All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1671. It was written in Latin by Antoine Faustus Nairon (1635-1707),
1472 words | Chapter 47
Maronite professor of the Chaldean and Syrian languages in the College
of Rome.
During the latter part of the seventeenth century and the first half of
the eighteenth, the coffee house made great progress in Italy. It is
interesting to note that this first European adaptation of the Oriental
coffee house was known as a _caffè_. The double _f_ is retained by the
Italians to this day, and by some writers is thought to have been taken
from _coffea_, without the double _f_ being lost, as in the case of the
French and some other Continental forms.
To Italy, then, belongs the honor of having given to the Western world
the real coffee house, although the French and Austrians greatly
improved upon it. It was not long after its beginning that nearly every
shop on the Piazza di San Marco in Venice was a _caffè_[41]. Near the
Piazza was the Caffè della Ponte dell' Angelo, where in 1792 died the
dog Tabacchio, celebrated by Vincenzo Formaleoni in a satirical eulogy
that is a parody of the oration of Ubaldo Bregolini upon the death of
Angelo Emo.
In the Caffè della Spaderia, kept by Marco Ancilloto, some radicals
proposed to open a reading-room to encourage the spread of liberal
ideas. The inquisitors sent a foot-soldier to notify the proprietor that
he should inform the first person entering the room that he was to
present himself before their tribunal. The idea was thereupon abandoned.
[Illustration: GOLDONI IN A VENETIAN CAFFÈ
From a painting by P. Longhi]
Among other celebrated coffee houses was the one called Menegazzo, from
the name of the rotund proprietor, Menico. This place was much
frequented by men of letters; and heated discussions were common there
between Angelo Maria Barbaro, Lorenzo da Ponte, and others of their
time.
The coffee house gradually became the common resort of all classes. In
the mornings came the merchants, lawyers, physicians, brokers, workers,
and wandering venders; in the afternoons, and until the late hours of
the nights, the leisure classes, including the ladies.
For the most part, the rooms of the first Italian _caffè_ were low,
simple, unadorned, without windows, and only poorly illuminated by
tremulous and uncertain lights. Within them, however, joyous throngs
passed to and fro, clad in varicolored garments, men and women chatting
in groups here and there, and always above the buzz there were to be
heard such choice bits of scandal as made worthwhile a visit to the
coffee house. Smaller rooms were devoted to gaming.
In the "little square" described by Goldoni[42] in his comedy _The
Coffee House_, where the combined barber-shop and gambling house was
located, Don Marzio, that marvelous type of slanderous old romancer, is
shown as one typical of the period, for Goldoni was a satirist. The
other characters of the play were also drawn from the types then to be
seen every day in the coffee houses on the Piazza.
In the square of St. Mark's, in the eighteenth century, under the
_Procuratie Vecchie_, were the _caffè_ Re di Francia, Abbondanza, Pitt,
l'eroe, Regina d'Ungheria, Orfeo, Redentore, Coraggio-Speranza, Arco
Celeste, and Quadri. The last-named was opened in 1775 by Giorgio Quadri
of Corfu, who served genuine Turkish coffee for the first time in
Venice.
Under the _Procuratie Nuove_ were to be found the _caffè_ Angelo
Custode, Duca di Toscana, Buon genio-Doge, Imperatore Imperatrice della
Russia, Tamerlano, Fontane di Diana, Dame Venete, Aurora Piante d'oro,
Arabo-Piastrelle, Pace, Venezia trionfante, and Florian.
Probably no coffee house in Europe has acquired so world-wide a
celebrity as that kept by Florian, the friend of Canova the sculptor,
and the trusted agent and acquaintance of hundreds of persons in and out
of the city, who found him a mine of social information and a convenient
city directory. Persons leaving Venice left their cards and itineraries
with him; and new-comers inquired at Florian's for tidings of those whom
they wished to see. "He long concentrated in himself a knowledge more
varied and multifarious than that possessed by any individual before or
since," says Hazlitt[43], who has given us this delightful pen picture
of _caffè_ life in Venice in the eighteenth century:
Venetian coffee was said to surpass all others, and the article
placed before his visitors by Florian was the best in Venice. Of
some of the establishments as they then existed, Molmenti has
supplied us with illustrations, in one of which Goldoni the
dramatist is represented as a visitor, and a female mendicant is
soliciting alms.
