The Travels of Marco Polo — Volume 1 by Marco Polo and da Pisa Rusticiano
CHAPTER XXIX.
3274 words | Chapter 287
OF THE PROVINCE OF BADASHAN.
Badashan is a Province inhabited by people who worship Mahommet, and
have a peculiar language. It forms a very great kingdom, and the
royalty is hereditary. All those of the royal blood are descended
from King Alexander and the daughter of King Darius, who was Lord of
the vast Empire of Persia. And all these kings call themselves in the
Saracen tongue ZULCARNIAIN, which is as much as to say _Alexander_; and
this out of regard for Alexander the Great.{1}
It is in this province that those fine and valuable gems the Balas
Rubies are found. They are got in certain rocks among the mountains,
and in the search for them the people dig great caves underground, just
as is done by miners for silver. There is but one special mountain that
produces them, and it is called SYGHINAN. The stones are dug on the
king’s account, and no one else dares dig in that mountain on pain of
forfeiture of life as well as goods; nor may any one carry the stones
out of the kingdom. But the king amasses them all, and sends them to
other kings when he has tribute to render, or when he desires to offer
a friendly present; and such only as he pleases he causes to be sold.
Thus he acts in order to keep the Balas at a high value; for if he were
to allow everybody to dig, they would extract so many that the world
would be glutted with them, and they would cease to bear any value.
Hence it is that he allows so few to be taken out, and is so strict in
the matter.{2}
There is also in the same country another mountain, in which azure
is found; ’tis the finest in the world, and is got in a vein like
silver. There are also other mountains which contain a great amount
of silver ore, so that the country is a very rich one; but it is also
(it must be said) a very cold one.{3} It produces numbers of excellent
horses, remarkable for their speed. They are not shod at all, although
constantly used in mountainous country, and on very bad roads. [They go
at a great pace even down steep descents, where other horses neither
would nor could do the like. And Messer Marco was told that not long
ago they possessed in that province a breed of horses from the strain
of Alexander’s horse Bucephalus, all of which had from their birth a
particular mark on the forehead. This breed was entirely in the hands
of an uncle of the king’s; and in consequence of his refusing to let
the king have any of them, the latter put him to death. The widow then,
in despite, destroyed the whole breed, and it is now extinct.{4}]
The mountains of this country also supply Saker falcons of excellent
flight, and plenty of Lanners likewise. Beasts and birds for the chase
there are in great abundance. Good wheat is grown, and also barley
without husk. They have no olive oil, but make oil from sesamé, and
also from walnuts.{5}
[In the mountains there are vast numbers of sheep—400, 500, or 600 in a
single flock, and all of them wild; and though many of them are taken,
they never seem to get aught the scarcer.{6}
Those mountains are so lofty that ’tis a hard day’s work, from morning
till evening, to get to the top of them. On getting up, you find an
extensive plain, with great abundance of grass and trees, and copious
springs of pure water running down through rocks and ravines. In those
brooks are found trout and many other fish of dainty kinds; and the
air in those regions is so pure, and residence there so healthful,
that when the men who dwell below in the towns, and in the valleys
and plains, find themselves attacked by any kind of fever or other
ailment that may hap, they lose no time in going to the hills; and
after abiding there two or three days, they quite recover their health
through the excellence of that air. And Messer Marco said he had proved
this by experience: for when in those parts he had been ill for about a
year, but as soon as he was advised to visit that mountain, he did so
and got well at once.{7}]
[Illustration: Ancient Silver Patera of debased Greek art, formerly in
the possession of the Princes of Badakhshan, now in the India Museum.]
In this kingdom there are many strait and perilous passes, so difficult
to force that the people have no fear of invasion. Their towns and
villages also are on lofty hills, and in very strong positions.{8}
They are excellent archers, and much given to the chase; indeed, most
of them are dependent for clothing on the skins of beasts, for stuffs
are very dear among them. The great ladies, however, are arrayed in
stuffs, and I will tell you the style of their dress! They all wear
drawers made of cotton cloth, and into the making of these some will
put 60, 80, or even 100 ells of stuff. This they do to make themselves
look large in the hips, for the men of those parts think that to be a
great beauty in a woman.{9}
NOTE 1.—“The population of Badakhshan Proper is composed of Tajiks,
Turks, and Arabs, who are all Sunnis, following the orthodox
doctrines of the Mahomedan law, and speak Persian and Turki, whilst
the people of the more mountainous tracts are Tajiks of the Shiá
creed, having separate provincial dialects or languages of their
own, the inhabitants of the principal places combining therewith
a knowledge of Persian. Thus, the _Shighnáni_ [sometimes called
_Shighni_] is spoken in Shignán and Roshán, the _Ishkáshami_ in
Ishkásham, the _Wakhi_ in Wakhán, the _Sanglichì_ in Sanglich and
Zebák, and the _Minjáni_ in Minján. All these dialects materially
differ from each other.” (_Pand. Manphul._) It may be considered
almost certain that Badakhshan Proper also had a peculiar dialect
in Polo’s time. Mr. Shaw speaks of the strong resemblance to
_Kashmírís_ of the Badakhshán people whom he had seen.
