CHAPTER VII

EGGS COMPOSITION Proteid, 14.9% Fat, 10.6% Mineral matter, 1% Water, 73.5% Eggs, like milk, form a typical food, inasmuch as they contain all the elements, in the right proportion, necessary for the support of the body. Their highly concentrated, nutritive value renders it necessary to use them in combination with other foods rich in starch (bread, potatoes, etc.). In order that the stomach may have enough to act upon, a certain amount of bulk must be furnished. A pound of eggs (nine) is equivalent in nutritive value to a pound of beef. From this it may be seen that eggs, at even twenty-five cents per dozen, should not be freely used by the strict economist. Eggs being rich in proteid serve as a valuable substitute for meat. In most families, their use in the making of cake, custard, puddings, etc., renders them almost indispensable. It is surprising how many intelligent women, who look well to the affairs of the kitchen, are satisfied to use what are termed “cooking eggs”; this shows poor judgment from an economical standpoint. Strictly fresh eggs should always be used if obtainable. An egg after the first twenty-four hours steadily deteriorates. If exposed to air, owing to the porous structure of the shell, there is an evaporation of water, air rushes in, and decomposition takes place. White of egg contains albumen in its purest form. Albumen coagulates at a temperature of from 134° to 160° F. Herein lies the importance of cooking eggs at a low temperature, thus rendering them easy of digestion. Eggs cooked in boiling water are tough and horny, difficult of digestion, and should never be served. When eggs come from the market, they should be washed, and put away in a cold place. =Ways of Determining Freshness of Eggs.= I. Hold in front of candle flame in dark room, and the centre should look clear. II. Place in basin of cold water, and they should sink. III. Place large end to the cheek, and a warmth should be felt. =Ways of Keeping Eggs.= I. Pack in sawdust, small end down. II. Keep in lime water. III. From July to September a large number of eggs are packed, small ends down, in cases having compartments, one for each egg, and kept in cold storage. Eggs are often kept in cold storage six months, and then sold as cooking eggs. Boiled Eggs Have ready a saucepan containing boiling water. Carefully put in with a spoon the number of eggs desired, covering them with water. Remove saucepan to back of range, where water will not boil. Cook from six to eight minutes if liked “soft-boiled,” forty to forty-five if liked “hard-boiled.” Eggs may be cooked by placing in cold water and allowing water to heat gradually until the boiling-point is reached, when they will be “soft-boiled.” In using hard-boiled eggs for making other dishes, when taken from the hot water they should be plunged into cold water to prevent, if possible, discoloration of yolks. Eggs perfectly cooked should be placed and kept in water at a uniform temperature of 175° F. Dropped Eggs (Poached) Have ready a shallow pan two-thirds full of boiling salted water, allowing one-half tablespoon salt to one quart of water. Put two or three buttered muffin rings in the water. Break each egg separately into a cup, and carefully slip into a muffin ring. The water should cover the eggs. When there is a film over the top, and the white is firm, carefully remove with a buttered skimmer to circular pieces of buttered toast, and let each person season his own egg with butter, salt, and pepper. If cooked for an invalid, garnish with four toast points and a bit of parsley. An egg-poacher may be used instead of muffin rings. Eggs à la Finnoise Dropped Eggs, served with Tomato Sauce I. Poached Eggs à la Reine Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with sliced fresh mushrooms sautéd in butter and moistened with cream. Poach eggs and arrange on mushrooms. Pour over all white sauce to which grated Parmesan cheese has been added. Sprinkle with grated cheese and put in oven to brown. Garnish with canned pimentoes cut in fancy shapes. Eggs à la Suisse 4 eggs ½ cup cream 1 tablespoon butter Salt Pepper Cayenne 2 tablespoons grated cheese Heat a small omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, add cream. Slip in the eggs one at a time, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a few grains of cayenne. When whites are nearly firm, sprinkle with cheese. Finish cooking, and serve on buttered toast. Strain cream over the toast. Eggs Susette Wash and bake six large potatoes, cut slice from top of each, scoop out inside, and mash. To three cups mashed potato add six tablespoons finely chopped ham, two tablespoons finely chopped parsley, whites of two eggs well beaten, three tablespoons butter, four tablespoons cream, and salt and pepper. Line potato shells with mixture, place in each cavity a poached egg, cover with potato mixture, and bake until browned. Care must be taken to have eggs delicately parched. Baked or