7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the

leaves cooked in the English way, provided they be young and tender. 2096—WHITE CABBAGES (Choux Blancs) In an extreme case, these cabbages may be braised like the green Savoys, but they are usually too firm, and they are therefore only used in the preparation of sauerkraut. 2097—SAUERKRAUT (Choucroûte) If the sauerkraut be somewhat old, set it to soak in cold water for a few hours. It is best, however, to avoid this measure, if possible, and to use only fresh sauerkraut. When about to cook it, drain it, if it has been soaked, and press all the water out of it. Then pull it to pieces in such a way as to leave no massed leaves; season it with salt and pepper, and put it into a braising-pan lined with slices of bacon. Add, for ten lbs. of sauerkraut, three quartered carrots, three medium-sized onions, each stuck with a clove, a large faggot, three oz. of juniper berries and one-half oz. of peppercorns contained in a canvas bag, six oz. of goose dripping or lard, and one lb. of _blanched_ breast of bacon, the latter to be withdrawn after one hour’s cooking. Moisten, just enough to cover, with white consommé; cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then cook in the oven for five hours with lid on. _To serve Sauerkraut._—Withdraw the vegetables, the faggot, and the juniper berries, and set the sauerkraut in a timbale, after having well drained it. Surround it with thin slices of ham, rectangles of bacon, and some poached Frankfort or Strasburg sausages. =Red Cabbages (Choux Rouges)= 2098—CHOUX ROUGES A LA FLAMANDE Quarter the cabbages, suppress the outside leaves and the stumps, and cut the trimmed leaves into a fine _julienne_. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; sprinkle with vinegar, and put this _julienne_ into a well-buttered earthenware _cocotte_. Cover and cook in a moderate oven. When the cooking is three-parts done, add four peeled and quartered russet apples and a tablespoonful of moist or powdered sugar. Take note that the cooking must be gentle from start to finish, and that the only moistening should be the vinegar. 2099—MARINADED RED CABBAGES FOR HORS-D’ŒUVRE Cut the cabbages into a small _julienne_ as above, and put them into a bowl or deep dish. Sprinkle with table salt, and leave to macerate for two days, stirring frequently the while. Then drain, and put them into a pot with garlic cloves, peppercorns, and one bay leaf. Cover with raw vinegar, or the latter boiled and cooled, and leave to _marinade_ for a day or two. This _marinaded_ cabbage forms an excellent adjunct to boiled beef. =Choux Verts Pommés (Savoy Cabbages)= 2100—BRAISED CABBAGE Quarter the cabbage; parboil and cool it. Defoliate the quarters; suppress the outside leaves and the midribs of the remaining leaves; season with salt and pepper, and put the cabbage in a saucepan garnished with slices of bacon, and containing one quartered carrot, one onion stuck with a garlic clove, one faggot, two-thirds pint of consommé, and three tablespoonfuls of stock fat per two lbs. of cabbage. Cover with slices of bacon; boil, and then braise gently for two hours. 2101—CHOU A L’ANGLAISE Plainly boil or steam the cabbage. Press all the water out of it, between two plates, and cut it into lozenges or squares. 2102—CHOU FARCI Take a medium-sized round-headed or Savoy cabbage; parboil it; cool it, and suppress its stump. Slightly open out its leaves, and insert between them raw or cooked mince-meat, combined with chopped onion and parsley, and highly seasoned. Reconstruct the cabbage, pressing it closely together; wrap it in slices of bacon; string it, and braise it gently for three hours with stock and stock fat. When about to serve, drain the cabbage; remove the string and the slices of bacon; set it on a dish, and cover it with a few tablespoonfuls of the braising-liquor, cleared of all grease, reduced, and thickened with some half-glaze sauce. Send what remains of the braising-liquor separately. N.B.—The preparation is improved if the mince-meat with which the cabbage is stuffed be combined with a quarter of its bulk of pilaff rice and the same quantity of foie-gras fat. 2103—SOU-FASSUM PROVENÇAL Parboil and cool the cabbage as above; remove the outer large leaves, and set them on a net. Upon this litter of cabbage leaves lay the following products, mixed:— The inside leaves of the cabbage, chopped up and seasoned; one-half lb. of _ciseled_ and _blanched_ white of a leek; one and three-quarter lbs. of sausage-meat; six oz. of lean bacon, cut into dice and frizzled; one chopped onion, fried in butter; two chopped tomatoes; a crushed clove of garlic; three oz. of _blanched_ rice and four oz. of fresh, young peas. Gather up the ends of the net, and close it in such a way as to reconstruct the cabbage. Cook it in mutton broth or in ordinary stock for three and one-half or four hours. Serve the sou-fassum plain, on a round dish. 2104—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_A_ Parboil, cool, and thoroughly drain the cabbage. Remove as many large leaves as there are balls of stuffed cabbage required, and, if the leaves be too small, use two for each ball. Chop up the remains of the cabbage; season them with salt and pepper; put a small portion of them on each of the leaves; close the latter in the shape of balls, and set them one by one in a sautépan. Then proceed, for the cooking, as directed under “Braised Cabbage.” 2105—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_B_ Prepare the cabbage as above; insert into the centre of each ball a portion of smooth pork forcemeat, the size of a pigeon’s egg, and braise in the same way. 2106—CABBAGES FOR GARNISH.—_C_ Parboil the necessary quantity of cabbage leaves, in accordance with the number of balls required. Cool them; spread them out; garnish the middle of each with one tablespoonful of pilaff rice, mixed with foie-gras purée, and close up the leaves to form small packets. Braise as in the case of No. 2104. 2107—SCOTCH KALE (Chou frisé), SPRING CABBAGE (Choux de Printemps), BROCCOLI LEAVES, TURNIP-TOPS These various kinds of greens are prepared in the English way, as described above, or they may be prepared with butter, like Brussels sprouts. The two above-mentioned modes of preparation are the only ones that suit them. 2108—CAULIFLOWER AND BROCCOLI (Chou-fleur et Broccoli) Broccoli differs from cauliflower in the colour of its flower and the arrangement of the parts of the latter. In the broccoli the flower is of a deep violet. English broccoli never reach the size of those grown in the South of France. Many do not even grow to a head, while their flowers—the size of hazel-nuts—are scattered among the interstices of the surrounding leaves. Cauliflowers and large broccoli allow of the same treatment. 2109—CHOU-FLEUR A LA CRÈME Cut the cauliflowers into bunches; remove the small leaves which are attached, and cook the cauliflower in salted water. Thoroughly drain; set the bunches in a timbale, reconstructing the cauliflower in so doing, or on a dish covered with a folded napkin, and serve a cream sauce separately. 2110—CHOU-FLEUR AU GRATIN Having well drained the cauliflower, dry it in butter for a few minutes; mould it in a bowl, and pour a few tablespoonfuls of Mornay sauce into it. Coat the bottom of a dish with the same sauce, and turn out the cauliflower on the dish; completely cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese mixed with raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form. 2111—CHOU-FLEUR A LA MILANAISE Set the cauliflower on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese. Also sprinkle the cauliflower with cheese; add a few pieces of butter, and set the _gratin_ to form. On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the cauliflower with nut-brown butter, and serve immediately. 2112—CHOU-FLEUR A LA POLONAISE Thoroughly drain the cauliflower, and set it on a buttered dish. Sprinkle it with chopped, hard-boiled egg-yolks and chopped parsley, mixed. When about to serve, bedew with nut-brown butter, in which one-half oz. of fine bread-crumbs (per three oz. of butter) should have been fried. 2113—CAULIFLOWER WITH VARIOUS SAUCES Cook the cauliflower in salted water. Drain it thoroughly, and set it in a timbale. Serve at the same time either a sauceboat of _Melted Butter_, _a Butter_, _a Hollandaise_, or _a Mousseline_ sauce, &c. 2114—PURÉE DE CHOU-FLEUR dite A LA DUBARRY Cook the cauliflower in salted water; drain it well; rub it through tammy, and combine the resulting purée with one quarter of its bulk of somewhat firm, mashed potatoes with cream. Heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale. =Brussels Sprouts (Choux de Bruxelles)= 2115—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A L’ANGLAISE Cook them in salted water; drain them well, and dish them on a drainer or in a timbale. 2116—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES A LA CRÈME Cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them; stew them in butter, and chop them up. Then combine them with as much fresh cream as possible. 2117—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES SAUTÉS Cook them, and, after having thoroughly drained them, throw them into an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter. Toss them until they are nicely frizzled; dish them in a timbale, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley. 2118—CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AU BEURRE Cook them, keeping them somewhat firm, and drain without cooling them. Put them into a sautépan; season them with salt and pepper; add two oz. of butter (per lb. of sprouts) cut into small pieces; cover, and stew in the oven for one-quarter hour. 2119—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES dite FLAMANDE Three-parts cook the sprouts; drain them well without cooling them, and complete their cooking by stewing them in butter. Rub them through tammy, and add to the resulting purée one-third of its bulk of mashed potatoes. Heat, add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale. 2120—SEA KALE (Chou Marin) This is one of the best and most delicate of English vegetables. It is trimmed with great care, washed, and then tied into bunches of from five to six plants, and these are plainly cooked in salted water. All cardoon recipes, and sauces given for asparagus, may be applied to sea kale. 2121—CUCUMBER AND VEGETABLE MARROW (Concombres et Courgettes) Though of different shapes, these two vegetables allow of almost the same treatment when they are cooked. They are especially used as garnishes. 