The Legend of the Alexandrian pedigree of the Kings of Badakhshan
is spoken of by Baber, and by earlier Eastern authors. This
pedigree is, or was, claimed also by the chiefs of Karátegín,
Darwáz, Roshán, Shighnán, Wakhán, Chitrál, Gilgít, Swát, and
Khapolor in Bálti. Some samples of those genealogies may be seen in
that strange document called “Gardiner’s Travels.”
In Badakhshan Proper the story seems now to have died out. Indeed,
though Wood mentions one of the modern family of Mírs as vaunting
this descent, these are in fact _Sáhibzádahs_ of Samarkand, who
were invited to the country about the middle of the 17th century,
and were in no way connected with the old kings.
The traditional claims to Alexandrian descent were probably due to
a genuine memory of the Græco-Bactrian kingdom, and might have had
an origin analogous to the Sultan’s claim to be “Caesar of Rome”;
for the real ancestry of the oldest dynasties on the Oxus was to
be sought rather among the Tochari and Ephthalites than among the
Greeks whom they superseded.
The cut on p. 159 presents an interesting memorial of the real
relation of Bactria to Greece, as well as of the pretence of the
Badakhshan princes to Grecian descent. This silver patera was sold
by the family of the Mírs, when captives, to the Minister of the
Uzbek chief of Kunduz, and by him to Dr. Percival Lord in 1838. It
is now in the India Museum. On the bottom is punched a word or two
in Pehlvi, and there is also a word incised in Syriac or Uighúr.
It is curious that a _pair_ of paterae were acquired by Dr. Lord
under the circumstances stated. The other, similar in material and
form, but apparently somewhat larger, is distinctly Sassanian,
representing a king spearing a lion.
_Zu-’lḳarnain_, “the Two-Horned,” is an Arabic epithet of
Alexander, with which legends have been connected, but which
probably arose from the horned portraits on his coins. [Capus,
_l.c._ p. 121, says, “Iskandr Zoulcarneïn or Alexander _le Cornu_,
horns being the emblem of strength.”—H. C.] The term appears in
Chaucer (_Troil. and Cress._ III. 931) in the sense of _non plus_:—
“I am, till God me better minde send,
At _dulcarnon_, right at my wittes end.”
And it is said to have still colloquial existence in that sense in
some corners of England. This use is said to have arisen from the
Arabic application of the term (_Bicorne_) to the 47th Proposition
of Euclid. (_Baber_, 13; _N. et E._ XIV. 490; _N. An. des V._ xxvi.
296; _Burnes_, III. 186 _seqq._; _Wood_, 155, 244; _J. A. S. B._
XXII. 300; _Ayeen Akbery_, II. 185; see _N. and Q._ 1st Series,
vol. v.)
NOTE 2.—I have adopted in the text for the name of the country that
one of the several forms in the G. Text which comes nearest to the
correct name, viz. _Badascian_. But _Balacian_ also appears both in
that and in Pauthier’s text. This represents _Balakhshán_, a form
also sometimes used in the East. Hayton has _Balaxcen_, Clavijo
_Balaxia_, the Catalan Map _Baldassia_. From the form _Balakhsh_
the Balas Ruby got its name. As Ibn Batuta says: “The Mountains of
Badakhshan have given their name to the Badakhshi Ruby, vulgarly
called _Al Balaksh_.” Albertus Magnus says the _Balagius_ is the
female of the Carbuncle or Ruby Proper, “and some say it is his
house, and hath thereby got the name, quasi _Palatium_ Carbunculi!”
The Balais or Balas Ruby is, like the Spinel, a kind inferior to
the real Ruby of Ava. The author of the _Masálak al Absár_ says the
finest Balas ever seen in the Arab countries was one presented to
Malek ’Adil Ketboga, at Damascus; it was of a triangular form and
weighed 50 drachms. The prices of _Balasci_ in Europe in that age
may be found in Pegolotti, but the needful problems are hard to
solve.
“No sapphire in Inde, no Rubie rich of price,
There lacked than, nor Emeraud so grene,
_Balès_, Turkès, ne thing to my device.”
(_Chaucer, ‘Court of Love.’_)
“L’altra letizia, che m’era già nota,
Preclara cosa mi si fece in vista,
Qual fin _balascio_ in che lo Sol percuoto.”
(_Paradiso_, ix. 67.)
