All about coffee by William H. Ukers
1919. In 1920, there was a falling off to 137,000,000 pounds, and it may
4816 words | Chapter 145
be that the high figure reached the year before represents about the
maximum that her natural market, the Pacific-coast region, can well
absorb.
For the benefit of those who like to do their own interpreting of
figures, we present in the table at the top of this page the official
record for recent years.
The leading importers of Brazil coffee direct to New York and Baltimore
in 1894, as compiled by William H. Force & Co., were as follows.
Included in this list are a number of names well known in the green and
roasted coffee trades of other cities:
DIRECT IMPORTERS OF BRAZIL COFFEE
_New York, 1894_
_Bags_
Arbuckle Bros. 688,726
W.H. Crossman & Bro. 355,864
Hard & Rand. 345,541
W.F. McLaughlin & Co. 227,935
J.W. Doane & Co. 207,170
Steinwender, Stoffregen Co. 132,482
J.L. Phipps & Co. 54,617
Dannemillers & Co. 49,449
E. Levering & Co. 47,322
Aug. Stumpp. 44,959
Thomson & Taylor Spice Co. 44,017
G. Amsinck & Co. 38,350
E.H. & W.J. Peck. 33,278
J.H. Labaree & Co. 32,071
Fitch & Howland. 31,515
Shinkle, Wilson & Kreis Co. 25,951
C.D. Lathrop & Co. 23,263
Taylor & Levering. 21,501
Heinrich Haase. 18,976
William T. Levering. 18,796
T.G. Lurman & Co. 18,017
Elmenhorst & Co. 16,221
Sprague, Warner & Co. 14,856
Sorver, Damon & Co. 14,675
Sutton & Vansant 13,957
John O'Donohue's Sons 13,681
Hoffman, Lee & Co. 13,598
S.R. Alexander 12,805
Eppens, Smith & Wiemann Co. 12,719
Baker & Young 11,906
Hanley & Kinsella C. & S. Co. 11,318
Durand & Kasper Co. 11,124
Wm. Schotten & Co. 11,005
C.G. Bullard & Co. 10,653
H.W. Banks & Co. 10,351
Ellis Bros. 10,282
Jacob Baiz 9,146
A. Lueder & Co. 8,492
C.F. Pitt & Sons 8,262
G.F. Gillman 7,927
Bell, Conrad & Co. 6,528
N. Martin & Co. 6,507
J.B. O'Donohue & Co. 6,102
Steele, Wedeles Co. 5,700
G.O. Gordon 5,550
Sherman Bros. & Co. 4,998
F. MacVeagh & Co. 4,763
Benedict & Co. 4,717
Chase & Sanborn 4,505
West & Melchers 4,500
Mokaska Mfg. Co. 4,013
Haebler & Co. 4,000
Robt. Crooks & Co. 3,509
M.M. Levy & Co. 3,037
J.A. Tolman Co. 3,004
Tracy & Avery Co. 3,000
Wells Bros. 2,800
Kirby, Halsted & Chapin Co. 2,754
W.M. Hoyt Co. 2,252
Gt. A. & P. Tea Co. 2,250
Foote & Knevals 2,000
L.W. Minford & Co. 1,800
Wm. Bayne & Co. 1,755
Indiana Coffee Co. 1,650
W.K. Carson & Co. 1,501
Miller, Smith & Co. 1,500
Rufus Woods 1,498
J.G. Flint 1,345
Davenport & Morris 1,250
Canada 1,140
Westfeldt Bros. 1,000
Edw. Westen T. & S. Co. 800
Corbin, May & Co. 750
F. Cannon & Co. 618
Adam Roth Gro. Co. 500
Scudder, Gale Gro. Co. 500
J.H. Taylor & Co. 500
Wm. B. Willson 500
Dwinell, Wright & Co. 500
Swift, Billings & Co. 500
New Orleans Coffee Co. 500
B. Fischer & Co. 401
Smith & Schipper 300
Ulman, Lewis & Co. 281
Ridenour, Baker Gro. Co. 250
W.H. Minor 250
Nave & McCord Merc. Co. 202
Skiddy, Minford & Co. 196
Rossbach & Bro. 184
L. Wolff 149
Reimers & Meyer 50
W.F. Jackson 5
---------
Total 2,791,642
DIRECT IMPORTERS OF BRAZIL COFFEE
_Baltimore, 1894_
_Bags_
E. Levering & Co. 40,965
T.G. Lurman & Co. 29,325
C.M. Stewart & Co. 25,499
Thornton Rollins 21,436
William T. Levering 15,884
Steinwender, Stoffregen 12,852
W.B. Willson 11,540
Hoffman, Lee & Co. 8,953
Rufus Woods 8,020
P.T. George & Co. 7,463
Taylor & Levering 6,440
Benedict & Co. 5,434
Brazil Trading Co. 2,666
C.F. Pitt & Sons 2,505
J.W. Doane & Co. 2,500
Enterprise Coffee Co. 1,811
