A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier
4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.
5756 words | Chapter 111
618—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CAILLES
Use roast quails in the proportion of two for each pint of consommé;
the fillets may be reserved for a cold entrée.
619—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CÉLERI
It is impossible to state exactly how much celery should be used, the
quantity being entirely subject to the more or less decided flavour of
the vegetables at one’s disposal.
Experience alone can guide the operator in this matter.
620—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE MORILLES
Allow five oz. of small fresh morels, or three oz. of dry ones per
quart of the consommé. Pound them and mix them with the clarification.
621—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE TRUFFLE
Use fresh truffles only in this case. Allow two oz. of peelings and
trimmings per quart of the consommé; pound them and mix them with the
clarification.
622—CONSOMMÉ AU FUMET DE PERDREAU
Proceed as in No. 618; allow one partridge for each quart of the
consommé.
623—CONSOMMÉ AUX PAILLETTES D’OR
Take a very superior chicken consommé; add thereto, per quart, a glass
of excellent liqueur brandy, and, in the same proportion, one gold-leaf
cut into small spangles.
624—CONSOMMÉ AUX PIMENTS DOUX
Add one-half oz. of fresh or preserved capsicum to every quart
of the consommé. The product should be pounded and mixed with the
clarification.
625—CONSOMMÉ A LA MADRILÈNE
Add four oz. of raw tomato and one oz. of capsicum to the consommé
per every quart of the latter. Mix these ingredients with the
clarification, and serve as cold as possible.
626—CONSOMMÉ A LA PORTUGAISE
Add to the consommé for every quart one-third pint of raw tomato
purée and one-sixth pint of tomato juice. Cook with lid on for twenty
minutes, taking care not to let it reach the boil; strain through
muslin, pressing lightly the while, and season moderately with cayenne.
Set to cool, and serve very cold.
627—CONSOMMÉS AUX VINS
By adding a port wine glass full of the chosen wine to one pint of
excellent cold chicken consommé, the following series of consommés may
be made:—
Consommé au vin de Chypre.
Consommé au vin de Madère.
Consommé au vin de Malvoisie.
Consommé au vin de Marsala.
Consommé au vin de Porto doré.
Consommé au vin de Porto rose.
Consommé au vin de Samos.
Consommé au vin de Zucco.
628—GELEE AUX POMMES D’AMOUR
Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” and use that variety of small
tomatoes which, in Provence, are called “Pommes d’amour.”
629—GELEE DE VOLAILLE A LA NAPOLITAINE
Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” but finish it with one port
wine-glassful of port or old Marsala per quart.
THICK SOUPS
In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick soups
consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules which should be
observed in the preparation of each class of these soups, and showed
how most of them could, if necessary, be converted into and served
as cullises, purées, bisques, veloutés, or creams. The principles
governing these alterations are very simple, and after a moment’s
reflection the operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as
it may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end of
each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation.
With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any directions
of the sort referred to, and which I simply class under the name of
Potages, these are unalterable preparations which may only be served
in accordance with the directions given. This being clear, the reader
will understand that I have refrained from repeating the quantities
of butter, cream, thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These
particulars having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer
to that part of the book for them.
630—PURÉE DE CAROTTES, otherwise CRÉCY
Cut one lb. of the red part only of carrots into fine slices; chop
one onion, and put the whole into a stewpan with a sprig of thyme and
two oz. of butter. Stew gently for twenty minutes, and season with a
pinch of salt and sugar. Add the thickening ingredient, _i.e._, either
two oz. of rice or five and one-half oz. of bread dice fried in butter;
also add one and one-half pints of white consommé, and set to cook very
gently.
Rub through tammy, test the consistence, despumate, and add butter when
dishing up.
Ordinary garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.
Occasional garnish: poached Japanese pearls in the proportion of two
tablespoonfuls per quart of the soup.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream or a velouté à la Nivernaise
(see No. 674).
631—PURÉE DE CAROTTES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise VELOURS
Make one pint of carrot purée as above, and poach two tablespoonfuls of
tapioca in a pint of white consommé.
