A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
CHAPTER VII
659 words | Chapter 64
=1. Elementary Preparations=
Before broaching the question of the numerous preparations which
constitute the various soup, relevé, and entrée garnishes, it will be
necessary to give the formulæ of the elementary preparations, or what
are technically called the _mise en place_. If the various operations
which go to make the _mise en place_ were not, at least summarily,
discussed here, I should be compelled to repeat them in each formula
for which they are required—that is to say, in almost every formula. I
should thus resemble those bad operators who, having neglected their
_mise en place_, are obliged to make it in the course of other work,
and thereby not only run the risk of making it badly, but also of
losing valuable time which might be used to better advantage.
Elementary preparations consist of those things whereof one is
constantly in need, which may be prepared in advance, and which are
kept available for use at a moment’s notice.
173—ANCHOVIES (FILLETS OF)
Whether they be for hors d’œuvres or for culinary use, it is always
best to have these handy.
After having washed and well wiped them, in order to remove the white
powder resulting from the little scales with which they are covered,
they should be neatly trimmed to the shape of extended oblongs. Then
detach the fillets from the bones by gentle pulling, divide each fillet
lengthwise into three or four smaller fillets, put the latter into
a small narrow dish or a little bowl, and cover them with oil. The
fillets may also be kept whole with a view to rolling them into rings.
174—ANGLAISE (FOR EGG-AND-BREAD-CRUMBING)
It is well to have this always ready for those dishes which are to be
_panés à l’anglaise_, or as many of the recipes direct: _treated à
l’anglaise_.
It is made of well-whisked eggs, salt, pepper, and one dessertspoonful
of oil per couple of eggs.
_Its Uses._—The solids to be _panés à l’anglaise_ are dipped into the
preparation described above, taking care that the latter coats them
thoroughly; whereupon, according to the requirements, they are rolled
either in bread-crumbs or in fine raspings. From this combination
of egg with bread-crumbs or raspings there results a kind of coat
which, at the moment of contact with the hot fat, is immediately
converted into a resisting crust. In _croquettes_ this crust checks the
escape, into the fat, of the substances it encloses, and this is more
especially the case when the _croquettes_ contain some reduced sauce,
or are composed of raw meats or fish whose juices are thereby entirely
retained. A solid prepared _à l’anglaise_ and cooked in fat should
always be put into the latter when this is very hot, so as to ensure
the instantaneous solidification of the egg and bread-crumbs.
N.B.—Objects to be treated _à l’anglaise_ are generally rolled in
flour before being immersed in the _anglaise_, for the flour helps the
foregoing to adhere to the object.
The crust formed over the solid thus acquires a density which is
indispensable.
174a—AROMATICS
Aromatics play a very prominent part in cookery, and their combination
with the condiments constitutes, as Grimod de la Reynière said, “the
hidden soul of cooking.” Their real object, in fact, is to throw the
savour of dishes into relief, to intensify that savour, and to give
each culinary preparation its particular stamp.
They are all derived from the vegetable kingdom; but, while some are
used dry, others are used fresh.
The first-named should belong to the permanent kitchen stock; they are:
_sage_, _basil_, _rosemary_, _sweet marjoram_, _thyme_, and _bay_.
Also to be included in the permanent stock are: _cinnamon_, _ginger_,
_juniper-berries_, _nutmeg_, _cloves_, _mace_, and _vanilla_.
The last-named comprise those aromatic herbs used fresh, such as:
_parsley_, _chervil_, _tarragon_, _pimpernel_, and _common savory_;
while, under this head, there may also be included: bits of common- and
Seville-orange rind and _zests_ of lemon rind.
174b—SEASONING AND CONDIMENTS
Seasonings are divided into several classes, which comprise:—
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