Shirred Eggs Butter an egg-shirrer. Cover bottom and sides with fine cracker crumbs. Break an egg into a cup, and carefully slip into shirrer. Cover with seasoned buttered crumbs, and bake in moderate oven until white is firm and crumbs brown. The shirrers should be placed on a tin plate, that they may be easily removed from the oven. Eggs may be baked in small tomatoes. Cut a slice from stem end of tomato, scoop out the pulp, slip in an egg, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake. Eggs à la Tripe Serve dropped eggs on Lobster Croquettes (see p. 558) shaped in flat round cakes one-half inch thick. Garnish with lobster claws and parsley. Eggs à la Benedict Split and toast English muffins. Sauté circular pieces of cold boiled ham, place these over the halves of muffins, arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around Hollandaise Sauce II (see p. 274), diluted with cream to make of such consistency to pour easily. Eggs à la Lee Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with thin slices cold boiled ham. Arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around. =Mushroom Purée.= Clean one-fourth pound mushrooms, break caps in pieces, and sauté five minutes in one tablespoon butter. Add one cup chicken stock and simmer five minutes. Rub through a sieve and thicken with one tablespoon each butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Eggs à la Commodore Cut slices of bread in circular pieces and sauté in butter. Remove a portion of centre, leaving a rim one-fourth inch wide. Spread cavity thus made with pâté de foie gras purée, place a poached egg in each and pour over a rich brown or Béchamel sauce to which is added a few drops vinegar. Garnish with chopped truffles. Eggs, Waldorf Style Arrange poached eggs on circular pieces of buttered toast, surround with Brown Mushroom Sauce (see p. 268), and place a broiled mushroom cap on each egg. Poached Eggs with Sauce Bearnaise Poach six eggs, arrange in serving dish, cover eggs alternately with red and yellow sauce, and garnish with parsley. =Sauce Bearnaise.= Beat yolks three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons hot water, three-fourths tablespoon tarragon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens. Color one-half the sauce with tomato purée (tomatoes drained from their liquor, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp). Scrambled Eggs 5 eggs ½ cup milk ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons butter Beat eggs slightly with silver fork; add salt, pepper, and milk. Heat omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, turn in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of the pan. Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce 6 eggs 1¾ cups tomatoes 2 teaspoons sugar 4 tablespoons butter 1 slice onion ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Simmer tomatoes and sugar five minutes; fry butter and onion three minutes; remove onion, and add tomatoes, seasonings, and eggs slightly beaten. Cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Serve with entire wheat bread or brown bread toast. Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast Spread thin slices of buttered toast with Anchovy Paste. Arrange on platter, and cover with scrambled eggs. Eggs à la Buckingham Make five slices milk toast, and arrange on platter. Use recipe for Scrambled Eggs, having the eggs slightly underdone. Pour eggs over toast, sprinkle with four tablespoons grated mild cheese. Put in oven to melt cheese, and finish cooking eggs. Eggs à la Turk Prepare Scrambled Eggs, and pour over six slices of toasted bread. Put one tablespoon tomato purée on each piece, and in the centre of purée one-half tablespoon chickens’ livers sautéd in bacon fat. Eggs à la Livingstone 4 eggs ½ cup stewed and strained tomatoes ½ teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon paprika 2 tablespoons butter Pâté de foie gras Finely chopped truffles Beat eggs slightly, and add tomatoes, salt, and paprika. Melt butter in an omelet pan, add seasoned eggs, and cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Spread slices of toasted bread with pâté de foie gras. Pour over the eggs, and sprinkle with truffles. Scrambled Eggs, Country Style Heat omelet pan, put in two tablespoons butter, and when melted turn in four unbeaten eggs. Cook until white is partially set, then stir until cooking is completed, when whites will be thoroughly set. Season with salt and pepper. Buttered Eggs Heat omelet pan. Put in one tablespoon butter; when melted, slip in an egg, and cook until the white is firm. Turn it over once while cooking. Add more butter as needed, using just enough to keep egg from sticking. Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes Cut tomatoes in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Serve a buttered egg on each slice of tomato. Planked Eggs Finely chop cold cooked corned beef or corned tongue; there should be two-thirds cup. Add an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs, moisten with cream and season with salt and pepper. Spread mixture on plank, and make nests and border of duchess potatoes, using rose tube. Put a buttered or poached egg in each nest and put in oven to brown potato. Garnish with tomatoes cut in halves and broiled, and parsley. Eggs may be sprinkled with buttered cracker crumbs, just before sending to oven, if preferred. Fried Eggs Fried eggs are cooked as Buttered Eggs, without being turned. In this case the fat is taken by spoonfuls and poured over the eggs. Lard, pork, ham, or bacon fat are usually employed,—a considerable amount being used. Eggs à la Goldenrod 3 “hard-boiled” eggs 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour 1 cup milk ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 5 slices toast Parsley Make a thin white sauce with butter, flour, milk, and seasonings. Separate yolks from whites of eggs. Chop whites finely, and add them to the sauce. Cut four slices of toast in halves lengthwise. Arrange on platter, and pour over the sauce. Force the yolks through a potato ricer or strainer, sprinkling over the top. Garnish with parsley and remaining toast, cut in points. Eggs au Gratin Arrange Dropped Eggs on a shallow buttered dish. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Pour over eggs one pint Yellow Béchamel Sauce. Cover with stale bread crumbs, and sprinkle with grated cheese. Brown in oven. Tomato or White Sauce may be used. Eggs in Batter 1 egg 1½ tablespoons thick cream 2 tablespoons fine stale bread crumbs ¼ teaspoon salt Mix cream, bread crumbs, and salt. Put one-half tablespoon of mixture in egg-shirrer. Slip in egg, and cover with remaining mixture. Bake six minutes in moderate oven. Curried Eggs I 3 “hard-boiled” eggs 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour ¼ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon curry powder ⅛ teaspoon pepper 1 cup hot milk Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, and gradually hot milk. Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, and reheat in sauce. Curried Eggs II 4 “hard-boiled” eggs 2 tablespoons butter ½ tablespoon finely chopped onion 2 tablespoons flour 1 teaspoon curry powder ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon paprika 1⅓ cups scalded milk ½ cup cooked rice Chop whites of eggs and add to sauce made of butter, flour, seasonings, and milk, then add rice; heat to boiling-point, fill puff paste cases and sprinkle with yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve. Scalloped Eggs 3 “hard-boiled” eggs 1 pint White Sauce I ¾ cup chopped cold meat ¾ cup buttered cracker crumbs Chop eggs finely. Sprinkle bottom of a buttered baking dish with crumbs, cover with one-half the eggs, eggs with sauce, and sauce with meat; repeat. Cover with remaining crumbs. Place in oven on centre grate, and bake until crumbs are brown. Ham is the best meat to use for this dish. Chicken, veal, or fish may be used. Stuffed Eggs Cut four “hard-boiled” eggs in halves crosswise; remove yolks, mash, and add two tablespoons grated cheese, one teaspoon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste. Add enough melted butter to make mixture of the right consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Arrange on a serving dish, pour around one cup White Sauce, cover, and reheat. Stuffed Eggs in a Nest Cut “hard-boiled” eggs in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks, and put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add half the amount of devilled ham and enough melted butter to make of consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Form remainder of mixture into a nest. Arrange eggs in the nest, and pour over one cup White Sauce I. Sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Eggs à la Sidney Arrange “hard-boiled” eggs, cut in thirds lengthwise, on pieces of toasted bread. Pour over eggs Soubise Sauce. Eggs Huntington 4 “hard-boiled” eggs 1 tablespoon butter 1½ tablespoons flour ⅓ cup white stock ⅓ cup milk ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne Grated cheese ¾ cup buttered cracker crumbs Make a sauce of the butter, flour, stock, and milk; add eggs finely chopped and salt and cayenne. Fill buttered ramequin dishes with mixture, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with cracker crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until crumbs are brown. Egg Farci I Cut “hard-boiled” eggs in halves, crosswise. Remove yolks, and put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add equal amount of cold cooked chicken or veal, finely chopped. Moisten with melted butter or Mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt, pepper, lemon juice, mustard, and cayenne. Shape and refill whites. Egg Farci II Clean and chop two chickens’ livers, sprinkle with onion juice, and sauté in butter. Add the yolks of four “hard-boiled” eggs rubbed through a