All about coffee by William H. Ukers

1671. It was written in Latin by Antoine Faustus Nairon (1635-1707),

1472 words  |  Chapter 47

Maronite professor of the Chaldean and Syrian languages in the College of Rome. During the latter part of the seventeenth century and the first half of the eighteenth, the coffee house made great progress in Italy. It is interesting to note that this first European adaptation of the Oriental coffee house was known as a _caffè_. The double _f_ is retained by the Italians to this day, and by some writers is thought to have been taken from _coffea_, without the double _f_ being lost, as in the case of the French and some other Continental forms. To Italy, then, belongs the honor of having given to the Western world the real coffee house, although the French and Austrians greatly improved upon it. It was not long after its beginning that nearly every shop on the Piazza di San Marco in Venice was a _caffè_[41]. Near the Piazza was the Caffè della Ponte dell' Angelo, where in 1792 died the dog Tabacchio, celebrated by Vincenzo Formaleoni in a satirical eulogy that is a parody of the oration of Ubaldo Bregolini upon the death of Angelo Emo. In the Caffè della Spaderia, kept by Marco Ancilloto, some radicals proposed to open a reading-room to encourage the spread of liberal ideas. The inquisitors sent a foot-soldier to notify the proprietor that he should inform the first person entering the room that he was to present himself before their tribunal. The idea was thereupon abandoned. [Illustration: GOLDONI IN A VENETIAN CAFFÈ From a painting by P. Longhi] Among other celebrated coffee houses was the one called Menegazzo, from the name of the rotund proprietor, Menico. This place was much frequented by men of letters; and heated discussions were common there between Angelo Maria Barbaro, Lorenzo da Ponte, and others of their time. The coffee house gradually became the common resort of all classes. In the mornings came the merchants, lawyers, physicians, brokers, workers, and wandering venders; in the afternoons, and until the late hours of the nights, the leisure classes, including the ladies. For the most part, the rooms of the first Italian _caffè_ were low, simple, unadorned, without windows, and only poorly illuminated by tremulous and uncertain lights. Within them, however, joyous throngs passed to and fro, clad in varicolored garments, men and women chatting in groups here and there, and always above the buzz there were to be heard such choice bits of scandal as made worthwhile a visit to the coffee house. Smaller rooms were devoted to gaming. In the "little square" described by Goldoni[42] in his comedy _The Coffee House_, where the combined barber-shop and gambling house was located, Don Marzio, that marvelous type of slanderous old romancer, is shown as one typical of the period, for Goldoni was a satirist. The other characters of the play were also drawn from the types then to be seen every day in the coffee houses on the Piazza. In the square of St. Mark's, in the eighteenth century, under the _Procuratie Vecchie_, were the _caffè_ Re di Francia, Abbondanza, Pitt, l'eroe, Regina d'Ungheria, Orfeo, Redentore, Coraggio-Speranza, Arco Celeste, and Quadri. The last-named was opened in 1775 by Giorgio Quadri of Corfu, who served genuine Turkish coffee for the first time in Venice. Under the _Procuratie Nuove_ were to be found the _caffè_ Angelo Custode, Duca di Toscana, Buon genio-Doge, Imperatore Imperatrice della Russia, Tamerlano, Fontane di Diana, Dame Venete, Aurora Piante d'oro, Arabo-Piastrelle, Pace, Venezia trionfante, and Florian. Probably no coffee house in Europe has acquired so world-wide a celebrity as that kept by Florian, the friend of Canova the sculptor, and the trusted agent and acquaintance of hundreds of persons in and out of the city, who found him a mine of social information and a convenient city directory. Persons leaving Venice left their cards and itineraries with him; and new-comers inquired