A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy).

6130 words  |  Chapter 104

Having poached and cooled the royales, cut them as follows:— (1) Into dice, (2) into lozenges, (3) into little leaves, and (4) into stars. Place them all in the soup-tureen, and, when about to serve, pour one quart of boiling and very clear chicken consommé over them. 547—POTAGE BORTSCH Cut in _julienne-fashion_ the heads of two leeks, one carrot, half of an onion, four oz. of the white of cabbage leaves, half a root of parsley, the white part of a stick of celery, and four oz. of beetroot; set the whole to stew gently in butter. Moisten with one quart of white consommé and two or three tablespoonfuls of the juice of grated beetroot; add a small bunch of fennel and sweet marjoram, two lbs. of moderately fat breast of beef, and the half of a semi-roasted duck; set to cook gently for four hours. When about to serve, cut the breast of beef into large dice, and cut the duck into small slices; finish the soup with one-quarter pint of beetroot juice, extracted from grated beetroot pressed in linen, and a little blanched and chopped fennel and parsley. Put the beef dice and sliced duck into the soup, with twelve grilled and despumated _chipolatas_. Serve, separately, a sauceboat of sour cream. N.B.—The _chipolatas_ may be replaced by very small patties with duck forcemeat, which should be served separately. 548—CONSOMMÉ BRUNOISE Cut into small dice the red part only of two small carrots, one small turnip, the heads of two leeks, a small stick of celery, and the third of an onion of medium size. Season the vegetables moderately with salt and a pinch of sugar, and stew them in butter. Moisten with one-half pint of consommé, and complete the cooking of the Brunoise gently. Five minutes before serving, finish with one quart of boiling, ordinary consommé, a moderate tablespoonful of peas, and the same quantity of French beans, cut into dice and kept very green. Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_. 549—CONSOMMÉ CARMEN Prepare one quart of consommé, to which add, while clarifying, one-quarter pint of raw tomato purée, in order to give it a faint, pink tinge. Also peel and press a small and rather firm tomato; cut into dice, and poach the latter in some of the consommé; put them in the soup-tureen with a small tablespoonful of mild capsicum, cut in fine _julienne-fashion_, and one tablespoonful of plain-boiled rice. When about to serve, pour the boiling consommé over the garnish, and add a small pinch of chervil _pluches_. 550—CONSOMMÉ CASTELLANE Prepare (1) one quart of game consommé, flavoured with a _fumet_ of woodcock; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale, two-thirds of which consists of a purée of woodcock and one-third of lentils, with half the yolk of a hard-boiled egg, chopped and thickened with the usual leason. Cut this royale into slices, about the size of a florin, one-half inch thick. Put these into the soup-tureen, together with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of roast woodcock fillets, and pour thereon the boiling game consommé. 551—CONSOMMÉ CÉLESTINE Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto three small tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through fine linen. For the garnish make three _pannequets_ (No. 2403 and 2476) without sugar, and spread over each a thin coating of chicken forcemeat with cream. Place one on top of the other, sprinkle the layer of forcemeat on the uppermost one with finely-chopped, very black truffles, and place in the front of the oven for a few minutes, in order to poach the forcemeat. Stamp the _pannequets_ out with an even fancy-cutter about one inch in diameter. Put the pieces into a soup-tureen, and, when about to serve, pour in the boiling consommé. 552—CONSOMMÉ CHARTREUSE Prepare (1) eighteen small _ravioles_ (No. 2296)—six from spinach purée, six from foie-gras purée, and the remaining six from chopped mushrooms; (2) two small tablespoonfuls of tomato dice. Ten minutes before serving, poach the _ravioles_ in boiling, salted water, and the tomato dice in some of the consommé. Put the ravioles and the tomato dice (well drained) into the soup-tureen, and pour over them one quart of consommé with a moderate addition of tapioca. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 553—CONSOMMÉ AUX CHEVEUX D’ANGE About two minutes before serving, plunge three oz. of very fine vermicelli, known as Angel’s Hair (Cheveux d’Ange) into one quart of excellent, boiling consommé. An instant only is needed to poach the vermicelli, and the latter does not require to be blanched. This soup, like those containing pastes, should be accompanied by freshly-grated Parmesan cheese. 554—CONSOMMÉ COLBERT Have ready one quart of excellent _Printanier_ chicken consommé (No. 601). Also poach six small eggs in slightly salted and acidulated water. The eggs should be as small and as fresh as possible, both of which conditions are absolutely necessary for a proper poaching (see poached eggs, No. 411). Set these eggs in a small timbale with a little consommé, and send them to the table with the Printanier. Having poured the latter into the plates, put one of the eggs into each of these. 