2. VEAL.

With the exception of veal sweetbreads, it cannot be denied that this meat is considerably less popular in England than abroad, nor does it ever seem to appear on important menus in this country. Of course, and the fact must not be lost sight of, English veal is admittedly inferior in quality—badly fattened, and mostly red, soft, and dry. Probably, therefore, its unpopularity may be the indirect cause of its poor quality; for it is inconceivable that a country so famous for cattle-rearing as England undoubtedly is could not produce veal equal in quality to its beef, mutton, and pork, if rearers thought it worth their while to perfect that special branch of their business. Be this as it may, almost all the best veal consumed in England comes from the Continent, principally from France, Belgium, and Holland; and, in this respect, I not only refer to the larger joints, but to those odd parts such as the head, the liver, the sweetbreads, &c., the continental quality of which is likewise very superior to that of the English produce. 1181—SELLE DE VEAU (Relevé) Saddle of veal is the only Relevé of this meat which is sometimes allowed to appear on an important menu, and it is, in fact, a splendid and succulent joint. It may be roasted, but I should urge the adoption of the braising treatment, not only as a precaution against dryness, but because of the fine stock yielded by the operation. Whatever be the method of cooking, trim the saddle on one side, flush with the bones of the pelvis, and up to the first ribs on the other side. Then cut out the kidneys, leaving a thick layer of fat on the under fillets or “filets mignons”; pare the flank on either side, in such wise that what is left of it, when drawn under the saddle on either side, may just cover the fillets above referred to. This flank should only be drawn over the fillets after the inside of the joint has been salted; then cover the top surface of the joint with slices of bacon, and tie round with string, five or six times, that the bacon and the flank may not shift. When the saddle is intended for only a small number of people, half of it may be used at a time; that is to say, one fillet, in which case the joint may be cut in two, lengthwise. The procedure for braising this piece is in pursuance of the directions given under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248). The process of braising, whether it be in respect of the saddle or other veal Relevés, such as the cushion, the loin, the neck, &c., demands particular care, must be accompanied by frequent basting, and should always be carried on with short moistening. 1182—SELLE DE VEAU A LA CHARTREUSE Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment, after having removed the slices of bacon. Set it on a long dish, and, at each end of the latter, place a _chartreuse_ of vegetables. Round the joint put a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and well-strained; and serve what remains in a sauceboat. _Chartreuses of Vegetables._—Take two dome- or Charlotte-moulds, capable of holding two-thirds of a quart. Butter them liberally; line them with buttered paper, and on the latter, over the bottom and sides of the utensil, lay carrots, turnips, peas, and French beans; each of which vegetables should be cooked in a way suited to its nature. This operation, which is somewhat finicking, may either be effected on the plan of a draught-board, or the different vegetables may be superposed in alternate rows of varying colours. When the moulds are garnished in this way, spread thereon, over the vegetables, a layer of forcemeat softened with beaten white of egg; the object of this measure is to keep the vegetable decoration in position, and this is effected by the poaching of the forcemeat before the chartreuse is filled with its garnish. This done, fill the moulds to within one-third inch of their brims with a Macédoine of vegetables cohered by means of stiff Béchamel and cream, and cover with a layer of forcemeat. Set these chartreuses to poach thirty-five minutes before serving, and take care to let them rest for five minutes before unmoulding them on either side of the saddle. 1183—SELLE DE VEAU A LA METTERNICH Braise the saddle, and, when it is ready, put it on a dish. Now draw a line within one-half inch of its extreme edge on either side and end, pressing the point of a small knife along the meat in so doing. Proceed in the same way on either side of the chine, and remove the fillets from the joint, severing them from the bone with care. Cut the fillets into regular collops, keeping the knife somewhat at a slant. In the double cavity left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Béchamel with paprika; return the colloped fillets to their respective places in the joint, reconstructing them in such wise as to make them appear untouched; and between the collops pour one-half tablespoonful of Béchamel and lay two slices of truffle. This done, cover the whole surface of the joint with Béchamel sauce with paprika, and set to glaze quickly at the salamander. Now, with a large slice, carefully transfer the saddle to a dish. Serve separately (1) the braising-liquor of the saddle, cleared of all grease and reduced; (2) a timbale of pilaff rice. 1184—SELLE DE VEAU A LA NELSON Braise the saddle. When it is ready, remove the fillets, proceeding exactly as described under “Selle à la Metternich,” and cut the fillets in a similar manner. In the cavities left by the fillets spread a few tablespoonfuls of Soubise; return the colloped fillets to their place, and, between the collops, place a thin slice of ham, of the same size and shape as the adjacent piece of meat, and a little Soubise sauce. Having reconstructed the joint, cover its surface with a layer, about one inch thick, of “Soufflé au Parmesan,” combined with one quart of truffle purée. Bind the joint with a strong band of buttered paper, for the purpose of holding in the _soufflé_, and set it to cook in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. After having taken the saddle out of the oven, remove the paper band, and send it to the table without changing the dish. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, to the table separately. 1185—SELLE DE VEAU A L’ORIENTALE Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut them into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Garnish the cavities with Soubise sauce “au currie”; reconstruct the fillets, putting a little of the same sauce between the collops, and coat the surface of the piece with the sauce already referred to. Surround the joint with braised celery, and serve its cooking liquor and a timbale of pilaff rice separately. 1186—SELLE DE VEAU A LA PIÉMONTAISE Braise the saddle, and cut the fillets into collops as before. When reconstructing the fillets, between the collops put a little Béchamel sauce, combined with three and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan and three and one-half oz. of grated white truffles per quart of the sauce. Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce, and set to glaze quickly. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, separately; as also a timbale of rizotto à la Piémontaise (No. 2258). 1187—SELLE DE VEAU PRINCE ORLOFF Braise the saddle and proceed as above, placing between the collops of fillet a little Soubise sauce and a fine slice of truffle. Coat the surface of the joint with Mornay sauce, combined with one quart of highly-seasoned Soubise, and set to glaze quickly. N.B.—This saddle may be accompanied either by a garnish of asparagus-heads or by cucumbers with cream. 1188—SELLE DE VEAU A LA ROMANOFF Braise the saddle; remove the fillets, and cut the latter into collops as for “Selle à la Metternich.” Reconstruct the fillets, placing a small quantity of minced mushrooms, cohered by means of a few tablespoonfuls of cream, between the collops, and coat the surface of the joint with highly-seasoned Béchamel sauce, finished with four oz. of crayfish butter per quart. Surround the piece with a border of braised half-fennels. Serve the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced and strained, separately. 1189—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TOSCA Braise the saddle, and then prepare it as for No. 1183. Almost completely fill the cavities left by the fillets with a garnish of macaroni, cut into short lengths, cohered with cream, and combined with a _julienne_ of truffles. Reconstruct the fillets upon this garnish and coat the collops with Mornay sauce, placing a slice of truffle between the collops. The reconstructed fillets thus appear raised on either side of the chine. Coat the surface of the joint with the same sauce as that already used, and set to glaze quickly. Send the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and strained, to the table separately. 1190—SELLE DE VEAU A LA RENAISSANCE Braise the saddle, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it and surround it with a large heap of cauliflower at either end; on either side, nice heaps of carrots and turnips, raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter, cooked in consommé and glazed; peas; French beans in lozenge-form; asparagus-heads cohered with butter; and some small potatoes cooked in butter. Send the braising-liquor of the joint, cleared of grease and strained, separately. 1191—SELLE DE VEAU A LA TALLEYRAND Prepare twenty studs of truffle, about one inch long and one-third oz. in weight. Stick them upright and symmetrically into the meat of the joint, making way for them by means of little incisions cut with a small knife. Now envelop the joint in slices of larding bacon, string it, braise it, and glaze it at the last moment. Dish it with some of its braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced. Serve separately (1) what remains of the braising-liquor; (2) a garnish of macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with one and one-half oz. of butter, three oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, combined with three oz. of foie gras, cut into large dice, and three oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles, per lb. of macaroni. 1192—SELLE DE VEAU FROIDE Cold saddle of veal makes an excellent sideboard dish which admits of all cold-dish garnishes, such as Macédoines of vegetables cohered with jelly or mayonnaise sauce; artichoke-bottoms and tomatoes, variously garnished; small, moulded vegetable salads, &c. Decorate it with fine, regular, jelly dice; but its usual and essential adjunct is its own braising-liquor, cooked, cleared of grease poured carefully away, and served in a sauceboat without having been either clarified or cleared. All the pieces of veal given as relevés, the cushion, the loin, the fillet, and the fricandeau, may be served cold like the saddle, and are generally much appreciated, more particularly in summer. 1193—LOIN OF VEAL 1194—NECK OF VEAL 1195—SHORT LOIN OF VEAL 1196—CHUMP OF VEAL OR QUASI 1197—CUSHION OF VEAL (Relevés) I have grouped these various Relevés together owing to the identicalness of their garnishes. The directions I give below for cushion of veal are, with a very few exceptions which I shall point out, applicable to all other large veal joints. In the circumstances, therefore, it would be quite unnecessary to repeat the recipe in each case. _Loin of Veal_ is that piece which corresponds with the sirloin in beef. It extends from the floating ribs to the extreme end of the haunch, the latter being cut flush with the pelvic bone at its junction with the femur, and following the direction of the former bone. The loin thus consists of two distinct parts:—(1) the caudal region (called the chump end; Fr. quasi), which comprises the bones of the pelvis and the haunch, up to the level of the latter, and is one of the best pieces of veal for braising; and (2) the region extending from the haunch to the floating ribs, comprising the fillet and the upper fillet. This last portion also constitutes a choice joint, to which the kidneys are generally left attached, after all their superfluous fat has been removed. _Neck or Best End of Veal_ consists of the first eight or nine ribs, cut two inches above the kernel of meat. The ends of the rib-bones are cleared of meat to a height of about two-thirds inch, and the naked bone is then called the “handle” of the cutlet, which ultimately holds the ornamental frill of paper. The vertebræ are then suppressed, so that the bones of the ribs alone remain; the yellow ligament is cut away; and the bared parts are covered with slices of bacon, tied on by means of string. _Cushion of Veal_ consists of an enormous muscle, which represents almost half of the haunch and all the inside part of it, from the pelvis to its junction with the tibia. A certain quantity of white fat will always be found to lie over the cushion, and it should be carefully reserved. If the cushion is to be larded, a procedure which I do not advise, it should be done on the bared part adjoining the fat-covered region. The various pieces of veal enumerated above may be roasted, but, as in the case of the saddle, I prefer braising, owing to the greater succulence of the dish resulting from this process, and its accompanying gravy, which has an incomparable flavour. (See Braising of White Meats, No. 248.) 1198—ADJUNCTS TO CUSHION OF VEAL Cushion of veal, like the other large pieces of veal, admits of an almost unlimited number of vegetable garnishes, simple or compound, as also garnishes of various pastes. From among these garnishes the following may be quoted, viz.:—Bouquetière, Bourgeoise, Chartreuse, Choisy, Chicorée, Cardoons, Clamart, Braised Celery, Japanese Artichokes, Chow-chow, Endives, Spinach, Braised Lettuce, à la Vichy, à la Nemours, &c.; Jardinière, Macédoine, Renaissance, &c. Among the paste garnishes:—Noodles, Macaroni, Spaghetti, variously prepared; various Gnocchi, &c. And, in addition to all these, the garnishes already given under Beef Relevés, which need not be repeated here. I shall, therefore, give only three recipes which are proper to cushion of veal; though even these should be regarded as mere curiosities, seeing that, far from recommending them, I consider them rather as gastronomical mistakes. But some provision must be made for outlandish tastes, and, for this reason alone, I include the following recipes. 1199—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE Braise the cushion of veal, keeping it somewhat firm. This done, set it on a dish, and let it almost cool. Then cut a slice from it laterally, at a point one-third inch of its height from the top; and, within one-half inch of its edges, make a circular incision, pressing the point of a sharp knife into the meat, and withdraw the centre of the cushion. Take care to leave the same thickness of meat on the sides as on the bottom, that is to say, about one-half inch. The cushion of veal, thus emptied, should have the appearance of a round or oval case. If the meat withdrawn from the centre of the cushion is to serve for the garnish, or is to be used sliced to surround the case, cut it from out the whole in the largest possible pieces, in order that slices may easily be cut therefrom. The inside of the emptied cushion of veal is then garnished according to fancy; the top of the piece that was cut off at the start is returned to its place, with the view of giving the piece an untouched appearance, and the whole is put in the oven for a few minutes that it may be hot for serving. The braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained, should be sent to the table separately. 1200—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA MACÉDOINE Braise the cushion of veal, and hollow it out as explained above. Meanwhile (1) prepare a _Macédoine_ garnish, or mixed _Jardinière_ (cohered with butter or cream), the quantity of which should be in proportion to the size of the case; (2) cut the meat, withdrawn from the centre of the cushion, into thin rectangles. Garnish the bottom of the case with a layer of _Macédoine_, and set thereon a litter consisting of the rectangles of meat. Cover with _Macédoine_; set thereon another litter of the pieces of meat, and renew the operation until the case is filled. Finish up with a layer of _Macédoine_. Replace the slice cut from the cushion at the start; put the case in the oven for a few minutes; serve, and send the braising-liquor separately. 1201—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA PITHIVIERS Braise the cushion of veal, and prepare the case as directed above. Stuff fifteen larks without boning them; that is to say, put a lump of stuffing about the size of a hazel-nut into each. Fry them in butter with one-half lb. of mushrooms and three oz. of truffles, each of which vegetables should be raw and minced. Cohere the whole with the necessary quantity of half-glaze sauce, flavoured with game essence; put this garnish in the case; return the sliced piece to its place; seal the cover to the case by means of a thread of almost liquid forcemeat, and set in the oven for seven or eight minutes. When taking the case out of the oven, surround with the withdrawn meat, which should have been cut into thin slices and kept warm until required for the dressing. The larks may be replaced by quails or thrushes, or other small birds, but the name of the particular bird used must be referred to in the title of the dish. 1202—NOIX DE VEAU EN SURPRISE A LA TOULOUSAINE Braise the cushion and cut it to the shape of a case as explained above. Pour therein a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat; lamb sweetbreads, or collops of veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration; cocks’ combs; small mushrooms, cooked and very white; and slices of truffle; the whole to be cohered by means of an Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence. Return the piece sliced off at the start to its place, and surround with slices of the meat withdrawn from the inside of the cushion. N.B.—All the garnishes suited to Vol-au-vent and timbales may be served with cushion-of-veal case, which latter thus stands in the stead of the Vol-au-vent and Timbale crusts. Finally, I must ask the reader to bear in mind that methods like those described above have no place in really good cookery, the ruling principle of which should always be simplicity. 1203—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA CAUCASIENNE Cut a cold cushion of veal into slices two inches long by one-half inch wide by one-sixth inch thick. On each slice spread a little butter seasoned with salt and pepper, combined with finely-chopped chives and anchovy fillets cut into dice. Couple the slices together as for sandwiches; round off their angles and put them under slight pressure. Prepare a Purée of tomatoes with jelly; mould it in a dome- or Bombe-mould, and let it set on ice. When this moulding of tomatoes is quite firm, turn it out in the middle of a round, cold dish; arrange the meat slices all round, and border the dish with cubes of very clear veal jelly. 1204—NOIX DE VEAU FROIDE A LA SUÉDOISE (1) From the widest part of a cold cushion of veal, cut a lateral slice one and one-third inch thick, and trim it nicely round. (2) Let a coating of aspic jelly set on the bottom of a round dish, and upon this jelly, when it is quite firm, lay the slice of veal. (3) Cut what remains of the piece of veal into slices two inches long, by one and one-half inch broad, by one-eighth inch thick. Prepare the same number of rectangles of salted tongue, of the same size, though slightly thinner than those of veal. (4) Cohere a nice vegetable salad with cleared mayonnaise; mould it in an oiled, Bombe-shaped or narrow pyramid mould, and put it on ice to set. Coat the rectangles of veal with horse-radish butter; place a rectangle of tongue on each, and finish off these sandwiches by rounding their corners. _For Dishing._—By means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the edges of the slice of veal with a thread of previously softened butter. Turn out the vegetable salad in the centre of the piece of meat; set on it the heart of a small lettuce (nicely opened), and arrange the veal and tongue sandwiches all round. Serve a cold sauce, derived from the mayonnaise, separately. 1205—LONGES, CARRÉS ET NOIX DE VEAU FROIDS What was said in respect of cold saddle of veal likewise applies to the different pieces mentioned in the above title. They may be coated with aspic jelly and dished with _Macédoines_ of vegetables, cohered with jelly; small salads, cohered with cleared mayonnaise; garnished artichoke-bottoms, &c. The dishes should always be bordered with cubes of very clear jelly. 