All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1916. The business is now (1922) carried on by W.E. and Jay E. Tone.
3543 words | Chapter 160
Edward Canby began business in Dayton, Ohio, in 1875, succeeding the
firm of J.D. Beach & Co. He retired in 1886, and the business was left
in charge of Frank L. Canby and P.J. Ach. The latter had entered the
employ of Canby in 1877. He secured an interest in the business in 1882,
and became a partner in 1890. When the company was incorporated as
Canby, Ach & Canby in 1904, he was elected president. Mr. Ach has been
very prominent in the affairs of the National Coffee Roasters
Association since its organization.
Frank J. Geiger began in the tea, coffee, and spice business in
Lafayette, Ind., under the name of Culver & Geiger. Mr. Culver, who had
never been active, died in 1889, and in 1892 the Geiger-Tinney Company
was formed with F.J. Geiger as president. The plant was moved to
Indianapolis in 1901 with William L. Horn as vice-president, and Henry
C. Tinney as secretary and treasurer. The name was changed to the
Geiger-Fishback Co. in 1912, and Mr. Geiger retired. Frank S. Fishback
acquired all the stock of the company in 1918, and the name was changed
to the Fishback Co. with F.S. Fishback, president; John S. Fishback,
treasurer; and F. C. Fishback, secretary.
S. Holstad joined the Thomson & Taylor Spice Co of Chicago in 1892. He
left in 1901 and went to Minneapolis, where he became a member of the
firm of Atwood & Hoisted. He withdrew in 1908 to form the firm of S.
Holstad & Co., with Charles Ekelund and Alexander W. Kreiser as
partners. After the withdrawal of Mr. Holstad from Atwood & Holstad, Mr.
Atwood continued as Atwood & Co.
F.P. Atha began work as a coffee salesman with Holman & Co., Terre
Haute, Ind. He went to San Francisco in 1899 and entered the employ of
J.A. Folger & Co., and introduced Folger products east of the Rockies.
He opened the Kansas City branch in 1907; and a year later, he was
admitted to the firm and made vice-president and general manager.
_The National Coffee Roasters Association_
The first effort to organize the coffee roasters of the United States
dates back to 1885, when several St. Louis coffee roasters came together
in a kind of gentlemen's agreement not to cut the price of roasting
green coffee, which had declined, owing to ruthless competition, from
$1.00 to 10 cents a bag. The various parties to the agreement posted
$500 checks each as forfeits, not to violate the price as fixed. After
one year, a check was cashed; but the principal claimed his lapse was
clerical and not in violation of the agreement. However, as a result of
the argument that followed, the organization was disbanded.
[Illustration: MEMBERS OF THE ORGANIZATION CONVENTION OF THE NATIONAL
COFFEE ROASTERS ASSOCIATION, ST. LOUIS, MAY 26, 1911
Reading from left to right: W.B. Johnson, St. Louis; W.T. Jones, New
Orleans; George Schulte, St. Louis; C.F. Blanke, St. Louis; Ben Casanas,
New Orleans; Carl Stoffregen, St. Louis; Edward D. Hanly, Kansas City;
H.C. Grote, St. Louis; James Menown, St. Louis; Frank P. Atha, Kansas
City; Henry Petring, St. Louis; J.M. McFadden, Dubuque, Iowa; Joseph
Maury, Memphis; T.F. Halligan, Davenport; F.J. Ach, Dayton; Carl Brand,
Cleveland; Wm. Fisher, St. Louis; M.H. Gasser, Toledo; Julius J.
Schotten, St. Louis; E.W. Bockman, Paducah, Ky.; Louis Christopherson,
St. Louis; Felix Coste, St. Louis; W.E. Tone, Des Moines; Robert Meyer,
St. Louis; Fred Roth, St. Louis; M.E. Smith. St. Louis; J.B.
Dubrouilett, St. Louis; Floyd Norwine, St. Louis]
As early as 1900, leaders of the trade's best thought began to urge the
need of a national organization among coffee roasters.
As a result of informal meetings between men like Robert M. Forbes,
Julius J. Schotten, Robert Meyer, and Messrs. Roth and Homeyer, around
the luncheon table in St. Louis, to discuss trade abuses and bring about
better trade co-operation, the subject of a St. Louis organization of
coffee roasters began to be agitated about 1906. It was not until four
years later, however, that the idea took definite form.