555—CONSOMMÉ COLOMBINE Prepare a good tablespoonful of carrot pearls, and as many turnip pearls, keeping the latter very white. Cook them in the customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of very green peas, one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of roast-pigeon fillets, and six poached pigeons’ eggs, which latter should be sent to the table in a timbale at the same time as the consommé. Pour over the other garnish one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken consommé, and serve immediately. This soup can only appear on summer and spring menus, when the pigeons’ eggs are in season. 556—CROÛTE AU POT Prepare a freshly-cooked vegetable garnish for a stockpot:—Carrots and turnips cut into small sticks and trimmed; a few heads of leeks, and cabbage, parboiled, minced, and cooked in very fat consommé. Put these vegetables in a somewhat greasy broth for ten minutes. Also prepare seven or eight crusts of French soup “_flutes_”; besprinkle them with stock grease, and dry them in the oven. Put the vegetable garnish into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of consommé of the Petite Marmite (No. 598), and add to the dried crusts. 557—CONSOMMÉ CYRANO Prepare (1) one quart of consommé with a _fumet_ of duck; (2) twelve small quenelles of duck forcemeat, which should be made flat and oval. Having poached the quenelles, drain them, and set them in a small, shallow earthen pan or timbale; sprinkle with a little grated Parmesan cheese and a few drops of chicken glaze, and set to glaze in the oven. The quenelles are served separately in the pan in which they have been glazed, and the consommé is sent to the table in a soup-tureen. 558—CONSOMMÉ DEMIDOFF With the small spoon-cutter, pick out a good tablespoonful of carrot, and the same quantity of turnip pearls. Cook these vegetables in the customary way, and put them in the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of truffle pearls, the same quantity of peas, and small, poached, chicken-forcemeat quenelles with herbs. Pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 559—CONSOMMÉ DESLIGNAC Prepare (1) two small, stuffed lettuces, rolled into sausage form and poached; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream. Cut the royale into small, regular dice; trim the lettuce, and cut it into slices; put this garnish into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 560—CONSOMMÉ AUX DIABLOTINS Cut a French soup “_flute_” into twelve slices one-quarter inch thick. Reduce about one-quarter pint of Béchamel to a thick consistence; add thereto, away from the fire, two heaped tablespoonfuls of grated Gruyère cheese, and season with a little cayenne. Garnish the slices of soup “flute” with this preparation, arranged in the form of a dome, upon a tray, and set it to glaze a few minutes before serving. Pour one quart of chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and add the diablotins. 561—CONSOMMÉ DIPLOMATE Roll into small sausage-form three oz. of chicken forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter. Poach the sausages, cut them into thin roundels, and put them into the soup-tureen with one dessertspoonful of very black truffle, cut in _julienne-fashion_. Pour over this garnish one quart of boiling chicken consommé, thickened with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen. 562—CONSOMMÉ DIVETTE Prepare two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from crayfish velouté, eighteen small quenelles of smelt forcemeat, moulded to the shape of pearls, and one tablespoonful of small pearls of very black truffle. Cut the royale into oval slices, and put these into the soup with the poached quenelles and the truffle pearls. Pour one quart of very clear, boiling consommé over the garnish. 563—CONSOMMÉ DORIA Prepare the following garnish:—Thirty pellets of cucumber in the shape of large pearls; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, long in shape and grooved; six little pellets, about the size of a large pea, of _pâte à choux_, combined with grated cheese, rolled by hand; and one and one-half tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls, poached in some of the consommé. Put the cucumber pellets, cooked in consommé, into the soup-tureen; add the poached quenelles and the Japanese pearls. Four minutes before serving, plunge the pellets of _pâte à choux_ into hot fat, keeping them crisp. When about to serve, pour over the garnish one quart of boiling chicken consommé; complete with a pinch of chervil _pluches_, and serve the little, fried pellets separately. 564—CONSOMMÉ DOUGLAS With an even cutter, the size of a penny, cut up some braised and cooled sweetbread into twelve roundels one-third inch thick; with the same cutter cut out twelve more roundels from some cooked artichoke-bottoms, and put the whole into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads. When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling, highly seasoned, ordinary consommé upon the garnish. 565—CONSOMMÉ A L’ÉCOSSAISE Prepare a special mutton broth, and, at the same time, cook a fine piece of breast of mutton for the garnish. Per two quarts of broth, put into the soup-tureen four tablespoonfuls of pearl-barley, cooked very gently beforehand; two tablespoonfuls of French beans, cut into lozenges, and the breast of mutton cut into regular dice of one-half inch side, in the proportion of one tablespoonful for each person. Pour the boiling mutton broth over this garnish, after having removed all the grease and strained it through linen. 