at Florian's for tidings of those whom they wished to see. "He long concentrated in himself a knowledge more varied and multifarious than that possessed by any individual before or since," says Hazlitt[43], who has given us this delightful pen picture of _caffè_ life in Venice in the eighteenth century: Venetian coffee was said to surpass all others, and the article placed before his visitors by Florian was the best in Venice. Of some of the establishments as they then existed, Molmenti has supplied us with illustrations, in one of which Goldoni the dramatist is represented as a visitor, and a female mendicant is soliciting alms. So cordial was the esteem of the great sculptor Canova for him, that when Florian was overtaken by gout, he made a model of his leg, that the poor fellow might be spared the anguish of fitting himself with boots. The friendship had begun when Canova was entering on his career, and he never forgot the substantial services which had been rendered to him in the hour of need. In later days, the Caffè Florian was under the superintendence of a female chef, and the waitresses used, in the case of certain visitors, to fasten a flower in the button-hole, perhaps allusively to the name. In the Piazza itself girls would do the same thing. A good deal of hospitality is, and has ever been, dispensed at Venice in the cafés and restaurants, which do service for the domestic hearth. There were many other establishments devoted, more especially in the latest period of Venetian independence, to the requirements of those who desired such resorts for purposes of conversation and gossip. These houses were frequented by various classes of patrons--the patrician, the politician, the soldier, the artist, the old and the young--all had their special haunts where the company and the tariff were in accordance with the guests. The upper circles of male society--all above the actually poor--gravitated hither to a man. For the Venetian of all ranks the coffee house was almost the last place visited on departure from the city, and the first visited on his return. His domicile was the residence of his wife and the repository of his possessions; but only on exceptional occasions was it the scene of domestic hospitality, and rare were the instances when the husband and wife might be seen abroad together, and when the former would invite the lady to enter a café or a confectioner's shop to partake of an ice. [Illustration: FLORIAN'S FAMOUS CAFFÈ IN THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO, VENICE, NINETEENTH CENTURY] The Caffè Florian has undergone many changes, but it still survives as one of the favorite _caffè_ in the Piazza San Marco. By 1775 coffee-house history had begun to repeat itself in Venice. Charges of immorality, vice, and corruption, were preferred against the _caffè_; and the Council of Ten in 1775, and again in 1776, directed the Inquisitors of State to eradicate these "social cankers." However, they survived all attempts of the reformers to suppress them. The Caffè Pedrocchi in Padua was another of the early Italian coffee houses that became famous. Antonio Pedrocchi (1776-1852) was a lemonade-vender who, in the hope of attracting the gay youth, the students of his time, bought an old house with the idea of converting the ground floor into a series of attractive rooms. He put all his ready money and all he could borrow into the venture, only to find there were no cellars, indispensable for making ices and beverages on the premises, and that the walls and floors were so old that they crumbled when repairs were started. He was in despair; but, nothing daunted, he decided to have a cellar dug. What was his surprise to find the house was built over the vault of an old church, and that the vault contained considerable treasure. The lucky proprietor found himself free to continue his trade of lemonade-vender and coffee-seller, or to live a life of ease. Being a wise man, he adhered to his original plan; and soon his luxurious