1206—FRICANDEAU (Relevé) Fricandeau is a lateral cut from the cushion of veal; that is to say, a piece cut with the grain of the meat. It should not be thicker than one and one-half inches. After beating it with a beater or the flat of a chopper, to break the fibres of the meat, finely lard the piece of meat on the cut side with strips of bacon, somewhat smaller than those used for fillet of beef. Only when the piece is larded may it be called “Fricandeau”; for, when not treated thus, it is nothing else than an ordinary piece of veal. Fricandeau is invariably braised; but it differs from other braisings of white meat in this, namely, that it must be so cooked as to be easily cut with a spoon. Connoisseurs maintain that Fricandeau should never be touched with a knife. It is glazed at the last moment, like other braisings, and, in view of its prolonged cooking, should be dished with great care. All the garnishes enumerated for cushion of veal may be adapted to Fricandeau. 1207—FRICANDEAU FROID Cold fricandeau constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. It is dished and surrounded with its braising-liquor, cleared of grease and strained. This braising-liquor sets to a jelly, and is the finest adjunct to fricandeau that could be found. The piece may be glazed with half-melted jelly, smeared over it by means of a brush. 1208—POITRINE DE VEAU FARCIE This is really a family dish, admirably suited for a luncheon relevé. It is accompanied chiefly by vegetable purées, but all the vegetable and other garnishes given under Cushion of Veal may be served with it. Breast of veal is prepared thus:—After having boned the piece, open it where it is thickest, without touching the ends. A kind of pocket is thus obtained, into which put the previously-prepared stuffing, taking care to spread it very evenly. Now, with coarse cotton, sew up the opening, and remember to withdraw the cotton when the piece is cooked. _Stuffing for Breast of Veal._—For a piece weighing four lbs., add to one lb. of very fine sausage-meat (No. 196), two oz. of dry _duxelles_, two oz. of butter, a pinch of chopped parsley, tarragon and chives, a small beaten egg, and a little salt and pepper. _Cooking._—Breast of veal is usually braised; the moistening should be short and the cooking process gentle. For a piece weighing four lbs. when stuffed, allow three hours in a moderate and regular oven. Glaze breast of veal at the last moment, as in the case of other braised meats. 1209—TÊTE DE VEAU (Relevé and Entrée) Nowadays, calf’s head is rarely served whole, as was the custom formerly. Still more rarely, however, is it served at a dinner of any importance; and it has now, by almost general consent, been relegated to luncheon menus where, indeed, it has found its proper place. After having boned the head, soak it or hold it under a running tap, for a sufficiently long time to allow of its being entirely cleared of blood. Then, blanch it for a good half-hour; cool it in cold water; drain it, and rub it with a piece of lemon to avoid its blackening. If it is to be cooked whole, as sometimes happens, wrap it in a napkin, that it may be easily handled; if not, cut it into pieces. In either case, plunge it immediately into a boiling _blanc_ (No. 167). With a view of keeping the calf’s head from contact with the air, which would blacken it, cover it with a napkin, or cover the liquid with chopped suet. A layer of chopped suet is the best possible means of keeping the air from the calf’s head. Whatever be the method of serving calf’s head, it is the rule to send slices of tongue and collops of brain to the table with it. The tongue may be cooked simultaneously with the head, and the brain is poached as described under No. 1289. 1210—TÊTE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE Calf’s head _à l’anglaise_ is cooked in a _blanc_, as explained above; but in halves and unboned. Dish it on a napkin with sprays of very green parsley and a piece of boiled bacon. Send a sauceboat of parsley sauce (No. 119a) to the table at the same time. 1211—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_ as already directed. Suppress portions of the meat, where the latter is thick, in such wise as to leave only a very little on the skin. Cut off pieces into squares of one, two or three in. side; put them in a timbale, and cover them with a financière garnish; adding a few small slices of tongue and brain. 1212—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA POULETTE Cook the calf’s head in a _blanc_. Cut the pieces of the head into small slices, somewhat aslant, and toss them into a previously-prepared poulette sauce (No. 101). Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley. 1213—TÊTE DE VEAU EN TORTUE With a round cutter one, two, or three in. in diameter, cut up the pieces of calf’s head, the meat of which must be entirely suppressed. For this preparation, only the skin of the head should be used. Put the pieces of head in a timbale or on a dish, and cover them with a Tortue garnish. _Tortue garnish consists of_: Small quenelles of veal forcemeat with butter; cock’s combs and kidneys; small mushrooms; stoned, stuffed and poached olives; slices of truffle; gherkins cut to the shape of olives (these should only be put into the sauce at the last moment); and Tortue sauce. This garnish comprises, besides, among unsauced ingredients: Slices of tongue and calf’s brain; small, trussed crayfish, cooked in _court-bouillon_; fried eggs, the half of whose raw whites should be suppressed; and small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in butter at the last moment. 1214—TÊTE DE VEAU A LA VINAIGRETTE OU A L’HUILE Set the boiling pieces of calf’s head on a napkin, lying on a dish. Surround them with slices of tongue, collops of brain, and sprigs of very green, curled-leaf parsley. Serve separately, on a hors-d’œuvre dish, without mixing them, capers, chopped onion and parsley. Send to the table at the same time a sauceboat of vinaigrette or sauce à l’huile, prepared by mixing one part of vinegar, two parts of oil, and one part of the calf’s-head cooking-liquor, together with the necessary salt and pepper. 1215—ESCALOPES DE VEAU Collops of veal may be cut from either the fillet or the saddle; but they are more often cut from the cushion. Their weight varies from three to four oz., and they should always be cleared of all connective tissue. They may be fashioned to the shape of ovals, or curve-based triangles, and they should be more or less flattened, according to their use. Thus, when they are to be plainly tossed, to be afterwards served with a sauced garnish or with a sauce, they are simply beaten in order to break the fibres of the meat, without flattening the latter too much; but if, on the contrary, they are to be treated _à l’anglaise_, they should be beaten very thin with the moistened beater. In either case, they should be cooked somewhat quickly in clarified butter; for, if their cooking lag at all, their meat hardens. All the garnishes of veal cutlets, and a large number of those of the cushion, may be served with the collops. These garnishes may be set on the same dish with the collops when the latter are plainly tossed; but, in the case of collops treated _à l’anglaise_, the garnish or sauce which accompanies them should be served separately, lest its moisture soften the crisp coating of the collops. 1216—GRENADINS Grenadins are veal collops larded with rows of very thin bacon strips, and cut somewhat thicker than ordinary collops. They are really small fricandeaux, the braising of which is a comparatively lengthy operation; for their cooking must be the same as that of the fricandeaux, and needs quite as much attention. In order that the grenadins be not too dry, they should be frequently basted with their braising-liquor. When they are cooked, glaze them rapidly, and dish them with one of the garnishes given for the cushion of veal. 1217—GRENADINS FROIDS EN BELLEVUE This dish may be prepared in several more or less complicated ways; here is a simple way:— Take as many shell-shaped hors-d’œuvre dishes as there are grenadins. Let a thin coat of jelly set on the bottom of each, and set thereon a slight decoration composed of bits of carrot, turnip, peas, French beans in lozenge-form, &c. Put a grenadin, larded side undermost (_i.e._, upside down) into each hors-d’œuvre dish; add enough melted aspic jelly to reach half-way up the thickness of the grenadin. When this jelly has set, lay on it, all round the grenadin, a border consisting of carrots, turnips, French beans and peas. Sprinkle these vegetables with a few drops of jelly, so as to fix them, and keep them from floating, and then fill up the hors-d’œuvre dishes with jelly. When about to serve, dip the hors-d’œuvre dishes into hot water; turn out the grenadins on a very cold dish, and arrange them on it to form a crown. Surround with a border of very clear, chopped aspic jelly. 1218—RIS DE VEAU (Sweetbreads) Veal sweetbreads may be looked upon as one of the greatest delicacies in butchers’ meats, and may be served at any dinner, however sumptuous. Select them very white, entirely free of blood stains, and leave them to soak in fresh water, which should be frequently changed, for as long as possible; or, better still, place them under a running tap. To _blanch_ them (an operation the purpose of which is to harden the surface) put them in a saucepan with enough cold water to cover them completely, and bring to the boil gently. Let them boil for ten minutes; withdraw them and plunge them into a basin of fresh water. When the sweetbreads are cold, trim them; that is to say, cut away all cartilaginous and connective tissue; lay them between two pieces of linen, and put them under a light weight for two hours. Now lard them with fine bacon, tongue or truffle, subject to the way in which they are to be served. They may also be studded with either tongue or truffles, or they may be left unlarded and unstudded, and plainly braised, just as they are. Certain it is, that neither studding nor larding enhances in any way whatsoever their quality or sightliness. Veal sweetbread consists of two parts, as unequal in quality as in shape. They are: the “kernel” or heart sweetbread, which is the round and most delicate part, and the “throat,” or throat sweetbread, which is the elongated part, and not of such fine quality as the former. In a well-ordered dinner, heart sweetbreads only should be used, as far as possible. There are three ways of cooking sweetbreads, viz.:—Braising (No. 248), poaching (No. 249), and grilling (No. 259). In the following recipes, therefore, the reader will kindly refer to the directions given under one of the numbers just mentioned, according as to whether the dish is to be a braising, a poaching, or a grill. 1219—ATTEREAUX DE RIS DE VEAU A LA VILLEROY Cut some veal sweetbreads (preferably the throat kind) into roundels one and one-third in. in diameter and one-third in. thick. Prepare an equal number of mushrooms and truffle roundels, somewhat thinner than those of sweetbread. Impale these roundels on little wooden skewers, the size of matches, and about four in. long; alternating the different products in so doing. Dip these skewers into a Villeroy sauce, and set them on a dish. When the sauce is quite cold, remove the attereaux; clear them of any superfluous sauce that may have fallen on to the dish; dip them in an _anglaise_ (No. 174); roll them in very fine and fresh bread-crumbs, and turn them with the fingers, so as to shape them like small cylinders. Plunge them into plenty of hot fat eight minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; carefully withdraw the wooden skewers and put little silver ones in their place. Dish the attereaux on a folded napkin, with fried parsley in the centre; or set them upright in a circle, on a rice or semolina cushion lying on a dish, and put some very green, fried parsley in the middle. Serve a Périgueux sauce separately. 1220—CHARTREUSE DE RIS DE VEAU Prepare (1) one and one-quarter lbs. of fine forcemeat with cream (No. 194); (2) two poached, veal throat sweetbreads, cut into slices; (3) one-half lb. of cooked mushrooms, cut into large slices, and three oz. of sliced truffles; (4) a garnish of carrots and turnips, raised by means of a tube- or spoon-cutter, or cut into grooved roundels two-thirds inch in diameter; and peas and French beans. Each of these vegetables should be cooked in a way befitting its nature, and kept somewhat firm. Liberally butter a quart Charlotte-mould. Line its bottom and sides with the vegetables, arranged in alternate and vari-coloured rows, and spread thereon a layer of forcemeat, one-half inch thick. This done, set upon the layer of forcemeat just spread, another of slices of sweetbread, mushrooms, and truffles; cover the whole with a coat of forcemeat; start the operation again with a litter of sweetbread, mushroom, and truffle slices, and proceed as before until the mould is filled. Finish with a layer of forcemeat. Cover with a round piece of buttered paper, and set to poach in a _bain-marie_ and in the oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes. When taking the _chartreuse_ out of the _bain-marie_, let it stand for seven or eight minutes, that the ingredients inside may settle a little, and then turn it out in the middle of a round dish; place a large, cooked, grooved, and very white mushroom on the top of it, and encircle its base with a crown of small braised and well-trimmed half-lettuces. Send to the table, separately, a sauceboat of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence. 1221—RIS DE VEAU BONNE MAMAN Cut the vegetables intended for the braising stock into a short and coarse _julienne_, and add thereto an equal quantity of similarly-cut celery. Braise the veal sweetbreads with this _julienne_, after the manner described under No. 248, and moisten with excellent veal stock. Take particular care of the vegetables, that they do not burn. When the sweetbreads are ready, glaze them and dish them in a shallow, round _cocotte_ with the _julienne_ of vegetables and the braising-liquor all round. Cover the _cocotte_, and serve it on a folded napkin. 1222—CRÉPINETTE DE RIS DE VEAU For this dish take either some white throat sweetbreads, or some remains of the latter, from which slices have already been cut. Chop up the throat sweetbreads or the remains, together with their weight of raw calf’s udder. Season with one-half oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; add five oz. of chopped truffles and two whole eggs per lb. of the mince-meat. Mix the whole well; divide it up into portions weighing three oz., and wrap each portion in a piece of very soft pig’s caul. Sprinkle with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and grill gently. Dish in the form of a crown, and serve a Périgueux sauce at the same time. 1223—RIS DE VEAU A LA CÉVENOLE Braise the veal sweetbreads and glaze them at the last moment. Dish them with a heap of small glazed onions at either end, and serve, at the same time, a purée of chestnuts and a sauceboat of thickened gravy. 1224—RIS DE VEAU DEMIDOFF Lard the sweetbreads with bacon and truffles; braise them brown, and only half-cook them. Then place them in a shallow _cocotte_, and surround them with the following garnish:—Two oz. of carrots and the same weight of turnips, both cut into grooved crescents; an equal quantity of small onions, cut into large roundels, and some celery cut _paysanne_-fashion. All these vegetables should be first stewed in butter. Add the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, and one oz. of minced truffles, and complete the cooking of the former. Clear of all grease and serve in the _cocotte_. 1225—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU BÉRENGÈRE Braise the veal sweetbreads and cut each piece into four medium-sized slices. Trim each slice with an even, oval fancy-cutter; and, by means of a piping-bag fitted with an even pipe, one-sixth inch in diameter, garnish the edge of each slice with a thick border of _mousseline_ forcemeat, combined with chopped salted tongue. Set the slices on a tray, and put them in a moderate oven to poach the forcemeat. Now, by means of another piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, garnish the centre of the slices with a nice rosette of fine and very white Soubise purée; and, in the middle of each rosette, place a little ball of very black truffle. Set each slice on a thin, oval _croûton_ of the same size as the former and fried in butter. Serve at the same time, in a sauceboat, the braising-liquor of the sweetbreads, cleared of all grease, and a timbale of fresh peas. 1226—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FAVORITE _Blanch_ the veal sweetbreads; cool them under pressure, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and toss them in clarified butter. At the same time, toss an equal number of slices of foie gras of the same size as those of the sweetbread, after having seasoned and dredged them. Dish in a circle, alternating the foie gras and the sweetbread slices; put a crown of sliced truffle on the circle already arranged; and, in the centre, pour a garnish of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. Send, separately, a Madeira sauce flavoured with truffle essence. 1227—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU GRAND DUC _Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Season the latter and cook them in butter without colouration. Dish them in the form of a crown, placing a large slice of truffle between each; coat with Mornay sauce, and glaze quickly. When taking the dish out of the oven, arrange a heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter, in the middle of the dish, and serve instantly. 1228—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU JUDIC _Blanch_ and cool the sweetbreads, and cut them into slices. Prepare and poach a roll of chicken forcemeat, large enough to allow of slices being cut therefrom of the same size as those of the sweetbreads. Season, dredge, and toss the slices of sweetbread in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown, each on a roundel of the poached chicken forcemeat. On each slice place a very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuce, a slice of truffle, and a cock’s kidney. Send a sauceboat of thickened gravy separately. 1229—ESCALOPES DE RIS DE VEAU A LA MARÉCHALE Braise the veal sweetbreads, keeping them somewhat firm, and cut them into slices. Treat the latter _à l’anglaise_; brown them in clarified butter, and dish them in a circle, placing a fine slice of truffle between each. In the middle of the dish arrange a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. 1230—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS After having _blanched_, cooked, and trimmed the sweetbreads, set them to get quite cold under pressure. Then cut them in two, laterally, at their thickest point; dip each piece into melted butter, and grill gently, basting frequently the while with melted butter. The sweetbreads may also be grilled whole, but the process is perforce a more lengthy one. 1231—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS CARMAGO Cook a brioche, without sugar, in a fluted mould, the aperture of which is a little larger than the veal sweetbreads. Carefully remove the top of the brioche, following the direction of the fluting, and withdraw all the crumb from the inside. Fill this kind of _croustade_, two-thirds full, with a garnish consisting of peas, prepared “à la française,” and carrots “à la Vichy,” in equal quantities. Set the grilled veal sweetbreads on this garnish, and cover it with slices of grilled bacon. Dish on a napkin and serve at once. 1232—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ GISMONDA Prepare a shallow _croustade_, without colouration, in an oval flawn ring of the same length as the veal sweetbread. Grill the veal sweetbread after the manner already described. Garnish the bottom of the _croustade_ with equal quantities of artichoke-bottoms and mushrooms, minced raw, tossed in butter, and cohered with cream sauce. Set the grilled sweetbread on the garnish, and place the _croustade_ on a folded napkin. Serve, separately, a slightly buttered meat-glaze. 1233—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉ JOCELYNE Cut some potatoes into roundels one and one-half inch thick and of the same size as the veal sweetbread. Stamp the roundels, close up to their edges, with a round, even cutter, and cook them in butter. Grill the sweetbread at the same time. When the potatoes are cooked, withdraw all their inside in such wise as to give them the appearance of cases, and fill them with Soubise prepared with curry. Dish them and set the grilled sweetbread upon them. On the sweetbread lay a small half-tomato and a green half-capsicum, both grilled. 1234—RIS DE VEAU GRILLÉS SAINT-GERMAIN _Blanch_, prepare, and grill the veal sweetbreads as already explained. Set them on a long dish, and surround them with alternate heaps of small potatoes cooked in butter and of a nice golden colour, and carrots cut to the shape of elongated olives, cooked in consommé and glazed. Serve a Béarnaise sauce and a purée of fresh peas, separately. 