So cordial was the esteem of the great sculptor Canova for him,
that when Florian was overtaken by gout, he made a model of his
leg, that the poor fellow might be spared the anguish of fitting
himself with boots. The friendship had begun when Canova was
entering on his career, and he never forgot the substantial
services which had been rendered to him in the hour of need.
In later days, the Caffè Florian was under the superintendence of a
female chef, and the waitresses used, in the case of certain
visitors, to fasten a flower in the button-hole, perhaps allusively
to the name. In the Piazza itself girls would do the same thing. A
good deal of hospitality is, and has ever been, dispensed at Venice
in the cafés and restaurants, which do service for the domestic
hearth.
There were many other establishments devoted, more especially in
the latest period of Venetian independence, to the requirements of
those who desired such resorts for purposes of conversation and
gossip. These houses were frequented by various classes of
patrons--the patrician, the politician, the soldier, the artist,
the old and the young--all had their special haunts where the
company and the tariff were in accordance with the guests. The
upper circles of male society--all above the actually
poor--gravitated hither to a man.
For the Venetian of all ranks the coffee house was almost the last
place visited on departure from the city, and the first visited on
his return. His domicile was the residence of his wife and the
repository of his possessions; but only on exceptional occasions
was it the scene of domestic hospitality, and rare were the
instances when the husband and wife might be seen abroad together,
and when the former would invite the lady to enter a café or a
confectioner's shop to partake of an ice.
[Illustration: FLORIAN'S FAMOUS CAFFÈ IN THE PIAZZA DI SAN MARCO,
VENICE, NINETEENTH CENTURY]
The Caffè Florian has undergone many changes, but it still survives as
one of the favorite _caffè_ in the Piazza San Marco.
By 1775 coffee-house history had begun to repeat itself in Venice.
Charges of immorality, vice, and corruption, were preferred against the
_caffè_; and the Council of Ten in 1775, and again in 1776, directed the
Inquisitors of State to eradicate these "social cankers." However, they
survived all attempts of the reformers to suppress them.
The Caffè Pedrocchi in Padua was another of the early Italian coffee
houses that became famous. Antonio Pedrocchi (1776-1852) was a
lemonade-vender who, in the hope of attracting the gay youth, the
students of his time, bought an old house with the idea of converting
the ground floor into a series of attractive rooms. He put all his ready
money and all he could borrow into the venture, only to find there were
no cellars, indispensable for making ices and beverages on the premises,
and that the walls and floors were so old that they crumbled when
repairs were started.
He was in despair; but, nothing daunted, he decided to have a cellar
dug. What was his surprise to find the house was built over the vault
of an old church, and that the vault contained considerable treasure.
The lucky proprietor found himself free to continue his trade of
lemonade-vender and coffee-seller, or to live a life of ease. Being a
wise man, he adhered to his original plan; and soon his luxurious rooms
became the favorite rendezvous for the smart set of his day. In this
period lemonade and coffee frequently went together. The Caffè Pedrocchi
is considered one of the finest pieces of architecture erected in Italy
in the nineteenth century. It was begun in 1816, opened in 1831, and
completed in 1842.
Coffee houses were early established in other Italian cities,
particularly in Rome, Florence, and Genoa.
In 1764, _Il Caffè_, a purely philosophical and literary periodical,
made its appearance in Milan, being founded by Count Pietro Verri
(1728-97). Its chief editor was Cesare Beccaria. Its object was to
counteract the influence and superficiality of the Arcadians. It
acquired its title from the fact that Count Verri and his friends were
wont to meet at a coffee house in Milan kept by a Greek named Demetrio.
It lived only two years.
Other periodicals of the same name appeared at later periods.
[Illustration]
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