rooms became the favorite rendezvous for the smart set of his day. In this period lemonade and coffee frequently went together. The Caffè Pedrocchi is considered one of the finest pieces of architecture erected in Italy in the nineteenth century. It was begun in 1816, opened in 1831, and completed in 1842. Coffee houses were early established in other Italian cities, particularly in Rome, Florence, and Genoa. In 1764, _Il Caffè_, a purely philosophical and literary periodical, made its appearance in Milan, being founded by Count Pietro Verri (1728-97). Its chief editor was Cesare Beccaria. Its object was to counteract the influence and superficiality of the Arcadians. It acquired its title from the fact that Count Verri and his friends were wont to meet at a coffee house in Milan kept by a Greek named Demetrio. It lived only two years. Other periodicals of the same name appeared at later periods. [Illustration]

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. CHAPTER I 3. CHAPTER II 4. CHAPTER III 5. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO WESTERN EUROPE 6. CHAPTER V 7. CHAPTER VI 8. CHAPTER VII 9. CHAPTER VIII 10. CHAPTER IX 11. CHAPTER X 12. CHAPTER XI 13. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO NORTH AMERICA 14. CHAPTER XIII 15. CHAPTER XIV 16. CHAPTER XV 17. CHAPTER XVI 18. CHAPTER XVII 19. CHAPTER XVIII 20. CHAPTER XIX 21. CHAPTER XX 22. CHAPTER XXI 23. CHAPTER XXII 24. CHAPTER XXIII 25. CHAPTER XXIV 26. CHAPTER XXV 27. CHAPTER XXVI 28. CHAPTER XXVII 29. CHAPTER XXVIII 30. CHAPTER XXIX 31. CHAPTER XXX 32. CHAPTER XXXI 33. CHAPTER XXXII 34. CHAPTER XXXIII 35. CHAPTER XXXIV 36. CHAPTER XXXV 37. CHAPTER XXXVI 38. CHAPTER I 39. 3. The foreign forms are unstressed and have no _h_. The original _v_ or 40. CHAPTER II 41. introduction of coffee into Martinique, with particular reference to 42. 1840. In 1852 coffee cultivation was begun in Salvador with plants 43. CHAPTER III 44. 1517. The drink continued its progress through Syria, and was received 45. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO WESTERN EUROPE 46. 1576. He was the first European to mention coffee; and to him also 47. 1671. It was written in Latin by Antoine Faustus Nairon (1635-1707), 48. CHAPTER V 49. introduction to France. 50. CHAPTER VI 51. CHAPTER VII 52. CHAPTER VIII 53. CHAPTER IX 54. CHAPTER X 55. 1665. It was a ten-page pamphlet, and proved to be excellent propaganda 56. 1675. It forbade the coffee houses to operate after January 10, 1676. 57. 1783. Among the most notable members were Johnson, the arbiter of 58. chapter XXXII)] 59. CHAPTER XI 60. 1657. One account says that a decoction, supposed to have been coffee, 61. INTRODUCTION OF COFFEE INTO NORTH AMERICA 62. 1691. Twenty-seven years later, his widow, Mary Gutteridge, petitioned 63. CHAPTER XIII 64. CHAPTER XIV 65. 1700. Watson, in one place in his _Annals_ of the city, says 1700, but 66. 1766. Here, too, for several years the fishermen set up May poles. 67. CHAPTER XV 68. CHAPTER XVI 69. chapter XV, destroyed Ceylon's once prosperous coffee industry. As it 70. 1. under surface of affected leaf, x 1/2; 2, section through same 71. CHAPTER XVII 72. 1750. Fresh chicory[183] contains about 77 percent water, 7.5 gummy 73. 1. _Macroscopic Examination--Tentative_ 74. 2. _Coloring Matters--Tentative_ 75. 3. _Macroscopic Examination--Tentative_ 76. 4. _Preparation of Sample--Official_ 77. 5. _Moisture--Tentative_ 78. 6. _Soluble Solids--Tentative_ 79. 7. _Ash--Official_ 80. 8. _Ash Insoluble in Acid--Official_ 81. 9. _Soluble and Insoluble Ash--Official_ 82. 10. _Alkalinity of the Soluble Ash--Official_ 83. 11. _Soluble Phosphoric Acid in the Ash--Official_ 84. 12. _Insoluble Phosphoric Acid in the Ash--Official_ 85. 13. _Chlorides--Official_ 86. 14. _Caffein--The Fendler and Stüber Method--Tentative_ 87. 15. _Caffein--Power-Chestnut Method--Official_ 88. 16. _Crude Fiber--Official_ 89. 17. _Starch--Tentative_ 90. 18. _Sugars--Tentative_ 91. 19. _Petroleum Ether Extract--Official_ 92. 