaku|)._ 4. 15. 3. _Religious Indifference of the Mongol Princes._ 16. 2. _Negropont._ 3. _Mark’s age._ 17. 2. _Ramusio’s addition._ 3. _Nature of Marco’s 18. 2. _The Lady Bolgana._ 3. _Passage from Ramusio._ 19. 5. _Mortality among the party._ 6. _The Lady Cocachin 20. 5. _Goshawks._ 6. _Fish Miracle._ 7. _Sea of Ghel 21. 4. _The_ Torizi. 5. _Character of City and People._ 22. 3. _|Ondanique| or Indian Steel._ 4. _Manufactures of 23. 7. _Second Route between Hormuz and Kerman._ 24. 8. _Repeated devastation of the Country from War._ 9. 25. 3. _Khotan._ 26. 4. _Prester John._ 27. 4. _The five species of Crane described by Polo._ 5. 28. 3. _Leopards._ 4. _The Bamboo Palace. Uses of the 29. 6. _The White Horses. The Oirad Tribe._ 7. _The 30. PART I. 31. 4. _Nayan and his true relationship to Kúblái._ 32. 8. _Wide diffusion of the kind of Palace here 33. 12. “Roze de l’açur.” 13. _The Green Mount._ 14. 34. 7. _Addition from Ramusio._ 35. 3. _The Buffet of Liquors._ 4. _The superstition of 36. 3. _Tame Lions._ 37. 7. _The Kaan’s Great Tents._ 8. _The Sable and 38. 4. _Politeness._ 5. _Filial Piety._ 6. _Pocket 39. 1. Marco Polo’s Itineraries, No. I. WESTERN ASIA. This includes 40. 4. Plan of part of the remains of the same city. Reduced from a 41. 41. Plan of position of DILÁWAR, the supposed site of the Dilavar 42. 114. Marco Polo’s Itineraries, No. II. Routes between KERMAN and 43. 178. Marco Polo’s Itineraries, No. III. Regions on and near the 44. 305. Heading, in the old Chinese seal-character, of an INSCRIPTION 45. 319. The CHO-KHANG. The grand Temple of Buddha at _Lhasa_, from _The 46. 352. “_Table d’Or de Commandement_;” the PAÏZA of the MONGOLS, from 47. 355. Second Example of a Mongol Païza with superscription in the 48. 426. BANK-NOTE of the MING Dynasty, on one-half the scale of the 49. 454. Observatory Instruments of the Jesuits. All these from 50. PROLOGUE. 51. 3. Remains of the Castle of SOLDAIA or Sudák. After _Dubois de 52. 7. Ruins of BOLGHAR. After _Demidoff, Voyage dans la Russie 53. 15. The GREAT KAAN delivering a GOLDEN TABLET to the two elder 54. 18. Plan of ACRE as it was when lost (A.D. 1291). Reduced and 55. 21. Portrait of Pope GREGORY X. After _J. B. de Cavaleriis 56. 37. Ancient CHINESE WAR VESSEL. From the Chinese Encyclopædia 57. 42. Coin of King HETUM I. and Queen ISABEL of Cilician Armenia. 58. 51. Mediæval GEORGIAN FORTRESS. From a drawing by Padre CRISTOFORO 59. 55. View of DERBEND. After a cut from a drawing by M. Moynet in the 60. 61. Coin of BADRUDDÍN LOLO of Mosul (A.H. 620). After _Marsden’s 61. 76. GHÁZÁN Khan’s Mosque at TABRIZ. Borrowed from _Fergusson’s 62. 95. KASHMIR SCARF with animals, etc. After photograph from the 63. 100. Humped Oxen from the Assyrian Sculptures at Kouyunjik. From 64. 102. Portrait of a Hazára. From a Photograph, kindly taken for the 65. 118. Ages. 7 figures, viz., No. 1, The Navicella of Giotto in 66. 134. The _ARBRE SEC_, and _ARBRES DU SOLEIL ET DE LA LUNE_. From 67. 137. The CHINÁR or Oriental Plane, viz., that called the Tree of 68. 147. Portrait of H. H. AGHA KHÁN MEHELÁTI, late representative of 69. 159. Ancient SILVER PATERA of debased Greek Art, formerly in the 70. 167. Ancient BUDDHIST Temple at Pandrethan in KÁSHMIR. Borrowed from 71. 176. Horns of the _OVIS POLI_, or Great Sheep of Pamir. Drawn by 72. 177. Figure of the _OVIS POLI_ or Great Sheep of Pamir. From a 73. 180. Head of a native of KASHGAR. After Verchaguine. From the _Tour 74. 184. View of SAMARKAND. From a Sketch by Mr. D. IVANOFF, engraved 75. 221. Colossal Figure; BUDDHA entering NIRVANA. Sketched by the 76. 