1235—RIS DE VEAU DES GOURMETS Braise the veal sweetbreads, and, as soon as they are ready, set them in a round, flat _cocotte_, just large enough to hold them. Cover them with raw truffles, cut into thick slices; strain the braising-liquor over the whole; cover the _cocotte_, and seal the cover to the edges of the utensil by means of a thread of soft paste, made simply from a mixture of flour and water. The object of this last precaution is to prevent any escape whatsoever of steam, and to hold the aroma of the truffles within. Put the _cocotte_ into a very hot oven for ten minutes; set it on a dish, and serve it as it stands. The cover should be removed only when the dish reaches the table. 1236—RIS DE VEAU AUX QUEUES D’ÉCREVISSES Stud the sweetbreads with truffle and braise them without colouration. Dish them, and, on either side, set a heap of crayfishes’ tails (in the proportion of four to each person), cohered with cream. At either end place some crayfishes’ carapaces (in the proportion of two to each sweetbread), garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with crayfish butter, and poached. Serve, separately, an Allemande sauce prepared with crayfish butter. 1237—RIS DE VEAU A LA RÉGENCE Stud the sweetbreads with truffles, and braise them without colouration. Dish them; pour their reduced braising-liquor round the dish, and surround them with a Régence garnish, arranged in alternate heaps representing the constituents of the former, which are: quenelles of fine truffled chicken forcemeat; small grooved mushrooms; curled cocks’ combs, and truffles cut to the shape of olives. Serve separately an Allemande sauce, flavoured with truffle essence. 1238—RIS DE VEAU SOUS LA CENDRE Stud the veal sweetbreads with truffles and tongue, and three-parts braise them. Cut some slices of salted tongue of the same size as the sweetbreads, garnish them with slices of truffle, and set a sweetbread on each. Cover each sweetbread with a layer of short paste (No. 2358); set them on a tray; _gild_; flute; make a small incision on the top of the paste to allow the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for thirty minutes. When withdrawing them from the oven, pour in some half-glaze sauce with Madeira, and dish them on a napkin. 1239—RIS DE VEAU A LA TOULOUSAINE Stud the sweetbreads with truffles and braise them without colouration. Dish them with the Toulousaine garnish, arranged in heaps all round, and surround the latter with a thread of meat-glaze. _Toulousaine garnish_ comprises small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; cocks’ combs and kidneys; very white button-mushroom heads, and slices of truffle. Serve, separately, an Allemande flavoured with mushroom essence. 1240—CROUSTADE DE RIS DE VEAU A LA FINANCIÈRE Prepare (1) the required number of small, fluted _croustades_, baked without colouration in rather large tartlet moulds. (2) The same number of slices of braised veal sweetbread as there are _croustades_, and of the same size. (3) A financière garnish, consisting of very small chicken-forcemeat quenelles; grooved button-mushrooms, and sliced cocks’ combs and kidneys. The whole covered by half-glaze with Madeira, in the proportion of one tablespoonful per _croustade_. (5) As many fine slices of truffle as there are _croustades_. Put a tablespoonful of the garnish into each _croustade_; set thereon a slice of sweetbread; put a slice of truffle upon that, and dish the _croustades_ on a folded napkin. 1241—PÂTÉ CHAUD DE RIS DE VEAU Butter an ordinary round hot raised pie, or a Charlotte-mould. Take about one and one-half lbs. of short paste and roll it into _galettes_, one-third inch thick; fold the paste over after having dredged it slightly; draw the two ends gently towards the centre, to form a kind of skullcap, which, when placed in the mould, immediately lines the latter. Avoid making folds in the paste while preparing the skullcap, for they would spoil the look of the patty when turned out. Press the paste on the bottom and sides of the mould, that the latter may impart its shape to its lining, and cut the projecting paste to within half inch of the brim. Now coat the bottom and sides of the mould with a layer of chicken forcemeat, of an even thickness of two-thirds of an inch. Pour into the centre of the mould a garnish composed of slices of poached veal sweetbread; sliced and cooked mushrooms and sliced truffles; the whole covered with reduced and somewhat stiff Allemande sauce, flavoured with mushroom essence. Cover the garnish with a coating of forcemeat, and close the patty with a layer of paste, the edges of which should be moistened and sealed down all round the brim of the mould. Pinch the rim of paste inside and outside, and finish off with leaves of paste stamped out with a fancy-cutter, ribbed by means of the back of a knife, and laid upon the paste cover. _Gild_ with beaten egg; make a central slit for the escape of steam, and set to bake in a hot oven, for from forty-five to fifty minutes. When taking the patty out of the oven, turn it out and dish it on a napkin. 1242—TIMBALE DE RIS DE VEAU Butter a timbale mould and decorate its sides with thin pieces of noodle paste, in the shape of lozenges, crescents, indented rings, discs and imitation-leaves. Excellent ornamental arrangements may be effected thus; but the reader should bear in mind that the simplest are the best. Prepare a skullcap of paste as explained under No. 1241; slightly moisten the ornamental work in the mould, that it may cling to the paste of the timbale, and line the latter with paste which should be well pressed in all directions, that it may take the shape of the mould. Then pierce the paste on the bottom, to prevent its blistering during the baking process; line the bottom and sides with buttered paper, and fill the timbale, three-quarters full, with split peas or lentils. Cover the latter with a round piece of paper, and close the timbale by means of a round layer of paste, which should be sealed down round the edges. Make and trim the crest of the timbale; pinch it inside and out, and finish the cover, by means of applied imitation-leaves of paste, superposed to form a kind of dome. Set in a moderate oven, and when the timbale is baked, remove its cover with the view of withdrawing the lentils or peas and the paper, the sole object of which was to provide a support for the cover. Besmear the inside of the timbale with a brush dipped in the beaten white of an egg; keep it for a minute or two in front of the oven, with the view of drying it inside; turn it out, and spread upon its bottom and sides a very thin coat of chicken or ordinary forcemeat, the purpose of which is to shield the crust from the softening effects of the juices of the garnish. Put the timbale in the front of the oven for a moment or two, that this coating of forcemeat may poach. _Garnish._—Veal sweetbreads, braised without colouration and cut into collops; small mushrooms; cocks’ combs and kidneys; small quenelles of chicken, _mousseline_ forcemeat, or roundels of chicken forcemeat rolls one-third inch thick, trimmed with the fancy-cutter; and slices of truffles, half of which should be kept for the purposes of decoration. Cover this garnish with Allemande sauce, prepared with mushroom essence. Pour it into the timbale, just before serving; upon it set the reserved slices of truffle, in the form of a crown; replace the cover; dish upon a folded napkin, and serve. N.B. (1) As already stated the garnish of the timbale may be cohered with a half-glaze sauce, flavoured with Madeira or truffle essence. (2) In this garnish, whether it be cohered by means of a white or brown sauce, the slices of veal sweetbreads are always the principal ingredient; but, subject to the circumstances, the other details may be altered or modified. 1243—VOL AU VENT DE RIS DE VEAU Vol au vent, which formerly held the place of honour on bourgeois menus, has now fallen somewhat into the background; nevertheless, I wished it to appear among the recipes in this work. _The preparation of the paste_: Make the vol au vent crust as explained under No. 2390. _Garnish._—Prepare it exactly as explained under “Timbale de ris de Veau.” This garnish may also be cohered with a brown sauce, and its minor ingredients may be modified; but the slices of veal sweetbread must always stand as the dominating element. Whatever be the selected kind of garnish, vol au vent should always be accompanied by medium-sized, trussed crayfish, cooked in _court-bouillon_. _Dishing._—Set the vol au vent crust upon a dish covered with a napkin; pour the garnish into it; decorate with slices of truffle; arrange the crayfish round the edge, and lay the cover upon the crayfish. 1244—RIS DE VEAU A LA RICHELIEU Braise the veal sweetbreads exactly as described under “Ris de Veau Bonne Maman,” taking care to keep the braising-liquor sufficiently plentiful to well cover the sweetbreads in the _cocotte_. When the sweetbreads are in the _cocotte_, together with the _julienne_ of vegetables and a _julienne_ of truffles, strain the braising-liquor over the whole; leave to cool well, and, when the liquid has turned to a jelly, remove the grease that has risen to the surface. Dish the _cocotte_ on a napkin. 1245—RIS DE VEAU A LA SUÉDOISE Poach the veal sweetbreads without colouration, and, when they are quite cold, cut them into thin and regular collops. Spread some horse-radish butter over the latter, and cover with a slice of tongue of the same size as the underlying collop. Bake a crust without colouration in a flawn ring, of a size in proportion to the number of slices, and garnish it with a vegetable salad cohered with mayonnaise. This crust must necessarily be made in advance. Upon the salad now set the collops, either in the form of a crown or in that of a small turban; in the middle place a fine lettuce heart, the leaves of which should be slightly opened out. 1246—PALETS DE RIS DE VEAU A L’ÉCARLATE Poach the sweetbreads; when they are cold, cut them into collops half-an-inch thick, and trim them with a round, even cutter. Stamp out some roundels of salted tongue with the same cutter, but let them be only one-eighth inch thick, and twice as many as the collops of veal sweetbread. Coat the latter, on either side, with butter prepared with mustard; and cover with a roundel of tongue. Set the prepared collops on a tray; let the butter harden, coat with jelly, and deck the middle of each quoit with a fine slice of truffle. Arrange the quoits in a circle on a round dish; put some chopped jelly in the centre, and border the dish with very regularly-cut jelly dice. Serve a horse-radish sauce and an Italian salad separately. =Calf’s Liver.= Calf’s liver is served chiefly as a breakfast or luncheon entrée. Nevertheless, in ordinary menus, it is sometimes served as a relevé, braised and whole. 1247—FOIE DE VEAU BRAISÉ A LA BOURGEOISE Lard the piece with large, seasoned strips of bacon, as for “Bœuf à la Mode.” Brown it slightly in the oven, and then put it into a saucepan garnished for braising. (No. 247.) Moisten with one pint of white wine, and reduce it completely. This done, moisten again with brown stock, adding one pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of the moistening. It is sufficient if the moistening and the sauce reach a little above the middle of the piece of liver. When the cooking is two-thirds completed, transfer the liver to another saucepan; surround it with carrots, shaped like elongated olives and half-cooked in consommé; and some small onions, half-cooked in butter. The amount of this garnish of carrots and onions should naturally be in proportion to the size of the piece of liver. Strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking gently in the oven. Dish the liver with the carrots and onions all round; reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the garnish. N.B. The latter need not be arranged symmetrically. On the contrary simplicity should be made a feature of these bourgeois dishes. 1248—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ANGLAISE Cut the calf’s liver into fairly thin slices, from two-and-a-half oz. to three oz. in weight. Season them with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter. Grill an equal number of rashers of bacon. Dish the slices of liver and the rashers of bacon alternately, and sprinkle them with the butter in which the liver was cooked, or with a brown butter. 1249—BROCHETTES DE FOIE DE VEAU Select a pale piece of calf’s liver and cut it into square pieces two-thirds of an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, and toss the pieces in butter, just to stiffen them. Put them into a basin with an equal quantity of _blanched_ salted breast of pork, cut into squares, and of slices of cooked mushrooms. Add a few tablespoonfuls of stiff Duxelles sauce, and toss the whole together, that each particle of the various ingredients may become coated with Duxelles. This done, impale the squares of liver and pork and the slices of mushrooms upon a ringed skewer, alternating them in so doing; sprinkle copiously with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill gently. These brochettes are served, either on a maître-d’hôtel butter, or on a Duxelles, Fines Herbes, an Italian or other sauce. 1250—FOIE DE VEAU A L’ESPAGNOLE Cut the calf’s liver into slices weighing three and a half oz.; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them; sprinkle them with oil, and grill them gently. Meanwhile, prepare:—(1) As many grilled half-tomatoes as there are pieces of liver; (2) onions cut into thin roundels, seasoned, dredged, and fried in oil; (3) a proportionate quantity of fried parsley. Arrange the grilled slices of liver along the centre of an oval dish; place a half-tomato upon each; and, on one side, set the fried onions, on the other, the fried parsley. 1251—FOIE DE VEAU SAUTÉ AUX FINES HERBES Cut the calf’s liver into slices, as above; season these with salt and pepper; dredge them, and toss them in butter. Arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; and either pour the herb sauce over the slices, or serve it separately. 1252—PAIN DE FOIE DE VEAU For a calf’s liver loaf made in a quart mould: Cut one lb. of calf’s liver into dice, and finely pound these together with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add, little by little, five oz. of very cold frangipan panada, and two eggs. Rub through a sieve; put the forcemeat in a bowl; work it over ice, and finish it with two tablespoonfuls of chopped onions, cooked in butter, without colouration; the yolks of two eggs, and quarter pint of thick cream, added by degrees. Pour this forcemeat into a well-buttered quart Charlotte-mould; knock the latter gently on a folded serviette, with the view of settling its contents, and put it to poach in the oven in a _bain-marie_, for about forty-five minutes. When taking the loaf out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes, that the forcemeat inside may thoroughly settle; turn it out on a round dish, and cover it with a Duxelles, Italienne, Bordelaise, brown caper, or other sauce. 1253—CÔTES DE VEAU Veal cutlets may either be grilled or _sautéd_, but the second method of cooking them is, in most cases, preferable. When they are _sautéd_, the cutlets should be cooked in clarified butter, over a somewhat fierce fire and in a utensil large enough to hold them without crowding. This done, dish them; pour away the butter in which they have been cooked; swill the saucepan, _i.e._, dissolve the concentrated gravy adhering to the sides and bottom of it with a liquid in keeping with the garnish; either mushroom cooking-liquor, white or red wine, or Madeira, etc.; and add this swilling-liquor, reduced, to the accompanying sauce. The latter is generally a buttered half-glaze, but the best adjunct to veal cutlets is a pale meat glaze, moderately buttered. All vegetable and paste garnishes, given under Cushion of Veal, suit veal cutlets. I must therefore beg the reader to refer to those recipes, as circumstances may dictate; and restrict myself to a few formulæ which, in my opinion, are suited more particularly to veal cutlets. 1254—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA BONNE FEMME Put the veal cutlet into an earthenware saucepan, with one and one-half oz. of butter, and brown it well on both sides. Add six small onions cooked in butter, three oz. of potatoes cut into roundels; and complete the cooking gently in the oven, keeping the saucepan covered. Serve the preparation in the saucepan as it stands. 1255—CÔTE DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE Heat one oz. of butter in an earthenware saucepan; insert the veal cutlet, seasoned, and cook it gently, taking care to turn it over from time to time. At the last moment, add a tablespoonful of excellent veal gravy, and serve in the saucepan. 1256—CÔTE DE VEAU EN COCOTTE A LA PAYSANNE Toss the veal cutlet in butter, in the _cocotte_, with two small slices of _blanched_ salted breast of pork. Add four small onions, and two small, long potatoes, cut _paysanne_-fashion; and complete the cooking of the cutlets and the garnish very gently in the oven. Send the preparation to the table in the _cocotte_. 1257—CÔTE DE VEAU A LA DREUX Stud the kernel of the veal cutlet with tongue, ham and truffle, and cook it gently in butter. This done, trim it to the quick on both sides, that the studding may be clean and neat; dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and, beside it, arrange a small garnish of quenelles, mushrooms, cocks’ combs and kidneys, and turned and _blanched_ olives. Pour a little half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, over the garnish. 1258—CÔTE DE VEAU MILANAISE With a moistened butcher’s beater, flatten the meat in suchwise as to reduce it to half its normal thickness. Dip the veal cutlet into beaten egg; roll it in bread-crumbs, mixed with half as much grated Parmesan, and cook it in clarified butter, or butter and oil in equal quantities. Dish it with a frill on the bare bone, and the garnish beside it. _Milanaise garnish_ consists of cooked macaroni, seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg, and cohered with butter, grated Gruyère and Parmesan cheeses, and very red tomato purée; and combined with a _julienne_ of very lean cooked ham, salted tongue, mushrooms and truffles, heated in Madeira. 1259—CÔTE DE VEAU PAPILLOTE Toss the veal cutlet in butter, and prepare, meanwhile:— (1) Two tablespoonfuls of Duxelles sauce, combined with a cooked and sliced mushroom. (2) Two heart-shaped slices of ham, of about the same size as the cutlet. (3) A doubled sheet of strong paper, cut to the shape of a heart and well-oiled. Spread out the sheet of paper, and, in the middle thereof, lay a slice of ham; spread a tablespoonful of Duxelles on the latter; put the cutlet on the sauce; cover it with the remainder of the Duxelles, and finish with the other slice of ham. Fold the sheet of paper so as to enclose the whole; pleat the edges nicely; put the cutlet on a tray, and blow out the _papillote_ in a fairly hot oven. When taking it out of the oven, transfer it to a dish, and serve instantly. 1260—CÔTE DE VEAU POJARSKI Completely separate the meat of the veal cutlet from the bone; clear it of all skin and gristle, and chop it up with half its weight of butter, salt and pepper. Mass this mince-meat close up to the bone, shaping it like a cutlet, and cook the whole in clarified butter, turning it over very carefully in the process. Dish with a suitable garnish. 1261—CÔTE DE VEAU ZINGARA Cook the veal cutlet in butter; at the same time prepare a slice of raw ham, cut to the shape of the cutlet, and likewise tossed in butter. Dish the cutlet; set the slice of ham upon it, and surround with a few tablespoonfuls of Zingara sauce. _Zingara sauce is prepared thus_: Reduce a few tablespoonfuls of white wine and mushroom cooking-liquor to half. Add one-fifth pint of half-glaze, two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, one tablespoonful of veal stock, one oz. of a _julienne_ of tongue, mushrooms and truffles; and set to boil for a few seconds. 1262—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE EN BELLE VUE Let a little jelly set in a utensil somewhat resembling a cutlet in shape. Trim the veal cutlet; decorate it with various little vegetables, and sprinkle the latter with half-melted jelly, so as to fix them. Put the cutlet on the layer of set jelly, inside the utensil, and let it lie with its decorated side undermost. Add enough jelly to cover the cutlet, and let the former set. This done, pass the blade of a small knife (dipped in hot water) round the cutlet; set the utensil for a moment upon a napkin dipped in hot water, turn out the cutlet with care, and set it on a cold dish, with a border of chopped aspic, and a frill on the bone. 1263—CÔTE DE VEAU FROIDE RUBENS Trim the veal cutlet; coat it with half-melted aspic, and cover it with young hop shoots, cohered with tomato sauce cleared by means of aspic. Let the sauce thoroughly set, and then put the cutlet between two layers of aspic as explained above. N.B. Cold veal cutlets may also be served Belle-vue fashion, after the very simple manner described under “Grenadins en Belle-vue” (No. 1217). 1264—ROGNON DE VEAU When _sautéd_ after the usual manner, veal kidney admits of all the preparations given for sheep’s kidney. (See the chapter on Mutton.) I shall now, therefore, only give those recipes which are proper to veal kidney. 