All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1848. Among them were: Beard & Cummings. 281 Front Street; Henry B.
594 words | Chapter 147
Blair, 129 Washington Street; Colgate Gilbert, 93 Fulton Street; Wright
Gillies, 236 Washington Street; and Withington, Wilde & Welch, 7 Dutch
Street. In this year, two coffee importers, fourteen tea importers, and
forty-one tea dealers were listed in the _City Directory_.
The _Directory_ for 1854 listed twenty-seven coffee roasters and spice
factors, among them, in addition to the above, being Peter Haulenbeek,
328 Washington Street; Levi Rowley, 102 West Street; William J. Stitt,
159 Washington Street; and George W. Wright, 79 Front Street. In those
days not all the wholesale coffee factors were roasters; there was much
trade roasting by a few large plants.
While the coffee-roasting business of Samuel Wilde's Sons appears to be
the oldest in New York, having descended in a practically unbroken line
from 1814, several others continued considerably past the half-century
mark, and among them special mention should be accorded to: Levi
Rowley's Star Mills, dating back to 1823; Beard & Cummings, 1834; Wright
Gillies & Bro., 1840; Loudon & Son, the Metropolitan Mills, 1853; and
the Eppens Smith Co., present day successors of Thomas Reid's Globe
Mills of 1855.
The Star Mills in Duane Street became a real factor in the wholesale
coffee-roasting business on Manhattan Island about 1823. At a later
date, Levi Rowley secured control, and under his able direction the
business flourished. Benedict & Gaffney bought the Star Mills from
Rowley in 1885. A few years later the firm became Benedict & Thomas,
then Thomas & Turner, and finally the R.G. Thomas Co. R.G. Thomas sold
the equipment in 1920, ending the manufacturing end of the business just
about a century from the time it started. Mr. Thomas is now with Russell
& Co. Before being identified with the Star Mills, he was for twenty
years with Packard & James, 123 Maiden Lane.
While still a lad of nineteen, Wright Gillies came from a Newburgh farm
in 1838, and obtained a clerkship in a tea store in Chatham Street, now
Chambers and Duane Street. He branched out for himself in the tea and
coffee business at 232 Washington Street in 1840, removing in 1843 to
236, which had a courtyard where he installed a horse-power coffee
roaster. In the same building, over the store, lived Thomas McNell and
his wife. Mr. McNell afterward became a member of the firm of Smith &
McNell, proprietors of the Washington Street hotel and restaurant, for
many years one of New York City's landmarks.
The coffee business, thus started by Wright Gillies, is still conducted,
as the Gillies Coffee Co., by the same family and at practically the
same location; and it is interesting to note that the roasting room
still has the original arrangement, partly below the street level but
with the machinery in view from the sidewalk. This arrangement was
characteristic of the old roasting establishments.
[Illustration: GROUP OF OLD-TIME NEW YORK COFFEE ROASTERS, 1892
Standing, left to right, W.H. Eppens, Fred Reid, unknown, Julius A.
Eppens, Fred Eppens. Seated, left to right, John F. Pupke, Thomas Reid,
Henry Mayo, Fred Akers, Alexander Kirkland]
James W. Gillies, a younger brother, came from Newburgh in 1848 to
assist in the enterprise. Young Gillies superintended the horse-power
roaster and drove the light spring delivery cart. Soon the firm became
Wright Gillies & Bro. Fires visited the business in 1849 and in 1858;
but each time it arose the stronger for the experience. Wright Gillies
retired in 1884, and James W. Gillies assumed entire charge under the
name of the Gillies Coffee Co. He continued active until his death in
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