A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil

4957 words  |  Chapter 133

them; stew them in butter, and add thereto an equal quantity of Provençale sauce. Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, on the _galettes_ of potato, and cover them with the _paysanne_ of chow-chow. 1092—TOURNEDOS A L’ESTRAGON Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter. Dish them in the form of a crown, and on each set either a spray of parboiled tarragon leaves or a lattice composed of the latter. Send separately a thickened gravy with tarragon (No. 41). 1093—TOURNEDOS FAVORITE Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on crusts stamped out with an indented cutter and fried in butter. On each tournedos place a round collop of foie gras, a little smaller than the piece of meat; the collop should be seasoned, dredged, and tossed in butter. On each collop of foie gras put a fine, glazed slice of indented truffle. Garnish the centre of the dish with a fine heap of asparagus-tops cohered with butter, or merely set these in small heaps round the tournedos. Serve separately a timbale of potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter, rolled in pale meat-glaze, and slightly sprinkled with chopped parsley. 1094—TOURNEDOS A LA FLORENTINE Prepare (1) as many _subrics_ of shredded spinach as there are tournedos; make them of the same size as the latter, and cook them at the same time as the tournedos; (2) small, round _croquettes_ of semolina the size of walnuts; these should be fried a few minutes before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the spinach _subrics_. The _croquettes_ of semolina may be arranged either in the middle or all round. 1095—TOURNEDOS FORESTIÈRE Season the tournedos, and _sauté_ them. Set them on crusts fried in butter. Surround them with alternate heaps of noodles and potatoes cut into large dice and tossed in butter. The potatoes may also be placed in the midst of the tournedos with the noodles all round, or vice versâ. 1096—TOURNEDOS GABRIELLE Make a preparation from the white meat of a chicken and truffles—both cut into dice and cohered with the necessary quantity of somewhat light “Duchesse-potatoes” paste. With this preparation make as many small quoit-shaped _croquettes_ as there are tournedos, and fry them while the latter are being cooked. Season the tournedos, and fry them with oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them, in the form of a crown, on the prepared _croquettes_, and on each tournedos set a fine roundel of poached marrow and one slice of truffle. Around the tournedos arrange some very small, braised, and well-trimmed lettuces. 1097—TOURNEDOS HENRI IV Grill the tournedos, and set them on crusts fried in butter. Round the edge of each tournedos lay a thread of Béarnaise sauce, and on top of each an artichoke-bottom garnished with very small potatoes (of the size of hazel-nuts) cooked in butter. N.B.—Instead of putting the sauce on the edge of the tournedos, it may be served separately. 1098—TOURNEDOS JUDIC Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown on crusts fried in butter. On each tournedos set a crown of truffle slices, with a cock’s kidney in the centre, and surround with braised, trimmed, and quartered lettuces. 1099—TOURNEDOS LAKMÉ Prepare (1) as many small tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) the same number of grilled, medium-sized mushrooms; (3) a garnish of one tablespoonful of broad beans with cream per tartlet. Season the tournedos, and fry them in clarified butter. Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a tartlet garnished with broad beans, and set a grilled mushroom on each tournedos. 1100—TOURNEDOS LESDIGUIÈRES Select onions sufficiently large to admit of placing the tournedos upon them, and let their number equal that of the tournedos. Trim their tops, and parboil them almost long enough to cook them. Then, by means of a small knife, cut out their insides so that they may form little cases. Fill the latter, two-thirds full, with spinach prepared with cream, cover the spinach with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze in a fierce oven a few moments before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos; dish them in the form of a crown, each on an onion. 1101—TOURNEDOS LILI Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter. Dish them, in the form of a crown, each on a crust of “Pommes de terre Anna” (No. 2203), stamped out with a round, even cutter of the same size as the tournedos. On each tournedos set an artichoke-bottom garnished with a roundel of foie gras tossed in butter, and on the foie gras place a slice of truffle. Send, separately, a reduced and well-buttered Périgueux sauce. 1102—TOURNEDOS LUCULLUS Season the tournedos; fry them in clarified butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts. Surround them with a garnish consisting of quenelles of chicken forcemeat, cocks’ combs, truffles, and blanched olives, and coat the whole with half-glaze sauce prepared with truffle essence. 