Some account of the Balakhsh from Oriental sources will be found in
_J. As._ sér V. tom. xi. 109.
(_I. B._ III. 59, 394; _Alb. Mag. de Mineralibus; Pegol._ p. 307;
_N. et E._ XIII. i. 246.)
[“The Mohammedan authors of the Mongol period mention Badakhshan
several times in connection with the political and military events
of that period. Guchluk, the ‘gurkhan of Karakhitai,’ was slain
in Badakhshan in 1218 (_d’Ohsson_, I. 272). In 1221, the Mongols
invaded the country (_l.c._ I. 272). On the same page, d’Ohsson
translates a short account of Badakhshan by Yakut (✛1229), stating
that this mountainous country is famed for its precious stones, and
especially rubies, called _Balakhsh_.” (Bretschneider, _Med. Res._
II. p. 66.)—H. C.]
The account of the royal monopoly in working the mines, etc., has
continued accurate down to our own day. When Murad Beg of Kunduz
conquered Badakhshan some forty years ago, in disgust at the small
produce of the mines, he abandoned working them, and sold nearly
all the population of the place into slavery! They continue still
unworked, unless clandestinely. In 1866 the reigning Mír had one
of them opened at the request of Pandit Manphul, but without much
result.
The locality of the mines is on the right bank of the Oxus, in the
district of Ish Káshm and on the borders of SHIGNAN, the _Syghinan_
of the text. (_P. Manph.; Wood_, 206; _N. Ann. des. V._ xxvi. 300.)
[The ruby mines are really in the Gháran country, which extends
along both banks of the Oxus. Barshar is one of the deserted
villages; the boundary between Gháran and Shignán is the Kuguz
Parin (in Shighai dialect means “holes in the rock”); the Persian
equivalent is “Rafak-i-Somakh.” (Cf. Captain Trotter, _Forsyth’s
Mission_, p. 277.)—H. C.]
NOTE 3.—The mines of _Lájwurd_ (whence _l’Azur_ and _Lazuli_)
have been, like the Ruby mines, celebrated for ages. They lie in
the Upper Valley of the Kokcha, called Korán, within the Tract
called _Yamgán_, of which the popular etymology is _Hamah-Kán_, or
“All-Mines,” and were visited by Wood in 1838. The produce now is
said to be of very inferior quality, and in quantity from 30 to 60
_poods_ (36 lbs each) annually. The best quality sells at Bokhara
at 30 to 60 tillas, or 12_l._ to 24_l._ the pood (_Manphul_).
Surely it is ominous when a British agent writing of Badakhshan
products finds it natural to express weights in Russian poods!
The Yamgán Tract also contains mines of iron, lead, alum,
salammoniac, sulphur, ochre, and copper. The last are not worked.
But I do not learn of any silver mines nearer than those of Paryán
in the Valley of Panjshir, south of the crest of the Hindu-Kúsh,
much worked in the early Middle Ages. (See _Cathay_, p. 595.)
NOTE 4.—The Kataghan breed of horses from Badakhshan and Kunduz
has still a high reputation. They do not often reach India, as the
breed is a favourite one among the Afghan chiefs, and the horses
are likely to be appropriated in transit. (_Lumsden, Mission to
Kandahar_, p. 20.)
[The Kirghiz between the Yangi Hissar River and Sirikol are the
only people using the horse generally in the plough, oxen being
employed in the plains, and yaks in Sirikol. (Lieutenant-Colonel
Gordon, p. 222, _Forsyth’s Mission_.)—H. C.]
What Polo heard of the Bucephalid strain was perhaps but another
form of a story told by the Chinese, many centuries earlier, when
speaking of this same region. A certain cave was frequented by a
wonderful stallion of supernatural origin. Hither the people yearly
brought their mares, and a famous breed was derived from the foals.
(_Rém. N. Mél. As._ I. 245.)
NOTE 5.—The huskless barley of the text is thus mentioned by
Burnes in the vicinity of the Hindu-Kúsh: “They rear a barley in
this elevated country which has no husk, and grows like wheat; but
it is barley.” It is not properly _huskless_, but when ripe it
bursts the husk and remains so loosely attached as to be dislodged
from it by a slight shake. It is grown abundantly in Ladak and
the adjoining Hill States. Moorcroft details six varieties of
it cultivated there. The kind mentioned by Marco and Burnes is
probably that named by Royle _Hordeum Ægiceras_, and which has
been sent to England under the name of Tartarian Wheat, though it
is a genuine barley. _Naked barley_ is mentioned by Galen as grown
in Cappadocia; and Matthioli speaks of it as grown in France in his
day (middle of 16th century). It is also known to the Arabs, for
they have a name for it—_Sult_. (_Burnes_, III. 205; _Moorc._ II.
