A guide to modern cookery by A. Escoffier

4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish.

5756 words  |  Chapter 111

618—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CAILLES Use roast quails in the proportion of two for each pint of consommé; the fillets may be reserved for a cold entrée. 619—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE CÉLERI It is impossible to state exactly how much celery should be used, the quantity being entirely subject to the more or less decided flavour of the vegetables at one’s disposal. Experience alone can guide the operator in this matter. 620—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE MORILLES Allow five oz. of small fresh morels, or three oz. of dry ones per quart of the consommé. Pound them and mix them with the clarification. 621—CONSOMMÉ A L’ESSENCE DE TRUFFLE Use fresh truffles only in this case. Allow two oz. of peelings and trimmings per quart of the consommé; pound them and mix them with the clarification. 622—CONSOMMÉ AU FUMET DE PERDREAU Proceed as in No. 618; allow one partridge for each quart of the consommé. 623—CONSOMMÉ AUX PAILLETTES D’OR Take a very superior chicken consommé; add thereto, per quart, a glass of excellent liqueur brandy, and, in the same proportion, one gold-leaf cut into small spangles. 624—CONSOMMÉ AUX PIMENTS DOUX Add one-half oz. of fresh or preserved capsicum to every quart of the consommé. The product should be pounded and mixed with the clarification. 625—CONSOMMÉ A LA MADRILÈNE Add four oz. of raw tomato and one oz. of capsicum to the consommé per every quart of the latter. Mix these ingredients with the clarification, and serve as cold as possible. 626—CONSOMMÉ A LA PORTUGAISE Add to the consommé for every quart one-third pint of raw tomato purée and one-sixth pint of tomato juice. Cook with lid on for twenty minutes, taking care not to let it reach the boil; strain through muslin, pressing lightly the while, and season moderately with cayenne. Set to cool, and serve very cold. 627—CONSOMMÉS AUX VINS By adding a port wine glass full of the chosen wine to one pint of excellent cold chicken consommé, the following series of consommés may be made:— Consommé au vin de Chypre. Consommé au vin de Madère. Consommé au vin de Malvoisie. Consommé au vin de Marsala. Consommé au vin de Porto doré. Consommé au vin de Porto rose. Consommé au vin de Samos. Consommé au vin de Zucco. 628—GELEE AUX POMMES D’AMOUR Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” and use that variety of small tomatoes which, in Provence, are called “Pommes d’amour.” 629—GELEE DE VOLAILLE A LA NAPOLITAINE Proceed as for the “Consommé Portugaise,” but finish it with one port wine-glassful of port or old Marsala per quart. THICK SOUPS In Part I., Chapter I., of this work I pointed out what thick soups consist of. I likewise touched upon the general rules which should be observed in the preparation of each class of these soups, and showed how most of them could, if necessary, be converted into and served as cullises, purées, bisques, veloutés, or creams. The principles governing these alterations are very simple, and after a moment’s reflection the operator will thoroughly grasp their import. Be this as it may, the reader will find the necessary directions at the end of each recipe that admits of various methods of preparation. With regard to those recipes which are not followed by any directions of the sort referred to, and which I simply class under the name of Potages, these are unalterable preparations which may only be served in accordance with the directions given. This being clear, the reader will understand that I have refrained from repeating the quantities of butter, cream, thickening ingredients, &c., in each recipe. These particulars having been given in Part I., it will be necessary to refer to that part of the book for them. 630—PURÉE DE CAROTTES, otherwise CRÉCY Cut one lb. of the red part only of carrots into fine slices; chop one onion, and put the whole into a stewpan with a sprig of thyme and two oz. of butter. Stew gently for twenty minutes, and season with a pinch of salt and sugar. Add the thickening ingredient, _i.e._, either two oz. of rice or five and one-half oz. of bread dice fried in butter; also add one and one-half pints of white consommé, and set to cook very gently. Rub through tammy, test the consistence, despumate, and add butter when dishing up. Ordinary garnish: small bread dice fried in butter. Occasional garnish: poached Japanese pearls in the proportion of two tablespoonfuls per quart of the soup. This soup may also be prepared as a cream or a velouté à la Nivernaise (see No. 674). 631—PURÉE DE CAROTTES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise VELOURS Make one pint of carrot purée as above, and poach two tablespoonfuls of tapioca in a pint of white consommé. When about to serve, and after having buttered the purée of carrots, mix therewith the prepared tapioca. 632—PURÉE DE CÉLERI-RAVE Finely mince one lb. of celeriac; _blanch_ it; thoroughly drain it, and stew it gently in one oz. of butter. Moisten with one quart of white consommé; add two medium-sized potatoes, minced, and set to cook gently. Rub through tammy; despumate the purée gently for half an hour, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish: small bread dice fried in butter. 