All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1899. The business was incorporated by his children under the same name
2437 words | Chapter 148
in 1906.
Edwin J. Gillies, son of James W. Gillies, started a separate coffee
business at 245 Washington Street, in 1882. In 1883 he admitted as a
partner James H. Schmelzel, a fellow Columbia alumnus. The enterprise
was successful for many years, being incorporated under the title of
Edwin J. Gillies & Co., Inc. It was consolidated in 1915 with the
business of Ross W. Weir & Co., 60 Front Street, Edwin J. Gillies
becoming a vice-president (with L. S. Cooper also vice-president) of the
corporation of Ross W. Weir, Inc.
Burns & Brown started in the coffee roasting business in 1853 in an old
building at the corner of Washington and Chambers Streets for which they
paid an annual rental of one thousand dollars. This was the beginning of
the Metropolitan Mills, opposite to the present location of Loudon &
Son, 181 Chambers Street, the latest successors to the business. Burns &
Brown continued for two years, when they failed, and Wright Gillies &
Bro. succeeded, and put in Ebenezer Welsh as manager. Later, Wright
Gillies & Co. sold out the plant to Capt. Edward C. Russell, who
associated with him his son-in-law, Edward A. Phelps, Jr. At the
dissolution of this partnership in 1870, the firm became Trusdell &
Phelps. Mr. Phelps succeeded Trusdell, and sold out to Loudon & Stellwag
in 1877. They were succeeded by Loudon & Johnson in 1879, and this firm
continued until 1910, when James D. Johnson retired, and the firm of
Loudon & Son took charge. These were J. Carlyle Loudon and his son,
Howard C. Loudon, who died in 1911. The firm name of Loudon & Son
continues.
One of the most vigorous personalities of the sixties, and one whose
influence extended well into this generation, was Thomas Reid. Born in
Bridgeport, England, he came to the United States as a boy, and started
his business career as a grocer's clerk in Brooklyn. Within three months
after landing, he bought out his employer. He entered the wholesale
coffee-roasting business at 105 Murray Street, New York, in 1855, in
partnership with a Mr. Townsend under the style of the Globe Mills,
which were the predecessors of the Eppens Smith Co. now in Warren
Street. Jabez Burns, inventor of the Burns coffee roaster, before this a
teamster for Henry Blair, was at one time bookkeeper for the Globe
Mills. In 1864, Mr. Burns sold to the Globe Mills the first roasters of
his manufacture--two one-bag, four-foot machines that were given a place
alongside of four of the old-style Carter pull-outs.
Mr. Townsend died the first year of the Globe Mills' existence; and
Thomas Reid continued without a partner until 1863, when he became
associated with John F. Pupke, as Pupke & Reid. The business was then at
269 Washington Street. Thomas Reid was resourceful and enterprising;
also he had vision. He saw the day of package coffee coming, and nearly
"beat" John Arbuckle to it. As early as 1861 we find him advertising in
the _City Directory_, "spices put up in every variety of package."
Lewis A. Osborn, 69 Warren Street, New York, and 81-83 South Water
Street, Chicago, was advertising "Osborn's Celebrated Prepared Java
Coffee--put up only by Lewis A. Osborn" in 1863-64. Thomas Reid appears
to have acquired this brand and to have begun its exploitation as
"Osborn's Old Government Java," a ground package coffee, and certainly
one of the earliest package coffees. However, this brand never attained
the national vogue achieved by John Arbuckle's package coffee, which
first appeared in 1865, although the name Ariosa was not given it until
1873.
Between 1855 and 1865 there were only half-a-dozen wholesale coffee
roasters on Manhattan Island, and Thomas Reid was their leader. Much of
his work was roasting for the trade, and this undoubtedly interfered
with the logical development of his package-coffee ideas.
The firm became Pupke, Reid & Phelps in 1882. In 1885, it became the
original Eppens-Smith Co.; later, the Eppens, Smith & Wiemann Co., and
lastly, the Eppens Smith Co. Thomas Reid was vice-president of the
Eppens, Smith & Wiemann Co., and continued in that position until his
death in 1902. Julius Eppens is the present head of the business.
Other package coffees of the sixties were Government coffee put out by
Taber & Place's Rubia Mills, 353-355 Washington Street, in "tin foil
pound papers," and L. Bruckmann & Co.'s London Club, packed at 107
Warren Street.
Another old-time New York coffee-roasting business is that of Samuel S.
