The Boston cooking-school cook book by Fannie Merritt Farmer

CHAPTER XXVI

6934 words  |  Chapter 41

ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS Ices and other frozen dishes comprise the most popular desserts. Hygienically speaking, they cannot be recommended for the final course of a dinner, as cold mixtures reduce the temperature of the stomach, thus retarding digestion until the normal temperature is again reached. But how cooling, refreshing, and nourishing, when properly taken, and of what inestimable value in the sick room! Frozen dishes include:— _Water ice_,—fruit juice sweetened, diluted with water, and frozen. _Sherbet_,—water ice to which is added a small quantity of dissolved gelatine or beaten whites of eggs. _Frappé_,—water ice frozen to consistency of mush; in freezing, equal parts of salt and ice being used to make it granular. _Punch_,—water ice to which is added spirit and spice. _Sorbet_,—strictly speaking, frozen punch; the name is often given to a water ice where several kinds of fruit are used. _Philadelphia Ice Cream_,—thin cream, sweetened, flavored, and frozen. _Plain Ice Cream_,—custard foundation, thin cream, and flavoring. _Mousse_,—heavy cream, beaten until stiff, sweetened, flavored, placed in a mould, packed in salt and ice (using two parts crushed ice to one part salt), and allowed to stand three hours; or whip from thin cream may be used folded into mixture containing small quantity of gelatine. How to Freeze Desserts The prejudice of thinking a frozen dessert difficult to prepare has long since been overcome. With ice cream freezer, burlap bag, wooden mallet or axe, small saucepan, sufficient ice and coarse rock salt, the process neither takes much time nor patience. Snow may be used instead of ice; if not readily acted on by salt, pour in one cup cold water. Crush ice finely by placing in bag and giving a few blows with mallet or broad side of axe; if there are any coarse pieces, remove them. Place can containing mixture to be frozen in wooden tub, cover, and adjust top. Turn crank to make sure can fits in socket. Allow three level measures ice to one of salt, and repeat until ice and salt come to top of can, packing solidly, using handle of mallet to force it down. If only small quantity is to be frozen, the ice and salt need come only a little higher in the tub than mixture to be frozen. These are found the best proportions of ice and salt to insure smooth, fine-grained cream, sherbet, or water ice, while equal parts of salt and ice are used for freezing frappé. If a larger proportion of salt is used, mixture will freeze in shorter time and be of granular consistency, which is desirable only for frappé. The mixture increases in bulk during freezing, so the can should never be more than three-fourths filled; by overcrowding can, cream will be made coarse-grained. Turn the crank slowly and steadily to expose as large surface of mixture as possible to ice and salt. After frozen to a mush, the crank may be turned more rapidly, adding more ice and salt if needed; never draw off salt water until mixture is frozen, unless there is possibility of its getting into the can, for salt water is what effects freezing; until ice melts, no change will take place. After freezing is accomplished, draw off water, remove dasher, and with spoon pack solidly. Put cork in opening of cover, then put on cover. Re-pack freezer, using four measures ice to one of salt. Place over top newspapers or piece of carpet; when serving time comes, remove can, wipe carefully, and place in vessel of cool water; let stand one minute, remove cover, and run a knife around edge of cream, invert can on serving dish, and frozen mixture will slip out. Should there be any difficulty, a cloth wrung out of hot water, passed over can, will aid in removing mixture. To Line a Mould Allow mould to stand in salt and ice until well chilled. Remove cover, put in mixture by spoonfuls, and spread with back of spoon or a case knife evenly three-quarters inch thick. To Mould Frozen Mixtures When frozen mixtures are to be bricked or moulded, avoid freezing too hard. Pack mixture solidly in moulds and cover with buttered paper, buttered side up. Have moulds so well filled that mixture is forced down sides of mould when cover is pressed down. Re-pack in salt and ice, using four parts ice to one part salt. If these directions are carefully followed, one may feel no fear that salt water will enter cream, even though moulds be immersed in salt water. Lemon Ice 4 cups water 2 cups sugar ¾ cup lemon juice Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar