A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and
1223 words | Chapter 106
turnips, stew them in butter, and complete their cooking in the
consommé, which should be thoroughly cleared of grease.
Put the _julienne_, the _paupiettes_, and the stuffed quenelles into
the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling beef consommé, and add a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
608—CONSOMMÉ ROSSINI
Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, slightly thickened with two
tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen.
Make eighteen _profiterolles_, from _pâte à choux_ without sugar
(No. 2374), to the size of hazel-nuts. Bake them in a moderate oven,
keeping them very crisp, and garnish them, inside, with a foie-gras and
truffle purée.
When about to serve, pour the consommé into the soup-tureen, and dish
the _profiterolles_ separately, after having placed them in good time
in the front of the oven, so that they may reach the table very hot.
609—CONSOMMÉ ROTHSCHILD
Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with pheasant _fumet_.
Add thereto, when about to serve, one-quarter pint of reduced Sauterne.
Make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of
one-third of the whole of purée of pheasant, one-third of chestnut
purée, and one-third of pheasant _salmis_ sauce. Poach the royale; cut
it into grooved roundels, and place these in the soup-tureen with one
tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of fillets of pheasant.
When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish.
610—CONSOMMÉ SAINT HUBERT
Take one quart of game consommé, prepared with venison _fumet_. Finish
the consommé, at the time of serving, with one-quarter pint of Marsala.
Make three _dariole-moulds_ of royale from a preparation consisting of
one-third of the whole of venison purée, one-third of lentil purée,
and one-third of reduced game Espagnole. Poach the royale in a small
Charlotte mould, and, when it has cooled, cut it up with a fancy-cutter
of the shape of a cross. Put the crosses of royale into the soup-tureen
with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of fillets of hare,
and pour thereon the boiling consommé.
611—POTAGE SARAH BERNHARDT
Sprinkle three tablespoonfuls of tapioca into one quart of boiling
chicken consommé, and leave to poach gently for fifteen or eighteen
minutes.
Make twenty small quenelles from chicken forcemeat, finished by means
of crayfish butter, and mould them to the shape of small, grooved
meringues. Poach these quenelles. Cut twelve roundels, the size of a
penny, from a piece of beef-marrow, and poach them in the consommé.
Put the drained quenelles and the poached roundels of marrow into the
soup-tureen; add one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of very black
truffles, and the same quantity of asparagus-heads. Pour the boiling
consommé, with tapioca, over this garnish.
612—CONSOMMÉ SÉVIGNÉ
Keep one quart of very clear chicken consommé very warm.
Prepare ten quenelles of chicken forcemeat, moulded by means of a small
coffee-spoon, and poach them; also have ready four braised lettuces.
Put the quenelles, the lettuce cut into small sections and properly
trimmed, and one tablespoonful of peas into the soup-tureen; pour
therein the boiling consommé and a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
613—CONSOMMÉ SOUVERAINE
Have ready one quart of chicken consommé.
Make ten large quenelles from chicken forcemeat, and stuff them with a
very fine _brunoise_, proceeding as follows:—Line a dessertspoon with
a thin coat of forcemeat, and garnish the centre with the _brunoise_,
previously cooked in consommé, and cold. Cover the _brunoise_ with a
layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome; insert another dessertspoon
dipped into hot water under the quenelle, and transfer the latter to a
buttered sautépan. Repeat the operation until the required number of
quenelles have been moulded.
Allow eight minutes for the poaching of these quenelles; put them into
the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of peas; pour thereon the
boiling consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_.
614—TURTLE SOUP
With the exception of a few leading London restaurants, where a large
quantity of this preparation is constantly in demand, turtle soup is
very rarely prepared in the kitchens of catering establishments. It is
more generally obtained ready-made, either fresh or preserved, and as a
rule of exceptional quality, from firms whose speciality it is to make
it, and who deliver it in excellent condition.
From among the London firms who have deservedly earned a reputation
for this soup, “Pécriaux” may be quoted as one whose produce is quite
irreproachable.
When a comparatively small quantity of this soup is required, it is
best to buy it ready-made; in the event of its being desirable to
prepare it oneself, the following recipe will be found the simplest and
most practical for the purpose.
=Particulars of the Operation=
_The Slaughtering of the Turtle._—For soup, take a turtle weighing from
120 to 180 lbs., and let it be very fleshy and full of life.
To slaughter it, lay it on its back on a table, with its head hanging
over the side. By means of a double butcher’s hook, one spike of which
is thrust into the turtle’s lower jaw, while the other suspends an
adequately heavy weight, make the animal hold its head back; then, with
all possible dispatch, sever the head from the body.
Now immediately hang the body over a receptacle, that the blood may be
collected, and leave it thus for one and one-half or two hours.
Then follows the dismemberment:—To begin with, thrust a strong knife
between the carapace or upper shell and the plastron or lower shell,
exactly where the two meet, and separate the one from the other. The
turtle being on its back, cut all the adhering flesh from the plastron,
and put the latter aside. Now cut off the flippers; remove the
intestines, which throw away, and carefully collect all the green fat.
Whereupon cut away the flesh adhering to the carapace; once more remove
all fat, and keep both in reserve.
_The Treatment of the Carapace, the Plastron, and the Flippers._—The
carapace and plastron, which are the outside bony framework of the
turtle, constitute the only portions wherefrom the gelatinous flesh,
used as the garnish of the soup, are obtained.
Saw the carapace into six or eight pieces, and the plastron into four.
Put these pieces with the flippers into boiling water or into steam,
to _blanch_. Withdraw the flippers as soon as they are sufficiently
stiff for their skin to be removed, and leave the pieces of carapace
and plastron to _blanch_ for five minutes, in order that they may admit
of being scraped. Now cool the pieces of carapace and plastron and
the flippers, and put them into a stewpan containing enough water to
abundantly cover them. Set to boil; garnish with vegetables, as in the
case of an ordinary broth, and add a small quantity of turtle herbs.
Five or six hours should be allowed for the cooking of the carapace and
the plastron, but the flippers, which are put to further uses in other
culinary preparations, should be withdrawn at the end of five hours.
When the pieces are taken from the cooking-liquor, remove all the
flesh from the bones, and cool the former; then trim it carefully,
and cut it into little squares of one and one-half inches side. It is
these squares together with the green fat (poached in salted water and
sliced) which constitute the garnish of the soup.
_The Preparation of Turtle Soup._—There are two modes of procedure,
though their respective results are almost identical.
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