A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.
2308 words | Chapter 41
_Remarks._—I have adopted the use of this ordinary Chaud-Froid sauce
for the glazing of fillets and escalopes of fish and Shell-fish,
instead of cleared Mayonnaise, formerly used, which had certain
inconveniences—not the least being the oozing away of the oil under
the shrinkage of the gelatine. This difficulty does not obtain in the
ordinary Chaud-Froid, the definite and pronounced flavour of which is
better than that of the cleared Mayonnaise.
77—“ESCOFFIER” CHERRY SAUCE
This sauce may be bought ready-made. Like the Roberts Sauce, it can be
served hot or cold. It is an excellent adjunct to venison, and even to
small ground-game. Saddle of venison with this sauce constitutes one of
the greatest dainties that an epicure could desire.
78—CHIVRY SAUCE
In one-half pint of boiling poultry stock put a large pinch of chervil
pluches, tarragon and parsley leaves, a head of young pimpernel (the
qualification here is very important, for this aromatic plant grows
bitter as it matures), and a good pinch of chives. Cover up, and
let infusion proceed for ten to twelve minutes; then add the liquid
(strained through linen) to one pint of velouté. Boil, reduce by a
quarter, and complete it with two oz. of Green Butter (No. 143). Chivry
Sauce is admirably suited to boiled or poached poultry.
79—CREAM SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, and add one-quarter pint of cream
to it. Reduce on an open fire until the sauce has become very thick;
then pass through tammy. Bring to its normal degree of consistency by
gradually adding, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of very fresh
cream and a few drops of lemon-juice. Serve this sauce with boiled
fish, poultry, eggs, and various vegetables.
80—SHRIMP SAUCE
Boil one pint of fish velouté or, failing this, Béchamel sauce, and add
to it one-quarter pint of cream and one-quarter pint of very clear fish
_fumet_. Reduce to one pint, and finish the sauce, away from the fire,
with two oz. of Shrimp Butter (No. 145) and two oz. of shelled shrimps’
tails.
81—CURRY SAUCE
Slightly brown the following vegetables in butter:—Twelve oz. of minced
onions, one oz. of parsley roots, four oz. of minced celery, a small
sprig of thyme, a bit of bay, and a little mace. Sprinkle with two oz.
of flour and a teaspoonful of curry pepper. Cook the flour for some
minutes without letting it acquire any colour, and dilute with one and
one-half pints of white stock. Boil, cook gently for three-quarters
of an hour, and rub through a tammy. Now heat the sauce, remove its
grease, and keep it in the _bain-marie_. Serve this sauce with fish,
shell-fish, poultry, and various egg-preparations.
N.B.—This sauce is sometimes flavoured with cocoa-nut milk in the
proportion of one-quarter of the diluent.
82—DIPLOMATE SAUCE
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, prepared according to No. 99, and
finish it with two oz. of lobster butter and three tablespoonfuls of
lobster meat, and truffles cut into small, regular tubes.
83—HERB SAUCE
Prepare one pint of white-wine sauce (No. 111). Finish it away from
the fire with three oz. of shallot butter, a tablespoonful of parsley,
chervil, tarragon, and chives, chopped and mixed. Serve this sauce with
boiled or poached fish.
84—GOOSEBERRY SAUCE
Prepare one pint of butter sauce, Formula No. 66. Meanwhile put one lb.
of green gooseberries into a small copper saucepan containing boiling
water. Boil for five minutes, then drain the gooseberries, and put them
in a little stewpan with one-half pint of white wine and three oz. of
powdered sugar. Gently cook the gooseberries, rub them through a tammy,
and add the resulting pulp to the butter sauce. This sauce is excellent
with grilled mackerel and the poached fillets of that fish.
85—HUNGARIAN SAUCE
Gently fry in butter, without colouring, two tablespoonfuls of chopped
onions seasoned with table-salt and half a teaspoonful of paprika.
Moisten with one-quarter pint of white wine, add a small faggot, reduce
the wine by two-thirds, and remove the herbs.
Finish with one pint of ordinary or Lenten Velouté, according to the
use for which the sauce is intended, and boil moderately for five
minutes. Then rub the sauce through a tammy, and complete it with
two oz. of butter. Remember this sauce should be of a tender, pink
shade, which it must owe to the paprika alone.
It forms an ideal accompaniment to choice morsels of lamb and veal,
eggs, poultry, and fish.