633—PURÉE DE CHOUX DE BRUXELLES, otherwise FLAMANDE Parboil and drain one lb. of very fresh Brussels sprouts. Set them to stew gently in three oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of white consommé; for the leason add two medium-sized quartered potatoes, and complete the cooking. Rub the whole through tammy, finish the purée with milk, despumate it in the usual way, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter. 634—PURÉE DE CHOUX-FLEURS, otherwise DUBARRY Parboil one lb. of cauliflower divided into bunches. Drain them and put them in a saucepan with one pint of boiled milk and two medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, finish with boiled milk, despumate, and add butter. Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream with small pieces of cauliflower as garnish. 635—PURÉE DE CROSNES, otherwise JAPONAISE Parboil and drain one lb. of well-cleaned stachys. Stew them in one oz. of butter; moisten with one pint of boiled milk or white consommé, according as to whether the purée is to be a Lenten one or not; add two medium-sized minced potatoes, and complete the cooking gently. Rub through tammy, test the consistence, and add, if necessary, either a little boiled milk or some consommé; despumate, and add butter. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé or milk. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 636—PURÉE DE FLAGEOLETS, otherwise MUSARD Cook together with the ordinary aromatic garnish three-quarters pint of dry flageolets, or, if they are in season, use twice that quantity of fresh ones. Drain, pound, and moisten the purée with a little of the cooking-liquor of the flageolets, rub through tammy, and rectify the consistence with some white consommé and the necessary quantity of boiled milk. Despumate, and butter it when about to dish up. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream, but for either of the latter it is preferable to use fresh flageolets, the garnish for both consisting of very small flageolets and chervil _pluches_. 637—PURÉE DE HARICOTS BLANCS, otherwise SOISSONNAISE Cook in the usual way, that is to say, with carrots, a faggot, and one onion stuck with a clove, a good half-pint of dry haricot beans. Crush all these, moisten with a few tablespoonfuls of their cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy. Rectify the consistence of the purée with the necessary quantity of white consommé and milk, despumate, add butter when about to dish up, and garnish with small bread dice. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 638—PURÉE DE HARICOTS VERTS, otherwise CORMEILLES Parboil one and one-half lbs. of French beans and keep them very green. After having well drained them, stew them for ten or twelve minutes in one oz. of butter, moisten with one pint of white consommé, and add two medium-sized minced potatoes for the thickening. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, rectify the consistence of the purée with a little boiled milk, despumate, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of cooked French beans cut into narrow lozenges. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 639—PURÉE DE HARICOTS ROUGES, otherwise CONDÉ Put a heaped pint of red beans into cold water, set to boil slowly, skim, add three oz. of carrots, one small faggot, one onion stuck with a clove, and a bottleful of boiling red wine. Set to cook gently. Drain the beans and crush them in a mortar. Moisten the purée with a few tablespoonfuls of the cooking-liquor of the beans, rub through tammy, rectify the consistence of the purée with some white consommé, follow the procedure of all purées, and add butter when about to serve. Garnish with bread dice fried in butter. 640—PURÉE DE LENTILLES, otherwise CONTI Soak three-quarters of a pint of lentils in lukewarm water for two hours. Put them in a stewpan with two oz. of very lean breast of bacon, _blanched_, cooled, and cut into dice, and one quart of white consommé. Set to boil, skim, add three oz. of carrots, one onion, and one faggot, and cook very gently. Drain the lentils, pound them together with the bacon, moisten the purée with a few tablespoonfuls of cooking-liquor, and rub through tammy. Rectify the consistence with some reserved cooking-liquor, then treat the purée in the usual way and add butter when about to serve. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of bread dice fried in butter and a pinch of chervil _pluches_. N.B.—It should be borne in mind that the aromatic garnish used in cooking dry vegetables of what kind soever should be withdrawn before pounding the latter, that they may be rubbed through tammy. 641—PURÉE DE NAVETS, otherwise FRENEUSE Finely mince one lb. of very firm turnips, parboil, drain, and stew them in one and one-half oz. of butter, the necessary salt, and one-half oz. of sugar, until they are almost completely cooked. Moisten with one-half pint of white consommé, and complete the cooking. Meantime, cook two medium-sized, peeled and quartered potatoes in some consommé. Now put the turnips and the potato into the same stewpan; crush them, and rub them through tammy. Bring the purée to the proper consistence by means of boiled milk, and finish it in the usual way. Garnish with some small bread dice fried in butter. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 642—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE VERMICELLE A LA CRÈME Sprinkle three oz. of well-separated vermicelli into one pint of boiling milk or white consommé (according as to whether the preparation be a Lenten one or not). Let the vermicelli poach gently for twenty-five minutes, and then add four tablespoonfuls of sorrel cooked in butter. Rub the whole through tammy; finish the purée with sufficient milk or thin cream; heat until the boil is reached, and, when about to serve, complete by means of a leason composed of the yolks of two eggs and one-quarter pint of very fresh cream. For the garnish, refer to the remarks under No. 646. 