All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1869. A wool concern engaged him as buyer, and for about six years he
15606 words | Chapter 162
covered the territory between the Rockies and the Pacific, buying wool.
On one of these trips he was in a stage-coach wreck in Oregon and nearly
lost his life. He received injuries affecting his back from which he
never fully recovered, and which caused the stooped posture which marked
his carriage through life thereafter. When he recovered, he came to New
York seeking employment, and obtained a clerical position with L.
Strauss & Sons, importers of crockery and glassware. In 1880, married
Josephine Chabert, whose father kept a restaurant in Park Place.
Sielcken had learned Spanish in Costa Rica, and this knowledge aided him
to a place with W.H. Crossman & Bro. (W.H. and George W. Crossman)
merchandise commission merchants in Broad Street. He was sent to South
America to solicit consignments for the Crossmans, and was surprisingly
successful. For six or eight months every South American mail brought
orders to the house. Then, as the story goes, his reports suddenly
ceased. Weeks and months passed, and the firm heard nothing from him.
The Crossmans speculated concerning his fate. It was thought he might
have caught a fever and died. It was almost impossible to trace him; at
the same time it distressed them to lose so promising a representative.
Giving up all hope of hearing from him again, they began to look around
for some one to take his place. Then, one morning, he walked into the
office and said, "How do you do?" just as if he had left them only the
evening before. The members of the firm questioned him eagerly. He
answered some of their questions; but most of them he did not. Then he
laid a package on the table.
[Illustration: HERMANN SIELCKEN]
"Gentlemen", he said, "I have given a large amount of business to you,
far more than you expected, as the result of my trip. I have a lot more
business which I can give to you. It's all in black and white in the
papers in this package. I think any person who has worked as hard as I
have, and so well, deserves a partnership in this firm. If you want
these orders, you may have them. They represent a big profit to you.
Good work deserves proper reward. Look these papers over, and then tell
me if you want me to continue with you as a member of this firm."
After the Crossmans had looked those papers over they had no doubt of
the advisability of taking Sielcken into partnership. He was admitted as
a junior in 1881-82 and became a full partner in 1885. For more than
twenty years Hermann Sielcken was the human dynamo that pushed the firm
forward into a place of world prominence. He was the best informed man
on coffee in two continents; and when, in 1904, the firm name was
changed to Crossman & Sielcken--W.H. Crossman having died ten years
before--he was well prepared to assert his rights as king of the trade.
He proved his kingship by his masterful handling of valorization three
years later.
Sielcken was many times credited with working "corners" in coffee; but
he would never admit that a corner was possible in anything that came
out of the ground; and to the end, he was insistent in his denials of
ever having cornered coffee. As a daring trader, he won his spurs in a
sensational tilt with the Arbuckles in the bull campaign of 1887.
Because of this, he became one of the most feared and hated men in the
Coffee Exchange. For a while, coffee did not offer enough play for his
tremendous energy and ambition. He embarked in various
enterprises--among them, the steel industry and railroads. No one was
too big for Sielcken to cross lances with. He bested John W. Gates in a
titanic fight, in American Steel and Wire. He quarreled with E.H.
Harriman and George J. Gould over the possession of the Kansas City,
Pittsburgh, and Gulf Railroad, now known as the Kansas City Southern,
and, backed by a syndicate of Hollanders, obtained control.
While still busy with the Kansas City Southern enterprise Sielcken began
work on the coffee valorization scheme that he carried to a successful
conclusion in spite of the law of supply and demand and the interference
of the Congress of the United States. Valorization by the São Paulo
government, and by coffee merchants, having proved a failure; Sielcken
showed how it could be done with all the American coffee merchants
eliminated--except himself. In this way, he secured for himself the
opportunity he had long been seeking--the chance to bestride the coffee
trade like a colossus. The story is told farther along in this chapter.
When his partner, George W. Crossman, died in 1913, it was discovered
that the two men had a remarkable contract. Each had made a will giving
one million dollars to the other. Then Sielcken bought his late
partner's interest in the firm for $5,166,991.
His first wife having died at Mariahalden, his home in Baden-Baden,
seven years before, Sielcken married at Tessin, Germany, in 1913, Mrs.
Clara Wendroth, a widow with two children, and the daughter of the late
Paul Isenberg, a wealthy sugar planter of the Hawaiian Islands. At that
time the coffee king was dividing his time between the Waldorf-Astoria,
New York, which he called his American home, and his wonderful estate in
the fatherland. This latter was a two-hundred-acre private park
containing four villas and a marvelous bath-house for guests besides the
main villa; a rose-garden in which were cultivated one hundred
sixty-eight varieties on some twenty thousand bushes; a special
greenhouse for orchids; and landscaped grounds calling for the service
of six professional gardeners and forty assistants. Here he delighted to
entertain his friends. Frequently, there were fifteen to twenty of them
for dinner on the garden terrace; and, as the moon came up through the
tall hemlocks and shone through the majestic pines brought from Oregon,
a full military band from Heidelberg, adown the hillside among the rose
trees, mingled its music with the dinner discussions. There was nothing
at that dinner table but peace and harmony, although every language in
Europe was spoken; for Sielcken knew them all from his youth. Sometimes
he entertained his guests with stories of his California life, and
sometimes with those of shipwrecks in South America.
All the post-telegraph boys in Baden knew every foot of the sharply
winding road up the Yburg Strasse to Villa Mariahalden; and the guests
therein have counted more than eighty cables received, and more than
thirty sent in a single day. And those daily cable messages were to and
from all quarters of the globe, and to and from the master, who handled
them all, without even a secretary or typewriter. Nowhere in the entire
establishment was there even an appearance of business, except as the
messages came and went on the highway. Sielcken manifested his greatest
delight in showing his friends his orchids, his roses, his pigeons, his
trout, and his trees.
Like Napoleon, this merchant prince required only five hours sleep. It
was his custom to go to bed at one and to be up at six. Did he wish to
know anything that the cables did not bring him, he jumped into his
eighty-horse-power Mercedes with a party of guests and was off with the
sunrise, down the Rhine Valley, on his way to Paris or Hamburg; and
before one realized that he was gone, he was back again.
In 1913, Sielcken admitted to partnership in his firm two employees of
long service, John S. Sorenson and Thorlief S.B. Nielsen. He went to
Germany in 1914, shortly before the beginning of the World War, and
remained at Mariahalden until he died in 1917. Sielcken never would
believe that war was possible until it had actually started. Up to the
last moment in July, 1914, he was cabling his New York partner that
there would probably be no hostilities. He lost a bet of a thousand
pounds made with a visiting Brazilian friend a few days before war was
declared. The guest believed war inevitable and won. A few days before
Sielcken's death the old firm was dissolved under the Trading with the
Enemy Act, being succeeded by the firm of Sorenson & Nielsen. The former
had been with the business thirty-four years, and the latter thirty-two
years. The alien property custodian took over Sielcken's interest for
the duration of the war.
Rumors in 1915 that the German government was extorting large sums of
money from Sielcken brought denials from his associates here. After the
war, it was confirmed that no such extortions took place.
Sielcken always claimed American citizenship. There was a widely
circulated story, never proved, that he tore up his citizenship papers
in 1912 when the United States government began its suit to force the
sale of coffee stocks held here under the valorization agreement. The
Supreme Court of California in 1921 decided that he _was_ a citizen, and
his interests and those of his widow, amounting to $4,000,000, held by
the alien property custodian, were thereupon released to his heirs. It
appeared in evidence that he took out his citizenship papers in San
Francisco in 1873-74, but lost them in a shipwreck off the coast of
Brazil in 1876. The San Francisco fire destroyed the other records; but
under act of legislature re-establishing them, the citizenship claim was
declared valid.
Hermann Sielcken never liked the title of "coffee king." He was once
asked about this appellation, and turned smartly upon the interviewer.
"Nonsense," he said. "I am no king. I don't like the term, because I
never heard of a 'king' who did not fail."
Sielcken had no use for titles. T.S.B. Nielsen says that at a dinner
party in Germany in 1915 he heard Sielcken explain to a large number of
guests that the United States was the best country because there a man
was appraised at his real value. What he did, and how he lived,
counted--not birth or titles.
While his greatest achievement was, of course, the valorization
enterprise, he played a not unimportant rôle in the Havemeyer-Arbuckle
sugar-trust fight. He aided the late Henry O. Havemeyer to secure
control of the Woolson Spice Co. of Toledo in 1896, so as to enable the
Havemeyer's to retaliate with Lion brand coffee for the Arbuckles'
entrance into the sugar business. The Woolson Spice Co. sold the Lion
brand in the middle west, and the American Coffee Co. sold it in the
east. That was the beginning of a losing price-war that lasted ten
years. At the end, Sielcken took over the Woolson property at a price
considerably lower than originally paid for it. In 1919, the Woolson
Spice Co. brought suit against the Sielcken estate, alleging a loss of
$932,000 on valorization coffee sold to it by Sielcken just after the
federal government began its suit in 1912 to break up the valorization
pool in the United States. The Woolson Spice Co. paid the "market
price", as did the rest of the buyers of valorization coffee; but it was
charged that Sielcken, as managing partner of Crossman & Sielcken, sold
the coffee to the Woolson Spice Co., of which he was president, "at
artificially enhanced prices and in quantities far in excess of its
legitimate needs, concealing his knowledge that before the plaintiff
could use the coffee, the price would decline." Sielcken collected for
the coffee sold $3,218,666.
When the United States government crossed lances with Sielcken in 1912
over the valorization scheme, it looked for a time as if he would be
unhorsed. But men and governments were all the same to Sielcken; and at
the end of the fight it was discovered that not only was he
undefeated--for the government never pressed its suit to conclusion--but
that his prestige as king and master mind of the coffee trade had gained
immeasurably by the adventure.
Hermann Sielcken typified German efficiency raised to the nth power. He
was a colossus of commerce with the military alertness of a Bismarck.