H.M. Wagner & Co. 504
C.D. Lathrop & Co. 503
Mokaska Manufacturing Co. 500
Hanley & Kinsella C. & S. Co. 500
Shinkle, Wilson & Kreis Co. 404
G. Amsinck & Co. 400
Indiana Coffee Co. 251
-------
Total 206,355
_Early Days of Green Coffee in New Orleans_
The history of New Orleans as a coffee port may be considered as
beginning with the transfer of Louisiana by Napoleon Bonaparte to the
United States in 1803. In this year, according to Martin's _History of
Louisiana_, New Orleans imported 1438 bags of coffee of 132 pounds each.
In the latter part of the eighteenth century, settlers in large numbers
had crossed the Allegheny Mountains from the Atlantic states into the
valley of the Ohio River; and their crops of grain and provisions were
exported by means of cheaply constructed rafts and boats, which were
floated down the river to New Orleans, where they were generally broken
up and sold for use as lumber and firewood--there being, at that time,
no power available for propelling them back against the current of the
river.
From 1803 until 1820, on account of the difficulty of navigating
upstream, New Orleans imports did not increase as rapidly as exports. In
1814, however, the first crude steamboat had begun to carry freight on
the river; and by 1820, the supremacy of New Orleans as the gateway of
the Mississippi Valley had been for the time established by this new
means of transportation. The coffee-importing business flourished; and,
from its modest beginning in 1803, grew to 531,236 bags in 1857.
By this time, however, New Orleans had begun to feel the competition of
the Erie Canal, and of the systems of east and west railroad lines which
had been in the course of active construction during the preceding
fifteen years. The railroad systems which had as their ports Boston, New
York, Philadelphia, and Baltimore, entered upon a desperate war of
freight rates, each in the endeavor to establish the supremacy of its
own port. As the building of railroads had been entirely east and west,
and no large amount of capital had been invested in north and south
lines, much of the business of the valley was diverted to the Atlantic
ports, apparently never to return to New Orleans.
In 1862, on account of the blockade of the port, not a bag of coffee was
imported through New Orleans, and practically none came in until the
year 1866, when the small amount of 55,000 bags was the total for the
year. At about this time, Boston and Philadelphia became negligible
importing quantities; the business of Baltimore continued to be quite
prosperous; and New York rapidly increased her imports and took the
commanding position.
[Illustration: IN THE NEW ORLEANS COFFEE DISTRICT]
New Orleans had increased her coffee imports to 250,000 bags in 1871,
and the yearly imports continued at about this figure until the last
decade of the century, when the business began to expand. The imports
had reached a total of 337,000 bags in 1893-1894; and of 373,000 in
1896-97. This was the beginning of a new era, and the coffee business of
New Orleans entered upon the period of its greatest growth. Imports were
514,000 bags in 1900-01, and were slightly more than twice that by
1903-04. In 1909-10 the imports had again doubled, and had reached a
total for the twelve months ending July 1, 1909, of slightly more than
2,000,000 bags; while the figures for the calendar year 1909 totaled
2,500,000 bags.
