The Boston cooking-school cook book by Fannie Merritt Farmer
2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing one minute for bread to
1798 words | Chapter 7
brown.
Many kinds of food may be fried in the same fat; new fat should be used
for batter and dough mixtures, potatoes, and fishballs; after these,
fish, meat, and croquettes. Fat should be frequently clarified.
=To Clarify Fat.= Melt fat, add raw potato cut in quarter-inch slices,
and allow fat to heat gradually; when fat ceases to bubble and potatoes
are well browned, strain through double cheese-cloth, placed over wire
strainer, into a pan. The potato absorbs any odors or gases, and
collects to itself some of the sediment, remainder settling to bottom of
kettle.
When small amount of fat is to be clarified, add to cold fat boiling
water, stir vigorously, and set aside to cool; the fat will form a cake
on top, which may be easily removed; on bottom of the cake will be found
sediment, which may be readily scraped off with a knife.
Remnants of fat, either cooked or uncooked, should be saved and tried
out, and when necessary clarified.
Fat from beef, poultry, chicken, and pork, may be used for shortening or
frying purposes; fat from mutton and smoked meats may be used for making
hard and soft soap; fat removed from soup stock, the water in which
corned beef has been cooked, and drippings from roast beef, may be tried
out, clarified, and used for shortening or frying purposes.
=To Try out Fat.= Cut in small pieces and melt in top of a double
boiler; in this way it will require less watching than if placed in
kettle on the back of range. Leaf lard is tried out in the same way; in
cutting the leaf, remove membrane. After straining lard, that which
remains may be salted, pressed, and eaten as a relish, and is called
scraps.
=Sautéing= is frying in a small quantity of fat. Food so cooked is much
more difficult of digestion than when fried in deep fat; it is
impossible to cook in this way without the food absorbing fat. A
frying-pan or griddle is used; the food is cooked on one side, then
turned, and cooked on the other.
=Braising= is stewing and baking (meat). Meat to be braised is
frequently first sautéd to prevent escape of much juice in the gravy.
The meat is placed in a pan with a small quantity of stock or water,
vegetables (carrot, turnip, celery, and onion) cut in pieces, salt,
pepper, and sweet herbs. The pan should have a tight-fitting cover. Meat
so prepared should be cooked in an oven at low uniform temperature for a
long time. This is an economical way of cooking, and the only way
besides stewing or boiling of making a large piece of tough meat
palatable and digestible.
=Fricasseeing= is sautéing and serving with a sauce. Tender meat is
fricasseed without previous cooking; less tender meat requires cooking
in hot water before fricasseeing. Although veal is obtained from a young
creature, it requires long cooking; it is usually sautéd, and then
cooked in a sauce at low temperature for a long time.
VARIOUS WAYS OF PREPARING FOOD FOR COOKING
=Egging and Crumbing.= Use for crumbing dried bread crumbs which have
been rolled and sifted, or soft stale bread broken in pieces and forced
through a colander. An ingenious machine on the market, “The Bread
Crumber,” does this work. Egg used for crumbing should be broken into a
shallow plate and beaten with a silver fork to blend yolk and white;
dilute each egg with two tablespoons water. The crumbs should be taken
on a board; food to be fried should be first rolled in crumbs (care
being taken that all parts are covered with crumbs), then dipped in egg
mixture (equal care being taken to cover all parts), then rolled in
crumbs again; after the last crumbing remove food to a place on the
board where there are no crumbs, and shake off some of the outer ones
which make coating too thick. A broad-bladed knife with short handle—the
Teller knife—is the most convenient utensil for lifting food to be
crumbed from egg mixture. Small scallops, oysters, and crabs are more
easily crumbed by putting crumbs and fish in paper and shaking paper
until the fish is covered with crumbs. The object of first crumbing is
to dry the surface that egg may cling to it; and where a thin coating is
desired flour is often used in place of crumbs.
=Larding= is introducing small pieces of fat salt pork or bacon through
the surface of uncooked meat. The flavor of lean and dry meat is much
improved by larding; tenderloin of beef (fillet), grouse, partridge,
pigeon, and liver are often prepared in this way. Pig pork being firm,
is best for larding. Pork should be kept in a cold place that it may be
well chilled. Remove rind and use the part of pork which lies between
rind and vein. With sharp knife (which is sure to make a clean cut)
remove slices a little less than one-fourth inch thick; cut the slices
into strips a little less than one-fourth inch wide; these strips should
be two and one-fourth inches long, and are called _lardoons_. Lardoons
for small birds—quail, for example—should be cut smaller and not quite
so long. To lard, insert one end of lardoon into larding-needle, hold
needle firmly, and with pointed end take up a stitch one-third inch deep
and three-fourths inch wide; draw needle through, care being taken that
lardoon is left in meat and its ends project to equal lengths. Arrange
lardoons in parallel rows, one inch apart, stitches in the alternate
rows being directly underneath each other. Lard the upper surface of
cuts of meat with the grain, never across it. In birds, insert lardoons
at right angles to breastbone on either side. When large lardoons are
forced through meat from surface to surface, the process is called
daubing. Example: Beef à la mode. Thin slices of fat salt pork placed
over meat may be substituted for larding, but flavor is not the same as
when pork is drawn through flesh, and the dish is far less sightly.