His mental processes were profound, and his vision was far-reaching. He
was a resourceful trader, an austere friend, a shrewd and uncompromising
foe. Physically, he was a big man with a bull neck and black, piercing
eyes. His policy in coffee was one of blood and iron. He brooked no
interference with his plans, and he was ruthless in his methods of
dealing with men and governments. Usually silent and uncommunicative,
occasionally he exploded under stress; and when he did so, there was no
mincing of words. He knew no fear. Newspaper criticism annoyed him but
little; and he had a kind of contempt for the fourth estate as a whole,
although he knew how to use it when it suited his purpose. He avoided
the limelight, and never courted publicity for himself. Socially he was
a princely host; but few knew him intimately, except perhaps in his
native Germany.
Sielcken's widow was married in New York, February 11, 1922, to Joseph
M. Schwartz, the Russian baritone of the Chicago Opera Company.
_The Story of John Arbuckle_
John Arbuckle, for nearly fifty years the honored dean of the American
coffee trade, pioneer package-coffee man, some time coffee king, sugar
merchant, philanthropist, and typical American, came from fine, rugged
Scotch stock. He was the son of a well-to-do Scottish woolen-mill owner
in Allegheny, Pa., where he was born, July 11, 1839. He often said he
was raised on skim milk. He received a common school education in
Pittsburgh and Allegheny. He and Henry Phipps, the coke and steel head,
are said to have occupied adjoining desks in one of the public schools,
Andrew Carnegie being at that time in another grade of the same school.
He had a strong bent for science and machinery; and, although he chose
the coffee instead of the steel business for his career, the basis of
his success was invention. He also attended Washington and Jefferson
College at Washington, Pennsylvania.[348]
The Arbuckle business was founded at Pittsburg, in 1859, when Charles
Arbuckle, his uncle Duncan McDonald, and their friend William Roseburg,
organized the wholesale grocery firm of McDonald & Arbuckle. One year
later John Arbuckle, the younger brother of Charles Arbuckle, was
admitted to the firm, and the firm name was changed to McDonald &
Arbuckles. McDonald and Roseburg retired from the firm a few years
later, leaving the business in the hands of the two youthful, hopeful,
and energetic brothers, who under the firm name of Arbuckles & Co., soon
made their firm one of the important wholesale grocery houses in
Pennsylvania. Although little thinking at the time that their greatest
success was to be achieved in coffee, and that a new idea of one of the
partners--that of marketing roasted coffee in original packages--would
make their name familiar in every hamlet in the country, yet the first
two entries in the original day-book of McDonald & Arbuckles record
purchases of coffee.
Prior to the sixties, coffee was not generally sold roasted or ground,
ready for the coffee pot. Except in the big cities, most housewives
bought their coffee green, and roasted it in their kitchen stoves as
needed. John Arbuckle, having become impressed with the wasteful methods
and unsatisfactory results of this kitchen roasting, had already begun
his studies of roasting and packaging problems, studies that he never
gave up. How, first to roast coffee scientifically, and then to preserve
its freshness in the interval between the roaster and the coffee pot,
continued to be an absorbing study until his death. The range of his
work may be illustrated by reference to his first and his last patents.
In 1868, he patented a process of glazing coffee, which had for its
object the preservation of the flavor and aroma of coffee by sealing the
pores of the coffee bean. Thirty-five years later, he patented a huge
coffee roaster in which, more closely than in any other roaster, he felt
he could approach his ideal of roasting coffee--that ideal being to hold
the coffee beans in suspension in superheated air during the entire
roasting process, and not to allow them to come in contact with a heated
iron surface.
By 1865, John Arbuckle had satisfied himself that a carefully roasted
coffee, packed while still warm in small individual containers, would
measurably overcome the objections to selling loose coffee in a roasted
state. So in that year (1865), although not without the misgivings of
his elder brother, and even in the face of the ridicule of competitors,
who derided the plan of selling roasted coffee "in little paper bags
like peanuts", Arbuckles & Co. introduced the new idea, namely, roasted
coffee in original packages. The story of the development of that simple
idea, which soon spread from coast to coast, and of how it laid the
foundations of a great fortune, is one of the romances of American
business.
Although Osborn's Celebrated Prepared Java Coffee, a ground-coffee
package, first put on the New York market by Lewis A. Osborn, and later
exploited by Thomas Reid in the early sixties, appears to have been the
original package coffee, much of the fame attached to the name of
Arbuckle comes from its association with the Ariosa coffee package,
which was the first successful national brand of package coffee. It was
launched in 1873. The Ariosa premium list (premiums have been a feature
of the Arbuckle business since 1895) includes a hundred articles. Almost
anything from a pair of suspenders or a toothbrush, to clocks, wringers,
and corsets may be obtained in exchange for Ariosa coupons.
The common belief that the name Ariosa was made up from the words Rio
and Santos (said to be the component parts of the original blend) is
erroneous. It was arbitrarily coined, though it is not known what
considerations prompted it. One story has it that the "A" stands for
Arbuckle, the "rio" for Rio, and the "sa" for South America.
Early in the seventies, the great business opportunities of New York
City had attracted the two brothers, and a branch was established in New
York in charge of John Arbuckle, the main business in Pittsburg being
left in the care of his brother Charles. The growth of the New York
branch soon made it necessary for Charles Arbuckle to leave the
Pittsburg business in charge of trusted employees, and to come to New
York. In time, the coffee business of the New York house overshadowed
the grocery lines; and the latter were abandoned there, so that the
entire energy of the firm in New York might be devoted to the coffee
business, which thenceforth was operated under the firm name of Arbuckle
Bros. The Arbuckle coffee business, which began with a single roaster in
1865, had eighty-five machines running in Pittsburg and New York in
1881.
Charles Arbuckle died in 1891, and John Arbuckle admitted as partners
his nephew, William Arbuckle Jamison, and two employees, William V.R.
Smith and James N. Jarvie, the business continuing under the former name
of Arbuckle Bros. The most important step taken by the firm while thus
constituted was its entrance into the sugar refining business in 1896.
That entrance had to be forced against the bitterest opposition of a
so-called sugar trust, and brought on a "war" signalized by the most
ruthless cutting of prices of both coffee and sugar. This war was costly
to both sides; but when it had ended, Arbuckle Bros. remained unshaken
in the preeminence of their package-coffee business and had acquired
also great publicity and a fine trade in refined sugar.
[Illustration: JOHN ARBUCKLE]
Arbuckles were always large consumers of sugar in connection with their
coffee glaze, and having introduced the package sugar idea with their
customers some years before, they at last made up their minds to refine
for their own needs and thus to save the profits paid to "the
Havemeyers". It is generally conceded that John Arbuckle's shrewdness
and business sagacity in having previously acquired the Smyser patents
on a weighing and packing machine, and his control of it, really led to
the coffee-sugar war. "This packing machine", said the _Spice Mill_,
when Henry E. Smyser died in 1899, "puts him [Smyser] with the greatest
inventors of our day."
The sugar trust met the Arbuckle challenge by invading the
coffee-roasting field. This they accomplished by securing a controlling
interest for $2,000,000 in one of the largest competing roasting plants
in the country, that of the Woolson Spice Co., of Toledo, Ohio, that had
in the Lion brand, a ready-made package coffee wherewith to fight
Ariosa. The re-organization of the Woolson Spice Co. in 1897, when A. M.
Woolson was relieved of the office of president, disclosed, among
others, the names of Hermann Sielcken in close juxtaposition to that of
H.O. Havemeyer on the board of directors. Both men helped to make
coffee-trade history.
The trade found the coffee-sugar war the all-absorbing topic for several
years. Hot debates were held on the question as to whether, on one hand,
the Arbuckles had the right to enter the sugar-refining business and, on
the other, as to whether the sugar-trust had a right to retaliate. The
answer seemed to be "yes" in both instances.
In two years, John Arbuckle's model sugar refinery in Brooklyn was
turning out package sugar at the rate of five thousand barrels a day.
The Woolson Spice Co. was credited with spending unheard-of sums of
money in advertising Lion brand coffee. The eastern newspaper displays
alone exceeded anything ever before attempted in this line. However,
many people are of the opinion that it was a tactical error on the part
of the sugar interests to spend so much money advertising a Rio coffee
in the central and New England states, while John Arbuckle was confining
his activities to the south and the west, where there already existed a
Rio taste among consumers.
The legal fight which the Arbuckles carried on with the Havemeyers for
the control of the sugar business in this celebrated coffee-sugar war is
said to have cost millions on both sides.
Eventually, the Havemeyers were glad to be relieved of their coffee
interests, but John Arbuckle continued to sell both coffee and sugar.
Mr. Arbuckle married Miss Mary Alice Kerr in Pittsburg, in 1868. She
died in 1907. His many charities included boat trips for children,
luxurious farm vacations for tired wage-earners, boat-raising and
life-saving schemes, a low-priced home for working girls and men on an
old full-rigged ship lying off a New York dock, which he called his
"Deep Sea Hotel," and a vacation enterprise for young men and young
women at New Paltz, N.Y., which was known as the "Mary and John Arbuckle
Farm." A magazine for children, called _Sunshine_, was another
benevolent enterprise of his.
When John Arbuckle died at his Brooklyn home, March 27, 1912, he had
been ill only four days. The New York Coffee Exchange closed at two
o'clock the day following, after adopting appropriate resolutions and
appointing a committee to attend the funeral. His estate in New York was
valued at $33,000,000.
W.V.R. Smith and James N. Jarvie retired from the firm in 1906; and John
Arbuckle and his nephew W.A. Jamison continued it as sole owners and
partners until Mr. Arbuckle's death in 1912. Mr. Arbuckle died childless
and a widower, leaving as his only heirs his two sisters, Mrs. Catherine
Arbuckle Jamison and Miss Christina Arbuckle. Mrs. Jamison is the widow
of the late Robert Jamison, who had been a prominent drygoods merchant
in Pittsburg. William A. Jamison is her eldest and only living son.