1103—TOURNEDOS MADELEINE For ten tournedos prepare (1) ten timbales of a purée of haricot beans. For these timbales the purée of haricot beans must be cohered per lb. with one egg and three yolks, finished with two oz. of butter, put into well-buttered _dariole-moulds_, and set these to poach fifteen minutes in advance. (2) Ten small artichoke-bottoms garnished with reduced Soubise. Season the tournedos; fry them in butter; dish them, and surround them with the timbales and the artichoke-bottoms, alternating the two garnishes. 1104—TOURNEDOS MARÉCHALE Season the tournedos; fry them in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts. On each of the tournedos set a large, glazed slice of truffle, and surround them with little heaps of asparagus-heads cohered with butter. 1105—TOURNEDOS MARIE-LOUISE Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter. Dish them, in the form of a crown, upon crusts one-third inch thick, fried in butter. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, stewed in butter, garnished in the shape of a dome, by means of a piping-bag, with a purée of mushrooms combined with a quart of very reduced Soubise. 1106—TOURNEDOS MASCOTTE Season the tournedos, and fry them in butter. Have a garnish ready consisting of raw, quartered artichoke-bottoms fried in butter; small, olive-shaped potatoes, also cooked in butter; and olive-shaped truffles. When about to serve, dish the tournedos in a _cocotte_ with the garnish above described. Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little gravy; reduce the whole, strain it into the _cocotte_, and put the latter in the front of the oven for a minute or two. 1107—TOURNEDOS MASSÉNA Season the tournedos and fry them in butter; dish them on fried crusts of the same size, and, in the middle of each tournedos, set a large slice of poached marrow. Surround with a row of small artichoke-bottoms, garnished with very stiff Béarnaise sauce. 1108—TOURNEDOS A LA MÉNAGÈRE Put into an earthenware _cocotte_ the following vegetables, which should be in proportion to the number of tournedos:—Haricot butter or “Princesse” cut into small pieces, minced new carrots, very small new onions, and very fresh peas. All these vegetables should be equally apportioned. Add salt, butter, and a very little water, for the cooking of the vegetables should be effected mainly by the concentration of steam inside the _cocotte_, which, for the purpose, should therefore be well closed. Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon the vegetables in the _cocotte_ at the last moment. 1109—TOURNEDOS A LA MEXICAINE Prepare (1) a _fondue_ of peeled and pressed tomatoes, cooked in butter, well reduced, and in the proportion of one tablespoonful per mushroom; (2) as many large grilled mushrooms as there are tournedos, while the latter are being fried; (3) some grilled or fried capsicums in the proportion of half a one per tournedos. Season the tournedos, and fry them in oil and butter in equal quantities. Dish them each on a mushroom garnished with the _fondue_ of tomatoes, and cover them with the grilled or fried capsicums. 1110—TOURNEDOS MIKADO Select some fine, rather firm tomatoes—“Mikados,” as they are called—and cut them in two laterally. Squeeze them with the object of expressing all their juice and seeds; season them inside, and grill them so that they may be ready at the same time as the tournedos. Season the latter and fry them in butter. Dish them in the form of a crown, each on a grilled half-tomato, and garnish the centre of the dish with Japanese artichokes tossed in butter. 1111—TOURNEDOS MIRABEAU Grill the tournedos. Lay eight fine strips of anchovy fillets upon each, crossing the former after the manner of a lattice. Cover the edges with a crown of blanched tarragon leaves, and set a large stoned olive in the middle of each tournedos. Send some half-melted anchovy butter separately, and allow two-thirds oz. of it for each tournedos. 1112—TOURNEDOS MIREILLE For ten tournedos, prepare in advance, (1) five _croustades_ from the preparation used for “pommes Duchesse.” To make these _croustades_, fill some buttered _dariole-moulds_ with the preparation referred to, taking care to press it snugly into them. Dip the moulds into tepid water, turn out, treat the mouldings _à l’anglaise_, fry them, hollow out their centres, and keep them hot. (2) A _fondue_ of tomatoes in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per _croustade_. (3) Five timbales of pilaff rice, made after the same manner as the _croustades_, and kept hot until required for dishing. Season the tournedos, fry them in butter, and dish them as soon as they are ready. Surround them with timbales of rice, and the _croustades_ garnished with the fondue, the two garnishes to be alternated. 1113—TOURNEDOS MIRETTE Prepare as many small timbales of “pommes Mirette” (No. 2234) as there are tournedos. Turn them out on a dish, sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of melted butter, and set them to glaze a few minutes before the tournedos are ready. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and set a timbale of pommes Mirette upon each. Swill the sauté-pan with white wine; add thereto a little meat-glaze, finish with butter, and pour the resulting sauce over the tournedos. 1114—TOURNEDOS A LA MOELLE Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown. Lay on each of them a large slice of poached marrow, and either surround them with Bordelaise sauce or send the latter to the table separately. 