All about coffee by William H. Ukers
5. Belgium 11.06 10. France 7.74
7426 words | Chapter 112
The per capita consumption of the most important coffee-consuming
countries, based on the large table, is given with the 1913 per capita
figures for comparison:
PER CAPITA COFFEE CONSUMPTION TABLE
_Country Year Pounds Pds_., 1913
United States 1921 12.09 8.90[t]
Canada 1921[s] 1.93 2.17[u]
Newfoundland 1920[s] 0.19 0.19[t]
United Kingdom 1921 0.72 0.61[t]
France 1921 7.74 6.41
Spain 1920 2.33 1.64
Portugal 1919 0.86 1.16
Belgium 1921 11.06 12.27
Holland 1921 10.22 18.80
Denmark 1921 13.19 12.85
Norway 1921 10.95 12.29
Sweden 1921 15.25 13.41
Finland 1921 8.25 8.85
Russia 1916 0.05 0.16
Austria-Hungary 1917 0.34 2.54
Germany 1921 4.10 5.43
Roumania 1919 0.29 1.04
Greece 1920 2.97 1.19
Switzerland 1921 8.17 6.48
Italy 1920 1.84 1.79
Egypt 1921 1.53 1.15
Union of So. Africa 1920 3.80[v] 4.19[v]
Ceylon 1920 0.43 0.36
China 1920 0.001 0.01
Japan 1920 0.01 0.004
Cuba 1920[s] 13.79 10.00
Argentina 1919 4.40 3.74
Chile 1920 3.06 3.04
Uruguay 1921 3.61 [w]
Paraguay 1920 0.26 [w]
Australia 1920[s] 0.42 0.64
New Zealand 1920 0.24 0.29
[s] Fiscal year.
[t] Fiscal year 1913.
[u] Fiscal year ending March 31, 1914.
[v] Including both white and colored population.
[w] Not available.
_Tea and Coffee in England and the U. S_.
The rise of the United States as a coffee consumer in the last century
and a quarter has been marked, not only by steadily increased imports as
the population of the country increased, but also by a steady growth in
per capita consumption, showing that the beverage has been continually
advancing in favor with the American people. Today it stands at
practically its highest point, each individual man, woman, and child
having more than 12 pounds a year, enough for almost 500 cups, allotted
to him as his portion. This is four times as much as it was a hundred
years ago; and more than twice as much as it was in the years
immediately following the Civil War. In general it is fifty percent more
than the average in the twenty years preceding 1897, in which year a new
high level of coffee consumption was apparently established, the per
capita figure for that year being 10.12 pounds, which has been
approximately the average since then.
[Illustration: No. 6--WORLD'S CONSUMPTION OF TEA AND COFFEE
Diagram showing their relationship, 1860-1920]
Since the advent of country-wide prohibition in the United States on
July 1, 1919, about two pounds more coffee per person, or 80 to 100
cups, have been consumed than before. Part of this increase is doubtless
to be charged to prohibition; but it is yet too early to judge fairly as
to the exact effect of "bone-dry" legislation on coffee drinking. The
continued growth in the use of coffee in the United States has been in
decided contrast to the per capita consumption of tea, which is less now
than half a century ago.
In the United Kingdom, the reverse condition prevails. Tea drinking
there steadily maintains a popularity which it has enjoyed for
centuries; while coffee apparently makes no advance in favor. In this
respect, the country is sharply distinguished from its neighbors of
western Europe, in many of which coffee drinking has been much heavier,
considering the population, even than in the United States. The contrast
between the tastes of the two countries in beverages is shown clearly by
the per capita figures of tea and coffee consumption for half a century,
as they appear in the table, next column.
TEA AND COFFEE CONSUMPTION PER CAPITA
_Year United States United Kingdom_
Coffee Tea Coffee Tea
pounds pounds pounds pounds
1866 4.96 1.17 1.02 3.42
1867 5.01 1.09 1.04 3.68
1868 6.52 .96 1.00 3.52
1869 6.45 1.08 .94 3.63
1870 6.00 1.10 .98 3.81
1871 7.91 1.14 .97 3.92
1872 7.28 1.46 .98 4.01
1873 6.87 1.53 .99 4.11
1874 6.59 1.27 .96 4.23
1875 7.08 1.44 .98 4.44
1876 7.33 1.35 .99 4.50
1877 6.94 1.23 .96 4.52
1878 6.24 1.33 .97 4.66
1879 7.42 1.21 .99 4.68
1880 8.78 1.39 .92 4.57
1881 8.25 1.54 .89 4.58
1882 8.30 1.47 .89 4.69
1883 8.91 1.30 .89 4.82
1884 9.26 1.09 .90 4.90
1885 9.60 1.18 .91 5.06
1886 9.36 1.37 .87 4.92
1887 8.53 1.49 .80 5.02
1888 6.81 1.49 .83 5.03
1889 9.16 1.25 .76 4.99
1890 7.77 1.32 .75 5.17
1891 7.94 1.28 .76 5.36
1892 9.59 1.36 .74 5.43
1893 8.23 1.32 .69 5.40
1894 8.01 1.34 .68 5.51
1895 9.24 1.39 .70 5.65
1896 8.08 1.32 .69 5.75
1897 10.04 1.56 .68 5.79
1898 11.59 .93 .68 5.83
1899 10.72 .97 .71 5.95
1900 9.84 1.09 .71 6.07
1901 10.43 1.12 .76 6.16
1902 13.32 .92 .68 6.07
1903 10.80 1.27 .71 6.04
1904 11.67 1.31 .68 6.02
1905 11.98 1.19 .67 6.02
1906 9.72 1.06 .66 6.22
1907 11.15 .96 .67 6.26
1908 9.82 1.03 .66 6.24
1909 11.43 1.24 .67 6.37
1910 9.33 .89 .65 6.39
1911 9.29 1.05 .62 6.47
1912 9.26 1.04 .61 6.49
1913 8.90 .96 .61 6.68
1914 10.14 .91 .63 6.89
1915 10.62 .91 .71 6.87
1916 11.20 1.07 .66 6.56
1917 12.38 .99 1.02 6.03
1918 10.43 1.40 1.19 6.75
1919 9.13 .87 .76 8.43
1920 12.78 .84 .74 8.51
Figures for all except most recent years are taken
from the _Statistical Abstract_ publications of
the two countries. For the United States the figures
given apply to fiscal years ending June 30, and for
the United Kingdom to calendar years.