566—CONSOMMÉ FAVORITE With a spoon-cutter, pick from out some violet potatoes eighteen pellets the size of small hazel-nuts, and cook them in salted water in good time for them to be ready for the dishing up of the soup. Put them in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of artichoke-bottoms and the same quantity of cooked mushrooms, also cut in _julienne-fashion_. Pour over the garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 566a—CONSOMMÉ A LA FERMIÈRE Mince, somewhat finely, one small carrot, one small turnip, the heads of two leeks, and the half of an onion. Slightly stew these vegetables in one and one-half oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints of white consommé; add two oz. of parboiled cabbage, cut roughly into a _julienne_, and complete the cooking gently, taking care to remove all grease, with the view of obtaining a very clear consommé. Pour into the soup-tureen, and add a few thin slices of French soup “_flute_,” slightly dried. 567—CONSOMMÉ FLORENTINE With fine chicken forcemeat make twenty-four small quenelles on a buttered tray, their shape being that of small Mecca loaves. To the forcemeat of six of these quenelles add some very finely chopped tongue; add white chicken-meat to that of another six; and to that of the remaining twelve add some very reduced spinach purée. The quenelles with spinach should number twice those with the other two ingredients, in order that the preparation may be in keeping with its designation “à la Florentine.” Poach the quenelles; put them in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green, cooked peas. When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé over this garnish, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 568—CONSOMMÉ GAULOISE Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ham royale, and poach the latter in a small, well-buttered Charlotte mould. When quite cold, cut it into large lozenges, and put these into the soup-tureen with six small cocks’ combs and six small cocks’ kidneys (these latter as small as possible). When about to serve, pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened slightly with two tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen. 569—CONSOMMÉ GEORGE SAND Have ready one quart of consommé flavoured with very clear fish _fumet_. Also prepare twelve small quenelles of whiting forcemeat, finished with crayfish butter; stew twelve morels, which should be left whole if very small, and cut into two if they are of medium size; twelve small slices of poached carps’ milt, and twelve little roundels of French soup “_flutes_.” Put the poached quenelles and the stewed morels into the soup-tureen; pour therein the boiling, fish consommé, and send the slices of carps’ milt set on the roundels of French soup “_flute_” separately to the table. 570—CONSOMMÉ GERMAINE Prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a purée of very green peas, combined with a tablespoonful of Mirepoix stewed in butter, and a strong pinch of small, chervil _pluches_; eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat with cream, moulded to the form of pastils. When the royale is cold, cut it into regular roundels, and put these into the soup-tureen with the poached quenelles. When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over the garnish. 571—CONSOMMÉ GIRONDINE Prepare (1) one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé; (2) two _baba-moulds_ of ordinary royale made with whole eggs and combined with two tablespoonfuls of cooked and finely-chopped lean ham; (3) three tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of carrots (the red part only) stewed in butter, the cooking of which should be completed in the consommé. Put the royale, cut into large, regular lozenges, and the _julienne_ of carrots into the soup-tureen, and pour in the boiling beef consommé. 572—CONSOMMÉ GRIMALDI Have ready one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, to which have been added, while clarifying, four tablespoonfuls of raw tomato purée, strained through fine linen. Also prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of ordinary royale, and three tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of the white of celery, stewed in butter, finally cooked in the consommé, and with all grease removed. Put the royale, cut into large dice, and the _julienne_ of celery into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé with tomatoes. 573—CONSOMMÉ IMPERIALE Prepare three _dariole-moulds_ of mousseline forcemeat of fowl (No. 195), and put it to poach in a small Charlotte mould. When quite cold, cut it, by means of a cutter, into roundels the size of a penny, and put these in the soup-tureen with six small _blanched_ cocks’ combs and three sliced cocks’ kidneys, and two tablespoonfuls of very green peas. Pour over this garnish one quart of chicken consommé, thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. 574—CONSOMMÉ A L’INDIENNE Have ready one quart of ordinary consommé seasoned with curry. Also prepare three _baba-moulds_ of royale made from cocoanut milk, and, when quite cold, cut into small dice. Put this royale into the soup-tureen; pour on it the boiling consommé with curry, and send to the table, separately, four tablespoonfuls of Rice à l’Indienne (No. 2254). 