All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1783. Among the most notable members were Johnson, the arbiter of
2279 words | Chapter 57
English prose; Oliver Goldsmith; Boswell, the biographer; Burke, the
orator; Garrick, the actor; and Sir Joshua Reynolds, the painter. Among
the later members were Gibbon, the historian; and Adam Smith, the
political economist.
Certain it is that during the sway of the English coffee house, and at
least partly through its influence, England produced a better prose
literature, as embodied alike in her essays, literary criticisms, and
novels, than she ever had produced before.
The advent of the pleasure garden brought coffee out into the open in
England; and one of the reasons why gardens, such as Ranelagh and
Vauxhall, began to be more frequented than the coffee houses was that
they were popular resorts for women as well as for men. All kinds of
beverages were served in them; and soon the women began to favor tea as
an afternoon drink. At least, the great development in the use of tea
dates from this period; and many of these resorts called themselves tea
gardens.
The use of coffee by this time, however, was well established in the
homes as a breakfast and dinner beverage, and such consumption more than
made up for any loss sustained through the gradual decadence of the
coffee house. Yet signs of the change in national taste that arrived
with the Georges were not wanting; for the active propaganda of the
British East India Company was fairly well launched during Queen Anne's
reign.
The London pleasure gardens of the eighteenth century were unique. At
one time there was a "mighty maze" of them. Their season extended from
April or May to August or September. At first there was no charge for
admission, but Warwick Wroth[84] tells us that visitors usually
purchased cheese cakes, syllabubs, tea, coffee and ale.
The four best-known London gardens were Vauxhall; Marylebone; Cuper's,
where the charge for admission subsequently was fixed at not less than a
shilling; and Ranelagh, where the charge of half a crown included "the
Elegant Regale" of tea, coffee, and bread and butter.
The pleasure gardens provided walks, rooms for dancing, skittle grounds,
bowling greens, variety entertainments, and promenade concerts; and not
a few places were given over to fashionable gambling and racing.
The Vauxhall Gardens, one of the most favored resorts of
pleasure-seeking Londoners, were located on the Surrey side of the
Thames, a short distance east of Vauxhall Bridge. They were originally
known as the New Spring Gardens (1661), to distinguish them from the old
Spring Gardens at Charing Cross. They became famous in the reign of
Charles II. Vauxhall was celebrated for its walks, lit with thousands of
lamps, its musical and other performances, suppers, and fireworks. High
and low were to be found there, and the drinking of tea and coffee in
the arbors was a feature. The illustration shows the garden brightly
illuminated by lanterns and lamps on some festival occasion. Coffee and
tea were served in the arbors.
[Illustration: VAUXHALL GARDENS ON A GALA NIGHT]
The Ranelagh, "a place of public entertainment," erected at Chelsea in
1742, was a kind of Vauxhall under cover. The principal room, known as
the Rotunda, was circular in shape, 150 feet in diameter, and had an
orchestra in the center and tiers of boxes all around. Promenading and
taking refreshments in the boxes were the principal divertisements.
Except on gala nights of masquerades and fireworks, only tea, coffee,
bread and butter were to be had at Ranelagh.
[Illustration: THE ROTUNDA IN RANELAGH GARDENS WITH THE COMPANY AT
BREAKFAST--1751]
In the group of gardens connected with mineral springs was the Dog and
Duck (St. George's Spa), which became at last a tea garden and a dancing
saloon of doubtful repute.
Still another division, recognized by Wroth, consisted mainly of tea
gardens, among them Highbury Barn, The Canonbury House, Hornsey and
Copenhagen House, Bagnigge Wells, and White Conduit House. The two last
named were the classic tea gardens of the period. Both were provided
with "long rooms" in case of rain, and for indoor promenades with organ
music. Then there were the Adam and Eve tea gardens, with arbors for
tea-drinking parties, which subsequently became the Adam and Eve Tavern
and Coffee House. Well known were the Bayswater Tea Gardens and the Jews
Harp House and Tea Gardens. All these were provided with neat, "genteel"
boxes, let into the hedges and alcoves, for tea and coffee drinkers.
_Locating the Notable Coffee Houses_
GARRAWAY'S, 3 'Change Alley, Cornhill, was a place for great mercantile
transactions. Thomas Garway, the original proprietor, was a tobacconist
and coffee man, who claimed to be the first that sold tea in England,
although not at this address. The later Garraway's was long famous as a
sandwich and drinking room for sherry, pale ale, and punch, in addition
to tea and coffee. It is said that the sandwich-maker was occupied two
hours in cutting and arranging the sandwiches for the day's consumption.