_Coffee Consumption in Europe_
On the continent of Europe, however, coffee enjoys much the same sort of
popularity that it does in the United States. The leading continental
coffee ports are Hamburg, Bremen, Copenhagen, Amsterdam, Rotterdam,
Antwerp, Havre, Bordeaux, Marseilles, and Trieste; and the nationalities
of these ports indicate pretty well the countries that consume the most
coffee. The northern ports are transhipping points for large quantities
of coffee going to the Scandinavian countries, as well as importing
ports for their own countries; and these countries have been among the
leading coffee drinkers, per head of population, for many decades.
Norway, for instance, in 1876 was consuming about 8.8 pounds of coffee
per person; Sweden, 5 pounds; and Denmark, 5.2 pounds. The per capita
consumption of various other countries at about the same period, 1875 to
1880, has been estimated as follows: Holland, 17.6 pounds; Belgium, 9.1
pounds; Germany, 5.1 pounds; Austria-Hungary, 2.2 pounds; Switzerland,
6.6 pounds; Prance, 3 pounds; Spain, 0.2 pounds; Portugal, 0.7 pounds;
and Greece, 1.6 pounds.
Today, the leading country of the world in point of per capita
consumption is Sweden (15.25 pounds); but Holland held that position for
a long while. During the World War the disturbance of trade currents,
and the high price of coffee, greatly reduced the amount of coffee
drinking; and the Dutch took to drinking tea in considerable
quantities.
FRANCE. Second only to the United States, in the total amount of coffee
consumed, is France; although that country before the war occupied third
place, being passed by Germany. Havre is one of the great coffee ports
of Europe; and has a coffee exchange organized in 1882, only a short
time after the Exchange in New York began operations. France draws on
all the large producing regions for her coffee; but is especially
prominent in the trade in the West Indies and the countries around the
Caribbean Sea. Imports in 1921 (preliminary) amounted to 322,419,884
pounds; exports to 1,154,769 pounds; and net consumption, to 321,265,115
pounds.
GERMANY. Hamburg is one of the world's important coffee ports; and in
normal times coffee is brought there in vast amounts, not only for
shipment into the interior of Germany, but also for transhipment to
Scandinavia, Finland and Russia. Up to the outbreak of the war, Germany
was the chief coffee-drinking country of Europe. During the blockade,
the Germans resorted to substitutes; and after the war because of high
prices, there was still some consumption of them. German coffee imports
since the war have not quite climbed back to their former high mark; and
the per capita consumption, judged by these figures is still somewhat
low. Importations amounted to 90,602,000 pounds in 1920. The amount of
total imports was 371,130,520 pounds in 1913; total exports, 1,783,521
pounds; and net imports, 369,346,999 pounds.
NETHERLANDS. Netherlands is one of the oldest coffee countries of
Europe, and for centuries has been a great transhipping agent,
distributing coffee from her East Indian possessions and from America
among her northern neighbors. Before sending these coffee shipments
along, however, she kept back enough plentifully to supply her own
people, so that for many years before the war she led the world in per
capita consumption. As far back as 1867-76, coffee consumption was
averaging more than 13 pounds per capita. In the year before the war,
the average was 18.8 pounds. The blockade, and other abnormal conditions
during the war, threw the trade off; and it is still sub-normal. In 1920
the net imports were about 96,000,000 pounds, which would give a per
capita consumption of about 14 pounds if it all went into consumption.
But part of it was probably stored for later exportation, as indicated
by the figures for 1921, which show heavy exports and a consequent lower
figure for consumption. Eighty percent of the Netherlands coffee trade
is handled through Amsterdam.
