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A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

CHAPTER XXIII

1039 words  |  Chapter 26

FRUIT-STEWS AND JAMS 820 GLOSSARY _Abats_, stands for such butcher’s supplies as heads, hearts, livers, kidneys, feet, &c. _Aiguillettes_, see No. 1755. _Ailerons_, see No. 1583. _Amourettes_, see No. 1288. _Anglaise_, to treat à l’Anglaise, see No. 174. _Anglaise_, to cook à l’Anglaise, means to cook plainly in water. _Anglaise_, a preparation of beaten eggs, oil and seasoning. _Attereaux_, see No. 1219. _Baba-moulds_, a kind of small deep cylindrical mould, slightly wider at the top than at the bottom. _Bain-Marie_, a hot-water bath in which utensils containing various culinary preparations are immersed to keep warm, or for the purpose of poaching or cooking. _Barquettes_, see No. 314. _Biscottes_, a kind of rusks. _Blanch_, _Blanched_, see No. 273. _Brandade_, see No. 1027. _Brunoise-fashion_, see _Cut_ below. _Canapés_, see No. 316. _Caramel Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Casserole_ (_En_), see No. 250. _Cassolette_, a kind of hot hors-d’œuvre, moulded to the shape of a small drum. _Cèpes_, a kind of mushroom (Boletus edulis). _Chartreuse-fashion_, see No. 1220. _Chiffonade_, see No. 215. _Chinois_, a very small green candied orange. _Chipolata_, a kind of small sausages. _Choux_, a kind of cake made from Pâte à Choux, q.v. _Cisel_, _Ciseled_, to cut a vegetable after the manner of a chaff-cutting machine. _Clothe_, _Clothed_, _Clothing_ (of moulds), see No. 916. _Cocotte_ (_En_), see No. 250. _Concass_, _Concassed_, to chop roughly. _Contise_, to incise a piece of meat at stated intervals, and to insert slices of truffle, or other substance, into each incision. _Crépinettes_, see No. 1410. _Croustade_, see No. 2393. _Croûtons_, pieces of bread of various shapes and sizes, fried in butter. In the case of aspic jelly, croûtons stand for variously shaped pieces used in bordering dishes. _Cut_, Brunoise-fashion = to cut a product into small dice. _Cut_, Julienne-fashion = to cut a product into match-shaped rods. _Cut_, Paysanne-fashion = to cut a product into triangles. _Dariole-moulds_, small Baba-moulds, q.v. _Darne_, see No. 784. _Daubière_, an earthenware utensil used in the cooking of Daubes. _Écarlate_ (_A l’_), salted meat is said to be à l’écarlate when it is swathed in a coat of scarlet jelly. _Escarole_, Batavia chicory. _Feuilletés_, a kind of puffs made from puff-paste. _Flute_ (French, soup), a long crisp roll of bread. _Fondue_, (1) a cheese preparation; (2) a pulpy state to which such vegetables as tomatoes, sorrel, &c., are reduced by cooking. _Fumet_, a kind of essence extracted from fish, game, &c. _Galette_, a large quoit, made from puff-paste or short-paste, &c. _Gaufrette_, a special wafer. _Génoise_, see No. 2376. _Gild_, _Gilding_, _Gilded_ (1) to cover an object with beaten eggs, by means of a brush; (2) to give a golden sheen to objects by means of heat. _Gratin_, _Gratined_, see No. 268 to 272 inclusive. _Hatelet_, an ornamental skewer; the word sometimes stands for Attereaux. _Julienne_, Julienne-fashion, see _Cut_. _Langoustine_, a small variety of the Spiny Lobster. _Large-Ball Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Large-Crack Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Large-Thread Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Macédoine_, a mixture of early-season vegetables or fruit. _Madeleine-mould_, a mould in the shape of a narrow scallop-shell. _Manied_ (said of butter), see No. 151. _Marinade_, see No. 168. _Meringue_, see No. 2382. _Meringued_ = coated with meringue. _Mirepoix_, see No. 228. _Mise-en-place_, a general name given to those elementary preparations which are constantly resorted to during the various stages of most culinary operations. _Morue_, Newfoundland or Iceland salt-cod. _Mousses_, a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish, meat, poultry, game, etc., and sweets, moulded in large moulds in sufficient quantities for several people. _Mousselines_, same as above, but moulded in small quantities at a time, enough for one person. _Mousserons_, a kind of mushroom. _Nappe Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Orgeat_, a beverage made from syrup and almonds. _Oxalis_, a Mexican vegetable, allied to sorrel, of which the roots principally are eaten. _Paillettes au Parmesan_, see No. 2322. _Palmettes_, palm-shaped pieces of puff-paste, used in decorating. _Panés à l’Anglaise_, treated à l’Anglaise, see _Anglaise_. _Pannequets_, see No. 2403. _Papillote_, see No. 1259. _Pâte à Choux_, see No. 2373. _Paupiette_, a strip of chicken, of fish fillet, or other meat, garnished with forcemeat, rolled to resemble a scroll and cooked. _Paysanne-fashion_, see _Cut_. _Pluches_, the shreds of chervil, used for soups. _Poële_, _Poëling_, see No. 250. _Poêle_ (_A la_), see No. 395. _Pralin_, see No. 2352. _Pralined_, having been treated with Pralin, q.v. _Printanier_ (Eng. Vernal), a name given to a garnish of early-season vegetables, cut to various shapes. _Profiterolles_, see No. 218. _Râble_, the back of a hare. _Ravioli_, see No. 2296. _Ribbon Stage_, see No. 2376. _Rissole_, to fry brown. _Salpicon_, a compound of various products, cut into dice, and, generally, cohered with sauce or forcemeat. _Sauté_, _Sautéd_, a process of cooking described under No. 251. _Sauté_, a qualifying term applied to dishes treated in the way described under No. 251. _Savarin-mould_, an even, crown-shaped mould. _Small-Ball Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Small-Crack Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Small-Thread Stage_, see _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_, below. _Soufflé_, name given to a class of light, hot or cold preparations of fish, meat, poultry, game, etc., and sweets, to which the whites of eggs are usually added if the preparation is served hot, and to which whisked cream is added if the preparation is served cold. _Soup-Flute_, see _Flute_. _Stages in the Cooking of Sugar_:— Small-Thread } Large-Thread } Small-Ball } Large-Ball } See No. 2344. Small-Crack } Large-Crack } Caramel } Nappe, see No. 2955. _Subrics_, see No. 2137. _Suprême_, a name given to the fillet of the breast of a fowl. The term has been extended to certain of the best parts of fish, game, etc. _Terrine_, a patty. _Terrine à Pâté_, a special utensil in which patties are cooked. _Tomatéd._ Preparations are said to be tomatéd when they are mixed with enough tomato purée for the shade and flavour of the latter to be distinctly perceptible in them. _Vesiga_, the dried spine-marrow of the sturgeon. _Zest_, the outermost, coloured, glossy film of the rind of an orange or lemon.
