All about coffee by William H. Ukers

1899. The business was incorporated by his children under the same name

2437 words  |  Chapter 148

in 1906. Edwin J. Gillies, son of James W. Gillies, started a separate coffee business at 245 Washington Street, in 1882. In 1883 he admitted as a partner James H. Schmelzel, a fellow Columbia alumnus. The enterprise was successful for many years, being incorporated under the title of Edwin J. Gillies & Co., Inc. It was consolidated in 1915 with the business of Ross W. Weir & Co., 60 Front Street, Edwin J. Gillies becoming a vice-president (with L. S. Cooper also vice-president) of the corporation of Ross W. Weir, Inc. Burns & Brown started in the coffee roasting business in 1853 in an old building at the corner of Washington and Chambers Streets for which they paid an annual rental of one thousand dollars. This was the beginning of the Metropolitan Mills, opposite to the present location of Loudon & Son, 181 Chambers Street, the latest successors to the business. Burns & Brown continued for two years, when they failed, and Wright Gillies & Bro. succeeded, and put in Ebenezer Welsh as manager. Later, Wright Gillies & Co. sold out the plant to Capt. Edward C. Russell, who associated with him his son-in-law, Edward A. Phelps, Jr. At the dissolution of this partnership in 1870, the firm became Trusdell & Phelps. Mr. Phelps succeeded Trusdell, and sold out to Loudon & Stellwag in 1877. They were succeeded by Loudon & Johnson in 1879, and this firm continued until 1910, when James D. Johnson retired, and the firm of Loudon & Son took charge. These were J. Carlyle Loudon and his son, Howard C. Loudon, who died in 1911. The firm name of Loudon & Son continues. One of the most vigorous personalities of the sixties, and one whose influence extended well into this generation, was Thomas Reid. Born in Bridgeport, England, he came to the United States as a boy, and started his business career as a grocer's clerk in Brooklyn. Within three months after landing, he bought out his employer. He entered the wholesale coffee-roasting business at 105 Murray Street, New York, in 1855, in partnership with a Mr. Townsend under the style of the Globe Mills, which were the predecessors of the Eppens Smith Co. now in Warren Street. Jabez Burns, inventor of the Burns coffee roaster, before this a teamster for Henry Blair, was at one time bookkeeper for the Globe Mills. In 1864, Mr. Burns sold to the Globe Mills the first roasters of his manufacture--two one-bag, four-foot machines that were given a place alongside of four of the old-style Carter pull-outs. Mr. Townsend died the first year of the Globe Mills' existence; and Thomas Reid continued without a partner until 1863, when he became associated with John F. Pupke, as Pupke & Reid. The business was then at 269 Washington Street. Thomas Reid was resourceful and enterprising; also he had vision. He saw the day of package coffee coming, and nearly "beat" John Arbuckle to it. As early as 1861 we find him advertising in the _City Directory_, "spices put up in every variety of package." Lewis A. Osborn, 69 Warren Street, New York, and 81-83 South Water Street, Chicago, was advertising "Osborn's Celebrated Prepared Java Coffee--put up only by Lewis A. Osborn" in 1863-64. Thomas Reid appears to have acquired this brand and to have begun its exploitation as "Osborn's Old Government Java," a ground package coffee, and certainly one of the earliest package coffees. However, this brand never attained the national vogue achieved by John Arbuckle's package coffee, which first appeared in 1865, although the name Ariosa was not given it until 1873. Between 1855 and 1865 there were only half-a-dozen wholesale coffee roasters on Manhattan Island, and Thomas Reid was their leader. Much of his work was roasting for the trade, and this undoubtedly interfered with the logical development of his package-coffee ideas. The firm became Pupke, Reid & Phelps in 1882. In 1885, it became the original Eppens-Smith Co.; later, the Eppens, Smith & Wiemann Co., and lastly, the Eppens Smith Co. Thomas Reid was vice-president of the Eppens, Smith & Wiemann Co., and continued in that position until his death in 1902. Julius Eppens is the present head of