643—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SAGOU A LA CRÈME Proceed exactly as directed in the preceding recipe; but instead of vermicelli use three oz. of sago. Allow the usual time for cooking, and add the same quantity of sorrel cooked in butter. Use the same quantities of milk or consommé in order to bring the purée to the proper consistence, and make use of a precisely similar leason. 644—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE SEMOULE A LA CRÈME The same as the above, but use three oz. of semolina. All other particulars remain the same. 645—PURÉE D’OSEILLE ET DE TAPIOCA A LA CRÈME Procedure like that of No. 642, using instead of the vermicelli three oz. of tapioca. 646—REMARKS RELATIVE TO THE POSSIBLE VARIATIONS OF THE FOUR PRECEDING RECIPES A large variety of this kind of soups may be prepared by using the quantity prescribed of salep, buckwheat, oatmeal, barley-meal, &c. These soups derive a particular and agreeable flavour from their cohering element. The chief point to be remembered in their preparation is their consistence, which should be that of a thin cream. When too thick, these soups are pasty and disagreeable; when too thin, they are insipid; hence the desirability of aiming at a happy medium. Their garnish is exceedingly variable, the more preferable forms being small bread dice fried in clarified butter, pressed; peeled tomatoes cut into dice and tossed in butter; small _printaniers_, _brunoises_, _juliennes_, _paysannes_, or well-poached rice. Thus, from the typical recipe of these soups, a whole series may be prepared, which need not be gone into separately here. 647—PURÉE DE POIS AUX CROÛTONS Wash three-quarters of a pint of split peas in cold water and put them into a stewpan with one quart of cold water, a little salt, and one-half lb. of raw ham. Set to boil, skim, and add two oz. of _mirepoix_, the minced green leaves of three leeks, a fragment of thyme and bay, salt, and one-half oz. of sugar. Set to cook very gently. Rub through tammy, bring the purée to the proper consistence by means of white consommé, despumate it sufficiently, and add butter to it when dishing up. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter. 648—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS, otherwise SAINT-GERMAIN The two following methods may be employed, viz.:— (1) Cook quickly one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas, just shelled, in boiling, salted water. Drain them, pound them in a mortar, moisten the purée with one pint of white consommé, and rub it through tammy. Bring it to the proper degree of heat, and add butter when about to serve. Prepared in this way, the purée should be of a perfect shade. (2) Stew one and one-quarter pints of fresh peas in one and one-half oz. of butter, a little lettuce _chiffonade_, one and one-half oz. of the green part of leeks, a pinch of chervil, a little salt and sugar, and one-seventh pint of water. Pound the peas as soon as they are cooked, moisten the purée with one pint of white consommé, and rub through tammy. Bring the preparation to the proper degree of heat and add butter at the last moment. Treated thus, the purée will be of a fainter shade than the preceding one, but its flavour will be more delicate. Garnish, in both cases, with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of very green, fine peas, and some chervil _pluches_. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 649—PURÉE DE POIS FRAIS A LA MENTHE Make the purée according to one of the above-mentioned methods, and add to the peas, while cooking, a faggot consisting of three little sprigs of fresh mint. Finish with consommé, and add butter in the usual way. Garnish with nice peas, as above, and some very tender mint-leaves, chopped, instead of the chervil _pluches_. _Remarks Relative to those Soups which have a Purée of Peas for Base._—A large number of soups may be made from purées of fresh peas; among others I may mention the following, with brief directions as to their constituents and garnish, viz.:— 650—POTAGE AMBASSADEURS Purée of fresh peas, quite ready for soup; finish with a small tablespoonful of sorrel and lettuce _chiffonade_, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice per quart of purée. 651—POTAGE CAMELIA Prepare this after the recipe of potage Lamballe; finish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of the white of a leek and one tablespoonful of white chicken meat, cut _julienne-fashion_, per quart of the soup. 652—POTAGE FONTANGES Purée of fresh peas ready for soup; add two tablespoonfuls of a _chiffonade_ of sorrel and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of the purée, and two tablespoonfuls of poached rice. 653—POTAGE LAMBALLE Half of this consists of a finished purée of peas, and the other half of tapioca poached in consommé as for the ordinary “potage au tapioca.” 654—POTAGE LONGCHAMPS This is the “potage Fontange,” kept somewhat clear, and with a garnish composed of one and one-half oz. of vermicelli, poached in consommé, and a pinch of chervil _pluches_ per quart of the soup. 655—POTAGE MARIGNY Proceed as for “potage Fontange,” and add a garnish of one tablespoonful of peas and one tablespoonful of fine French beans cut into lozenges. 656—POTAGE MARCILLY Half of this consists of a purée of peas and the other half of a purée of chicken. Prepare these purées in the usual way and mix them together when about to serve. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of Japanese pearls poached in consommé and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat, in the shape of pearls, per quart of the soup. 657—POTAGE SAINT-MARCEAU This is an ordinary purée of peas with butter, combined with two tablespoonfuls of a _julienne_ consisting of the white of a leek and some chervil _pluches_ per quart of the purée. This list could be considerably lengthened, but what there is of it amply suffices to show the great number of soups that may be obtained from the combination of other suitable products with the purée of peas and the modification of the garnish in each case. 658—PURÉE DE POMMES DE TERRE, otherwise PARMENTIER Finely mince the white of two medium-sized leeks, and fry them without colouration in one oz. of butter. Add three medium-sized peeled and quartered potatoes, one pint of white consommé, and cook quickly. The moment the potatoes seem soft to the touch crush them and rub them through tammy. Finish the purée with some boiled milk or thin cream, heat until the boil is reached, and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of small bread dice fried in butter and some chervil _pluches_. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 659—PURÉE DE TOMATES, otherwise PORTUGAISE Fry in one oz. of butter a somewhat finely-cut _mirepoix_ consisting of one oz. of breast of bacon cut into dice, one-third of a carrot, half an onion, a fragment of thyme and bay. Add to this fried _mirepoix_ eight medium-sized tomatoes, pressed and cut into pieces the size of a clove of garlic, a pinch of sugar, two and one-half oz. of rice, and one pint of white consommé. Set to cook gently, rub through tammy, and finish with the necessary quantity of consommé. When about to serve complete the purée by adding thereto, away from the fire, two oz. of butter. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of poached rice, each grain being separate, and the same quantity of peeled tomatoes cut into dice and briskly tossed in butter. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 660—PURÉE DE TOMATES AU TAPIOCA, otherwise WALDÈZE Prepare one and one-half pints of tapioca in white consommé, and keep it a little lighter than ordinary tapioca. Also press, peel, and cut into dice the pulp of three medium-sized, very red tomatoes; poach these dice in some consommé and mix them with the tapioca. Or, failing fresh tomatoes, add to the tapioca two tablespoonfuls of concentrated tomato purée diluted in a bowl with some white consommé. Send two oz. of grated cheese to the table separately. 661—PURÉE DE TOPINAMBOUR, otherwise PALESTINE Finely mince two lbs. of Jerusalem artichokes and stew them in one oz. of butter. Add five torrefied and crushed filberts, moistened with one pint of white consommé, and set to cook gently. Rub through tammy; finish the purée with one-quarter pint of milk, in which one tablespoonful of fecula has been diluted, cold. Set to boil and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 662—BISQUE D’ÉCREVISSES (1) Cut into very small dice one oz. of carrot, one oz. of onion, and two parsley stalks. Add a fragment of thyme and bay; brown this _mirepoix_ with butter, in a sautépan; throw in fifteen crayfish for “Bisque” (their average weight being about one and one-third oz.), and toss them in the _mirepoix_ until they acquire a very red colour. Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of burnt brandy and one-quarter pint of white wine, season with a large pinch of salt and a pinch of ground pepper, and set to reduce. This done, moisten with one-quarter pint of white consommé and leave to cook for ten minutes. Also cook three oz. of rice in one and one-half pints of white consommé. (2) Shell the crayfishes’ tails and put them aside; also reserve eight carapaces. Drain the crayfishes of all their cooking-liquor; finely pound them and their remains and the _mirepoix_. Add the rice, properly cooked, and the cooking-liquor of the crayfish, and rub through a sieve, first, and then through tammy. Add to the resulting purée one-half pint of white consommé, set to boil, wielding a whisk the while, pass through a strainer, and then keep the preparation in a _bain-marie_, taking care to place a few lumps of butter on its surface lest a skin should form while the bisque is waiting to be served. Finish the preparation when dishing up with two and one-half oz. of butter, three tablespoonfuls of excellent thick cream, and a very little cayenne. Garnish with the crayfish tails cut into dice, and the eight carapaces stuffed with a fish forcemeat with cream and poached seven or eight minutes previously. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 663—BISQUE DE HOMARD After substituting for the crayfish a raw lobster weighing three lbs., cut into small sections, the procedure is the same as that of No. 662. It is only necessary, therefore, to refer to that recipe for all particulars relating to preparation and quantities. Garnish with the meat taken from the tail; this should have been kept aside and cut into small dice. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 664—BISQUE DE CREVETTES The mode of procedure for this bisque, the _mirepoix_, the thickening ingredients, the moistening, and the finishing of the soup are identical with those of No. 662. All that is needed, therefore, is to substitute for the crayfish two lbs. of raw shrimps. Instead of using ordinary butter in finishing this bisque, use three oz. of shrimp butter. Garnish with twenty-five reserved tails, these being shelled and trimmed. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 665—COULIS DE GIBIER, otherwise AU CHASSEUR Prepare six oz. of the meat of a wild rabbit, six oz. of that of a partridge, and six oz. of that of a pheasant. These meats should be roasted and their roast-cases swilled with a liqueur-glass of burnt brandy. The resulting gravy should be added to the soup. Now finely pound these meats together with one-half pint of cooked and drained lentils. When the whole has become a smooth purée add the cooking-liquor of the lentils and the swillings referred to above and rub through tammy. Finish the cullis with the necessary quantity of consommé, heat it, and pass it through a strainer. Add butter at the last moment and season moderately. Garnish with three tablespoonfuls of small, very fresh mushrooms; these to be finely minced and tossed in butter. 666—COULIS DE GRIVES AU PAIN NOIR, otherwise A L’ARDENNAISE Fry four fine thrushes in butter and complete their cooking in one pint of feathered game consommé containing five oz. of rye-bread dice fried in butter. These dice constitute in this case the thickening element of the soup. Remove and put aside the thrushes’ fillets, finely pound the carcasses together with two juniper-berries, add the leason of bread dice, and rub through tammy. Add to the resulting purée one-quarter pint of feathered-game consommé, set to boil, and pass through a strainer. Finish the cullis with two and one-half oz. of butter and four tablespoonfuls of cream. Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into thin slices or into a _julienne_. 667—COULIS DE GROUSE OU DE GELINOTTE A L’ANCIENNE Proceed as in No. 666 in so far as the preparatory details and the quantities are concerned, but take note of the following changes in other directions:— (1) Substitute for the thrushes two grouse or two hazel-hens, taking care to discard the legs and the carcasses. (2) Use ordinary bread dice instead of those of rye-bread. 668—COULIS DE LAPEREAU AU CURRIE Cut the legs of a young wild rabbit into small pieces, stiffen these in butter, and put them into the stewpan with a few roundels of carrot and onion, one small faggot of parsley and celery, and one quart of white consommé. Set to cook gently. Also lightly brown in butter two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, besprinkle with one-half tablespoonful of fecula and a sufficient quantity of curry, moisten with the strained cooking-liquor of the pieces of rabbit, bring to the boil, and set to simmer for seven or eight minutes. Rub through tammy and then despumate for twenty minutes, adding from time to time one or two tablespoonfuls of consommé with the view of promoting the clarification of the cullis. When about to serve finish the latter with three or four tablespoonfuls of cream. Garnish with eighteen very small slices taken from the pieces of rabbit and two oz. of rice à l’Indienne, serving the latter separately. 669—COULIS DE PERDREAU A LA PURÉE DE MARRONS, otherwise A LA MANCELLE Split the shells of fifteen fine chestnuts, put them in a stewpan with water, boil them for five minutes, and shell and peel them quickly while they are still very hot. Then cook them gently in one-half pint of white consommé with one-third of a stick of celery, minced, and one piece of loaf-sugar. _Poële_ a partridge, remove the fillets for the purpose of garnish, bone the rest, and pound it finely together with the carcass and the _poëling_ liquor. Add the chestnuts, pound the whole, and add some consommé to the resulting purée with the object of facilitating the rubbing through tammy. This done, add to the preparation about one-quarter pint of very clear game stock, bring the whole to the boil, pass it through a strainer, and finish the cullis, when dishing up, with a very little cayenne and one and one-half oz. of butter. Garnish with the fillets of partridge cut into a small _julienne_. 670—COULIS DE VOLAILLE, otherwise A LA REINE Poach in one quart of white consommé a cleaned fowl weighing about three lbs. and two oz. of rice previously _blanched_. Having cooked the fowl, withdraw it, raise its fillets, and put them aside. Bone the remainder and finely pound the meat. When the latter is a smooth paste mix therewith the rice, which should be very well cooked, add the necessary amount of white consommé to the purée, and rub through tammy. Bring the cullis to the boil and pass it through a fine strainer. Finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason composed of the yolks of three eggs, one-sixth pint of cream, and three oz. of butter. Garnish with the reserved fillets cut into small, regular dice. This soup may also be prepared as a velouté or a cream. 671—VELOUTÉ AGNÈS SOREL (1) Prepare one and one-half pints of poultry velouté, keeping it somewhat thin. (2) Clean, wash, peel, and quickly pound eight oz. of very fresh mushrooms, newly gathered if possible. Rub through a fine sieve, and add the resulting purée of raw mushrooms to the velouté. Bring the whole to the boil once or twice, and this done rub through tammy immediately. Finish with the leason and add butter when dishing up. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of raw mushrooms tossed in butter, one tablespoonful of chicken fillets, and as much salted tongue, both of which should also be cut in _julienne-fashion_. N.B.