1265—ROGNON DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE Trim the veal kidney and only leave a very slight layer of fat all round it. Heat one oz. of butter in a small, earthenware saucepan, also called “cocotte”; put the seasoned kidney into the latter, and cook it gently for about thirty minutes, taking care to turn it often the while. At the last minute sprinkle it with a tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve it in the _cocotte_ as it stands. 1266—ROGNON DE VEAU EN COCOTTE Prepare the veal kidney and fry it in butter, as in the case of the “en casserole” dish. Surround it with one and one-half oz. of small pieces of _blanched_ bacon, tossed in butter; one and one-half oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms, also tossed, and one and one-half oz. of small _blanched_ potatoes, of the size and shape of garlic cloves, and the same quantity of small, glazed onions. Complete the cooking of the whole gently. At the last minute, add a tablespoonful of good, veal gravy, and serve the _cocotte_ as it stands. 1267—ROGNON DE VEAU GRILLÉ Trim the veal kidney, and leave a slight layer of fat all round it. Cut it in half lengthwise, without completely separating the two halves, and impale it on a small skewer, with the view of keeping it in shape. Season with salt and pepper, and grill it gently; basting it often the while with melted butter. Send separately, either a Maître-d’hôtel, a Bercy, or other butter suited to grills. 1268—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA LIÉGEOISE Prepare the veal kidney as for “_en casserole_.” One minute before serving, add one small wineglassful of burned gin, two crushed juniper berries, and one tablespoonful of good veal gravy. Serve in the cooking-utensil. 1269—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA MONTPENSIER Trim the veal kidney, leaving a slight coating of fat all round it, and cut into five or six slices. Season the latter, toss them in butter over a brisk fire, and transfer them to a plate. Swill the saucepan with one tablespoonful of Madeira, and add thereto three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, a few drops of lemon juice, one and one-half oz. of butter, and a pinch of chopped parsley. Dish the pieces of kidney, or set them in a timbale; sprinkle them with the sauce, and in their midst set a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices. 1270—ROGNON DE VEAU PORTUGAISE Cut up the veal kidney, and toss it in butter, after the manner described under No. 1269. Dish the pieces in a circle on a dish; set a very small, stuffed half-tomato upon each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a very reduced tomato _fondue_. Surround the kidney with a sauce prepared as directed above. 1271—ROGNON DE VEAU A LA ROBERT Heat one oz. of butter in a small _cocotte_; put the seasoned veal kidney therein; fry it over a brisk fire, and set it to cook in the oven for about fifteen minutes. Serve the kidney as it leaves the oven, and complete the procedure, at the table, in the following manner:— Transfer the kidney to a hot plate. Place the _cocotte_ on a spirit lamp; pour into the former one glassful of excellent liqueur brandy, and reduce to half. Meanwhile, quickly cut the kidney into extremely thin slices, and cover these with an overturned plate. Add to the reduced liqueur brandy one coffeespoonful of mustard, one oz. of butter cut into small pieces, the juice of a quarter of a lemon, and a pinch of chopped parsley; and work the whole well with a fork, with the view of effecting the leason. Put the sliced kidney into this sauce, together with the gravy that has drained from it; heat the whole well, without boiling, and serve on very hot plates. 1272—TENDRONS DE VEAU The tendrons are cut from breast of veal. They are, in fact, the extreme ends of the ribs, including the cartilage of the sternum. If the tendrons are braised, treat them after the manner described under “The Braising of White Meats” (No. 248); or, simply stew them in butter; moisten them with excellent veal stock, and baste them frequently while cooking them. They may also be treated like an ordinary veal _sauté_, from which they only differ in shape, and the various preparations of which may be adapted to them. The garnishes best suited to them are those of early-season vegetables, and, as a matter of fact, the latter, together with such pastes as noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, etc., are the garnishes most often served with them. 1273—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU A L’ANCIENNE Cut the veal tendrons into pieces weighing about three oz. Then, slightly blanch them; cool them, and put them into a saucepan with enough white stock to cover; add a very little salt; set to boil, and skim. For two lbs. of tendrons, add one small carrot; one fair-sized onion, stuck with a clove; a faggot, consisting of one leek, parsley stalks, and a fragment of thyme and bay; and set to cook gently for one and one-half hours. Prepare a white roux from one and one-half oz. of butter and one and one-half oz. of flour; moisten with one pint of veal cooking-liquor; add one oz. of mushroom parings, and cook for a quarter of an hour, despumating the sauce the while. Transfer the pieces of tendron, one by one, to a sautépan with twelve small onions cooked in consommé, and fifteen small, cooked and very white mushrooms. Finish the sauce with a leason of two egg-yolks, mixed with three tablespoonfuls of cream and a few drops of lemon juice; strain it over the veal and its garnish; heat without boiling; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley. N.B. This blanquette may also be prepared with noodles or _cèpes_, instead of with ordinary mushrooms. 1274—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX CÉLERIS, CARDONS, ETC. Prepare the blanquette exactly as explained above, and set it to cook with the veal and the vegetable selected for the garnish, _i.e._, either small heads of celery cut into two or four, or cardoons, cut into pieces and well _blanched_. The endives are not _blanched_; they need only be well washed and put with the veal. When cooked, drain the vegetables, trim them, and dish them in a timbale with the veal and the sauce; the latter prepared as directed and strained over the meat. 1275—BLANQUETTE DE VEAU AUX NOUILLES Proceed as for “Blanquette à l’ancienne,” but suppress the garnish of onions and mushrooms. When the blanquette is dished, set thereon heaps of noodles, parboiled and cohered with butter, and cover these with raw noodles tossed quickly in butter; allow three oz. of tossed noodles per lb. of those cohered. 1276—FRICASSÉE DE VEAU Fricassée differs from blanquette in this, namely, that the pieces of veal in the former are stiffened in butter without colouration. When the meat has been well stiffened, besprinkle it with about one oz. of flour per lb.; cook this flour with the meat for a few minutes; then moisten the fricassée with white stock; season, and set to boil, stirring the while. All the garnishes of mushrooms and vegetables given for blanquette may be served with fricassée; but in the case of the latter, both the meat and the garnish are cooked in the sauce, the leason of which is effected by means of egg-yolks and cream, as for blanquette. 1277—FRICADELLES Fricadelles are a kind of meat balls, somewhat like those commonly prepared in private households. They are made from raw or cooked meat, in the following manner:— _Fricadelles with Raw Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing three and one-half oz., chop up one lb. of very lean veal, cleared of all fat and gristle, together with two-thirds of a lb. of butter. Put the whole into a bowl, and add thereto five oz. of soaked and well-pressed crumb of bread, two eggs, half an oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg, and two oz. of chopped onion cooked in butter without colouration. Mix the whole well, and divide it up into portions weighing three and one-half oz. Fashion these portions to the shape of quoits, by first rolling them into balls on a flour-dusted board, and afterwards flattening them out with the flat of a knife. Heat some butter or very pure fat in a sautépan; put the fricadelles therein; brown them on both sides, and then complete their cooking in the oven. This done, set them on a round dish, and serve them, either with a vegetable purée, a Piquante or a Robert sauce. _Fricadelles with Cooked Meat._—For ten fricadelles, each weighing two and one-half oz., chop one lb. of cooked veal, fat and lean, somewhat finely. Put it into a bowl with a large pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Add the pulp of three fair-sized potatoes, baked in the oven; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration; one large egg, and one tablespoonful of chopped parsley. Mix well; divide up into portions of the weight already given, and shape and cook them as in the previous case. These fricadelles are served with vegetable purées and the sauces suited to those prepared from raw meat. 1278—PAUPIETTES DE VEAU Paupiettes or scrolls are made from extremely thin slices of veal, four in. long by two in. wide. After having seasoned them, cover them with forcemeat or very fine mincemeat; roll them, with their forcemeat-coat inside, into scrolls, and tie them round, once or twice, with string, that they may keep their shape while cooking. They are sometimes covered with thin rashers of bacon. Paupiettes are always braised, gently and protractedly. They are generally garnished with vegetable purées; but they may be served just as well with all vegetable garnishes. By making them half the usual size, they may, after having been braised, serve as the garnish for a timbale, together with noodles, gniokis, spaghetti, or with Financière, Milanaise or Napolitaine garnish, etc. 1279—SAUTÉS DE VEAU The pieces best suited to veal _sautés_ are: the breast and the shoulder, as also those parts of the haunch other than the cushion and undercushion. 1280—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA MARENGO Heat one pint of oil in a sautépan, until it smokes. Put therein two lbs. of veal, cut into pieces, each weighing two oz., and fry until the latter are well set. Add a chopped half onion and a crushed half-clove of garlic, and fry again for a few moments. Drain away the oil, tilting the sautépan with its lid on, for the purpose; moisten with a quarter of a pint of white wine; reduce, and add two-thirds of a quart of thin Espagnole sauce, one and one-half lbs. of tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces (or one pint of tomato sauce), and a faggot. Set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours. At the end of that time, transfer the pieces of veal, one by one, to another saucepan with fifteen small glazed onions, and five oz. of mushrooms. Reduce the sauce; strain it over the veal and its garnish, add two large pinches of _concassed_ parsley, and cook for a further quarter of an hour. When about to serve, clear of all grease, dish in a timbale, and surround with small heart-shaped _croûtons_ of bread-crumb, fried in oil. 1281—SAUTÉ DE VEAU CHASSEUR Cut the veal into pieces as above, and fry these well in butter or oil. Drain away the grease; moisten with one quart of brown stock, add two tablespoonfuls of tomato purée, and a faggot; set to boil, and cook in the oven gently for one and one-half hours. Transfer the pieces to another saucepan; strain; reduce their cooking-liquor by a quarter, and add it to one-quarter of a pint of Chasseur sauce (No. 33). Pour this sauce over the pieces of veal, and cook again for a quarter of an hour. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. 1282—SAUTÉ DE VEAU PRINTANIER Fry the pieces of veal in butter. Moisten with two-thirds of a quart of brown stock and one-fifth of a pint of half-glaze; add a faggot; boil, and cook in the oven gently for one hour. This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add thereto a garnish of carrots, new turnips, and small, new potatoes; strain the sauce over the veal and the garnish, and cook for a further three-quarters of an hour. Dish in a timbale and distribute over the _sauté_ a few tablespoonfuls of peas and French beans in lozenge-form, both cooked _à l’anglaise_. 1283—SAUTÉ DE VEAU A LA CATALANE Cut up, _sauté_, and cook the veal gently for one and one-half hours, as for No. 1280. Transfer the pieces of veal to another saucepan, and add to them three small peeled and pressed tomatoes, quartered and tossed in butter; ten small onions cooked in butter; six oz. of raw, quartered mushrooms; ten chestnuts, three-parts cooked in consommé, and eight Chipolata sausages. Reduce the sauce to one-third of a pint; strain it over the veal and its garnish; cook for a further quarter of an hour, and dish in a timbale. 1284—SAUTÉS DE VEAU DIVERS Veal _sauté_ may also be prepared with mushrooms, _fines herbes_, egg-plant, tomatoes, or “Currie à l’Indienne,” etc. 1285—PAIN DE VEAU Prepare “Pain de Veau” exactly as directed under No. 1252; but substitute for the liver some very white veal. Pain de veau is generally accompanied by a white sauce, such as velouté prepared with mushroom essence, Allemande sauce prepared with mushrooms, Suprême sauce, etc. 1286—CALF’S FEET Calf’s feet serve chiefly in supplying the gelatinous element of aspics, and the body of braising stock. They are rarely used in the preparation of a special dish; but, should they be so used, they may be cooked and served after the manner directed in the recipes treating of calf’s head. 1287—CALVES’ TONGUES Provided the difference of size be allowed for, calf’s tongue may be prepared like ox tongue, and served with the same garnishes. (See Ox Tongue, Nos. 1153 to 1158 inclusive.) 1288—CALF’S BRAINS AND AMOURETTES Calf’s brains form the most wholesome and reparative diet for all those who are debilitated by excessive head-work; and the same remark applies to the brains of the ox and the sheep. The amourettes mentioned here, which almost always accompany ox brains, are only the spinal marrow of the ox or the calf. This may be used in the preparation of a few special dishes; but all the recipes dealing with brains may be applied to it. 1289—THE COOKING OF BRAINS Carefully remove the membrane enveloping the brains or the amourettes, and put them to soak in fresh water, until they are quite white. Put the brains in a saucepan with enough boiling _court-bouillon_ (No. 163) to cover them well; skim and then set to cook gently. Brains have this peculiarity, namely, that prolonged cooking only stiffens them; thus, calf’s brains only take half an hour to cook; but they may cook for two hours more without harm, seeing that the process only tends to make them firmer. 1290—CERVELLE A LA BEAUMONT Cut the brains into slices; on each slice put a layer of _gratin_ force-meat (No. 202) prepared from foie gras and softened by means of a little cold, brown sauce, and a slice of truffle. Reconstruct the brains by putting the coated slices together again. Roll some puff-paste remains into a _galette_ one-fifth of an inch thick, the diameter of which should be in proportion to the size of the brains under treatment. Put the brains in the middle of the _galette_, and cover them with the same forcemeat as that laid on the slices; sprinkle with chopped truffles; moisten the edges of the paste, and draw these over the brains so as to enclose the latter completely. _Gild_; make a slit in the top for the escape of steam, and bake in a hot oven for fifteen minutes. After taking the pie out of the oven, pour a few tablespoonfuls of Périgueux sauce into the former, and dish on a napkin. 1291—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOIR Slice the brains; set the slices on a dish, and season them with salt and pepper. Cook two oz. of butter in the frying-pan until it is slightly blackened; throw therein a pinch of parsley _pluches_, and sprinkle the brains with this butter. Pour a few drops of vinegar into the burning frying-pan, and add it to the brains. 1292—CERVELLE AU BEURRE NOISETTE Slice and season the brains as above. Cook the butter until it has acquired a golden colour and exhales a nutty smell; pour it over the brains, and finish with a few drops of lemon juice and a pinch of chopped parsley. 1293—CERVELLE A LA MARÉCHALE Cut the brains into regular slices, one-third of an inch thick; treat them _à l’anglaise_ with very fine bread-crumbs, and brown them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a circle, with a slice of truffle on each, and garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. 1294—CERVELLE A LA POULETTE Prepare half a pint of poulette sauce (No. 101), combined with three oz. of small, cooked, and very white mushrooms. Add the brains, cut into slices; toss them gently in the sauce, taking care lest they break; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley. 1295—CERVELLE A LA VILLEROY Cut the raw brains into slices; season them, and poach them in butter. Dip the slices into an almost cold Villeroy sauce, in suchwise as to cover them with a thick coating of it. Leave to cool, and treat them _à l’anglaise_. Set to cook for a few minutes before serving, and dish on a napkin with fried parsley. Serve a light Périgueux sauce separately. 1296—VOL AU VENT DE CERVELLE Prepare a vol-au-vent crust, as explained under No. 2390. Slice the brains, and put the slices into half-a-pint of Allemande sauce, with twelve quenelles of ordinary forcemeat, poached just before dishing up; four oz. of small, cooked mushrooms, and one oz. of truffle slices, five or six of which should be reserved. Pour the garnish into the vol au vent; set upon the latter the reserved slices of truffle, and dish on a folded napkin. 1297—AMOURETTES A LA TOSCA Poach one lb. of _amourettes_, as explained above, and cut them into lengths of one in. Prepare a garnish of macaroni cohered with butter and grated Parmesan, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of a crayfish cullis per four oz. of macaroni; three crayfishes’ tails for each person, and two-thirds of the pieces of _amourettes_. Toss well, in order to thoroughly mix the whole; dish in a timbale; cover the macaroni with what remains of the pieces of _amourettes_, and cover them slightly with crayfish cullis. MUTTON, GRASS LAMB AND HOUSE LAMB =Relevés and Entrées.= From the culinary standpoint, the ovine species supplies three kinds of meat, viz:— _Mutton_—properly so-called when the meat is derived from the adult animal. _Lamb_—the young, weaned sheep, not yet fully grown, the meat of which is the more highly esteemed the younger the animal is. _House Lamb_—the sheep’s unweaned young that has not yet grazed. The “Pauillac” lamb, which is imported from France, is the most excellent example of the last kind. Good house lambs are also killed in England; they are quite equal to Pauillac lamb, but their season is short. As regards ordinary English mutton and lamb, however, the delicacy and quality of these meats are unrivalled. But for its greater delicacy and tenderness, grass lamb, which corresponds with what the French call “agneau de pré-salé” is scarcely distinguishable from mutton. The recipes suited to it are the same as those given for mutton; and all that is necessary is to allow for differences of quality in calculating the time of cooking. House lamb, the white flesh of which is quite different, admits of some of the mutton recipes; but it is generally prepared after special formulæ, the details of which I shall give hereafter. When served roasted, hot or cold, mutton and grass and house lamb are always accompanied by mint sauce, the recipe for which I gave under No. 136. In view of the similarity of their preparations, and in order to avoid finicking repetitions, I have refrained from giving separate recipes for lamb and mutton respectively. The reader will therefore bear in mind that the formulæ relating to mutton also apply to grass lamb. 1298—SADDLE OF MUTTON 1299—BARON OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS OF MUTTON 1300—DOUBLE OR PAIR OF LEGS OF MUTTON 1301—FILLETS OF MUTTON 1302—NECK OF MUTTON (Relevés) _Saddle of mutton_ is that part of the sheep which reaches from the bone of the haunch to the floating ribs. _Baron of mutton_ comprises the saddle and the two legs, _i.e._, a pair of hind-quarters. _Double_ consists of the two unseparated legs, minus the saddle. The Baron and the Double are almost always cuts of lamb. The fillet is one half of the saddle, when the latter is cut into two, lengthwise; that is to say, divided down the middle in suchwise as to bisect the spinal column. These fillets are sometimes boned, rolled over with the kernel of meat in the centre, and strung, in which case the skin should be removed before rolling. Saddle of mutton, before being roasted, should be cleared of all its superfluous underlying fat; and the flanks should be so shortened as to just meet when drawn over the fillets. The overlying skin should be removed, and the saddle should be strung in five or six places to keep it in shape. In the case of a saddle of lamb, the skin need not be completely removed, but slit in various places. As to neck of mutton, this should be shortened as for the cutting of ordinary cutlets; the skin and the bones of the chine should be removed, as also the meat at the end of the rib-bones, down to two-thirds in. from the extremity of each. The cushion is then covered with slices of bacon, tied on with string. When the piece is roasted and dished, a frill should be placed on the end of each bared bone. Neck of mutton ought never to comprise more than nine to ten ribs, counting from the floating ones; it should consist of rather less if anything. Mutton Relevés allow more particularly of vegetable and rice garnishes. Garnishes with sauces do not suit them so well, even when the pieces are braised. As for paste garnishes, such as macaroni, noodles, gniokis; they are seldom used. Garnishes for mutton relevés should therefore be chosen, in preference, from among the following, the details of which I gave under “Filet de Bœuf” (Nos. 1044 to 1074) and which I recall hereafter:— _Andalouse_, _Bouquetière_, _Châtelaine_, _Clamart_, _Dauphine_, _Dubarry_, _Duchesse_, _Japonaise_, _Jardinière_, _Lorette_, _Macédoine_, _Montmorency_, _Moderne_, _Nivernaise_, _Orientale_, _Petit-Duc_, _Provençale_, _Renaissance_, _Richelieu_, _St. Germain_. Apart from these compound garnishes, the following simple garnishes also suit admirably, either alone, or separated by some kind of potato preparation:— _Braised Lettuce_, stuffed with ordinary forcemeat or rice. _Cabbages_, moulded to the shape of small balls, braised and stuffed with fine mince-meat or rice. _Haricot-beans_, _Peas_ and _Broad-beans_, cohered with butter. _Asparagus-heads_, white or green, cooked and cohered with butter. _Celery_, _Endives_, and _Chicory_, all braised. _Brussels Sprouts_, _Cauliflowers_, _Broccoli_, etc. Finally, the garnishes and modes of preparation termed: _à l’Anglaise_, _à la Boulangère_, _Braisés_, _Mariné en Chevreuil_, which I give below for the leg and the shoulder, may be applied perfectly well to other large pieces of mutton. 