When about to serve, and after having buttered the purée of carrots,
mix therewith the prepared tapioca.
632—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE
Finely mince one lb. of celeriac; _blanch_ it; thoroughly drain it,
and stew it gently in one oz. of butter. Moisten with one quart of
white consommé; add two medium-sized potatoes, minced, and set to cook
gently. Rub through tammy; despumate the purée gently for half an hour,
and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish: small bread dice fried in butter.
633—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES, otherwise FLAMANDE
Parboil and drain one lb. of very fresh Brussels sprouts. Set them to
stew gently in three oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of white
consommé; for the leason add two medium-sized quartered potatoes, and
complete the cooking.
Rub the whole through tammy, finish the purée with milk, despumate it
in the usual way, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with small
bread dice fried in butter.
634—PURÉE DE CHOUX-FLEURS, otherwise DUBARRY
Parboil one lb. of cauliflower divided into bunches.
Drain them and put them in a saucepan with one pint of boiled milk
and two medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening. Set to cook
gently, rub through tammy, finish with boiled milk, despumate, and add
butter.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream with small
pieces of cauliflower as garnish.
635—PURÉE DE CROSNES, otherwise JAPONAISE
Parboil and drain one lb. of well-cleaned stachys. Stew them in one oz.
of butter; moisten with one pint of boiled milk or white consommé,
according as to whether the purée is to be a Lenten one or not; add two
medium-sized minced potatoes, and complete the cooking gently.
Rub through tammy, test the consistence, and add, if necessary, either
a little boiled milk or some consommé; despumate, and add butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé
or milk.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
636—PURÉE DE FLAGEOLETS, otherwise MUSARD
Cook together with the ordinary aromatic garnish three-quarters pint of
dry flageolets, or, if they are in season, use twice that quantity of
fresh ones.
Drain, pound, and moisten the purée with a little of the cooking-liquor
of the flageolets, rub through tammy, and rectify the consistence
with some white consommé and the necessary quantity of boiled milk.
Despumate, and butter it when about to dish up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream, but for either
of the latter it is preferable to use fresh flageolets, the garnish for
both consisting of very small flageolets and chervil _pluches_.
637—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS, otherwise SOISSONNAISE
Cook in the usual way, that is to say, with carrots, a faggot, and one
onion stuck with a clove, a good half-pint of dry haricot beans.
Crush all these, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of their
cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy.
Rectify the consistence of the purée with the necessary quantity of
white consommé and milk, despumate, add butter when about to dish up,
and garnish with small bread dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
638—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS, otherwise CORMEILLES
Parboil one and one-half lbs. of French beans and keep them very green.
After having well drained them, stew them for ten or twelve minutes in
one oz. of butter, moisten with one pint of white consommé, and add two
medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening.
Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, rectify the consistence of the
purée with a little boiled milk, despumate, and add butter when dishing
up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked French beans cut into narrow
lozenges.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
639—PURÉE DE HARICOTS ROUGES, otherwise CONDÉ
Put a heaped pint of red beans into cold water, set to boil slowly,
skim, add three oz. of carrots, one small faggot, one onion stuck with
a clove, and a bottleful of boiling red wine. Set to cook gently.
Drain the beans and crush them in a mortar. Moisten the purée with a
few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of the beans, rub through
tammy, rectify the consistence of the purée with some white consommé,
follow the procedure of all purées, and add butter when about to serve.
Garnish with bread dice fried in butter.
640—PURÉE DE LENTILLES, otherwise CONTI
Soak three-quarters of a pint of lentils in lukewarm water for two
hours. Put them in a stewpan with two oz. of very lean breast of bacon,
_blanched_, cooled, and cut into dice, and one quart of white consommé.
Set to boil, skim, add three oz. of carrots, one onion, and one faggot,
and cook very gently.
Drain the lentils, pound them together with the bacon, moisten the
purée with a few tablespoonfuls of cooking-liquor, and rub through
tammy. Rectify the consistence with some reserved cooking-liquor, then
treat the purée in the usual way and add butter when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of bread dice fried in butter and a
pinch of chervil _pluches_.