Following the death of John Arbuckle, a new partnership was formed in
which Mrs. Jamison, Miss Arbuckle, and Mr. Jamison became the partners
and owners, and that partnership, without change of name, continues.
Probably there is no other mercantile establishment of similar size in
the country that is carried on as a partnership, and none which after
more than sixty years is so exclusively owned by members of the
immediate family of its founders.
The Arbuckle business, as it is today, is John Arbuckle's best monument.
All that it is he foresaw; for behind those keen, penetrating eyes,
there was wonderful vision. Simple in his tastes; democratic in his
dress, in his habits and his speech; he was one of the most approachable
of our first captains of industry. Many of the younger generation in the
coffee business have found inspiration in contemplating John Arbuckle's
achievements. As represented in what has been called "the world's
greatest coffee business", these include other package coffees, such as
Yuban, Arbuckle's Breakfast, Arbuckle's Drinksum, and Arbuckle's
Certified Java and Mocha. The pioneer Ariosa brand is still being sold;
although it is interesting to note that the demand for ground Ariosa is
increasing, marking the swing of the pendulum of public taste away from
the original bean package to the so-called "steel-cut," or ground,
coffee package. Will it swing back again, some day? Many coffee men
believe it will. If it does, good old Ariosa, with its coating of sugar
and eggs, will no doubt be on the job to meet it.
Yuban was launched in the fall of 1913. It is a high-grade package
coffee, whereas Ariosa is popular-priced. In addition to the package
coffee business, Arbuckle Bros. have many other activities. They deal in
green coffee as well as roasted coffee in bulk. The wholesale grocery
business in Pittsburg continues under the old name of Arbuckles & Co.;
while in Chicago, Arbuckle Bros. have a branch equipped with a
coffee-roasting-and-packaging plant, also spice-grinding and
extract-manufacturing plants, and do a large business in teas. A branch
in Kansas City distributes the products manufactured in New York and
Chicago. In Brazil, offices are maintained at Rio de Janeiro, Santos,
and Victoria, as Arbuckle & Co. In Mexico, Arbuckle Bros. are
established at Jalapa, with branches at Cordoba and Coatepec. In season,
the warehouses and hulling plants at those points employ as many as 650
hands preparing Mexican coffee for shipment to New York.
Arbuckle Bros. are direct importers of green coffee on a large scale,
and are known also as heavy buyers "on the street." The roasting
capacity of their Brooklyn plant is from 8,000 to 9,000 bags per day.
The cylinder equipment of twenty-four Burns roasters is supplemented by
four "Jumbo" roasters of Arbuckle build, each capable of roasting
thirty-five bags at one time. The Ariosa package business grew from the
smallest beginnings to more than 800,000 packages per day. Individual
brands have not held their lead of late years; but the volume of
package-coffee business is greater than ever. Many jobbers now pack
brands of their own, besides handling the Arbuckle brands.
Distribution of roasted coffees outside Chicago and Kansas City is
accomplished through the medium of more than one hundred stock depots
in as many different cities of the United States.
To operate the world's greatest coffee business is no small undertaking;
and when this is coupled with an important sugar-refining business and a
waterfront warehouse-and-terminal business, plenty of room is needed. So
we find the plant along the Brooklyn waterfront occupying an area of a
dozen city blocks. An idea of the extent and diversity of the activities
of the plant may be gained from a brief reference to the utilities, and
the trades, and even the professions, that are required to make the
wheels go round.
To ship more than one hundred cars of coffee and sugar in a single day
calls for shipping facilities that could be had only by organizing a
railroad and waterfront terminal, known as Jay Street Terminal, equipped
with freight station, locomotives, tugboats, steam lighters, car floats,
and barges. City deliveries of coffee and sugar call for a fleet of
thirty-five large motor trucks that are housed in the firm's own garage
and kept in repair in their own shops. Although motor trucks are fast
replacing the faithful horse; and the time will never come again when
Arbuckle Bros. will boast of their stable of nearly two hundred horses
that were generally acknowledged to be the finest string of draft horses
in the city, some fifty or sixty of their faithful animals still are in
harness; and so the stable, with blacksmith shop, harness shop, and
wagon-repair shops, are serving their respective purposes, though on a
reduced scale. A printing shop vibrates with the whirr of mammoth
printing presses turning out thousands upon thousands of coffee-wrappers
and circulars; and doubtless it will be news to many that the first
three-color printing press ever built was expressly designed and built
for Arbuckle Bros. Then there is a sunny first-aid hospital on top of
the Pearl Street warehouse where a physician is ever ready to relieve
sudden illness and accidental injuries. On the eleventh floor there is a
huge dining room where the Brooklyn clerical forces get their noonday
lunches. This feeding of the inner man (and woman) is matched by the
power-house where twenty-six large steam boilers must be fed their quota
of coal. In the winter months, when Warmth must come for the workers as
well as power for the wheels, the coal consumption runs up as high as
four hundred tons per day.
The barrel factory, with a daily capacity of 6,800 sugar barrels, is
located about a mile away, where barrel staves and heads are received
from the firm's own stave mill in Virginia, made from logs cut on their
own timber lands in Virginia and North Carolina. A more self-contained
plant would be hard to imagine, and so we find that even the last
activity in its operations--that of washing and drying the emptied sugar
bags--is also provided for. That this is "some laundry" goes without
saying, when it is recalled that in the busy sugar season the firm dumps
from eight to ten thousand bags of raw sugar per day, and that these
bags are washed and dried daily as emptied. A huge rotary drier of the
firm's own design does the work of about three miles of clothes lines.
Even after the coffees have been sold and paid for, there still remains
an important task, and that is to redeem the signature coupons which the
consumers cut from the packages and return for premiums. Lest some
regard this as an insignificant phase of the business, it may be stated
that in a single year the premium department has received over one
hundred and eight million coupons calling for more than four million
premiums. These premiums included 818,928 handkerchiefs; 261,000 pairs
of lace curtains; 238,738 shears; and 185,920 Torrey razors. Finger
rings are perennial favorites, and so insistent is the demand for the
rings offered as premiums, that Arbuckle Bros. are regarded as the
largest distributors of finger rings in the world. One of their premium
rings is a wedding ring; and if all the rings of this pattern serve
their intended purpose, it is estimated that the firm has assisted at
eighty thousand weddings in a year.
Turning from the utilities at the plant to the trades and professions
represented, other than the trained sugar and coffee workers, the
following are constantly employed: physicians, chemists, mechanical
engineers, civil engineers, electrical engineers, railroad engineers and
brakemen, steamboat captains and engineers, chauffeurs, teamsters,
wagon-makers, harness-makers, machinists, draughtsmen, blacksmiths,
tinsmiths, coppersmiths, coopers, carpenters, masons, painters,
plumbers, riggers, typesetters and pressmen, and last but not least,
the chef and table waiters.
One of the most remarkable things about the growth of this business
enterprise is that it is not the result of buying out, or consolidating
with, competitors; but has resulted from a steady wholesome growth along
conservative business lines. Consolidations are often desirable and
effective; but when a great business has been built without any such
consolidations, the conclusion is inevitable that somewhere in the
establishment there must have been a corresponding amount of wisdom,
foresight, energy, and honorable business dealing. Those were the things
for which John Arbuckle stood firm, and for which he will always be
remembered.
_Jabez Burns, Inventor, Manufacturer, Writer_
Jabez Burns was a person of real importance to the American coffee trade
from 1864, when he began to manufacture his improved roaster, until his
death, at the age of sixty-two, in 1888. His success depended more on
unusual character than unusual ability, although he was really gifted as
regards mechanical invention. He loved to acquire practical information,
and arrived confidently at common-sense conclusions; and he exercised a
wide and helpful influence, because he liked to give expression to
opinions that he considered sound and useful.
Mr. Burns was born in London in 1826. The family moved soon after to
Dundee, Scotland, and came to New York in 1844. They were people of
small means and independent thinking. The father, William G. Burns, had
been more interested in the Chartist social movement than in any settled
business activity. An uncle, also named Jabez Burns, became a popular
Baptist preacher in London.
The first winter in America found youthful Jabez teaching a country
school at Summit, N.J. Then he began in New York (1844-45) as teamster
for Henry Blair, a prosperous coffee merchant who attended a little
"Disciples" church in lower Sixth Avenue where many Scottish families
congregated. There also Burns met Agnes Brown, daughter of a Paisley
weaver, and married her in 1847. A brave young pair they were, who found
all sorts of odd riches--just as if a fast-growing family could somehow
make up for a slow-growing income. There were hopes, too, that the
contrivances Burns kept inventing might bring wealth; and some extra
money did come from the sale of early patents, including one in 1858 for
the Burns Addometer, a primitive adding machine.
But Mr. Burns had continued regularly in the employ of coffee and spice
firms, and at one time he was bookkeeper for Thomas Reid's Globe Mills.
He advanced slowly, because he lacked real trading talent; but he was
learning all about the handling of goods, from purchase to final
delivery; and when he quit bookkeeping for the old Globe Mills, and
began to build his patent roaster, he could advise clients reliably
about every factory detail.
He was soon looked on as an authority. He wrote some articles for the
_American Grocer_, a series on "Food Adulteration" being reprinted; and
in 1878, he began the quarterly publication of his thirty-two-page
_Spice Mill_, which soon became a monthly, and gained the interested
attention of practically the entire coffee and spice trade.
Through the columns of this paper, in circulars, by letters, and in a
pocket volume called the _Spice Mill Companion_, he distributed
information on coffee, spices, and baking powder, and gave valuable
advice to beginners in the coffee-roasting business. Not a few coffee
roasters were started on the way to fortune by the counsel of Jabez
Burns. He died in New York, September 16, 1888.