86—OYSTER SAUCE
Take one pint of Normande Sauce, finish it as directed in that recipe,
and complete it with one-quarter pint of reduced oyster liquor,
strained through linen, and twelve poached and trimmed oysters.
87—IVORY SAUCE, OR ALBUFERA SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of Suprême Sauce, prepared as explained
in No. 106a. Add to this four tablespoonfuls of dissolved, pale, meat
glaze per quart of sauce, in order to lend the latter that ivory-white
tint which characterises it. Serve this sauce chiefly with poultry and
poached sweet-bread.
88—JOINVILLE SAUCE
Prepare one pint of Normande Sauce (No. 99), as given in the first
part of its formula, and complete it with two oz. of shrimp butter and
two oz. of crayfish butter. If this sauce is to accompany a fish à la
Joinville, which includes a special garnish, it is served as it stands.
If it is served with a large, boiled, ungarnished fish, one oz. of
very black truffles cut _Julienne-fashion_ should be added. As may be
seen, Joinville Sauce differs from similar preparations in the final
operation where crayfish and shrimp butter are combined.
89—MALTESE SAUCE
To the Hollandaise Sauce, given under No. 30, add, when dishing up,
the juice of two blood oranges (these late-season oranges being
especially suitable for this sauce) and half a coffeespoonful of grated
orange-rind.
Maltese Sauce is the finest for asparagus.
90—MARINIÈRE SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of Bercy Sauce (No. 65), and add, per pint
of sauce, one-quarter pint of mussel liquor and a leason composed of
the yolks of three eggs.
Serve this with small poached fish and more particularly with mussels.
91—MORNAY SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce with one-quarter pint of the _fumet_
of the fish, poultry, or vegetable, which is to constitute the dish.
Reduce by a good quarter, and add two oz. of Gruyère and two oz. of
grated Parmesan.
Put the sauce on the fire again for a few minutes, and ensure the
melting of the cheese by stirring with a small whisk. Finish the sauce
away from the fire with two oz. of butter added by degrees.
92—MOUSSELINE SAUCE
To a Hollandaise Sauce, prepared as explained (No. 30), add, just
before dishing up, one-half pint of stiffly-whipped cream per pint of
sauce.
93—MOUSSEUSE SAUCE
Scald and wipe a small vegetable-pan, and put into it one-half lb. of
stiffly-_manied_ butter, properly softened. Season this butter with
table-salt and a few drops of lemon-juice, and whisk it while gradually
adding one-third pint of cold water. Finish with two tablespoonfuls
of very firm, whipped cream. This preparation, though classified as a
sauce, is really a compound butter, which is served with boiled fish.
The heat of the fish alone suffices to melt it, and its appearance is
infinitely more agreeable than that of plain, melted butter.
94—MUSTARD SAUCE
Take the necessary quantity of butter sauce and complete it, away from
the fire, with one tablespoonful of mustard per pint of sauce.
N.B.—If the sauce has to wait, it must be kept in a _bain-marie_, for
it should not on any account boil. It is served with certain small
grilled fish, especially fresh herrings.
95—NANTUA SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel Sauce, add one-half pint of cream, and reduce
by a third. Rub it through a tammy, and finish it with a further
addition of two tablespoonfuls of cream, three oz. of very fine
crayfish butter, and one tablespoonful of small, shelled crayfishes’
tails.
96—NEWBURG SAUCE
_First Method_ (_with Raw Lobsters_).—Divide a two lb. lobster into
four parts. Remove its creamy parts, pound them finely with two oz. of
butter, and put them aside.
Heat in a sautépan one and one-half oz. of butter and as much oil, and
insert the pieces of lobster, well seasoned with salt and cayenne. Fry
until the pieces assume a fine, red colour; entirely drain away the
butter, and add two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-third pint
of Marsala or old Sherry.
Reduce the wine by two-thirds, and wet the lobster with one-third pint
of cream and one-half pint of fish _fumet_. Now add a faggot, cover
the sautépan, and gently cook for twenty-five minutes. Then drain the
lobster on a sieve, remove the meat and cut it into cubes, and finish
the sauce by adding the creamy portions put aside from the first. Boil
so as to ensure the cooking of these latter portions; add the meat, cut
into cubes, and verify the seasoning.
N.B.—The addition of the meat to the sauce is optional; instead of
cutting it into cubes it may be stewed and displayed on the fish
constituting the dish.