20. _Total Acidity--Tentative_ 93. 21. _Volatile Acidity--Tentative_ 94. 22. _Protein_ 95. 23. _Ten Percent Extract--McGill Method_ 96. 24. _Caffetannic Acid--Krug's Method_[187] 97. CHAPTER XVIII 98. 114. Her principal food was coffee, of which she took daily as many 99. 3. Typewriting 100. 5. Opposites St. St. St. None 2.5-3 Next 101. 6. Calculation St. St. St. None 2.5 Next 102. 8. Cancellation Ret. ? St. None 3-5 No 103. 9. S-W illusion 0 0 0 104. 13. General health and conditions of 105. CHAPTER XIX 106. CHAPTER XX 107. 1875. The lowest annual production was 20,280,589 pounds in 1818. The 108. 1919. Only 2,200 pounds were produced in 1917. However, the climate and 109. CHAPTER XXI 110. CHAPTER XXII 111. 1723. Seven years later, 472,000 pounds were shipped; and in 1732-33 112. 5. Belgium 11.06 10. France 7.74 113. 1919. The imports in 1913 were more than 40,000,000 pounds, in 1914 more 114. CHAPTER XXIII 115. 1. From Cucuta, it travels thirty-five miles by railroad to Puerto 116. 2. At Puerto Villamizar it is loaded into small, flat-bottomed, steel 117. 3. At Encontrados the cargo is loaded on river steamboats more or less 118. 4. At Maracaibo it is taken by ocean vessel, which either carries it 119. 1919. Seats are now (1922) worth about $6,000. 120. CHAPTER XXIV 121. 1890. Ceylon coffees are classified commercially as "native", 122. CHAPTER XXV 123. CHAPTER XXVI 124. CHAPTER XXVII 125. 1. Charge interest on the net amount of the total investment at the 126. 2. Charge rental on real estate or buildings at a rate equal to 127. 3. Charge, in addition to what is paid for hired help, an amount 128. 4. Charge depreciation on all goods carried over on which a less 129. 5. Charge depreciation on buildings, tools, fixtures, or anything 130. 7. Charge all fixed expenses, such as taxes, insurance, water, 131. 8. Charge all incidental expenses, such as drayage, postage, office 132. 9. Charge losses of every character, including goods stolen, or 133. 12. When it is ascertained what the sum of all the foregoing items 134. 13. Take this percent and deduct it from the price of any article 135. 14. Go over the selling prices of the various articles and see what 136. CHAPTER XXVIII 137. introduction of Ariosa by John Arbuckle in 1873. Some of the early 138. 1. The intrinsic desirability of coffee--the actual pleasure to be 139. 2. That it is delightful medium for social intercourse--part of the 140. 3. That its proper service is a badge of social distinction--the mark of 141. CHAPTER XXIX 142. chapter XXIII, telling how green coffees are bought and sold. 143. 1911. The complete story of the growth of this most important coffee 144. CHAPTER XXX 145. 1919. In 1920, there was a falling off to 137,000,000 pounds, and it may 146. 1902. John Wilde died in 1914. 147. 1848. Among them were: Beard & Cummings. 281 Front Street; Henry B. 148. 1899. The business was incorporated by his children under the same name 149. 1875. Then he was a clerk for Park & Tilford, office man with Arbuckle 150. 1888. James S. Sanborn died in 1903, and Charles E. Sanborn died two 151. 1851. Calvin Durand entered the firm in 1879, and the name was changed 152. 1911. Durand & Kasper merged, 1921, with Henry Horner & Co. and McNeil & 153. 1882. Mr. Blair retired in 1913, and W.S. Rice was elected president. He 154. 1919. O.S.A. Sprague died in 1909, Ezra J. Warner Sr. in 1910, and 155. 1919. Since that time, his son, Jerome J., has carried on the business, 156. 1919. In this year a new corporation, called the Heekin Company, was 157. 1896. The business was incorporated in 1901 as the J.G. Flint Co., with 158. 1878. Henry A. continued the business until 1881, when Francis Widlar 159. 1921. The firm first roasted coffee in 1891. Prior to that time it had 160. 1916. The business is now (1922) carried on by W.E. and Jay E. Tone. 161. CHAPTER XXXI 162. 1869. A wool concern engaged him as buyer, and for about six years he 163. CHAPTER XXXII

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