2122—CONCOMBRES A LA CRÈME Peel, and cut the cucumber to shapes resembling olives; parboil and drain these pieces. This done, three-parts cook them in butter; moisten with boiling cream, and finish the cooking in reducing the cream. At the very last moment add a little Béchamel sauce with the view of slightly thickening the preparation, and dish in a timbale. 2123—CONCOMBRES GLACÉS After having shaped them like large garlic cloves, quickly parboil them. This done, treat them as directed under “Carottes glacées,” and roll them sufficiently in their cooking-liquor, reduced to the consistence of a thick syrup, to thoroughly coat them with it. 2124—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_A_ Cut the cucumbers into two-inch lengths; peel, parboil, and drain them. Then hollow them out to form small, round cases; set them side by side in a sautépan, and cook them in butter. When they are three-parts cooked, fill them with a raw, chicken forcemeat, effecting this operation by means of a piping-bag. The forcemeat should be slightly moulded in the cucumber cases. Complete the cooking of the cucumber, gently, while poaching the forcemeat. 2125—CONCOMBRES FARCIS.—_B_ Peel the cucumbers; split them open lengthwise, and empty them by means of a root-spoon. This done, parboil and drain without cooling them. Garnish each half-cucumber, level with the edges, with a chicken forcemeat, prepared with frangipan, and combined with a third of its weight of Duxelles. Reconstruct the cucumbers by placing the halves one against the other; wrap them each in a slice of bacon, and then in a piece of muslin, and finally string them. This done, braise them in the usual way. When they are cooked, remove their wrappings, and cut them into roundels the thickness of which is determined by the size of the piece of which they are the adjuncts. 2126—STACHYS (Crosnes du Japon) Whatever be their mode of preparation, stachys must be cleaned, parboiled, and kept firm, and cooked in butter without colouration. 2127—CROSNES A LA CRÈME After having parboiled the stachys and three-parts cooked them in butter, moisten with boiling cream, and complete their cooking while reducing the cream. Add a little thin, fresh cream at the last moment, and dish in a timbale. 2128—CROSNES SAUTÉS AU BEURRE After having parboiled, drained, and dried the stachys, put them in an omelet-pan containing some very hot butter, and toss them over a fierce fire, until they are well frizzled. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley. 2129—CROSNES AU VELOUTÉ Completely cook the stachys in salted water. Drain them, and cohere them with the required quantity of Velouté flavoured with mushroom essence. 2130—CROQUETTES DE CROSNES Having cooked the stachys in salted water, and kept them somewhat firm, thoroughly drain them and mix them with a very reduced Allemande sauce, in the proportion of one-fifth pint per lb. of stachys. Spread this preparation on a buttered dish, and cool. Now cut this preparation into portions weighing about two oz.; shape these portions like balls, pears, quoits, or otherwise, dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in very fine bread-crumbs. Plunge these croquettes into very hot fat five or six minutes before serving; drain them on a piece of linen; salt moderately, and dish on a napkin with very green, fried parsley. 2131—PURÉE DE CROSNES Cook the stachys in salted water, keeping them somewhat firm, and add thereto four oz. of quartered potatoes per lb. of stachys. As soon as they are cooked, drain the stachys and the potatoes; rub them through a sieve, and dry the purée over a very fierce fire. Add the necessary quantity of milk to bring the purée to its proper consistence; heat; add butter away from the fire, and dish in a timbale. 2132—SPINACH (Épinards) Spinach should only be prepared at the last moment, if possible. After having parboiled it in plenty of boiling salted water, cool it, press out all its contained water, and, according to circumstances, either chop it up or rub it through a sieve. If it has to be served with the leaves left whole, merely drain it on a sieve, without either pressing or cooling it. 2133—ÉPINARDS A L’ANGLAISE Cook it after having carefully shredded it; drain it well, and dish in a timbale without cooling. 2134—ÉPINARDS A LA CRÈME Having chopped up or rubbed the spinach through a sieve, put it into a sautépan with two oz. of butter per lb., and dry it over a fierce fire. Now add the quarter of its bulk of cream sauce to it, and simmer gently for ten minutes. Dish in a timbale when about to serve, and sprinkle the surface with fresh cream. 2135—ÉPINARDS AU GRATIN Dry the spinach as above in three oz. of butter per lb., and then, in the same proportion, add two and one-half oz. of grated cheese. Set on a buttered _gratin_-dish; sprinkle copiously with grated cheese and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven. 2136—ÉPINARDS A LA VIROFLAY Spread some large leaves of _blanched_ spinach on a napkin, and in the middle of each lay a _subric_, the substance of which should have been combined with very small _croûtons_ of bread-crumb fried in butter. Wrap the _subrics_ in the spinach leaves; cover with Mornay sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set to glaze in a fierce oven. 2137—SUBRICS D’ÉPINARDS Dry the spinach in butter as described above, and add to it per lb. of spinach (away from the fire) one-sixth pint of very reduced Béchamel sauce; two tablespoonfuls of thick cream; one egg and the yolks of three, well beaten; salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Make a sufficient quantity of clarified butter very hot in an omelet-pan. Take up some of the preparation of spinach by means of a spoon, and let the contents of the latter drop (propelled by the finger) into the butter. Proceed thus in the making of the _subrics_, and take care that they do not touch. When a minute has elapsed, turn them over with a spatula or a fork, that their other sides may colour. Set on a dish or in a timbale, and serve a cream sauce separately. 2138—CRÊPES AUX ÉPINARDS Parboil some well-shredded spinach; dry it in butter; season it, and add to it an equal quantity of Yorkshire-pudding paste (No. 1943). Cook this preparation in a small, well-buttered omelet-pan or in deep tartlet-moulds. N.B.—These spinach pancakes constitute an excellent garnish for Relevés of Beef, Veal, and Ham. 2139—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS Make a composition after the directions given under No. 2092. Spread this composition in two or three layers, and set on each of the latter a litter of well-cleaned and soaked anchovy fillets, arranged to form a lattice. Finish with a layer of spinach shaped like a dome, and set thereon two crossed rows of anchovy fillets. Cook after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_. 2140—SOUFFLÉ AUX ÉPINARDS AUX TRUFFES Proceed as directed in the preceding recipe, but substitute anchovy fillets for some fine slices of truffle. N.B.—Both these spinach _soufflés_ may be served either as vegetables, in which case they are moulded in large timbales, or as garnishes, when they are dished in small _cassolettes_ of appropriate size. They are very delicate preparations, which may be varied by watercress _soufflé_—prepared in the same way. 2141—FEUILLES DE VIGNE FARCIES OU DOLMAS (Stuffed Vine Leaves) Provided the vine-leaves be very tender, they may serve in the preparation of the following garnish:—Suppress their stalks; parboil the leaves; drain them well, and arrange three or four at a time in the form of a circular tray, in the centre of which lay a tablespoonful of pilaff rice to which some foie-gras purée has been added. This done, draw the ends of the leaves over the rice, so as to enclose it and to form regular balls of equal size. Put these balls, well-pressed, one against the other in a sautépan, the bottom of which should be garnished with slices of bacon; cover with thin slices of bacon; moisten just enough to cover, with good consommé; boil, and then braise gently. 2142—TUBEROUS FENNEL (Fenouil Tubéreux) This vegetable is not very well known in England, where it is sold only by the leading merchants of early-season vegetables. It is prepared like the cardoons and the marrows. 2143—BROAD BEANS (Fèves) Broad beans should be shelled just before being cooked, and it is quite the rule to peel them. Boil them in salted water containing a bunch of savory, the size of which should be in proportion to the quantity of broad beans. When they are cooked and drained, add the leaves of savory (chopped) to them. 2144—FÈVES AU BEURRE Having well-drained and peeled the broad beans, toss them over a fierce fire to dry them, and then finish them, away from the fire, with three oz. of butter per lb. of beans. 2145—FÈVES A LA CRÈME After having dried and peeled the broad beans, cohere them (per lb.) with three tablespoonfuls of thick, fresh cream. 