Jabez Burns founded the business of Jabez Burns & Sons in 1864,
beginning the manufacture of his patent coffee roaster at 107 Warren
Street, New York. Since then, there have been four removals. In
December, 1908, the business moved to its present uptown location, at
the northwest corner of Eleventh Avenue and Forty-third Street,
occupying a six-story building which was doubled in size in 1917. This
Burns factory has been referred to as "the unique coffee-machinery
workshop", the greatest establishment of its kind in the United States.
Upon the death of its founder the business was continued; first, as the
firm of Jabez Burns & Sons, composed of his sons, Jabez, Robert, and A.
Lincoln Burns; and later, in 1906, incorporated as Jabez Burns & Sons,
Inc., with Robert Burns as president, Jabez Burns as vice-president,
and A. Lincoln Burns as secretary and treasurer. Jabez Burns died August
6, 1908. The present officers are: Robert Burns, president; A. Lincoln
Burns, vice-president; William G. Burns, general manager; and C.H.
Maclachlan, secretary and treasurer.
[Illustration: JABEZ BURNS]
A. Lincoln Burns succeeded his father as editor of the _Spice Mill_.
William H. Ukers was made editor in 1902, and he continued until 1904,
when he left to assume editorial direction of _The Tea and Coffee Trade
Journal_.
_Coffee-Trade Booms and Panics_
In the last fifty years there have been many spectacular attempts to
corner the coffee market in Europe and the United States. The first
notable occurrence of this kind did not originate in the trade itself.
It took place in 1873, and was known as the "Jay Cooke panic", being
brought about by the famous panic of that name in the stock market.
As a result of the Jay Cooke failure, it was impossible to obtain money
from the banks. Hence buyers were forced to keep out of the coffee
market; and as a consequence, the price for Rios dropped from
twenty-four cents to fifteen cents in the course of the trading period
of one day[349].
Another interesting development during that year was of foreign origin.
A coffee syndicate was organized in Europe, financed by the powerful
German Trading Company of Frankfort, with agencies in London, Rotterdam,
Antwerp, and Brazil. For more than eight years this proved to be a
highly successful undertaking, largely controlling the principal
producing and consuming markets.
As far as the American coffee trade is concerned, the first sensational
upheaval took place in 1880-81. This period witnessed the collapse of
the first great coffee trade combination in this country--the so-called
"syndicate", comprising O.G. Kimball, B.G. Arnold, and Bowie Dash,
sometimes known as the "trinity".
The period of high coffee prices, commencing in 1870, had greatly
stimulated production in many Mild-coffee producing countries, as well
as in Brazil, and as a consequence the syndicate found its burden
becoming extremely heavy early in 1880. In January of that year our
visible supply amounted roughly to 767,000 bags. While this was reduced
to about 740,000 bags in July, the latter likewise proved to be
decidedly burdensome, especially as another liberal crop was beginning
to move in producing countries. The excessive volume of supplies was
especially marked, because distributing trade during the summer was
strikingly dull, as the majority of buyers were holding off, in view of
the prospective liberal new crops. At that time Java coffee was a big
item in American markets, whereas Santos was just about beginning to be
a factor.
The syndicate found that it had its hands full supporting the Brazil
grades, and hence had to let the Javas go. As a result, the latter,
which had sold at twenty-four and three-quarters cents in January, 1880,
fell to nineteen and one-half cents in July, to eighteen cents in
November and to sixteen cents in December. As a matter of fact, the
syndicate was practically the only buyer of Brazil coffee during the
fall of 1880; and as a consequence, Rios, which had started the year at
fourteen and one-half to sixteen and one-quarter cents, were down to
twelve and three-quarters cents in December, 1880, and had dropped nine
and one-half cents when the break in the market culminated in June,
1881.
The first whispers of financial troubles growing out of these adverse
conditions were heard in October, 1880; and on the 27th of that month
the first failure was announced--that of C. Risley & Co., with
liabilities placed at $800,000 and assets at $400,000. This firm had
been doing business in the local market for about thirty years. The
efforts of the receivers to dispose of this company's large stock
naturally served to accelerate the decline; and the final impetus came
on December 6, when the New York trade heard of the death, two days
previously, of O.G. Kimball, of Boston, one of the most prominent
merchants there. This precipitated the big crash of December 7, when
B.G. Arnold & Co., the largest New York firm, suspended with estimated
liabilities of $750,000 to $1,000,000. The official statement later
placed the liabilities at $2,157,914, and assets at $1,400,000, of which
$884,198 were secured. Within three days this failure was followed by
the suspension of Bowie Dash & Co., with liabilities estimated at
$1,400,000.
For weeks thereafter there was virtually no market. With all of these
distress holdings pressing for liquidation, buyers, as was natural, were
extremely timid. In the meantime, the import arrivals showed further
enlargement at various southern ports, as well as at New York. Total
arrivals at this port during 1881 were almost 12,400,000 pounds heavier
than for the preceding year. The growing importance of Santos as a
market factor was demonstrated by the fact that shipments from there in
1881 were 1,198,625 bags, compared with about 628,900 bags in 1876-77.
According to the best informed members of the trade at that time, the
losses sustained by the various firms that were forced to the wall
aggregated between $5,000,000 and $7,000,000.
The utterly demoralized conditions prevailing while this collapse was in
progress, and the practical elimination of a market in the true sense of
the word, furnished the principal impetus for the organization of the
New York Coffee Exchange. At that time, the Havre market was the only
one with an exchange. The local body was organized in December, 1881,
and started business in March, 1882.
_The Cable Break of 1884_
The second noteworthy movement, embracing an advance of four to four and
one-half cents and a recession of slightly more than three cents,
covered a period of about eight months shortly after the Exchange was
organized. Various local and out-of-town firms were interested in the
bulge which carried Rio coffee in this market from about seven cents in
July, 1883, up to eleven and one-half cents late in November. By the
middle of December, the price had fallen to nine and one-quarter cents,
the final break to eight and one-quarter cents occurring late in March
of the following year. At that time, there was no direct cable
communication with Brazil; and as a result of a temporary break in the
roundabout service by way of Portugal, the New York and Baltimore agents
of the Brazilian syndicate were unable to put up additional margins in
this market, and their accounts were closed out. This happened on a
Saturday; and by the following Monday, partial cable remittances arrived
and all accounts were settled in full with interest from Saturday to
Monday.
_The Great Boom_
What is generally described as "the great boom" of the coffee trade
occurred in 1886-87, and had its inception in unsatisfactory crop news
from Brazil. The crop of 1887-1888, it was estimated, would be extremely
small; and it turned out to be only 3,033,000 bags. These advices and
low estimates led to the formation of a "bull" clique, comprising
operators in New York, Chicago, New Orleans, Brazil, and Europe, who set
a price of twenty-five cents for December contracts as their goal.
Toward the end of June, 1886, when this campaign started, No. 7 Rio in
New York was worth about seven and one-half cents, with June contracts
on the Exchange quoted at seven and sixty-five hundredths cents. With
Brazilian crop news still more discouraging, the advance thereafter was
almost continuous, and on June 1, 1887, December contracts sold at
twenty-two and one-quarter cents--a new high price record, that was not
exceeded for thirty-two years, when twenty-four and sixty-five
hundredths cents were paid for July contracts in June, 1919. After
reaching twenty-two and one-quarter cents, prices suffered an abrupt
reversal. Ten days later the closing price for December was twenty-one
and four-tenth cents. Then the real crash began. On Saturday, June 11,
the panic started with another claim of cable trouble; and in the short
session, December coffee broke from twenty and fifteen-hundredths to
eighteen and sixty-five hundredths cents, closing at a loss for the day
of 275 points. The first sale of December on Monday was at seventeen and
four-tenths cents, or 125 points lower; and after numerous erratic
variations, the price broke to sixteen cents, a drop of six and
one-quarter cents in less than two weeks. Business on that day was of
enormous volume, in round numbers 412,000 bags; and approximately
$1,500,000 was put up in margins. For the next three days the decline
was temporarily halted, and December, at one time, was up three and
one-quarter cents from the bottom (nineteen and one-quarter cents). On
June 17, another battle commenced, December dropping back to seventeen
cents. Then came a rally to eighteen and one-tenth cents, a drop to
sixteen and one-half cents; another rally to eighteen and one-tenth,
and, on June 24, another break to the previous low level of sixteen
cents for December. This sharp reversal in less than a month was
traceable largely to more favorable news from Brazil, the 1888-89 crop
being estimated at 6,827,000 bags.
Following a rally to nineteen and six-tenths cents during the next month
(July, 1887), the pendulum again swung downward. The climax came with
the culmination of the "European fiasco" of the spring of 1888. Reports
were received that various European coffee firms had failed; and future
contracts in the American market sold as low as nine cents in March.
_A Famous European Bull Campaign_
The next campaign of interest lasted more than two and a half years. In
September, 1891, there was a corner in the local market which forced the
September price up to seventeen and one-quarter cents. George
Kaltenbach, a wealthy speculator living in Paris, combining with three
operators in Havre, Hamburg, and Antwerp, succeeded in breaking the
corner, forcing the price down to ten and eight-tenths cents. They then
changed to the bull side, buying heavily in all markets of the world.
This was continued until early in 1893, bringing the price back to
fifteen cents. Although his associates then returned to the bear side,
Kaltenbach kept on buying; and aided by bad crop reports from Brazil, he
worked the price up as high as seventeen and seven-tenths cents. At one
time it was said that his profits were more than one million dollars.
The collapse of this deal occurred in May, 1893, involving thirty firms
in Hamburg, Havre, and Rotterdam. As Kaltenbach could not keep his large
New York holdings margined, they were thrown on the market, bringing
about a sharp break, and causing the failure of his New York agents,
T.M. Barr & Co.