575—CONSOMMÉ A L’INFANTE With some _pâte à choux_ (No. 2374) prepare eighteen _profiterolles_ of the size of hazel-nuts. Cook them, taking care to keep them very crisp, and stuff them when cold with purée de foie gras moistened with velouté. Put two tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of mild capsicum into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon one quart of boiling chicken consommé, moderately thickened with poached tapioca strained through linen. Serve the _profiterolles_ of foie gras separately, after having heated them in the front of the oven. N.B.—The garnish of Consommé à l’Infante may consist only of the _profiterolles_, and the _julienne_ of capsicum may be suppressed; this is a matter of taste. 576—CONSOMMÉ JACQUELINE With a small spoon-cutter, pick from out some carrots twenty-four little oval pellets, which should be cooked in the consommé. Prepare two _baba-moulds_ of royale with cream. Put into the soup-tureen the pellets of carrots and the royale cut to the shape of pastils, one tablespoonful of peas, the same quantity of very green asparagus-heads, and one tablespoonful of rice. When about to serve, pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé over this garnish. 576a—CONSOMMÉ JULIENNE Cut into fillets, two inches in length, the red part only of two medium-sized carrots, one medium-sized turnip, one leek, half a stick of celery, some cabbage leaves, and half an onion. Season these vegetables with a pinch of salt and as much castor sugar; stew them in one oz. of butter; moisten with one and one-half pints of white consommé, and then add two oz. of small parboiled cabbages, cut after the manner of the other vegetables. Finish the cooking gently, removing the grease the while, and complete with one small tablespoonful of very green, cooked peas, one tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and one pinch of chervil _pluches_. 577—CONSOMMÉ LORETTE Have ready one quart of chicken consommé. Also prepare two tablespoonfuls of a fine _julienne_ of celery stewed in butter and cooked in the consommé; twelve small “pommes à la lorette” (No. 2226), the size of hazel-nuts, and shaped like small crescents. These potatoes should be fried in hot fat four minutes before serving. Put into the soup-tureen the _julienne_ of celery, twelve small, freshly-poached cocks’ kidneys, and one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of pimentos; pour the boiling consommé over this garnish; add a pinch of chervil _pluches_, and send the lorette potatoes to the table separately. 578—CONSOMMÉ MACDONALD Prepare (1) one quart of highly seasoned beef consommé, (2) two _dariole-moulds_ of brain-purée royale; (3) two tablespoonfuls of cucumbers cut into small dice and cooked in consommé until the latter is reduced to a glaze; (4) five little _ravioles_ garnished with chicken forcemeat combined with a third of its volume of spinach. Put these _ravioles_ to poach in salted boiling water twelve minutes before serving. Put into the soup-tureen the royale of brains cut into roundels one-third inch thick, the dice of cucumber, and the _ravioles_ poached and well drained. Pour the boiling beef consommé over this garnish just before serving. 579—CONSOMMÉ MARGUERITE Take two tablespoonfuls of chicken forcemeat with cream, and roll it into sausage-form on the floured mixing-board. Put the sausage to poach. Rub the yolk of an egg through a fine sieve, and cohere it with half a teaspoonful of raw forcemeat. Having poached and cooled the chicken sausage, cut it into thin roundels, and stamp each roundel with a fancy-cutter to the shape of a marguerite. Arrange the marguerites on a dish, and lay in the middle of each a bit of the egg and forcemeat, in imitation of the flower-centre. Put these marguerites into the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of small, green asparagus cut into lengths of one inch. When about to serve, pour one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé over this garnish. 580—CONSOMMÉ MARQUISE Prepare one quart of good, ordinary consommé, to which three sticks of celery have been added, while clarifying, in order that the taste of the celery may be very decided. Make thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat combined with finely-chopped filberts, giving them the shape of pastils. Poach these quenelles ten minutes before serving. Also poach in _court-bouillon_ two calf’s piths, and cut them into thin roundels. Put the poached quenelles and the roundels of calf’s piths into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. 581—CONSOMMÉ MERCÉDÈS Prepare one quart of chicken consommé with pimentos, combined, at the last minute, away from the fire, with one-half pint of sherry. Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of capsicum, cut in fine _julienne-fashion_ and short, and some small, freshly-cooked cocks’ combs. When about to serve, pour the consommé over this garnish. 582—CONSOMMÉ MESSALINE Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and add thereto, while clarifying, one-quarter pint of tomato essence, obtained by reducing the moisture contained by the tomato to a syrup. Put into the soup-tureen twelve small, freshly-poached cocks’ combs, two tablespoonfuls of Spanish capsicum cut into a _julienne_ and poached in the consommé if fresh (this should have been previously grilled, with the view of removing the skins), and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, every grain of which should be distinct. Pour the boiling consommé over this garnish. 