1303—LARGE COLD JOINTS OF MUTTON Refer to Cold Beef; in all cases keep the dishing simple. The garnishing is optional. 1304—LEG AND SHOULDER OF MUTTON Legs of mutton or lamb ought never to appear on any but an ordinary luncheon menu. Although, strictly speaking, they should always be served after one of the ways described hereafter, all the garnishes given above may be applied to them. Shoulders may be roasted whole; but they may also be boned, seasoned inside, rolled up, and firmly strung. They may be treated like the legs, and the same garnishes are suited to them. 1305—GIGOT BOUILLI A L’ANGLAISE Trim the leg, shorten it in the region of the tibia bone, and plunge it into a stewpan of boiling water, salted in the proportion of one-third oz. of salt per quart of water. For an ordinary leg, add: three medium-sized carrots, two onions, each stuck with a clove, a faggot, and two cloves of garlic. Let the leg cook for a quarter of an hour for each two lbs. of its weight. Dish with vegetables all round, and serve at the same time a butter sauce with capers. N.B.—Leg of mutton _à l’anglaise_ may be accompanied by purées of turnips, celery, etc., and these vegetables should cook with the meat. A purée of potatoes or of haricot beans may be sent to the table with the meat; but, in this case, of course, the vegetables would be served separately. 1306—BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON Suppress the pelvic bone, shorten the end bone and brown the leg in the oven. Now, put it in an oval utensil, garnished for braising; add just enough white stock to barely cover the joint, and cook gently, allowing forty minutes per lb. of meat. Transfer the leg to a tray; strain the braising-liquor; clear it of all grease, and reduce it to half. Sprinkle the meat with a few tablespoonfuls of this reduced gravy, and set it to glaze in the oven. Serve at the same time:— (1) Either a purée of potatoes, of turnips, of haricot-beans, of cauliflower, etc., or (2) The reduced braising-liquor. 1307—GIGOT A LA BOULANGÈRE The leg may either be boned, seasoned inside and strung; or the end-bone may simply be shortened and that of the pelvis removed. In either case, put it in an earthenware dish, and brown it well in the oven, on both sides; then complete its cooking, all but a third. This done, set round the joint four large, sliced onions, just tossed in butter, that they may acquire some colour, and eight large, peeled potatoes cut into roundels one half in. thick. Sprinkle this garnish with the grease of the joint, and then complete the cooking of the leg and its garnish. Serve in the dish in which the joint has cooked. 1308—GIGOT MARINE EN CHEVREUIL Shorten the end-bone; remove the bone of the pelvis, and skin the top of the leg, leaving the meat in that region quite bare. Lard with very small strips of bacon, and put the meat into a _marinade_ prepared after the manner described under No. 170. The length of its stay in the _marinade_ should be based upon the tenderness of the meat and atmospheric conditions. In winter the time averages about three or four days, and in summer two days. _To Roast the Joint._—Withdraw it from the _marinade_ and dry it thoroughly; set it on a stand in the baking-tray; and put it into a very fierce oven, that the meat may _set_ immediately. The object of the very fierce oven is to prevent the juices absorbed from the _marinade_ escaping in steam and thereby hardening the meat. Towards the close of the operation, rissole the larding bacon well. Set on a long dish; fix a frill to the bone, and serve a Chevreuil sauce separately. _Chevreuil Sauce à la Française._—With the _marinade_ of the joint and a _Mirepoix_ with ham, prepare a sufficient quantity of Poivrade sauce (No. 49) to obtain two-thirds of a pint of it after it has been strained through a colander—an operation which should be effected with the application of great pressure to the aromatics. Despumate this sauce for thirty minutes, and add, little by little, half a wine-glassful of excellent red wine. Finish the seasoning with a little cayenne and a pinch of powdered sugar, and once more rub the whole through tammy or a fine strainer. 1309—GIGOT A LA SOUBISE Braise the leg of mutton as shown under No. 247. When it is two-thirds done, transfer it to another utensil; strain the braising-liquor over it, and add thereto three lbs. of sliced onions and two-third lb. of rice. Gently complete the cooking of the joint, together with the onions and the rice. This done:—(1) put it on a baking-tray and glaze it in the oven; (2) quickly rub the onions and the rice through a fine sieve or tammy. Set the leg of mutton on a long dish; put a frill on the bone, and serve, separately, the well-heated Soubise, finished with one oz. of butter. N.B.—This Soubise may be prepared separately; but in this case it has much less flavour than when it is made from the onions and the rice which have cooked in the braising-liquor. I therefore urge the adoption of the recipe as it stands. 1310—COLD LEG OF MUTTON Dish it very simply, like other cold large joints of mutton. 1311—CUTLETS Mutton and lamb cutlets are sometimes _sautéd_; but grilling is the most suitable method of cooking them. When the nature of their preparation requires that they should be treated _à l’anglaise_, fry them in clarified butter. All the garnishes, given under “Tournedos,” except those served with sauces, may be applied to cutlets. The latter also allow of a few special garnishes, and these I give in the following recipes. 1312—CÔTELETTES A LA CHAMPVALLON (10 Cutlets) Take some cutlets from the region underlying the shoulder; that is to say, those uncovered by the removal of this joint. And do not clear the bone-ends of their meat, as when frills are to be fixed to them. Season them with salt and pepper, and brown them in butter on both sides. This done, put them in an earthenware dish with half lb. of sliced onions, tossed in butter without colouration; moisten with enough white stock to almost cover the cutlets and the onions; add the quarter of a clove of garlic, crushed, and a faggot; boil, and set in the oven. At the end of twenty minutes, add one and one-half lbs. of potatoes, fashioned to the shape of corks, and cut into thin roundels; season, and complete the cooking, basting often the while. When the cutlets are cooked, the moistening should be almost entirely reduced. 1313—CÔTELETTES LAURA Grill the cutlets, and, meanwhile, prepare a garnish (the quantity of which should be such as to allow two and one-half oz. of it per cutlet) of parboiled macaroni, cut into half-inch lengths, cohered with cream, and combined, per lb., with three and one-half oz. of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed in butter. Or, when white truffles are in season, prepare some macaroni with cream, as above, combined with the peelings of raw, white truffles. Cut some very soft pig’s caul into triangles, proportionate in size to the cutlets; spread a little macaroni on each triangle; on the latter set a cutlet; cover the cutlets with some more macaroni, and enclose the whole in the caul. Lay the cutlets on a dish. Sprinkle with fine raspings and melted butter, and set to grill at the salamander, or in a fierce oven, for seven or eight minutes. Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown, and surround them with a thread of clear half-glaze sauce, combined with tomatoes. 1314—CÔTELETTES A LA MAINTENON Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. This done, put a heaped tablespoonful of a _Maintenon_ preparation (No. 226) on each; shape it like a dome, by means of the blade of a small knife dipped in tepid water, and put the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. The _Maintenon_ preparation should be laid on the cooked side of each cutlet and sprinkled with fine raspings and melted butter. Now put the cutlets in a rather hot oven for seven or eight minutes in order to:— (1) Allow a _gratin_ to form over the surface of the garnish. (2) Finish the cooking of the cutlets. Dish the latter in the form of a crown, and serve, separately, a sauceboat of meat glaze finished with butter. 1315—CÔTELETTES A LA MURILLO Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only; and garnish the cooked side, dome-fashion, with a fine hash of mushrooms, cohered with a little very reduced Béchamel sauce. Set them on a tray; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and glaze in a fierce oven. Dish the cutlets in the form of a crown; fix a frill to each, and surround them with mild capsicums and tomatoes, both of which should be sliced, tossed in butter, and mixed. 1316—CÔTELETTES A LA PROVENÇALE For ten cutlets:—(1) Reduce one-half pint of Béchamel sauce to a third, and add thereto the third of a garlic clove, crushed, and the yolks of three eggs; (2) prepare at the same time as the cutlets, ten grilled mushrooms; and ten stoned, stuffed and poached olives, girded by a strip of anchovy fillet. Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Cover the cooked side of each with the preparation described above; set them on a tray; sprinkle them with a few drops of melted butter, and put them in the oven, that their garnish may be glazed and that their cooking may be completed. Dish in the form of a circle; place a grilled mushroom (convex side uppermost) in the middle of each cutlet, and, on each mushroom, a stuffed olive. 1316a—CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON A LA REFORME Trim six mutton cutlets; season them; dip them in melted butter, and roll them in bread-crumbs, combined with finely-chopped ham in the proportion of a third of the weight of the bread-crumbs. Now cook them gently in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle on a hot dish, and send the following sauce to the table with them:— Take a small saucepan, and mix therein three tablespoonfuls of half-glaze sauce, the same quantity of Poivrade sauce, and one coffeespoonful of red-currant jelly; add one coffeespoonful of each of the following short _julienne_ garnishes to the sauce; viz.: hard-boiled white of egg; very red, salted tongue; gherkins; mushrooms, and truffles. 1317—CÔTELETTES A LA SÉVIGNÉ Have ready a preparation of mushroom and artichoke-bottom croquettes, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful for each cutlet. Fry the cutlets in butter, on one side only. Garnish the fried side of each, dome-fashion, with the above preparation; treat them _à l’anglaise_, and sprinkle them with melted butter. Put them in the oven to complete their cooking, and, at the same time, to colour their coating of egg and bread-crumbs. Dish in the form of a crown. 1318—CÔTELETTES A LA SUÉDOISE Place the cutlets on a dish, and drop thereon some minced onions and shallots, bits of parsley stalks, thyme and bay. Sprinkle them with the juice of a lemon and a few drops of oil, and leave them to _marinade_ for thirty minutes, turning them over the while, from time to time. This done, dry them; dip them in melted butter, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs, and grill them. Dish them in the form of a crown, and garnish the centre of the dish with the following, which may also be sent separately: one-half lb. of peeled and finely-sliced apples, quickly stewed to a purée with the third of a wineglassful of white wine. When about to serve, add to this purée two and one-half oz. of finely-grated horse-radish, or the latter grated and afterwards finely chopped. 1319—CÔTELETTES EN BELLE VUE Proceed after one of the recipes given for veal cutlets and grenadins “en Belle Vue.” 1320—CÔTELETTES EN CHAUDFROID Cut some very regular cutlets from a neck of mutton or lamb, which should have been trimmed as explained, braised, and left to cook in its braising-liquor. Clear all grease from the latter; strain it; reduce it, and add to it a brown chaud-froid sauce (No. 34). Dip the cutlets in the sauce when it is almost cold; set them on a tray; deck the kernel of meat in each with a fine slice of truffle, and sprinkle with cold, melted aspic. When the sauce has set well, pass the point of a small knife round the cutlets, with the view of removing the superfluous sauce; and either dish them round a vegetable salad, cohered and moulded, or simply dish them in the form of a circle and place a pyramid of cohered, vegetable salad in their midst. 1321—NOISETTES DE MOUTON Mutton _noisettes_, and especially those of lamb, may be classed among the choicest of entrées. They are cut from either the fillet or the neck; but, in the latter case, only the first six or seven ribs are used. _Noisettes_ are grilled or _sautéd_, and all the recipes given for Tournedos (Nos. 1077 to 1139) and for cutlets, may be applied to them. 1322—MINION FILLETS The minion fillets of mutton or lamb consist of the two muscles which lie under the saddle. Their mode of preparation changes according to their size. Thus, if they are small, they are served whole, after having been trimmed, sometimes larded; and _sautéd_. If they are large, they are divided into two or three parts, cut laterally and aslant; they are flattened, trimmed to the shape of ellipses, seasoned, dipped in melted butter, sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs, and finally, gently grilled. Minion fillets of beef, obtained from the narrow extremity or head of the fillet, are also used occasionally; and these are generally flattened, dipped in butter and fine bread-crumbs, and grilled. These fillets are served chiefly with vegetable purées or with _macédoines_ of fresh vegetables. The sauces best suited to them are the Béarnaise and the Robert Escoffier. 1323—SHEEP’S TONGUES Salted or fresh sheep’s tongues make an excellent luncheon entrée. They are cooked after the manner of ox and calf’s tongues, due allowance being made for the difference of size. The various garnishes given for ox and calf’s tongues may also be used in this case. 1324—SHEEP’S TROTTERS Sheep’s trotters, as they reach us from the purveyor, should first be well singed over spirits of wine, and then rubbed with a clean piece of linen. The little tuft of hair in the cleft of the hoof is next removed, the hoof itself is suppressed, and the trotters are split open lengthwise and boned. Sheep’s trotters are cooked like calf’s feet, in the special _court-bouillon_ or blanc, given under No. 167. 1325—FRITÔT OF SHEEP’S TROTTERS Fifteen minutes before frying them, put the sheep’s trotters into a receptacle with lemon juice, a few drops of oil and some chopped parsley; keeping the quantity of these ingredients in proportion to the number of trotters. Be careful to toss the latter from time to time in the _marinade_. A few moments before serving, dip the half-trotters into batter (No. 232) and plunge them into an abundant and hot frying-medium. Drain them when the batter is nicely dry and golden; and dish on a napkin with a border of very green fried parsley. Serve a tomato sauce separately. 1326—PIEDS DE MOUTON POULETTE For this dish the trotters should, as far as possible, be freshly cooked. For twenty trotters prepare two-thirds of a pint of poulette sauce; add the trotters thereto, well drained; toss them in the sauce, and dish them in a timbale with a sprinkling of chopped parsley. 1327—PIEDS DE MOUTON ROUENNAISE Instead of cooking the sheep’s trotters in a _blanc_, braise them; add a little Madeira to their braising-liquor, and cook them thoroughly. Prepare a forcemeat, consisting of one and one-half lbs. of very fine sausage-meat; three oz. of chopped onions, cooked in butter without colouration, and a large pinch of parsley. When the trotters are cooked, transfer them to a dish; almost entirely reduce their braising-liquor; add to this two liqueur-glassfuls of burnt brandy, for each ten trotters, and add this reduced braising-liquor to the forcemeat. Cut ten rectangles six inches long by four inches wide out of pig’s caul. Spread a tablespoonful of forcemeat over each; set two trotters on the forcemeat of each rectangle; cover up with forcemeat, and draw the ends of the caul together in suchwise as to enclose the whole. Sprinkle with bread-crumbs and melted butter; grill gently, and serve. 1328—PIEDS DE MOUTON TYROLIENNE Cook a fair-sized chopped onion in butter, together with three peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper; add a pinch of chopped parsley, a little crushed garlic, one-sixth of a pint of Poivrade sauce, and twenty freshly-cooked and well-drained sheep’s trotters. Simmer for ten minutes and dish in a timbale. 1329—MUTTON KIDNEYS Mutton kidneys are either grilled or _sautéd_. When they are to be grilled, first remove the fine skin enveloping them, cut them in halves, without completely severing them on their concave side, and impale them on a small skewer, with the view of keeping them open during the grilling operation. Before grilling they may or may not be dipped in melted butter and rolled in bread-crumb. When they are to be _sautéd_, clear the kidneys, as before, of the thin skin which envelops them; cut them into halves, and then into slices one-quarter in. thick. Kidneys, of what kind soever, should be cooked very quickly, otherwise they harden. After having seasoned them, put them into very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire in order to stiffen them. This done, drain them; and let them stand for a few minutes, that they may exude the blood they contain, which sometimes has a distinct ammoniacal smell. Meanwhile, swill the utensil in which they have been _sautéd_, and finish the sauce, to which they are added when dishing up. Never let the kidneys boil in the sauce, for they would immediately harden. 1330—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BERCY Slice, season, and quickly toss the mutton kidneys in butter, and drain them. For six kidneys put one tablespoonful of finely-chopped shallots into the saucepan, and just heat it. Moisten with one-sixth of a pint of white wine; reduce to half; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze, and a few drops of lemon-juice, and put the kidneys in this sauce. Add two and one-half oz. of butter, cut into small pieces; melt this on the corner of the stove, tossing and rolling the pan the while; dish in a timbale, and sprinkle a pinch of chopped parsley over the kidneys. 1331—ROGNONS SAUTÉS BORDELAISE Fry the mutton kidneys, and drain them as above. Put into the saucepan one-third of a pint of Bordelaise sauce combined with poached dice of marrow, a pinch of chopped parsley, and three oz. of sliced _cèpes_, tossed in butter and oil and well drained. Return the kidneys to the saucepan; toss them in the sauce, and dish in a timbale. 1332—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CARVALHO Fry the skinned, halved and seasoned mutton kidneys in butter, and dish them, each on a small _croûton_ of bread-crumb, cut to the shape of a cock’s comb and fried in butter. On each half-kidney, set a small cooked mushroom and a slice of truffle. Swill the saucepan with Madeira; add a little half-glaze; put in a small quantity of butter, away from the fire, and pour this sauce over the kidneys. 