The present era of large crops began in 1894, Brazil's production for
1894-95 being placed at 6,695,000 bags. Nevertheless, Guzman Blanco, a
former president of Venezuela, then living in Paris, and said to be
worth about $20,000,000, attempted to run a corner in April, 1895. He
bought 200,000 bags of spot coffee in Havre warehouses and accumulated a
big line of futures in various markets. Assisted by reports of cholera
in Rio and some reduction in Brazilian crops, he enjoyed temporary
success, the price of Rio 7s in New York rising to fifteen and one-half
cents in October, 1895. Thereafter, there was an almost continuous
decline. In the spring of 1898, a vigorous bear campaign was conducted,
largely in the form of market letters; and by November, Rio 7s here had
dropped to four and one-half cents.
_The Bubonic Plague Boom_
The so-called "bubonic plague boom" halted this prolonged downward
movement for a time in 1899-1900. The boom derived its name from the
outbreak of bubonic plague in Brazil, as a result of which the ports of
that country were quarantined. In addition, Brazilian steamers arriving
at New York were placed in quarantine; and the impossibility of
unloading their cargoes caused a temporary shortage. As a result, prices
rose from four and one-quarter cents in September, 1899, to eight and
one-quarter cents in July, 1900. The quarantine being lifted, the bears
again became aggressive; and by April, 1901, they had forced the price
back to five cents.
There was another short-lived attempt to establish a corner in
September, 1901. Receipts at Rio and Santos had been running light,
encouraging a local clique embracing Skiddy, Minford & Company; W.H.
Crossman & Bro.; and Gruner & Company, to endeavor to gain control. The
arrivals at Brazilian ports suddenly increased to the largest volume
ever known up to that time; and, with vigorous opposition from operators
in Havre, the corner here was speedily broken.
The opening of the new century witnessed the beginning of another new
coffee era, Santos permanently displacing Rio as the world's largest
source of supply. The figures for 1900-01 were: Santos, 2,945,000 bags;
Rio, 2,413,000 bags.
Huge crops then became a regular thing in Brazil. That of 1901-02 was
far in excess of estimates, being 15,000,000 bags; while 20,000,000 bags
were produced in 1902-03. As a result, the world's coffee trade became
completely demoralized for the time being. In August, 1902, contracts
for July, 1903, delivery sold at six and one-tenths cents. By June,
1903, they had fallen to three and fifty-five hundredths cents, the
lowest price ever recorded for coffee.
_The Southern Boom_
As is invariably the case when prices reach extreme levels, either high
or low, the pendulum swung back rapidly in the other direction. Based on
the unprecedentedly low prices, the so-called "cotton crowd" started
what was generally known as "the southern boom". Various cotton traders
in New York and the South, under the leadership of D.J. Sully, the
one-time "cotton king", and ably assisted by prominent local coffee
firms, became extremely active on the buying side; and by February,
1904, they had forced the price up to eleven and eighty-five hundredths
cents. This figure, the highest since 1896, was reached on February 2,
which proved to be another day of enormous speculative dealings,
involving roundly 462,000 bags. This marked another turning point; the
three succeeding days of record-breaking operations on the Exchange
witnessing a break of roughly two cents. Mr. Sully went on a vacation on
February 3, and the Sielcken interests sold on a large scale. Business
for that day was placed at 555,000 bags, closing prices being about
one-half cent lower. This brought on enormous liquidation by western
bulls on the following day, approximately 500,000 bags. As a result,
prices lost twenty-five to sixty-five points on a turn-over of about
642,000 bags. All records for business were smashed on the following
day, February 5. The official record was 689,000 bags, but trade
estimates made it more than 1,000,000 bags. On that day, southern
interests liquidated heavily, causing net losses of eighty to ninety
points. Doubtless the break would have been more severe had it not been
for buying by the Sielcken people and several other strong interests at
and below seven and one-quarter cents for September contracts.
_The Story of Valorization_
The valorization, or equalization, of coffee originated in Brazil. When
the original plan was threatened with disaster, Hermann Sielcken stepped
in and saved the Brazil planters from ruin; the Brazil government from
possible revolution; and, incidentally, won for himself and those who
were his partners in the enterprise much unenviable notoriety.
The principle of valorization is generally conceded to be economically
unsound, because it encourages overproduction. And valorization in
Brazil would have been a failure, had it not been for a fortuitous
combination of short crops, Hermann Sielcken's genius, and the World
War. Because of the lessons learned in this experience, Brazil's
subsequent valorization enterprises have run more smoothly.
A rapidly increasing world demand, a wonderfully fertile soil, and cheap
labor kept the Brazil coffee industry in a flourishing condition nearly
to the close of 1889. Coffee consumption was increasing, especially in
the United States. By April 1890, the average import price per pound of
Rio No. 7 in this country was nineteen cents; and Brazil was supplying
only about half our needs. Virgin soil was still available in Brazil,
and immigration furnished all the needful labor. Easy profits led to
increased investment and careless methods. Her planters were drunk with
prosperity. For six years, nearly all the three million inhabitants of
São Paulo, Brazil's largest coffee producing state, "entirely gave up
planting corn, rice, beans, everything they needed. They bought them
because coffee was so immensely profitable that they put all their labor
in coffee."
Brazil had been going through a period of low exchange. Paper money fell
below par. The exaggerated issues of it, which provoked the collapse of
exchange, suddenly endowed Brazil with an abundant circulation of money.
Production was enormously stimulated. New undertakings sprang up on
every hand. Armies of agricultural laborers were recruited in Europe and
shipped into the coffee districts. And then, to make the story short,
supply passed demand, surplus stocks began to appear, prices began to
fall, and fell until they dropped below the cost of production.
It was in 1896-97, when the new trees came into bearing by the tens and
hundreds of thousands, that São Paulo's folly began to tell. By October
of that year the price of Rio No. 7 in New York had fallen to about
seven cents. The decline continued, until, in 1903, it hung around five
cents. Then began the winter of São Paulo's discontent. Too late, the
state government tried by taxing new coffee estates, to force the
planters to raise crops to supply their own necessities. The times grew
harder.
Mortgages held by large coffee houses and bankers were being foreclosed.
The industry was passing into European hands. The smaller planters were
becoming desperate; and desperation is only a step from revolution. The
government of the state of São Paulo knew this; and to save the state,
it finally promised it would buy the next coffee crop, and would hold it
for the planters at such a price as would be necessary to continue the
industry. The protagonists of this plan to valorize coffee were Dr.
Jorge Tibiriçá, Dr. Augusto Ramos, and Dr. Albuquerque Lins.
During all the period covering São Paulo's rise and fall in coffee, the
financial genius who was to lead her again into the land of plenty had
been quietly acquiring a knowledge of her problems--also, the ability to
make money out of their solution.
Valorization was undertaken to save the coffee industry. Its intent was
good, even if the theory was bad. The scheme was not new, and there were
no encouraging precedents to augur its success. The situation was
desperate and seemed to justify the trial of a desperate remedy. São
Paulo attempted to carry the load; but her resources were insufficient.
The bumper world crop of 19,090,000 bags in 1901-02 was followed, in
1906-07, with another extraordinary yield of 24,307,000 bags, of which
Brazil alone produced 20,192,000 bags. To make good its promise to the
planters, ready cash was needed; and so the São Paulo government sent a
special commissioner to Europe to get it. For sixty years the
Rothschilds had acted as Brazil's bankers. The commissioner went to the
Rothschilds first. He was flatly refused. After that, he was turned down
by practically every bank on the continent. It looked as if the bankers
had entered into a gentlemen's agreement to make it unanimous. Then the
commissioner bethought himself of the coffee merchants; and that thought
naturally suggested Hermann Sielcken, who, singularly enough, happened
to be conveniently resting at nearby Baden-Baden. In August, 1906, the
commissioner waited upon Mr. Sielcken and begged his aid.
It was Sielcken's hour of triumph. For years he had been soliciting
Brazil. Now the tables were turned, and Brazil was asking favors of
Sielcken.
The rest of the story is best told by Robert Sloss, who wrote it for
_World's Work_ from information furnished by trade authorities--and even
by Mr. Sielcken, himself, in various speeches, newspaper articles, and
on the witness stand. It is presented here with certain minor
corrections by the author:
"Well, what do you want me to do?" asked Hermann Sielcken of the
commissioner from the state of São Paulo.
"We want you to finance for us five to eight million bags of
coffee," said the commissioner blandly.
Here was an adventure. Here was a proposition to lift bodily out of
the market half as much coffee as the world's total production had
averaged for the ten preceding years when prices had been so low.
Presumably, if this were done, prices would be doubled. But Hermann
Sielcken shook his head.
"No," he said, "there is not the slightest chance for it, not the
slightest." And then he pointed out that there would be "no
financial assistance coming from anywhere" if the São Paulo
planters kept on raising such ridiculously large crops of coffee.
The commissioner assured him that the prospect was for smaller
crops in future. Hermann Sielcken was not so sure about it "At a
price low enough," he mused, "I might be able to raise funds to pay
eighty percent on a value of seven cents a pound for Rio No. 5."
The commissioner was dismayed. His government had already promised
to take coffee from the planters at about a cent a pound above the
market, and the market then stood at nearly eight cents. The
government would have to dig to make up the difference. Hermann
Sielcken's terms were the best that could be got, however, and the
commissioner accepted them.
From that time forth Hermann Sielcken was the head of the movement.
He approached a few large coffee merchants, including his former
rivals, Arbuckle Brothers, and drew up a contract. The merchants
agreed to advance eighty percent of the sum required to buy two
million bags of coffee at seven cents a pound. If the market went
above seven cents, the government was to make no purchases. If it
fell below seven cents, the government was to make good the
difference to the merchants by cable.
Before the season was well advanced the unexpected happened. Brazil
was reaping the largest coffee harvest in the history of the world.