twenty minutes; add lemon juice; cool, strain, and freeze. See directions for freezing, page 434. Cup St. Jacques Serve Lemon Ice in champagne glasses. Put three-fourths teaspoon Maraschino in each glass, and garnish with bananas cut in one-fourth inch slices, and slices cut in quarters, candied cherries cut in halves, Malaga grapes from which skins and seeds have been removed, and angelica cut in strips. Orange Ice 4 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 cups orange juice ¼ cup lemon juice Grated rind of two oranges Make syrup as for Lemon Ice; add fruit juice and grated rind; cool, strain, and freeze. Maraschino Ice Prepare Orange Ice mixture, freeze to a mush, flavor with Maraschino, and finish freezing. Serve in frappé glasses. Pomegranate Ice Same as Orange Ice, made from blood oranges. Raspberry Ice I 4 cups water 1⅔ cups sugar 2 cups raspberry juice 2 tablespoons lemon juice Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, cool, add raspberries mashed, and squeezed through double cheese-cloth, and lemon juice; strain and freeze. Raspberry Ice II 1 quart raspberries 1 cup sugar 1 cup water Lemon juice Sprinkle raspberries with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, squeeze through cheese-cloth, add water and lemon juice to taste, then freeze. Raspberry ice prepared in this way retains the natural color of the fruit. Strawberry Ice I 4 cups water 1½ cups sugar 2 cups strawberry juice 1 tablespoon lemon juice Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I. Strawberry Ice II 1 quart box strawberries 1 cup sugar 1 cup water Lemon juice Make same as Raspberry Ice II. Currant Ice 4 cups water 1½ cups sugar 2 cups currant juice Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I. Raspberry and Currant Ice 4 cups water 1⅓ cups sugar ⅔ cup raspberry juice 1⅓ cups currant juice Prepare and freeze same as Raspberry Ice I. Crême de Menthe Ice 4 cups water 1 cup sugar ⅓ cup Crême de Menthe cordial Burnett’s Leaf Green Make a syrup as for Lemon Ice, add cordial and coloring; strain and freeze. Icebergs Dissolve two cups sugar in three cups boiling water; cool, add three-fourths cup lemon juice, color with leaf green, and freeze. Serve in champagne glasses. Put one teaspoon Crême de Menthe in each glass, and sprinkle with finely chopped nut meats, using almonds, filberts, pecans, and walnuts in equal proportions. These may be used after the roast and before the game. Canton Sherbet 4 cups water 1 cup sugar ¼ lb. Canton ginger ½ cup orange juice ⅓ cup lemon juice Cut ginger in small pieces, add water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and freeze. To be used in place of punch at a course dinner. This quantity is enough to serve twelve persons. Milk Sherbet 4 cups milk 1½ cups sugar Juice 3 lemons Mix juice and sugar, stirring constantly while slowly adding milk; if added too rapidly mixture will have a curdled appearance, which is unsightly, but will not affect the quality of sherbet; freeze and serve. Frozen Chocolate with Whipped Cream 2 squares Baker’s chocolate 1 cup sugar Few grains salt 1 cup boiling water 3 cups rich milk Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot water, add one-half the sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water. Boil one minute, add to scalded milk with remaining sugar. Cool, freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla. Pineapple Frappé 2 cups water 1 cup sugar Juice 3 lemons 2 cups ice-water 1 can grated pineapple or 1 pineapple shredded Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar fifteen minutes; add pineapple and lemon juice; cool, strain, add ice-water, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts ice and salt. If fresh fruit is used, more sugar will be required. Pineapple Sorbet 2 cups water 2 cups sugar 1 can grated pineapple or 1 pineapple shredded 1⅓ cups orange juice ½ cup lemon juice 1 quart Apollinaris Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Sicilian Sorbet 1 can peaches 1 cup sugar 2 cups orange juice 2 tablespoons lemon juice Press peaches through a sieve, add sugar and fruit juices. Freeze and serve. Italian Sorbet 4 cups water 2 cups sugar 1½ cups orange juice 1½ cups grape fruit juice ½ cup lemon juice ¼ cup wine Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Apricot Sorbet 1 can apricots 1 cup sugar ½ cup wine ¼ cup lemon juice 1 pint cream Drain apricots, and add to syrup the pulp rubbed through a sieve. Add sugar, wine, and lemon juice. Freeze to a mush, then fold in the whip obtained from cream. Let stand one