1115—TOURNEDOS MONTGOMERY Season the tournedos and fry them in butter. Dish them upon a pancake of spinach (No. 2138), cooked in a tartlet-mould. Deck each tournedos with a rosette of reduced Soubise, made by means of a piping-bag fitted with a grooved pipe, and put a fine slice of truffle in the centre of the rosette. 1116—TOURNEDOS MONTPENSIER Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a garnish of asparagus-heads, cohered with butter, in the proportion of one heaped tablespoonful per tartlet. Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon fried crusts. On each of them set a tartlet garnished with asparagus-heads, with a slice of truffle in the middle. 1117—TOURNEDOS AUX MORILLES Grill the tournedos or fry them in butter. Dish them in the form of a crown; in the centre arrange a heap of morels tossed in butter, and besprinkle them moderately with chopped parsley. 1118—TOURNEDOS A LA NIÇOISE Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown. In the centre of each tournedos set a small heap, consisting of one half-tablespoonful of peeled, pressed, and _concassed_ tomatoes, tossed in butter, together with a little crushed garlic and chopped tarragon. Surround with small heaps of French beans cohered with butter, and other heaps of small potatoes, cooked in butter, alternating the two garnishes. 1119—TOURNEDOS NINON Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them upon crusts of “pommes Anna,” stamped out with a round fancy-cutter of the same size as the tournedos. On each of the latter set a small patty, garnished with asparagus-heads, cohered with butter and combined with a fine and short _julienne_ of truffles. 1120—TOURNEDOS PARMENTIER Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown. In the middle of the dish or round it set a fine heap of potatoes, cut into regular cubes of two-thirds inch side, or raised by means of an oval, grooved spoon-cutter. The potatoes should be cooked in butter and kept very soft. Slightly sprinkle the potatoes with chopped parsley. 1121—TOURNEDOS PERSANE Prepare as many green capsicums, stuffed with rice moulded to the shape of balls and braised, and as many grilled half-tomatoes as there are tournedos. Also have some fried slices of banana ready, and allow three for each tournedos. Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, on the grilled half-tomatoes. On each tournedos set a stuffed and braised capsicum. In the centre of the dish arrange the fried slices of banana in a nice heap. Send separately to the table a Châteaubriand sauce, combined with the reduced braising-liquor of the capsicums. 1122—TOURNEDOS PERUVIENNE Prepare, after the manner described below, as many oxalis roots as there are tournedos. Peel the oxalis roots; cut a slice from underneath them, in order to make them stand upright, and hollow them out to form little cases. Chop up the pulp extracted from them in the last operation, and add it to a preparation of duxelles, made as for stuffed mushrooms. Fill the oxalis cases with this preparation, shaping it above their edges after the manner of a dome; besprinkle with raspings and oil, and put them in the oven in good time for them to be ready at the same time as the tournedos. Grill the tournedos, dish them in the form of a crown, and surround them with the oxalis cases. 1123—TOURNEDOS PIÉMONTAISE Butter as many tartlet-moulds as there are tournedos; fill them with Rizotto à la Piémontaise, combined with white truffles cut into dice, and keep them hot. Fry the tournedos in clarified butter; dish them, in the form of a crown, on the rizotto tartlets, turned out at the last minute. 1124—TOURNEDOS PROVENÇALE For ten tournedos, prepare (1) ten medium-sized mushrooms, stuffed with duxelles, slightly flavoured with garlic, and put in the oven in good time; (2) ten half-tomatoes à la Provençale (No. 2266). Fry the tournedos in equal quantities of butter and oil; dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts, with a half-tomato upon each, and around them set the stuffed mushrooms. 1125—TOURNEDOS RACHEL Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, on fried crusts one-third inch thick. On each tournedos set a small artichoke-bottom, garnished with a large slice of poached marrow. Send a Bordelaise sauce separately. 1126—TOURNEDOS ROSSINI Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts. On each tournedos set a round slice of foie gras, just a little smaller than the former; the slices should be seasoned, dredged, and fried in butter. On each slice of foie-gras, set a fine slice of truffle. 1127—TOURNEDOS ROUMANILLE Cut the tournedos a little smaller than usual. Season them; fry them in butter, and dish them in a circle on grilled half-tomatoes. Coat the tournedos with Mornay sauce, and set them to glaze quickly. In the middle of each tournedos set a large stuffed and poached olive, encircled by a ring consisting of an anchovy fillet. In the centre of the dish arrange a fine heap of egg-plant roundels, seasoned with salt and pepper, dredged, fried in oil, and kept very crisp. 1128—TOURNEDOS SAINT MANDE Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them, in the form of a circle, each on a little cushion of “pommes de terre Macaire,” moulded in ordinary tartlet-moulds. In the centre of the dish set a garnish consisting of peas cohered with butter. 