583—CONSOMMÉ METTERNICH Prepare one quart of game consommé with pheasant _fumet_. Also poach two _dariole-moulds_ of royale, made from a purée of artichokes combined with some tablespoonfuls of the reduced game Espagnole. Cut this royale into dice; put these into a soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of pheasant fillets, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. 584—CONSOMMÉ A LA MILANAISE Cook in slightly salted boiling water two oz. of moderately thick macaroni. As soon as it is cooked, drain it, lay it on a piece of linen, and cut it into small rings. Also prepare one-quarter pint of Béchamel, thickened with the yolk of one egg combined with one oz. of grated cheese, and keep it very dense. Mix the rings of macaroni with this sauce; spread the whole on a dish, and leave to cool. Now divide up the preparation into portions the size of walnuts; roll these into balls, and then flatten them out to form quoits about the size of shillings. Treat these quoits with an _anglaise_, and very fine bread-crumbs, and plunge into hot fat four minutes before serving. Drain them when they have acquired a fine golden colour. Pour one quart of boiling chicken consommé into the soup-tureen, and send to the table, separately, (1) the fried macaroni quoits; (2) one and one-half oz. of Gruyère and Parmesan cheese, in equal quantities, grated and mixed. 585—CONSOMMÉ MIREILLE Add one tablespoonful of very concentrated tomato purée to three oz. of chicken forcemeat; roll this preparation into the form of a somewhat large sausage, and poach it. When cold, cut it into roundels, one-quarter inch thick, and stamp each roundel with an oval fancy-cutter in the shape of a medallion. Put these medallions in the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of saffroned pilaff rice (No. 2255), and, when about to serve, pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling chicken consommé. 586—CONSOMMÉ MIRETTE Make eighteen quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of large pearls, and poach them. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of lettuce _chiffonade_ (the heart of one lettuce cut _julienne-fashion_ and stewed in butter); make eighteen _paillettes_ with Parmesan (No. 2322), and put them in a very hot oven eight or ten minutes before serving. Put the poached quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of boiling consommé of the Petite Marmite, and one pinch of chervil _pluches_. Send the _paillettes_ au Parmesan to the table separately, and have them very hot. 587—CONSOMMÉ MONTE CARLO Make and poach thirty small quenelles of chicken forcemeat; _cisel_ and stew in butter the heart of one lettuce; prepare twelve little _profiterolles_ of _pâte à choux_, the size of hazel-nuts, and cook them, taking care to keep them crisp. Put the quenelles and the lettuce _chiffonade_ into the soup-tureen; pour thereon one quart of very clear, boiling, chicken consommé, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. Serve the _profiterolles_ separately and very hot. 588—CONSOMMÉ MONTMORENCY Have ready one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca, strained through linen. Prepare eighteen small grooved quenelles of chicken forcemeat. Poach, drain, and put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of very green asparagus-heads and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, every grain of which should be distinct and separate. 589—CONSOMMÉ A LA MOSCOVITE Prepare one quart of sterlet or sturgeon consommé, and add thereto some cucumber essence, obtained by pounding a cored and peeled cucumber, and straining the resulting purée through linen. Put into the soup-tureen two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted mushrooms, one oz. of soaked _vesiga_ cut into dice and cooked in broth, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. N.B.—_Vesiga_ or the spine-marrow of the sturgeon ought to be soaked in cold water for a few hours in order to soften and swell it, after which it should be cut into dice and cooked in broth. For every four tablespoonfuls of cooked _vesiga_, one oz. of dry _vesiga_ should be allowed. 590—CONSOMMÉ NESSELRODE Have ready one quart of game consommé, prepared with hazel-hen _fumet_. Poach two _baba-moulds_ of royale made from chestnut purée with two small tablespoonfuls of game _salmis_ sauce added thereto; cut it into roundels half-inch thick, and trim these with a grooved fancy-cutter. Put them into the soup-tureen with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of hazel-hen fillets, the same quantity of a _julienne_ of mushrooms, and pour thereon the boiling game consommé. 591—CONSOMMÉ AUX NIDS D’HIRONDELLES The nests used for this soup are those of the esculent swallow, and their shape somewhat resembles that of the rind of a quartered, dry orange. In the first place, prepare a chicken consommé containing a large proportion of nutritious principles. Set three nests to soak in cold water for twenty-four hours, the object being to swell the mucilaginous elements of which they are composed and to make them transparent. When they have soaked sufficiently remove any pieces of feather which may have remained in them, using for this purpose the point of a needle, and, when the nests are quite clean, drain them and put them into the consommé. At this stage set the consommé to boil, gently, for thirty or thirty-five minutes without interruption. During this time the gummy portions of the nests will melt into the consommé, giving the latter its characteristic viscidity, and there will only remain visible those portions which, in the natural state, constitute the framework of the nests; that is to say, little threads not unlike superfine transparent vermicelli. 