2146—PURÉE DE FÈVES Proceed exactly as for purée of peas. This purée constitutes a very delicate garnish, which is particularly well suited to ham. 2147—GOMBOS This vegetable—so common in America and the East—is only very rarely used in England, where, however, it is now beginning to be better known. There are two kinds of Gombos: the long and the round kind. The latter is also called _Bamia_ or _Bamiès_. Both kinds are prepared after the same recipes. 2148—GOMBOS A LA CRÈME After having trimmed them, parboil them in salted water and drain them. Then cook them in butter, and, just before serving them, cohere them with a cream sauce. 2149—GOMBOS POUR GARNITURES Parboil the gombos until they are two-thirds cooked. Drain them well, and complete their cooking in the braising-liquor of the piece they are to accompany. If they are to garnish a poulet _sauté_, complete their cooking in some thin veal gravy. 2150—HOP SPROUTS (Jets de Houblon) The eatable part is separated from the fibrous by breaking off the ends of the sprouts, as in the case of asparagus or sprew. After having washed them in several waters, cook them in salted water containing, per every quart, the juice of one half-lemon. Hop sprouts may be prepared with butter, cream, velouté, &c. When served as a vegetable, they are invariably accompanied by poached eggs, which are laid in a crown round them and alternated by comb-shaped _croûtons_ fried in butter. =Haricot-Beans (Haricots Blancs)= 2151—HARICOTS BLANCS A L’AMÉRICAINE (Lima Beans) Cook the beans as described under No. 274. But add to the prescribed ingredients one-half lb. of lean bacon per pint of dry beans. When they are cooked and well drained, mix them with the bacon cut into dice, and cohere them with some good tomato sauce. 2152—HARICOTS BLANCS AU BEURRE Having well drained the haricot-beans, season them with salt and pepper and cohere them with two oz. of butter per lb. of cooked beans. Dish in a timbale and sprinkle with chopped parsley. 2153—HARICOTS BLANCS A LA BRETONNE Drain them well and cohere them with a Bretonne sauce, in the proportion of one-third pint of sauce per lb. of cooked haricot-beans. Dish in a timbale with chopped parsley. 2154—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS dite SOISSONNAISE Rub the haricot-beans through a sieve while they are burning-hot. Add to the purée (per lb. thereof) three oz. of butter; dry it over a very fierce fire, and then add some milk to it, to bring it to its proper consistence. 2155—FLAGEOLETS (Haricots Flageolets) These beans are used more especially fresh; but, when they are out of season, recourse is often had to preserved or dried flageolets. They are prepared in the same way as haricot-beans. Their purée, which is very delicate, is known under the name of “Purée Musard,” and it is particularly suitable for the garnishing of mutton. It is also used as a thickening ingredient in the purée of French beans, and nothing can equal it for the purpose; for, not only is it an unctuous thickening medium, but its flavour is peculiarly adapted to the throwing into relief of that of the French beans. 2156—RED BEANS (Haricots Rouges) Red beans are cooked in salted water with one-third lb. of lean bacon, one pint of red wine, one carrot, one onion stuck with a clove, and one faggot per quart of beans. The bacon should be withdrawn as soon as cooked. These beans are cohered by means of _manied_ butter, and they are then mixed with the bacon, which is cut into dice and frizzled in butter. 2157—FRENCH BEANS (Haricots Verts) French beans are among the greatest vegetable delicacies; but they have to be prepared with the utmost care. Their quality is such that they are almost always good, in spite of faulty preparation—so common in their case; but, when they are cooked with care, no other vegetable can surpass them in perfection of flavour. They should be taken quite fresh, and they should not be cooked too long. They are best when they seem a little firm to the teeth, without, of course, being in the least hard. They must not be cooled when cooked; they should only be _sautéd_ over the fire with the view of causing the evaporation of their moisture. After having seasoned them with salt and pepper, add to them (per lb.) about three oz. of very fresh butter, cut into small pieces; _sauté_ them so as to effect their leason, and straightway serve them. Do not add chopped parsley to French beans, unless it be very tender and gathered and chopped at the last moment. 2158—HARICOTS PANACHÉS This consists of French beans and flageolets, in equal quantities, cohered with butter. 2159—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS Cook the French beans in salted water; drain them well, and stew them in butter for eight or ten minutes. Rub them through a fine sieve, and mix the resulting purée with half its bulk of very creamy, flageolet purée. =Lettuces (Laitues)= 2160—LAITUES BRAISÉES AU JUS After having parboiled, cooled, and pressed the water out of them, tie them together in twos or threes, and braise them as directed under No. 275. This done, cut them in two, unfold the end of each half, and set them on a dish, in the form of a crown; alternating them with heart-shaped _croûtons_ fried in butter. Or, merely dish them in a timbale. Coat them with the reduced braising-liquor combined with some thickened veal gravy. N.B.—Braised lettuces may also be stuffed after the manner described under No. 2106. 2161—LAITUES A LA MOELLE Braise and dish the lettuces as above. Upon the turban of lettuces, set a crown of large slices of poached marrow, and coat with a moderately thick buttered gravy. 2162—LAITUES FARCIES Parboil, cool, and press the lettuces. This done, open them in the middle without touching their stems, and garnish them with good forcemeat, combined with half its bulk of dry Duxelles (No. 223). Reconstruct the lettuces; string them; braise them, and dish them as directed under No. 2160. 2163—LAITUES FARCIES POUR GARNITURE Proceed as directed under Nos. 2104 to 2106. 2164—LAITUES A LA CRÈME Proceed as directed under No. 2089. 2165—SOUFFLÉ DE LAITUES Proceed as directed under No. 2139. =Lentils (Lentilles)= Lentils are cooked as directed under the “preparation of dry vegetables” (No. 274). 2166—LENTILLES AU BEURRE Carefully drain the lentils; dry them by tossing them over the fire, and cohere them with butter in the proportion of two oz. of the latter per lb. of lentils. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a little chopped parsley. 2167—PURÉE DE LENTILLES Proceed as for the purée of haricot-beans. 2168—VÉRONIQUE (Laver) As this vegetable is sold already cooked at English markets, it is only necessary to add enough good Espagnole sauce to it, when heating it, to make a properly consistent purée. 2169—MAIZE (Maïs) Take the maize when it is quite fresh and still milky, and cook it either in steam or salted water; taking care to retain the leaves on the ears. When cooked, the leaves are drawn back so as to represent stalks, and the ears are bared if they be served whole. This done, set the ears on a napkin, and send a hors-d’œuvre dish of fresh butter to the table with them. If the maize has to be grilled, put the ears on a grill in the oven, and, when they have swollen and are of a golden colour, withdraw the grains and set the latter on a napkin. Sometimes, too, the ears are served whole. When maize is served as an accompaniment, the grains are separated from the stalk and cohered with butter or cream, exactly like peas. Failing fresh maize, excellent preserved kinds are to be found on the market. 2170—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS A LA CRÈME Cook the maize in water or steam; rub it quickly through tammy; put it into a saucepan with a small piece of butter, and quickly dry it. This done, add sufficient fresh cream to this purée to make a somewhat soft paste. Thicken this paste with the yolks of three eggs, per lb. of purée, and combine it with the whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Mould and cook after the manner of an ordinary _soufflé_. 2171—SOUFFLÉ DE MAÏS AU PAPRIKA Before rubbing the maize through a sieve, add to it two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion fried in butter, and a large pinch of paprika per lb. of maize. Proceed for the rest of the operation as in the case of No. 2170. N.B.—These two _soufflés_ are served as a garnish and may be cooked either in a timbale or in small _cassolettes_. They constitute excellent adjuncts to large, poached fowls. 2172—CHESTNUTS (Marrons) Slightly split open the shell on the convex sides of the nuts, and put them in the oven for from seven to eight minutes, on a tray containing a little water, that they may be shelled with ease. Or, split them open in the same way; put them in small quantities at a time in a frying-basket, and plunge them into very hot fat. Peel them while they are still quite hot. 2173—STEWED CHESTNUTS As soon as they are peeled, cook them in enough consommé to just cover them, and add half a stick of celery per lb. of chestnuts. If they are intended for the stuffing of a goose or a turkey, keep them somewhat firm. 2174—BRAISED AND GLAZED CHESTNUTS Take some very large chestnuts, and dip them in hot fat in order to peel them. Then set them in one layer, one against the other in a sautépan. If they were heaped, only a poor result could be obtained. Moisten them, just enough to cover, with strong veal stock, and stir them as little as possible while they are cooking, so as to avoid breaking them. When they are three-parts cooked, reduce the moistening, and gently roll the chestnuts in the glaze resulting from this reduction, that they may be covered with a brilliant coating. Chestnuts prepared in this way serve more particularly as a garnish. 