N.B.—It should be borne in mind that the aromatic garnish used in
cooking dry vegetables of what kind soever should be withdrawn before
pounding the latter, that they may be rubbed through tammy.
641—PURÉE DE NAVETS, otherwise FRENEUSE
Finely mince one lb. of very firm turnips, parboil, drain, and stew
them in one and one-half oz. of butter, the necessary salt, and
one-half oz. of sugar, until they are almost completely cooked. Moisten
with one-half pint of white consommé, and complete the cooking.
Meantime, cook two medium-sized, peeled and quartered potatoes in some
consommé.
Now put the turnips and the potato into the same stewpan; crush them,
and rub them through tammy. Bring the purée to the proper consistence
by means of boiled milk, and finish it in the usual way.
Garnish with some small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
642—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE VERMICELLE A LA CRÈME
Sprinkle three oz. of well-separated vermicelli into one pint of
boiling milk or white consommé (according as to whether the preparation
be a Lenten one or not). Let the vermicelli poach gently for
twenty-five minutes, and then add four tablespoonfuls of sorrel cooked
in butter.
Rub the whole through tammy; finish the purée with sufficient milk or
thin cream; heat until the boil is reached, and, when about to serve,
complete by means of a leason composed of the yolks of two eggs and
one-quarter pint of very fresh cream.
For the garnish, refer to the remarks under No. 646.
643—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SAGOU A LA CRÈME
Proceed exactly as directed in the preceding recipe; but instead of
vermicelli use three oz. of sago. Allow the usual time for cooking, and
add the same quantity of sorrel cooked in butter.
Use the same quantities of milk or consommé in order to bring the purée
to the proper consistence, and make use of a precisely similar leason.
644—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SEMOULE A LA CRÈME
The same as the above, but use three oz. of semolina. All other
particulars remain the same.
645—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE TAPIOCA A LA CRÈME
Procedure like that of No. 642, using instead of the vermicelli
three oz. of tapioca.
646—REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE POSSIBLE VARIATIONS OF THE FOUR PRECEDING
RECIPES
A large variety of this kind of soups may be prepared by using the
quantity prescribed of salep, buckwheat, oatmeal, barley-meal, &c.
These soups derive a particular and agreeable flavour from their
cohering element.
The chief point to be remembered in their preparation is their
consistence, which should be that of a thin cream.
When too thick, these soups are pasty and disagreeable; when too thin,
they are insipid; hence the desirability of aiming at a happy medium.
Their garnish is exceedingly variable, the more preferable forms being
small bread dice fried in clarified butter, pressed; peeled tomatoes
cut into dice and tossed in butter; small _printaniers_, _brunoises_,
_juliennes_, _paysannes_, or well-poached rice.
Thus, from the typical recipe of these soups, a whole series may be
prepared, which need not be gone into separately here.
647—PURÉE DE POIS AUX CROÛTONS
Wash three-quarters of a pint of split peas in cold water and put
them into a stewpan with one quart of cold water, a little salt,
and one-half lb. of raw ham. Set to boil, skim, and add two oz. of
_mirepoix_, the minced green leaves of three leeks, a fragment of thyme
and bay, salt, and one-half oz. of sugar. Set to cook very gently.
Rub through tammy, bring the purée to the proper consistence by means
of white consommé, despumate it sufficiently, and add butter to it when
dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter.
648—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, otherwise SAINT-GERMAIN
The two following methods may be employed, viz.:—
(1) Cook quickly one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas, just shelled,
in boiling, salted water. Drain them, pound them in a mortar, moisten
the purée with one pint of white consommé, and rub it through tammy.
Bring it to the proper degree of heat, and add butter when about to
serve. Prepared in this way, the purée should be of a perfect shade.
(2) Stew one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas in one and
one-half oz. of butter, a little lettuce _chiffonade_, one and
one-half oz. of the green part of leeks, a pinch of chervil, a little
salt and sugar, and one-seventh pint of water.
Pound the peas as soon as they are cooked, moisten the purée with one
pint of white consommé, and rub through tammy. Bring the preparation to
the proper degree of heat and add butter at the last moment.