592—CONSOMMÉ AUX ŒUFS DE FAUVETTE I introduced this consommé in honour of the illustrious singer, Adelina Patti. It consists of a chicken consommé, which should be made as perfect as possible, and a garnish composed of the poached eggs of small birds. 593—CONSOMMÉ OLGA Prepare one quart of excellent ordinary consommé, and add thereto, when about to serve and away from the fire, one-quarter pint of port wine. Also cut into a fine _julienne_ the quarter of a small celeriac, the white of a leek, and the red part only of a small carrot. Stew this _julienne_ in butter and complete its cooking in consommé, reducing the latter to a glaze. When about to serve put this _julienne_ in a soup tureen, add a few tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of salted gherkins, and pour thereon the consommé with port. 594—CONSOMMÉ D’ORLÉANS Lay on a buttered tray ten small quenelles of ordinary chicken forcemeat, ten others of chicken forcemeat combined with a very red tomato purée, and ten more of the same forcemeat, combined with a purée of spinach, all the quenelles being grooved. Ten minutes before serving poach these quenelles, drain them, put them in the soup-tureen, and pour therein one quart of chicken consommé thickened with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. Add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 595—CONSOMMÉ D’ORSAY Prepare one quart of very clear chicken consommé, also make fifteen small quenelles of pigeon forcemeat moulded to the shape of eggs by means of a very small spoon, and poach the yolks of ten eggs, taking care to keep them very soft. Put the quenelles and the poached yolks into the soup-tureen with a _julienne_ of three fillets of pigeon and a tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. Serve at once. 596—OX-TAIL SOUP _For Ten People._—Garnish the bottom of a small stock-pot or stewpan with one fine carrot and two medium-sized onions cut into roundels and browned in butter, and one faggot. Add two small ox-tails, or one of medium size weighing about four lbs. (The tails should be cut into sections, each of which should contain one of the caudal vertebræ, and they should then be browned in the oven.) Also add two lbs. of gelatinous bones, broken very small and likewise browned in the oven. Now proceed exactly as for brown veal stock (No. 9), taking note that the whole moistening must consist of no more than two and one-half quarts of ordinary broth and one quart of water. Set to boil very gently for four and one-half or five hours. This done, strain the broth, which should be reduced to two and one-half quarts, and completely remove its grease. Transfer the largest sections of the tails, by means of a braiding-needle, one by one to another saucepan. Cover them with broth, and keep them warm for the garnish. Finely chop one lb. of very lean beef; put this mince into a saucepan with the white of a leek cut into dice and half the white of an egg, and mix thoroughly. Add the broth, the grease of which has been removed, set to boil, stirring constantly the while, and then leave to simmer for one hour, which is the time required for the beef to exude all its juices and for the clarification of the broth. While the clarification is in progress cut a small carrot in _brunoise fashion_, or turn it by means of a very small spoon. Cook this garnish in a little water with butter, salt, and sugar. A few minutes before serving strain the ox-tail broth through a napkin, put the sections of ox-tail and _brunoise_ into the soup-tureen, and pour thereon the prepared broth. This soup may be flavoured with port or sherry, but this is optional. N.B.—If a thickened ox-tail soup be required add to the broth per every quart of it one-third of an oz. of arrowroot diluted with a little of the broth or some cold water. 597—CONSOMMÉ PARISIENNE Have one quart of chicken consommé ready. For the garnish prepare two _dariole-moulds_ of royale made from a purée of ordinary _julienne_, a small _macédoine_ of vegetables, comprising one heaped tablespoonful each of carrots and turnips divided up by means of a small grooved spoon and cooked in the usual way, one tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of fine French beans cut into lozenges, and one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads. Cut the royale into regular roundels; put these in the soup-tureen with the _macédoine_ of vegetables, and, when about to serve, pour thereon the boiling chicken consommé. Add a pinch of fine chervil _pluches_. 