the business. Other package coffees of the sixties were Government coffee put out by Taber & Place's Rubia Mills, 353-355 Washington Street, in "tin foil pound papers," and L. Bruckmann & Co.'s London Club, packed at 107 Warren Street. Another old-time New York coffee-roasting business is that of Samuel S. Beard & Co. This business was founded in 1834 on Front Street by Eli Beard (father of Samuel S. Beard,) and W.A. Cummings as Beard & Cummings. In 1872, the firm moved to Duane Street, where it was joined by Messrs. S.S. Beard and Cottrell, and the new firm became Beards & Cottrell. Mr. Cottrell retired in 1883, and the firm became Samuel S. Beard & Co. Upon the death of S.S. Beard in 1905, James H. Murray, who had been with the concern for many years, became head of the house. Mr. Murray died six months later. The business moved in 1913 to 92 Front Street, where it continues as a stock company, with J.R. Westfal as manager. Austin C. Fitzpatrick, well known among New York coffee roasters, is a graduate of the Thomas Reid school, having entered the business of this pioneer roaster in 1865. He was western salesman for Pupke & Reid until 1871, when he became associated with Rufus G. Story under the firm name of R. G. Story & Co. Later, he formed a partnership with Howard E. Case, buying out the old house of Beard & Howell. When Mr. Case retired in 1887, the firm became A.C. Fitzpatrick & Co. This title continued for twelve years, when the Knickerbocker Mills were taken over, and the business was incorporated as the Knickerbocker Mills Co., with Mr. Fitzpatrick as president. The Knickerbocker Mills, acquired by the corporation, had been founded in 1842 and were for more than forty years at 154-156 Chambers Street. The business is now at 196-198 Chambers Street. [Illustration: JULIUS A. EPPENS, NEW YORK] Many of the pioneers in the coffee roasting business of this country were men who came from the British Isles and Germany. A notable figure from the latter country was Benedickt Fischer, who knew coffee in Germany before coming to New York in his nineteenth year. He started at 323-329 Greenwich Street, near Duane Street, in 1859. His first roaster was a primitive affair built under the E.J. Hyde patent by the Coffee Roaster & Mill Manufacturing Co. of Philadelphia. It was turned by hand by Fischer and his helper. This was about 1862. In 1864, the business required larger quarters, and was removed to the corner of Duane and Greenwich Streets. A new plant was erected at the corner of Beach and Greenwich Streets in 1894, and the present plant was erected at the corner of Franklin and Greenwich Streets in 1906. Upon the death of Benedickt Fischer in 1903, the business passed under the control of William H. Fischer, son of Benedickt, and Benedickt's son-in-law, Charles E. Diefenthaler, for many years associated with the house. At present, the company is a corporation, with C.E. Diefenthaler, president; T.F. Diefenthaler, vice-president and treasurer; and T.O. Budenbach, secretary. Bowie Dash, a commanding figure in the New York green coffee trade, founded the Holland Coffee Co., roasters, in 1885. He placed H. Bartow in charge. Mr. Dash himself was never active in the affairs of the company. J. Bowie Dash, son of Bowie Dash, entered the Holland Coffee Co. as a boy. Bowie Dash died in 1894. Mr. Bartow left The Holland Coffee Co. in 1897 and J. Bowie Dash became president. He sold the company in 1917 to S.B. Morrison, who consolidated it with his Esperanza Coffee Co. The business is still conducted as the Holland Coffee Co., with Mr. Morrison as president, at 162 Front Street. George Fisher was a well known coffee roaster of the sixties. He began in the old Hope Mills, 71 Fulton Street, and, at the age of thirty, entered into partnership with D.C. Ripley, establishing the Hudson Mills. The firm became Sanger, Beers & Fisher in 1868; Mr. Fisher retired in 1882; and died in 1896. Peter Haulenbeek began work as delivery boy in a grocery store. He entered the coffee business in the sixties in the employ of Wright Gillies, and went into the wholesale coffee-roasting trade under his own name at 170 Duane Street in 1876. His son, John W. Haulenbeek, Sr., came into his father's business in 1887. Peter