and one-half hours, and serve in glasses. Café Frappé White 1 egg ½ cup cold water ½ cup ground coffee 4 cups boiling water 1 cup sugar Beat white of egg slightly, add cold water, and mix with coffee; turn into scalded coffee-pot, add boiling water, and let boil one minute; place on back of range ten minutes; strain, add sugar, cool, and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Serve in frappé glasses, with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored. Cranberry Frappé 1 quart cranberries 2 cups water 2 cups sugar Juice 2 lemons Cook cranberries and water eight minutes; then force through a sieve. Add sugar and lemon juice, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts of ice and salt. Grape Frappé 4 cups water 2 cups sugar 2 cups grape juice ⅔ cup orange juice ¼ cup lemon juice Prepare and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Pomona Frappé 1½ cups sugar 4 cups water 1 quart sweet cider 2 cups orange juice ½ cup lemon juice Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water twenty minutes. Add cider, orange juice, and lemon juice. Cool, strain, and freeze to a mush. Clam Frappé 20 clams ½ cup cold water Wash clams thoroughly, changing water several times; put in stewpan with cold water, cover closely, and steam until shells open. Strain the liquor, cool, and freeze to a mush. Frozen Cranberries 4 cups cranberries 2¼ cups sugar 1½ cups boiling water Pick over and wash cranberries, add water and sugar, and cook ten minutes, skimming during the cooking. Rub through a sieve, cool, and pour into one-pound baking-powder boxes. Pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand four hours. If there is not sufficient mixture to fill two boxes, add water to make up the desired quantity. Serve as a substitute for cranberry sauce or jelly. Frozen Apricots 1 can apricots 1½ cups sugar Water Drain apricots, and cut in small pieces. To the syrup add enough water to make four cups, and cook with sugar five minutes; strain, add apricots, cool, and freeze. Peaches may be used instead of apricots. To make a richer dessert, add the whip from two cups cream when frozen to a mush, and continue freezing. Pineapple Cream 2 cups water 1 cup sugar 1 can grated pineapple 2 cups cream Make syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes; strain, cool, add pineapple, and freeze to a mush. Fold in whip from cream; let stand thirty minutes before serving. Serve in frappé glasses and garnish with candied pineapple. Cardinal Punch 4 cups water 2 cups sugar ⅔ cup orange juice ⅓ cup lemon juice ¼ cup brandy ¼ cup Curaçoa ¼ cup tea infusion Make syrup as for Lemon Ice, add fruit juice and tea, freeze to a mush; add strong liquors and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses. Punch Hollandaise 4 cups water 1⅓ cups sugar ⅓ cup lemon juice Rind one lemon 1 can grated pineapple ¼ cup brandy 2 tablespoons gin Cook sugar, water, and lemon rind fifteen minutes, add lemon juice and pineapple, cool, strain, freeze to a mush, add strong liquors, and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses on a plate covered with a doily. Victoria Punch 3½ cups water 2 cups sugar ½ cup lemon juice ½ cup orange juice Grated rind two oranges 1 cup angelica wine 1 cup cider 1½ tablespoons gin Prepare same as Cardinal Punch; strain before freezing, to remove orange rind. Lenox Punch 2 cups water ¾ cup sugar ⅔ tumbler currant jelly Ice 1 cup orange juice ½ cup lemon juice 2 bottles ginger ale ⅓ cup brandy Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes. Add jelly, and, as soon as dissolved, add a piece of ice to cool mixture; then add fruit juices, ale, and brandy. Color red, freeze to a mush, serve in glasses, and insert in each glass a small sprig of holly with berries. German Punch 2 cups water 1¾ cups tomatoes 3 apples, cored, pared, and chopped 1 cup sugar 3 tablespoons lemon juice Piece ginger root 3 tablespoons Maraschino Mix ingredients, except cordial, and cook thirty-five minutes. Rub through a sieve, add Maraschino, and freeze to a mush. London Sherbet 2 cups sugar 2 cups water ⅓ cup seeded and finely cut raisins ¾ cup orange juice 3 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup fruit syrup ¼ grated nutmeg ¼ cup port wine Whites 3 eggs Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; pour over raisins, cool, and add fruit syrup and nutmeg; freeze to a mush, then add wine and whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue freezing. Serve in glasses. Fruit syrup may be used which has been left from canned peaches, pears, or strawberries. Roman