Borino & Bro., 77 Gravier Street, were the largest importers of coffee
in New Orleans in 1869. The principal importers in 1880 were P. Poursine
& Co., Westfeldt Bros., Dymond & Gardes, Schmidt & Ziegler, J.L. Phipps
& Co., Geo. O. Gordon & Co., and Smith Bros.
Shipments were by sailing vessels, a full cargo being about 5000 bags.
Fancy grades, like Golden Rios, washed and peaberries, were shipped in
double bags. Musty coffees were common, and every bag in a cargo was
sampled for must. S. Jackson was first to issue regular manifests. With
the entry of steamers into the coffee transport business, New Orleans
was placed at a disadvantage as steamer rates were about twenty cents a
bag higher to New Orleans than to New York, and imports were limited.
The subsequent revival of the business was due largely to Hard & Rand.
Being unable to obtain steamer rates equal to those quoted in New York,
Hard & Rand chartered steamers for New Orleans; and soon the trade began
to offer cost and freight to New Orleans, and the business grew from
about 350,000 bags of green coffee per annum to 2,500,000 bags.
One of the best remembered names in the green coffee trade of New
Orleans is that of Charles Dittman (1848-1920), who for nearly fifty
years was one of the leading coffee commission merchants of the country.
Mr. Dittman entered the coffee business with Napier & Co., representing
E. Johnston & Co., of Rio de Janeiro. In 1875, upon the death of Mr.
Napier, the firm changed to Johnston, Gordon & Co., later to G.O.
Gordon, and in 1886 to the Charles Dittmann Co. Since his death in
1920, the business has been continued by F.V. Allain and Charles
Dittmann, Jr.
[Illustration: A SECTION OF THE GREEN COFFEE DISTRICT OF NEW ORLEANS
Most of the buildings shown here are occupied by green coffee importing
houses. The one on the right with the balconies is the old Board of
Trade Building]
_Green Coffee in San Francisco_
In the early days of the green coffee business in San Francisco these
names stood out as most important among the coffee importers: Hellmann
Bros. & Co., Montealegre & Co., E.L.G.S. Steele & Co., and Urruella &
Urioste.
From their many friends in Central America, they, and others in their
line, obtained small consignments that were bought by the roasters
according to their immediate needs. Often as many as five or six buyers
would share in a parcel of fifty bags, as they were not in the custom of
filling up the larder for days of want. There always seemed to be
sufficient for every one, and bull movements and corners had not then
become the vogue.
Just as today, the mainstays of the early San Francisco trade were
coffees produced in Costa Rica, Salvador, and Guatemala, although some
were brought from the Colima district of Mexico. The broker had a
comparatively easy job in selling his wares. Samples of the lots would
be given to him in carefully sealed glass bottles, and usually the buyer
would trust his discerning eye to judge correctly the quality of the
goods, not even taking the trouble to uncork the bottle. Size, color,
and imperfections would be his criterion.
The leading coffee importers at San Francisco in 1875 were B.E. Auger &
Co., 409 Battery; S.A. Carit & Co., 405 Front Street; Hellmann Bros. &
Co., 525 Front Street; Adolphe Low & Co., 208 California Street; S.C.
Merrill & Co., 204 California Street; Parrott & Co., 306 California
Street; and Urruella & Urioste, 405 Front Street.
The annual consumption of green coffee in San Francisco in the early
eighties was estimated at 100,000 bags.
A marked change in the coffee business of San Francisco was brought
about by the discovery that the differences in the taste of coffees
could not be accurately detected from their color or from the size of
bean. To Clarence E. Bickford belongs the credit of having discovered
the cup qualities of high-grown Central American coffees. He was
employed at the time by a broker named Hockhofler, and probably did not
realize what far-reaching effect his discovery would have on the future
of San Francisco's coffee trade; but no other factor has contributed so
much to its growth. When the roasters began to examine coffees for their
taste, values were of course revolutionized. Antiguas, and other
high-grown coffees, that had theretofore been penalized for the small
size of bean, soon brought a premium, and have ever since been in great
demand. It goes without saying that the new classification was of
material assistance to the roasters in bettering their output, as
blending was then put on a scientific basis.