97—SECOND METHOD (WITH COOKED LOBSTER)
The lobster having been cooked in a _Court-bouillon_, shell the tail
and slice it up. Arrange these slices in a sautépan liberally buttered
at the bottom; season them strongly with salt and cayenne, and heat
them on both sides so as to effect the reddening of the skin. Immerse,
so as to cover, in a good Sherry, and almost entirely reduce same.
When dishing up, pour on to the slices a leason composed of one-third
pint of fresh cream and the yolks of two eggs. Gently stir, away from
the fire, and roll the saucepan about until the leason is completed.
Originally, these two sauces, like the American, were exclusively
composed of, and served with, lobster. They were one with the two very
excellent preparations of lobster which bear their name. In its two
forms lobster may only be served at lunch, many people with delicate
stomachs being unable to digest it at night. To obviate this serious
difficulty, I have made it a practice to serve lobster sauce with
fillets or Mousselines of sole, adding the lobster as a garnish only.
And this innovation proved most welcome to the public.
By using such condiments as curry and paprika, excellent varieties of
this sauce may be obtained, which are particularly suited to sole and
other white Lenten fish. In either of these cases it is well to add a
little rice “à l’Indienne” to the fish.
98—NOISETTE SAUCE
Prepare a Hollandaise Sauce according to the recipe under No. 30. Add
two oz. of hazel-nut butter at the last moment.
Serve this with salmon, trout, and all boiled fish in general.
99—NORMANDE SAUCE
Put in a sautépan one pint of fish velouté, three tablespoonfuls of
mushroom liquor, as much oyster liquor, and twice as much sole _fumet_,
the yolks of three eggs, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one-quarter
pint of cream. Reduce by a good third on an open fire, season with a
little cayenne, rub through a tammy, and finish with two oz. of butter
and four tablespoonfuls of good cream.
This sauce is proper to fillet of sole “à la Normande,” but it is also
frequently used as the base of other small sauces.
100—ORIENTAL SAUCE
Take one pint of American sauce, season with curry, and reduce to a
third. Then add, away from the fire, one-quarter pint of cream per pint
of sauce.
Serve this sauce in the same way as American Sauce.
101—POULETTE SAUCE
Boil for a few minutes one pint of Sauce Allemande, and add six
tablespoonfuls of mushroom liquor. Finish, away from the fire, with
two oz. of butter, a few drops of lemon-juice, and one teaspoonful
of chopped parsley. Use this sauce with certain vegetables, but more
generally with sheep’s trotters.
102—RAVIGOTE SAUCE
Reduce by half, one-quarter pint of white wine with half as much
vinegar. Add one pint of ordinary velouté, boil gently for a few
minutes, and finish with one and one-half oz. of shallot butter and
one teaspoonful of chervil, tarragon, and chopped chives. This sauce
accompanies boiled poultry and certain white “_abats_.”
103—REGENCY SAUCE
_If this sauce is to garnish poultry_, boil one pint of Allemande Sauce
with six tablespoonfuls of mushroom essence and two tablespoonfuls of
truffle essence. Finish with four tablespoonfuls of poultry glaze.
_If it is to garnish fish_, substitute for the Allemande Sauce some
fish velouté thickened with egg-yolks and the essences of mushroom and
truffle as above. Complete with some fish essence.
104—SOUBISE SAUCE
Stew in butter two lbs. of finely-minced onions, scalded for three
minutes and well dried. This stewing of the onions in butter increases
their flavour. Now add one-half pint of thickened Béchamel; season with
salt and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar. Cook gently for half an hour,
rub through a tammy, and complete the sauce with some tablespoonfuls of
cream and two oz. of butter.
105—SOUBISE SAUCE WITH RICE
The same quantity as above of minced onions, scalded and well drained.
Garnish the bottom and the sides of a tall, medium stewpan with
some thin rashers of fat bacon. Insert the onions, together with
one-quarter lb. of Carolina rice, one pint of white consommé, a large
pinch of powdered sugar, and the necessary salt. Cook gently in the
front of the oven for three-quarters of an hour. Then pound the onions
and rice in a mortar, rub the resulting purée through a tammy, and
finish with cream and butter as in the preceding case.
N.B.—This sauce, being more consistent than the former, is used as a
garnish just as often as a sauce.
106—SOUBISE SAUCE TOMATÉE
Prepare a soubise in accordance with the first of the two above
formulæ, and add to it one-third of its volume of very red tomato purée.
=Remarks.=
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