5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot

salads, with salads of celeriac, and with green salads wherein beetroot plays a major part. It is made up of a small tablespoonful of mustard, mixed with one-third pint of fresh and somewhat thin cream, the juice of a fair-sized lemon, salt, and pepper. N.B.—I should like to point out that mayonnaise sauce must only be used in very small quantities in the seasoning of salads. It is indigestible, and many constitutions cannot suffer it, especially at night at the end of a dinner. Raw onion should likewise only be used in salads with great moderation, in view of the fact that so many do not like it. In any case, it should be finely _ciseled_, washed in fresh water, and pressed in the corner of a towel. 1985—SIMPLE SALADS They comprise, in the first place, those salads known under the name of green salads. Such are lettuce, cos lettuce, chicory, endive, batavia, celery, corn-salad, dandelion, purslain, dittander, rampion, salsify leaves, white dandelion, &c. 1986—SALADS DE BETTERAVE (Beetroot Salad) Beetroot is really the accompaniment of compound and simple salads, and it is always best to cook it in the oven. If it be prepared specially as a salad, cut it into a _julienne_ or into thin roundels; flavour it with onions, first baked in cinders and then finely chopped, and season it with mustard sauce or with oil, according to fancy. Always add some chopped herbs. 1987—CELERY SALAD For salads, only the fibreless, white celery is used—commonly known as English celery. Cut it into pieces, and _cisel_ these into very thin strips without altogether separating the latter at their base. Place in cold water for a few hours, that the strips may curl; drain and season with a mustard sauce with cream. 1988—CELERIAC SALAD Cut the celeriac into a fine _julienne_ or _paysanne_. Season, according to fancy, with a mustard sauce with cream, or a clear mayonnaise sauce containing plenty of mustard. 1989—CAULIFLOWER SALAD Divide the cooked and somewhat firm cauliflowers into small bunches, cleared of all stalk. Season with oil and vinegar, and flavour with chopped chervil. 1990—RED-CABBAGE SALAD Suppress the midribs of the leaves; cut the leaves into a _julienne_, and season them with oil and vinegar six hours in advance. The _julienne_ of cabbages may be parboiled for a few minutes to modify the rawness of the vegetable; it should then be cooled and seasoned as above. 1991—CUCUMBER SALAD Peel and thinly slice them; sprinkle the slices with table-salt, and let them stand for two hours. Dry, and season them with oil, vinegar, and chopped chervil. 1992—HARICOT BEANS AND LENTIL SALADS, ETC. Thoroughly drain the vegetable, whatever be its kind; season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley. Serve separately some thinly-_ciseled_, washed, and pressed onion. 1993—POTATO SALAD Cut some long, fair-sized potatoes, cooked in salted water and lukewarm, to the shape of corks, and divide up the latter into thin roundels. Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped herbs. 1994—POTATO SALAD A LA PARISIENNE Select potatoes which do not crumble, such as the vitelottes or new kidney potatoes. Cook them in salted water; cut them to the shape of corks, and slice them (while still lukewarm) into thin roundels. Put them into a salad-bowl, and sprinkle them with two-thirds pint of white wine per two lbs. of potatoes. Then season with oil and vinegar, add some chopped chervil and parsley, and stir with care lest the roundels break. 1995—TOMATO SALAD Select some medium-sized and rather firm tomatoes, and scald them. Then skin them; cut them in two crosswise; press them to clear them of juice and seeds; cut them into thin strips; season them with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped tarragon. 1996—COMPOUND SALADS Unless they leave the kitchen to be served immediately, compound salads are dished without their constituents being mixed. As the latter are generally of various colours, they are seasoned and dished in distinct heaps of contrasted shades. The dishing of compound salads is finished by means of borders consisting of pieces of very red beetroot, gherkins, truffles, roundels of potatoes, and radishes. The method of arranging these vegetables constitutes the decoration, and the latter, being subject to no rules, is merely a matter of taste. I do not advise the moulding of compound salads, for the increased sightliness resulting therefrom is small compared with the loss in the taste of the preparation. The simplest form of dishing is the best, and fancifulness should not be indulged in, beyond the arrangement of the vegetables in a pyramid, surrounded by a decorated border of jelly. 