About the middle of the nineties San Francisco began to function as a
distributing center, and shipments were made from there to St. Louis and
Cincinnati. The selection of coffees on their cup merit was undoubtedly
a factor of considerable importance in creating new outlets; although it
is generally conceded that the winning personality of C.E. Bickford
helped considerably. Mr. Bickford, by this time, had succeeded his
former employer. He served the trade by living up to the best standards
of business practise until his death in 1908; when the institution he
founded was continued by E.H. O'Brien under the name of C.E. Bickford &
Co.
[Illustration: CALIFORNIA STREET, THE COFFEE-TRADING CENTER OF SAN
FRANCISCO]
San Francisco imported 175,293 bags of coffee in 1900. Imports had grown
to 256,183 bags by 1906; and the following were the leading importers,
as taken from a compilation by C.E. Bickford & Co.:
IMPORTERS OF COFFEE BY SEA
_San Francisco, 1906_
_Bags_
Haas Bros. 38,947
Otis, McAllister & Co. 34,342
Jno. T. Wright 21,741
Geo. A. Moore & Co. 17,851
Castle Bros. 17,397
Lastreto & Co. 15,609
Bloom Bros. 14,372
W.R. Grace & Co. 14,143
Baruch & Co. 9,400
Schwartz Bros. 7,310
Dieckmann & Co. 6,981
H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd. 4,466
M.J. Brandenstein & Co. 4,281
Urioste & Co. 4,081
Goldtree, Liebes & Co. 3,962
J.Z. Posadas. 3,950
Mohns-Frese Com. Co. 3,714
Welch & Co. 3,385
Thannhauser & Co. 3,328
E. Mejia 2,965
Hind, Rolph & Co. 2,814
Hellmann Bros. & Co. 2,170
Parrott & Co. 2,137
J.A. Folger & Co. 2,094
S.L. Jones & Co. 2,042
Ariza & Lombard 1,133
Hamberger-Polhemus Co. 1,096
Theo. H. Davies & Co., Ltd. 955
Livierato Frères 927
J.D. Spreckels & Bros. Co. 828
McCarthy Bros. 795
W. Loaiza & Co. 642
Wm. Halla 591
H.W. Burmester 582
Williams, Dimond & Co. 399
M. Phillips & Co. 381
Alexander & Baldwin 358
London, Paris & Am. Bank, Ltd. 333
P.J. Knudsen Co. 309
Ballou & Cosgrove 300
M. Schweitzer & Co. 300
Johnson-Locke Merc. Co. 270
The Lewin-Meyer Co. 250
Sperry Flour Co. 231
Canadian Bank of Commerce 200
Porto Rico Coffee Co. 148
McChesney & Sons 145
Bowring & Co. 145
China & Java Export Co. 140
John Weissman 126
Montealegre & Co. 120
W.H. Miller 109
Maldonado & Co. 105
De Fremery & Co. 100
Sundries 683
-------
Total 256,183
[Illustration: BIRD'S EYE VIEW OF SAN FRANCISCO'S COFFEE DISTRICT]
The imports of green coffee at San Francisco in 1914-15 amounted to
about 400,000 bags. The beginning of the World War was almost
coincidental with an energetic campaign waged by San Francisco coffee
interests to popularize Central American coffees, and particularly
Guatemalas, in this country. The time was well chosen, as the world's
exposition at San Francisco offered a good opportunity to acquaint the
public with the fine qualities of Guatemala growths. Furthermore, it was
necessary to create new markets for these coffees, which in former years
had been very extensively used in Europe. Figures show that San
Francisco's efforts were crowned with success. In 1916, the importation
increased by fifty percent; and in 1917, importations were double those
of 1915. In 1918, a total of nearly 1,000,000 bags was reached; and this
mark was passed by almost 200,000 in 1919. In 1920, 971,567 bags were
imported.