1129—TOURNEDOS A LA SARDE Prepare a garnish of (1) hollowed, parboiled, and braised sections of cucumber, stuffed with duxelles, and _gratined_; (2) small tomatoes, similarly treated; (3) small round croquettes of rice flavoured with saffron, thickened with egg-yolks, treated _à l’anglaise_, and fried. Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in the form of a crown. Set a croquette of rice upon each tournedos, and frame the whole with the stuffed cucumber cases and the stuffed tomatoes, laid alternately. 1130—TOURNEDOS SOUBISE Grill the tournedos and dish them in the form of a crown. Serve a light Soubise purée separately. 1131—TOURNEDOS TIVOLI For ten tournedos, prepare ten small grilled mushrooms, and allow one half-tomato tossed in butter for each mushroom. Fry the tournedos in butter and dish them, in the form of a crown, upon fried crusts. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, garnished with a tossed half-tomato, and all round set some fine “pommes soufflées” made in ribbon-form, of a round shape, and in the proportion of one potato to each tournedos. Send a Béarnaise sauce separately. 1132—TOURNEDOS TYROLIENNE For ten tournedos, prepare the following sauce:—Gently cook one chopped onion in butter; add two peeled, pressed, and roughly-chopped tomatoes, salt, pepper, chopped parsley, and a little crushed garlic. When the tomatoes are sufficiently cooked, add thereto a few tablespoonfuls of poivrade sauce, and set to boil for five minutes. Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, and cover them with the prepared sauce. 1133—TOURNEDOS VALENÇAY Fry the tournedos in butter; dish them in the form of a crown, each on a small, round, and flat croquette of noodles and ham, fried just before dishing up. Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately. 1134—TOURNEDOS VALENTINO Prepare as many pieces of turnips, of the same diameter as the tournedos and one and one-half inch thick, as there are tournedos. Cut them neatly round, stamp them with an even and round cutter, and parboil them until they are almost completely cooked. Hollow them out, by means of a spoon, inside the mark left by the fancy-cutter, and stuff them with a preparation of semolina with Parmesan. Put these stuffed pieces of turnip in a sautépan; add a little water, butter, and sugar, and glaze them while finishing their cooking-process. Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle, each on a stuffed case of turnip. 1135—TOURNEDOS VERT-PRÉ Grill the tournedos, and dish them simply with half-melted butter à la Maître-d’Hôtel upon them. Surround them with alternate heaps of water-cress and freshly-fried straw potatoes. 1136—TOURNEDOS VICTORIA Fry the tournedos in butter. Dish them in a circle, each on a little round and flat croquette of chicken-meat. On each tournedos set a half-tomato tossed in butter. 1137—TOURNEDOS VILLARET Prepare (1) as many tartlet-crusts as there are tournedos; (2) a sufficient quantity of very smooth flageolet purée to garnish the tartlets; (3) a fine grilled tomato per each tournedos. Grill the tournedos, and dish them on the garnished tartlets. On each tournedos set a grilled mushroom, the hollow of which should have been filled with Châteaubriand sauce. 1138—TOURNEDOS VILLENEUVE Fry the tournedos in butter, and dish them in a circle on little quoit-shaped croquettes of chicken-meat, fried at the last moment. On each tournedos set a crown of small roundels of tongue and truffle, laid alternately, and a small grooved mushroom in the middle. Send a Châteaubriand sauce separately. 1139—TOURNEDOS VILLEMER Grill the tournedos, and dish them in a circle, each on a fried, hollowed-out crust, garnished with truffled Soubise. On each tournedos set a large slice of truffle coated with meat-glaze. 1140—FILETS EN CHEVREUIL For the “en chevreuil” treatment, the meat used is generally cut from the narrowest end of the fillet of beef. The weight of the pieces cut should average about three oz. each. After having slightly flattened and trimmed them, lard them with very thin strips of bacon, and _marinade_ them for a few hours in the raw _marinade_ given under No. 169. When about to cook them, dry them thoroughly, and fry them quickly in hot oil, taking care that the latter be smoking, and therefore hot enough to set the meat and to cause its external moisture to evaporate. The fillets may be accompanied by all vegetable purées and highly-seasoned sauces, the most suitable of the latter being the Poivrade and the Chasseur. 1141—SIRLOIN OF BEEF (Relevé) Sirloin of beef is that part of the bullock’s back reaching from the haunch to the floating ribs, which is equivalent to the saddle in veal and mutton. This piece, however, cannot properly be called “sirloin,” except when it comprises the fillet or undercut, and the upper fillet (Fr.: contrefilet), so-called to distinguish it from the undercut. If this joint be treated whole, it need only be shortened by suppressing the flank, and by sectioning the ligament lying alongside of the chine on the upper fillet, in different places. A little fat is left on the undercut, but none whatever must be removed from the upper fillet. As a rule, when sirloin of beef is braised, it is cut laterally into pieces weighing from six to seven lbs. If it is to be roasted, it is best to keep it whole. When served as a relevé, it is braised or roasted, and is kept underdone if so desired. Unless it be of excellent quality, however, braised sirloin generally turns out to be dry. All garnishes given for “Filet de Bœuf” may be served with sirloin; but, as a rule, the bulkiest, such as the “Richelieu,” the “Provençale,” the “Godard,” &c., are selected. The accompanying sauce is that indicated for the above garnishes. 