148 _seqq._; _Galen, de Aliment. Facult._ Lat. ed. 13; _Matthioli_,
Ven. 1585, p. 420; _Eng. Cyc._, art. Hordeum.)
Sesamé is mentioned by P. Manphul as one of the products of
Badakhshan; linseed is another, which is also used for oil.
Walnut-trees abound, but neither he nor Wood mention the oil.
We know that walnut oil is largely manufactured in Kashmir.
(_Moorcroft_, II. 148.)
[See on Saker and Lanner Falcons (_F. Sakar_, Briss.; _F.
lanarius_, Schlegel) the valuable paper by Edouard Blanc, _Sur
l’utilisation des Oiseaux de proie en Asie centrale_ in _Rev. des
Sciences natur. appliquées_, 20th June, 1895.
“Hawking is the favourite sport of Central Asian Lords,” says
G. Capus. (_A travers le royaume de Tamerlan_, p. 132. See pp.
132–134.)
The Mirza says (_l.c._ p. 157) that the mountains of Wakhán “are
only noted for producing a breed of hawks or falcons which the
hardy Wâkhânis manage to catch among the cliffs. These hawks are
much esteemed by the chiefs of Badakhshan, Bokhara, etc. They
are celebrated for their swiftness, and known by their white
colour.”—H. C.]
NOTE 6.—These wild sheep are probably the kind called _Kachkár_,
mentioned by Baber, and described by Mr. Blyth in his Monograph
of Wild Sheep, under the name of _Ovis Vignei_. It is extensively
diffused over all the ramifications of Hindu-Kúsh, and westward
perhaps to the Persian Elburz. “It is gregarious,” says Wood,
“congregating in herds of _several hundreds_.” In a later chapter
Polo speaks of a wild sheep apparently different and greater. (See
_J. A. S. B._, X. 858 _seqq._)
NOTE 7.—This pleasant passage is only in Ramusio, but it would be
heresy to doubt its genuine character. Marco’s recollection of the
delight of convalescence in such a climate seems to lend an unusual
enthusiasm and felicity to his description of the scenery. Such a
region as he speaks of is probably the cool Plateau of Shewá, of
which we are told as extending about 25 miles eastward from near
Faizabad, and forming one of the finest pastures in Badakhshan. It
contains a large lake called by the frequent name Sar-i-Kol. No
European traveller in modern times (unless Mr. Gardner) has been on
those glorious table-lands. Burnes says that at Kunduz both natives
and foreigners spoke rapturously of the vales of Badakhshan, its
rivulets, romantic scenes and glens, its fruits, flowers, and
nightingales. Wood is reticent on scenery, naturally, since nearly
all his journey was made in winter. When approaching Faizabad on
his return from the Upper Oxus, however, he says: “On entering the
beautiful lawn at the gorge of its valley I was enchanted at the
quiet loveliness of the scene. Up to this time, from the day we
left Talikan, we had been moving in snow; but now it had nearly
vanished from the valley, and the fine sward was enamelled with
crocuses, daffodils, and snowdrops.” (_P. Manphul; Burnes_, III.
176; _Wood_, 252.)
NOTE 8.—Yet scarcely any country in the world has suffered so
terribly and repeatedly from invasion. “Enduring decay probably
commenced with the wars of Chinghiz, for many an instance in
Eastern history shows the permanent effect of such devastations....
Century after century saw only progress in decay. Even to our own
time the progress of depopulation and deterioration has continued.”
In 1759, two of the Khojas of Kashgar, escaping from the dominant
Chinese, took refuge in Badakhshan; one died of his wounds, the
other was treacherously slain by Sultan Shah, who then ruled the
country. The holy man is said in his dying moments to have invoked
curses on Badakhshan, and prayed that it might be three times
depopulated; a malediction which found ample accomplishment. The
misery of the country came to a climax about 1830, when the Uzbek
chief of Kunduz, Murad Beg Kataghan, swept away the bulk of the
inhabitants, and set them down to die in the marshy plains of
Kunduz. (_Cathay_, p. 542; _Faiz Bakhsh_, etc.)
NOTE 9.—This “bombasticall dissimulation of their garments,” as
the author of _Anthropometamorphosis_ calls such a fashion, is
no longer affected by the ladies of Badakhshan. But a friend in
the Panjab observes that it still survives _there_. “There are
ladies’ trousers here which might almost justify Marco’s very
liberal estimate of the quantity of stuff required to make them;”
and among the Afghan ladies, Dr. Bellew says, the silken trousers
almost surpass crinoline in amplitude. It is curious to find the
same characteristic attaching to female figures on coins of ancient
kings of these regions, such as Agathocles and Pantaleon. (The last
name is appropriate!)
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