222. Great LAMA MONASTERY, viz., that at Jehol. After _Staunton’s 77. 224. The _Kyang_, or WILD ASS of Mongolia. After a plate by Wolf in 78. 230. Entrance to the Erdeni Tso, Great Temple. From MARCEL MONNIER’S 79. 244. Death of Chinghiz Khan. From a Miniature in the _Livre des 80. 253. Dressing up a Tent, from MARCEL MONNIER’S _Tour d’Asie_, by 81. 255. Mediæval TARTAR HUTS and WAGGONS. Drawn by Sig. QUINTO CENNI, 82. 258. Tartar IDOLS and KUMIS Churn. Drawn by the Editor after data in 83. 273. The _SYRRHAPTES PALLASII; Bargherlac_ of Marco Polo. From a 84. 280. REEVES’S PHEASANT. After an engraving in _Wood’s Illustrated 85. 293. The RAMPART of GOG and MAGOG. From a photograph of the Great 86. 307. A PAVILION at Yuen-Ming-Yuen, to illustrate the probable style 87. 317. CHINESE CONJURING Extraordinary. Extracted from an engraving in 88. 326. A TIBETAN BACSI. Sketched from the life by the Editor. 89. 340. NAKKARAS. From a Chinese original in the _Lois des Empereurs 90. 341. NAKKARAS. After one of the illustrations in Blochmann’s edition 91. 352. Seljukian Coin, with the LION and the SUN (A.H. 640). After 92. 355. Sculptured GERFALCON from the Gate of Iconium. Copied from 93. 357. Portrait of the Great KAAN KÚBLÁI. From a Chinese engraving in 94. 367. Ideal Plan of the Ancient Palaces of the Mongol Emperors at 95. 369. The WINTER PALACE at PEKING. Borrowed from _Fergusson’s History 96. 371. View of the “GREEN MOUNT.” From a photograph kindly lent to the 97. 373. The _Yüan ch’eng_. From a photograph kindly lent to the present 98. 376. South GATE of the “IMPERIAL CITY” at Peking. From an original 99. 399. The BÚRGÚT EAGLE. After _Atkinson’s Oriental and Western 100. 409. The TENTS of the EMPEROR K’ien-lung. From a drawing in the 101. 413. Plain of CAMBALUC; the City in the distance; from the hills 102. 458. The Great TEMPLE OF HEAVEN at Peking. From _Michie’s Siberian 103. 463. MARBLE ARCHWAY erected under the MONGOL DYNASTY at Kiu-Yong 104. 1. With all the intrinsic interest of Marco Polo’s Book it may perhaps 105. 2. The first person who attempted to gather and string the facts of 106. 3. “Howbeit, during the last hundred years, persons acquainted 107. 4. Ramusio, then, after a brief apologetic parallel of the marvels 108. prologue of Marco Polo’s book that he had derived from a recent piece 109. 6. “Not many months after the arrival of the travellers at Venice, 110. 7. “The captivity of Messer Marco greatly disturbed the minds 111. 8. “As regards the after duration of this noble and worthy family, 112. 9. The story of the travels of the Polo family opens in 1260. 113. 10. In Asia and Eastern Europe scarcely a dog might bark without 114. 11. For about three centuries the Northern provinces of China had been 115. 12. In India the most powerful sovereign was the Sultan of Delhi, 116. 13. In days when History and Genealogy were allowed to draw largely 117. 14. Till quite recently it had never been precisely ascertained whether 118. 15. Of the three sons of Andrea Polo of S. Felice, Marco seems to have 119. 16. Nicolo Polo, the second of the Brothers, had two legitimate sons, 120. 17. Kúblái had never before fallen in with European gentlemen. He was 121. 18. The Brothers arrived at Acre in April,[10] 1269, and found that 122. 19. The Papal interregnum was the longest known, at least since the 123. 20. Kúblái received the Venetians with great cordiality, and took 124. 21. Arghún Khan of Persia, Kúblái’s great-nephew, had in 1286 lost his 125. 22. The princess, whose enjoyment of her royalty was brief, wept as she 126. 1295. The date assigned to it, however, by Marco (ii. 477) is 1294, 127. 