—With regard to veloutés I remind the reader that the velouté of ordinary consistence represents one-half of the soup, the purée typifying the latter represents one-quarter, while the consommé required to bring the soup to the correct degree of consistence should be in the proportion of the remaining quarter. The leason, per quart of the soup, should consist of the yolks of three eggs and one-sixth pint of cream, while the average quantity of butter should measure about two and one-half oz. (see No. 242). This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 672—VELOUTÉ DE BLANCHAILLE AU CURRIE Bear in mind that this soup ought to be made and served within the space of twenty minutes, for if it be left to stand for however short a time, it will most probably turn, in spite of every possible precaution. Cook three oz. of finely chopped onion in butter without colouration, besprinkle with one-half coffeespoonful of curry, moisten with one and one-half pints of boiling water, add a faggot, a pinch of salt, a few sprigs of saffron (or a little of it powdered), and two oz. of Viennese bread. Set to boil for ten minutes; this done add three-quarters lb. of very fresh Blanchailles, and cook over a brisk fire. Rub through a hair-sieve, finish by means of a leason consisting of the yolks of three eggs and one-fifth pint of cream, and pour the whole into the soup-tureen over some dried slices of bread (buttered), over rice, or over some previously poached vermicelli. Serve at once. 673—VELOUTÉ CARMÉLITE Prepare one and one-half pints of fish velouté, stew four oz. of fillets of sole and the same quantity of fillets of whiting in one and one-half oz. of butter and lemon juice. Pound the fish, add it to the velouté, and rub through tammy. Add the necessary quantity of consommé, heat the velouté, and finish it, when about to serve, with a leason and butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a _julienne_ of poached fillets of sole and twelve small quenelles of smelt forcemeat. This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 674—VELOUTÉ AUX CAROTTES, otherwise NIVERNAISE Cut into thin slices one lb. of the red part only of carrots, season with a pinch of table-salt and twice that amount of castor-sugar, and stew in one oz. of butter. Add one pint of ordinary thin velouté and let the cooking of the carrots be completed therein. Rub through tammy, finish with one-half pint of white consommé, set to boil, and complete the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter. Garnish with one and one-half tablespoonfuls of a fine _brunoise_ of the red part of carrots. This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 675—VELOUTÉ COMTESSE Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, parboil one and one-half lbs. of white asparagus, and put them into the velouté. Complete the cooking gently. Rub through tammy, add one-half pint of white consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with the leason and butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of a lettuce _chiffonade_ and twelve small white asparagus-heads wherefrom all leaves have been removed. This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 676—VELOUTÉ AU CONCOMBRES, otherwise DANOISE Peel, remove the seeds from, mince, and stew in butter one lb. of parboil cucumber. Add this to one pint of ordinary velouté, which should have been prepared at the same time, and complete the cooking quickly. Rub through tammy, add the necessary quantity of white consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and butter in the usual quantities. Garnish with small bread dice fried in butter. This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 677—VELOUTÉ CRESSONIÈRE After having slightly parboiled them, stew one lb. of very fresh watercress leaves in one and one-half oz. of butter, add them to one pint of ordinary velouté. Set to simmer for seven or eight minutes, rub through tammy, add one and one-half pints of ordinary white consommé, heat, and finish the preparation, when dishing up, with a leason and butter. Garnish with one oz. of watercress leaves parboiled for three minutes. This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 678—VELOUTÉ DAME-BLANCHE Prepare one and one-half pints of clear poultry velouté. Also finely pound ten or twelve well-washed sweet almonds, moisten them, little by little, with one-sixth pint of fresh water, and rub through a strong towel, twisting the latter to assist the process. Add this almond milk to the velouté, and finish the latter, when dishing up, with the leason and butter. Garnish with one tablespoonful of the white of a chicken cut into small dice, and twelve small quenelles of chicken forcemeat (in the shape of pearls) poached just before dishing up. 679—VELOUTÉ D’ARTOIS Prepare one pint of ordinary velouté, and mix therewith one-half pint of a purée of haricot beans. Rub through tammy; add one-half pint of white consommé; heat, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with the leason and butter. Garnish with two tablespoonfuls of an ordinary _julienne_ and a pinch of chervil _pluches_. This soup may also be prepared as a cream. 680—VELOUTÉ D’ÉPERLANS Prepare a thin panada with one pint of boiled milk and two and one-half oz. of crumbled bread. Season with a pinch of salt and a very small quantity of mignonette. Also stew gently, in one oz. of butter, two tablespoonfuls of chopped onion, two and one-half oz. of fillets of smelt, one-half lb. of fillets of sole, or the meat of a dory, and the juice of the quarter of a lemon. Add the fish, stewed in butter and pounded, to the panada, together with one-half pint of ordinary thin velouté. Rub through tammy; heat; season with a very little cayenne, and finish the whole, when dishing up, with an ordinary leason and one and one-half oz. of butter. N.B.—1. In view of the decided flavour of the smelt, and the really disagreeable taste it imparts to a preparation which contains overmuch of it, its flesh should never exceed the proportion of one-third of the required quantity of fish. The remaining two-thirds should be supplied by a fish of neutral flavour, such as the sole or dory, both of which are admirably suited to this purpose.