1997—SALADE ALLEMANDE Take equal quantities of potatoes and apples, gherkins, and herring-fillets, all cut into dice and arranged in heaps. Season with hard-boiled egg sauce, and decorate with very red beetroot. 1998—SALADE AMÉRICAINE Peel and press some tomatoes, and cut them into thin slices; cut some potatoes into thin roundels, and prepare a short _julienne_ of celery. Decorate with roundels of hard-boiled eggs and thin onion rings. Season with oil and vinegar. 1999—SALADE ANDALOUSE Peel and quarter some small tomatoes; cut some mild capsicums _julienne_-fashion; cook some rice plainly in salted water, keeping each grain separate; add a little crushed garlic and chopped onion and parsley. Season with oil and vinegar. 2000—SALADE BELLE-FERMIÈRE This salad consists of curled celery and equal quantities of plain-boiled potatoes, beetroot, and capsicum—all these vegetables cut _julienne_-fashion, the celery measuring one-third, and the other ingredients two-thirds of the whole. Season with mustard sauce with cream. 2001—SALADE CRESSONNIÈRE This consists of potatoes à la Parisienne (No. 2017) and watercress leaves, in equal quantities. Sprinkle with parsley, chervil, and hard-boiled egg, mixed. 2002—SALADE ISABELLE Thinly slice equal quantities of raw mushrooms, celery, cooked potatoes, and artichoke-bottoms. Dish in distinct heaps. Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped chervil. 2003—SALADE DANICHEFF Take equal quantities of sliced and _blanched_ celeriac, thin roundels of potatoes, slices of artichoke-bottoms, strips of raw mushrooms, and green asparagus-heads, and arrange them in heaps. Deck with crayfishes’ tails, hard-boiled eggs, and truffles. Season with mayonnaise sauce. 2004—SALADE DEMI-DEUIL Take equal quantities of a _julienne_ of potatoes and a _julienne_ of very black truffles. Decorate with rings of truffle girding small roundels of potato, and rings of potato girding small roundels of truffle. Alternate the two forms of rings. Season with a mustard sauce with cream. 2005—SALADE D’ESTRÉES Take equal quantities of curled celery and a moderately small _julienne_ of raw truffles. Season, when about to dish up, with a mayonnaise sauce with mustard, slightly flavoured with cayenne. 2006—SALADE A LA FLAMANDE This consists of a coarse _julienne_ of endives, a similar _julienne_ of potatoes, an onion baked in its skin, cooled, peeled, and chopped, and some fillets of herring cut into dice, the quantities being in the proportion of one-half of the whole for the endives, one-quarter of the whole for the potatoes, and the remaining quarter for the onion and fillets of herring. Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley and chervil. 2007—SALADE FRANCILLON Take some potato salad “à la Parisienne” (No. 2017), previously _marinaded_ in Chablis wine, some mussels (cleared of their beards, and poached with celery), and slices of very black truffle, the three constituents being in the proportion of one-half, one-quarter, and one-quarter respectively. Set the potato salad on the bottom of the salad bowl, and lay thereon, by way of decoration, the mussels and the truffles in alternate layers. 2008—SALADE ITALIENNE Take equal quantities of carrots, turnips, potatoes, tomatoes, and French beans—all cut into regular dice; also peas, small stoned olives, capers, anchovy fillets in small dice, and herbs for the seasoning. Use hard-boiled eggs for the decoration. Season with mayonnaise sauce. 2009—JOCKEY-CLUB SALAD Take equal quantities of asparagus-heads and a _julienne_ of raw truffles; the two should be seasoned separately some time in advance. Cohere, when about to dish, with a very little highly-seasoned mayonnaise sauce. 2010—SALADE LACMÉ Take equal quantities of red capsicums and tomato sauce; plain-boiled rice, kept very white, and with each grain distinct; and _ciseled_, washed, and pressed onion. Season with oil and vinegar, and flavour with curry. 2011—SALADE DE LEGUMES Take equal quantities of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a grooved spoon-cutter; potato dice; French beans cut lozenge-form; peas; small flageolets, and asparagus-heads; arrange them in distinct heaps, and set a fine bunch of cauliflower in the middle. Season with oil and vinegar, and add some chopped parsley and chervil. N.B.