After the "great fire" of 1666 GARRAWAY'S moved into the same place in
Exchange Alley where Elford had been before the fire. Here he claimed to
have the oldest coffee house in London; but the ground on which BOWMAN'S
had stood was occupied later by the VIRGINIA and the JAMAICA coffee
houses. The latter was damaged by the fire of 1748 which consumed
GARRAWAY'S and ELFORD'S (see map of the 1748 fire).
WILL'S, the predecessor of BUTTON'S, first had the title of the RED COW,
then of the ROSE. It was kept by William Urwin, and was on the north
side of Russell Street at the corner of Bow Street. "It was Dryden who
made Will's coffee house the great resort of the wits of his time."
(_Pope_ and _Spence_.) The room in which the poet was accustomed to sit
was on the first floor; and his place was the place of honor by the
fireside in the winter, and at the corner of the balcony, looking over
the street, in fine weather; he called the two places his winter and his
summer seat. This was called the dining-room floor. The company did not
sit in boxes as subsequently, but at various tables which were dispersed
through the room. Smoking was permitted in the public room; it was then
so much in vogue that it does not seem to have been considered a
nuisance. Here, as in other similar places of meeting, the visitors
divided themselves into parties; and we are told by Ward that the young
beaux and wits, who seldom approached the principal table, thought it a
great honor to have a pinch out of Dryden's snuff-box. After Dryden's
death WILL'S was transferred to a house opposite, and became BUTTON'S,
"over against THOMAS'S in Covent Garden." Thither also Addison
transferred much company from THOMAS'S. Here Swift first saw Addison.
Hither also came "Steele, Arbuthnot and many other wits of the time."
BUTTON'S continued in vogue until Addison's death and Steele's
retirement into Wales, after which the coffee drinkers went to the
BEDFORD, dinner parties to the SHAKESPEARE. BUTTON'S was subsequently
known as the CALEDONIEN.
[Illustration: GARRAWAY'S COFFEE HOUSE IN 'CHANGE ALLEY
Garway (or Garraway) claimed to have been first to sell Tea in England]
[Illustration: BUTTON'S COFFEE HOUSE, GREAT RUSSELL STREET
Afterward it became the Caledonien
From a water color by T.H. Shepherd]
SLAUGHTER'S, famous as the resort of painters and sculptors in the
eighteenth century, was situated at the upper end of the west side of
St. Martin's Lane. Its first landlord was Thomas Slaughter, 1692. A
second SLAUGHTER'S (NEW SLAUGHTER'S) was established in the same street
in 1760, when the original SLAUGHTER'S adopted the name of OLD
SLAUGHTER'S. It was torn down in 1843-44. Among the notables who
frequented it were Hogarth; young Gainsborough; Cipriani; Haydon;
Roubiliac; Hudson, who painted the Dilettanti portraits; M'Ardell, the
mezzotinto-scraper; Luke Sullivan, the engraver; Gardell, the portrait
painter; and Parry, the Welsh harper.
TOM'S, in Birchin Lane, Cornhill, though in the main a mercantile
resort, acquired some celebrity from having been frequented by Garrick.
TOM'S was also frequented by Chatterton, as a place "of the best
resort." Then there was TOM'S in Devereux Court, Strand, and TOM'S at 17
Great Russell Street, Covent Garden, opposite BUTTON'S, a celebrated
resort during the reign of Queen Anne and for more than a century after.
THE GRECIAN, Devereux Court, Strand, was originally kept by one
Constantine, a Greek. From this house Steele proposed to date his
learned articles in the _Tatler_; it is mentioned in No. 1 of the
_Spectator_, and it was much frequented by Goldsmith. The GRECIAN was
Foote's morning lounge. In 1843 the premises became the Grecian
Chambers, with a bust of Lord Devereux, earl of Essex, over the door.
