All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1576. He was the first European to mention coffee; and to him also
1475 words | Chapter 46
belongs the honor of being the first to refer to the beverage in print.
Rauwolf was not only a doctor of medicine and a botanist of great
renown, but also official physician to the town of Augsburg. When he
spoke, it was as one having authority. The first printed reference to
coffee appears as _chaube_ in chapter viii of _Rauwolf's Travels_, which
deals with the manners and customs of the city of Aleppo. The exact
passage is reproduced herewith as it appears in the original German
edition of Rauwolf published at Frankfort and Lauingen in 1582-83. The
translation is as follows:
If you have a mind to eat something or to drink other liquors,
there is commonly an open shop near it, where you sit down upon the
ground or carpets and drink together. Among the rest they have a
very good drink, by them called _Chaube_ [coffee] that is almost as
black as ink, and very good in illness, chiefly that of the
stomach; of this they drink in the morning early in open places
before everybody, without any fear or regard, out of _China_ cups,
as hot as they can; they put it often to their lips but drink but
little at a time, and let it go round as they sit.
In this same water they take a fruit called _Bunnu_ which in its
bigness, shape and color is almost like unto a bayberry, with two
thin shells surrounded, which, as they informed me, are brought
from the _Indies_; but as these in themselves are, and have within
them, two yellowish grains in two distinct cells, and besides,
being they agree in their virtue, figure, looks, and name with the
_Bunchum_ of _Avicenna_, and _Bunca_, of _Rasis ad Almans_ exactly;
therefore I take them to be the same, until I am better informed by
the learned. This liquor is very common among them, wherefore there
are a great many of them that sell it, and others that sell the
berries, everywhere in their _Batzars_.
_The Early Days of Coffee in Italy_
It is not easy to determine just when the use of coffee spread from
Constantinople to the western parts of Europe; but it is more than
likely that the Venetians, because of their close proximity to, and
their great trade with, the Levant, were the first acquainted with it.
Prospero Alpini (Alpinus; 1553-1617), a learned physician and botanist
of Padua, journeyed to Egypt in 1580, and brought back news of coffee.
He was the first to print a description of the coffee plant and drink in
his treatise _The Plants of Egypt_, written in Latin, and published in
Venice, 1592. He says:
I have seen this tree at Cairo, it being the same tree that
produces the fruit, so common in Egypt, to which they give the name
_bon_ or _ban_. The Arabians and the Egyptians make a sort of
decoction of it, which they drink instead of wine; and it is sold
in all their public houses, as wine is with us. They call this
drink _caova_. The fruit of which they make it comes from "Arabia
the Happy," and the tree that I saw looks like a spindle tree, but
the leaves are thicker, tougher, and greener. The tree is never
without leaves.
Alpini makes note of the medicinal qualities attributed to the drink by
dwellers in the Orient, and many of these were soon incorporated into
Europe's materia medica.
Johann Vesling (Veslingius; 1598-1649), a German botanist and traveler,
settled in Venice, where he became known as a learned Italian physician.
He edited (1640) a new edition of Alpini's work; but earlier (1638)
published some comments on Alpini's findings, in the course of which he
distinguished certain qualities found in a drink made from the husks
(skins) of the coffee berries from those found in the liquor made from
the beans themselves, which he calls the stones of the coffee fruit. He
says:
Not only in Egypt is coffee in much request, but in almost all the
other provinces of the Turkish Empire. Whence it comes to pass that
it is dear even in the Levant and scarce among the Europeans, who
by that means are deprived of a very wholesome liquor.
From this we may conclude that coffee was not wholly unknown in Europe
at that time. Vesling adds that when he visited Cairo, he found there
two or three thousand coffee houses, and that "some did begin to put
sugar in their coffee to correct the bitterness of it, and others made
sugar-plums of the berries."
_Coffee Baptized by the Pope_
Shortly after coffee reached Rome, according to a much quoted legend, it
was again threatened with religious fanaticism, which almost caused its
excommunication from Christendom. It is related that certain priests
appealed to Pope Clement VIII (1535-1605) to have its use forbidden
among Christians, denouncing it as an invention of Satan. They claimed
that the Evil One, having forbidden his followers, the infidel Moslems,
the use of wine--no doubt because it was sanctified by Christ and used
in the Holy Communion--had given them as a substitute this hellish black
brew of his which they called coffee. For Christians to drink it was to
risk falling into a trap set by Satan for their souls.
[Illustration: AN EIGHTEENTH CENTURY ITALIAN COFFEE HOUSE
After Goldoni, by Zatta]
It is further related that the pope, made curious, desired to inspect
this Devil's drink, and had some brought to him. The aroma of it was so
pleasant and inviting that the pope was tempted to try a cupful. After
drinking it, he exclaimed, "Why, this Satan's drink is so delicious that
it would be a pity to let the infidels have exclusive use of it. We
shall fool Satan by baptizing it, and making it a truly Christian
beverage."
Thus, whatever harmfulness its opponents try to attribute to coffee, the
fact remains (if we are to credit the story) that it has been baptized
and proclaimed unharmful, and a "truly Christian beverage," by his
holiness the pope.
The Venetians had further knowledge of coffee in 1585, when
Gianfrancesco Morosini, city magistrate at Constantinople, reported to
the Senate that the Turks "drink a black water as hot as they can suffer
it, which is the infusion of a bean called _cavee_, which is said to
possess the virtue of stimulating mankind."
Dr. A. Couguet, in an Italian review, asserts that Europe's first cup of
coffee was sipped in Venice, toward the close of the sixteenth century.
He is of the opinion that the first berries were imported by Mocengio,
who was called the _pevere_, because he made a huge fortune trading in
spices and other specialties of the Orient.
In 1615 Pierre (Pietro) Delia Valle (1586-1652), the well known Italian
traveler and author of _Travels in India and Persia_, wrote a letter
from Constantinople to his friend Mario Schipano at Venice:
The Turks have a drink of black color, which during the summer is
very cooling, whereas in the winter it heats and warms the body,
remaining always the same beverage and not changing its substance.
They swallow it hot as it comes from the fire and they drink it in
long draughts, not at dinner time, but as a kind of dainty and
sipped slowly while talking with one's friends. One cannot find any
meetings among them where they drink it not.... With this drink,
which they call _cahue_, they divert themselves in their
conversations.... It is made with the grain or fruit of a certain
tree called _cahue_.... When I return I will bring some with me and
I will impart the knowledge to the Italians.
[Illustration: NOBILITY IN AN EARLY VENETIAN CAFFÈ
From the Grevembroch collection in the Museo Civico]
Della Valle's countrymen, however, were in a fair way to become well
acquainted with the beverage, for already (1615) it had been introduced
into Venice. At first it was used largely for medicinal purposes; and
high prices were charged for it. Vesling says of its use in Europe as a
medicine, "the first step it made from the cabinets of the curious, as
an exotic seed, being into the apothecaries' shops as a drug."
The first coffee house in Italy is said to have been opened in 1645, but
convincing confirmation is lacking. In the beginning, the beverage was
sold with other drinks by lemonade-venders. The Italian word
_aquacedratajo_ means one who sells lemonade and similar refreshments;
also one who sells coffee, chocolate, liquor, etc. Jardin says the
beverage was in general use throughout Italy in 1645. It is certain,
however, that a coffee shop was opened in Venice in 1683 under the
_Procuratie Nuove_. The famous Caffè Florian was opened in Venice by
Floriono Francesconi in 1720.
The first authoritative treatise devoted to coffee only appeared in
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