On September 14, 1910, the Traffic Association of St. Louis Coffee
Importers was organized, starting out with a membership of ten firms,
its chief object being to obtain an adjustment of freight rates to and
from St. Louis as advantageous as those prevailing for Chicago and New
York.
This association--of which Robert Meyer was the first president, and
H.L. Homeyer, vice-president, J.S. Hartman, secretary, and G.H. Petring,
treasurer--was the forerunner of the National Coffee Roasters Traffic
and Pure Food Association organized in 1911 and now known as the
National Coffee Roasters Association.
At the organization meeting of the national association twenty-six
coffee-roasting establishments in the Mississippi Valley were
represented at the conference held May 26-27 in the Planters Hotel, St.
Louis. The objects of the new body were announced in the constitution,
as:
_First_: To foster and promote a feeling of fellowship and good
will among its members, and on broad and equitable lines to advance
the welfare of the coffee trade and the consumer.
_Second_: To eliminate or minimize abuses, methods and practises
inimical to the proper conduct of business.
_Third_: To assist in the enactment and enforcement of uniform pure
food laws which in their operations shall deal justly and equitably
with the rights of the consumer and the trade.
The association started with these officers: Julius J. Schotten, St.
Louis, President; M.H. Gasser, Toledo, vice-president; W.E. Tone, Des
Moines, treasurer, and W.J.H. Bown, St. Louis, secretary.
Meanwhile, as a result of an agitation started by _The Tea and Coffee
Trade Journal_, a meeting of New York and eastern coffee roasters was
called at the Fulton Club, New York, October 27, 1911, to discuss plans
for a national organization. M. H. Gasser attended this meeting, and
told of the plan of the western roasters to organize such an
organization at a meeting called for Chicago the following month. The
promoters of the eastern organization subsequently abandoned their
efforts in favor of the western group.
[Illustration: ROBERT MEYER, ST. LOUIS
First president of the Coffee Roasters' original organization]
At the first convention of the National Coffee Roasters Traffic and Pure
Food Association, held in Chicago, November 16-17, 1911, all the
foregoing officers were retained, the office of second vice-president
was created, and Frank R. Seelye was selected to fill it.
That the organization idea was popular among the roasters was evident
from the fact that at the close of the convention it was announced that
the membership was then seventy-one firms in cities as far east as
Virginia and as far west as Kansas City. The convention demonstrated
that the association was really a national organization, which quieted
suspicions prevalent in some quarters of the trade in the east that it
was chiefly a Mississippi Valley unit.
The first convention is remembered principally because of Hermann
Sielcken's defense of the Brazil coffee valorization plan, which was
then the big question of the coffee trade. The titles of some of the
other addresses will serve to indicate how the scope of the association
had enlarged since its organization a few months before: "An Attack on
Valorization" by Thomas J. Webb, of Chicago; "Uniform Food Laws", by
W.T. Jones, of New Orleans; "Penny-Change Systems," by R.W. McCreery, of
Marshalltown, Ia; "Traffic and Freight Abuses," by W.E. Tone, of Des
Moines; "Transportation Problems," by Carl H. Stoffregen, St. Louis;
"Coffee Publicity," by F.H. Henrici, of Chicago; "Coffee Roasters' Costs
and Accounting," by F.J. Ach, Chicago. The first convention proved a
success, and attracted attention.
The second annual convention, held in New York, November 13-15, 1912,
showed that the association had grown to a membership of 135 firms
located in all parts of the country, and that its influence had extended
throughout the whole trade. Valorization continued to be a much
discussed subject. Hermann Sielcken and others again defending it in
speeches; but the majority of the association seemed opposed to the
scheme. Probably the most important feature of the convention was the
report of the committee of nine men who had visited Brazil to
investigate conditions there and to interest the Brazilian coffee
growers in an advertising campaign. An address on this subject was made
by the editor of _The Tea and Coffee Trade Journal_, in which he
suggested a plan for propaganda and advocated scientific research to
find out the truth about coffee.
The election of officers resulted in the selection of F.J. Ach, Dayton,
as president; Frank R. Seelye, Chicago, first vice-president; Ross W.