Consumption of coffee is now slowly going back to normal, but the change
in source of imports--which before the war came largely from Brazil but
which war conditions turned heavily toward the East Indies--is still in
evidence. Per capita consumption of coffee in Holland up to the outbreak
of the war was as follows:
COFFEE CONSUMPTION PER CAPITA IN HOLLAND
_Year Pounds Year Pounds_
1847-56 9.6 1907 14.9
1857-66 7.1 1908 14.3
1867-76 13.3 1909 16.7
1877-86 16.7 1910 15.7
1887-96 12.8 1911 15.8
1897-1906 16.7 1912 12.3
1906 17.2 1913 18.8
OTHER COUNTRIES OF EUROPE. Denmark, Norway, and Sweden are all heavy
coffee drinkers. In 1921 Sweden had the highest per capita consumption
in the world, 15.25 pounds. Before the war, these three countries each
consumed about as much per capita as the United States does today, 12 to
13 pounds. The 1921 imports for consumption[317] were as follows:
Denmark, 43,122,417 pounds; Norway, 29,665,623 pounds; Sweden,
89,660,766 pounds. Austria-Hungary was formerly an important buyer of
coffee, large quantities coming into the country yearly through Trieste.
Imports in 1913 totaled 130,951,000 pounds; and in 1912, 124,527,000
pounds. In 1917 the war cut down the total to 17,910,000 pounds net
consumption. Finland shares with her neighbors of the Baltic a strong
taste for coffee, importing, in 1921, 27,968,000 pounds, about 8.25
pounds per capita. In the same year, Belgium had a net importation of
83,824,000 pounds.
Spain, in 1920, consumed 48,513,821 pounds. Portugal, in 1919, imported
6,926,575 pounds; and exported 1,258,271 pounds, leaving 5,668,304
pounds for home consumption. Coffee is not especially popular in the
Balkan States and Italy; importations into the last-named country in
1920 amounting to 66,494,925 pounds net. Switzerland is a steady coffee
drinker, consuming 31,535,260 pounds in 1921. Russia was never fond of
coffee; and her total imports in 1917, according to a compilation made
under Soviet auspices, were only 4,464,000 pounds.
[Illustration: A MEETING OF THE COFFEE BROKERS OF AMSTERDAM, 1820
Reproduced from an old print]
OTHER COUNTRIES. The Union of South Africa, in 1920, imported 27,798,000
pounds net, or about 3.8 pounds per capita. Cuba purchased 39,981,696
pounds in the fiscal year 1920; Argentina, 37,541,000 pounds in 1919;
Chile, 12,358,000 pounds in 1920; Australia, 2,239,000 pounds in 1920;
and New Zealand, 283,633 pounds in that year.
_Three Centuries of Coffee Trading_
The story of the development of the world's coffee trade is a story of
about three centuries. When Columbus sailed for the new world, the
coffee plant was unknown even as near its original home as his native
Italy. In its probable birthplace in southern Abyssinia, the natives had
enjoyed its use for a long time, and it had spread to southwestern
Arabia; but the Mediterranean knew nothing of it until after the
beginning of the sixteenth century. It then crept slowly along the coast
of Asia Minor, through Syria, Damascus, and Aleppo, until it reached
Constantinople about 1554. It became very popular; coffee houses were
opened, and the first of many controversies arose. But coffee made its
way against all opposition, and soon was firmly established in Turkish
territory.
In those deliberate times, the next step westward, from Asia to Europe,
was not taken for more than fifty years. In general, its introduction
and establishment in Europe occupied the whole of the seventeenth
century.
The greatest pioneering work in coffee trading was done by the
Netherlands East India Company, which began operations in 1602. The
enterprise not only promoted the spread of coffee growing in two
hemispheres; but it was active also in introducing the sale of the
product in many European countries.
Coffee reached Venice about 1615, and Marseilles about 1644. The French
began importing coffee in commercial quantities in 1660. The Dutch began
to import Mocha coffee regularly at Amsterdam in 1663; and by 1679 the
French had developed a considerable trade in the berry between the
Levant and the cities of Lyons and Marseilles. Meanwhile, the coffee
drink had become fashionable in Paris, partly through its use by the
Turkish ambassador, and the first Parisian _café_ was opened in 1672. It
is significant of its steady popularity since then that the name _café_,
which is both French and Spanish for coffee, has come to mean a general
eating or drinking place.
[Illustration: BILL OF PUBLIC SALE OF COFFEE, ETC., 1790
Reproduction of an advertisement by the Dutch East India Company]
Active trading in coffee began in Germany about 1670, and in Sweden
about 1674.
Trading in coffee in England followed swiftly upon the heels of the
opening of the first coffee house in London in 1652. By 1700, the trade
included not only exporting and importing merchants, but wholesale and
retail dealers; the latter succeeding the apothecaries who, up to then,
had enjoyed a kind of monopoly of the business.
Trade and literary authorities[318] on coffee trading tell us that in
the early days of the eighteenth century the chief supplies of coffee
for England and western Europe came from the East Indies and Arabia. The
Arabian, or--as it was more generally known--Turkey berry, was bought
first-hand by Turkish merchants, who were accustomed to travel inland in
Arabia Felix, and to contract with native growers.