Haulenbeek died January 15, 1894, and the firm name was changed to John W. Haulenbeek & Co. The business remained in the same building up to 1916, when it was moved to its present location at 393 Greenwich Street. John W. Haulenbeek, Jr., of the third generation, is now active in the business. A leading figure in the sixties was James Brown, who started as an engineer, rose to a partnership, and retired after the Civil War, a wealthy man. He was a partner with Thomas Reid in the old Globe Mills. He was also associated with B. Fischer in the firm of Fischer, Kirby & Brown, and established the firm of Brown & Scott in Duane Street, where Peter Haulenbeek succeeded to the business. Afterward, he continued in the firms of Brown & Jones and Bisland & Brown, and died in 1898. Van Loan, Maguire & Gaffney was a formidable combination in the coffee-roasting business in its day. Thomas Van Loan was for thirty years a partner in the firm of W.J. Stitt & Co. (William J. Stitt was in business at 173 Washington Street in the fifties). Joseph Maguire was a practical spice grinder. Hugh Gaffney was with Brown & Scott until the firm retired in 1879, and for ten years thereafter he traveled for B. Fischer & Co. Then he became a member of the firm of Benedict & Gaffney. Ill health caused his temporary retirement; but he returned to the business in 1897 when he organized the firm of Van Loan, Maguire & Gaffney. Joseph Maguire died in 1904. [Illustration: THOMAS VAN LOAN, NEW YORK] Mr. Gaffney died on March 20, 1912, and the name of the business was changed to Van Loan & Co., with Thomas Van Loan as the head of the business, under which name and management it still continues at 64 North Moore Street. O'Donohue is a well known name in the development of both the green and roasted coffee trade of New York City. John O'Donohue was a leader in the green coffee business in 1830. It was John O'Donohue's Sons in 1873. John B. O'Donohue, son of Peter O'Donohue and grandson of the original John, after leaving John O'Donohue's Sons, formed a partnership with Robert C. Stewart (the present head of R.C. Stewart & Co.) to engage in the green coffee jobbing business as O'Donohue & Stewart. This partnership was dissolved in 1893. For a few years, John O'Donohue was associated with the coffee-roasting firm of Wing Bros. & Hart. About 1898, he formed the O'Donohue Coffee Co. at 284 Front Street. In 1910, this was consolidated with the Potter Coffee Co. and Bennett, Sloan & Co. to form the Potter, Sloan, O'Donohue Co. The firm dissolved in 1915. Ellis M. Potter came to New York from the Potter-Parlin Spice Mills in Cincinnati. Mr. O'Donohue died in 1918. In the seventies Frederick Akers was proprietor of the oldest and best known trade roasting establishment in New York. The plant was known as the Atlas Mills, and was at 17 Jay Street. Mr. Akers died in 1901. The same year, William J. Morrison and Walter B. Boinest, former employees of Akers, formed a partnership to carry on the same kind of business at 413 Greenwich Street. It is still at that address under the name of Morrison & Boinest Co. Col. William P. Roome, a Chesterfieldian figure among New York coffee roasters, came into the trade in 1876, when he established the firm of William P. Roome & Co., with T.L. Vickers as partner. In the Civil War that had preceded, young Roome (he was then nineteen) had distinguished himself as a conspicuous hero of the Sixth Army Corps, having entered the service as a second lieutenant in the Sixty-fifth New York Volunteers. William P. Roome & Co. first engaged in the importation of tea, but they added coffee to the business in 1889. Col. Roome disposed of it in 1903 to assume charge of the tea and coffee department of the Acker, Merrall & Condit Company, a position which he still holds. Frederick A. Cauchois, another picturesque figure among New York coffee roasters, entered the trade as a clerk in the New York office of Chase & Sanborn in 1875. After further tutelage under Frank Williams in the coffee brokerage business, he bought the old Fulton Mills (Colgate Gilbert & Co., 1848), in Fulton Street, where he did some of the most original advertising for coffee that the trade has seen. His Private Estate coffee in little burlap