1142—PORTERHOUSE-STEAK (Grill) Porterhouse-steak is a slice from the sirloin of beef, which may be more or less thick. It is cleared of the flank and of the bones of the chine, and it is always grilled. It may be served with any of the various garnishes and sauces suited to grills; but it is more often served plain. 1143—UPPER FILLET AND RIBS OF BEEF (Relevé) The upper fillet is that part of beef which lies between the top of the haunch and the floating ribs, alongside of the chine. It may be treated like the fillet, and all the garnishes suited to the latter may also be applied here. If the piece is to be braised, it should be completely boned; if intended for roasting, it is best to retain the bones. In the latter case, the large ligament should be cut at various points with the view of preventing distortion, while the bones constituting the spinous process should be broken close to the point where they join the body of the vertebræ, that they may be easily removed when the meat is being carved. The upper fillet, especially when it is of good quality, is best roasted. Ribs of beef may likewise be braised or roasted. In either case, the meat should be properly trimmed and cleared of all the bones of the spinous process. This piece should only be used after having been well hung, in order that it may be as tender as possible. 1144—GRILLED SIRLOIN STEAKS AND RIBS OF BEEF The sirloin steak may be cut either from the upper fillet or the ribs of beef, _i.e._, between two rib-bones. In order that its cooking may be regular, it should not weigh more than from two to three lbs. Ribs of beef may also be grilled, provided they be sufficiently tender. They may be braised, too, and in this case they are served with any of the various garnishes given under Fillet of Beef. 1145—PIÈCE DE BŒUF BRAISÉE (Relevé) The piece of beef called rump is the one preferred for boiling and braising. Whatever be the use for which the meat is intended, the weight of the pieces should not be more than six or eight lbs. at the most, and they should be cut in the length rather than in the thickness, that the cooking process may be facilitated. All the garnishes of braised sirloin of beef are suited to braised pieces of beef. Boiled beef is generally accompanied by the vegetables used in its cooking-process, by purées, green or dry vegetables, pastes, macaroni, &c., &c. 1146—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA BOURGUIGNONNE Lard the piece of beef, and _marinade_ it for three hours in brandy and red wine. Braise it after the manner described under No. 247; moisten first with the wine of the _marinade_, and, when the latter is reduced, with some veal gravy and one-half pint of Espagnole sauce per quart of liquid, taking care that the whole moistening reaches the top of the piece of meat. Add a faggot and some mushroom parings; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven. When the meat is two-thirds cooked, transfer it to another saucepan, and surround it with mushrooms cut into two or four, according to their size, and tossed in butter; breast of bacon, cut into dice, blanched and tossed in butter, and some small onions half-glazed with butter. Strain the sauce through a sieve over the piece of beef and its garnish, and complete the cooking gently. A few minutes before serving, put the meat on a dish and glaze it in the oven. Transfer the meat to the dish intended for the table; quickly reduce the sauce if necessary, and pour it over the piece of beef and the garnish. 1147—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA CUILLER Select a very square or oval piece of beef, and bear in mind, in selecting it, that it will have to be fashioned to the shape of a case when it has been cooked. String it, and braise it after the manner described under No. 247, almost entirely covering it with moistening liquor. Set it to cook gently; withdraw the piece when the meat is still somewhat firm, and let it cool under slight pressure. This done, cut out the meat from the inside; leave a thickness of about half-inch round the sides and on the bottom, and the piece thus emptied should constitute a square or oval case, in accordance with the shape originally adopted. Coat the outside of the whole piece with a mixture of beaten eggs and fine bread-crumbs, combined with Parmesan; sprinkle melted butter over it with a brush, and put the case into a sufficiently hot oven to allow of a crust forming round it. Meanwhile chop up the meat extracted from the inside of the piece; add thereto a little salted tongue, some braised slices of sweet-bread, and mushrooms; put the whole into a sautépan with an Italian or a half-glaze sauce, according to the requirements, and heat this garnish. N.B.