It was moved thence by camel transport through Judea to Grand Cairo,
_via_ Suez, to be transhipped down the Nile to Alexandria, then the
great shipping port for Asia and Europe. By 1722, 60,000 to 70,000 bales
of Turkish (Arabian) coffee a year were being received in England, the
sale price at Grand Cairo being fixed by the Bashaw, who "valorized" it
according to the supply. "Indian" coffee, which was also grown in
Arabia, was brought to Bettelfukere (Beit-el-fakih) in the mountains of
southwestern Arabia, where English, Dutch, and French factors went to
buy it and to transport it on camels to Moco (Mocha), whence it was
shipped to Europe around the Cape of Good Hope.
In the beginning, "Indian" coffee was inferior to Turkish coffee;
because it was the refuse, or what remained after the Turkish merchants
had taken the best. But after the European merchants began to make their
own purchases at Bettelfukere, the character of the "Indian" product as
sold in the London and other European markets was vastly improved.
Doubtless the long journey in sailing vessels over tropic seas made for
better quality. It was estimated that Arabia in this way exported about
a million bushels a year of "Turkish" and "Indian" coffee.
The coffee houses became the gathering places for wits, fashionable
people, and brilliant and scholarly men, to whom they afforded
opportunity for endless gossip and discussion. It was only natural that
the lively interchange of ideas at these public clubs should generate
liberal and radical opinions, and that the constituted authorities
should look askance at them. Indeed the consumption of coffee has been
curiously associated with movements of political protest in its whole
history, at least up to the nineteenth century.
Coffee has promoted clear thinking and right living wherever introduced.
It has gone hand in hand with the world's onward march toward democracy.
As already told in this work, royal orders closed the coffee houses for
short periods in Constantinople and in London; Germany required a
license for the sale of the beverage; the French Revolution was fomented
in coffee-house meetings; and the real cradle of American liberty is
said to have been a coffee house in New York. It is interesting also to
note that, while the consumption of coffee has been attended by these
agitations for greater liberty for three centuries, its production for
three centuries, in the Dutch East Indies, in the West Indies, and in
Brazil, was very largely in the hands of slaves or of forced labor.
Since the spread of the use of coffee to western Europe in the
seventeenth century, the development of the trade has been marked,
broadly speaking, by two features: (1) the shifting of the weight of
production, first to the West Indies, then to the East Indies, and then
to Brazil; and (2) the rise of the United States as the chief coffee
consumer of the world. Until the close of the seventeenth century, the
little district in Arabia, whence the coffee beans had first made their
way to Europe, continued to supply the whole world's trade. But sprigs
of coffee trees were beginning to go out from Arabia to other promising
lands, both eastward and westward. As previously related, the year 1699
was an important one in the history of this expansion, as it was then
that the Dutch successfully introduced the coffee plant from Arabia into
Java. This started a Far Eastern industry, whose importance continues to
this day, and also caused the mother country, Holland, to take up the
rôle of one of the leading coffee traders of the world, which she still
holds. Holland, in fact, took to coffee from the very first. It is
claimed that the first samples were introduced into that country from
Mocha in 1616--long before the beans were known in England or
France--and that by 1663, regular shipments were being made. Soon after
the coffee culture became firmly established in Java, regular shipments
to the mother country began, the first of these being a consignment of
894 pounds in 1711. Under the auspices of the Netherlands East India Co.
the system of cultivating coffee by forced labor was begun in the East
Indian colonies. It flourished until well into the nineteenth century.
One result of this colonial production of coffee was to make Holland the
leading coffee consumer per capita of the world, consumption in 1913, as
recorded on page 290, having reached as high as 18.8 pounds. It has long
been one of the leading coffee traders, importing and exporting in
normal times before the war between 150,000,000 and 300,000,000 pounds a
year.
[Illustration: PRE-WAR AVERAGE ANNUAL PRODUCTION OF COFFEE BY CONTINENTS
Fiscal years: 1910-1914
Total pounds: 2,311,917,200]
The introduction of the coffee plant into the new world took place
between 1715 and 1723. It quickly spread to the islands and the mainland
washed by the Caribbean. The latter part of the eighteenth century saw
tens of millions of pounds of coffee being shipped yearly to the mother
countries of western Europe; and for decades, the two great coffee trade
currents of the world continued to run from the West Indies to France,
England, Holland, and Germany; and from the Dutch East Indies to
Holland. These currents continued to flow until the disruption of world
trade-routes by the World War; but they had been pushed into positions
of secondary importance by the establishing of two new currents, running
respectively from Brazil to Europe, and from Brazil to the United
States, which constituted the nineteenth century's contribution to the
history of the world's coffee trade.
[Illustration: PRE-WAR AVERAGE ANNUAL PRODUCTION OF COFFEE BY COUNTRIES
Fiscal years: 1910-1914
Total pounds: 2,311,917,200]
The chief feature of the twentieth century's developments has been the
passing by the United States of the half-way mark in world consumption;
this country, since the second year of the World War, having taken more
than all the rest of the world put together. The world's chief coffee
"stream," so to speak, is now from Santos and Rio de Janeiro to New
York, other lesser streams being from these ports to Havre, Antwerp,
Amsterdam, and (in normal times) Hamburg; and from Java to Amsterdam and
Rotterdam. It is said that a movement, fostered by Belgium and Brazil,
is under way to have Antwerp succeed Hamburg as a coffee port.