The origin of San Francisco's fight for control of Central American
coffee dates back to the years 1908 to 1910, when the German Kosmos Line
was fighting the Pacific Mail for the Central and South American
shipping business. W.R. Grace & Co., at that time, were already the
heaviest shippers of American merchandise to the Latin-American
countries; and while their own steamers were not touching at Central
American ports, they were handling merchandise from the United States
and nitrates from the South American countries in their own bottoms, and
were also engaged as general carriers for that trade. The fight directed
by the Kosmos Line against the Pacific Mail, which at that time was
under the control of the Southern Pacific Company, was accordingly
directed against the Grace interests also, so far as South American
countries were concerned. The fight was long and bitter, and costly to
both sides. At times, the contenders offered to take freight, not only
without charge, but to pay the shipper a premium for the privilege of
carrying his freight.
Differences were finally settled in conference; but the experience
taught the American interests that they could survive in any territory
only if at all times they were able to provide their own cargoes for
their own boats, as had been accomplished with nitrate in South America.
J.H. Rosseter, the Grace manager, who later became well known as
director of operations of the United States Shipping Board during the
war, undertook an extended trip to Central America in 1912 to study the
situation at close range. There was only one product of Central America
that was available in cargo quantities, namely coffee; and naturally his
attention was drawn to the possibility of carrying coffee to San
Francisco to provide return cargoes for ships of the Pacific Mail, or
associated lines, carrying merchandise for the Central American
countries.
While in Guatemala, Mr. Rosseter outlined a future policy in regard to
Central American coffees; the basis being his firm determination that
coffees grown in Central America, and logically and geographically
tributary to San Francisco distribution, should come to San Francisco in
largely increasing quantities.
Up to that time San Francisco had received, on an average, only 200,000
bags of Central American coffee annually for the ten preceding years;
while Europe had received about 1,500,000 bags a year. The quantity
necessary to make San Francisco a factor would call for an importation,
on an average, of 750,000 bags--a quantity almost four times as large as
then established.
This was an extremely ambitious undertaking, considering the conditions
then prevailing in Central America. European countries were firmly
entrenched in the coffee business in Central America, with Germany
leading in Guatemala, France in Salvador and Nicaragua, England and
France contending for superiority in Costa Rica, and the United States
getting only the leavings.
The European countries held their position in the Central American
Coffee trade by liberal financing, and a thorough knowledge of the
varying qualities of coffee produced on the different plantations. San
Francisco, the only important port in the United States dealing in
Central American coffees, had neither strong financial entrenchment in
Central America nor expert knowledge of coffee quality. Year after year,
San Francisco merchants had depended on consignments chosen by the
consignors. This rendered quality selection of coffees by the importers
impossible.
Rosseter, being primarily a steamship man, tackled the proposition from
the standpoint of transportation, figuring that if he could establish
and maintain preferential steamer service to San Francisco, and steady
freight rates, a great step would be accomplished toward the desired
end. This led to his interest in the Pacific Mail Company, of which the
final outcome was his present position as vice-president of the
reorganized Pacific Mail Company. In that capacity he maintained,
practically throughout the entire period of the World War, freight rates
on coffee from Central America to San Francisco that gave that Pacific
port an immediate and definite advantage.
This gave merchants in San Francisco the chance to build up a steady
trade, and prevented other ports in the United States from entering into
serious competition with San Francisco as a distributing point for
Central American coffees. The view taken by Rosseter was as far-sighted
as it was broad. He argued that with the end of the war there would be
no strength in a scattering distribution of Central American coffees by
New York, New Orleans, and San Francisco; and the only promise of
maintenance of the business for the United States would be in
maintaining unity of distribution in one port of the United States,
namely San Francisco.