Treated thus, the purée will be of a fainter shade than the preceding
one, but its flavour will be more delicate.
Garnish, in both cases, with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of very
green, fine peas, and some chervil _pluches_. This soup may also be
prepared as a velouté or a cream.
649—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS A LA MENTHE
Make the purée according to one of the above-mentioned methods, and add
to the peas, while cooking, a faggot consisting of three little sprigs
of fresh mint. Finish with consommé, and add butter in the usual way.
Garnish with nice peas, as above, and some very tender mint-leaves,
chopped, instead of the chervil _pluches_.
_Remarks Relative to those Soups which have a Purée of Peas for
Base._—A large number of soups may be made from purées of fresh peas;
among others I may mention the following, with brief directions as to
their constituents and garnish, viz.:—
650—POTAGE AMBASSADEURS
Purée of fresh peas, quite ready for soup; finish with a small
tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and two
tablespoonfuls of poached rice per quart of purée.
651—POTAGE CAMELIA
Prepare this after the recipe of potage Lamballe; finish with
one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of the white of a leek and one
tablespoonful of white chicken meat, cut _julienne-fashion_, per quart
of the soup.
652—POTAGE FONTANGES
Purée of fresh peas ready for soup; add two tablespoonfuls of a
_chiffonade_ of sorrel and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of
the purée, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice.
653—POTAGE LAMBALLE
Half of this consists of a finished purée of peas, and the other half
of tapioca poached in consommé as for the ordinary “potage au tapioca.”
654—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS
This is the “potage Fontange,” kept somewhat clear, and with a garnish
composed of one and one-half oz. of vermicelli, poached in consommé,
and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of the soup.
655—POTAGE MARIGNY
Proceed as for “potage Fontange,” and add a garnish of one
tablespoonful of peas and one tablespoonful of fine French beans cut
into lozenges.
656—POTAGE MARCILLY
Half of this consists of a purée of peas and the other half of a purée
of chicken. Prepare these purées in the usual way and mix them together
when about to serve.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé
and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, in the shape of
pearls, per quart of the soup.
657—POTAGE SAINT-MARCEAU
This is an ordinary purée of peas with butter, combined with two
tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of the white of a leek and
some chervil _pluches_ per quart of the purée. This list could be
considerably lengthened, but what there is of it amply suffices to show
the great number of soups that may be obtained from the combination of
other suitable products with the purée of peas and the modification of
the garnish in each case.
658—PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE, otherwise PARMENTIER
Finely mince the white of two medium-sized leeks, and fry them without
colouration in one oz. of butter. Add three medium-sized peeled and
quartered potatoes, one pint of white consommé, and cook quickly. The
moment the potatoes seem soft to the touch crush them and rub them
through tammy.
Finish the purée with some boiled milk or thin cream, heat until the
boil is reached, and add butter when dishing up.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter and
some chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
659—PURÉE DE TOMATES, otherwise PORTUGAISE
Fry in one oz. of butter a somewhat finely-cut _mirepoix_ consisting of
one oz. of breast of bacon cut into dice, one-third of a carrot, half
an onion, a fragment of thyme and bay. Add to this fried _mirepoix_
eight medium-sized tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces the size of a
clove of garlic, a pinch of sugar, two and one-half oz. of rice, and
one pint of white consommé. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, and
finish with the necessary quantity of consommé.
When about to serve complete the purée by adding thereto, away from the
fire, two oz. of butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, each grain being
separate, and the same quantity of peeled tomatoes cut into dice and
briskly tossed in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
660—PURÉE DE TOMATES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise WALDÈZE
Prepare one and one-half pints of tapioca in white consommé, and keep
it a little lighter than ordinary tapioca. Also press, peel, and cut
into dice the pulp of three medium-sized, very red tomatoes; poach
these dice in some consommé and mix them with the tapioca.
Or, failing fresh tomatoes, add to the tapioca two tablespoonfuls of
concentrated tomato purée diluted in a bowl with some white consommé.
Send two oz. of grated cheese to the table separately.