Weir, New York, second vice-president; and Robert Meyer, St. Louis,
treasurer.
The 1912 convention changed the name of the association to the National
Coffee Roasters Association, dropping the words "Traffic and Pure Food"
from the original title.
[Illustration: JULIUS J. SCHOTTEN--1911-12]
[Illustration: F.J. ACH--1912-14]
[Illustration: ROSS W. WEIR--1914-16]
[Illustration]
[Illustration: FRANK R. SEELYE--1916-17]
[Illustration: BEN C. CASANAS--1917-18]
[Illustration: CARL W. BRAND--1918-21]
[Illustration: FORMER PRESIDENTS, NATIONAL COFFEE ROASTERS ASSOCIATION]
The third convention, which was held November 12-14, 1913, in
Cincinnati, demonstrated that the scope of usefulness of the association
was still growing, as shown by the resolutions which approved better
coffee-making publicity; favored a national coffee day; urged the
appointment of inspectors at ports of entry to prevent the importation
of green coffee under government standard No. 8; condemned the excessive
watering of coffee and all coffee coatings; and provided for the
appointment of an agent to visit Brazil to furnish members with
"reliable" reports on crop flowering.
F.J. Ach was re-elected president; Ross W. Weir succeeded F.R. Seelye as
first vice-president; W.T. Jones succeeded Mr. Weir as second
vice-president, and Robert Meyer was retained as treasurer.
Secretary G.W. Toms, who had been appointed in April, 1913, reported
that the association had made a net gain of thirteen members, bringing
the total up to 144.
The membership of the association had been increased by twenty names
when the fourth annual convention was opened in New Orleans, November
16-19, 1914, making the total 164.
Better coffee making, roasting economies, a national coffee week, and
improved methods of handling green coffee in ports and warehouses, were
the principal topics considered at the 1914 meeting. As a result of the
discussions, the association went on record in its resolutions as being
against the misbranding of both green and roasted coffee; favored the
creation of a United States board of coffee experts; and the
establishment of an association trade-mark bureau.
For the ensuing year Ross W. Weir, New York, was chosen president; J.O.
Cheek, Nashville, first vice-president; T.F. Halligan, Davenport, second
vice-president; and W.T. Morley, Worcester, treasurer.
The decision to get together on a comprehensive national publicity
campaign in the interest of coffee was the outstanding feature of the
fifth annual convention, which was held in St. Louis, November 8-11,
1915, in the same room in the Planters Hotel in which the association
was organized in 1911. From a body of twenty-six roasters, the
association had grown in five years to a membership of 201 firms and
individuals.
Among the more important things done at this convention was the decision
to undertake a practical publicity plan to advertise coffee; the
adoption of a uniform cost-and-freight contract; the proposal to prepare
educational matter on coffee for the schools; and the recommendation to
employ a chemist to carry on research work. There were spirited
discussions also on gas, coal, and coke as roasting fuels; on the best
way to get retailer co-operation, and whether it was advisable to
continue the national coffee week idea. President Weir, Vice-Presidents
Cheek and Halligan, and Treasurer Morley were re-elected.
The sixth annual convention, held in Atlantic City, November 14-17,
1916, placed emphasis on research into grinding and brewing; on plans
for doing something practical to help grocers regain their lost coffee
trade; and on an investigation into the scientific costs of roasting.
The admittance of green coffee and allied interests into the association
was also discussed, and it was resolved to make the subject an order of
business for special consideration at the next convention.
At this meeting Frank R. Seelye, Chicago, was elected president; Ben C.
Casanas, New Orleans, first vice-president; J.M. McFadden, Dubuque,
second vice-president; and M.H. Gasser, Toledo, treasurer. The
membership was reported as being 204, showing a net increase of three
during the year.
The seventh convention, held in Chicago, November 14-15, 1917, came when
the first movement of American soldiers to European battlefields was
begun, and patriotism was the keynote of the meeting. Because of the
stress of the times, the program was cut to two days, instead of the
three days of former meetings.
The outstanding features of the convention were: the decision not to
admit green coffee men to the association; the decision to establish a
permanent headquarters; the announcement that Brazil was then collecting
funds for its part in the national advertising campaign; and the
proposal by John E. King, Detroit, that the term "lead number" be used
instead of "caffetannic acid", which he asserted was a misnomer. The
executive committee was authorized to employ a secretary-manager. The
shorter terms and credits idea was endorsed by the association.