[Illustration: SLAUGHTER'S COFFEE HOUSE, ST. MARTIN'S LANE
It was taken down in 1843
From a water color by T.H. Shepherd, 1841]
[Illustration: TOM'S COFFEE HOUSE, 17 GREAT RUSSELL STREET
Used as a coffee house until 1804 and razed in 1865
From a water color by T.H. Shepherd]
LLOYD'S, Royal Exchange, celebrated for its priority of shipping
intelligence and its marine insurance, originated with Edward Lloyd, who
about 1688 kept a coffee house in Tower Street, later in Lombard Street
corner of Abchurch Lane. It was a modest place of refreshment for
seafarers and merchants. As a matter of convenience, Edward Lloyd
prepared "ships' lists" for the guidance of the frequenters of the
coffee house. "These lists, which were written by hand, contained,"
according to Andrew Scott, "an account of vessels which the underwriters
who met there were likely to have offered them for insurance." Such was
the beginning of two institutions that have since exercised a dominant
influence on the sea-carrying trade of the whole world--the Royal
Exchange Lloyd's, the greatest insurance institution in the world, and
Lloyd's Register of Shipping. Lloyd's now has 1400 agents in all parts
of the world. It receives as many as 100,000 telegrams a year. It
records through its intelligence service the daily movements of 11,000
vessels.
In the beginning one of the apartments in the Exchange was fitted up as
LLOYD'S coffee room. Edward Lloyd died in 1712. Subsequently the coffee
house was in Pope's Head Alley, where it was called NEW LLOYD'S coffee
house, but on September 14, 1784, it was removed to the northwest corner
of the Royal Exchange, where it remained until the partial destruction
of that building by fire.
[Illustration: LLOYD'S COFFEE HOUSE IN THE ROYAL EXCHANGE, SHOWING THE
SUBSCRIPTION ROOM]
In rebuilding the Exchange there were provided the Subscribers' or
Underwriters' room, the Merchants' room, and the Captains' room. _The
City_, second edition, 1848, contains the following description of this
most famous rendezvous of eminent merchants, shipowners, underwriters,
insurance, stock and exchange brokers:
Here is obtained the earliest news of the arrival and sailing of
vessels, losses at sea, captures, recaptures, engagements and other
shipping intelligence; and proprietors of ships and freights are
insured by the underwriters. The rooms are in the Venetian style
with Roman enrichments. At the entrance of the room are exhibited
the Shipping Lists, received from Lloyd's agents at home and
abroad, and affording particulars of departures or arrivals of
vessels, wrecks, salvage, or sale of property saved, etc. To the
right and left are "Lloyd's Books," two enormous ledgers. Right
hand, ships "spoken with" or arrived at their destined ports; left
hand, records of wrecks, fires or severe collisions, written in a
fine Roman hand in "double lines." To assist the underwriters in
their calculations, at the end of the room is an Anemometer, which
registers the state of the wind day and night; attached is a rain
gauge.
THE BRITISH, Cockspur Street, "long a house of call for Scotchmen," was
fortunate in its landladies. In 1759 it was kept by the sister of Bishop
Douglas, so well known for his works against Lauder and Bower, which may
explain its Scottish fame. At another period it was kept by Mrs.
Anderson, described in Mackenzie's _Life of Home_ as "a woman of
uncommon talents and the most agreeable conversation."
DON SALTERO'S, 18 Cheyne Walk, Chelsea, was opened by a barber named
Salter in 1695. Sir Hans Sloane contributed of his own collection some
of the refuse gimcracks that were to be found in Salter's "museum."
Vice-Admiral Munden, who had been long on the coast of Spain, where he
had acquired a fondness for Spanish titles, named the keeper of the
house Don Saltero, and his coffee house and museum DON SALTERO'S.
SQUIRE'S was in Fulwood's Rents, Holburn, running up to Gray's Inn. It
was one of the receiving houses of the _Spectator_. In No. 269 the
_Spectator_ accepts Sir Roger de Coverley's invitation to "smoke a pipe
with him over a dish of coffee at Squire's. As I love the old man, I
take delight in complying with everything that is agreeable to him, and
accordingly waited on him to the coffee-house, where his venerable
figure drew upon us the eyes of the whole room. He had no sooner seated
himself at the upper end of the high table, but he called for a clean
pipe, a paper of tobacco, a dish of coffee, a wax candle and the
'Supplement' (a periodical paper of that time), with such an air of
cheerfulness and good humour, that all the boys in the coffee room (who
seemed to take pleasure in serving him) were at once employed on his
several errands, insomuch that nobody else could come at a dish of tea
until the Knight had got all his conveniences about him." Such was the
coffee room in the _Spectator's_ day.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF DICK'S COFFEE HOUSE
From the frontispiece to "The Coffee House--a dramatick Piece" (see
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