Punch 4 cups water 2 cups sugar ½ cup lemon juice ½ cup orange juice ½ cup tea infusion ½ cup rum Prepare and freeze same as Cardinal Punch. Coup Sicilienne 1 shredded pineapple 3 oranges (pulp) 3 bananas sliced 2 tablespoons Maraschino 1 tablespoon lemon juice Few grains salt Powdered sugar Mix ingredients, sweeten to taste, and chill. Serve in champagne glasses having glasses two-thirds full. Cover fruit to fill glasses with Strawberry Ice II and garnish with strawberries and angelica. Coup a l’Ananas Cut canned sliced pineapple in pieces, pour over pineapple syrup to which is added Orange Curaçoa, allowing one-half as much syrup as fruit, cover and let stand one hour. Fill champagne glasses one-third full, add vanilla ice cream to fill glasses, and garnish with candied cherries and candied pineapple cut in pieces. Vanilla Ice Cream I (Philadelphia) 1 quart thin cream ¾ cup sugar 1½ tablespoons vanilla Mix ingredients, and freeze. [Illustration: COUP SICILIENNE. COUP A L’ANANAS.—_Page 442._ ] [Illustration: COFFEE ICE CREAM SERVED IN HALF OF CANTALOUPE.—_Page 445._ VANILLA ICE CREAM SERVED IN HALF OF CANTALOUPE WITH FRUIT GARNISH.—_Page 442._ ] [Illustration: BOMBE GLACÉE.—_Page 452._ ] [Illustration: JUNKET ICE CREAM WITH PEACHES.—_Page 448._ ] Vanilla Ice Cream II 2 cups scalded milk 1 tablespoon flour 1 cup sugar 1 egg ⅛ teaspoon salt 1 quart thin cream 2 tablespoons vanilla Mix flour, sugar, and salt, add egg slightly beaten, and milk gradually; cook over hot water twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first; should custard have curdled appearance, it will disappear in freezing. When cool, add cream and flavoring; strain and freeze. Chocolate Sauce I (To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream) 1½ cups water ½ cup sugar 6 tablespoons grated chocolate 1 tablespoon arrowroot ½ cup cold water Few grains salt ½ teaspoon vanilla Boil water and sugar five minutes. Mix chocolate with arrowroot to which water has been added. Combine mixtures, add salt, and boil three minutes. Flavor with vanilla, and serve hot. Chocolate Sauce II 1 square Baker’s chocolate 1 cup sugar 1 tablespoon butter ⅓ cup water ½ teaspoon vanilla Melt chocolate; add butter, sugar, and water. Let boil fifteen minutes, cool slightly, and add vanilla. Coffee Sauce (To be served with Vanilla Ice Cream) 1½ cups milk ½ cup ground coffee ⅓ cup sugar ¾ tablespoon arrowroot Few grains salt Scald milk with coffee, and let stand twenty minutes. Mix remaining ingredients, and pour on gradually the hot infusion which has been strained. Cook five minutes, and serve hot. Vanilla Ice Cream Croquettes Shape Vanilla Ice Cream in individual moulds, roll in macaroon dust made by pounding and sifting dry macaroons. Chocolate Ice Cream I 1 quart thin cream 1 cup sugar Few grains salt 1½ squares Baker’s chocolate or ¼ cup prepared cocoa 1 tablespoon vanilla Melt chocolate, and dilute with hot water to pour easily, add to cream; then add sugar, salt, and flavoring, and freeze. Chocolate Ice Cream II Use recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II. Melt two squares Baker’s chocolate, by placing in a small saucepan set in a larger saucepan of boiling water, and pour hot custard slowly on chocolate; then cool before adding cream. Strawberry Ice Cream I 3 pints thin cream 2 boxes berries 2 cups sugar Few grains salt Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, and squeeze through cheese-cloth; then add salt. Freeze cream to the consistency of a mush, add gradually fruit juice, and finish freezing. Rich Jersey milk may be substituted for cream. Strawberry Ice Cream II 3 pints thin cream 2 boxes strawberries 1¾ cups sugar 2 cups milk 1½ tablespoons arrowroot Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, let stand one hour, mash, and rub through strainer. Scald one and one-half cups milk; dilute arrowroot with remaining milk, add to hot milk, and cook ten minutes in double boiler; cool, add cream, freeze to a mush, add fruit, and finish freezing. Orange Ice Cream 1 cup heavy cream 1 cup thin cream 2 cups orange juice Sugar Add cream slowly to orange juice, sweeten to taste, and freeze. Serve with canned strawberries or fresh fruit mashed and sweetened. Pineapple Ice Cream 3 pints cream ½ cup sugar 1 can grated pineapple Add pineapple to cream, let stand thirty minutes; strain, add sugar, and freeze. Coffee Ice Cream 1 quart cream 1½ cups milk ⅓ cup Mocha coffee 1¼ cups sugar ¼ teaspoon salt Yolks 4 eggs Scald milk with coffee, add one cup sugar; mix egg yolks slightly beaten with one-fourth cup sugar, and