598—LA PETITE MARMITE _For Ten People._—Prepare a consommé in a special earthenware stock-pot in accordance with the procedure indicated in recipe No. 1, but with the following quantities, viz., two lbs. of lean beef and as much breast of beef, one marrow-bone tied in a muslin-bag, and the necks, the pinions, and the gizzards of six large fowls, these giblets being inserted in the stewpan one hour before dishing up. Moisten with three and one-half quarts of water and add three-quarters of an oz. of salt. Set to boil, skim as indicated, and cook gently with the view of obtaining a very clear broth. One hour before serving add six oz. of carrots and the same quantity of turnips, both cut to the shape of large olives, five oz. of the white of leeks, and a heart of celery. Cook a quarter of a very white, properly _blanched_ cabbage, separately, in a saucepan with a little consommé and some stock grease. When about to serve test the seasoning of the consommé, which latter should be very clear; thoroughly clean the stewpan, which may even be covered with a clean napkin; withdraw the marrow-bone; take it out of its muslin-bag, and send it and the cabbage to the table separately, accompanied by a plate of small pieces of hot toast for the marrow. 599—THE POT-AU-FEU Prepare this exactly like the Petite Marmite. 600—POULE AU POT, or Poule au Pot Henri IV This is a variation of the Petite Marmite, in which a tender and very fleshy hen is substituted for the giblets of fowl. _Strictly observe_ the rule of never using a new earthenware stock-pot before having boiled water in it for at least twelve hours. Also bear in mind that earthenware stock-pots should be washed in hot water only, without any soda or soap. 601—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER Have ready one quart of chicken consommé, also cut one carrot and one turnip into roundels one-half inch thick. With a tubular cutter one-eighth inch in diameter, cut these roundels into little rods, making a sufficient number to fill one tablespoonful with each vegetable. Cook these little rods in consommé, and reduce the latter to a glaze. Put the carrot and turnip rods into the soup-tureen with one tablespoonful of small peas, the same quantity of small French beans and asparagus-heads, the former cut into lozenges, ten roundels of sorrel leaves, and as many of lettuce leaves, the latter being poached in some consommé. When about to serve pour the boiling consommé over these garnishes and add a large pinch of small chervil _pluches_. 602—CONSOMMÉ PRINTANIER AUX QUENELLES Prepare the printanier exactly as directed above, but slightly lessen the quantities of the vegetables constituting the garnish. Make eighteen small quenelles of chicken forcemeat in the shape of little grooved meringues, and poach them ten minutes before dishing up. Drain them, put them into the soup-tureen with the other garnishes, and pour thereon the boiling consommé. 603—CONSOMMÉ AUX PROFITEROLLES Prepare forty very dry _profiterolles_ (No. 218), and add an excellent chicken consommé to them at the last moment. The _profiterolles_ may also be made to the size of walnuts, in which case they may be stuffed with a purée of chicken, foie gras, &c. 604—CONSOMMÉ RACHEL Prepare one quart of chicken consommé, and thicken it with three tablespoonfuls of poached tapioca strained through linen. With a round, even cutter stamp out twelve roundels of crumb of bread the size of pennies and one-half inch thick. Poach in consommé as many slices of very fresh beef-marrow as there are roundels of bread. Six minutes before serving fry the roundels of bread in clarified butter, hollow out their centres, and place on each a slice of poached beef-marrow suitably trimmed. Put three tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ of cooked artichoke bottoms into the soup-tureen, pour thereon the thickened consommé, and add the roundels of bread garnished with marrow. 605—CONSOMMÉ REJANE Prepare one quart of excellent white consommé, set it to boil, and add a _julienne_ of the white of half a fowl and the heads of two leeks cut similarly to the fowl. Set to cook gently for ten minutes, taking care to disturb the consommé as little as possible, add three oz. of potatoes cut into a _julienne_, complete the cooking, and serve immediately. 606—CONSOMMÉ RENAISSANCE Prepare one quart of clear chicken consommé. For the garnish make two _dariole-moulds_ of royale with a purée of early-season herbs thickened with velouté and whole eggs; with a small grooved spoon-cutter pick out one tablespoonful of pellets from a turnip and the red part only of a carrot. Cook these vegetables in the usual way. Cut the royale with a grooved fancy-cutter into pieces of the shape of small leaves. Put the leaves of royale into the soup-tureen with the carrot and turnip pellets, one tablespoonful of very green peas, the same quantity of French beans cut into lozenges, one tablespoonful of asparagus-heads, and twelve very small particles of very white cauliflower. Pour the boiling consommé over these garnishes, and add a pinch of chervil _pluches_. 607—CONSOMMÉ RICHELIEU Have ready one quart of highly-seasoned beef consommé. Also (1) prepare twelve quenelles of chicken forcemeat moulded by means of a small coffee-spoon, proceeding as follows:—Line the spoon with a thin coating of the forcemeat, and in the middle lay some chopped, reduced, cold chicken aspic. Cover the jelly with a layer of forcemeat, shaping it like a dome; insert another spoon (first dipped in hot water) under the quenelle, and place the latter upon a buttered sautépan. Repeat the operation until the required number of quenelles have been moulded. Treated in this way, the quenelles, when poached, contain, so to speak, a liquid core. Five minutes before dishing up, poach the quenelles.