661—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOUR, otherwise PALESTINE
Finely mince two lbs. of Jerusalem artichokes and stew them in one oz.
of butter. Add five torrefied and crushed filberts, moistened with
one pint of white consommé, and set to cook gently. Rub through
tammy; finish the purée with one-quarter pint of milk, in which one
tablespoonful of fecula has been diluted, cold. Set to boil and add
butter when dishing up.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
662—BISQUE D’ÉCREVISSES
(1) Cut into very small dice one oz. of carrot, one oz. of onion,
and two parsley stalks. Add a fragment of thyme and bay; brown this
_mirepoix_ with butter, in a sautépan; throw in fifteen crayfish for
“Bisque” (their average weight being about one and one-third oz.),
and toss them in the _mirepoix_ until they acquire a very red colour.
Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-quarter pint
of white wine, season with a large pinch of salt and a pinch of ground
pepper, and set to reduce.
This done, moisten with one-quarter pint of white consommé and leave to
cook for ten minutes.
Also cook three oz. of rice in one and one-half pints of white consommé.
(2) Shell the crayfishes’ tails and put them aside; also reserve eight
carapaces. Drain the crayfishes of all their cooking-liquor; finely
pound them and their remains and the _mirepoix_. Add the rice, properly
cooked, and the cooking-liquor of the crayfish, and rub through a
sieve, first, and then through tammy.
Add to the resulting purée one-half pint of white consommé, set to
boil, wielding a whisk the while, pass through a strainer, and then
keep the preparation in a _bain-marie_, taking care to place a few
lumps of butter on its surface lest a skin should form while the bisque
is waiting to be served.
Finish the preparation when dishing up with two and one-half oz. of
butter, three tablespoonfuls of excellent thick cream, and a very
little cayenne.
Garnish with the crayfish tails cut into dice, and the eight carapaces
stuffed with a fish forcemeat with cream and poached seven or eight
minutes previously.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
663—BISQUE DE HOMARD
After substituting for the crayfish a raw lobster weighing three lbs.,
cut into small sections, the procedure is the same as that of No. 662.
It is only necessary, therefore, to refer to that recipe for all
particulars relating to preparation and quantities.
Garnish with the meat taken from the tail; this should have been kept
aside and cut into small dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
664—BISQUE DE CREVETTES
The mode of procedure for this bisque, the _mirepoix_, the thickening
ingredients, the moistening, and the finishing of the soup are
identical with those of No. 662.
All that is needed, therefore, is to substitute for the crayfish
two lbs. of raw shrimps.
Instead of using ordinary butter in finishing this bisque, use
three oz. of shrimp butter. Garnish with twenty-five reserved tails,
these being shelled and trimmed.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
665—COULIS DE GIBIER, otherwise AU CHASSEUR
Prepare six oz. of the meat of a wild rabbit, six oz. of that of a
partridge, and six oz. of that of a pheasant. These meats should be
roasted and their roast-cases swilled with a liqueur-glass of burnt
brandy. The resulting gravy should be added to the soup.
Now finely pound these meats together with one-half pint of cooked
and drained lentils. When the whole has become a smooth purée add the
cooking-liquor of the lentils and the swillings referred to above and
rub through tammy.
Finish the cullis with the necessary quantity of consommé, heat it, and
pass it through a strainer. Add butter at the last moment and season
moderately.
Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of small, very fresh mushrooms; these
to be finely minced and tossed in butter.
666—COULIS DE GRIVES AU PAIN NOIR, otherwise A L’ARDENNAISE
Fry four fine thrushes in butter and complete their cooking in one pint
of feathered game consommé containing five oz. of rye-bread dice fried
in butter. These dice constitute in this case the thickening element of
the soup. Remove and put aside the thrushes’ fillets, finely pound the
carcasses together with two juniper-berries, add the leason of bread
dice, and rub through tammy.
Add to the resulting purée one-quarter pint of feathered-game consommé,
set to boil, and pass through a strainer. Finish the cullis with two
and one-half oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into thin slices or into a
_julienne_.