The two million bags of coffee purchased by the government were as
a drop in a bucket. Financed by Hermann Sielcken, Schroeder, the
great London banker, and a few prominent European merchants, the
government was forced to buy almost nine million bags. Toward the
end of 1907, the government had lifted half of the world's visible
supply of coffee, but the market stood only a trifle above six
cents a pound. The government was practically bankrupt.
Hermann Sielcken now enlisted the Rothschilds on his side, and
shifted the financial burden from the shoulders of the coffee
merchants to those of the Paris bankers and their American
associates. Then the Rothschilds imposed their conditions on the
government of Brazil. A national law was passed determining a heavy
penalty for any one who planted a new coffee tree in Brazil. The
government guaranteed that not more than mine million bags of the
next coffee crop and not more than ten million bags of any
succeeding crop should be exported.
By the end of 1911, the coffee market stood well above thirteen
cents. Here was a rise of more than one hundred percent in two
years, more than sixty percent in six months. Evidently,
valorization coffee in the hands of the bankers' committee had
become a gilt-edged security. But how?
During the five crop years since the "plan" was launched on the
heights above Baden, nearly 90,000,000 bags of coffee had been
raised in the world. The bankers' committee still held 5,108,000
bags of this. At the highest estimate, consumption had exceeded
production by only 4,000,000 bags. Here was a shortage of only a
little more than ten percent in supply as against demand, so far as
crops go. Yet there had been a rise of more than one hundred
percent in two years in the price of coffee on the New York Coffee
Exchange.... Upon the merchant's ability to deliver coffee on the
New York Coffee Exchange depends the price of coffee in the world.
That explains why the bankers' committee from the beginning refused
absolutely to sell valorization coffee on the public exchanges of
the world. In Europe, they put it up at auction; and when it didn't
go, it was bought in for them. In America, they announced in a
printed circular that valorization coffee would be sold only on
condition that the purchaser would not deliver it on the New York
Coffee Exchange.
Hermann Sielcken absolutely refused to sell coffee to the merchants
on the Exchange. Arbuckle Brothers kept on buying coffee heavily,
as if they would corner the market. They resold the coffee,
however, at private sales, exacting a written contract from the
buyer that he would not deliver the coffee on the New York Coffee
Exchange, or resell it to any one that would so deliver it. The
Coffee Exchange began an investigation, but nothing ever came of
it.
Shortly after the valorization committee had apparently cleared up
$25,000,000 in one year, the restriction as to the delivery of
valorization coffee on the New York Coffee Exchange was officially
removed. Yet neither from Hermann Sielcken nor from Arbuckle
Brothers, it is charged, could one buy any coffee to deliver for
that purpose. In 1911, coffee rose to sixteen cents per pound.
At the end, it was found that the committee's holdings had been marketed
at the various sales on a basis, for Santos 4s, from eight and
five-eighths cents minimum, to the final sale here forced by the United
States government, at which time the price realized was sixteen and
three-quarter cents for Santos 4s, and fourteen cents for Rio 7s.
The one fly in the valorization ointment was Senator G.W. Norris, of
Nebraska, who early in 1911 called for a congressional investigation of
the operations of the valorization syndicate, which he said was costing
the American people $35,000,000 a year. The attorney-general was
instructed to report as to whether or not there was a coffee trust. It
was a leisurely investigation, which encountered many snags placed in
its way by those who believed it would be against international policy
to question too closely the participation of the Brazil government in
the enterprise. Politics played no inconsiderable part in the
investigation, which dragged along until May 18, 1912, when an action
was begun in the Federal District Court for the southern district of New
York, alleging conspiracy in restraint of trade on the part of Hermann
Sielcken; Bruno Schroeder, of J. Henry Schroeder & Co.; Edouard Bunge;
the Vicomte des Touches; Dr. Paulo da Silva Prado; Theodor Wille; the
Société Generale; and the New York Dock Co.; also praying for injunction
and receivership of the valorization coffee then stored in the United
States, and amounting to 746,539 bags. The injunction was denied.
Immediately thereafter, rumors began to circulate that the government's
coffee suit would never be tried. The Brazilian ambassador threatened
diplomatic interference, and Attorney-General Wickersham let it be known
that a friendly settlement might be effected. Sielcken boldly challenged
the authorities to prosecute the case, and even seemed to invite
criminal proceedings against himself. Saving the government's face, and
Brazil's face, at one and the same time, proved to be a long and tedious
process.
Meanwhile, Senator Norris introduced in Congress a bill designed to give
the government power to seize importations of coffee when restraint of
trade was proved. It was vigorously opposed by many prominent
green-coffee men and roasters; but in February, 1913, it became enacted
into a law. It effectively killed all future valorization schemes in so
far as direct participation by this country is concerned.
About December 1, 1912, Attorney-General Wickersham accepted good-faith
assurances from Mr. Sielcken's attorney--who represented also the Brazil
government--and agreed that if the valorization coffee stored here was
sold to bona-fide purchasers before April 1, 1913, the government's suit
would be dismissed. In May, 1913, the attorney-general of the new Wilson
administration, which came into office in March of that year, issued a
statement saying that, good-faith assurances having been received from
the Brazil government that the understanding was fulfilled in letter and
spirit before the date set by the previous attorney-general, and the
entire amount of coffee disposed of to eighty dealers in thirty-three
cities, the suit would be dismissed.
In the United States Senate about the same time, Senator Norris renewed
his attack on "the international coffee trust". He charged that the
coffee sale was not as represented, but merely a transfer, and called
upon the Department of Justice for the facts, with names of the alleged
purchasers.
Attorney-General McReynolds, on May 7, 1913, declined to send to the
Senate the official correspondence in regard to the Brazil
coffee-valorization matter, because it was "incompatible with the public
interests." He did, however, send other papers on the subject. The
secretary of state sent copies of some correspondence; but the documents
were not made public. This ended the matter, although Senator Norris
called for a congressional investigation, charging that the
attorney-general had been handed a "gold brick".
Sielcken contented himself with remarking that the suit was a mistake in
the first place, and that it was a foregone conclusion the government
would be defeated. Also, he offered $5,000 to any one who could explain
the Norris bill.
Valorization, then, was started by the state of São Paulo in 1905, when
a law was passed authorizing the state to enter into an agreement with
the other Brazil states and the federal government for the adoption of
measures which would assure the valorization of coffee and facilitate a
propaganda abroad for increased consumption.
The states of São Paulo, Minãs Geraes, and Rio de Janeiro proposed,
early in 1906, to withdraw from the markets such quantities of coffee as
would keep down exports and maintain profitable prices. The plan
comprehended the interested states borrowing about $75,000,000 from
European and United States bankers with which to buy up the surplus
coffee. To take care of interest and amortization, a tax of three francs
per bag of 132 pounds (about 57 cents) was to be levied on all coffee
exports, collectable at Santos and Rio de Janeiro. Further
coffee-planting was to be checked by enforcing the law which carried a
tax sufficiently high to operate toward restriction.
When it was understood that Brazil's federal government would not
endorse the plan _in toto_, it was abandoned by Rio de Janeiro and Minãs
Geraes. However, the state of São Paulo in the course of the next two
years borrowed some $30,000,00 on its own account for valorization
purposes, obtaining half the amount direct from foreign banking
interests, and the remainder, through the Brazilian federal government,
from London sources.
This first valorization was abandoned in favor of the Sielcken plan,
which the federal government ratified in July, 1908. By this new plan
São Paulo borrowed $75,000,000 from the syndicate composed of American,
English, German, French, and Belgian bankers. Out of this it repaid the
$30,000,000 loan. The 1908 loan was to expire in ten years, in 1919.
Under the plan of the new loan, it was agreed that certain amounts of
the valorized coffee should be stored as collateral in warehouses in
New York and Europe in charge of a committee of seven, who were
authorized to sell the coffee in the market in specified quantities and
at prices that would not disturb the price of other coffees. The
composition of the committee was as follows: Dr. Francisco Ferreira
Ramos, of São Paulo and Antwerp; who was succeeded by Dr. Paulo da Silva
Prado; the Vicomte des Touches, of Havre; the Société Generale, of
Paris; the firm of Theodor Wille, of Hamburg; Hermann Sielcken, of New
York; Edouard Bunge, of Antwerp; and Baron Bruno Schroeder, of J. Henry
Schroeder & Co., of London.
Brazil agreed to purchase 10,000,000 bags and to hold them off the
market until conditions warranted their sale. It was also agreed that
the total exports of unvalorized stocks from Brazil would be restricted
to 10,000,000 bags for 1907-08, and to 10,500,000 bags for 1909-10. In
addition, a surtax of five francs gold per bag (96-1/4 cents) was placed
on every bag exported to pay carrying charges. The management of the
government's holdings was placed in the hands of the international
committee. This committee issued bonds which were quickly subscribed
for; and because of its efficient handling of its huge holdings, prices
held steady in spite of the record-breaking Brazilian crop of nearly
20,192,000 bags in 1906-07, and a later one in 1909-10 of about
15,000,000 bags. Indeed, there was an advance of about ten dollars a bag
between 1904 and 1911.
Valorization had the effect of stabilizing the Brazil market, and giving
the planters and allied interests the assistance they needed to ward off
the disaster that threatened them through overproduction. The United
States government action in 1912 forced the sale of the valorized stocks
held in this country, and the Congress passed the law making it
impossible again to offer for sale in America stocks of coffee held
under similar valorization agreements.
The coffee situation became so serious in 1913, that São Paulo again
entered the money market for another loan, borrowing $37,500,000 through
the good offices of the Brazilian federal government, following this up
two years later with another loan of $21,000,000. According to a
semi-official statement issued in Brazil early in 1919, the status of
valorization at that time was that the first loan of $75,000,000 of
1908, had been entirely liquidated, and the two later loans were greatly
reduced. At the same time, it was announced by the president of the
state of São Paulo that the surtax of five frances would be withdrawn as
soon as the liquidation of the loans had been completed. This surtax,
however, is still in effect. In 1919, the São Paulo government proposed
advancing the _pauta_, or export duty, very materially. A strong protest
was made by all the exporters; and a compromise was at last effected by
which the proposed increase in the _pauta_ was canceled, and the
existing surtax of five francs per bag continued as an offset.