23. We have seen that Ramusio places the scene of the story recently 128. 24. The Court which was known in the 16th century as the Corte del 129. 25. And before entering on this new phase of the Traveller’s biography 130. 26. This system of grouping the oars, and putting only one man to an 131. 27. Returning then to the three-banked and two-banked galleys of the 132. 28. Midships in the mediæval galley a castle was erected, of the width 133. 29. We have already mentioned that Sanudo requires for his three-banked 134. 30. The musicians formed an important part of the equipment. Sanudo 135. 1503. The crew amounted to 200, of whom 150 were for working the 136. 31. Jealousies, too characteristic of the Italian communities, were, 137. 32. Truces were made and renewed, but the old fire still smouldered. In 138. 33. In 1298 the Genoese made elaborate preparations for a great blow at 139. 34. It was on the afternoon of Saturday the 6th September that the 140. 35. The battle began early on Sunday and lasted till the afternoon. The 141. 36. Howsoever they may have been treated, here was Marco Polo one of 142. episode in Polo’s biography. 143. 37. Something further requires to be said before quitting this event in 144. 1278. On this occasion is recorded a remarkable anticipation of 145. 38. We have now to say something of that Rusticiano to whom all who 146. 39. Who, then, was Rusticiano, or, as the name actually is read in the 147. 40. Rustician’s literary work appears from the extracts and remarks of 148. 41. A question may still occur to an attentive reader as to the 149. 42. In Dunlop’s History of Fiction a passage is quoted from the 150. 353. The alleged gift to Rustician is also put forth by D’Israeli 151. 43. A few very disconnected notices are all that can be collected of 152. 44. In 1302 occurs what was at first supposed to be a glimpse of 153. 45. A little later we hear of Marco once more, as presenting a copy of 154. 46. When Marco married we have not been able to ascertain, but it was 155. 47. We catch sight of our Traveller only once more. It is on the 9th of 156. 48. He was buried, no doubt, according to his declared wish, in the 157. 49. From the short series of documents recently alluded to,[28] we 158. 2. He had drafted his will with his own hand, sealed the draft, 159. 3. Appoints as Trustees Messer Maffeo Polo his uncle, Marco Polo 160. 4. Leaves 20 _soldi_ to each of the Monasteries from Grado to Capo 161. 5. To his daughter Fiordelisa 2000 _lire_ to marry her withal. To 162. 6. To his wife Catharine 400 _lire_ and all her clothes as they 163. 7. To his natural daughter Pasqua 400 _lire_ to marry her withal. 164. 8. To his natural brothers Stephen and Giovannino he leaves 500 165. 100. To Fiordelisa, wife of Felix Polo, 100. To Maroca, the 166. 10. To buy Public Debt producing an annual 20 _lire ai grossi_ to 167. 11. Should his wife prove with child and bear a son or sons they 168. 12. If he have no male heir his Brother Marco shall have the 169. 13. Should Daughter Fiordelisa die unmarried her 2000 _lire_ and 170. 14. Should his wife bear him a male heir or heirs, but these should 171. 15. Should his wife bear a daughter and she die unmarried, her 172. 16. Should the whole amount of his property between cash and goods 173. 1342. And some years later we have in the Sicilian Archives an 174. 50. The Book itself consists essentially of Two Parts. _First_, of 175. 51. As regards the language in which Marco’s Book was first 176. 52. The French Text that we have been quoting, published by the 177. 53. Another circumstance, heretofore I believe unnoticed, is in itself 178. 