Beard & Co. This business was founded in 1834 on Front Street by Eli
Beard (father of Samuel S. Beard,) and W.A. Cummings as Beard &
Cummings. In 1872, the firm moved to Duane Street, where it was joined
by Messrs. S.S. Beard and Cottrell, and the new firm became Beards &
Cottrell. Mr. Cottrell retired in 1883, and the firm became Samuel S.
Beard & Co. Upon the death of S.S. Beard in 1905, James H. Murray, who
had been with the concern for many years, became head of the house. Mr.
Murray died six months later. The business moved in 1913 to 92 Front
Street, where it continues as a stock company, with J.R. Westfal as
manager.
Austin C. Fitzpatrick, well known among New York coffee roasters, is a
graduate of the Thomas Reid school, having entered the business of this
pioneer roaster in 1865. He was western salesman for Pupke & Reid until
1871, when he became associated with Rufus G. Story under the firm name
of R. G. Story & Co. Later, he formed a partnership with Howard E. Case,
buying out the old house of Beard & Howell. When Mr. Case retired in
1887, the firm became A.C. Fitzpatrick & Co. This title continued for
twelve years, when the Knickerbocker Mills were taken over, and the
business was incorporated as the Knickerbocker Mills Co., with Mr.
Fitzpatrick as president. The Knickerbocker Mills, acquired by the
corporation, had been founded in 1842 and were for more than forty years
at 154-156 Chambers Street. The business is now at 196-198 Chambers
Street.
[Illustration: JULIUS A. EPPENS, NEW YORK]
Many of the pioneers in the coffee roasting business of this country
were men who came from the British Isles and Germany. A notable figure
from the latter country was Benedickt Fischer, who knew coffee in
Germany before coming to New York in his nineteenth year. He started at
323-329 Greenwich Street, near Duane Street, in 1859. His first roaster
was a primitive affair built under the E.J. Hyde patent by the Coffee
Roaster & Mill Manufacturing Co. of Philadelphia. It was turned by hand
by Fischer and his helper. This was about 1862. In 1864, the business
required larger quarters, and was removed to the corner of Duane and
Greenwich Streets. A new plant was erected at the corner of Beach and
Greenwich Streets in 1894, and the present plant was erected at the
corner of Franklin and Greenwich Streets in 1906. Upon the death of
Benedickt Fischer in 1903, the business passed under the control of
William H. Fischer, son of Benedickt, and Benedickt's son-in-law,
Charles E. Diefenthaler, for many years associated with the house. At
present, the company is a corporation, with C.E. Diefenthaler,
president; T.F. Diefenthaler, vice-president and treasurer; and T.O.
Budenbach, secretary.
Bowie Dash, a commanding figure in the New York green coffee trade,
founded the Holland Coffee Co., roasters, in 1885. He placed H. Bartow
in charge. Mr. Dash himself was never active in the affairs of the
company. J. Bowie Dash, son of Bowie Dash, entered the Holland Coffee
Co. as a boy. Bowie Dash died in 1894. Mr. Bartow left The Holland
Coffee Co. in 1897 and J. Bowie Dash became president. He sold the
company in 1917 to S.B. Morrison, who consolidated it with his Esperanza
Coffee Co. The business is still conducted as the Holland Coffee Co.,
with Mr. Morrison as president, at 162 Front Street.
George Fisher was a well known coffee roaster of the sixties. He began
in the old Hope Mills, 71 Fulton Street, and, at the age of thirty,
entered into partnership with D.C. Ripley, establishing the Hudson
Mills. The firm became Sanger, Beers & Fisher in 1868; Mr. Fisher
retired in 1882; and died in 1896.
Peter Haulenbeek began work as delivery boy in a grocery store. He
entered the coffee business in the sixties in the employ of Wright
Gillies, and went into the wholesale coffee-roasting trade under his own
name at 170 Duane Street in 1876. His son, John W. Haulenbeek, Sr., came
into his father's business in 1887. Peter Haulenbeek died January 15,
1894, and the firm name was changed to John W. Haulenbeek & Co. The
business remained in the same building up to 1916, when it was moved to
its present location at 393 Greenwich Street. John W. Haulenbeek, Jr.,
of the third generation, is now active in the business.
A leading figure in the sixties was James Brown, who started as an
engineer, rose to a partnership, and retired after the Civil War, a
wealthy man. He was a partner with Thomas Reid in the old Globe Mills.
He was also associated with B. Fischer in the firm of Fischer, Kirby &
Brown, and established the firm of Brown & Scott in Duane Street, where
Peter Haulenbeek succeeded to the business. Afterward, he continued in
the firms of Brown & Jones and Bisland & Brown, and died in 1898.