—For vegetable salad, use freshly-cooked and uncooled vegetables as much as possible. 2012—SALADE LORETTE Take equal quantities of corn salad, and a _julienne_ of beetroot and celery. Season with oil and vinegar. 2013—SALADE MIGNON Take equal quantities of shelled shrimps’ tails, artichoke-bottoms, cut into dice, and very thin slices of black truffle arranged to form a border. Season with highly-seasoned mayonnaise sauce with cream. 2014—SALADE MONTE-CRISTO Take equal quantities of lobster-meat, cooked truffles, and potatoes and hard-boiled eggs in dice, and arrange them in distinct heaps. In their midst place the very white heart of a lettuce. Season with mayonnaise sauce with mustard, and add some chopped tarragon. 2015—SALADE NIÇOISE Take equal quantities of French beans, potato dice, and quartered tomatoes. Decorate with capers, small, stoned olives, and anchovy fillets. Season with oil and vinegar. 2016—SALADE OPÉRA Take equal quantities of white chicken meat, very red tongue, celery-sticks cut _julienne_-fashion, and a _julienne_ of truffles. Arrange these constituents in very regular heaps, and in the middle of them set a heap of asparagus-heads. Decorate with a border consisting of roundels of cocks’ kidneys and roundels of gherkins, laid alternately. Season with very thin mayonnaise sauce. 2017—SALADE PARISIENNE _Clothe_ a Charlotte-mould with very clear jelly, and garnish its bottom and sides with thin collops of spiny-lobster’s tail decked with truffles. Fill the mould with a vegetable salad (No. 2011) combined with a quarter of its volume of lobster or spiny-lobster remains, cut into dice, and cohered by means of a cleared mayonnaise. Leave to set in the cool, and, when about to serve, turn out on a napkin. 2018—SALADE MASCOTTE Take some green asparagus-heads, some hard-boiled lapwings’ eggs, some sliced cocks’ kidneys, some slices of truffle, and some crayfishes’ tails. Decorate according to fancy, making use of the ingredients of the salad for the purpose. Season with mustard sauce with cream. 2019—SALADE RACHEL Take equal quantities of sticks of celery, raw artichoke-bottoms, truffles, potatoes, and asparagus-heads, all, except the latter, being cut _julienne_-fashion. Slightly cohere the salad with mayonnaise sauce. 2020—SALADE RÉGENCE Take equal quantities of sliced cocks’ kidneys, shavings of raw truffles, asparagus-heads, and celery cut lengthwise into extremely thin strips. Season strongly with oil and lemon juice. 2021—SALADE RUSSE Take equal quantities of carrots, potatoes, French beans, peas, truffles, capers, gherkins, sliced and cooked mushrooms, lobster meat, and lean ham—all cut _julienne_-fashion, and add some anchovy fillets. Cohere the whole with mayonnaise sauce; dish, and decorate with some of the ingredients of the salad, together with beetroot and caviare. 2022—SALADE SICILIENNE Take equal quantities of celeriac, russet apples, tomatoes, and artichoke-bottoms—all four cut into dice. Season with oil and lemon juice. 2023—SALADE TREDERN Take twenty-four crayfishes’ tails, cooked as for bisque, and cut lengthwise; twenty-four oysters (cleared of their beards), poached in lemon juice; and three tablespoonfuls of asparagus-heads. The three constituents should have barely cooled. Complete with fine shavings of raw truffles. Season with condimented mayonnaise sauce, combined with a purée made from the crayfishes’ carcasses, pounded with two tablespoonfuls of fresh cream. 2024—SALADE DE TRUFFES Cut some raw, peeled truffles into very thin shavings. Season with a sauce consisting of hard-boiled egg-yolks, seasoned with salt and freshly-ground pepper, and finished with oil and lemon juice. 2025—SALADE DE TRUFFES BLANCHES Cut some raw, white, Piedmont truffles into thin shavings. Season with a sauce consisting of hard-boiled egg-yolks seasoned with salt and pepper, and finished with mustard, oil, and vinegar. 2026—SALADE VICTORIA Take equal quantities of spiny-lobster trimmings, asparagus-heads, truffles, and cucumbers—all cut into dice. Season with a mayonnaise sauce, combined with the spiny-lobster’s creamy parts and a purée of coral. 2027—SALADE WALDORF Take equal quantities of russet apples and celeriac, both cut into dice, and halved and peeled walnuts, soaked in fresh water for one-quarter hour, and well drained. Season with clear mayonnaise sauce.