667—COULIS DE GROUSE OU DE GELINOTTE A L’ANCIENNE
Proceed as in No. 666 in so far as the preparatory details and the
quantities are concerned, but take note of the following changes in
other directions:—
(1) Substitute for the thrushes two grouse or two hazel-hens, taking
care to discard the legs and the carcasses.
(2) Use ordinary bread dice instead of those of rye-bread.
668—COULIS DE LAPEREAU AU CURRIE
Cut the legs of a young wild rabbit into small pieces, stiffen these in
butter, and put them into the stewpan with a few roundels of carrot and
onion, one small faggot of parsley and celery, and one quart of white
consommé. Set to cook gently.
Also lightly brown in butter two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion,
besprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of fecula and a sufficient
quantity of curry, moisten with the strained cooking-liquor of the
pieces of rabbit, bring to the boil, and set to simmer for seven or
eight minutes. Rub through tammy and then despumate for twenty minutes,
adding from time to time one or two tablespoonfuls of consommé with the
view of promoting the clarification of the cullis. When about to serve
finish the latter with three or four tablespoonfuls of cream.
Garnish with eighteen very small slices taken from the pieces of rabbit
and two oz. of rice à l’Indienne, serving the latter separately.
669—COULIS DE PERDREAU A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS, otherwise A LA MANCELLE
Split the shells of fifteen fine chestnuts, put them in a stewpan with
water, boil them for five minutes, and shell and peel them quickly
while they are still very hot. Then cook them gently in one-half pint
of white consommé with one-third of a stick of celery, minced, and one
piece of loaf-sugar.
_Poële_ a partridge, remove the fillets for the purpose of garnish,
bone the rest, and pound it finely together with the carcass and
the _poëling_ liquor. Add the chestnuts, pound the whole, and add
some consommé to the resulting purée with the object of facilitating
the rubbing through tammy. This done, add to the preparation about
one-quarter pint of very clear game stock, bring the whole to the boil,
pass it through a strainer, and finish the cullis, when dishing up,
with a very little cayenne and one and one-half oz. of butter.
Garnish with the fillets of partridge cut into a small _julienne_.
670—COULIS DE VOLAILLE, otherwise A LA REINE
Poach in one quart of white consommé a cleaned fowl weighing about
three lbs. and two oz. of rice previously _blanched_. Having cooked
the fowl, withdraw it, raise its fillets, and put them aside. Bone
the remainder and finely pound the meat. When the latter is a smooth
paste mix therewith the rice, which should be very well cooked, add the
necessary amount of white consommé to the purée, and rub through tammy.
Bring the cullis to the boil and pass it through a fine strainer.
Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason composed of the
yolks of three eggs, one-sixth pint of cream, and three oz. of butter.
Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into small, regular dice.
This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream.
671—VELOUTÉ AGNÈS SOREL
(1) Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, keeping it
somewhat thin.
(2) Clean, wash, peel, and quickly pound eight oz. of very fresh
mushrooms, newly gathered if possible.
Rub through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée of raw mushrooms
to the velouté. Bring the whole to the boil once or twice, and this
done rub through tammy immediately. Finish with the leason and add
butter when dishing up.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of raw mushrooms tossed
in butter, one tablespoonful of chicken fillets, and as much salted
tongue, both of which should also be cut in _julienne-fashion_.
N.B.—With regard to veloutés I remind the reader that the velouté
of ordinary consistence represents one-half of the soup, the purée
typifying the latter represents one-quarter, while the consommé
required to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence should
be in the proportion of the remaining quarter.
The leason, per quart of the soup, should consist of the yolks of three
eggs and one-sixth pint of cream, while the average quantity of butter
should measure about two and one-half oz. (see No. 242).
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
672—VELOUTÉ DE BLANCHAILLE AU CURRIE
Bear in mind that this soup ought to be made and served within the
space of twenty minutes, for if it be left to stand for however short a
time, it will most probably turn, in spite of every possible precaution.
Cook three oz. of finely chopped onion in butter without colouration,
besprinkle with one-half coffeespoonful of curry, moisten with one and
one-half pints of boiling water, add a faggot, a pinch of salt, a few
sprigs of saffron (or a little of it powdered), and two oz. of Viennese
bread.