54. But, after all, the circumstantial evidence that has been adduced 179. 55. In treating of the various Texts of Polo’s Book we must necessarily 180. 56. II. The next Type is that of the French MSS. on which M. Pauthier’s 181. 57. There is another curious circumstance about the MSS. of this 182. 58. III. The next Type of Text is that found in Friar Pipino’s Latin 183. 59. The absence of effective publication in the Middle Ages led to a 184. 60. IV. We now come to a Type of Text which deviates largely from 185. 61. Thus we find substituted for the _Bastra_ (or _Bascra_) of the 186. 62. Of circumstances certainly genuine, which are peculiar to this 187. 63. Though difficulties will certainly remain,[17] the most probable 188. 64. To sum up. It is, I think, beyond reasonable dispute that we 189. 65. Whilst upon this subject of manuscripts of our Author, I will give 190. 1. The mention of the death of Kúblái (see note 7, p. 38 of this 191. 2. Mr. Hugh Murray objects that whilst in the old texts Polo 192. 3. The same editor points to the manner in which one of the 193. 1. In the chapter on Georgia: 194. 3. After the chapter on Mosul is another short chapter, already 195. 4. In the chapter on _Tarcan_ (for Carcan, _i.e._ Yarkand): 196. 5. In the Desert of Lop: 197. 7. “Et in medio hujus viridarii est palacium sive logia, _tota 198. 66. That Marco Polo has been so universally recognised as the King of 199. 67. Surely Marco’s real, indisputable, and, in their kind, unique 200. 68. What manner of man was Ser Marco? It is a question hard to answer. 201. 69. Of scientific notions, such as we find in the unveracious 202. 70. The Book, however, is full of bearings and distances, and I have 203. 71. In the early part of the Book we are told that Marco acquired 204. 72. A question naturally suggests itself, how far Polo’s narrative, 205. 73. On the other hand, though Marco, who had left home at fifteen 206. 74. We have seen in the most probable interpretation of the nickname 207. Introduction, p. 55.) There is a curious parallel between the two 208. 75. But we must return for a little to Polo’s own times. Ramusio 209. 76. Of contemporary or nearly contemporary references to our Traveller 210. 77. Lastly, we learn from a curious passage in a medical work by PIETRO 211. 78. There is, however, a notable work which is ascribed to a rather 212. 79. Marco Polo contributed such a vast amount of new facts to the 213. 80. As regards the second cause alleged, we may say that down nearly to 214. 81. Even Ptolemy seems to have been almost unknown; and indeed had his 215. 82. Among the Arabs many able men, from the early days of Islám, 216. 83. Some distinct trace of acquaintance with the Arabian Geography is 217. 84. The first genuine mediæval attempt at a geographical construction 218. 85. In the following age we find more frequent indications that Polo’s 219. 86. The Maps of Mercator (1587) and Magini (1597) are similar in 220. 87. Before concluding, it may be desirable to say a few words on the 221. 88. Mr. Curzon’s own observations, which I have italicised about 222. 89. It remains to say a few words regarding the basis adopted for our 223. 90. It will be clear from what has been said in the preceding pages 224. 91. As regards the reading of proper names and foreign words, in which 225. PROLOGUE. 226. CHAPTER I. 227. CHAPTER II. 228. CHAPTER III. 229. CHAPTER IV. 230. CHAPTER V. 231. CHAPTER VI. 232. CHAPTER VII. 233. CHAPTER VIII. 234. CHAPTER IX. 235. CHAPTER X. 236. CHAPTER XI. 237. 