=Boning= is removing bones from meat or fish, leaving the flesh nearly
in its original shape. For boning, a small sharp knife with pointed
blade is essential. Legs of mutton and veal and loins of beef may be
ordered boned at market, no extra charge being made.
Whoever wishes to learn how to bone should first be taught boning of a
small bird; when this is accomplished, larger birds, chickens, and
turkeys may easily be done, the processes varying but little. In large
birds tendons are drawn from legs, and the wings are left on and boned.
How to Bone a Bird
In buying birds for boning, select those which have been fresh killed,
dry picked, and not drawn. Singe, remove pinfeathers, head, and feet,
and cut off wings close to body. Lay bird on a board, breast down.
Begin at neck and with sharp knife cut through the skin the entire
length of body. Scrape the flesh from backbone until end of one
shoulder-blade is found; scrape flesh from shoulder-blade and continue
around wing joint, cutting through tendinous portions which are
encountered; then bone other side. Scrape skin from backbone the entire
length of body, working across the ribs. Free wishbone and collar-bones,
at same time removing crop and windpipe; continue down breastbone,
particular care being taken not to break the skin as it lies very near
bone, or to cut the delicate membranes which enclose entrails. Scrape
flesh from second joints and drumsticks, laying it back and drawing off
as a glove may be drawn from the hand. Withdraw carcass and put flesh
back in its original shape. In large birds where wings are boned, scrape
flesh to middle joint, where bone should be broken, leaving bone at tip
end to assist in preserving shape.
How to Measure
Correct measurements are absolutely necessary to insure the best
results. Good judgment, with experience, has taught some to measure by
sight; but the majority need definite guides.
Tin, granite-ware, and glass measuring cups, divided in quarters or
thirds, holding one half-pint, and tea and table spoons of regulation
sizes,—which may be bought at any store where kitchen furnishings are
sold,—and a case knife, are essentials for correct measurement.
Mixing-spoons, which are little larger than tablespoons, should not be
confounded with the latter.
=Measuring Ingredients.= Flour, meal, powdered and confectioners’ sugar,
and soda should be sifted before measuring. Mustard and baking-powder,
from standing in boxes, settle, therefore should be stirred to lighten;
salt frequently lumps, and these lumps should be broken. A _cupful_ is
measured level. To measure a cupful, put in the ingredient by spoonfuls
or from a scoop, round slightly, and level with a case knife, care being
taken not to shake the cup. _A tablespoonful is measured level. A
teaspoonful is measured level._
To measure tea or table spoonfuls, dip the spoon in the ingredient,
fill, lift, and level with a knife, the sharp edge of knife being toward
tip of spoon. Divide with knife lengthwise of spoon, for a
half-spoonful; divide halves crosswise for quarters, and quarters
crosswise for eighths. Less than one-eighth of a teaspoonful is
considered a few grains.
=Measuring Liquids.= A cupful of liquid is all the cup will hold.
A tea or table spoonful is all the spoon will hold.
=Measuring Butter, Lard, etc.= To measure butter, lard, and other solid
fats, pack solidly into cup or spoon, and level with a knife.
When dry ingredients, liquids, and fats are called for in the same
recipe, measure in the order given, thereby using but one cup.
How to Combine Ingredients
Next to measuring comes care in combining,—a fact not always recognized
by the inexperienced. Three ways are considered,—stirring, beating, and
cutting and folding.
=To stir=, mix by using circular motion, widening the circles until all
is blended. Stirring is the motion ordinarily employed in all cookery,
alone or in combination with beating.
=To beat=, turn ingredient or ingredients over and over, continually
bringing the under part to the surface, thus allowing the utensil used
for beating to be constantly brought in contact with bottom of the dish
and throughout the mixture.
=To cut and fold=, introduce one ingredient into another ingredient or
mixture by two motions: with a spoon, a repeated vertical downward
motion, known as cutting; and a turning over and over of mixture,
allowing bowl of spoon each time to come in contact with bottom of dish,
is called folding. These repeated motions are alternated until thorough
blending is accomplished.
=By stirring=, ingredients are mixed; _by beating_, a large amount of
air is enclosed; _by cutting and folding_, air already introduced is
prevented from escaping.
Ways of Preserving
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