These officers were elected for the next year; Ben C. Casanas, New
Orleans, president; S.H. Holstad, Minneapolis, first vice-president;
Edward Aborn, New York, second vice-president; M.H. Gasser, Toledo,
treasurer.
The influenza epidemic, which swept the country the latter part of 1918,
caused the postponement of many business and public gatherings, and the
eighth annual roasters convention did not assemble until December 5-6,
in Cleveland--at only ten days' notice. Unlike previous occasions, this
was in reality a combined convention of all roasted and green coffee men
in the trade, both association members and non-members. No regular
program was followed, the meeting being somewhat in the character of a
trade conference.
The salient features of the convention were the decisions: to double the
annual dues, in order to provide for a paid secretary-manager and to
establish permanent headquarters; to organize a spice grinders' section;
and to ask the government to remove all restrictions on coffee trading.
The Food Administration's coffee regulations came in for severe
criticism.
The election of officers resulted in Carl W. Brand, Cleveland, becoming
president; Robert M. Forbes, St. Louis, first vice-president; J.A.
Folger, San Francisco, second vice-president; and Lewis Sherman,
Milwaukee, treasurer.
The ninth convention of the National Coffee Roasters Association was of
greater import to all branches of the coffee trade than any that had
preceded it. The results of the meeting showed the association had gone
far since the organization meeting in St. Louis in 1911. As in 1916, the
convention was held in Atlantic City, November 12-14, 1919, and drew
delegates from as far west as San Francisco and Seattle.
The most important subjects before the meeting were the reports of the
Joint Coffee Trade Publicity Committee, read by Ross W. Weir, chairman,
and Felix Coste, secretary-manager. The committee had been organized
during the year to carry on the national coffee-advertising campaign,
and announced at the convention its publicity plans for the next year,
which included a national coffee week, a national showing of the
committee's coffee film, and the issuance of several educational
booklets. Other outstanding features included the description of how the
association planned to conduct a research into the cost of doing a
wholesale coffee-roasting business, the investigation to be made by
Columbia University; addresses attacking the meat packers' invasion of
the coffee roasting and distributing field; a paper, and discussions, on
shorter terms and uniform discounts; the recommendation to employ a
traveling field secretary who would hold periodical meetings with local
branches; and the condemnation of guaranteeing prices against decline
and giving advance notices of changes of prices.
The convention unanimously agreed to the re-election of President Brand,
Vice-Presidents Forbes and Folger, and Treasurer Sherman.
The tenth annual meeting was held in St. Louis, November 10-12, 1920.
Scientific cost finding, short terms and discounts, the national
advertising campaign, the activities of the N.C.R.A. freight-forwarding
bureau, and laboratory-research were the main topics of this years'
gathering. The membership was reported to be 310. A feature of the
meeting was the first industrial exhibit by twenty-five supply houses.
Among the things accomplished were:
The recommendation that members co-operate in determining the invisible
supply of coffee in the United States at stated periods; increasing
annual dues from $50 to $60 for members having $50,000 or less
capitalization, and from $100 to $120 for firms having more than $50,000
capital; restricting membership to purely wholesale coffee roasters and
distributers; and offering co-operation to hotel-men and
restaurant-keepers in standardizing and improving their coffee
beverages.
The St. Louis meeting was notable in violating association precedent by
unanimously electing Carl W. Brand president for the third consecutive
term. Other officers were: J.A. Folger, San Francisco, first
vice-president, R.O. Miller, Chicago, second vice-president; Charles A.
Clark, Milwaukee, treasurer.
