CHAPTER IX

SOUPS WITHOUT STOCK Black Bean Soup 1 pint black beans 2 quarts cold water 1 small onion 2 stalks celery, or ¼ teaspoon celery salt ½ tablespoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper ¼ teaspoon mustard Few grains cayenne 3 tablespoons butter 1½ tablespoons flour 2 “hard-boiled” eggs 1 lemon Soak beans over night; in the morning drain and add cold water. Slice onion, and cook five minutes with half the butter, adding to beans, with celery stalks broken in pieces. Simmer three or four hours, or until beans are soft; add more water as water boils away. Rub through a sieve, reheat to the boiling-point, and add salt, pepper, mustard, and cayenne well mixed. Bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together. Cut eggs in thin slices, and lemon in thin slices, removing seeds. Put in tureen, and strain the soup over them. Baked Bean Soup 3 cups cold baked beans 3 pints water 2 slices onion 2 stalks celery 1½ cups stewed and strained tomatoes 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 tablespoon Chili sauce Salt Pepper Put beans, water, onion, and celery in saucepan; bring to boiling-point and simmer thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, add tomato, and Chili sauce, season to taste with salt and pepper, and bind with the butter and flour cooked together. Serve with Crisp Crackers. Cream of Lima Bean Soup 1 cup dried lima beans 3 pints cold water 2 slices onion 4 slices carrot 1 cup cream or milk 4 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper Soak beans over night; in the morning drain and add cold water; cook until soft, and rub through a sieve. Cut vegetables in small cubes, and cook five minutes in half the butter; remove vegetables, add flour, salt, and pepper, and stir into boiling soup. Add cream, reheat, strain, and add remaining butter in small pieces. Cream of Artichoke Soup 6 artichokes 4 cups boiling water 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1½ teaspoons salt Few grains cayenne Few gratings nutmeg 2 tablespoons Sauterne wine 1 cup scalded cream 1 egg 2 cucumbers Cook artichokes in boiling water until soft, and rub through a sieve. Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, pour on hot liquor, and cook one minute. Add cream, wine, and egg slightly beaten. Pare cucumbers, cut in one-third inch cubes, sauté in butter, and add to soup. Jerusalem artichokes are used for the making of this soup. Celery Soup I 3 cups celery (cut in one-half inch pieces) 1 pint boiling water 2½ cups milk 1 slice onion 3 tablespoons butter ¼ cup flour Salt and pepper Wash and scrape celery before cutting in pieces, cook in boiling water until soft, and rub through a sieve. Scald milk with the onion, remove onion, and add milk to celery. Bind with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Outer and old stalks of celery may be utilized for soups. Serve with croûtons, crisp crackers, or pulled bread. Celery Soup II 3 stalks celery 3 cups milk 1 slice onion 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper 1 cup cream Break celery in one-inch pieces, and pound in a mortar. Cook in double boiler with onion and milk twenty minutes. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper, add cream, strain into tureen, and serve at once. Corn Soup 1 can corn 1 pint boiling water 1 pint milk 1 slice onion 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Chop the corn, add water, and simmer twenty minutes; rub through a sieve. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to corn. Bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add salt and pepper. Halibut Soup ¾ cup cold boiled halibut 1 pint milk 1 slice onion Blade of mace 3 tablespoons butter 1½ tablespoons flour ½ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Rub fish through a sieve. Scald milk with onion and mace. Remove seasonings, and add fish. Bind with half the butter and flour cooked together. Add salt, pepper, and the remaining butter in small pieces. Pea Soup 1 can Marrowfat peas 2 teaspoons sugar 1 pint cold water 1 pint milk 1 slice onion 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Drain peas from their liquor, add sugar and cold water, and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, reheat, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to pea mixture, season with salt and pepper. Peas too old to serve as a vegetable may be utilized for soups. Split Pea Soup 1 cup dried split peas 2½ quarts cold water 1 pint milk ½ onion 3 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1½ teaspoons salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 2–inch cube fat salt pork Pick over peas and soak several hours, drain, add cold water, pork, and onion. Simmer three or four hours, or until soft; rub through a sieve. Add butter and flour cooked together, salt, and pepper. Dilute with milk, adding more if necessary. The water in which a ham has been cooked may be used; in such case omit salt. Kornlet Soup 1 can kornlet 1 pint cold water 1 quart milk, scalded 4 tablespoons butter 1 tablespoon chopped onion 4 tablespoons flour 1½ teaspoons salt Few grains pepper Cook kornlet in cold water twenty minutes; rub through a sieve, and add milk. Fry butter and onion three minutes; remove onion, add flour, salt, and pepper, and stir into boiling soup. Potato Soup 3 potatoes 1 quart milk 2 slices onion 3 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1½ teaspoons salt ¼ teaspoon celery salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Few grains cayenne 1 teaspoon chopped parsley Cook potatoes in boiling salted water; when soft, rub through a strainer. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk slowly to potatoes. Melt half the butter, add dry ingredients, stir until well mixed, then stir into boiling soup; cook one minute, strain, add remaining butter, and sprinkle with parsley. Appledore Soup Make same as Potato Soup, and add, just before serving, three tablespoons tomato catsup. Swiss Potato Soup 4 small potatoes 1 large flat white turnip 3 cups boiling water 1 quart scalded milk ½ onion 4 tablespoons butter ⅓ cup flour 1½ teaspoons salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in halves. Wash, pare, and cut turnips in one-quarter inch slices. Parboil together ten minutes, drain, add onion cut in slices, and three cups boiling water. Cook until vegetables are soft; drain, reserving the water to add to vegetables after rubbing them through a sieve. Add milk, reheat, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Leek and Potato Soup 1 bunch leeks 1 cup celery 2½ tablespoons butter 1 quart milk 2½ cups potatoes 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour Salt and pepper Cayenne Cut leeks and celery in very thin slices crosswise and cook in two and one-half tablespoons butter, stirring constantly, ten minutes. Add milk, and cook in double boiler forty minutes. Cut potatoes in slices and cut slices in small pieces; then cook in boiling salted water ten minutes. Melt two tablespoons butter, add flour, milk with vegetables and potatoes. Cook until potatoes are soft, and season with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Vegetable Soup ⅓ cup carrot ⅓ cup turnip ½ cup celery 1½ cups potato ½ onion 1 quart water 5 tablespoons butter ½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley Salt and pepper Wash and scrape a small carrot; cut in quarters lengthwise; cut quarters in thirds lengthwise; cut strips thus made in thin slices crosswise. Wash and pare half a turnip, and cut and slice same as carrot. Wash, pare, and cut potatoes in small pieces. Wash and scrape celery and cut in quarter-inch pieces. Prepare vegetables before measuring. Cut onion in thin slices. Mix vegetables (except potatoes), and cook ten minutes, in four tablespoons butter, stirring constantly. Add potatoes, cover, and cook two minutes. Add water, and boil one hour. Beat with spoon or fork to break vegetables. Add remaining butter and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Salmon Soup ⅓ can salmon 1 quart scalded milk 2 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons flour 1½ teaspoons salt Few grains pepper Drain oil from salmon, remove skin and bones, rub through a sieve. Add gradually the milk, season, and bind. Squash Soup ¾ cup cooked squash 1 quart milk 1 slice onion 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt Few grains pepper ¼ teaspoon celery salt Rub squash through a sieve before measuring. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to squash; season, and bind. Tomato Soup 1 can tomatoes 1 pint water 12 peppercorns Bit of bay leaf 4 cloves 2 teaspoons sugar 1 teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon soda 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 slice onion Cook tomatoes, water, peppercorns, bay leaf, cloves, and sugar twenty minutes; strain, and add salt and soda; bind, and strain into tureen. Cream of Tomato Soup ½ can tomatoes 2 teaspoons sugar ¼ teaspoon soda 1 quart milk 1 slice onion 4 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper ⅓ cup butter Scald milk with onion, remove onion, and thicken milk with flour diluted with cold water until thin enough to pour, being careful that the mixture is free from lumps; cook twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first. Cook tomatoes with sugar fifteen minutes, add soda, and rub through a sieve; combine mixtures, and strain into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Mock Bisque Soup ½ can tomatoes 2 teaspoons sugar ¼ teaspoon soda ½ onion, stuck with 6 cloves Sprig of parsley Bit of bay leaf ¾ cup stale bread crumbs 4 cups milk ½ tablespoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper ⅓ cup butter Scald milk with bread crumbs, onion, parsley, and bay leaf. Remove seasonings and rub through a sieve. Cook tomatoes with sugar fifteen minutes; add soda and rub through a sieve. Reheat bread and milk to boiling-point, add tomatoes, and pour at once into tureen over butter, salt, and pepper. Serve with croûtons, crisp crackers, or Souffléd crackers. Tapioca Wine Soup ⅓ cup pearl tapioca 1 cup cold water 3 cups boiling water ½ teaspoon salt 3–inch piece stick cinnamon 1 pint claret wine ½ cup powdered sugar Soak tapioca in cold water two hours. Drain, add to boiling water with salt and cinnamon; let boil three minutes, then cook in double boiler until tapioca is transparent. Cool, add wine and sugar. Serve very cold. CHOWDERS Corn Chowder 1 can corn 4 cups potatoes, cut in ¼-inch slices 1½-inch cube fat salt pork 1 sliced onion 4 cups scalded milk 8 common crackers 3 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper Cut pork in small pieces and try out; add