The valorization project just described was the second of its kind, a
former attempt having proved a failure. At that time (1870), the
Brazilian government had been a large purchaser of Rio coffee, buying it
in lieu of exchange, as it had large remittances to make. The coffee was
sold through G. Amsinck & Co., and it is believed that heavy losses were
sustained.
Since the Sielcken valorization enterprise, the Brazilian government has
promoted two more valorizations, one in 1918, another early in 1922.
_War-Time Government Control of Coffee_
The board of managers of the New York Coffee and Sugar Exchange, Inc.,
had realized, late in 1917, that war-time government control of coffee
trading was likely in view of the government's activities in other
commodities. To guard against the danger of a sudden announcement of
such action, the president of the Exchange was empowered from month to
month, at each meeting of the board, to suspend trading at any time that
conditions warranted; so that, when President Wilson announced, on
January 31, 1918, that all dealers in green coffees were to be licensed,
the Exchange was fully prepared. Trading was suspended pending further
information, and owing to the farsightedness of the board of managers,
all danger of a panic in the market was averted.
By 1917, the allies had stopped shipments of coffee to Germany through
neighbors who had been her sole source of supply. Stocks in all the
producing countries were accumulating, and São Paulo had embarked on
another valorization scheme to protect her planters. The markets of
Europe were entirely controlled by the governments; and the United
States was practically the only free and open market. The market here
was steady and without particular animation, and showed none until the
end of November, 1917. At that time, speculation activities, steamer
scarcity, and the steady advance in freights, became decided influences
in the market; and prices began to advance.
Freights on shipments from Brazil had advanced from one dollar and
twenty cents per bag early in the year to unheard-of prices; and, before
the bubble burst, had reached as high as four dollars per bag. With this
steadily advancing freight, speculation in coffee became more active;
and prices naturally began to rise. The relative cheapness of coffee
compared with all other commodities; the fact that coffee here had shown
very little advance; the prospect of an early peace; the large European
demand to follow; were favorite bull arguments. The market became
excited; speculative buying was general, every one, apparently, wanted
to buy coffee; and twenty cents per pound for Santos 4s in the near
future was a common prediction.
The United States food administrator had shown his antipathy to
uncontrolled exchange operations by his action on sugar, wheat, corn,
and other commodities, dealt in on the exchanges; consequently, the
proclamation of President Wilson regarding coffee was not a surprise to
those who had been watching the situation closely, especially as on
January 30, 1918 (the day before the proclamation) the president of the
Coffee Exchange was summoned by telegraph to appear in Washington to
discuss ways for a proper control of the article, and the best means to
bring about such control. As a result of this summons, a committee of
the entire trade, representing the Exchange, the green-coffee dealers
and importers, the roasters, and the brokers, was appointed by the
Exchange to confer with the food administrator at once, in order to work
out a plan whereby the business could be kept going. After a long
conference, rules agreed upon were approved that became the basis on
which business was conducted until the withdrawal of all regulations
regarding coffee in January, 1919. Much trade criticism followed the
publication of some of these rules.
George W. Lawrence, president of the New York Coffee and Sugar Exchange,
was called to Washington on February 28, 1918, to take charge of a newly
created coffee division under Theodore F. Whitmarsh, chief of the
distribution division of the food administration. In this position he
rendered a signal service to the trade and to his country. Although
subjected to a cross-fire of criticism from many green and roasted
coffee interests, he never wavered in the performance of his full duty;
and his good judgment, tact, and loyalty to American ideals, won for him
a high place in the regard of all those who had the best interests of
the country at heart. He was ably assisted in his work by Walter F.
Blake, of Williams, Russell & Company, New York; and by F.T. Nutt, Jr.,
treasurer of the New York Coffee and Sugar Exchange.
A coffee advisory board was appointed in June 1918, to serve as a
go-between for the trade and the food administration. Those who served
on this committee were: Henry Schaefer, of S. Gruner & Co., New York,
chairman; Carl H. Stoffregen, of Steinwender, Stoffregen & Co., New
York, secretary; and William Bayne, Jr., of William Bayne & Co., New
York; S.H. Dorr, of Arnold, Dorr & Co., New York; A. Schierenberg, of
Corn, Schwarz & Co., New York; Leon Israel, of Leon Israel & Bro., New
York; Joseph Purcell, of Hard & Rand, New York; B.F. Peabody, of T.
Barbour Brown & Co., New York; J.D. Pickslay, of Williams, Russell &
Co., New York; Charles L. Meehan, of P.C. Meehan & Co., New York; B.C.
Casanas, of Merchants Coffee Co., New Orleans; John R. Moir, of Chase &
Sanborn, Boston; and B. Meyer, of Stewart, Carnal & Co., New Orleans.
Others in the trade who served the food administration during the period
of the World War were George E. Lichty, president of the Black Hawk
Coffee & Spice Co., Waterloo, Iowa; and Theodore F. Whitmarsh,
vice-president and treasurer of Francis H. Leggett & Co., New York.
The visible supply of coffee for the United States on January 1, 1918,
was 2,887,308 bags. The world's visible supply was given as 10,012,000
bags; but to be added to this were more than 3,000,000 bags held by the
São Paulo government. Thus there was little reason to fear a coffee
shortage. That coffee should be permitted, with this large amount in
view, to run wild as to price, was certainly not the intention of the
food administrator, whose purpose was to keep foods moving to the United
States forces and allies, and as far as possible, to keep reasonable
prices for the United States consumers. Steadily advancing prices of
foods meant increasing cost of labor, general unrest, and a difficult
situation to meet at a period when the situation as a whole was most
critical.
Trouble for the coffee trade was imminent early in 1918, when the
shipping board, backed by experts, decided, or attempted to decide, that
coffee was not a food product; that no vessels could be had for its
transportation; and that it must be put on the list of prohibited or
restricted commodities. Mr. Hoover, however, insisted that coffee was a
very necessary essential, and that tonnage must be provided for an
amount sufficient at all times to keep the visible supply for the United
States up to at least 1,500,000 bags of Brazil coffee; and this figure
was ultimately accepted and carried out by the shipping board.
These figures, based on the deliveries of the two preceding years, and
with dealers limited to ninety days stock in the country, were deemed
ample to care for all requirements. It was figured that by November 1,
1918, the freight situation would be relieved to such an extent by the
new vessels building, that the amount could be increased should it be
found necessary. The food administration, through the war trade board,
offered steamer room to importers of record of the years 1916-17 at
$1.70 per bag. The first few vessels were promptly filled on a basis of
nine and one-quarter to nine and five-eighths cents, c. & f., for Santos
4s, well described. About the same time, our army and navy were able to
buy at eight to eight and three-eighths cents f.o.b. Santos, for
shipment by their own vessels. After the first few vessels offered by
the War Trade Board were filled, the trade became indifferent. The
warehouses in Brazil were loaded with stocks; vessels to carry coffee
were assured buyers at a fixed rate (profits limited); and, as there was
no apparent reason for an advance, buyers were willing to let the
producing countries carry the stock.
The last week in June brought very cold weather in São Paulo, and cables
reported heavy frost. The news was not taken seriously by the trade at
large. "Frost news" from Brazil was no novelty, and in the past had
always been looked upon as a regular and seasonable method of bulling
the market. This year, however, the frost was a fact, and the market
began to move upward with surprising speed. Reports of the damage to the
trees varied from forty to eighty percent. Quotations from Santos
advanced two cents per pound in as many days. United States buyers were
not disposed to follow the advance; offerings of steamer room were
declined; and boats booked for coffee, owing to the lack of cargoes,
were transferred elsewhere. Meanwhile the market continued to advance
rapidly. The allies were holding the enemy, and peace prospects were
brighter. From September 1 to November 15, the records of the food
administration showed very small purchases. The buyers did not believe
in the frost. With the news of the armistice, Brazil markets went wild;
and Santos 4s, which had sold at eight and one-quarter cents in May,
were quoted at twenty and one-half cents by December 10.
The food administration had decided, on February 6, 1918, after
consulting the committee appointed by the Exchange, and on their advice
and recommendation, to permit trading in futures on the following plan:
a fixed maximum price of eight and one-half cents per pound for the spot
month, with a carrying charge not to exceed fifteen points per pound for
delivery for each succeeding month. Thus the price for March delivery
was fixed at eight and one-half cents, while July delivery could be sold
at nine and one-tenths cents; but when July arrived, it became the spot
month, and eight and one-half cents was the maximum at which it could be
sold.
This rule effectively stopped speculation, but failed to work out
satisfactorily to the trade. Experience proved that a maximum fixed
price at which coffee could be traded in would have produced much better
results. Business on the Exchange followed its usual course, and the
customary hedging of purchases was done by dealers. The indifference of
buyers, already referred to, had resulted in a heavy decrease of the
United States visible supply; and it had shrunk to 2,445,000 bags on
September 1; to 2,173,098 bags on October 1; to 1,857,260 bags on
November 1. Included in these amounts were at least 500,000 bags, held
in New York by foreign owners, which could not be sold; and of the
balance left, there was undoubtedly a liberal amount sold against on the
Exchange for future delivery. By October, the situation had become
acute. Dealers who had classified themselves as jobbers or importers had
gone into the retail classification in order to evade the limitations of
profit allowed jobbers, and were limiting their sales to lots of
twenty-five bags or fewer. Dealers who had legitimately hedged their
holdings were unable to buy in.
The Exchange officials showed no disposition to relieve the situation;
and as all prices had reached the maximum price for every month
permitted, the food administration, on November 1, 1918, ordered the
liquidation of all contracts outstanding, bought or sold, by not later
than November 9. This was done; and the coffee covered by such contracts
was released to the trade.