The eleventh annual meeting, held in New York, November 1-3, 1921, set
the high-water mark of the organization's record of achievement. This
convention took the first definite steps toward the amalgamation of the
green and roasted coffee interests in one association. Brazil sent a
delegation of coffee men to invite a similar delegation to pay a return
visit to Brazil. It was announced also that São Paulo was about to
double its tax contribution to the national advertising campaign. Among
other things done, were: the appropriation of $1500 to work out a
uniform cost-accounting system for roasters; the recommendation that
coffee importers insist upon the use of American ships by Brazilian
exporters; the formulation of a cost-and-freight arbitration contract
for use with São Paulo exporters; the formation of a new membership
class roasting up to 6000 bags a year; and the decision to make a
national campaign to put the selling of coffee on a uniform thirty-days
credit, two percent cash in ten days basis. Professor S.C. Prescott,
reporting on the research work being done at the Massachusetts Institute
of Technology, said a better brew of coffee could be obtained at a
temperature of 185 degrees than at the boiling point; that glass, china,
or enameled-ware pots were to be preferred, and that the filtration
method is superior to that employed in the pumping percolator.
[Illustration: JOEL O. CHEEK, NASHVILLE
President of the National Coffee Roasters Association, 1922]
The Industrial Exposition included displays by twenty-eight
manufacturers of machinery and supplies, and was voted a success. Many
of the exhibits were of a distinctly educational character.
The following officers were elected for 1921-22: President, Joel O.
Cheek, Nashville, Tenn.; first vice-president, Webster Jones, San
Francisco; second vice-president, Joseph E. Maury, Memphis, Tenn.;
treasurer, Frank Ennis, Kansas City.
_Coffee Roaster Statistics_
As might be expected, considering the leading place that New York holds
as a port of entry for coffee, the roasting and grinding of coffee is
more important in the eastern section of the country than in any other.
But there are many establishments for preparing coffee scattered
throughout the south and the middle west, and the business has grown to
considerable proportions on the Pacific coast. New York state leads in
number of establishments and is followed by Pennsylvania, California,
Missouri, Ohio, and Illinois. The chief southern state is Texas,
followed by Louisiana and Kentucky, although Maryland and Louisiana lead
in value of product. Missouri has more plants than any other state in
the middle west, and is followed by Illinois, though the capital
invested and the value of the output are much greater in the latter than
in the former.
COFFEE AND SPICE ROASTING AND GRINDING
ESTABLISHMENTS--CENSUS OF 1914
_Value of_
_States_ _Number_ _Capital_ _product_
Alabama 8 $155,000 $331,000
California 43 3,619,000 9,584,000
Colorado 9 445,000 1,168,000
Connecticut 7 136,000 435,000
Dist. of Col. 5 294,000 428,000
Florida 19 219,000 697,000
Georgia 6 80,000 169,000
Illinois 34 8,159,000 22,045,000
Indiana 12 941,000 1,790,000
Iowa 14 1,752,000 3,804,000
Kansas 6 144,000 396,000
Kentucky 17 541,000 1,561,000
Louisiana 17 1,657,000 4,241,000
Maryland 14 1,643,000 4,393,000
Massachusetts 21 3,678,000 8,675,000
Michigan 16 502,000 1,618,000
Minnesota 11 1,531,000 4,729,000
Mississippi 5 27,000 94,000
Missouri 37 6,152,000 14,299,000
Nebraska 6 405,000 1,262,000
New Jersey 17 828,000 3,451,000
New York 136 9,910,000 31,675,000
Ohio 35 6,578,000 13,312,000
Oklahoma 6 191,000 757,000
Oregon 9 757,000 2,050,000
Pennsylvania 77 2,454,000 6,967,000
Tennessee 7 465,000 1,648,000
Texas 36 970,000 3,326,000
Virginia 9 413,000 1,137,000
Washington 25 1,023,000 2,237,000
West Virginia 3 73,000 71,000
Wisconsin 8 362,000 809,000
Other states 21 492,000 1,590,000
____ ___________ ____________
Total 696 $56,596,000 $150,749,000
The distribution of the business of preparing coffee is shown by the
figures of the Census Bureau, which reports for 1914 a total of 696
establishments under the designation "Coffee and spice, roasting and
grinding." It was found to be necessary to adopt this classification
inasmuch as most establishments handle both coffee and spices. Of the
696, however, 658 had coffee as their principal product, and the figures
may thus be taken as indicating fairly well the general distribution of
the coffee-manufacturing industry. These figures, for the various
states, are shown on page 515.
Preliminary figures for the 1919 census show that the value of the
product almost doubled in the five years 1914-19, amounting to
$304,740,000 in 1919, while the number of establishments increased from
696 to 794, of which 769 specialize in coffee.
[Illustration]
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