2175—PURÉE DE MARRONS Having thoroughly peeled the chestnuts, cook them in white consommé, with a celery stalk as in the case of No. 2173, and one-half oz. of sugar per lb. of chestnuts. Continue cooking until they may be easily crushed; rub them through tammy, and treat the purée as directed in the case of the preceding ones. 2176—TURNIPS (Navets) Whether served as vegetables or as a garnish, turnips are prepared like carrots. They may, therefore, either be served glazed, or “à la Crème,” &c. They may also be served stuffed, after the following recipes:— 2177—STUFFED TURNIPS.—_A_ Take some round, medium-sized turnips, fairly equal in size. Peel them, and, in so doing, shape them nicely; then, by means of a round fancy-cutter, cut them deeply at their base, pressing the instrument into the pulp. This done, thoroughly parboil and empty them. With the withdrawn pulp, prepare a purée, to which add an equal quantity of mashed potatoes. Garnish the turnips with this purée, and shape the visible portion of the latter dome-fashion. Set the stuffed turnips in a sautépan, and complete their cooking in butter, taking care to baste them frequently. 2178—STUFFED TURNIPS.—_B_ Prepare the turnips as above; but stuff them with a preparation of semolina cooked in consommé and combined with grated Parmesan. Complete the cooking as directed in the preceding recipe. N.B.—Proceeding in the same way, turnips may be stuffed with spinach, chicory, and even with farinaceous vegetables or rice, kept very creamy. All these garnishes are at once sightly and excellent. 2179—PURÉE DE NAVETS (Turnip Purée) Slice the turnips and cook them in a little butter, salt, sugar, and the necessary amount of water. Rub through tammy, and thicken the resulting purée with only just the required quantity of very good mashed potatoes. 2180—TURNIP-TOPS Young turnip-tops are very much liked in England as a luncheon vegetable. They should be prepared like “Choux verts cooked _à l’anglaise_.” =Onions (Oignons)= 2181—STUFFED ONIONS Take some medium-sized, mild, Spanish onions; cut them at a point one-quarter of their height from the top, and parboil them thoroughly. Empty them, leaving only a wall one-third in. thick; chop up the withdrawn parts, and mix them with an equal quantity of Duxelles (No. 225). Garnish the emptied onions with this preparation; complete their cooking by braising them, and glaze them at the last moment, simultaneously with the formation of the _gratin_. N.B.—Proceed in the same way for onions stuffed with spinach, Rizotto, or semolina, &c., as suggested under Nos. 2177 and 2178. Onions may also be garnished with a _soufflé_ preparation of spinach, tomatoes, chicory, &c. Herein lies scope for a great variety of excellent and uncommon garnishes. 2182—FRIED ONIONS Cut them into roundels one-fifth in. thick; separate the rings; season them with salt and pepper; dredge them and fry them in very hot oil. Drain on a piece of linen and salt slightly. Onions prepared in this way are used particularly as an accompaniment. 2183—GLAZED ONIONS _For the preparation without colouration_: Peel some small onions of equal size without grazing them. Set them to cook in enough white consommé to almost cover them, and two oz. of butter per pint of consommé. At the last moment roll them in their cooking-liquor, reduced to a glaze. _For the preparation with colouration_: Cook the onions very gently in butter, with a pinch of powdered sugar, so that the cooking and the colouring may be effected together. 2184—PURÉE D’OIGNONS, dite SOUBISE See No. 104, in the chapter on sauces. 2185—SORREL (Oseille) Having shredded the sorrel and washed it in several waters, set it to cook gently in a little water. This done, thoroughly drain it on a sieve and mix it with a pale roux, consisting of two oz. of butter and one oz. of flour. Add one and one-quarter pints of consommé, salt, and a pinch of sugar to it, and braise it in the oven for two hours. Then rub it through tammy; thicken it with the yolks of six eggs or three whole eggs beaten to a stiff froth and strained through a strainer. Heat, and finish with one-sixth pint of cream and five oz. of butter. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with strong, veal stock. 2186—OXALIS Cook this in boiling salted water after having well cleaned and washed it. It may then be prepared “à la Crème,” stuffed, or “au Gratin.” Oxalis purée is called Purée Brésilienne, and is prepared in the same way as turnip purée. 2187—SWEET POTATOES Sweet potatoes are generally served, baked in their skins, and accompanied by fresh butter. They may also be prepared according to the majority of potato-recipes, especially the following:— _Sautées_, _Gratinées_, _Mashed_, _Duchesse_, &c. They may also be fried; but, in that case, they should be served the moment they are ready, for they soften very quickly. Finally, they may be prepared soufflé-fashion, after the directions given under “Soufflé de Pommes de Terre.” 2188—PEAS (Petits Pois) Whatever be the treatment to which peas are to be subjected, always take them very green and freshly gathered, and shell them only at the last minute. Peas are one of the vegetables most prone to lose their quality through want of care. If prepared with pains, the delicacy of their flavour is incomparable; but the slightest neglect on the part of the operator renders them savourless and commonplace. 2189—PETITS POIS A L’ANGLAISE Cook them quickly in salted boiling water; drain them, and dry them by tossing them over a fierce fire. Dish them in a timbale, and serve some pats of very fresh butter separately. 2190—PETITS POIS AU BEURRE As soon as the peas are cooked, drain them and toss them over a fierce fire, to dry. Then season them with a pinch of powdered sugar, and cohere them, away from the fire, with butter, in the proportion of three oz. per pint of peas. 2191—PETITS POIS A LA BONNE-FEMME Fry twelve oz. of small onions and four oz. of breast of bacon, cut into dice and _blanched_ in butter; add one-half oz. of flour to the latter; cook the roux for a moment; moisten with one-half pint of consommé and boil. Put one quart of freshly-shelled peas into this sauce; add the onions and the bacon, together with a bunch of parsley; and cook, reducing the sauce to half in so doing. 2192—PETITS POIS A LA FLAMANDE Prepare one-half lb. of new carrots as though they were to be glazed. When half-cooked, add two-thirds pint of freshly-shelled peas to them. Complete the cooking of the two vegetables together, and, at the last moment, add butter away from the fire. 2193—PETITS POIS A LA FRANÇAISE Take a saucepan, of a size a little larger than would be necessary to just hold the following products, and put into it one quart of freshly-shelled peas; a faggot containing the heart of a lettuce, two sprays of parsley, and two of chervil; twelve small onions, four oz. of butter, one-third oz. of salt, and two-thirds oz. of loaf-sugar. Mix the whole together until it forms a compact mass, and place in the cool until ready for cooking. Add three tablespoonfuls of water, when about to cook the peas, and cook gently with lid on. When about to serve, withdraw the faggot; _cisel_ the lettuce; add it to the peas, and cohere the whole with butter, away from the fire. N.B.—Raw, _ciseled_ lettuce may be added to the peas; but, as various tastes must be allowed for, it is better to insert the lettuce whole, and to mix it with the peas afterwards, if it be so desired. The lettuce may also be quartered and laid on the peas without being mixed with them. 2194—PETITS POIS A LA MENTHE Cook the peas in salted water, together with a bunch of fresh mint. Then prepare them in the English way or “au Beurre,” and lay a few parboiled mint leaves upon them when serving. 2195—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, dite SAINT-GERMAIN Cook the peas with just enough boiling water to cover them, and season it with one-half oz. of salt, and one-sixth oz. of sugar per quart. Add a lettuce and a few parsley leaves (tied together). When the peas are cooked, drain them; and reduce their cooking-liquor while they are being rubbed through a sieve. Work the purée with four oz. of fresh butter per quart, and finally add to it the cooking-liquor, reduced almost to a glaze. 2196—MOULDED PEASE PURÉE FOR GARNISH Prepare the purée as above; but keep it a little creamier. Mix with it, per quart, two whole eggs and the yolks of three, beaten and strained through muslin. With this preparation, fill some _dariole_- or _baba_-moulds, according to the piece for which the timbales are intended, and poach them in a _bain-marie_ for from twenty to twenty-five minutes. Remember to let them stand for five minutes before unmoulding them. N.B.—Timbales of haricot-beans, flageolets, or lentil purée, are prepared similarly. 2197—CAPSICUM OR PIMENTOS (Poivrons doux) The capsicums used in cookery are of various kinds: the Chilian and Cayenne kinds (Chili and Cayenne peppers) which have a strong, burning taste, are only used as condiments. The large or mild capsicums, green, red, or yellow, are used more particularly as garnishes. Although the difference in their colouration is accompanied by a difference of quality, they are not easily distinguished in this respect; and, although the large, red Spanish capsicums are the best, the other varieties may be treated in the same way as the former. Whatever be the kind of capsicums used, either grill or scald them in order to skin them, and clear them of their seeds. According to the purpose they are intended for, they are either cut up or left whole. 2198—PIMENTOS FARCIS For this purpose take some small, green, carrot-shaped capsicums. Remove their stems, after having skinned them; empty them, and half-fill them with half-cooked, pilaff rice. Then set them in a sautépan, and carefully braise them with excellent stock. 2199—CAPSICUMS FOR GARNISHING For this purpose, the large red, Spanish capsicums are best. Braise them when they are peeled, and, when cooked, cut them up as the requirements may suggest. 2200—PURÉE DE PIMENTOS Braise some large, red capsicums, with two-thirds of their weight of rice. When the whole is well cooked, rub it through a sieve, and add butter to the extent of two oz. per quart of the preparation. N.B.