A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a
2264 words | Chapter 40
further one-half pint of Marinade, and despumate for one-quarter of an
hour, keeping it simmering the while. Strain again through tammy, and
finish the sauce, when ready for dishing, with two oz. of butter.
This sauce is suitable for joints marinaded or not.
50—POIVRADE SAUCE FOR VENISON
Fry, with two oz. of butter and two oz. of oil, one lb. of raw Mirepoix
(No. 228) to which are added four lbs. of well-broken bones and
ground-game trimmings. When the whole is well browned, drain the grease
away, and dilute with one pint of vinegar and one pint of white wine.
Reduce this liquid by three-quarters, then add three quarts of game
stock and a quart of Espagnole Sauce. Boil, cover the saucepan, and put
into a moderate oven, where it should stay for at least three hours.
At the end of this time take out the saucepan and pour its contents
into a fine sieve placed over a tureen; press the remains so as to
expel all the sauce they hold, and pour the sauce into a tall, thick
saucepan. Add enough game stock and Marinade, mixed in equal parts,
to produce three quarts in all of sauce, and gently reduce the latter
while despumating it. As it diminishes in volume, it should be passed
through muslin into smaller saucepans, and the reduction should be
stopped when only a quart of sauce remains.
N.B.—This sauce, like red-wine sauces, may be served as it stands. It
is brilliant, clear, and perhaps more sightly thus, but the addition of
a certain quantity of butter (four oz. per quart) makes it perfectly
mellow, and admirably completes its fragrance.
51—PROVENÇALE SAUCE
Peel, remove the seeds, press and concass twelve medium tomatoes.
Heat in a sauté-pan one-fifth pint of oil, until it begins to smoke
a little; insert the tomatoes seasoned with pepper and salt; add a
crushed garlic clove, a pinch of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of
chopped parsley, and allow to melt gently for half an hour. In reality,
true Provençale is nothing but a fine fondue of tomatoes with garlic.
52—ROBERT SAUCE
Finely mince a large onion and put it into a stewpan with butter. Fry
the onion gently and without letting it acquire any colour. Dilute
with one-third pint of white wine, reduce the latter by one-third,
add one pint of half-glaze, and leave to simmer for twenty minutes.
When dishing up, finish the sauce with one tablespoonful of meat
glaze, one teaspoonful of mustard, and one pinch of powdered sugar.
If, when finished, the sauce has to wait, it should be kept warm in
a _bain-marie_, as it must not boil again. This sauce—of a spicy
flavour—is best suited to grilled and boiled pork. It may also be used
for a mince of the same meat.
53—ESCOFFIER ROBERTS SAUCE
This sauce may be bought ready-made. It is used either hot or cold. It
is especially suitable for pork, veal, poultry, and even fish, and is
generally used hot with grills after the equivalent of its volume of
excellent brown stock has been added to it. It may also be served cold
to accompany cold meat.
54—ROUENNAISE SAUCE
Prepare a “Bordelaise” sauce according to Formula No. 32. The diluent
of this sauce must be an excellent red wine. For one pint of sauce,
pass four raw ducks’ livers through a sieve; add the resulting purée to
the Bordelaise, and heat the latter for a few minutes in order to poach
the liver. Be careful, however, not to heat the sauce too much nor too
long, lest the liver be cooked. Serve this sauce with duckling à la
Rouennaise.
55—SALMIS SAUCE
The base of this sauce, which rather resembles the cullis, is
unchangeable. Its diluent only changes according to the kind of birds
or game to be treated, and whether this game is to be considered
ordinary or Lenten.
Cut and gently brown in butter five oz. of Mirepoix (Formula 228). Add
the shin detached from the limbs and the chopped carcase of the bird
under treatment, and moisten with one pint of white wine. Reduce the
latter to two-thirds, add one-half pint of half glaze, and boil gently
for three-quarters of an hour. Pass through a strainer, while pressing
upon the carcase and the aromatics, with the view of extracting their
quintessence, and thin the cullis thus obtained by means of one-half
pint of game stock or mushroom liquor, if the game be Lenten. Now
despumate for about one hour, finally reduce the sauce, bring it to its
proper consistency with a little mushroom liquor and truffle essence,
rub it through tammy, and butter it slightly at the last moment.