1333—ROGNONS SAUTÉS AU CHAMPAGNE Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them in two lengthwise; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish in a timbale. Swill the saucepan with one-half pint of champagne per six kidneys; reduce almost entirely; add two tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze; add a small quantity of butter, and pour this sauce over the kidneys. N.B.—The preparation of kidneys _sautéd_ with wine always follows the same principle; that is to say, the saucepan in which the kidneys have cooked is always swilled with a quantity of wine, in proportion to the number of kidneys; a proportionate amount of meat glaze is then added, and after the sauce has been slightly buttered, the kidneys are tossed in it. 1334—ROGNONS SAUTÉS HONGROISE Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys; cut them into halves; slice and season them; fry them in butter, and drain them. In the saucepan that has served in the cooking of the kidneys, fry a chopped onion with butter, and add thereto a pinch of paprika. Moisten with a tablespoonful of cream, and reduce; add one-sixth of a pint of velouté, boil for a moment, and rub through tammy. Heat this sauce; put the kidneys into it, toss them for a minute, so as to heat without boiling them, and dish in a timbale. 1335—ROGNONS SAUTÉS CHASSEUR Quickly fry the sliced mutton kidneys in butter and drain them. Swill the saucepan with white wine and almost entirely reduce; add one-third of a pint of Chausseur sauce for each six kidneys; put the kidneys in this sauce, toss them for an instant; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle with a pinch of chopped parsley. 1336—ROGNONS SAUTÉS A L’INDIENNE For six mutton kidneys: fry a chopped onion in butter and add a large pinch of curry thereto. Moisten with one-sixth pint of velouté; cook for a few minutes, and rub through tammy. Clear the kidneys of their outer skin; slice and season them, and fry them quickly in butter. Put them into the sauce; dish them in a timbale, and serve some rice “à l’Indienne” separately. 1337—ROGNONS SAUTÉS TURBIGO Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin and cut them in halves; season them; fry them quickly in butter, and dish them in a circle in a timbale. In their midst set a garnish of small, cooked mushrooms, and grilled chipolata sausages; and pour thereon a highly-seasoned, tomatéd half-glaze sauce. 1338—CROÛTE AUX ROGNONS Cut some crusts two and one-half in. in diameter and one and one-third in. thick, from a tin-loaf, and allow one for each person. Remove the crumb from their inside, leaving only a slight thickness at the bottom; butter them, and dry them in the oven. Garnish these crusts with mutton kidneys _sautéd_ with mushrooms, and combined with small, ordinary forcemeat quenelles, and slices of truffle. Dish on a napkin, and serve very hot. 1339—TURBAN DE ROGNONS A LA PIÉMONTAISE Garnish a border or a Savarin-mould with “rizotto à la Piémontaise,” press the latter lightly into the utensil, and keep the mould hot. Clear the mutton kidneys of their outer skin; cut them into halves; season them, and fry them quickly in butter. Turn out on a round dish, set the half-kidneys in a circle on the “Turban,” alternating them with fine slices of truffle, and pour a tomatéd half-glaze sauce, flavoured with truffle essence, in the middle. 1340—ROGNONS A LA BROCHETTE Cut the mutton kidneys into halves, as explained, without dividing them; impale them two or four at a time, on a skewer; season them, and grill them in a somewhat fierce oven. Set them, with the skewers withdrawn, upon a hot dish, and put into the cavity of each a piece of softened, Maître-d’hôtel butter, the size of a hazel nut. 1341—ROGNONS BROCHETTE A L’ESPAGNOLE Prepare the mutton kidneys as above. Grill the same quantity of small, pressed and seasoned half-tomatoes. Garnish these tomatoes with a piece, the size of a walnut, of Maître-d’hôtel butter, combined with two-thirds oz. of chopped capsicum per three oz. of butter. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a kidney on each, and surround with a border consisting of rings of onion, seasoned, dredged and crisply fried in oil. 1342—ROGNONS BROCHETTE AU VERT PRÉ Prepare the mutton kidneys exactly as explained under the first of this kind of recipes, and surround them with small heaps of straw potatoes and bunches of very green parsley. 1343—BROCHETTES DE ROGNONS Remove the outer skin from the mutton kidneys, and cut them into roundels one-third in. thick. Season these roundels and stiffen them in butter over a very fierce fire. Impale them on skewers, alternating them with squares of _blanched_ lean bacon and slices of _sautéd_ mushrooms. Sprinkle with melted butter and raspings, and grill. These brochettes are generally served as they stand. =Various Preparations of Mutton.= 1344—CASSOULET (1) Set one quart of haricot beans to cook with two quarts of water, one-third oz. of salt, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, one faggot, six garlic cloves, and two-thirds lb. of fresh pork rind, _blanched_ and strung together. Boil; skim; cover, and cook gently for one hour. At the end of this time, add two-thirds lb. of breast of pork, and a sausage with garlic, of the same weight as the pork. Salt the beans very moderately, allowing for the reduction which they have ultimately to undergo. Complete the cooking of the whole gently. (2) Fry gently in lard one lb. of shoulder, and the same weight of breast, of mutton; both cut into pieces one and one-half oz. in weight. This done, drain away half the grease; add two chopped onions and two crushed cloves of garlic, and fry again until the onions have acquired a slight colour. Now pour in one-sixth pint of good tomato purée; moisten the meat, enough to cover, with the cooking-liquor of haricot beans, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours at least. (3) Garnish the bottom and sides of some _cocottes_ or deep dishes with bacon rind; fill these with alternate layers of the pieces of mutton, the beans, the bacon cut into dice, and the sausage cut into roundels. Sprinkle the surface with raspings, and set the _gratin_ to form in a moderate oven for one hour; taking care to baste from time to time with some reserved haricot-beans cooking-liquor. 1345—CURRIE A L’INDIENNE Cut two lbs. of lean mutton into cubes of one and one-third in. side, and fry these in three oz. of lard, with one chopped onion, salt, and a pinch of powdered curry. When the meat is frizzled and the onions begin to colour, sprinkle with one and one-third oz. of flour; cook the latter a while; moisten with one and one-third pints of water or stock; boil, stirring the while, so as to dissolve the roux, and then cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. When about to serve, clear of all grease and dish in a timbale. Send a timbale of rice à l’Indienne separately. 1346—DAUBE A L’AVIGNONNAISE Bone a medium-sized leg of mutton, and cut the meat into squares, three oz. in weight. Lard each square with a large, seasoned strip of bacon, inserted with the grain of the meat. Put the pieces into a _daubière_ with a sliced half-carrot and onion, three cloves of garlic, a little thyme, bay, and parsley stalks. Moisten with one and one-third pints of good, red wine and four tablespoonfuls of oil, and _marinade_ in the cool for two hours. Prepare:—(1) Three chopped onions mixed with two crushed garlic cloves; (2) one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_; (3) one-half lb. of fresh, bacon rind, _blanched_ and cut into squares of one in. side; (4) a large bunch of parsley, containing a small piece of dry, orange peel. Garnish the bottom and sides of a _daubière_ with thin slices of bacon; set the pieces of mutton in layers inside, and alternate them with layers of onion, bacon and bacon rind; sprinkle a pinch of powdered thyme and bay on each layer of meat. Put the faggot in the middle. Moisten with the _marinade_, strained through a sieve, and one-fifth pint of brown stock; cover with slices of bacon; close the _daubière_, and seal down the lid by means of a thread of soft paste, in order that the steam may be concentrated inside. Boil on the side of the stove; put the _daubière_ in an oven of regular heat (a baker’s oven if possible) that the cooking process may be gentle and steady, and cook for five hours. When about to serve, uncover the _daubière_; remove the overlying slices of bacon; clear of grease; remove the faggot, and dish the _daubière_ on a napkin. N.B.—According to the household method, the “Daube” is served in the _daubière_ itself; but, subject to the demands of the service and in order that the preparation may keep its bucolic character, it may be served in small earthenware utensils. 1347—DAUBE FROIDE Cold Daube constitutes an excellent luncheon dish. All that is needed is to put what is left into a small _daubière_, where, as a result of the binding properties of the pork rinds, it will set in a mass. When about to serve, turn out on a round dish; surround with very light, chopped jelly; and carve into very thin slices. 1348—ÉMINCÉS ET HACHIS An unalterable principle governs the preparation of émincés and hashes, which is that the meats constituting these dishes should never boil if it be desired that they be not hard. They should, therefore, only be heated in their accompanying garnish or sauce, and in the case of émincés, cut as finely as possible. For the various recipes under this head, see the Chapter on Beef. (Nos. 1175, 1178 and 1179.) 1349—HARICOT DE MOUTON Heat three oz. of lard in a sautépan. Put therein one-half lb. of lean bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_, and twenty small onions. When the bacon is frizzled and the onions have acquired a good colour, drain both on a dish. In the same fat, fry three lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton, all three being cut into pieces weighing about three oz. Keep the meat in the fat until each piece of it has acquired a frizzled coat. Drain away half of the grease; add three crushed cloves of garlic; dust with two tablespoonfuls of flour, and cook the latter, stirring the while. Moisten with one quart of water; season with one-third oz. of salt and a pinch of pepper; boil and stir; add a faggot, and cook in the oven for thirty minutes. This done, transfer the pieces to another saucepan; add the bacon and the onions and a quart of half-cooked haricot beans; strain the sauce over the whole, and complete the cooking in the oven for one hour. Dish in a timbale or in small _cocottes_. 1350—IRISH STEW Cut two lbs. of boned breast and shoulder of mutton into pieces, as above. Slice two lbs. of potatoes and chop four medium-sized onions. Take a saucepan just large enough to hold these ingredients and the moistening; line the bottom of the utensil with a layer of the pieces of meat, and season the latter with salt and pepper. Upon the meat spread a litter of sliced potatoes and chopped onions; repeat the operation, again and again, until all the ingredients are used up, and remember to place a faggot in the middle. Moisten with one and one-third pint of water, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. The potatoes in this preparation answer the double purpose of garnish and leason. Dish in a timbale and serve boiling. 1351—MOUSSAKA (1) Cut six fine egg-plants into halves, lengthwise; _cisel_ the pulp somewhat deeply with the point of a small knife, and fry them until their pulp may be easily removed. Do this with a spoon, and put the pulp aside with the skins of the egg-plants. (2) Peel two fair-sized egg-plants; cut them into roundels one-third in. thick; season them, dredge them; fry them in oil, and put them aside. (3) Chop up the pulp withdrawn from the egg-plants, and put it into a basin with one and one-half lbs. of very lean, cooked mutton, chopped or cut into very small dice; two tablespoonfuls of very finely-chopped onion, fried in butter; a pinch of parsley; a piece of crushed garlic as large as a pea; three oz. of roughly-chopped raw mushrooms, fried in butter; two eggs; two tablespoonfuls of cold Espagnole sauce; one tablespoonful of tomato purée; a pinch of salt, and another of pepper. Mix the whole well. (4) Butter a low-bordered quart Charlotte mould; line it all over with the egg-plant skins, and lay these black side uppermost. Garnish the bottom of the mould with a layer of mincemeat, one in. thick; on this layer place a few fried roundels of egg-plant, and continue thus with alternate layers of mince and egg-plant. Cover the last layer of mince-meat with the remains of the egg-plant skins, and cook in a _bain-marie_ for one hour. When taking the mould out of the oven, let it stand for five minutes in order that the ingredients may settle; turn out on a round dish, and besprinkle the surface of the Moussaka with chopped parsley. 1352—MUTTON PUDDING Follow the directions given under beefsteak pudding (No. 1170) exactly. The preparation is just the same, but for the substitution of mutton for the beef. 1353—NAVARIN PRINTANIER Heat four oz. of clarified fat in a sautépan, and put into it four lbs. of breast, neck and shoulder of mutton; all three cut into pieces weighing two and one-half oz. Fry over a very brisk fire; season with one-third oz. of salt, a pinch of ground pepper, and another of sugar. The sugar settles slowly on the bottom of the sautépan, where it turns to caramel; it is then dissolved by the moistening, and thus gives the sauce the required colour. When the meat is well fried, remove almost all the fat; sprinkle with one and one-half oz. of flour; cook the latter for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-half quarts of water or stock. Boil, stirring the while, and add two-thirds lb. of fresh _concassed_ tomatoes or one-fifth pint of tomato purée; one crushed clove of garlic, and a large faggot. Cover and cook in the oven for one hour. This done, transfer the pieces of mutton, one by one, to another saucepan with twenty small, new onions; twenty pieces of new trimmed carrots; twenty pieces of new turnips, cut to the shape of long olives and tossed with butter in a frying-pan; twenty small, new potatoes, cut into two, and trimmed, or whole; one-sixth pint of fresh peas, and an equal quantity of raw French beans, cut into lozenges. Strain the sauce over the whole; set to boil, and continue cooking slowly in the oven for one hour; taking care from time to time to baste the overlying vegetables with sauce. Dish in a timbale and serve very hot. N.B.—When put into the sauce, the vegetables cook much less quickly than in boiling water. In the Navarin, moreover, they are cooked by means of gradual penetration; thus, by slackening the cooking speed of the Navarin, they are cooked to the required extent. 1354—PILAW DE MOUTON A LA TURQUE Mutton Pilaff is, in fact, nothing but a Navarin in which the tomatoes dominate the other ingredients; it is flavoured with ginger or saffron, according to circumstances, and the usual vegetables are replaced by rice. Prepared in this way, it does not lend itself very well to the exigencies of a restaurant service. More often, therefore, it is treated like curried mutton; but, instead of serving it with rice à l’Indienne, it is dished in the midst of a pilaff-rice border. Sometimes, too, the rice is served separately, after the manner of a curry dish. HOUSE LAMB. 1355—BARON (OR PAIR OF HIND-QUARTERS) OF LAMB 1356—DOUBLE (OR PAIR OF LEGS) OF LAMB 1357—QUARTER OF LAMB 1358—FILLET OF LAMB 1359—SADDLE AND NECK OF LAMB Large joints of lamb for Relevés are cut like those of mutton. One joint, however, should be added, which is “The Haunch”; and this consists of one leg and half the loin attached. Large joints of house lamb should be _poëled_ or roasted. Their most suitable adjunct is either their own stock, or a thickened, highly seasoned and clear gravy. House Lamb Relevés are chiefly garnished with early-season or new vegetables; but all the garnishes given under Mutton Relevés may also be served with them, provided the difference in size be taken into account. In addition to these garnishes, saddle of lamb admits of all the preparations given under saddle of veal (Nos. 1181 to 1191). 1360—SELLE D’AGNEAU DE LAIT ÉDOUARD VII. Completely bone the saddle from underneath, in suchwise as to leave the skin intact; season it inside, and place in the middle a fine foie gras, studded with truffles and _marinaded_ in Marsala. Reconstruct the saddle, and wrap it tightly in a piece of muslin; put it in a saucepan just large enough to hold it, on a litter of pieces of bacon rind, cleared of all fat and _blanched_. Moisten, enough to cover, with the braising-liquor of a cushion of veal; add thereto the Marsala used in _marinading_ the foie gras, and poach for about forty-five minutes. Before withdrawing the saddle, make sure that the foie gras is sufficiently cooked. Remove the muslin, and put the saddle in an oval _terrine à pâté_ just large enough to hold it. Strain the cooking-liquor over it, without clearing the former of grease, and set it to cool. When the saddle is quite cold, carefully clear away the grease that lies upon it, first by means of a spoon and then by means of boiling water. Serve it very cold, in the terrine as it stands. 1361—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU BEAUCAIRE Having trimmed the neck of lamb, as explained, brown it in butter; surround it with eight small, Provence half-artichokes, and cook gently in the oven. The artichokes in question have no chokes and are very tender. Meanwhile, peel, press, _concass_ and season four or five tomatoes, and fry them in butter. When they are ready, add a large pinch of chopped tarragon to them. Dish the tomatoes; set the neck upon them, and surround it with the stewed half-artichokes. 1362—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU EN COCOTTE A LA BONNE FEMME Fry a shortened and well-trimmed neck of lamb, in butter. This done, transfer it to an oval _cocotte_ with ten small onions browned in butter, and two medium-sized potatoes, cut into large dice, shaped like garlic cloves, and _blanched_. Sprinkle the whole with melted butter and cook gently in the oven. Serve the preparation as it stands, in the _cocotte_, placing the latter on a folded napkin. 1363—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA BOULANGÈRE Fry the neck of lamb with butter, in an earthenware dish, and surround it with sliced onions, tossed in butter, and sliced potatoes; both of which vegetables should be in quantities in proportion to the size of the piece of meat. The “à la Boulangère” procedure is always the same, and was explained under No. 1307, but allowances should always be made for the particular size and tenderness of the piece. 1364—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU GRILLÉ Having shortened and well trimmed the neck, season it; sprinkle it with melted butter, and grill it gently. When it is almost cooked, sprinkle it again with melted butter and bread-crumbs, and let it acquire a golden colour while completely cooking it. Serve very hot with mint sauce and a suitable garnish. 1365—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU MIREILLE Prepare some Anna potatoes (No. 2203) in an oval earthenware dish, and add a third of the quantity of potatoes of raw, minced artichoke-bottoms. When the potatoes are three-parts cooked, stiffen the neck in butter; place it on the potatoes, and complete the cooking of the two, basting often the while with melted butter. Send the preparation to the table on the dish that has served in the cooking process. 1366—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER Prepare the following garnish: eight small onions, half-cooked in butter; ten carrots of the size and shape of garlic cloves, cooked in consommé and glazed; and ten turnips of the same shape and size, similarly treated. Put these vegetables into a _cocotte_ with three tablespoonfuls of fresh peas; the same quantity of raw, French beans, cut into lozenge form; two or three tablespoonfuls of good and very clear stock, and complete the cooking of the whole. Meanwhile, _poële_ the neck of lamb, which should have been shortened and trimmed in the usual way. Dish the neck of lamb and serve the vegetables in the _cocotte_. 1367—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU SOUBISE Having shortened and trimmed the neck of lamb, stiffen it in butter; surround it with one-half lb. of finely-minced and well-blanched onions, and complete the cooking of both by stewing. This done, transfer the neck to a dish and keep it hot. Add one-quarter pint of boiling Béchamel sauce to the onions, and rub them quickly through tammy or a fine sieve. Heat this Soubise; finish it with one and one-half oz. of butter, and pour it over the neck. Border the dish with a thread of rather light meat glaze, and serve. 