Set to boil for ten minutes; this done add three-quarters lb. of very
fresh Blanchailles, and cook over a brisk fire.
Rub through a hair-sieve, finish by means of a leason consisting of the
yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream, and pour the whole
into the soup-tureen over some dried slices of bread (buttered), over
rice, or over some previously poached vermicelli. Serve at once.
673—VELOUTÉ CARMÉLITE
Prepare one and one-half pints of fish velouté, stew four oz. of
fillets of sole and the same quantity of fillets of whiting in one and
one-half oz. of butter and lemon juice. Pound the fish, add it to the
velouté, and rub through tammy.
Add the necessary quantity of consommé, heat the velouté, and finish
it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of poached fillets of
sole and twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
674—VELOUTÉ AUX CAROTTES, otherwise NIVERNAISE
Cut into thin slices one lb. of the red part only of carrots, season
with a pinch of table-salt and twice that amount of castor-sugar, and
stew in one oz. of butter.
Add one pint of ordinary thin velouté and let the cooking of the
carrots be completed therein. Rub through tammy, finish with one-half
pint of white consommé, set to boil, and complete the preparation, when
dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a fine _brunoise_ of
the red part of carrots.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
675—VELOUTÉ COMTESSE
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, parboil one and one-half lbs. of
white asparagus, and put them into the velouté. Complete the cooking
gently. Rub through tammy, add one-half pint of white consommé, heat,
and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of a lettuce _chiffonade_ and twelve
small white asparagus-heads wherefrom all leaves have been removed.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
676—VELOUTÉ AU CONCOMBRES, otherwise DANOISE
Peel, remove the seeds from, mince, and stew in butter one lb. of
parboil cucumber. Add this to one pint of ordinary velouté, which
should have been prepared at the same time, and complete the cooking
quickly. Rub through tammy, add the necessary quantity of white
consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a
leason and butter in the usual quantities.
Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
677—VELOUTÉ CRESSONIÈRE
After having slightly parboiled them, stew one lb. of very fresh
watercress leaves in one and one-half oz. of butter, add them to one
pint of ordinary velouté. Set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, rub
through tammy, add one and one-half pints of ordinary white consommé,
heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and
butter.
Garnish with one oz. of watercress leaves parboiled for three minutes.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
678—VELOUTÉ DAME-BLANCHE
Prepare one and one-half pints of clear poultry velouté. Also finely
pound ten or twelve well-washed sweet almonds, moisten them, little by
little, with one-sixth pint of fresh water, and rub through a strong
towel, twisting the latter to assist the process.
Add this almond milk to the velouté, and finish the latter, when
dishing up, with the leason and butter.
Garnish with one tablespoonful of the white of a chicken cut into small
dice, and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat (in the shape of
pearls) poached just before dishing up.
679—VELOUTÉ D’ARTOIS
Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, and mix therewith one-half pint
of a purée of haricot beans. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of
white consommé; heat, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with the
leason and butter.
Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of an ordinary _julienne_ and a pinch
of chervil _pluches_.
This soup may also be prepared as a cream.
680—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS
Prepare a thin panada with one pint of boiled milk and two and
one-half oz. of crumbled bread. Season with a pinch of salt and a very
small quantity of mignonette. Also stew gently, in one oz. of butter,
two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, two and one-half oz. of fillets of
smelt, one-half lb. of fillets of sole, or the meat of a dory, and the
juice of the quarter of a lemon.
Add the fish, stewed in butter and pounded, to the panada, together
with one-half pint of ordinary thin velouté.
Rub through tammy; heat; season with a very little cayenne, and finish
the whole, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and one and
one-half oz. of butter.
N.B.—1. In view of the decided flavour of the smelt, and the really
disagreeable taste it imparts to a preparation which contains overmuch
of it, its flesh should never exceed the proportion of one-third of the
required quantity of fish. The remaining two-thirds should be supplied
by a fish of neutral flavour, such as the sole or dory, both of which
are admirably suited to this purpose.
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