A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese
407 words | Chapter 158
in a few tablespoonfuls of pale ale and a little English mustard.
As soon as the cheese has melted, it is poured over the pieces of
buttered toast, quickly smoothed with the flat of a knife, and
sprinkled with cayenne. The pieces may be cut up if required.
2336—SANDWICHES
Sandwiches are prepared in two ways, according to their purposes.
They generally consist of two slices of buttered bread, with mustard
spread upon them, covering a slice of ham or tongue, &c. Sandwiches are
usually rectangular, and they should measure about three inches by one
and one-half inches. The kind served at ball buffets are much smaller,
and therefore it is best to cut the sandwiched product (whatever this
be) into dice, and to mix it with an equal weight of butter containing
mustard.
When sandwiches have to be kept, they should be placed under a slight
weight to prevent the bread from drying. Sandwiches may also be made
from thick, toasted slices of bread, cut laterally into two, and then
garnished according to fancy.
_Names of common Sandwiches._
Ham Sandwich.
Tongue Sandwich.
Beef Sandwich.
Pressed-beef Sandwich.
Veal Sandwich.
Chicken Sandwich.
Foie-Gras Sandwich.
Hard-boiled Egg Sandwich.
Caviare Sandwich.
Tomato Sandwich.
Cucumber Sandwich.
Watercress Sandwich.
Mustard-and-cress Sandwich.
2337—BOOKMAKER SANDWICHES
In his book, “La Cuisine Anglaise,” Mr. Suzanne gives the following
kind of sandwich, which deserves attention:—
This kind of sandwich, which is liked by racing people, is a most
substantial affair, and it will be seen from the following recipe that
a sandwich of the nature prescribed might, in an emergency, answer the
purpose of a meal.
Take an English tin-loaf, and cut off its two end crusts, leaving on
them about one-third inch of crumb. Butter these crusts. Meanwhile
grill a thick steak, well seasoned with salt and pepper. When it is
cooked, cool it; sprinkle it with grated horse-radish and mustard,
and lay it between the two crusts. String the whole together as for a
galantine, and wrap it in several sheets of blotting-paper. Then place
the parcel under a letter-press, the screw of which should be gradually
tightened, and leave the sandwich thus for one-half hour.
At the end of this time the insides of the slices of bread have, owing
to the pressure, become saturated with meat juice, which is prevented
from escaping by the covering of crust.
Remove the blotting-paper, and pack the sandwich in a box or in several
sheets of white paper.
Chapters
1. Chapter 1
2. PART I
3. CHAPTER I PAGE
4. CHAPTER II
5. CHAPTER III
6. CHAPTER IV
7. CHAPTER V
8. CHAPTER VI
9. CHAPTER VII
10. CHAPTER VIII
11. CHAPTER IX
12. CHAPTER X
13. PART II
14. CHAPTER XI PAGE
15. CHAPTER XII
16. CHAPTER XIII
17. CHAPTER XIV
18. CHAPTER XV
19. CHAPTER XVI
20. CHAPTER XVII
21. CHAPTER XVIII
22. CHAPTER XIX
23. CHAPTER XX
24. CHAPTER XXI
25. CHAPTER XXII
26. CHAPTER XXIII
27. PART I
28. CHAPTER I
29. 2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of
30. 5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements
31. 7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and
32. 8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking.
33. 6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c.
34. CHAPTER II
35. 2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By
36. CHAPTER III
37. 1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its
38. 2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through
39. 1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw
40. 2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a
41. 2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly.
42. 1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence
43. 2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice,
44. 3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise
45. 2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika,
46. 1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened
47. 2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this
48. 3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with
49. CHAPTER IV
50. 1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the
51. 2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over
52. 3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with
53. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the
54. CHAPTER V
55. 2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already
56. CHAPTER VI
57. 3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds
58. 1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish,
59. 2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an
60. 3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when
61. 4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the
62. 5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at
63. 6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the
64. CHAPTER VII
65. 2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with
66. 3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or
67. 4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey.
68. 2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such
69. 3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases
70. 1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way,
71. 2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to
72. 3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as
73. 4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always
74. 1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat
75. 2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all
76. 3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially
77. 4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is
78. CHAPTER VIII
79. CHAPTER IX
80. CHAPTER X
81. introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent,
82. 1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup,
83. 2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk
84. 4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or
85. 1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over
86. 2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should
87. 1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb
88. 2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry,
89. 1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be
90. 2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the
91. 3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used
92. 1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped
93. 2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute
94. 1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object,
95. 2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the
96. 3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook,
97. 3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality
98. PART II
99. CHAPTER XI
100. CHAPTER XII
101. CHAPTER XIII
102. 2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams.
103. 3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach
104. 4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy).
105. 2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of
106. 3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and
107. 1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very
108. 2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity
109. 2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet
110. 3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the
111. 4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.
112. 2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be
113. 3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element,
114. CHAPTER XIV
115. 1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails
116. 2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of
117. 3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails
118. 4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of
119. 5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil,
120. 6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of
121. 7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with
122. 8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets,
123. 9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8.
124. 1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with
125. 2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp,
126. 2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole
127. 1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets
128. 1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from
129. 2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease)
130. CHAPTER XV
131. 2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and
132. 1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of
133. 2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil
134. 1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated
135. 3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces.
136. 2. VEAL.
137. CHAPTER XVI
138. 1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras
139. 10. The ortolans.
140. CHAPTER XVII
141. 1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of
142. 2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of
143. 3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg,
144. 4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage,
145. 5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot
146. CHAPTER XVIII
147. 2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the
148. 4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but
149. 2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state,
150. 3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the
151. 2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a
152. 3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the
153. 4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English
154. 5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly
155. 7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the
156. CHAPTER XIX
157. 1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer
158. 2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese
159. CHAPTER XX
160. 1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less
161. 2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of
162. 3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut
163. 4. Surprise omelets.
164. CHAPTER XXI
165. CHAPTER XXII
166. CHAPTER XXIII
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