1368—CARRÉ D’AGNEAU A LA TOSCANE Shorten the neck of lamb; suppress the cartilaginous portions and stiffen it in butter. Garnish the bottom of an oval earthenware dish, of the same size as the neck, with a layer of Anna potatoes (No. 2203). Set the neck on this layer, and cover it over with a second layer of the same potato preparation. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan; cook in the oven as for Anna potatoes, and take care that the bottom be so well set as to prevent any of the juices of the joint from exuding and depositing on it. Serve the dish as it stands. 1369—LEG AND SHOULDER OF LAMB All the recipes given under Haunch and Double (pair of legs), may be applied to the legs and shoulders of house lamb. The shoulders are often grilled, the operation being effected over a moderate fire after the joints have been incised lattice-fashion, and the same applies to the breast. The “à la Boulangère” treatment (No. 1307) admirably suits the legs and shoulders of house lamb. 1370—CUTLETS According to custom, lamb cutlets are usually served like “Noisettes,” _i.e._, two are allowed for each person. As a rule, when they are to be grilled, they are previously dipped in melted butter and sprinkled with fine bread-crumbs. When they are to be _sautéd_ they are treated _à l’anglaise_ (egg and bread-crumbs) except when, subject to their mode of preparation, they have to be served plain or stuffed. 1371—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT A LA BULOZ Prepare:—(1) a rizotto (No. 2238) with truffles, in proportion to the number of cutlets; (2) some very reduced Béchamel sauce, combined with one-half oz. of grated Parmesan per one-fifth pint of the sauce, and allowing one small tablespoonful of it for each cutlet. Half-grill the cutlets; dry them, and cover them, on both sides, with the reduced sauce. As soon as the cutlets have received their coat of sauce, dip them, one by one, into beaten egg (_anglaise_); roll them in very fine bread-crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan. Thoroughly press this coating of bread-crumbs with the flat of a knife, that it may adhere well to the egg and produce a crust at the close of the operation. This done, set the cutlets in a sautépan of very hot, clarified butter, and brown them on both sides. Dish the rizotto in a very even layer; set the cutlets in a circle on the rice, and fix a frill to the bone of each. 1372—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MARÉCHALE Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, and cook them in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, with a fine slice of truffle upon each; and, in their midst, set a nice heap of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. 1373—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MILANAISE Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, but add to the bread-crumbs the quarter of their weight of grated Parmesan. Cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle, and, in their midst, arrange a garnish “à la milanaise” (see Côte de Veau à la Milanaise, No. 1258.) 1374—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT MORLAND Slightly flatten the cutlets, dip them in beaten egg, and roll them in finely-chopped truffle, which in this case answers the purpose of bread-crumbs. Press the truffle with the flat of a knife, that it may thoroughly combine with the egg, and cook the cutlets in clarified butter. Dish them in a circle; garnish the centre of the dish with a mushroom purée (No. 2059), and surround the cutlets with a thread of buttered meat glaze. 1375—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT NAVARRAISE For twelve cutlets, make a preparation consisting of four oz. of ham, four oz. of cooked mushrooms, and one-half oz. of chopped, red capsicums; the whole being cohered by means of a very reduced Béchamel sauce, flavoured with truffle essence. Grill the cutlets on one side only, and garnish them on their grilled side with a tablespoonful of the above preparation, which should be shaped like a dome upon them. Set the cutlets upon a tray as soon as they are garnished; sprinkle the surface of the preparation, covering them with grated cheese and melted butter, and place them in the oven, that their cooking may be completed and the _gratin_ formed. Meanwhile, toss twelve seasoned half-tomatoes in oil. Dish these tomatoes in a circle; set a cutlet upon each, and border with a thread of tomato sauce. 1376—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT NELSON Grill the cutlets, and, at the same time, prepare as many bread-crumb _croûtons_ as there are cutlets, and of exactly the same shape as the latter. Fry the _croûtons_ in butter, and coat them with foie-gras purée. Place a grilled cutlet on each coated _croûton_, and a slice of truffle on the kernel of each cutlet. Now, by means of a piping-bag, fitted with an even pipe, cover the cutlets with some soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a); dish them in a circle, and put them in the oven for five minutes, that the _soufflé_ may poach. After withdrawing them from the oven, garnish the centre of the dish with a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter. 1377—CÔTELETTES D’AGNEAU DE LAIT FARCIES A LA PÉRIGUEUX Cook the cutlets in butter on one side only, and cool them under slight pressure. Garnish the cooked side of each with a tablespoonful of forcemeat with butter (No. 193), which should have received a copious addition of chopped truffles. Shape this forcemeat dome-fashion, by means of the flat of a small knife, dipped in tepid water, and set the cutlets, one by one, on a tray. Now put them in the front of the oven for seven or eight minutes that the forcemeat may be poached. Dish them in a circle, and pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst. 1378—EPIGRAMMES D’AGNEAU A lamb “epigram” consists of a cutlet, and a piece of braised breast, cooled under slight pressure and cut to the shape of a heart of the same size as the cutlets. The cutlets and the pieces of breast must be treated _à l’anglaise_, and _sautéd_ or grilled according to circumstance. Epigrams should be dished in a circle, the cutlets and the pieces being alternated. They are usually garnished with braised chicory, or _macédoines_ of early-season vegetables. 1379—RIS D’AGNEAU Lamb sweetbreads are, according to circumstances, either used as the principal constituent of various preparations, or they answer the purpose of a garnish. Due allowance having been made for their particular size, they may be treated after the same manner as veal sweetbreads; that is to say, once they have been cleared of blood, they are _blanched_ and braised according to the nature of the selected mode of preparation. If they are to form part of a large garnish, cohered by means of a brown sauce, they are braised brown and glazed. If they stand as an adjunct to poached fowl, they may be either studded or left plain, and braised white. Apart from their two uses as principal and garnishing constituents, the undermentioned methods of preparation, explained in the various preceding series, may be applied to them; viz.:— _Attereaux_, _Brochettes_, _Croustades_, _Pâté chaud_, _Vol au vent_, &c. 1380—SAUTÉ D’AGNEAU PRINTANIER Prepare the following garnish:—Twenty new carrots, cut to the shape of large olives, cooked in consommé and glazed; twenty pieces of turnip, similarly treated; fifteen small, new onions, cooked in butter; twenty very small new potatoes, cooked in butter (or _à l’anglaise_ if desired); three tablespoonfuls of peas; the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenge-form, and an equal quantity of small flageolet beans. The three last vegetables should be cooked _à l’anglaise_, and kept rather firm. Cut two lbs. of shoulder and breast of lamb into pieces weighing two oz., and completely cook them in butter without any moistening. This done, transfer them to a dish. Swill the saucepan with three tablespoonfuls of water; add five tablespoonfuls of pale meat glaze; heat without boiling, and finish with two and one-half oz. of butter. Put the pieces of lamb and the vegetables into this sauce, and gently rock the saucepan, that all the ingredients may partake of the sauce. Serve in a hot timbale. 1381—PILAW D’AGNEAU Proceed exactly as explained under “Pilaw de Mouton” (No. 1354), only bear in mind that the time allowed for cooking should be proportionately shortened in view of the greater tenderness of lamb’s meat. 1382—CURRIE D’AGNEAU Proceed as for “Currie de Mouton,” after duly allowing, as above, for the greater tenderness of the meat. PORK =Relevés and Entrées.= 1383—FRESH LEG OF PORK 1384—FRESH PORK FILLETS 1385—FRESH NECK OF PORK Relevés of fresh pork are only served at family and bourgeois meals. They are always roasts and allow of all the dry or fresh vegetable garnishes, as well as the various vegetable purées, and the pastes, such as macaroni, noodles, polenta, gnochi, &c. I shall, therefore, give only a few recipes, and shall select Fresh Neck of Pork as the typical joint. 1386—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA CHOUCROÛTE Roast the neck of pork and withdraw it from the oven a few minutes before it is done. Keep it in the stove for an hour, that its cooking may be completed gently; but remember, that if a stove is not available, the cooking of the piece should be well finished in the oven; for pork is indigestible when it is not thoroughly well cooked. Meanwhile, prepare a garnish of sauerkraut (No. 2097), and, during the last hour of its cooking, sprinkle it frequently with the fat of the neck. Dish the neck; clear the sauerkraut of any superfluous fat, and set it round the piece of meat in spoonfuls; slightly pressing it in so doing. 1387—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH BRUSSELS SPROUTS Roast the neck of pork. Three-parts cook the Brussels sprouts; completely drain them, and put them round the piece of meat, that they may complete their cooking in its gravy and fat, being frequently basted the while. For this preparation it is well to roast the neck in an earthenware dish, in which it may be served with its garnish—a much better plan than that of transferring it to another dish. 1388—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH RED CABBAGE A LA FLAMANDE Roast the neck of pork; dish it and surround it with a garnish of red cabbages, prepared à la Flamande (No. 2098). Sprinkle the garnish of vegetables with the gravy of the joint, three-parts cleared of grease. 1389—FRESH NECK OF PORK WITH STEWED APPLES Roast the neck of pork and see that it is well done. Meanwhile, peel and mince one lb. of apples; put them in a saucepan with one oz. of sugar and a few tablespoonfuls of water; seal the lid of the saucepan well down, so as to concentrate the steam inside, and cook quickly. When about to serve, thoroughly work the apple purée with a wire whisk, in order to smooth it. Dish the neck with its gravy, three-parts cleared of grease, and serve the apple purée separately in a timbale. 1390—FRESH NECK OF PORK A LA SOISSONNAISE Roast the neck on a dish that may be sent to the table. When it is three-parts done, set one quart of cooked and well-drained haricot beans round it, and complete the cooking gently. Serve the dish as it stands. 1391—BOILED SALTED PORK A L’ANGLAISE Cook plainly in water three lbs. of shoulder, breast, or gammon of bacon, and add thereto a garnish of vegetables as for boiled beef, and six parsnips. Serve the vegetables round the piece of meat, and send a pease-pudding (prepared as directed below) separately. _Pease-pudding_: put one lb. of a purée of yellow or green, split peas into a basin, and mix therewith three oz. of melted or softened butter, three eggs, a pinch of salt, another of pepper, and a little nutmeg. Pour this purée into a pudding basin, and poach it in steam or in a _bain-marie_. This preparation may also be put into a buttered and flour-dusted napkin; in which case, close the napkin up purse-fashion, tying it up securely with string, and cook the pudding in the same stewpan with the pork. This procedure is simpler than the first and quite as good. Very often a purée prepared from split, yellow or green peas, is used instead of the pudding given above. 1392—PORK PIE Completely line the bottom and sides of a pie-dish with thin slices of raw ham, and prepare, for a medium-sized dish:—(1) one and one-half lbs. of fresh pork in collops, seasoned with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of dry Duxelles (No. 223), a pinch of parsley and another of chopped sage; (2) one and one-half lbs. of raw, sliced potatoes, and one large, chopped onion. Garnish the bottom of the dish with a litter of collops; cover with potatoes and onions; spread another litter of collops, and begin again in the same order. Add one-quarter pint of water; cover with a layer of fine paste or puff-paste trimmings, which should be well sealed down round the edges; _gild_ with beaten egg; streak the paste with the prongs of a fork; make a slit in the centre of the covering of paste for the escape of steam, and bake in a moderate oven for about two hours. =Fresh-pork Cutlets.= 1393—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA CHARCUTIERE Season the cutlets; dip them in melted butter, and sprinkle them with fine raspings. Grill them gently, and baste them from time to time. Dish them in a circle; pour a Charcutière sauce in their midst, and serve a timbale of potato purée separately. _Charcutière sauce for eight or ten cutlets_: prepare one pint of Robert sauce (No. 52) and mix with it, just before dishing up, two oz. of gherkins, cut in short _julienne_ fashion or minced. 1394—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS A LA FLAMANDE Season the cutlets, and fry them on both sides in butter or fat. Meanwhile, peel and slice some eating apples, allowing three oz. of the latter for each cutlet, and put them in an earthenware dish. Set upon them the half-fried cutlets; sprinkle with fat, and complete their cooking, as well as that of the apples, in the oven. Serve the dish as it stands. 1395—CÔTES DE PORC FRAIS A LA MILANAISE Treat the cutlets _à l’anglaise_, but remember to add one quart of grated Parmesan to the bread-crumbs. Cook them gently in butter. Dish in a circle; set a milanaise garnish (No. 1258) in the centre, and serve a tomato sauce separately. 1396—FRESH-PORK CUTLETS WITH PIQUANTE OR ROBERT SAUCE Season and grill or _sauté_ the cutlets. Dish them in a circle, with Piquante or Robert sauce in their midst. N.B.—(1) Cutlets accompanied by either of the two above-mentioned sauces, may be treated with melted butter and bread-crumbs and grilled or _sautéd_; but, in this case, the sauce should be served separately. (2) For cutlets with Piquante sauce, border the dish on which they are served with gherkins, and send the sauce either separately or on the dish. (3) All the garnishes given under fresh neck of pork may accompany grilled or _sautéd_ pork cutlets. 1397—SUCKING PIG Stuffed or not stuffed, sucking pigs are always roasted whole, and the essential point of the procedure is that they should be just done when their skin is crisp and golden. While cooking, they should be frequently basted with oil; the latter being used in preference to any other fatty substance owing to the greater crispness it gives to the skin of the sucking pig. Serve a sauceboat of good gravy at the same time. 1398—ROAST STUFFED SUCKING PIG A L’ANGLAISE For a sucking pig of medium weight, prepare the following forcemeat:—Cook three lbs. of large onions with their skins, and let them cool. This done, peel and finely chop them, and put them in a basin with one lb. of the chopped fat of kidney of beef, one lb. of soaked and well-pressed bread-crumb, four oz. of parboiled and chopped sage, two eggs, one oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper and a little nutmeg. Mix the whole well, and put this stuffing inside the sucking pig. Sew up the latter’s belly; put it on the spit, and roast as directed above. Serve separately, either a timbale of apple sauce or of mashed potatoes. Four oz. per lb. of selected raisins, washed and swelled in tepid water, are sometimes combined with the apple sauce. 1399—ZAMPINO DE MODÈNE Zampino, or stuffed leg of pork, is a product of Italian pork-butchery. It is cooked like a ham, after having been tied in a napkin lest its skin burst. Served hot, it is accompanied by a Madeira or tomato sauce, a garnish of boiled, braised, or _gratined_ cabbages; of French beans, or of potato purée. 1400—ZAMPINO FROID Zampino is served cold, alone or mixed with other meats; but it is used more particularly as a hors-d’œuvre. For this purpose, cut it into the thinnest possible slices. 1401—OREILLES A LA ROUENNAISE After having singed and well cleaned the inside of the pig’s ears, cook them in water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. of salt per quart, together with a garnish of vegetables as for pot-au-feu. This done, cut them across in suchwise as to have the end where the flesh is thickest on one side, and the thinnest end on the other side of the strips. Chop up the thick portion; cut the other into collops, and put the whole into a saucepan with one-quarter pint of half-glaze with Madeira. Cook gently for thirty minutes. This done, add to the minced ears, one and one-half lbs. of sausage meat and a pinch of chopped parsley. Divide up the whole into portions, weighing three oz; wrap each portion in a piece of pig’s caul, insert a collop of ear into the wrapping, and give the latter the shape of ordinary _crépinettes_. Grill gently, until the cooking is three-parts done; sprinkle with butter and raspings, and complete the cooking of the _crépinettes_, colouring them in so doing. Dish in a circle, and serve a Madeira sauce at the same time. 1402—OREILLES A LA SAINTE MENEHOULD Cook the ears as explained above, and let them cool. Cut them in two, lengthwise; coat them with mustard; sprinkle them with melted butter and raspings, and grill them gently. Ears are usually served plain, but they may be accompanied by apple sauce. 1403—PIEDS DE PORC TRUFFÉS Truffled pig’s trotters may be bought already prepared; all that remains to be done, therefore, is to grill them. Sprinkle them with melted butter; grill them very gently, basting them from time to time the while, and serve them with a Périgueux sauce. 1404—PIEDS DE PORC PANES Sprinkle the pig’s trotters copiously with melted butter, and put them on the grill, which should be very hot. Grill them very gently, turning them with care; and serve them plain, or with a tomato purée separately. =Boudins.= 1405—BOUDIN BLANC ORDINAIRE Chop and afterwards pound one-half lb. of very lean fresh pork, and three-quarters lb. of fat fresh bacon. Add one and one-half oz. of foie gras, and rub through a fine sieve. Put this forcemeat into a basin, and finish it with two fresh eggs; one and one-half oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration; one-sixth pint of thick cream; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg. Mix the whole well; put it into the gut, without overfilling the latter, and tie round with string at regular intervals. Now set the boudins on a willow lattice, and plunge them into a receptacle full of boiling water. From this moment keep the water at 203° F., and let the boudins poach for twelve minutes. This done, withdraw them, and let them cool. Before serving them, grill them very gently, and, as a precautionary measure, wrap them in buttered paper. Do not _cisel_ them, but prick them with a pin. Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time. 1406—BOUDINS BLANCS DE VOLAILLE Pound separately one lb. of raw chicken fillets and three-quarters lb. of fresh fat bacon. Combine the two products in the mortar; pound again with the view of thoroughly mixing them, and add three oz. of chopped onion, cooked in butter without colouration, together with a little thyme and bay; one-half oz. of salt, a pinch of white pepper, and a little nutmeg. Mix the whole well, and add four eggs, one by one, working the forcemeat vigorously the while with the pestle. Rub through a fine sieve; return the forcemeat to the mortar, and add thereto, little by little, one pint of boiled and very cold milk. Put the forcemeat into the gut; poach it in the _bain-marie_, and set it to grill, observing the same precautions as in the preceding recipe. Serve a purée of potatoes with cream at the same time as the boudins. 1407—BOUDINS NOIRS Make the following preparation, putting the various ingredients into a basin:—One lb. of very fresh pork fat, cut into large dice, and half-melted; one sixth pint of thick cream; two eggs; six oz. of chopped onions, cooked in lard without colouration; two-thirds oz. of salt, a pinch of pepper, and a little spice; a pinch of wild-thyme leaves, and a leaf of bay, both chopped. Mix the whole well with one pint of blood of pork, and put it into the gut without over-filling it, for it should be borne in mind that the preparation swells in poaching. Set the boudins on willow lattices or baskets; plunge them into boiling water, and, from that time, keep the latter at 203° F. Let them poach for twenty minutes, and remember to prick all those that, by rising to the surface, show they contain air, which might burst their skins. When about to serve them, _cisel_ them on both sides, and grill them very gently. They are generally accompanied by a potato purée with cream. 