The first year open to European competition after the war showed that
San Francisco was well able to maintain its lead in Central American
coffees. Today, the mortgages formerly held by European merchants on the
native coffee plantations, and the control thereby of the produce of
these plantations, are in the hands of American merchants; and what is
more, out of general merchandising and importing by merchants of San
Francisco there have developed expert coffee departments in all of the
larger houses. The years of the war brought the product of virtually all
plantations in Central America to the intimate knowledge of these expert
coffee departments; and today the advantage that Europe formerly had--of
knowing exactly what a specific plantation produced--is possessed by
San Francisco merchants.
This is no small advantage when we consider that in Guatemala and Costa
Rica, qualities vary from plantation to plantation, and that often on
adjoining plantations there is from three to five cents a pound
difference in quality, from the standpoint of cup merit.
One can not buy coffee in Central America as in Brazil, as these
countries are not highly organized commercially, and the importers here
are forced to assume the rôle of the Brazilian _commisario_ and banker.
The crop has to be financed from six to nine months before it is brought
to the port; and the securities covering such advances are at best of
questionable value, on account of political insecurity, and the
ever-threatening earthquakes, and the uncertainty of the elements.
Distribution of the coffee after it has been brought to San Francisco
also involves many difficulties, notwithstanding that the demand is
good. This will be better realized when we consider that the Pacific
coast, from Alaska to Mexico, and eastward as far as the Rocky
Mountains, embraces a population of about 8,000,000, whose annual
consumption is estimated at 400,000 bags; and that, as already stated,
treble that quantity was imported to San Francisco in 1919.
In 1900, ninety-nine firms were engaged in the green coffee importing
business (some were roasters also) in New York; six in Philadelphia;
twenty-eight in San Francisco; twelve in New Orleans. In 1920, there
were two hundred and sixteen in New York; thirty-one in San Francisco;
fifteen in New Orleans.
_Green Coffee Trade Organizations_
Previous to the organization of the roasters, the only kind of coffee
organization in this country of more than local importance was the New
York Coffee Exchange, which came into existence in 1881, the
organization meeting being held in the offices of B.G. Arnold & Co., at
166 Pearl Street, New York. The Exchange was incorporated December 7,
1881, the incorporators being Benjamin Green Arnold, Francis B. Arnold,
William D. Mackey, John S. Wright, William Sorley, Joseph A. O'Brien, H.
Clay Maddux, C. McCulloch Beecher, Geo. W. Flanders, and John R.
McNulty. B.G. Arnold was the first president. Soon afterward, rooms were
rented and fitted up for trading purposes at 135 Pearl Street, at the
junction of Beaver and Pearl Streets, and only two blocks away from the
more pretentious structure now housing the Coffee Exchange. Actual
trading operations did not begin until March 7, 1882.
The New York Coffee Exchange was the world's first coffee-trade
organization of national proportions. Havre's exchange was inaugurated
in 1882, under the name of the Coffee Terminal Market. Five years later,
coffee exchanges were opened in Amsterdam and Hamburg; while the
exchanges of London, Antwerp, and Rotterdam did not come into existence
until the year 1890. The exchange in Trieste, Italy, was organized in
1905; while the Coffee Trade Association of London was started in 1916.
The first exchange in Santos was started in 1914.
The success of the New York Coffee Exchange led to its imitation in
other coffee ports of the United States. Baltimore started a similar
organization, early in 1883, under the name of the Baltimore Coffee
Exchange; but after a short existence, it petered out. New Orleans
organized a green coffee trading association in 1889, as a coffee
committee of the Board of Trade. It is still active. The Green Coffee
Association of New Orleans, Inc., which is distinct from the Coffee
Committee, was established January 7, 1920. San Francisco did not have a
trading exchange until 1918, in which year the Green Coffee Association
of the San Francisco Chamber of Commerce began operations.
_Growth of the Coffee-Roasting Trade_
The wholesale coffee roasting business in the United States seems to
have started in the closing years of the eighteenth century. In
February, 1790, a "new coffee manufactory" began business at 4 Great
Dock Street, New York, and the proprietor announced that he had provided
himself at considerable expense with the proper utensils "to burn, grind
and classify coffee on the European plan." He sold the freshly roasted
product "in pots of various sizes from one to twenty weight, well packed
down, either for sea or family use so as to keep good for twelve
months."