56—TORTUE SAUCE
Boil one-half pint of veal stock, adding a small sprig of sage, sweet
marjoram, rosemary, basil, thyme, and as much bay, two oz. of mushroom
parings, and one oz. of parsley. Cover and allow to infuse for half an
hour. Two minutes before straining the infusion, add four concassed
peppercorns.
After straining through fine linen, add one-half pint of half-glaze and
as much tomato sauce (away from the fire) with four tablespoonfuls of
sherry, a little truffle essence, and a good pinch of cayenne.
N.B.—As this sauce must be spicy, the use of cayenne suggests itself,
but great caution should be observed, as there must be no excess of
this condiment.
57—VENISON SAUCE
Prepare a Poivrade sauce for game, as explained in No. 50. Finish
this sauce with two tablespoonfuls of red-currant jelly, previously
dissolved, and mixed with five tablespoonfuls of fresh cream per pint
of sauce. This addition of cream and red-currants must be made away
from the fire.
Serve this sauce with big ground-game.
=Small White and Compound Sauces.=
58—AMERICAN SAUCE
This sauce is that of lobster prepared “à l’Américaine” (see No. 939).
As it generally accompanies a fish, the meat of the lobster or lobsters
which have served in its preparation is sliced and used as the garnish
of the fish.
59—ANCHOVY SAUCE
Put into a small stewpan one pint of unbuttered “Normande Sauce”
(No. 99), and finish it, away from the fire, with three oz. of anchovy
butter, and one oz. of anchovy fillets, washed, well sponged, and cut
into small pieces.
60—AURORE SAUCE
Into one-half pint of boiling velouté put the same quantity of very red
tomato purée (No. 29), and mix the two. Let the sauce boil a little,
pass it through a tammy, and finish, away from the fire, with three oz.
of butter.
61—LENTEN AURORE SAUCE
This sauce is made like the preceding one, _i.e._, with the same
quantities of velouté and tomato purée, replacing ordinary velouté by
fish velouté.
62—BÉARNAISE SAUCE
Put into a small stewpan one teaspoonful of chopped shallots, two oz.
of chopped tarragon stalks, three oz. of chervil, some mignonette
pepper, a pinch of salt, and four tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Reduce
the vinegar by two-thirds, take off the fire, let the stewpan cool a
little, and add to this reduction the yolks of five eggs. Now put the
stewpan on a low fire and gradually combine with the yolks six oz. of
melted butter. Whisk the sauce briskly, so as to ensure the cooking of
the yolks, which alone, by gradual cooking, effect the leason of the
sauce.
When the butter is combined with the sauce, rub the latter through
tammy, and finish it with a teaspoonful of chervil parings and chopped
tarragon leaves. Complete the seasoning with a suspicion of cayenne.
This sauce should not be served very hot, as it is really a mayonnaise
with butter. It need only be tepid, for it would probably turn if it
were over-heated. Serve it with grilled, butcher’s meat and poultry.
63—BÉARNAISE SAUCE WITH MEAT GLAZE, OTHERWISE VALOIS SAUCE OR FOYOT
SAUCE
Prepare a Béarnaise sauce as explained in No. 62. Complete it with
three tablespoonfuls of dissolved pale meat glaze, which may be added
in small quantities at a time. Serve it with butcher’s meat.
64—BÉARNAISE TOMATÉE SAUCE OR CHORON SAUCE
Proceed in exactly the same way as for Béarnaise No. 62. When the sauce
is made and rubbed through tammy, finish it with one-third pint of
very red tomato purée. In this case the final addition of chervil and
tarragon should not be made.
This is proper to “Tournedos Choron,” but it may accompany grilled
poultry and white, butcher’s meat.
65—BERCY SAUCE
Heat two oz. of chopped shallots. Moisten with one-half pint of white
wine and as much fish _fumet_, or, when possible, the same quantity of
fish liquor, the latter being, of course, that of a fish similar to the
one the sauce is to accompany. Reduce to a good third, add one-third
pint of velouté, let the sauce boil some time, and finish it, away from
the fire, with four oz. of butter (added by degrees), a few drops of
fish glaze, half the juice of a lemon, and one oz. of chopped parsley.
Serve with medium-sized poached fish.