1408—BOUDINS NOIRS A L’ANGLAISE Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, given above, and add to it three-quarters lb. of rice, cooked in consommé and kept somewhat firm. Poach as before, and leave to cool. _Cisel_ the boudins, and grill them over a moderate fire. Serve very hot with an apple purée. 1409—BOUDINS NOIRS A LA FLAMANDE Have ready the same preparation as for black boudins, and add to it three oz. of moist sugar, two oz. of raisins, and the same quantity of currants, washed and swelled in lukewarm water. Put the preparation into the gut, and poach in the usual way. When about to serve, grill these boudins gently, after the manner of black boudins, and send them to the table with a sugared apple sauce. =Crépinettes and Sausages.= 1410—CRÉPINETTES TRUFFÉES Add to two lbs. of very good sausage-meat, four oz. of chopped truffles, and two tablespoonfuls of truffles cooking-liquor. Mix the whole well; divide into portions weighing two and one-half oz., and wrap each portion in a square of pig’s caul. Shape the _crépinettes_ thus formed rectangularly. Sprinkle with melted butter, and grill gently. Dish them in a circle; pour a Périgueux sauce in their midst, and serve a potato purée with cream separately. 1411—CRÉPINETTES A LA CENDRILLON Prepare the _crépinettes_ as above; wrap them in a double sheet of buttered paper; over them set a heap of cinders covered with burning embers, and keep the latter alive for a space of twenty minutes, when the cooking operation should be completed. Formerly, the above was the mode of procedure, but nowadays the crépinettes are merely enveloped, each in an oval layer of paste. They are then _gilded_, their tops are streaked, and, after having been laid on a tray, they are baked in a warm oven for twenty minutes. This done, they are dished on a napkin. 1412—SAUCISSES ANGLAISES The most well-known of English sausages are those of Cambridge. They are cooked like the French kind, and they are often served at breakfasts as an adjunct to bacon. Sometimes, too, they serve as a garnish to roast fowls, young turkeys, &c. Their seasoning is often excessive. 1413—SAUCISSES AU VIN BLANC _First Method._—Put the sausages in a well-buttered sautépan; poach them gently in the oven, and dish them on thin crusts of bread fried in butter. For twelve sausages, swill the sautépan with one-sixth pint of white wine; reduce this to half; add one-sixth pint of half-glaze sauce; boil for a few minutes, and finish, away from the fire, with one and one-half oz. of butter. Pour this sauce over the sausages. _Second Method._—Stiffen the sausages in butter; add one-third pint of white wine, and complete their poaching. Set them on fried crusts; reduce the wine by two-thirds, and add thereto the yolk of one egg, a few drops of lemon juice, two tablespoonfuls of pale melted meat-glaze, and three oz. of butter. Pour the sauce over the sausages. 1414—SAUCISSES DE FRANCFORT ET DE STRASBOURG Plunge the sausages into a saucepanful of boiling water, and then poach them for no more than ten minutes; should they be allowed to cook for a longer time, they would only lose their quality. They may be served with a hors-d’œuvre dish of grated horse-radish, and an apple sauce separately; but their proper adjunct is braised sauerkraut. =Ham.= However deservedly pork may be praised, it could never have been included among the preparations of first-class cookery (except subsidiarily) had it not been for the culinary value of hams. With the latter it triumphs, and, be they of Bayonne or York, of Prague or Westphalia, no other joints enjoy more favour than these as Relevés. Though it is somewhat difficult to decide which one of the various kinds of ham should be adopted, in my opinion that of Bohemia, known as Prague ham, is best for a warm dish, and that of York for a cold dish. The latter is also excellent when served hot, but, even so, for this purpose it is inferior to the Prague kind, the delicacy of which is incomparable. Still, York ham ranks first in the opinion of many, for it should be remembered that England has no rival in the preparation of seasoned pork, and her famous bacon, the renown of which is enormous, constitutes one of the greatest discoveries in the science of gastronomy. 1415—HOT HAM—Its Preparation York ham is the kind chiefly used. After having soaked it in cold water for six hours, brush it and remove the pelvic bone; put it into a stewpan of cold water, and set to boil. This done, keep the water just simmering, that the ham may cook after the poaching method. There is no need of any seasoning or aromatic garnish. As often as possible, leave the ham to cool in its cooking-liquor. If the ham is to be braised, take it out of the water thirty minutes before it is cooked. Skin it; clear it of any superfluous fat, and put it in a braising-pan, just large enough to hold it, with two-thirds pint of some such wine as Madeira, Port, Xeres, Chypre, &c. Select the wine in accordance with the title of the dish on the menu. Having thoroughly sealed down the lid of the pan, put it in the oven, and continue the cooking of the ham gently for one hour, turning it over from time to time during the operation. If it have to reach the table whole, glaze it at the last moment. Its usual adjunct is a light and highly seasoned half-glaze sauce, combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease. 1416—JAMBON A LA CHANOINESSE Having poached the ham as explained above, braise it in white wine, adding thereto three oz. of mushroom parings. Dish and send separately a garnish of large, fresh noodles, cohered with butter and a Soubise purée, and completed with a _julienne_ of truffles. Serve separately a half-glaze sauce, combined with the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease and reduced. 1417—JAMBON A LA CHOUCROÛTE Completely cook the ham by poaching; skin and trim it. _If served whole_, send, separately, some braised sauerkraut and potatoes, freshly cooked _à l’anglaise_. Serve a half-glaze sauce with Rhine wine at the same time. _If served already carved_, arrange the slices in a circle on a round dish; put the sauerkraut in their midst, and border with the potatoes. Serve, separately, the same sauce as before. 1418—JAMBON A LA MAILLOT Poach the ham; braise it, and glaze it at the last moment. Set it on a long dish, and surround it with the following garnish, arranged in alternate heaps:—Carrots and turnips, cut to the shape of large, elongated olives, cooked separately in consommé, and glazed; small onions cooked in butter; braised and trimmed half-lettuces; peas and French beans cohered with butter separately. Serve apart a thickened gravy combined with some of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease. 1419—JAMBON A LA PRAGUE SOUS LA CENDRE Poach the ham and drain it on a dish. Remove the skin and all the black, outside parts. Prepare a piece of patty paste large enough to enclose the ham. Besprinkle the surface of the ham with powdered sugar; glaze quickly at the salamander, and place the ham (glazed side undermost) on the layer of paste. Draw the ends of the paste towards each other; seal them together, with the help of a little moisture, in such wise as to enclose the ham completely; turn the latter over, and put it on a tray with the sealed side of the paste lying underneath. _Gild_ and streak, make a slit in the middle of the paste for the escape of steam, and put the joint in the oven. Leave it there until the paste is dry and well coloured. After taking the ham out of the oven, inject into it, through a prepared hole, a large wineglassful of Port wine or Sherry. Stop up the hole with a little pellet of paste; dish, and serve immediately. Serve at the same time a garnish of Gnochi, spinach, or Soufflé au Parmesan (No. 2295a). The best adjunct to Prague ham is a very light glaze prepared with Port wine, and buttered at the last minute. 1419a—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA METTERNICH Prepare a ham “sous la cendre” as described above. Send to the table with it as many fine collops of foie-gras, tossed in butter and each covered with a nice slice of truffle, as there are diners. Send also a timbale of asparagus-heads. The waiter in charge then puts a slice of ham, a collop of foie-gras, and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads on each plate and serves. The sauce should be a Madeira flavoured with truffle essence. 1419b—JAMBON DE PRAGUE A LA NORFOLK Prepare a ham as in No. 1419. Serve each slice of it with one collop of braised veal sweetbread and one tablespoonful of fresh peas _à la paysanne_. Send as an adjunct the braising-liquor of the veal sweetbread. 1420—VARIOUS GARNISHES FOR BRAISED HAM The garnishes best suited to ham relevés are:— _Spinach; new broad beans; braised lettuce; endives; fresh peas à la paysanne._ _Noodles; Spaghetti; various Macaronis; Gnochi; Purées of fresh beans, broad beans._ The most usual accompanying sauce is half-glaze with Madeira. 1421—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ This is a variety of the ham _soufflés_ given hereafter. The preparation used is the same, and it may be made either from raw or from cooked ham. After having completely boned it, but for the end bone, which must be kept, cook the ham, and cool it. Now cut it horizontally, one-half inch above its bone, from the extremity of the end bone to the head of the latter. At the last-mentioned point, make a vertical incision meeting and ending at the first; remove the cushion of ham, which should by now be quite separated from the rest of the joint, and put aside for some future purpose. All that remains of the ham, therefore, is a thick piece adhering to the end-bone. Carefully trim this piece, and surround it with a strong band of buttered paper, tied on by means of string, the purpose of which is to hold in the soufflé. This done, put a sufficient quantity of soufflé de Jambon (described hereafter) on the remaining meat of the ham to reconstruct it entirely. Smooth the surface of the preparation with the flat of a knife (dipped in cold water), and so finish off the contour of the ham. Decorate according to fancy; place the dish containing the ham on a saucepanful of boiling water, and put the two in the oven with the view of obtaining the maximum amount of steam, which latter helps to poach the _soufflé_. This _souffléd_ ham may be poached just as well in a steamer. When the preparation is properly poached, remove the band of paper; dish the ham, and send one of the garnishes or sauces given for braised ham separately. 1422—SOUFFLÉS AU JAMBON Ham _soufflés_ are prepared after two recipes; in the first, cooked ham is used, and in the second the ham is raw. This last procedure is derived from _mousseline_ forcemeat, and, inasmuch as the preparation resulting from it is less flimsy than that of the first, it is preferred when a large number of people have to be served. 1423—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH COOKED HAM Finely pound one lb. of lean, cooked ham, and add thereto, one after the other, three tablespoonfuls of very cold Béchamel sauce. Rub through a fine sieve; put the resulting purée into a sautépan, and finish with one-quarter pint of very creamy and boiling Béchamel sauce, flavoured with ham essence; four egg-yolks, and the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. This preparation may be combined with three oz. of grated Parmesan, and the two flavours will be found to blend very agreeably. Prepared in this way, it is particularly well suited to the “Jambon Soufflé,” the recipe whereof is given above (No. 1421). 1424—THE PREPARATION OF THE SOUFFLÉ WITH RAW HAM Following the quantities given under “Farce mousseline” (No. 195), make the _soufflé_ preparation, and add thereto four tablespoonfuls of reduced and very cold Béchamel sauce per lb. of raw ham. Keep the forcemeat somewhat stiff, and finish it with the whites of four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth, per lb. of ham. 1425—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA Make the _soufflé_ preparation after one of the methods given above. Spread it in layers in a buttered timbale, alternating the layers of _soufflé_ with others of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. Smooth the surface to the shape of a dome; decorate with a fine slice of truffle, and cook in a moderate oven, of a temperature suited to this kind of preparation. Serve the _soufflé_ as soon as it is ready. If it be small, spread only one layer of asparagus-heads in the middle of it. If it be large, spread two or three layers of asparagus-heads. 1426—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON CARMEN Add to the selected one of the two _soufflé_ preparations—either will do—for one lb. of ham, the purée of one-half lb. of pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter with one half-capsicum, rubbed through a sieve and very much reduced. Dish the _soufflé_ in a buttered timbale; sprinkle the surface with a pinch of red capsicum, cut in fine _julienne_ fashion, and cook as described above. 1427—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON GASTRONOME Dish the selected ham _soufflé_ preparation in layers in a buttered timbale, and between each layer of it spread a litter of noodles, tossed in butter. Sprinkle the surface with chopped truffles; set a ball of truffle well in the centre of the _soufflé_, and cook in the usual way. 1428—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON MILANAISE Dish the ham _soufflé_ preparation in a buttered timbale, and spread it in alternate layers with a fine garnish à la Milanaise (No. 1258). Deck the surface with small pieces of poached macaroni, fried in butter; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook the _soufflé_ in a moderate oven. 1429—SOUFFLÉ DE JAMBON PERIGOURDINE Dish the soufflé preparation in layers in a buttered timbale, and between each layer spread a litter of truffle slices. Besprinkle the surface with chopped truffles, and cook the _soufflé_ in the usual way. 1430—MOUSSES ET MOUSSELINES CHAUDES DE JAMBON _Mousses_ and _Mousselines_ are made from the same preparation as “Farce mousseline de jambon,” in pursuance of the general principles given under No. 195. The need of differentiating the terms arises from the fact that _mousses_ are poached in a mould the contents of which are sufficient for a number of people, whereas _mousselines_ are spoon-moulded quenelles, shaped like eggs. In the preparation of “Farce mousseline de jambon” it is necessary to allow, in the salt seasoning, for the amount of salting the ham has already received. If the meat of the ham is not very red, the colour of the forcemeat may be intensified by means of a little vegetable red, in order that it may be of a distinct pink shade. 1431—TREATMENT AND ACCOMPANIMENT OF HAM MOUSSE Put the forcemeat in a deep border-mould, somewhat like a Charlotte, and poach it under cover in a _bain-marie_. That the poaching may be regular, keep in water at a constant temperature of 205° or 208° Fahrenheit, and allow forty-five minutes for the operation in the case of a _mousse_ made in a quart mould. The preparation is seen to be cooked when it swells and rises in the mould. As soon as this occurs, withdraw the latter from the _bain-marie_; let it stand for five minutes, that its contents may settle; turn it upside-down on a dish, and wait two minutes before removing the mould. In any case, do not take off the mould until the liquid which has drained from it, all round the dish, has been soaked up. Ham _mousses_ are chiefly accompanied by Suprême sauce, or Veloutés with curry or paprika; sometimes, too, a highly-seasoned and buttered half-glaze sauce, with Madeira, Port, or Marsala may be used. The most suitable garnishes for ham _mousses_ are those I have already given for Ham. 1432—TREATMENT AND POACHING OF HAM MOUSSELINES As I have already stated, _mousselines_, like quenelles, are moulded with a spoon. They may also be laid, by means of a piping-bag, on the bottom of the well-buttered sautépan in which they are to be poached; they are shaped like meringues, even or grooved, and, in either case, they are decorated with lozenges, crescents, or discs, &c., of ham or truffle. Having carried out the selected method of preparation, cover them with boiling water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. per quart, and poach them for from eighteen to twenty minutes, taking care to keep the water at a constant temperature of 208° F. These _mousselines_ may also be poached dry in a steamer or in a drying stove. 1433—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON ALEXANDRA Decorate the _mousselines_, prepared according to one of the two methods above described, with one lozenge of ham and another of truffle. Poach them; drain them well, and dish them in the form of a crown. Cover them with an Allemande sauce, flavoured with ham essence, and combined with two oz. of grated Parmesan per pint of the sauce, and glaze quickly. After taking the _mousselines_ out of the oven, set in their midst a heap of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter. 1434—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA FLORENTINE Spread a layer of shredded spinach, fried in butter, on a dish. Upon it set the poached and well-drained _mousselines_; cover them with the same sauce as that prescribed for the “Mousselines Alexandra,” and glaze them quickly. 1435—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON A LA HONGROISE Poach the _mousselines_, the forcemeat of which must be flavoured with paprika. Drain them; dish them in a circle; cover them with Hongroise sauce, and glaze them quickly. On withdrawing the dish from the oven, set a fine heap of baked cauliflowers with cheese in the middle of it. 1436—MOUSSELINES DE JAMBON AUX PETITS POIS Proceed exactly as described under No. 1433, but substitute for the asparagus-heads a garnish of very small peas cohered with butter. =Cold Ham.= 1437—JAMBON FROID A LA GELÉE When ham is to be dished cold, it should, if possible, be allowed to cool in its cooking-liquor, except when it has to be boned. In the latter case, take it out as soon as it is cooked; incise it underneath, following the edge of the cushion; detach and remove the bones. Now roll up the ham; bind it tightly in a piece of linen, and cool it under pressure. Whether boned or unboned, skin it when it is cold; remove some of its fat, and sprinkle it with cold, melted aspic until the latter covers it evenly. Dish it up; fix a frill to it, and surround it with fine aspic dice. 1438—JAMBON SOUFFLÉ FROID Proceed exactly as in No. 1421, but substitute for the _soufflé_ preparation therein described the cold ham _mousse_ below. 1439—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON _The Preparation of the Mousse._—Finely pound one lb. of very lean, cooked ham; add to it one-third pint of cold Velouté, and rub through a fine sieve. Put the resulting purée into a basin; season it; work it on ice for a few minutes, and mix therewith, little by little, one-quarter pint of melted aspic. Finally combine two-thirds pint of half-beaten cream with it. The _mousse_ may be moulded, either in an aspic-_clothed_ mould, decorated with truffles, as explained under No. 956, or in small _cassolettes_, lined with a thin strip of paper inside their brims, after the manner of small, cold _soufflés_. As the dishing and serving of _mousses_ are always the same, the reader is begged to refer to those recipes dealing with the question. 1440—MOUSSE FROIDE DE JAMBON A L’ALSACIENNE Take a deep, square dish and garnish it, half-full, with fine, ham _mousse_. Even the surface of this layer of _mousse_, and, when it has set, arrange upon it some shells, raised by means of a spoon dipped in hot water, from a foie-gras Parfait. As soon as this is done, pour over the foie-gras shells, a sufficient quantity to cover them of half-melted succulent chicken aspic with Madeira, and let this jelly set. When about to serve, incrust the dish in a block of ice. 1441—MOUSSE DE JAMBON AU BLANC DE POULET Garnish a deep, square dish with some ham _mousse_. When the latter has set, arrange thereon the _suprêmes_ of a very white, poached fowl. These _suprêmes_, cut into regular collops, should be coated with a white chaud-froid sauce. Cover with aspic, as directed under “Mousse à l’Alsacienne,” and serve. N.B.—If desired, the collops need not be coated with chaud-froid sauce, but, in this case, they should be covered with aspic. 1442—MOUSSELINES FROIDES DE JAMBON These _mousselines_ are made from the same preparation as that used for the _mousse_, and, but for the basic ingredient, which is not the same, they are treated after the manner described under “Petites Mousses de Homard” (No. 958). To avoid needless repetition, therefore, the reader will kindly substitute the word ham for lobster in the recipe just referred to.