A second roasting plant started up at 232 Queen Street, New York, nearly
opposite the governor's house, toward the close of 1790. This second
coffee roasting plant was known in 1794 as the City Coffee Works. James
Thompson operated a "coffee manufactory" at 25 Thames Street in 1795. In
this year there was also the "Old Ground Coffee Works" in Pearl Street,
formerly Hanover Square, "three doors below the bank at number 110,"
operating "two mills, one pair French burr stones" but no orders were
accepted here for less than six pounds, at "two pence advanced from the
roasting loss."
Other coffee manufactories followed in the large towns of the new
states; and, always, the coffee was treated "on the European plan." This
meant that it was "burnt over a slow coal fire, making every grain a
copper color and ridding it all of dust and chaff." There was usually a
difference in price of three to four pence a pound between the green and
roasted product. Packages of roasted coffee under the half-dozen weight
were sold in New York in 1791 for two shillings and three pence per
pound, allowance being made for grocers at a distance. In those days,
the favorite container was a narrow-mouthed pot or jar of any size. This
was the first crude coffee package. In retailing the product,
cornucopias made of newspapers, or any other convenient wrapping, were
first employed; but, with the introduction of paper bags in the early
sixties, the housekeeper soon became educated to this more sanitary form
of carry package, and its permanence was quickly assured.
The following were listed in Longworth's _Almanack_ as coffee roasters
in New York in 1805: John Applegate; Cornelius Cooper; Benjamin Cutler,
104 Division Street; George Defendorf, 83 Chapel Street; William Green;
Cornelius Hassey, 14 Augustus Street; Joseph M'Ginley, 28 Moore Street;
John W. Shaw, 43 Oliver Street; John Sweeney, Mulberry Street; Patience
Thompson, 23 Thames Street.
Elijah Withington came from Boston to New York in 1814. He set up a
coffee roaster in an alley behind the City Hall and engaged a big,
raw-boned Irishman to run it. This was the beginning of a coffee
roasting business that has continued until the present day. Withington
dealt in Padang interiors, Jamaica, and West Indian coffees, and
numbered many society folk among his customers. Withington's business
removed to 7 Dutch Street in 1829: and the firm became Withington & Pine
in 1830.
The roasted coffee business in New York had grown to such proportions in
1833 and gave such promise, that James Wild considered it a good
investment to bring over from England for his new coffee manufactory in
New York a complete power machinery equipment for roasting and grinding
coffee. There was also an engine to run it. It was set up in Wooster
Street opposite the present Washington Square.
Samuel Wilde, son of Joseph Wilde, of Dorchester, Mass., came to New
York about 1840 to make his fortune. He was a young man with vision; and
first applied himself with diligence to the hardware and looking-glass
business. When he found that most of his customers were theaters and
saloons, his religious scruples bade him abandon it, which he did.
Meanwhile, in 1844, Withington's pioneer roasting enterprise had
admitted Norman Francis and Amos S. Welch as general partners, and
Samuel and Charles C. Colgate as special partners, under the style of
Withington, Francis & Welch. It so continued until 1848, when Samuel
Wilde--who had selected the coffee business as more honorable than the
one in which he started--was admitted, and the firm became Withington &
Wilde.
Mr. Withington retired in 1851, and Samuel Wilde associated with him in
the business his sons Joseph and Samuel, Jr., the title becoming Samuel
Wilde & Sons. Samuel Wilde, Sr., died in 1862. The title then became
Samuel Wilde's Sons. Joseph Wilde died in 1878, and Samuel Wilde, Jr. in
1890, the business being left to and continuing with a younger brother,
John, from 1878 to 1894, when John's son, Herbert W. Wilde, became a
member of the firm, which continues the old title at 466 Greenwich
Street, as Samuel Wilde's Sons Company, having been incorporated in
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