The regulations governing transactions on the Exchange were withdrawn on
December 5, 1918; and, after a long argument, the Exchange decided to
re-open for trading on December 26, 1918. Opening transactions amounted
to 25,000 bags on a basis of seventeen and one-half cents per pound or
nine cents over the prices at which contracts had been liquidated. On
December 28 the price had declined to fifteen and one-half cents. In the
opinion of many of our best merchants, the Exchange should have been
closed during the war, as it failed to be of any real service. That it
was operating at a fixed price for the spot month only, made it of no
value to the trade during this period. Of its loyalty to the government,
and its evident desire to assist there can be no question; but its
cheerful acceptance of the burdens laid upon it proved largely futile.
The action of the food administration in confining the coffee business
solely to licensed dealers and to a fixed profit on actual cost; in
limiting dealers to ninety days stock; and in prohibiting resales, was
the cause of much unjust criticism. The regulations were based on the
general rules of the food administration, and applied to coffee quite as
equitably as did the regulations governing other food commodities under
control and license. As a matter of fact, they were much less rigorous
in some ways than the regulations applying to many other articles. For
example, ninety days stock based on sales for 1916-17 was allowed on
coffee. There was no other article on the food list to which this
liberality was permitted. A forty to sixty days stock would probably be
found to be the maximum permitted to be carried of other food products.
The general proclamation of the food administration of November 1, 1917,
declared:
These general and special rules and regulations are promulgated by
the President to accomplish three principal objects, viz: 1st, to
limit the prices charged by every licensee "to a reasonable amount
over expenses and forbid the acquisition of speculative profits
from a rising market"; 2d, to keep all food commodities moving in
as direct a line as possible and with as little delay as
practicable to the consumer; 3d, to limit as far as practicable
contracts for future delivery and dealing in future contracts.
From the foregoing it will be apparent that a profit to be allowed based
on "market value" for coffees was an impossibility, unless this law had
been altered to allow all licensees of other commodities to share.
Coffee profits were fixed by the food administration on the advice of,
and with acceptance by, the coffee committee. They started too low; and
were made more liberal, when the first figures were shown to be
impossible. George W. Lawrence reports a conversation that he had with
the food administrator on this particular subject, and that was
characteristic of his broadness. Mr. Hoover said, "The coffee dealers
are complaining of the profits permitted them. I want them satisfied;
and if the profits are not reasonable, I shall put them where they will
be. This war is not going to last always; and at its conclusion I want
every American merchant in a position to be able to continue his
business and be no worse off than when the war started."
Resales were prohibited, or limited to one transaction, in order to
prevent an accumulation of profits, that, added to each transfer, would
result ultimately in higher prices to the consumer.
The fixing of profit based on cost, and not on market or replacement
value, is a thing that is impossible in normal times. Carried to the
last degree, it would mean ruination; for no provision is made for
declines in the market, and resulting losses. As a war measure it was
inevitable, and so endured. In normal times it is like trying to make
water run uphill. With a united people, it worked; but one can not have
a World War always to unite the people. It has been said that government
regulation of coffees caused a large increase in price to the consumer.
This would be hard to prove. The trade, generally, that refused to buy
at ten to twelve cents per pound because it did not, or would not
believe the reports of frost damage, and thought prices too high, was
frantically bidding up to twenty and twenty-two cents for 4s in March
and April, 1919. According to the ideas of some enthusiasts, fifty cents
was not an impossibility. Naturally such a bubble must burst eventually.
Government control had nothing to do with such natural conditions as
frost, or as the buyers' indifference. Expansion and inflation were in
the air, and had to run their course. The year 1920 brought the
aftermath; and in the deflation, coffee, with all other commodities,
went down to prices far below its intrinsic value. The expected European
demand did not materialize; the interior buyer was overloaded with
stock; and the losses of the coffee trade in 1920 will, it is to be
hoped, never be repeated.
_The Story of Soluble Coffee_
For nearly two decades, many coffee men and chemists have been seeking a
soluble coffee, or dried coffee extract, that would simplify the
preparation of the beverage. Thus far, all the products that have
appeared on the market are somewhat deficient in aroma and in the more
delicate flavors of coffee. A satisfying average cup of coffee can be
prepared from the better brands; the chief advantages of which are
rapidity of preparation, absence of any grounds, and uniformity of
drink.
Considerable progress has been made in certain directions; enough to
warrant telling here, though briefly, the story of soluble coffee to
date.
Some there are among trade experts and coffee connoisseurs who maintain
soluble coffee is an _ignis fatuus_; that it can never be manufactured
without destroying the aromatic principle; that at best it is a delusion
and a snare. Certainly, many absurd claims have been made for some of
the soluble coffees on the market. However, there are others that are
not without their merits; and the story of their introduction to the
trade and the consuming public is entertaining and instructive.
Dr. Sartori Kato, a Japanese chemist, of Tokio, brought a soluble tea to
Chicago about 1899. It was not a commercial success; but it served to
bring him in touch with some coffee men and chemists, for whom he
produced a soluble coffee in the same year. A company was organized to
promote the product. It was called the Kato Coffee Co., and included, in
addition to Dr. Kato; Fillip Kreissel, a chemist; W.R. Ruffner, a
green-coffee broker; and I.D. Richheimer, a coffee roaster. Kato's
soluble coffee was first sold to the public at the Pan-American
Exposition in 1901. The first quantity order was received from Captain
Baldwin and by him used with satisfaction on the Ziegler Arctic
expedition. United States patents on a coffee concentrate, and process
for making the same (soluble coffee), were granted to Sartori Kato of
Chicago, assignor to the Kato Coffee Co., of the same place, on August
11, 1903.
G. Washington, who was born in Belgium of English parents, and who was
living temporarily in Guatemala City, invented about 1906, a soluble
coffee that was made ready for the market in 1909.
The George Washington Coffee Refining Co. was organized in 1910 to put
the Washington product on the market, which it did first under the name,
Red E coffee. This was later changed to G. Washington's Prepared Coffee,
as an alternative to Washington's Coffee Extract, a name which was
favorably regarded by all except certain authorities at the national
capital. Associated with Mr. Washington at the start of the enterprise
were: E. Van Etten, former vice-president of the New York Central
Railroad; W.J. Arkell; Bartlett Arkell, of the Beechnut Packing Co.;
C.M. Warner, of the Warner Sugar Refining Co.; and Charles E. Proctor,
of the Singer Sewing Machine Co.
The G. Washington Coffee Refining Company has its coffee-roasting and
preparing plant in Brooklyn; but its process is a secret one, and has
never been patented.
F. Lehnhoff Wyld, who was the Washingtons' family physician when they
lived in Guatemala City, and with whom Mr. Washington had discussed his
work in soluble coffee, duplicated the Washington product in 1913; and,
with E.T. Cabarrus, he organized the _Société du Café Soluble Belna_,
Brussels, Belgium, to put on the European market a refined soluble
coffee under the brand name Belna.
Eight or ten United States patents have been granted on soluble coffees
that have never been applied commercially.
Nowhere has soluble coffee met with such success as in the United
States, where a number of brands followed the Kato and G. Washington
products. Among them, mention should be made of the C.F. Blanke Tea &
Coffee Company's Magic Cup, afterward Fairy Cup, and later, Faust brand,
brought out in 1912; the Baker Importing Co.'s Barrington Hall Soluble
Coffee, brought out in 1917; and the Charles G. Hires Co.'s brand,
introduced to the trade in 1918.
It was the World War that brought soluble coffee to the front. E.F.
Holbrook, formerly in charge of the coffee section, subsistence
division, United States War Department, said, "The use of mustard gas by
the Germans made it one of the most important articles of subsistence
used by the army." Early in the war, soluble coffee was added to the
reserve ration, three-quarters of an ounce being considered at first the
proper amount per ration. After trying to put it up in sticks, tablets,
capsules, and other forms, it was determined that the best method was to
pack it in envelopes. A month before the signing of the armistice, the
New York depot was notified that after January 1, 1919, the requirements
of soluble coffee were to be 25,000 pounds per day in addition to
quantities packed in reserve rations, bringing the total daily output to
42,500 pounds per day. Arrangements were made to have the total output
of the New York zone, 40,000 pounds per day, packed in quarter-ounce
envelopes, twenty-four to a sealed can.
I.D. Richheimer, promoter of the original soluble coffee of Kato and the
Kato patent, organized the Soluble Coffee Co. of America in 1918, to
supply soluble coffee to the American army overseas. After the
armistice, the company began licensing other merchants under the Kato
patent or offering to process the merchants' own coffee for them if
desired.
William A. Hamor and Charles W. Trigg, Pittsburgh, assignors to John E.
King, Detroit, were granted a United States patent in 1919 on a process
for making a new soluble coffee. Their process consists in bringing the
volatilized caffeol in contact with a petrolatum, or absorbing medium,
where it is held until needed for combination with the evaporated coffee
extract. The King Coffee Products Corp. of Detroit was organized in 1920
to manufacture this product, known as Minute coffee, and a coffee base
for soft drinks, the latter being marketed under the name of Coffee Pep.
Mr. King had believed for many years that soluble coffee was destined to
solve many of the vexations of the coffee business, and had been
experimenting with the idea since 1906. To facilitate his
investigations, he established a fellowship at the Mellon Institute of
Industrial Research, Pittsburgh, in 1914, in charge of Charles W. Trigg.
This chemically controlled research evolved a product which, after
passing through the laboratory stage, was placed upon a small unit plan
basis, and then patented. Five additional patents on the product were
granted Messrs. Trigg and David S. Pratt in 1921; and all were assigned
to John E. King.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: THE EARLIEST COFFEE MANUSCRIPT, 1587
Pages from the Arabian writing by Abd-al-Kâdir, photographed for this
work in the Bibliothéque Nationale, Paris.]
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