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. PART I 3. CHAPTER I PAGE 4. CHAPTER II 5. CHAPTER III 6. CHAPTER IV 7. CHAPTER V 8. CHAPTER VI 9. CHAPTER VII 10. CHAPTER VIII 11. CHAPTER IX 12. CHAPTER X 13. PART II 14. CHAPTER XI PAGE 15. CHAPTER XII 16. CHAPTER XIII 17. CHAPTER XIV 18. CHAPTER XV 19. CHAPTER XVI 20. CHAPTER XVII 21. CHAPTER XVIII 22. CHAPTER XIX 23. CHAPTER XX 24. CHAPTER XXI 25. CHAPTER XXII 26. CHAPTER XXIII 27. PART I 28. CHAPTER I 29. 2. The brown stock or “_estouffade_,” game stocks, the bases of 30. 5. The various essences of poultry, game, fish, &c., the complements 31. 7. The basic sauces: Espagnole, Velouté, Béchamel, Tomato, and 32. 8. The savoury jellies or aspics of old-fashioned cooking. 33. 6. The various garnishes for soups, for relevés, for entrées, &c. 34. CHAPTER II 35. 2. Be scrupulously careful of the roux, however it may be made. By 36. CHAPTER III 37. 1. After having strained the braising sauce, completely remove its 38. 2. Strain the poëling stock, for ducklings or wild ducks, through 39. 1. Heat two oz. of butter in a stewpan, and insert one lb. of raw 40. 2. Pass the sauce through a strainer, pressing the aromatics; add a 41. 2. Substitute white fish jelly for poultry jelly. 42. 1. The Soubise is rather a cullis than a sauce; _i.e._, its consistence 43. 2. The admixture of Béchamel in Soubise is preferable to that of rice, 44. 3. In accordance with the uses to which it may be put, the Soubise 45. 2. The Villeroy Tomatée may be finally seasoned with curry or paprika, 46. 1. Add one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_ to one pint of thickened 47. 2. Almost entirely reduce one-quarter pint of fish _fumet_. To this 48. 3. Put the yolks of five eggs into a small stewpan and mix them with 49. CHAPTER IV 50. 1. If the sauce forms badly, or not at all, the reason is that the 51. 2. It is quite an error to suppose that it is necessary to work over 52. 3. It is a further error to suppose that the seasoning interferes with 53. 3. Excess of oil in proportion to the number of yolks, the 54. CHAPTER V 55. 2. That it be only added to the aspic when the latter is already 56. CHAPTER VI 57. 3. To apportion the wine and water in the ratio of two-thirds 58. 1. _Court-bouillon_ must always be prepared in advance for all fish, 59. 2. When a fish is of such a size as to need more than half an 60. 3. Fish, when whole, should be immersed in cold _court-bouillon_; when 61. 4. If fish be cooked in short liquor the aromatics are put under the 62. 5. _Court-bouillon_ for ordinary and spiny lobsters should always be at 63. 6. Fish which is to be served cold, also shell-fish, should cool in the 64. CHAPTER VII 65. 2. _Acid seasonings._—Plain vinegar, or the same aromatised with 66. 3. _Hot seasonings._—Peppercorns, ground or _concassed_ pepper, or 67. 4. _Saccharine seasonings._—Sugar and honey. 68. 2. _Hot condiments._—Mustard, gherkins, capers, English sauces, such 69. 3. _Fatty substances._—Most animal fats, butter, vegetable greases 70. 1. The quantity of spiced salt varies, a few grammes either way, 71. 2. According to the purpose of the forcemeat, and with a view to 72. 3. As a rule, forcemeat should always be rubbed through a sieve so as 73. 4. Whether the foie gras be added or not, chicken forcemeat may always 74. 1. _To roll quenelles_ it is necessary to keep the forcemeat somewhat 75. 2. _To Mould Quenelles with a Spoon._—This method may be applied to all 76. 3. _To Form Quenelles with a Piping-bag._—This process is especially 77. 4. _To Mould Forcemeat with the Fingers._—This excellent process is 78. CHAPTER VIII 79. CHAPTER IX 80. CHAPTER X 81. introduction into the vocabulary of cookery is comparatively recent, 82. 1. In all circumstances, _i.e._, whatever be the nature of the soup, 83. 2. The correct consistence of the soup is got by means of milk 84. 4. They are not buttered, but they are finished with one-fifth or 85. 1. If the liquor is required to be clear it need only be strained, over 86. 2. If, on the contrary, a sauce be required, the liquor should 87. 1. Too violent evaporation, which would reduce the liquor and disturb 88. 2. The running of a considerable risk of bursting the piece of poultry, 89. 1. All red meats containing a large quantity of juice should be 90. 2. In the case of white meats, whose cooking should be thorough, the 91. 3. With small game the fuel should be wood, but whatever fuel be used 92. 1. If the objects in question are _panés à l’anglaise_, _i.e._, dipped 93. 