66—BUTTER SAUCE
Mix two oz. of sifted flour with two oz. of melted butter. Dilute with
one quart of boiling water, salted to the extent of one-quarter oz. per
quart. Stir briskly to ensure a perfect leason, and do not allow to
boil. Add immediately the yolks of six eggs mixed with one-quarter pint
of cream and the juice of half a lemon. Rub through a tammy, and finish
the sauce with five oz. of best fresh butter.
Be careful that the sauce does not boil after it has been thickened.
67—BONNEFOY SAUCE, OR WHITE BORDELAISE SAUCE
Put in a stewpan two oz. of minced shallots and one-half pint of
Graves, Sauterne, or any other excellent white Bordeaux. Reduce the
wine almost entirely, add one-quarter pint of velouté, let it simmer
twenty minutes, and rub it through a tammy. Finish it, away from the
fire, with six oz. of butter and a little chopped tarragon.
Serve it with grilled fish and grilled white meat.
68—CAPER SAUCE
This is a derivative of the Butter Sauce described under No. 66, and
there need only be added two tablespoonfuls of capers per pint of
sauce. It frequently accompanies boiled fish of all kinds.
69—CARDINAL SAUCE
Boil one pint of Béchamel, to which add one-half pint of fish _fumet_
and a little truffle essence, and reduce by a quarter. Finish the
sauce, when dishing up, with three tablespoonfuls of cream and
three oz. of very red lobster butter (No. 149).
This sauce is poured over the fish.
70—MUSHROOM SAUCE
If this be intended for poultry, add one-fifth pint of mushroom liquor
and eight oz. of button-mushroom heads turned or channelled and cooked,
to one pint of very stiff Allemande Sauce.
If it be intended for fish, take one pint of fish velouté, thickened
with the yolks of four eggs, and finish it with mushroom liquor, as
above.
The sauce that I suggest for poultry may also be used for fish, after
adding the necessary quantity of fish _fumet_.
71—CHÂTEAUBRIAND SAUCE
Put one oz. of chopped shallots, a sprig of thyme and a bit of bay,
one oz. of mushroom parings, and one-quarter pint of white wine into
a stewpan. Reduce the wine almost entirely, add one-half pint of veal
gravy, and reduce again until the liquid only measures one-quarter
pint. Strain through muslin, and finish the sauce away from the fire
with four oz. of butter “Maître d’Hôtel” (No. 150), to which may be
added a little chopped tarragon. Serve with grilled fillet of beef,
otherwise “Châteaubriand.”
72—WHITE CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Boil one pint of velouté in a stewpan, and add three-quarters pint of
melted white poultry jelly. Put the stewpan on an open fire, reduce
the sauce by a third, stirring constantly the while, and gradually
add one-half pint of very fresh cream. When the sauce has reached the
desired degree of consistency rub it through a tammy, and stir it
frequently while it cools, for fear of a skin forming on its surface,
for if this happened it would have to be strained again. When dishing
up, this sauce should be cold, so that it may properly coat immersed
solids and yet be liquid enough to admit of the latter being easily
steeped into it.
73—ORDINARY CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Proceed exactly as above, substituting Allemande Sauce for the velouté,
and reducing the quantity of cream to one-quarter pint. Observe the
same precautions while cooling.
74—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, A L’AURORE
Prepare a white Chaud-Froid (No. 72). The same may be coloured by the
addition of fine red tomato purée—more or less to match the desired
shade—or by an infusion of paprika, according to the use for which it
is intended. This last product is preferable when not too deep a shade
is required.
75—CHAUD-FROID SAUCE, AU VERT-PRÉ
Add to the velouté of the white Chaud-Froid sauce, at the same time as
the jelly, an infusion prepared thus:—Boil one-quarter pint of white
wine, and add to it one pinch of chervil stalks, a similar quantity of
tarragon leaves, chives, and parsley leaves. Cover, allow infusion to
proceed away from the fire for ten minutes, and strain through linen.
Treat the sauce as explained, and finish with spinach-green (No. 143).
The shade of the sauce must not be too pronounced, but must remain
a pale green. The colouring principle must therefore be added with
caution and in small quantities, until the correct shade is obtained.
Use this sauce for Chaud-froids of fowl, particularly that kind
distinguished as “_Printanier_.”
76—LENT CHAUD-FROID SAUCE
Proceed as for white Chaud-Froid, using the same quantities, and taking
note of the following modifications:—
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