—This purée is particularly well suited to poached fowls and white meats, and it is well to keep it thin. 2201—POTATOES (Pommes de Terre) Ordinary potatoes are rarely of good quality in England, and they do not lend themselves as well as certain Continental varieties do to the various culinary uses to which this valuable tuber may be put. The very best kinds of potato are almost unknown in England, and the Dutch and Vitelotte potatoes have to be imported. 2202—POMMES DE TERRE A L’ANGLAISE Turn the potatoes to the shape of large garlic cloves, and cook them in salted water or steam. They accompany more especially boiled fish. The English method is to cook them without salt. 2203—POMMES DE TERRE ANNA Cut them to the shape of cylinders; slice these into thin roundels; wash them, and dry them in a piece of linen. Set these roundels in circles on the bottom of the mould proper to this potato preparation, or in a well-buttered thick-bottomed sautépan; let them overlap one another, and let the lay of each circle be reversed. Season; spread a coat of butter upon the first layer, and proceed in the same way with a second layer. Make five or six layers in this way, seasoning and spreading butter over each. Cover the utensil; cook in a good oven for thirty minutes; turn the whole over, if necessary, to equalise the colouring; turn out upon a saucepan-lid, to drain away the butter, and then tilt the whole on to a dish. 2204—POMMES ANNA FOR GARNISHING Either _dariole_- or _baba_-moulds may be used for this purpose; but they should be tinned copper ones if possible. After having thoroughly buttered them, garnish them with thin roundels of potato, cut to the diameter of the moulds, seasoned, and set one upon the other. Set the moulds on a tray containing enough very hot fat to reach half-way up to their brims, and cook in a very hot oven for twenty-five minutes. Turn out just before serving. 2205—POMMES DE TERRE BERNY Add chopped truffles to some “Croquette” paste (No. 219), in the proportion of two oz. of the former to one lb. of the latter; and divide up this preparation into two-oz. portions. Mould these to shapes resembling apricots; dip them in beaten eggs (No. 174), and roll them in almonds cut into the thinnest possible splinters. Plunge the potato balls into hot fat five or six minutes before serving. 2206—POMMES DE TERRE A LA BOULANGÈRE This preparation has been given in various recipes (see No. 1307). 2207—POMMES DE TERRE BYRON Prepare the required amount of “Pommes Macaire” (No. 2228), and cook in butter in a small frying-pan. Dish; sprinkle copiously with cream and grated cheese, and set to glaze quickly. 2208—POMMES DE TERRE CHÂTEAU Turn them to the shape of large olives; season them; cook them gently in clarified butter, that they may be golden and very soft; and, just before serving, sprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley. 2209—POMMES DE TERRE A LA CRÈME Vitelotte or new kidney potatoes are needed for this preparation. Cook them in salted water; peel them as soon as this is done, and cut them into rather thick roundels. Put them in a sautépan; moisten, enough to cover them, with boiling cream; season, and reduce the cream. At the last moment, finish with raw cream. 2210—CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE Prepare the necessary quantity of “Croquette” paste (No. 219), and divide it into two-oz. portions. Roll these to the shape of corks or pears; treat them _à l’anglaise_, and put them into very hot fat, five or six minutes before serving. 2211—CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINE Take the required amount of “Pommes Dauphine” preparation (No. 220); divide it into two-oz. portions; mould these to the shape of corks; treat them _à l’anglaise_, and fry them like ordinary _croquettes_. 2212—POMMES DE TERRE A LA DUCHESSE Use the same preparation as for No. 2210. Mould the portions to the shape of small cottage-brioches, _galettes_ or small loaves, or shape them by means of the piping-bag. Arrange them on a buttered tray; _gild_ them with beaten egg, and colour them in a fierce oven for seven or eight minutes before serving them. 2213—POMMES DE TERRE DUCHESSE AU CHESTER Use the same preparation as for No. 2210, and combine it with two oz. of grated Chester per lb. Mould it to the shape of very small _galettes_; set these portions on a buttered tray; _gild_ them with beaten eggs; cover each with a thin slice of Chester, and set them in the oven for seven or eight minutes before serving. 2214—POMMES DE TERRE FONDANTES Cut the potatoes to the shape of large, elongated olives, and let each weigh about three oz. Gently cook them in butter, in a sautépan, and take care to turn them over. When they are cooked, withdraw them, so as to slightly flatten them with a fork without breaking them. Drain away their butter; return them to the sautépan with three oz. of fresh butter per every two lbs. of their weight, and cook them with lid on until they have entirely absorbed the butter. 2215—POMMES DE TERRE EN ALLUMETTES Trim the potatoes square, and then cut them into small rods, of one-fifth in. sides. Put them in hot fat, and let them dry well before draining them. 2216—POMMES DE TERRE CHATOUILLARD Trim the potatoes, and cut them into long even ribbons one-eighth in. thick. Treat these ribbons like “Pommes soufflées” (see No. 2221). 2217—CHIPPED POTATOES Cut the potatoes into thin roundels, by means of a special plane; put them into cold water for ten minutes; drain them; dry them in linen, and fry them, keeping them very crisp. Serve them cold or hot, with game roasted in the English way. 2218—POMMES DE TERRE COLLERETTE Turn the potatoes to the shape of corks, and cut them with a special knife which grooves them. Treat them like chipped potatoes. 2219—POMMES DE TERRE PAILLES Cut the potatoes into a long, thin _julienne_; wash them and thoroughly dry them on a piece of linen. Put them into hot fat; and, at the end of a few minutes, drain them in a frying-basket. Just before serving them, plunge them afresh into smoking fat, that they may be very crisp; drain them on a piece of linen, and salt them moderately. 2220—POMMES DE TERRE PONT-NEUF Trim the potatoes square, and cut them into rods of half-inch sides. Plunge them into hot fat, and leave them there until they are crisp outside and creamy in. This preparation represents the generic type of fried potatoes. 2221—POMMES DE TERRE SOUFFLÉES Trim the potatoes square, and carefully cut them into slices one-eighth inch thick. Wash them in cold water; thoroughly dry them, and put them into moderately hot fat. As soon as the potatoes are in it, gradually heat the fat until they are cooked—which they are known to be when they rise to the surface of the frying fat. Drain them in the frying-basket, and at once immerse them in fresh and hotter fat. This final immersion effects the puffing, which results from the sudden contact with intense heat. Leave the potatoes to dry; drain them on a stretched piece of linen; salt them moderately, and dish them. 2222—GRATIN DE POMMES DE TERRE A LA DAUPHINOISE Finely slice two lbs. of fair-sized Dutch potatoes. Put them in a basin, and add thereto salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, one beaten egg, one and one-half pints of boiled milk, and four oz. of fresh, grated Gruyère. Thoroughly mix up the whole. Pour this preparation into earthenware dishes, rubbed with garlic and well buttered; copiously sprinkle with grated Gruyère; add a few pieces of butter, and cook in a moderate oven for from forty to forty-five minutes. 2223—POMMES DE TERRE A LA HONGROISE Fry four oz. of chopped onion in butter, together with a coffeespoonful of paprika. Add two peeled, pressed, and sliced tomatoes; two lbs. of potatoes, cut into somewhat thick roundels, and moisten, just enough to cover, with consommé. Cook, while almost entirely reducing the moistening, and sprinkle with chopped parsley at the last moment. 2224—POMMES DE TERRE GRATINÉES This preparation may be made in two ways as follows:— (1) Make a smooth potato purée; this done, put it into a deep, buttered _gratin_-dish; smooth its surface; sprinkle the latter with grated cheese mixed with fine raspings; bedew with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven. (2) Bake some fine, well-washed, Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon as they are cooked, open them lengthwise; withdraw their pulp; rub the latter through a sieve while it is still quite hot, and finish it after the manner of an ordinary purée. Fill the half-shells with purée; sprinkle the latter with grated cheese and raspings; lay the half-shells on a tray, and set the _gratin_ to form as above. On taking the potatoes out of the oven, dish them on a napkin, and serve them immediately. 2225—POMMES DE TERRE AU LARD Frizzle in butter one-half lb. of breast of salted pork, cut into dice and _blanched_, and twelve small onions. Drain the bacon and the onions; mix one oz. of flour with the butter; brown for a few minutes, and moisten with one and one-quarter pints of consommé. Season with a pinch of pepper, and add two lbs. of medium-sized, quartered and well-trimmed potatoes, the bacon and the onions, and a faggot. Cover and cook gently. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle moderately with chopped parsley. 2226—POMMES DE TERRE LORETTE Add some grated cheese to the preparation for “Pommes Dauphine,” in the proportion of one oz. of the former per lb. of the latter. Divide up this mixture into one and one-half oz. portions; mould these to the shape of crescents, and dredge them moderately. Plunge these crescents into very hot fat about six minutes before serving. 