onion and cook five minutes, stirring often that onion may not burn; strain fat into a stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover; drain, and add potatoes to fat; then add two cups boiling water; cook until potatoes are soft, add corn and milk, then heat to boiling-point. Season with salt and pepper; add butter, and crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten. Remove crackers, turn chowder into a tureen, and put crackers on top. Fish Chowder 4 lb. cod or haddock 6 cups potatoes cut in ¼-inch slices, or 4 cups potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes 1 sliced onion 1½-inch cube fat salt pork 1 tablespoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 3 tablespoons butter 4 cups scalded milk 8 common crackers Order the fish skinned, but head and tail left on. Cut off head and tail and remove fish from backbone. Cut fish in two-inch pieces and set aside. Put head, tail, and backbone broken in pieces, in stewpan; add two cups cold water and bring slowly to boiling-point; cook twenty minutes. Cut salt pork in small pieces and try out, add onion, and fry five minutes; strain fat into stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover; drain and add potatoes to fat; then add two cups boiling water and cook five minutes. Add liquor drained from bones, then add the fish; cover, and simmer ten minutes. Add milk, salt, pepper, butter, and crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten, otherwise they will be soft on the outside, but dry on the inside. Pilot bread is sometimes used in place of common crackers. Connecticut Chowder 4 lb. cod or haddock 4 cups potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes 1½-inch cube fat salt pork 1 sliced onion 2½ cups stewed and strained tomatoes 3 tablespoons butter ⅔ cup cracker crumbs Salt and pepper Prepare same as Fish Chowder, using liquor drained from bones for cooking potatoes, instead of additional water. Use tomatoes in place of milk and add cracker crumbs just before serving. Clam Chowder 1 quart clams 4 cups potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes 1½ inch cube fat salt pork 1 sliced onion 1 tablespoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 4 tablespoons butter 4 cups scalded milk 8 common crackers Clean and pick over clams, using one cup cold water, drain, reserve liquor, heat to boiling-point, and strain. Chop finely hard part of clams; cut pork in small pieces and try out; add onion, fry five minutes, and strain into a stewpan. Parboil potatoes five minutes in boiling water to cover; drain, and put a layer in bottom of stewpan, add chopped clams, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge generously with flour; add remaining potatoes, again sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and add two and one-half cups boiling water. Cook ten minutes, add milk, soft part of clams, and butter; boil three minutes, and add crackers split and soaked in enough cold milk to moisten. Reheat clam water to boiling-point, and thicken with one tablespoon butter and flour cooked together. Add to chowder just before serving. The clam water has a tendency to cause the milk to separate, hence is added at the last. Rhode Island Chowder 1 quart clams 3 inch cube fat salt pork 1 sliced onion ½ cup cold water 4 cups potatoes cut in ¾ inch cubes 2 cups boiling water 1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes ¼ teaspoon soda 1 cup scalded milk 1 cup scalded cream 2 tablespoons butter 8 common crackers Salt and pepper Cook pork with onion and cold water ten minutes; drain, and reserve liquor. Wash clams and reserve liquor. Parboil potatoes five minutes, and drain. To potatoes add reserved liquors, hard part of clams finely chopped, and boiling water. When potatoes are nearly done, add tomatoes, soda, soft part of clams, milk, cream, and butter. Season with salt and pepper. Split crackers, soak in cold milk to moisten, and reheat in chowder. Lobster Chowder 2 lb. lobster 3 tablespoons butter 2 common crackers, finely pounded 4 cups milk 1 slice onion 1 cup cold water Salt Paprika or cayenne Remove meat from lobster shell and cut in small dice. Cream two tablespoons butter, add liver of lobster (green part) and crackers; scald milk with onion, remove onion, and add milk to mixture. Cook body bones ten minutes in cold water to cover, strain, and add to mixture with lobster dice. Season with salt and paprika. German Chowder 3 lb. haddock 1 quart cold water 2 slices carrot Bit of bay leaf Sprig of parsley 1 cracker, pounded Salt, pepper, cayenne 2 tablespoons melted butter Few drops onion juice 1 beaten egg 1 quart potatoes cut in ¾-inch cubes 2–inch cube fat salt pork 1 sliced onion 5 tablespoons flour 1 quart scalded milk ¼ cup butter 8 common crackers Clean, skin, and bone fish. Add to bones cold water and vegetables, and let simmer twenty minutes. Strain stock from bones. Chop fish meat; there should be one and one-half cups. Add cracker, seasonings, melted butter and egg, then shape in small balls. Try out pork, add onion, and cook five minutes. Strain, and add to fat, potatoes, balls, and fish stock, and cook until potatoes are soft. Thicken milk with butter and flour cooked together. Combine mixtures, and season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Add crackers, split and soaked in cold milk.