The rise of Brazil to the place of all-important source of the world's
coffee was entirely a nineteenth century development. When the coffee
tree found its true home in southern Brazil in 1770, it began at once to
spread widely over the area of excellent soil; but there was little
exportation for thirty or forty years. By the middle of the nineteenth
century Brazil was contributing twice as much to the world's commerce as
her nearest competitor, the Dutch East Indies, exports in 1852-53 being
2,353,563 bags from Brazil and 1,190,543 bags from the Dutch East
Indies. The world's total that year was 4,567,000 bags, so that
Brazilian coffee represented about one-half of the total. This
proportion was roughly maintained during the latter half of the
nineteenth century, but has gradually increased since then to its
present three-fourths.
[Illustration: PRE-WAR AVERAGE ANNUAL IMPORTS OF COFFEE INTO THE UNITED
STATES BY CONTINENTS
Fiscal years: 1910-1914
Total pounds: 899,339,327]
The most important single event in the history of Brazilian production
was the carrying out of the valorization scheme, by which the State of
São Paulo, in 1906 and 1907, purchased 8,474,623 bags of coffee, and
stored it in Santos, in New York, and in certain European ports, in
order to stabilize the price in the face of very heavy production. At
the same time, a law was passed limiting the exports to 10,000,000 bags
per year. This law has since been repealed. The story of valorization is
told more fully in chapter XXXI. The coffee thus purchased by the state
was placed in the hands of an international committee, which fed it into
the world's markets at the rate of several hundred thousand bags a year.
Good prices were realized for all coffee sold; and the plan was
successful, not only financially, but in the achievement of its main
object, the prevention of the ruin of planters through overproduction.
[Illustration: PRE-WAR AVERAGE ANNUAL IMPORTS OF COFFEE INTO THE UNITED
STATES BY COUNTRIES
Fiscal years: 1910-1914
Total pounds: 899,339,327]
Another valorization campaign was launched by Brazil in 1918, and a
third in 1921. Early in 1918, the São Paulo government bought about
3,000,000 bags. Subsequent events caused a sharp advance in prices, and
at one time it was said that the holdings showed a profit of
$60,000,000. The Brazil federal government appointed an official
director of valorization, Count Alexandre Siciliano. A federal loan of
£9,000,000, with 4,535,000 bags of valorized coffee as collateral, was
placed in London and New York in May, 1922.
European consumption during the last century has been marked by the
growth of imports into France and Germany; these being the two leading
coffee drinkers of the world, aside from the United States. Germany held
the lead in European consumption during the whole of the nineteenth
century, and also in this century until all imports were stopped by the
Allied navies; although, in actual imports, Holland for many years
showed higher figures. Both Holland and England have acted as
distributers, re-exporting each year most of the coffee which entered
their ports. In the last half-century, the chief consumers, in the order
named, have been Germany, France, Holland, Austria-Hungary, and Belgium.
However, with the removal of the duty on coffee in the last-named
country in 1904, imports trebled; and Belgium took third place. The
table at the top of this page shows the general trend of the trade for
the last seventy years.
TREND OF EUROPEAN COFFEE CONSUMPTION FOR SEVENTY YEARS
_Year_ _Germany_ _France_ _Holland_ _Aus.-Hung._ _Belgium_
(pounds) (pounds) (pounds) (pounds) (pounds)
1853 104,049,000 48,095,000 46,162,000 44,716,000 41,270,000
1863 146,969,000 87,524,000 30,299,000 44,966,000 39,305,000
1873 215,822,000 98,841,000 79,562,000 71,111,000 49,874,000
1883 251,706,000 150,468,000 130,380,000 74,145,000 62,846,000
1893 269,381,000 152,203,000 75,562,000 79,438,000 52,046,000
1903 403,070,000 246,122,000 78,328,000 104,200,000 51,859,000
1913 369,347,000 254,102,000 116,749,000 130,951,000 93,250,000
Most of the coffee for these countries has for many years been supplied
by Brazil, even Holland bringing in several times as much from Brazil as
from the Dutch East Indies. Special features of the European trade have
been the organization, in 1873, and successful operation, in Germany, of
the world's first international syndicate to control the coffee trade;
and the opening of coffee exchanges in Havre in 1882, in Amsterdam and
Hamburg, in 1887: in Antwerp, London, and Rotterdam, in 1890; and in
Trieste in 1905.
The advance of coffee consumption in the United States, the chief
coffee-consuming country in the world, has taken place through about the
same period as the advance of production in Brazil, the chief producing
country; but it has been far less rapid. From 1790 to 1800, coffee
imports for consumption ranged from 3,500,000 to 32,000,000 pounds. The
figures in the next column show the net importations of coffee into this
country since the beginning of the nineteenth century.
The chief source of supply, of course, has been Brazil; and the
commercial and economic ties created by this immense coffee traffic has
knit the two countries closely together. Brazil is probably more
friendly to the United States than any other South American country, as
shown by her action in following this country into the World War against
Germany. She also grants the United States certain tariff preferentials
as a recognition of the continued policy of this country of admitting
coffee free of duty. The chief port of entry of coffee into the United
States is New York, which for decades has recorded entries amounting
from sixty to ninety percent of the country's total. Since 1902, New
Orleans has shown a big advance, and in 1910 imported some thirty-five
percent of the total. The only other port of importance is San
Francisco, where imports have been increasing in recent years because of
the growth of the trade in Central American coffee.