2227—POMMES DE TERRE A LA LYONNAISE Cut some peeled and plain-boiled potatoes into roundels, and toss these in butter in a frying-pan. Likewise toss some sliced onions in butter, the quantity of the former measuring one-fourth of that of the potatoes. When the onions are of a nice golden colour, add them to the _sautéd_ potatoes; season with salt and pepper; _sauté_ the two products together for a few minutes, that they may mix thoroughly, and dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley. 2228—POMMES DE TERRE MACAIRE Bake some Dutch potatoes in the oven. As soon as they are done, empty them and collect their pulp on a dish; season it with salt and pepper, and work it with a fork; adding to it, the while, one and one-half oz. of butter per lb. Spread this preparation in the form of a _galette_ on the bottom of an omelet-pan containing some very hot, clarified butter, and brown it well on both sides. 2229—POMMES DE TERRE MAIRE Prepare these exactly like “Pommes à la Crème.” 2230—POMMES DE TERRE A LA MAÎTRE-D’HÔTEL Cook some medium-sized Dutch potatoes in salted water; peel them; cut them into roundels while they are still quite hot, and cover them with boiling milk. Season them with salt and white pepper; completely reduce the milk, and dish them in a timbale with chopped parsley. 2231—POMMES DE TERRE MARQUISE Mix some very reduced and very red tomato purée with the preparation for “Pommes Duchesse,” in the proportion of three tablespoonfuls of the former per lb. of the latter. Set this preparation on buttered trays (by means of a piping-bag fitted with a large, grooved pipe) in shapes resembling half-eggs. _Gild_ them slightly with beaten eggs, and set them in a somewhat hot oven seven or eight minutes before serving. 2232—POMMES DE TERRE A LA MENTHE Cook some fair-sized new potatoes in the English way, and add a bunch of mint to them. Dish them in a timbale, and set a mint-leaf (from the bunch) upon each potato. 2233—POMMES DE TERRE MIREILLE Cut some medium-sized, raw potatoes into roundels. Season them and _sauté_ them in butter. When they are ready, add to them, per lb., four oz. of sliced artichoke-bottoms, tossed in butter, and one and one-half oz. of truffle slices. _Sauté_ the whole so as to ensure a complete mixture, and dish in a timbale. 2234—POMMES DE TERRE MIRETTE Cut some raw potatoes into a _julienne_ one-eighth inch wide, and cook them in butter, keeping them very creamy. Add to them, per lb., two oz. of a _julienne_ of truffles and three tablespoonfuls of melted meat glaze. Mix; dish in a timbale; sprinkle with grated Parmesan and melted butter, and set to glaze quickly. 2235—POMMES DE TERRE MOUSSELINE Prepare a flawn-crust, baked without colouration. Meanwhile, bake a few Dutch potatoes in the oven; withdraw their pulp; season it with salt and white pepper, and work it over the fire with four oz. of butter and the yolks of two eggs per lb. of its weight. Add one-sixth pint of whisked cream, and set the preparation in the crust, shaping it like a dome. Decorate by means of a piping-bag, fitted with a grooved pipe, with some of the preparation which should have been put aside; sprinkle with melted butter, and set to glaze quickly. 2236—POMMES DE TERRE NOISETTES Cut the potatoes, by means of a round spoon-cutter, into pieces the size of hazel-nuts. Season and cook them in butter, and take care to keep them nicely golden and creamy. 2237—POMMES DE TERRE PARISIENNE Prepare some “Pommes Noisettes” as above; but cut them a little smaller. When they are cooked, roll them in melted meat glaze, and sprinkle them with chopped parsley. 2238—POMMES DE TERRE PARMESANE Proceed as directed under “Pommes au Chester” (No. 2213), but substitute Parmesan for the latter. 2239—POMMES DE TERRE PERSILLEES Cook the potatoes in the English way, that is to say, boil them plainly; drain them well, and roll them in melted butter and chopped parsley. 2240—POMMES DE TERRE ROBERT Prepare a composition of “Pomme Macaire,” and add thereto, per lb., three eggs and a large pinch of chopped chives. Cook in the frying-pan as for “Pomme Macaire.” 2241—POMMES DE TERRE A LA ROXELANE Bake six fine Dutch potatoes in the oven. Withdraw the pulp from their insides, and work it, together with one-third lb. of butter and four egg-yolks, and enough fresh cream to thin it. Complete with the whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Set this preparation in small timbales, made from brioches the knobs of which have been removed, and the under halves of which have been emptied of all crumb. Sprinkle with chopped truffle, and bake in a mild oven as for a _soufflé_. 2242—POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAVOYARDE Proceed as for No. 2222; but replace the milk by some consommé. 2243—POMMES DE TERRE A LA SAINT-FLORENTIN Prepare some “Pommes Croquettes” paste (No. 219). Combine therewith (per lb.) two oz. of chopped, lean ham. Roll the portions into the shape of corks; dip them in beaten eggs, and roll them in vermicelli. This done, flatten so as to give them a rectangular shape, and fry them in very hot fat. 2244—POMMES DE TERRE SCHNEIDER Proceed as directed under No. 2230; but for the milk substitute some consommé. Reduce in the same way, and finish with butter, melted meat glaze, and chopped parsley. 2245—POMMES DE TERRE SUZETTE Peel some fine, Dutch potatoes, and turn them to the shape of eggs. Cut them flat at one end that they may stand upright, and bake them on a tray in the oven. Open them like a boiled egg; put aside the pieces thus cut off, and withdraw the pulp from their insides. Season this pulp, and work it; adding to it the while, per lb., two oz. of butter, two egg-yolks, a few tablespoonfuls of thick cream, and a little _salpicon_ of the white of a chicken, tongue, truffles, and mushrooms. Fill the potato-shells with this preparation; readjust the covers, and set them in the oven for ten minutes. On withdrawing them from the oven, set the potatoes on a dish, and glaze them with melted butter. 2246—POMMES DE TERRE VOISIN Prepare these exactly like “Pommes Anna,” but sprinkle each layer of potato-roundels with grated cheese. The cooking is the same. 2247—POMMES NANA (For Garnishing) Cut the potatoes into a _julienne_; season them, and mould them by heaping them into well-buttered, _dariole_-moulds. Cook them, like “Pommes Anna” (for garnishing), on a tray containing some very hot fat. On taking them out of the oven, turn them out and sprinkle them with Château sauce. 2248—MASHED POTATOES Peel and quarter some Dutch potatoes, and quickly cook them in salted water. When they feel soft to the touch, drain them; rub them through a sieve, and work the purée vigorously with three oz. of butter per lb. of potatoes. Then add, little by little, about one-half pint of boiling milk, in order to bring the purée to the required consistence. Heat without boiling, and serve. Remember that mashed potatoes should be only just cooked, and that if they be allowed to wait they lose all their quality. 2249—QUENELLES DE POMMES DE TERRE Prepare a composition as for “Pommes Duchesse,” and add thereto (per two lbs.) three whole eggs and one-third lb. of flour. Divide up the preparation into one and one-half oz. portions; mould these to the shape of corks or quoits, or mould them by means of a spoon, and set them in a buttered sautépan. Poach them in salted water; drain them; set them on a buttered dish sprinkled with grated cheese; dredge with grated cheese; sprinkle with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form. On taking the dish out of the oven, sprinkle the quenelles with nut-brown butter. 2250—SOUFFLÉ DE POMMES DE TERRE Prepare a pint of mashed potatoes with cream; add thereto the raw yolks of three eggs and their whites beaten to a stiff froth. Set in a buttered _soufflé_ saucepan, or in small porcelain cases, and cook like an ordinary _soufflé_. =Rice (Riz)= 2251—RIZ AU BLANC (For Fowls and Eggs) Wash one-half lb. of Carolina rice; put it into a saucepan; cover it with plenty of cold water; salt it, and parboil it for one-quarter hour. This done, drain it and put it into a sautépan with two and one-half oz. of butter cut into small pieces. Mix with a fork; cover, and place in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes. 2252—RIZ AU GRAS Parboil one-half lb. of Carolina rice; drain it; fry it in butter, and moisten it with twice as much white and rather fat consommé as would be needed just to cover it. Set to boil, and then cook it gently in the oven for fifteen minutes. 2253—RIZ A LA GRECQUE Prepare some “Pilaff” rice. Add to it, per lb. of its weight one half-onion, chopped and fried in butter, together with two oz. of fat sausage-meat, divided into small portions, and two oz. of _ciseled_ lettuce; cook the whole, and complete with one-quarter pint of peas, cooked “à la Française,” and one and one-half oz. of red capsicums cut into dice. This garnish is mixed with the rice seven or eight minutes before serving. 2254—RIZ A L’INDIENNE Parboil one-half lb. of Patna rice in salted water, for fifteen minutes; stirring it from time to time the while. Drain it; wash it in several cold waters; lay it on a napkin, and set the latter on a tray or on a sieve. Dry for fifteen minutes in a steamer or in a very moderate oven. 2255—RIZ PILAFF Fry one chopped half-onion and one-half lb. of Carolina rice in two oz. of butter. Stir over the fire, until the rice is well affected all over; moisten with one quart of white consommé; cover, and cook in a moderate oven for eighteen minutes. Transfer it to another saucepan as soon as it is cooked. 2256—PILAFF RICE (For the Stuffing of Fowls) Pilaff rice is frequently used in stuffing fowls. For this purpose, when it is cooked, it is combined (per quart) with a little cream, four oz. of foie-gras dice, and as much truffle, also in dice. The rice should only be three-parts cooked for stuffings; for it completes its cooking inside the bird. For this reason the cream is added, that the rice may absorb it while its cooking is being completed. 