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Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. PART I 3. CHAPTER I PAGE 4. CHAPTER II 5. CHAPTER III 6. CHAPTER IV 7. CHAPTER V 8. CHAPTER VI 9. CHAPTER VII 10. CHAPTER VIII 11. CHAPTER IX 12. CHAPTER X 13. PART II 14. CHAPTER XI PAGE 15. CHAPTER XII 16. CHAPTER XIII 17. CHAPTER XIV 18. CHAPTER XV 19. CHAPTER XVI 20. CHAPTER XVII 21. CHAPTER XVIII 22. CHAPTER XIX 23. CHAPTER XX 24. CHAPTER XXI 25. CHAPTER XXII 26. CHAPTER XXIII 27. PART I 28. CHAPTER I 29. 2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of 30. 5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements 31. 7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and 32. 8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking. 33. 6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c. 34. CHAPTER II 35. 2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By 36. CHAPTER III 37. 1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its 38. 2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through 39. 1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw 40. 2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a 41. 2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly. 42. 1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence 43. 2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, 44. 3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise 45. 2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, 46. 1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened 47. 2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this 48. 3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with 49. CHAPTER IV 50. 1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the 51. 2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over 52. 3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with 53. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the 54. CHAPTER V 55. 2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already 56. CHAPTER VI 57. 3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds 58. 1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish, 59. 2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an 60. 3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when 61. 4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the 62. 5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at 63. 6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the 64. CHAPTER VII 65. 2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with 66. 3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or 67. 4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey. 68. 2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such 69. 3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases 70. 1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way, 71. 2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to 72. 3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as 73. 4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always 74. 1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat 75. 2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all 76. 3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially 77. 4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is 78. CHAPTER VIII 79. CHAPTER IX 80. CHAPTER X 81. introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent, 82. 1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup, 83. 2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk 84. 4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or 85. 1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over 86. 2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should 87. 1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb 88. 2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry, 89. 1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be 90. 2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the 91. 3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used 92. 1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped 93. 2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute 94. 1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object, 95. 2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the 96. 3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook, 97. 3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality 98. PART II 99. CHAPTER XI 100. CHAPTER XII 101. CHAPTER XIII 102. 2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams. 103. 3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach 104. 4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy). 105. 2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of 106. 3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and 107. 1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very 108. 2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity 109. 2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet 110. 3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the 111. 4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish. 112. 2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be 113. 3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element, 114. CHAPTER XIV 115. 1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 116. 2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of 117. 3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 118. 4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 119. 5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil, 120. 6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 121. 7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with 122. 8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets, 123. 9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8. 124. 1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with 125. 2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp, 126. 2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole 127. 1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets 128. 1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from 129. 2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease) 130. CHAPTER XV 131. 2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and 132. 1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of 133. 2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil 134. 1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated 135. 3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces. 136. 2. VEAL. 137. CHAPTER XVI 138. 1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras 139. 10. The ortolans. 140. CHAPTER XVII 141. 1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of 142. 2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of 143. 3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg, 144. 4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage, 145. 5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot 146. CHAPTER XVIII 147. 2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the 148. 4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but 149. 2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state, 150. 3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the 151. 2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a 152. 3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the 153. 4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English 154. 5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly 155. 7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the 156. CHAPTER XIX 157. 1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer 158. 2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese 159. CHAPTER XX 160. 1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less 161. 2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of 162. 3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut 163. 4. Surprise omelets. 164. CHAPTER XXI 165. CHAPTER XXII 166. CHAPTER XXIII

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