2. The same holds with objects treated with batter. Hence the absolute 94. 1. If too much sauce were used in proportion to the size of the object, 95. 2. If the sauce used were insufficient, it would be reduced before the 96. 3. The larger the piece, and consequently the longer it takes to cook, 97. 3. The blanching of certain other vegetables, which in reality 98. PART II 99. CHAPTER XI 100. CHAPTER XII 101. CHAPTER XIII 102. 2. Thick soups, which comprise the Purées, Veloutés, and Creams. 103. 3. Of a purée of asparagus-tops combined with a few cooked spinach 104. 4. Of a carrot purée (Purée Crécy). 105. 2. Cut six rectangles out of lettuce leaves; spread a thin layer of 106. 3. Prepare two tablespoonfuls of a coarse _julienne_ of carrots and 107. 1. Make a broth of the flesh of turtle alone, and then add a very 108. 2. Make an ordinary broth of shin of beef, using the same quantity 109. 2. The flavour which typifies them should be at once decided and yet 110. 3. When the flavour is imparted by a wine, the latter should be of the 111. 4. Supper consommés never contain any garnish. 112. 2. The velouté d’éperlans should, like almost all fish veloutés, be 113. 3. For this soup I elected to use a panada as the thickening element, 114. CHAPTER XIV 115. 1. +Crayfish Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 116. 2. +Lobster Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with slices of 117. 3. +Shrimp Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with crayfish tails 118. 4. +Capsicum Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 119. 5. +Physalia Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with chervil, 120. 6. +Green Pimentos Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with strips of 121. 7. +Early-season Herb Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with 122. 8. +Volnay Mousse+ with fillets of trout, decked with anchovy fillets, 123. 9. +Chambertin Mousse+ with fillets of trout decked like No. 8. 124. 1. Put a preparation of Duchesse potatoes in a piping-bag fitted with 125. 2. Bake some large potatoes in the oven. Open them; remove their pulp, 126. 2. A garnish consisting of twelve rolled or folded fillets of sole 127. 1. For a mould capable of holding one quart, fold twelve small fillets 128. 1. A hot ravigote sauce combined with the gravy of the lobster, from 129. 2. Strain the contents of the dripping-pan (cleared of all grease) 130. CHAPTER XV 131. 2. At either end a nice heap of potatoes, shaped like long olives, and 132. 1. With a preparation of sweet potatoes, made after the manner of 133. 2. Cut some chow-chows in thick slices, _paysanne fashion_; parboil 134. 1. About one-quarter lb. of carrots turned to the shape of elongated 135. 3. The calf’s feet cut into small, square, or rectangular pieces. 136. 2. VEAL. 137. CHAPTER XVI 138. 1. The various pheasants, grey and red partridges, the Tetras 139. 10. The ortolans. 140. CHAPTER XVII 141. 1. _Oil seasoning_ may be applied to all salads, and is made up of 142. 2. _Cream seasoning_ is particularly well suited to salads of 143. 3. _Egg seasoning_ is prepared from crushed hard-boiled yolks of egg, 144. 4. _Bacon seasoning_ is used especially for dandelion, red-cabbage, 145. 5. _Mustard with cream seasoning_ is used particularly with beetroot 146. CHAPTER XVIII 147. 2. The green, Parisian asparagus, which is very small, and of which the 148. 4. English asparagus, which is somewhat delicate in quality, but 149. 2. Flemish chicory, which is genuine endive in its primitive state, 150. 3. Brussels chicory, or the Belgian kind; obtained from cultivating the 151. 2. Red cabbages: used as a vegetable, as a hors-d’œuvre, or as a 152. 3. Round-headed or Savoy cabbages: specially suited to braising and the 153. 4. Scotch kale and spring cabbages: always prepared in the English 154. 5. Cauliflowers and broccoli: the flower of these is most commonly 155. 7. Kohlrabi: the roots of these may be dished as turnips, and the 156. CHAPTER XIX 157. 1. The simplest way is to cover the pieces of toast with a thick layer 158. 2. The original method consists in melting the dice or slices of cheese 159. CHAPTER XX 160. 1. Extract the butter-milk, which is always present in more or less 161. 2. Make it sufficiently soft to mix with the various ingredients of 162. 3. For the quantities given (No. 2373), eight oz. of fresh Gruyère, cut 163. 4. Surprise omelets. 164. CHAPTER XXI 165. CHAPTER XXII 166. CHAPTER XXIII

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