2257—RIZ PILAFF A LA TURQUE Prepare some pilaff rice as directed under No. 2255, and, while it is cooking, add to it enough saffron to make it of a nice, golden colour. When cooked, add four oz. of peeled and _concassed_ tomatoes to it. 2258—RIZOTTO A LA PIÉMONTAISE Fry a medium-sized onion in butter, and add to it one-half lb. of Piedmont rice. Put the rice on the side of the stove; add some saffron to it and stir it until it is well saturated with butter. Moisten the rice with about one quart of consommé per lb. The consommé should be added to the rice in seven or eight instalments, and as fast as it becomes absorbed, a fresh supply should be forthcoming. When adding the liquor, stir the rice with a wooden spoon. Cook the rice under cover, and, to the resulting preparation, which should thus be creamy, add a few pieces of fresh butter and some grated Parmesan. The dish may be finished, either with shavings of white truffles or ham cut into dice. 2259—SALSIFY or OYSTER PLANT (Salsifis) There are two kinds of salsify:—the white and the black, which is also called “viper’s grass.” After having carefully scraped and washed it, cook it in a _blanc_. The same preparations suit the two kinds. 2260—FRIED SALSIFY After having thoroughly drained it, cut it into three and one-half lengths, and put these on a dish. Season with salt and pepper; add lemon juice, a few drops of oil, some chopped parsley, and leave to _marinade_ for from twenty-five to thirty minutes, taking care to toss the salsify from time to time. This done, drain the lengths of salsify, dip them in some thin batter; plunge them in very hot fat, and drain them when the batter is quite dry. Dish them on a napkin with fried parsley. N.B.—It is not absolutely necessary to _marinade_ salsify; the question is one of taste. 2261—SALSIFIS SAUTÉ Cut it into two-inch lengths; dry them very well, and toss these in butter in an omelet-pan, until they are of a nice golden colour. Season, and dish in a timbale with fried parsley. 2262—SALSIFIS A LA CRÈME Proceed as directed in the case of other vegetables prepared in this way. =Tomatoes= 2263—GRILLED TOMATOES Take some whole tomatoes, if possible; oil them copiously, and grill them gently. 2264—TOMATES FARCIES If the tomatoes to be stuffed be large, cut them in two laterally; if they be medium-sized or small, a lateral slice cut from their stem-ends is sufficient. In any case, press them slightly in order to exude their juice and seeds; season them inside with salt and pepper; set them on an oiled tray, and half-cook them in the oven. Finally, stuff them as their designation on the menu requires. 2265—TOMATES FARCIES AU GRATIN Having prepared the tomatoes as above, stuff them with somewhat stiff Duxelles; sprinkle with raspings and a few drops of oil, and set the _gratin_ to form in a hot oven. On taking the dish out of the oven, surround the tomatoes with a thread of clear _tomatéd_ half-glaze sauce. 2266—TOMATES FARCIES A LA PROVENÇALE Prepare the tomatoes as follows:—Cut them in two; remove their seeds; season them, and place them, cut side undermost, in an omelet-pan containing very hot oil. Turn them over when they are half-cooked; cook them for a little while longer; lay them on a _gratin_-dish, and stuff them with the following preparation:—For six tomatoes, fry two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion in oil; add four peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, a pinch of chopped parsley, and a crushed clove of garlic, and cook under cover for twelve minutes. Complete with four tablespoonfuls of bread-crumbs, soaked in consommé and rubbed through a sieve; two anchovies also rubbed through a sieve, and finish with some somewhat fat, braised-beef gravy. When the tomatoes are stuffed, sprinkle them with bread-crumbs combined with grated cheese; sprinkle with oil, and set the _gratin_ to form. These tomatoes may be served either hot or cold. 2267—TOMATES FARCIES A LA PORTUGAISE Stuff the tomatoes with pilaff rice combined with a quarter of its volume of _concassed_ tomatoes. Dish this rice in the shape of a regular dome, and sprinkle it with chopped parsley. N.B.—In addition to the above recipes, tomatoes prepared as already directed may also be garnished with minced chicken or lamb meat, or with scrambled eggs, sprinkled with grated Parmesan, and then set to glaze at the salamander. 2268—TOMATES SAUTÉES A LA PROVENÇALE Having halved, pressed, and seasoned the tomatoes, put them, cut side undermost, in an omelet-pan containing very hot oil. Turn them over when they are half-cooked, and sprinkle them with a little chopped parsley, together with a mite of garlic, and some bread-crumbs. Place them in a moderate oven in order to finish their cooking, and dish the tomatoes the moment they are withdrawn from the oven. 2269—PURÉE DE TOMATES See Tomato Sauce (No. 29). 2270—SOUFFLÉ DE TOMATES A LA NAPOLITAINE Prepare one-half pint of very reduced tomato purée, and combine therewith two oz. of grated Parmesan, two tablespoonfuls of very stiff Béchamel sauce, and the yolks of three eggs. Add the three whites, beaten to a stiff froth, and spread the preparation in layers in a buttered, _soufflé_ timbale; setting upon each layer a litter of freshly-cooked macaroni, cohered with butter and grated Parmesan. Cook like an ordinary _soufflé_. =Jerusalem Artichokes (Topinambours)= 2271—TOPINAMBOURS A L’ANGLAISE Cut the Jerusalem artichokes to the shape of large olives, and gently cook them in butter, without colouration. Season them, and cohere them with a little thin Béchamel sauce. 2272—TOPINAMBOURS FRITS Peel and cut the Jerusalem artichokes into thick slices. Cook these in butter; dip them in batter, and fry them at the last moment. 2273—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOURS Peel, slice, and cook the Jerusalem artichokes in butter. Rub them through a sieve, and work the purée over the fire, with two oz. of butter per lb. Add enough mashed potatoes to thicken the preparation, and complete with a few tablespoonfuls of boiling milk. 2274—SOUFFLÉ DE TOPINAMBOURS Proceed as for No. 2250. =Truffles (Truffes)= Truffles are used especially as a garnish; but they may also be served as a vegetable or a hors-d’œuvre. When so served, they should be prepared very simply; for they require no refining treatment to make them perfect. 2275—TRUFFES SOUS LA CENDRE Take some large truffles, and clean them well. Season them with salt and pepper and a few drops of liqueur brandy; completely enclose them in a layer of patty paste, and bake them in the oven from twenty-five to thirty minutes. Serve them in their case of paste. 2276—TRUFFES AU CHAMPAGNE Take some fine, well-cleaned truffles; season them, and cook them, with lid on, in champagne. This done, set them in a timbale, or in small silver saucepans. Almost completely reduce the champagne; add thereto a little thin, strong, veal stock; strain the whole through muslin; pour it over the truffles, and place these on the side of the stove for ten minutes without allowing the stock to boil. 2277—TRUFFES A LA CRÈME Cut one lb. of raw, peeled truffles into thick slices. Season them with salt and pepper, and cook them very gently in two oz. of butter and a few drops of burnt liqueur brandy. Reduce to a stiff consistence one-half pint of cream with three tablespoonfuls of Béchamel sauce; add some truffle cooking-liquor and the necessary quantity of cream; complete with two oz. of best butter; mix the truffles with this sauce, and serve in a vol-au-vent crust. 2278—TRUFFES A LA SERVIETTE Under this head are served “Truffes au Champagne,” the recipe for which is given above, but the champagne should be replaced by Madeira. Dish them in a timbale, set in a napkin folded to represent an artichoke. But it would be very much more reasonable to serve “Truffes à la cendre” under this head, serving them under a folded napkin, as for “Pommes de terre en robe de chambre” (potatoes in their skins). 2279—TIMBALE DE TRUFFES Line a buttered timbale mould with ordinary patty paste. Garnish its bottom and sides with slices of bacon, and fill up the mould with raw, peeled truffles, seasoned with salt and pepper. Add a glassful of Madeira, two tablespoonfuls of pale chicken or veal glaze; cover with a slice of bacon, and close up the timbale, in the usual way, with a layer of paste. _Gild_ with beaten eggs, and bake in a hot oven for fifty minutes. When about to serve, turn out and dish on a napkin. =Farinaceous Products= 2280—GNOCHI AU GRATIN Prepare a “pâte à choux” after recipe No. 2374, from the following ingredients:—one pint of milk, a pinch of salt, and a little nutmeg, four oz. of butter, two-thirds lb. of flour, and six eggs. When the paste is ready, combine with it four oz. of grated Parmesan. Divide this paste into portions the size of walnuts; drop them into boiling, salted water, and poach them. As soon as the gnochi rise to the surface of the water, and seem resilient to the touch, drain them on a piece of linen. Coat the bottom of a _gratin_-dish with Mornay sauce; set the gnochi upon the latter; cover them with the same sauce; sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a moderate oven for from fifteen to twenty minutes. 2281—GNOCHI A LA ROMAINE Scatter two-thirds lb. of semolina over a quart of boiling milk. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and cook gently for twenty minutes. Take the utensil off the fire; thicken the semolina with the yolks of two eggs, and spread it on a moistened tray, in a layer one-half in. thick. When it is quite cold stamp it out with a round cutter, two in. in diameter. Set the gnochi in shallow, buttered timbales; sprinkle with grated Gruyère and Parmesan, and with a little melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form. 2282—GNOCHI DE POMMES DE TERRE Cook two lbs. of potatoes in the English way. Drain them as soon as they are cooked, and work the purée, while it is very hot, with one and one-half oz. of butter, two small eggs, two egg-yolks, one-third lb. of flour, salt, pepper, and nutmeg. Divide up this preparation into portions the size of walnuts; roll them into balls; press upon them lightly with a fork to give them a criss-cross pattern, and poach them in boiling water. Drain them on a piece of linen; dish them in layers, sprinkling some grated cheese between each layer; sprinkle some grated cheese over the top surface; bedew liberally with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a hot oven. 2283—NOQUES AU PARMESAN Put into a previously-heated basin one-half lb. of _manied_ butter, and work the latter with salt, pepper, and nutmeg; adding to it, little by little, two eggs and two well-beaten egg-yolks, five oz. of flour, and the white of an egg, also beaten to a stiff froth. Divide up the preparation into portions the size of hazel-nuts; drop these portions into a sautépan of boiling, salted water, and let them poach. Drain the noques on a piece of linen; dish them in a timbale; sprinkle them copiously with grated cheese and with nut-brown butter. 2284—MACARONI Under this head are included all tubular pastes from Spaghetti, the size of which is not larger than thick vermicelli, to canneloni, the bore of which is one-half in. in diameter. All these pastes are cooked in boiling water, salted to the extent of one-third oz. per quart. Macaroni, like other pastes of a similar nature, should not be cooled. The most one can do, if the cooking has to be stopped at a given moment, is to pour a little cold water into the saucepan and then to take it off the fire. 2285—MACARONI A L’ITALIENNE Cook the macaroni in boiling water; completely drain it; put it into a sautépan, and toss it over the fire to dry. Season it with salt, pepper and nutmeg; cohere it with five oz. of grated Gruyère and Parmesan, in equal quantities, and two oz. of butter, cut into small pieces, per lb. of macaroni. _Sauté_ the whole well to ensure the leason, and dish in a timbale. 2286—MACARONI AU GRATIN Prepare the macaroni after No. 2285, adding to it a little Béchamel sauce; and set it on a buttered _gratin_-dish, besprinkled with grated cheese. Sprinkle the surface of the preparation with grated cheese and raspings, mixed, and with melted butter, and set the _gratin_ to form in a fierce oven. 2287—MACARONI AU JUS Parboil the macaroni in salted water, keeping it somewhat firm: drain it, cut it into short lengths, and simmer it in beef braising-liquor, until the macaroni has almost entirely absorbed the latter. Dish in a timbale, and sprinkle with a few tablespoonfuls of the same liquor. 2288—MACARONI A LA NANTUA Having cooked, drained and dried the macaroni, cohere it with crayfish cream, and mix therewith twenty-four crayfishes’ tails per lb. of macaroni. Dish in a timbale, and cover the macaroni with a _julienne_ of very black truffles. 2289—MACARONI A LA NAPOLITAINE Prepare a beef estouffade with red wine and tomatoes; cook it for from ten to twelve hours, that it may be reduced to a purée. Rub this estouffade through a sieve and put it aside. Parboil some thick macaroni, keeping it somewhat firm; drain it; cut it into short lengths, and cohere it with butter. Sprinkle the bottom of a timbale with grated cheese; cover with a layer of estouffade purée; spread a layer of macaroni upon the latter, and proceed in the same order until the timbale is full. Serve the preparation as it stands. 2290—MACARONI AUX TRUFFES BLANCHES Prepare the macaroni as directed under No. 2285, and add to it six oz. of white Piedmont truffles (cut into thin shavings), per lb. of macaroni. Leave the preparation covered for five minutes and dish in a timbale. 2291—NOODLES (Nouilles) These are generally bought ready-made. If one wish to prepare them oneself, the constituents of the paste are:—one lb. of flour, one-half oz. of salt, three whole eggs, and five egg-yolks. Moisten as for an ordinary paste, roll it out twice on a board, and leave it to stand for one or two hours before cutting it up. All macaroni recipes may be applied to noodles. For “Nouilles à l’Alsacienne,” it is usual, when the preparation is ready in the timbale, to distribute over it a few raw noodles _sautéd_ in butter and kept very crisp. =Kache= Kache is not a vegetable; but since this preparation has appeared either as a constituent or an accompaniment of certain Russian dishes which occur in this work, I am obliged to refer to it. 2292—KACHE DE SEMOULE POUR COULIBIAC Take some coarse, yellow semolina, and scatter it over three times its bulk of boiling consommé. Cook it gently for twenty-five minutes; drain it on a sieve; spread it on a tray, and place it in a moderate oven to dry. This done, rub it lightly through a coarse sieve with the view of separating the grains, and put it aside in the dry until wanted. 2293—KACHE DE SARRASIN POUR POTAGES Moisten one lb. of _concassed_ buckwheat with enough tepid water to make a stiff paste; add the necessary salt, and put this paste in a large Charlotte-mould. Bake in a hot oven for two hours. Then remove the thick crust which has formed upon the preparation, and transfer what remains, by means of a spoon, to a basin. Mix therewith two oz. of butter while it is still hot. Kache prepared in this way may be served in a special timbale. But it is more often spread in a thin layer on a buttered tray, and left to cool. It is then cut into roundels one in. in diameter, and these are rolled in flour and coloured on both sides in very hot, clarified butter. 2294—POLENTA In a quart of boiling water containing one-half oz. of salt, immerse two-thirds lb. of maize flour, stirring the while with a spoon, that the two may mix. Cook for twenty-five minutes; add two oz. of butter and two and one-half oz. of grated Parmesan. If the Polenta be prepared for a vegetable or a garnish, it is spread in a thin layer on a moistened tray. When cold, it is cut into roundels or lozenges, which are first browned in butter, dished, and then sprinkled with grated cheese and nut-brown butter. 2295—SOUFFLÉ PIÉMONTAIS Boil one pint of milk with one-fifth oz. of salt; sprinkle on it two oz. of maize flour; mix well; cover, and cook in a mild oven for twenty-five minutes. Then transfer the paste to another saucepan; work it with one and one-half oz. of butter and as much grated Parmesan; mix therewith one egg, two egg-yolks, and the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Dish in a buttered timbale; sprinkle with grated cheese, and cook like an ordinary _soufflé_. 2295a—SOUFFLÉ AU PARMESAN Mix one lb. of flour and two and one-half pints of milk in a saucepan. Add a little salt, pepper and nutmeg, and set the preparation to boil, stirring it constantly the while. As soon as the boil is reached, take the saucepan off the fire, and add one lb. of grated Parmesan, three oz. of butter, and ten egg-yolks. Rub the whole through tammy and then combine with it the whites of ten eggs whisked to a stiff froth. Mould in a silver timbale, lined with a band of buttered paper, and bake in the oven for from twenty to twenty-five minutes. 2296—RAVIOLI Whatever be their garnish, _ravioli_ are always prepared in the same way. The stuffings given below represent the most usual forms of garnish. STUFFING A Mix one-half lb. of finely-chopped, cooked chicken-meat; five oz. of cooked and crushed brains; three oz. of pressed white cheese; three oz. of chopped, pressed and _blanched_ spinach; three oz. of parboiled green borage; a pinch of green sweet basil; five oz. of grated Parmesan; two eggs; two egg-yolks; salt, pepper and nutmeg. STUFFING B Mix two-thirds lb. of well-cooked, cold and finely-chopped daube of beef; two-thirds lb. of parboiled, pressed, and chopped spinach; one oz. of chopped shallots; five oz. of a purée of cooked brain; two whole eggs, salt, pepper and nutmeg. STUFFING C Toss one-half lb. of chickens’ livers in butter; add to it two chopped shallots, a pinch of parsley, and a little crushed garlic. Finely pound the livers, and add successively one-half lb. of parboiled, cooled and fresh spinach; two anchovy fillets; three oz. of butter; three eggs, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a pinch of sweet basil. Rub the whole through a sieve. 2297—THE PREPARATION OF RAVIOLI They may be made in various shapes as follows:— (1) Roll a piece of noodle paste to a thin layer and stamp it out with a grooved cutter, two and one-half in. in diameter. Moisten the edges of each roundel of paste; garnish the centre of each with a ball of one of the above stuffings, the size of a hazel-nut, and fold in slipper-form. (2) Roll the paste into a rectangle of four-in. sides; garnish with stuffing, leaving a gap between the portions of the latter; moisten the edges of the paste, and close up by drawing these together. Finally stamp out with a grooved, crescent-shaped fancy-cutter. (3) Prepare a square layer of paste; garnish it with lines consisting of portions of paste; leave a space of two in. between the lines. Moisten; cover with a second layer of paste, of the same dimensions as the first, and divide up, by means of the roulette, into squares of two-in. sides. Whatever be the shape of the _ravioli_, plunge them into a saucepan of slightly salted boiling water; poach them for from eight to ten minutes, and drain them. Set them on a buttered _gratin_-dish, sprinkled with grated cheese; sprinkle them with good beef gravy; then again with grated cheese, and set the _gratin_ to form. Or, dish the _ravioli_ in layers, sprinkling each layer with grated cheese and gravy. Complete with some grated cheese, and set the _gratin_ to form in the usual way. N.B.—The _ravioli_ may also be served, merely sprinkled with grated cheese and nut-brown butter.