COFFEE IMPORTS, UNITED STATES, FOR 120 YEARS
_Net Imports_
Year Pounds Year Pounds
1800[x] 8,792,472 1906 804,808,594
1811[x] 19,801,230 1907 935,678,412
1821[x] 11,886,063 1908 850,982,919
1830[x] 38,363,687 1909 1,006,975,047
1840[x] 86,297,761 1910 813,442,972
1850 129,791,466 1911 869,489,902
1860 182,049,527 1912 880,838,776
1870 231,173,574 1913 859,166,618
1880 440,128,838 1914 991,953,821
1890 490,161,900 1915 1,051,716,023
1900 748,800,771 1916 1,131,730,672
1901 809,036,029 1917 1,267,975,290
1902 1,056,541,637 1918 1,083,480,622
1903 867,385,063 1919 968,297,668
1904 960,878,977 1920 1,364,252,073
1905 991,160,207 1921 1,309,010,452
[x] Fiscal year ending Sept. 30; all other years end June 30.
Throughout the century and a third of steady increase of importations of
coffee, Congress has for the most part permitted its free entry; as a
rule, resorting to taxation of "the poor man's breakfast cup" only when
in need of revenue for war purposes. At times, the free entry has been
qualified; but for the most part, coffee has been free from the burden
of customs tariff.
The country's coffee trade before the Civil War was without special
incident; but since that time, the continued growth has brought about
manipulations that have often resulted in highly dramatic crises;
organizations to exercise some sort of regulation in the trade; the
development of a trade in substitutes; the advance of the sale of
branded package coffee; the institution of large advertising campaigns;
and other interesting features. These are treated more in detail in
chapters that follow.
[Illustration: PRE-WAR CHART OF COFFEE IMPORTS
Quantity and value of net imports of coffee into the United States for
the fiscal years 1851 to 1914 in five-year averages. Solid line
represents quantity, figures in million pounds on left side. Dotted line
represents value, figures in million dollars on right side]
_Coffee Drinking in the United States_
Is the United States using more coffee than formerly, allowing for the
increase in population? Of course there are sporadic increases, in
particular years and groups of years, and they may indicate to the
casual observer that our coffee drinking is mounting rapidly. And then
there is the steadily growing import figure, double what it was within
the memory of a man still young.
[Illustration: PRE-WAR CONSUMPTION AND PRICE CHART
Import price and per capita consumption of coffee in the United States
for the fiscal years 1851 to 1914, in five-year averages. Solid line
represents import price per pound. Dotted line represents per capita
consumption]
But the apparent growth in any given year is a matter of comparison with
a nearby year, and there are declines as well as jumps; and, as for the
gradual growth, it must always be remembered that, according to the
Census Bureau, some 1,400,000 more people are born into this country
every year, or enter its ports, than are removed by death or emigration.
At the present rate this increase would account for about 17,000,000
pounds more coffee each year than was consumed in the year before.
The question is: Do Mr. Citizen, or Mrs. Citizen, or the little Citizens
growing up into the coffee-drinking age, pass his or her or their
respective cups along for a second pouring where they used to be
satisfied with one, or do they take a cup in the evening as well as in
the morning, or do they perhaps have it served to them at an afternoon
reception where they used to get something else? In other words, is the
coffee habit becoming more intensive as well as more extensive?
There are plenty of very good reasons why it should have become so in
the last twenty-five or thirty years; for the improvements in
distributing, packing, and preparing coffee have been many and notable.
It is a far cry these days from the times when the housewife snatched a
couple of minutes amid a hundred other kitchen duties to set a pan over
the fire to roast a handful of green coffee beans, and then took two or
three more minutes to pound or grind the crudely roasted product into
coarse granules for boiling.
For a good many years, the keenest wits of the coffee merchants, not
only of the United States but of Europe as well, have been at work to
refine the beverage as it comes to the consumer's cup; and their success
has been striking. Now the consumer can have his favorite brand not only
roasted but packed air-tight to preserve its flavor; and made up,
moreover, of growths brought from the four corners of the earth and
blended to suit the most exacting taste. He can buy it already ground,
or he can have it in the form of a soluble powder; he can even get it
with the caffein element ninety-nine percent removed. It is preserved
for his use in paper or tin or fiber boxes, with wrappings whose
attractive designs seem to add something in themselves to the quality.
Instead of the old coffee pot, black with long service, he has modern
shining percolators and filtration devices; with a new one coming out
every little while, to challenge even these. Last but not least, he is
being educated to make it properly--tuition free.
It would be surprising, with these and dozens of other refinements, if a
far better average cup of coffee were not produced than was served forty
years ago, and if the coffee drinker did not show his appreciation by
coming back for more.
As a matter of fact, the figures show that he does come back for more.
We do not refer to the figures of the last two years, which indeed are
higher than those for many preceding years, but to the only averages
that are of much significance in this connection; namely, those for
periods of years going back half a century or more. Five-year averages
back to the Civil War show increasing per capita consumption for
continental United States (see table).