bags, his donkey train that carried the bags of green coffee through the streets of the metropolis, his system of delivering fresh coffee daily to the grocery trade, and his Japanese paper filter device to insure the proper making of the coffee, made him famous. He brought something of the spirit of the old English coffee house to America, and incorporated it in Keen's Chop House in New York. He died in 1918. The business of Russell & Co. was founded by Robert S. Russell & Frank Smith at 107 Water Street in 1875. In 1895, S.L. Davis, one of the present owners, formerly with Merrit & Ronaldson, became a partner. In 1900, Frank C. Russell, son of the senior member, was admitted to a partnership; and upon the death of his father in 1904, he and Mr. Davis became owners of the business. Ross W. Weir, who, in addition to being a successful New York coffee roaster, has also attained prominence as president of the National Coffee Roasters Association and chairman of the Joint Coffee Trade Publicity Committee, handling the million dollar coffee advertising campaign, was born in New York in 1859, the son of J.B. Weir, one of the pioneer forty-niners, who at one time was engaged in the export commission business in San Francisco. Mr. Weir began his business career as a general utility boy in the jobbing grocery house of S.H. Williamson, 36 Broadway, New York, in

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. CHAPTER I 3. CHAPTER II 4. CHAPTER III 5. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO WESTERN EUROPE 6. CHAPTER V 7. CHAPTER VI 8. CHAPTER VII 9. CHAPTER VIII 10. CHAPTER IX 11. CHAPTER X 12. CHAPTER XI 13. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO NORTH AMERICA 14. CHAPTER XIII 15. CHAPTER XIV 16. CHAPTER XV 17. CHAPTER XVI 18. CHAPTER XVII 19. CHAPTER XVIII 20. CHAPTER XIX 21. CHAPTER XX 22. CHAPTER XXI 23. CHAPTER XXII 24. CHAPTER XXIII 25. CHAPTER XXIV 26. CHAPTER XXV 27. CHAPTER XXVI 28. CHAPTER XXVII 29. CHAPTER XXVIII 30. CHAPTER XXIX 31. CHAPTER XXX 32. CHAPTER XXXI 33. CHAPTER XXXII 34. CHAPTER XXXIII 35. CHAPTER XXXIV 36. CHAPTER XXXV 37. CHAPTER XXXVI 38. CHAPTER I 39. 3. The foreign forms are unstressed and have no _h_. The original _v_ or 40. CHAPTER II 41. introduction of coffee into Martinique, with particular reference to 42. 1840. In 1852 coffee cultivation was begun in Salvador with plants 43. CHAPTER III 44. 1517. The drink continued its progress through Syria, and was received 45. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO WESTERN EUROPE 46. 1576. He was the first European to mention coffee; and to him also 47. 1671. It was written in Latin by Antoine Faustus Nairon (1635-1707), 48. CHAPTER V 49. introduction to France. 50. CHAPTER VI 51. CHAPTER VII 52. CHAPTER VIII 53. CHAPTER IX 54. CHAPTER X 55. 1665. It was a ten-page pamphlet, and proved to be excellent propaganda 56. 1675. It forbade the coffee houses to operate after January 10, 1676. 57. 1783. Among the most notable members were Johnson, the arbiter of 58. chapter XXXII)] 59. CHAPTER XI 60. 1657. One account says that a decoction, supposed to have been coffee, 61. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO NORTH AMERICA 62. 1691. Twenty-seven years later, his widow, Mary Gutteridge, petitioned 63. CHAPTER XIII 64. CHAPTER XIV 65. 1700. Watson, in one place in his _Annals_ of the city, says 1700, but 66. 1766. Here, too, for several years the fishermen set up May poles. 67. CHAPTER XV 68. CHAPTER XVI 69. chapter XV, destroyed Ceylon's once prosperous coffee industry. As it 70. 1. under surface of affected leaf, x 1/2; 2, section through same 71. CHAPTER XVII 72. 1750. Fresh chicory[183] contains about 77 percent water, 7.5 gummy 73. 1. _Macroscopic Examination--Tentative_ 74. 2. _Coloring Matters--Tentative_ 75. 3. _Macroscopic Examination--Tentative_ 76. 4. _Preparation of Sample--Official_ 77. 5. _Moisture--Tentative_ 78. 6. _Soluble Solids--Tentative_ 79. 7. _Ash--Official_ 80. 8. _Ash Insoluble in Acid--Official_ 81. 9. _Soluble and Insoluble Ash--Official_ 82. 10. _Alkalinity of the Soluble Ash--Official_ 83. 11. _Soluble Phosphoric Acid in the Ash--Official_ 84. 12. _Insoluble Phosphoric Acid in the Ash--Official_ 85. 13. _Chlorides--Official_ 86. 