—This preparation was quite common in old-fashioned cookery, but though it is still served occasionally, it is now looked upon more as a curiosity than anything else. As a curiosity, therefore, I chose to include it among these recipes; but it does not follow from this that I in any way recommend it. 1148—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA FLAMANDE Lard the piece of beef, and braise it as explained under No. 247. Meanwhile prepare the following garnish:—(1) Cut a nice firm cabbage into four, remove the heart, and parboil it for seven or eight minutes. Drain it; cool it; divide up the quarters, leaf by leaf, so as to remove the hard ribs, and season with salt and pepper. Mould them to the shape of balls by pressing them in the corner of a towel into balls weighing about three oz. each, or simply put them into a saucepan with a quartered carrot, an onion stuck with a clove, a faggot, six oz. of blanched breast of pork, and a little raw sausage with garlic, which latter must be withdrawn after cooking has gone on for one and one-half hours. Moisten the cabbage with just sufficient consommé to cover it; add a few tablespoonfuls of good stock-fat; set to boil, and cook gently in the oven for one and one-half hours. (2) Cut the required quantity of carrots and turnips to the shape of olives; cook them in consommé, and reduce the latter for the purpose of glazing. (3) Prepare some potatoes _à l’anglaise_. Set the piece of beef on a dish large enough to allow of the former being surrounded with the moulded or plainly-heaped cabbages, the glazed carrots and turnips, and the potatoes _à_ _l’anglaise_. The last two vegetables should be set in alternate heaps with the cabbages and the bacon (cut into small rectangles) and the sausage (cut into roundels) should be distributed all round. Serve separately the gravy of the piece of beef, cleared of all grease, reduced to a half-glaze and strained. 1149—PIÈCE DE BŒUF A LA MODE CHAUDE Lard the piece of beef, which should not, if possible, weigh more than from four to five lbs. The strips of bacon used for larding ought to have been prepared fifteen or twenty minutes in advance, _marinaded_ in a few tablespoonfuls of brandy, and sprinkled with parsley just before being used. Rub the piece with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and put it into a basin with one bottle of red wine and one-fifth pint of brandy, and set it to _marinade_ for four or five hours, taking care to turn it over from time to time. Then set it to braise after the manner described under No. 247; add its _marinade_ to the moistening, and surround it with three small, boned, blanched, and strung calf’s feet. When the cooking is three-quarters done, transfer the piece of beef to another saucepan, and surround it with the following garnish:—

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. PART I 3. CHAPTER I PAGE 4. CHAPTER II 5. CHAPTER III 6. CHAPTER IV 7. CHAPTER V 8. CHAPTER VI 9. CHAPTER VII 10. CHAPTER VIII 11. CHAPTER IX 12. CHAPTER X 13. PART II 14. CHAPTER XI PAGE 15. CHAPTER XII 16. CHAPTER XIII 17. CHAPTER XIV 18. CHAPTER XV 19. CHAPTER XVI 20. CHAPTER XVII 21. CHAPTER XVIII 22. CHAPTER XIX 23. CHAPTER XX 24. CHAPTER XXI 25. CHAPTER XXII 26. CHAPTER XXIII 27. PART I 28. CHAPTER I 29. 2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of 30. 5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements 31. 7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and 32. 8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking. 33. 6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c. 34. CHAPTER II 35. 2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By 36. CHAPTER III 37. 1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its 38. 2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through 39. 1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw 40. 2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a 41. 2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly. 42. 1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence 43. 2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, 44. 3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise 45. 2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, 46. 1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened 47. 2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this 48. 3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with 49. CHAPTER IV 50. 1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the 51. 2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over 52. 3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with 53. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the 54. CHAPTER V 55. 2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already 56. CHAPTER VI 57. 3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds 58. 1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish, 59. 2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an 60. 3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when 61. 4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the 62. 5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at 63. 6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the 64. CHAPTER VII 65. 2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with 66. 3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or 67. 4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey. 68. 