sieve, one teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt, pepper, and Tabasco Sauce to taste. Refill whites of eggs with mixture, cover with grated cheese, and bake until cheese melts. Serve in toast rings and pour around Tomato Purée (see p. 98). Lucanian Eggs 5 “hard-boiled” eggs 1 cup cooked macaroni ½ cup grated cheese Essence Anchovy 1¾ cups White Sauce I Salt and paprika Onion juice ¾ cup buttered crumbs Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, add macaroni, white sauce, and seasonings. Arrange in buttered baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Egg Soufflé 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk 1 cup cream 4 eggs 1 teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne Cream the butter, add flour, and pour on gradually scalded milk and cream. Cook in double boiler five minutes, and add yolks of eggs, beaten until thick and lemon-colored. Remove from fire, add seasonings, and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Turn into a buttered dish, or buttered individual moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Egg Soufflé may be served with White Sauce I, highly seasoned with celery salt, paprika, and onion juice. Egg Timbales 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon flour ⅔ cup milk 3 eggs 1 tablespoon chopped parsley ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Few grains celery salt Few grains cayenne Make a sauce of the butter, flour, and milk; add yolks beaten until thick and lemon-colored, then add seasonings. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, and cut and fold into first mixture. Turn into buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce (see page 271). Egg Croquettes 6 eggs 2 tablespoons butter 1 slice onion ⅓ cup flour 1 cup white stock Salt Pepper Yolks 3 eggs Stale bread crumbs Grated cheese Poach eggs and dry on a towel. Cook butter with onion three minutes. Add flour and, gradually, stock. Season with salt and pepper; then add yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Cook one minute, and cool. Cover eggs with mixture, roll in bread crumbs and cheese, using equal parts, dip in egg, again roll in crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. These may be served with a thin sauce, using equal parts of white stock and cream, and seasoning with grated cheese, salt, and paprika. Eggs à la Juliette Decorate egg-shaped individual moulds with truffles, and cold boiled tongue cut in fancy shapes, and pistachio nuts blanched and split. Line mould with aspic jelly, drop in a poached egg yolk, cover with aspic jelly, let stand until firm, and turn on a thin oval slice of cold boiled tongue. Eggs à la Parisienne Butter small timbale moulds, sprinkle with finely chopped truffles, parsley, and cooked beets. Break eggs, and slip one into each mould, sprinkle with salt and pepper, set in pan of hot water, and cook until egg is firm. Remove from moulds on octagon slices of toast, and pour around Tomato Sauce II (see p. 270). [Illustration: PLANKED EGGS.—_Page 100._ ] [Illustration: PLAIN OMELET.—_Page 105._ ] [Illustration: UTENSILS AND MATERIALS FOR THE STARTING OF BROWN SOUP STOCK.—_Page 113._ ] Eggs Mornay Break egg and slip into buttered egg-shirrers, allowing one or two eggs to each shirrer, according to size. Cover with White Sauce II (see p. 266), seasoned with one-third cup grated cheese, paprika, and yolks two eggs; cover with grated cheese and bake until firm. Omelets For omelets select large eggs, allowing one egg for each person, and one tablespoon liquid for each egg. Keep an omelet pan especially for omelets, and see that it is kept clean and smooth. A frying-pan may be used in place of omelet pan. Plain Omelet 4 eggs ½ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper 4 tablespoons hot water 1 tablespoon butter 1½ cups Thin White Sauce Separate yolks from whites. Beat yolks until thick and lemon-colored; add salt, pepper, and hot water. Beat whites until stiff and dry, cutting and folding them into first mixture until they have taken up mixture. Heat omelet pan, and butter sides and bottom. Turn in mixture, spread evenly, place on range where it will cook slowly, occasionally turning the pan that omelet may brown evenly. When well “puffed” and delicately browned underneath, place pan on centre grate of oven to finish cooking the top. The omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when pressed by the finger. If it clings to the finger like the beaten white of egg, it needs longer cooking. Fold, and turn on hot platter, and pour around one and one-half cups Thin White Sauce. Milk is sometimes used in place of hot water, but hot water makes a more tender omelet. A few grains baking powder are used by some cooks to hold up an omelet. To Fold and Turn an Omelet Hold an omelet pan by handle with the left hand. With a case knife make two one-half inch incisions opposite each other at right angles to handle. Place knife