FIVE-YEAR PER CAPITA CONSUMPTION FIGURES
_Five-year Per capita Five-year Per capita
Period Pounds Period Pounds_
1867-71 6.38 1897-1901 10.52
1872-76 7.03 1902-06 11.50
1877-81 7.53 1907-11 10.21
1882-86 9.09 1912-16 10.02
1887-91 8.07 1917-21 11.39
1892-96 8.63
It will be seen that the gain has been a decided one, fairly steady, but
not exactly uniform. In the fifty years, John Doe has not quite come to
the point where he hands up his cup for a second helping and keeps a
meaningful silence. Instead, he stipulates, "Don't fill it quite full;
fill it about five-sixths as full as it was before." That is a
substantial gain, and one that the next fifty years can hardly be
expected to duplicate, in spite of the efforts of our coffee
advertisers, our inventors, and our vigorous importers and roasters.
The most striking feature of this fifty-year growth was the big step
upward in 1897, when the per capita rose two pounds over the year before
and established an average that has been pretty well maintained since.
Something of the sort may have taken place again in 1920, when there was
a three-pound jump over the year before. It will be interesting to see
whether this is merely a jump or a permanent rise; whether our coffee
trade has climbed to a hilltop or a plateau.
In this connection it should be noted that the government's per capita
coffee figures apply only to continental United States, and that in
computing them all the various items of trade of the non-contiguous
possessions (not counting the Philippines, whose statistics are kept
entirely separate from those of the United States proper) are carefully
taken into account.
But for the benefit of students of coffee figures it should be added
that this method does not result in a final figure except for one year
in ten. The reason is that between censuses the population of the
country is determined only by estimates; and these estimates (by the
U.S. Bureau of the Census) are based on the average increase in the
preceding census decade. The increase between 1910 and 1920, for
instance, is divided by 120, the number of months in the period, and
this average monthly increase is assumed to be the same as that of the
current year and of other years following 1920. Until new figures are
obtained in 1930, the monthly increase will continue to be estimated at
the same rate as the increase from 1910 to 1920, or about 118,000. This
figure will be used in computing the per capita coffee consumption. But
when the 1930 figures are in, it may be found that the estimates were
too low or too high, and the per capita figures for all intervening
years will accordingly be subject to revision. This will not amount to
much, probably five-hundredths of a pound at most; but it is evident
that between 1920 and 1930 all per capita consumption figures issued by
the government are to be considered as provisional to that extent at
least.
In the 1920 _Statistical Abstract_ the government has revised its per
capita coffee and tea figures to conform to actual instead of estimated
population figures between 1910 and 1920, with the result that these
figures are slightly different from those published in previous editions
of the _Abstract_. Figures from 1890 to 1910 have also been slightly
changed, as they were originally computed by using population figures as
of June 1, whereas it is desirable to have computations based on July 1
estimates to make them conform to present per capita figures.
_Reviewing the 1921 Trade in the United States_
According to the latest available foreign trade summaries issued by the
government, the United States bought more coffee in 1921 than in any
previous calendar year of our history, although the total imports did
not quite reach the highest fiscal-year mark. Our purchases passed the
1920 mark by more than 40,000,000 pounds and were higher than those of
two years ago by 3,500,000 pounds.
But this record was made only in actual amounts shipped, as the value of
imported coffee was far below that of immediately preceding years.
Coffee values, however, fell off less than the average values for all
imports, the decrease for coffee being forty-three percent and for the
country's total imports fifty-two percent.
Exports of coffee were somewhat less in quantity than in 1920, and about
the same as in 1919; although the value, like that of imports, was
considerably less than in either previous year.
Re-exports of foreign coffee were considerably below the 1920 mark, in
both quantity and value, and indeed were less than in several years. The
amount of tea re-exported to foreign countries was only about half that
shipped out in 1920, showing a continuation of the tendency of the
United States to discontinue its services as a middleman, which raised
the through traffic in tea several million pounds during the dislocation
of shipping.
Actual figures of amounts and values of gross coffee imports for the
three calendar years, 1919-1921, have been as follows:
_Pounds_ _Value_
1921 1,340,979,776 $142,808,719
1920 1,297,439,310 252,450,651
1919 1,337,564,067 261,270,106
This represents a gain of three and three-tenths percent over 1920 in
quantity and of only about one-fifth of one percent over 1919. The
decrease in value in 1921 was forty-three percent from the figures for
1920 and forty-five percent from those of 1919.
Domestic exports of coffee, mostly from Hawaii and Porto Rico, amounted
to 34,572,967 pounds valued at $5,895,606, as compared with 36,757,443
pounds valued at $9,803,574 in the calendar year 1920, or a decrease of
six percent in quantity and forty percent in value. In 1919 domestic
exports were 34,351,554 pounds, having a value of $8,816,581,
practically the same in quantity, but showing a falling off of
thirty-three percent in value.
Re-exports of foreign coffee amounted to 36,804,684 pounds in 1921,
having a value of $3,911,847, a decline of twenty-five percent from the
49,144,691 pounds of 1920 and of fifty-four percent from the 81,129,691
pounds of 1919; whereas in point of value there was a decrease of
fifty-six percent from 1920, which was $9,037,882, and of eighty-eight
percent from that of 1919, which was $16,815,468.