Van Loan, Maguire & Gaffney was a formidable combination in the
coffee-roasting business in its day. Thomas Van Loan was for thirty
years a partner in the firm of W.J. Stitt & Co. (William J. Stitt was in
business at 173 Washington Street in the fifties). Joseph Maguire was a
practical spice grinder. Hugh Gaffney was with Brown & Scott until the
firm retired in 1879, and for ten years thereafter he traveled for B.
Fischer & Co. Then he became a member of the firm of Benedict &
Gaffney. Ill health caused his temporary retirement; but he returned to
the business in 1897 when he organized the firm of Van Loan, Maguire &
Gaffney. Joseph Maguire died in 1904.
[Illustration: THOMAS VAN LOAN, NEW YORK]
Mr. Gaffney died on March 20, 1912, and the name of the business was
changed to Van Loan & Co., with Thomas Van Loan as the head of the
business, under which name and management it still continues at 64 North
Moore Street.
O'Donohue is a well known name in the development of both the green and
roasted coffee trade of New York City. John O'Donohue was a leader in
the green coffee business in 1830. It was John O'Donohue's Sons in 1873.
John B. O'Donohue, son of Peter O'Donohue and grandson of the original
John, after leaving John O'Donohue's Sons, formed a partnership with
Robert C. Stewart (the present head of R.C. Stewart & Co.) to engage in
the green coffee jobbing business as O'Donohue & Stewart. This
partnership was dissolved in 1893. For a few years, John O'Donohue was
associated with the coffee-roasting firm of Wing Bros. & Hart. About
1898, he formed the O'Donohue Coffee Co. at 284 Front Street. In 1910,
this was consolidated with the Potter Coffee Co. and Bennett, Sloan &
Co. to form the Potter, Sloan, O'Donohue Co. The firm dissolved in 1915.
Ellis M. Potter came to New York from the Potter-Parlin Spice Mills in
Cincinnati. Mr. O'Donohue died in 1918.
In the seventies Frederick Akers was proprietor of the oldest and best
known trade roasting establishment in New York. The plant was known as
the Atlas Mills, and was at 17 Jay Street. Mr. Akers died in 1901. The
same year, William J. Morrison and Walter B. Boinest, former employees
of Akers, formed a partnership to carry on the same kind of business at
413 Greenwich Street. It is still at that address under the name of
Morrison & Boinest Co.
Col. William P. Roome, a Chesterfieldian figure among New York coffee
roasters, came into the trade in 1876, when he established the firm of
William P. Roome & Co., with T.L. Vickers as partner. In the Civil War
that had preceded, young Roome (he was then nineteen) had distinguished
himself as a conspicuous hero of the Sixth Army Corps, having entered
the service as a second lieutenant in the Sixty-fifth New York
Volunteers.
William P. Roome & Co. first engaged in the importation of tea, but they
added coffee to the business in 1889. Col. Roome disposed of it in 1903
to assume charge of the tea and coffee department of the Acker, Merrall
& Condit Company, a position which he still holds.
Frederick A. Cauchois, another picturesque figure among New York coffee
roasters, entered the trade as a clerk in the New York office of Chase &
Sanborn in 1875. After further tutelage under Frank Williams in the
coffee brokerage business, he bought the old Fulton Mills (Colgate
Gilbert & Co., 1848), in Fulton Street, where he did some of the most
original advertising for coffee that the trade has seen. His Private
Estate coffee in little burlap bags, his donkey train that carried the
bags of green coffee through the streets of the metropolis, his system
of delivering fresh coffee daily to the grocery trade, and his Japanese
paper filter device to insure the proper making of the coffee, made him
famous. He brought something of the spirit of the old English coffee
house to America, and incorporated it in Keen's Chop House in New York.
He died in 1918.
The business of Russell & Co. was founded by Robert S. Russell & Frank
Smith at 107 Water Street in 1875. In 1895, S.L. Davis, one of the
present owners, formerly with Merrit & Ronaldson, became a partner. In
1900, Frank C. Russell, son of the senior member, was admitted to a
partnership; and upon the death of his father in 1904, he and Mr. Davis
became owners of the business.
Ross W. Weir, who, in addition to being a successful New York coffee
roaster, has also attained prominence as president of the National
Coffee Roasters Association and chairman of the Joint Coffee Trade
Publicity Committee, handling the million dollar coffee advertising
campaign, was born in New York in 1859, the son of J.B. Weir, one of the
pioneer forty-niners, who at one time was engaged in the export
commission business in San Francisco.
Mr. Weir began his business career as a general utility boy in the
jobbing grocery house of S.H. Williamson, 36 Broadway, New York, in
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