under the part of omelet nearest handle, tip pan to nearly a vertical position; by carefully coaxing the omelet with knife, it will fold and turn without breaking. Omelet with Meat or Vegetables Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in remnants of finely chopped cooked chicken, veal, or ham. Remnants of fish may be flaked and added to White Sauce; or cooked peas, asparagus, or cauliflower may be added. Oyster Omelet Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in one pint oysters, parboiled, drained from their liquor, and cut in halves. Turn on platter, and pour around Thin White Sauce. Orange Omelet 3 eggs 2 tablespoons powdered sugar Few grains salt 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 oranges ½ tablespoon butter 2½ tablespoons orange juice Follow directions for Plain Omelet. Remove skin from oranges and cut in slices, lengthwise. Fold in one-third of the slices of orange, well sprinkled with powdered sugar; put remaining slices around omelet, and sprinkle with sugar. Jelly Omelet Mix and cook Plain Omelet, omitting pepper and one-half the salt, and adding one tablespoon sugar. Spread before folding with jam, jelly, or marmalade. Fold, turn, and sprinkle with sugar. Bread Omelet 4 eggs ½ cup milk ½ cup stale bread crumbs ¾ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon butter Soak bread crumbs fifteen minutes in milk, add beaten yolks and seasonings, fold in whites. Cook and serve as Plain Omelet. French Omelet 4 eggs 4 tablespoons milk ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon pepper 2 tablespoons butter Beat eggs slightly, just enough to blend yolks and whites, add the milk and seasonings. Put butter in hot omelet pan; when melted, turn in the mixture; as it cooks, prick and pick up with a fork until the whole is of creamy consistency. Place on hotter part of range that it may brown quickly underneath. Fold, and turn on hot platter. Omelet with Croûtons 1 cup bread cut in ⅓ inch cubes Butter 5 eggs 4 tablespoons cream ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Fry cubes of bread in butter until well browned and crisp. Beat eggs slightly, add cream, salt, pepper, and croûtons. Put two tablespoons butter in hot omelet pan, and as soon as melted and slightly browned turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet. Eggs with Spinach à la Martin Cover the centre of a platter with finely chopped and seasoned cooked spinach. Beat three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons hot water, one-third teaspoon salt, one tablespoon, each, red and green pepper cut in strips, and one tablespoon cooked ham cut in very small pieces. Heat omelet pan, put in one and one-half tablespoons olive oil, and as soon as heated pour in mixture. Cook same as French Omelet and turn on to spinach. Garnish with parsley. Spanish Omelet Mix and cook a French Omelet. Serve with Tomato Sauce in the centre and around omelet. =Tomato Sauce.= Cook two tablespoons of butter with one tablespoon of finely chopped onion, until yellow. Add one and three-fourths cups tomatoes, and cook until moisture has nearly evaporated. Add one tablespoon sliced mushrooms, one tablespoon capers, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. This is improved by a small piece of red or green pepper, finely chopped, cooked with butter and onion. Rich Omelet 2½ tablespoons flour ¾ teaspoon salt 1 cup milk 3 eggs 3 tablespoons butter _Mrs. E. A. Dwinell_ Mix salt and flour, and add gradually milk. Beat eggs until thick and lemon-colored, then add to first mixture. Heat iron frying-pan and put in two-thirds of the butter; when butter is melted, pour in mixture. As it cooks, lift with a griddle-cake turner so that uncooked part may run underneath; add remaining butter as needed, and continue lifting the cooked part until it is firm throughout. Place on hotter part of range to brown; roll, and turn on hot platter. Omelette Robespierre 3 eggs 3 tablespoons hot water 1 tablespoon powdered sugar ⅛ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon vanilla Beat eggs slightly, and add remaining ingredients. Put one and one-half tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan, turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet. Fold, turn on a hot platter, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and score with a hot poker. Almond Omelet, Caramel Sauce 3 eggs 3 tablespoons caramel sauce Few grains salt ½ teaspoon vanilla Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add caramel, salt, and vanilla, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Put three-fourths tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, cover bottom of pan with shredded almonds, turn in mixture, and cook and fold same as Plain Omelet. Pour around =Caramel Sauce.= Pour one cup sugar in omelet pan, and stir constantly, over hot part of range, until melted to a light brown syrup. Add three-fourths cup hot water, and let simmer ten minutes.