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. PART I 3. CHAPTER I PAGE 4. CHAPTER II 5. CHAPTER III 6. CHAPTER IV 7. CHAPTER V 8. CHAPTER VI 9. CHAPTER VII 10. CHAPTER VIII 11. CHAPTER IX 12. CHAPTER X 13. PART II 14. CHAPTER XI PAGE 15. CHAPTER XII 16. CHAPTER XIII 17. CHAPTER XIV 18. CHAPTER XV 19. CHAPTER XVI 20. CHAPTER XVII 21. CHAPTER XVIII 22. CHAPTER XIX 23. CHAPTER XX 24. CHAPTER XXI 25. CHAPTER XXII 26. CHAPTER XXIII 27. PART I 28. CHAPTER I 29. 2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of 30. 5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements 31. 7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and 32. 8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking. 33. 6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c. 34. CHAPTER II 35. 2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By 36. CHAPTER III 37. 1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its 38. 2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through 39. 1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw 40. 2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a 41. 2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly. 42. 1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence 43. 2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, 44. 3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise 45. 2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, 46. 1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened 47. 2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this 48. 3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with 49. CHAPTER IV 50. 1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the 51. 2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over 52. 3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with 53. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the 54. CHAPTER V 55. 2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already 56. CHAPTER VI 57. 3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds 58. 1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish, 59. 2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an 60. 3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when 61. 4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the 62. 5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at 63. 6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the 64. CHAPTER VII 65. 2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with 66. 3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or 67. 4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey. 68. 2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such 69. 3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases 70. 1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way, 71. 2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to 72. 3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as 73. 4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always 74. 1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat 75. 2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all 76. 3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially 77. 4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is 78. CHAPTER VIII 79. CHAPTER IX 80. CHAPTER X 81. introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent, 82. 1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup, 83. 2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk 84. 4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or 85. 1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over 86. 2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should 87. 1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb 88. 2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry, 89. 1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be 90. 2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the 91. 3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used 92. 1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped 93. 2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute 94. 1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object, 95. 2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the 96. 3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook, 97. 3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality 98. PART II 99. CHAPTER XI 100. CHAPTER XII 101. CHAPTER XIII 102. 2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams. 103. 3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach 104. 4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy). 105. 2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of 106. 3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and 107. 1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very 108. 2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity 109. 2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet 110. 3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the 111. 4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish. 112. 2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be 113. 3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element, 114. CHAPTER XIV 115. 1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 116. 2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of 117. 3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 118. 4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 119. 5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil, 120. 6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 121. 7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with 122. 8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets, 123. 9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8. 124. 1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with 125. 2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp, 126. 2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole 127. 1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets 128. 1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from 129. 2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease) 130. CHAPTER XV 131. 2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and 132. 1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of 133. 2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil 134. 1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated 135. 3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces. 136. 2. VEAL. 137. CHAPTER XVI 138. 1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras 139. 10. The ortolans. 140. CHAPTER XVII 141. 1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of 142. 2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of 143. 3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg, 144. 4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage, 145. 5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot 146. CHAPTER XVIII 147. 2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the 148. 4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but 149. 2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state, 150. 3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the 151. 2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a 152. 3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the 153. 4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English 154. 5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly 155. 7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the 156. CHAPTER XIX 157. 1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer 158. 2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese 159. CHAPTER XX 160. 1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less 161. 2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of 162. 3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut 163. 4. Surprise omelets. 164. CHAPTER XXI 165. CHAPTER XXII 166. CHAPTER XXIII

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