1276. His character stood high to the last, and some of the 238. CHAPTER XII. 239. CHAPTER XIII. 240. CHAPTER XIV. 241. CHAPTER XV. 242. CHAPTER XVI. 243. CHAPTER XVII. 244. CHAPTER XVIII. 245. CHAPTER I. 246. 1198. The kingdom was at its zenith under Hetum or Hayton I., 247. CHAPTER II. 248. CHAPTER III. 249. CHAPTER IV. 250. 1870. He wore the Russian uniform, and bore the title of Prince 251. CHAPTER V. 252. CHAPTER VI. 253. CHAPTER VII. 254. CHAPTER VIII. 255. CHAPTER IX. 256. CHAPTER X. 257. CHAPTER XI. 258. CHAPTER XII. 259. CHAPTER XIII. 260. CHAPTER XIV. 261. CHAPTER XV. 262. CHAPTER XVI. 263. CHAPTER XVII. 264. CHAPTER XVIII. 265. CHAPTER XIX. 266. 1. From Kermán across a plain to the top of a 267. 3. A great plain, called _Reobarles_, in a much warmer 268. 5. A well-watered fruitful plain, which is crossed to 269. 1. From Kermán to the caravanserai of Deh Bakri in the 270. 2. Two miles _over very deep snow_ brought him to the 271. 3. “Clumps of date-palms growing near the village showed 272. 4. 6½ hours, “nearly the whole way over a most difficult 273. 5. Two long marches over a plain, part of which is 274. 1862. More recently Major St. John has shown the magnitude of this 275. CHAPTER XX. 276. CHAPTER XXI. 277. CHAPTER XXII. 278. CHAPTER XXIII. 279. CHAPTER XXIV. 280. 1113. Maudúd, Prince of Mosul, in the chief Mosque of Damascus. 281. CHAPTER XXV. 282. 1262. Neither is right, nor certainly could Polo have meant the 283. 1256. But an army had been sent long in advance under “one of 284. CHAPTER XXVI. 285. CHAPTER XXVII. 286. CHAPTER XXVIII. 287. CHAPTER XXIX. 288. CHAPTER XXX. 289. CHAPTER XXXI. 290. CHAPTER XXXII. 291. CHAPTER XXXIII. 292. CHAPTER XXXIV. 293. CHAPTER XXXV. 294. CHAPTER XXXVI. 295. CHAPTER XXXVII. 296. CHAPTER XXXVIII. 297. CHAPTER XXXIX. 298. CHAPTER XL. 299. CHAPTER XLI. 300. CHAPTER XLII. 301. 1. Klaproth states that the Mongols applied to Tibet the name of 302. 2. Professor Vámbéry thinks that it is probably _Chingin Tala_, 303. CHAPTER XLIII. 304. CHAPTER XLIV. 305. CHAPTER XLV. 306. CHAPTER XLVI. 307. CHAPTER XLVII. 308. CHAPTER XLVIII. 309. CHAPTER XLIX. 310. CHAPTER L. 311. CHAPTER LI. 312. 1464. [_Hwang ming ts’ung sin lu_.] In the time of the present 313. CHAPTER LII. 314. CHAPTER LIII. 315. CHAPTER LIV. 316. CHAPTER LV. 317. CHAPTER LVI. 318. 1860. From the last our cut is taken. 319. CHAPTER LVII. 320. CHAPTER LVIII. 321. CHAPTER LIX. 322. CHAPTER LX. 323. 1. Radde mentions as a rare crane in South Siberia _Grus monachus_, 324. 2. _Grus leucogeranus_ (?) whose chief habitat is Siberia, but 325. 4. The colour of the pendants varies in the texts. Pauthier’s and 326. 5. Certainly the Indian _Sáras_ (vulgo Cyrus), or _Grus antigone_, 327. CHAPTER LXI. 328. CHAPTER I. 329. CHAPTER II. 330. 1287. What followed will be found in a subsequent note (ch. iv. 331. CHAPTER III. 332. CHAPTER IV. 333. CHAPTER V. 334. CHAPTER VI. 335. CHAPTER VII. 336. CHAPTER VIII. 337. CHAPTER IX. 338. CHAPTER X. 339. CHAPTER XI. 340. CHAPTER XII. 341. CHAPTER XIII. 342. CHAPTER XIV. 343. CHAPTER XV. 344. CHAPTER XVI. 345. CHAPTER XVII. 346. CHAPTER XVIII. 347. CHAPTER XIX. 348. CHAPTER XX. 349. CHAPTER XXI. 350. CHAPTER XXII. 351. CHAPTER XXIII. 352. CHAPTER XXIV. 353. CHAPTER XXV. 354. CHAPTER XXVI. 355. 200. And if there chance to be some river or lake to be passed by the 356. CHAPTER XXVII. 357. CHAPTER XXVIII. 358. CHAPTER XXIX. 359. CHAPTER XXX. 360. CHAPTER XXXI. 361. CHAPTER XXXII. 362. CHAPTER XXXIII. 363. CHAPTER XXXIV. 364. Prologue, note 1. 365. introduction of plants from Asia into China, 16n; 366. introduction of block-printing into Europe and Polo, _138–141_;

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