The average value per pound of the imported coffee, according to these
figures, works out at little more than half that of either 1920 or 1919,
illustrating the precipitate drop of prices when the depression came on.
The pound value in 1921 was 10.6c.; for 1920, 19.4c.; and for 1919,
19.5c. These values are derived from the valuations placed on shipments
at the point of export, the "foreign valuation" for which the much
discussed "American valuation" is proposed as a substitute. They
accordingly do not take into account costs of freight, insurance, etc.
It is interesting to note that the average valuation of 10.6c. a pound
for coffee shipped during the calendar year is a substantial drop from
the 13.12c. a pound that was the average for the fiscal year 1921,
showing that the decline in values continued during the last half of the
calendar year.
Coffee imports in 1921 continued to run in about the same well-worn
channels as in previous years, according to the figures showing the
trade with the producing countries. The United States, as heretofore,
drew almost its whole supply from its neighbors on this side of the
globe; the countries to the south furnishing ninety-seven percent of the
total entering our ports. The three chief countries of South America
contributed eighty-five percent; and the share of Brazil alone was
sixty-two and five-tenths percent.
Brazil's progress to her normal pre-war position in our coffee trade is
rather slow, although she continues to show a gain in percentage each
year. Formerly we obtained seventy percent to seventy-five percent of
our coffee from that country; but war conditions, diverting nearly all
of Central America's production to our ports, reduced the proportion to
almost half. In 1919 this had risen to fifty-nine percent, in 1920 it
was somewhat over sixty percent, and in 1921 it attained a mark of
sixty-two and five-tenths percent. The actual amount shipped, which was
839,212,388 pounds having a value of $77,186,271, was about seven
percent higher than in 1920, which was 785,810,689 pounds valued at
$148,793,593; and about the same percent higher than that of
1919--787,312,293 pounds valued at $160,038,196. Although the actual
poundage showed an increase, it will be noted that the value fell off
almost one-half as compared with 1920, and more than one-half as
compared with the year before.
The real feature of the year, and perhaps the most interesting
development in the coffee trade of this country in recent years, is the
steady advance of Colombian coffee.
In the year before the war, we obtained from our nearest South American
neighbor 87,176,477 pounds of coffee valued at $11,381,675, which was
about ten percent of our total imports. In 1919, the first year after
the war, this amount was almost doubled, being 150,483,853 pounds with a
value of $30,425,162. In 1920, there was a further increase to
194,682,616 pounds valued at $41,557,669, and in 1921 the high mark of
249,123,356 pounds valued at $37,322,305 was reached. This was a gain of
twenty-eight percent over 1920 shipments; and, although the value was
less than in the year before, the decrease was only ten percent in a
year when the average fall in value was forty-three percent.
It will be news to many people interested in the coffee trade that the
value of Colombian coffee now imported into the United States is almost
half the value of the Brazilian coffee--$37,000,000 as compared with
$77,000,000. The number of pounds imported is a little less than
one-third the Brazilian contribution; but at the present rate of
increase, it will pass the half mark in a few years.
Colombia and Venezuela together now supply considerably more than half
as much coffee as Brazil in value, and more than one-third as much in
quantity. The average value of Colombian coffee in 1921 was about
fifteen cents a pound, as compared with eleven cents for Venezuelan,
nine cents for Brazilian, ten cents for Central American, and ten and
six-tenths cents for total coffee imports.
Shipments from Venezuela showed a drop in quantity of nine percent as
compared with 1920 imports, being 59,783,303 pounds valued at
$6,798,709; in 1920 they were 65,970,954 pounds valued at $13,802,995;
and in 1919, they were 109,777,831 pounds valued at $23,163,071.
The figures relating to imports from Central America are of interest as
showing to what extent we are continuing to hold the trade of the war
years, when nearly all coffee shipped from that region came to the
United States. Although there has probably been a considerable swing
back to the trade with Europe, the 1921 figures show that a large
percent of the trade that this country gained during the war is being
retained. Imports in 1921 were considerably lower than in 1920 or in
1919, but were still more than three times as heavy as in 1913, the last
year of normal trade.
The displacement of Central America's trade by the war, and the extent
to which it has so far returned to old channels, are illustrated in the
table of Imports into the United States from Central America in the last
nine years on page 301.
As Germany was very prominent in pre-war trade, it is likely that more
and more coffee will be diverted from the United States as German
imports gradually increase to their old level.
IMPORTS INTO THE UNITED STATES FROM
CENTRAL AMERICA
_Year_ _Pounds_ _Value_
1913 36,326,440 $4,635,359
1914 44,896,856 5,465,893
1915 71,361,288 8,093,532
1916 111,259,125 12,775,921
1917 148,031,640 15,751,761
1918 195,259,628 19,234,198
1919 131,638,695 19,375,179
1920 159,204,341 30,388,567
1921 118,607,382 12,308,250
Imports from Mexico in 1921 were greater by thirty-eight percent than in
1920, but were less than in 1919, and were still much below the normal
trade before the war. The total was 26,895,034 pounds having a value of
$3,475,122, as compared with 19,519,865 pounds valued at $3,873,217 in
the year before, and with 29,567,469 pounds valued at $5,434,884 in
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