14. _Caffein--The Fendler and Stüber Method--Tentative_ 87. 15. _Caffein--Power-Chestnut Method--Official_ 88. 16. _Crude Fiber--Official_ 89. 17. _Starch--Tentative_ 90. 18. _Sugars--Tentative_ 91. 19. _Petroleum Ether Extract--Official_ 92. 20. _Total Acidity--Tentative_ 93. 21. _Volatile Acidity--Tentative_ 94. 22. _Protein_ 95. 23. _Ten Percent Extract--McGill Method_ 96. 24. _Caffetannic Acid--Krug's Method_[187] 97. CHAPTER XVIII 98. 114. Her principal food was coffee, of which she took daily as many 99. 3. Typewriting 100. 5. Opposites St. St. St. None 2.5-3 Next 101. 6. Calculation St. St. St. None 2.5 Next 102. 8. Cancellation Ret. ? St. None 3-5 No 103. 9. S-W illusion 0 0 0 104. 13. General health and conditions of 105. CHAPTER XIX 106. CHAPTER XX 107. 1875. The lowest annual production was 20,280,589 pounds in 1818. The 108. 1919. Only 2,200 pounds were produced in 1917. However, the climate and 109. CHAPTER XXI 110. CHAPTER XXII 111. 1723. Seven years later, 472,000 pounds were shipped; and in 1732-33 112. 5. Belgium 11.06 10. France 7.74 113. 1919. The imports in 1913 were more than 40,000,000 pounds, in 1914 more 114. CHAPTER XXIII 115. 1. From Cucuta, it travels thirty-five miles by railroad to Puerto 116. 2. At Puerto Villamizar it is loaded into small, flat-bottomed, steel 117. 3. At Encontrados the cargo is loaded on river steamboats more or less 118. 4. At Maracaibo it is taken by ocean vessel, which either carries it 119. 1919. Seats are now (1922) worth about $6,000. 120. CHAPTER XXIV 121. 1890. Ceylon coffees are classified commercially as "native", 122. CHAPTER XXV 123. CHAPTER XXVI 124. CHAPTER XXVII 125. 1. Charge interest on the net amount of the total investment at the 126. 2. Charge rental on real estate or buildings at a rate equal to 127. 3. Charge, in addition to what is paid for hired help, an amount 128. 4. Charge depreciation on all goods carried over on which a less 129. 5. Charge depreciation on buildings, tools, fixtures, or anything 130. 7. Charge all fixed expenses, such as taxes, insurance, water, 131. 8. Charge all incidental expenses, such as drayage, postage, office 132. 9. Charge losses of every character, including goods stolen, or 133. 12. When it is ascertained what the sum of all the foregoing items 134. 13. Take this percent and deduct it from the price of any article 135. 14. Go over the selling prices of the various articles and see what 136. CHAPTER XXVIII 137. introduction of Ariosa by John Arbuckle in 1873. Some of the early 138. 1. The intrinsic desirability of coffee--the actual pleasure to be 139. 2. That it is delightful medium for social intercourse--part of the 140. 3. That its proper service is a badge of social distinction--the mark of 141. CHAPTER XXIX 142. chapter XXIII, telling how green coffees are bought and sold. 143. 1911. The complete story of the growth of this most important coffee 144. CHAPTER XXX 145. 1919. In 1920, there was a falling off to 137,000,000 pounds, and it may 146. 1902. John Wilde died in 1914. 147. 1848. Among them were: Beard & Cummings. 281 Front Street; Henry B. 148. 1899. The business was incorporated by his children under the same name 149. 1875. Then he was a clerk for Park & Tilford, office man with Arbuckle 150. 1888. James S. Sanborn died in 1903, and Charles E. Sanborn died two 151. 1851. Calvin Durand entered the firm in 1879, and the name was changed 152. 1911. Durand & Kasper merged, 1921, with Henry Horner & Co. and McNeil & 153. 1882. Mr. Blair retired in 1913, and W.S. Rice was elected president. He 154. 1919. O.S.A. Sprague died in 1909, Ezra J. Warner Sr. in 1910, and 155. 1919. Since that time, his son, Jerome J., has carried on the business, 156. 1919. In this year a new corporation, called the Heekin Company, was 157. 1896. The business was incorporated in 1901 as the J.G. Flint Co., with 158. 1878. Henry A. continued the business until 1881, when Francis Widlar 159. 1921. The firm first roasted coffee in 1891. Prior to that time it had 160. 1916. The business is now (1922) carried on by W.E. and Jay E. Tone. 161. CHAPTER XXXI 162. 1869. A wool concern engaged him as buyer, and for about six years he 163. CHAPTER XXXII

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