2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such 69. 3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases 70. 1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way, 71. 2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to 72. 3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as 73. 4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always 74. 1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat 75. 2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all 76. 3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially 77. 4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is 78. CHAPTER VIII 79. CHAPTER IX 80. CHAPTER X 81. introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent, 82. 1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup, 83. 2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk 84. 4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or 85. 1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over 86. 2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should 87. 1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb 88. 2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry, 89. 1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be 90. 2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the 91. 3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used 92. 1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped 93. 2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute 94. 1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object, 95. 2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the 96. 3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook, 97. 3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality 98. PART II 99. CHAPTER XI 100. CHAPTER XII 101. CHAPTER XIII 102. 2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams. 103. 3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach 104. 4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy). 105. 2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of 106. 3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and 107. 1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very 108. 2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity 109. 2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet 110. 3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the 111. 4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish. 112. 2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be 113. 3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element, 114. CHAPTER XIV 115. 1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 116. 2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of 117. 3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 118. 4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 119. 5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil, 120. 6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 121. 7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with 122. 8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets, 123. 9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8. 124. 1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with 125. 2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp, 126. 2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole 127. 1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets 128. 1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from 129. 2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease) 130. CHAPTER XV 131. 2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and 132. 1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of 133. 2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil 134. 1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated 135. 3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces. 136. 2. VEAL. 137. CHAPTER XVI 138. 1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras 139. 10. The ortolans. 140. CHAPTER XVII 141. 1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of 142. 2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of 143. 3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg, 144. 4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage, 145. 5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot 146. CHAPTER XVIII 147. 2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the 148. 4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but 149. 2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state, 150. 3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the 151. 2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a 152. 3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the 153. 4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English 154. 5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly 155. 7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the 156. CHAPTER XIX 157. 1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer 158. 2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese 159. CHAPTER XX 160. 1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less 161. 2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of 162. 3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut 163. 4. Surprise omelets. 164. CHAPTER XXI 165. CHAPTER XXII 166. CHAPTER XXIII

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