salt; combine mixtures, cook over hot water until thickened, add one cup cream, and let stand on back of range twenty-five minutes; cool, add remaining cream, and strain through double cheese-cloth; freeze. Coffee Ice Cream may be served with Maraschino cherries or in halves of cantaloupes. Caramel Ice Cream 1 quart cream 2 cups milk 1⅓ cups sugar 1 egg 1 tablespoon flour ⅛ teaspoon salt 1½ tablespoons vanilla Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half sugar in custard; remaining half caramelize, and add slowly to hot custard. See Caramelization of Sugar, page 586. Burnt Almond Ice Cream It is made same as Caramel Ice Cream, with the addition of one cup finely chopped blanched almonds. Brown Bread Ice Cream 3 pints cream 1¼ cups dried brown bread crumbs ⅞ cup sugar ¼ teaspoon salt Soak crumbs in one quart cream, let stand fifteen minutes, rub through sieve, add sugar, salt, and remaining cream; then freeze. Bisque Ice Cream Make custard as for Vanilla Ice Cream II, add one quart cream, one tablespoon vanilla, and one cup hickory nut or English walnut meats finely chopped. Burnt Walnut Bisque 2 cups scalded milk Yolks 3 eggs 1 cup sugar ⅔ cup chopped walnut meats 1 cup heavy cream ¾ tablespoon vanilla Few grains salt Make custard of milk, eggs, one-third of the sugar, and salt. Caramelize remaining sugar, add nut meats, and turn into a slightly buttered pan. Cool, pound, and pass through a purée strainer. Add to custard, cool, then add one cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff, and vanilla. Freeze and mould. Praline Ice Cream 3 pints cream 1⅓ cups sugar 1 cup Jordan almonds ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon vanilla Blanch almonds cut in pieces crosswise, and bake in a shallow pan until well browned, shaking pan frequently; then finely chop. Caramelize one-half of the sugar, and add slowly to two cups of the cream scalded. As soon as sugar is melted, add nuts, remaining sugar, and salt. Cool, add remaining cream, and freeze. A few grains salt is always an improvement to any ice cream mixture. Macaroon Ice Cream 1 quart cream 1 cup macaroons ¾ cup sugar 1 tablespoon vanilla Dry, pound, and measure macaroons; add to cream, sugar, and vanilla, then freeze. Banana Ice Cream 1 quart cream 4 bananas 1⅓ tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup sugar A few grains salt Remove skins and scrape bananas, then force through a sieve; add remaining ingredients; then freeze. Ginger Ice Cream To recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half quantity vanilla, add one-half cup Canton ginger cut in small pieces, three tablespoons ginger syrup, and two tablespoons Sherry wine; then freeze. Pistachio Ice Cream Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using for flavoring one tablespoon vanilla and one teaspoon almond extract; color with Burnett’s Leaf Green. Pistachio Bisque To Pistachio Ice Cream add one-half cup each of pounded macaroons, chopped almonds, and peanuts. Mould, and serve with or without Claret Sauce. Fig Ice Cream 3 cups milk 1 cup sugar Yolks 5 eggs 1 teaspoon salt 1 lb. figs, finely chopped 1½ cups heavy cream Whites 5 eggs 1 tablespoon vanilla 2 tablespoons brandy Make custard of yolks of eggs, sugar, and milk; strain, add figs, cool, and flavor. Add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and heavy cream beaten until stiff; freeze and mould. Junket Ice Cream with Peaches 4 cups lukewarm milk 1 cup heavy cream 1¼ cups sugar ⅛ teaspoon salt 1½ Junket Tablets 1 tablespoon cold water 1 tablespoon vanilla 1 teaspoon almond extract Green Coloring 1 can peaches Mix first four ingredients, and add junket tablets dissolved in cold water. Turn into a pudding-dish and let stand until set. Add flavoring and coloring. Freeze, mould, and serve garnished with halves of peaches, filling cavities with halves of blanched almonds. Turn peaches into a saucepan, add one-third cup sugar, and cook slowly until syrup is thick. Cool before garnishing ice cream. Violet Ice Cream 1 quart cream ¾ cup sugar Few grains salt ⅓ cup Yvette Cordial 1 small bunch violets Violet coloring Mix first four ingredients. Remove stems from violets, and pound violets in a mortar until well macerated, then strain through cheese-cloth. Add extract to first mixture; color, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with fresh or candied violets; the light purple cultivated violets should be used and the result will be most gratifying. Neapolitan or Harlequin Ice Cream Two kinds of ice cream and an ice moulded in a brick. Baked Alaska Whites 6 eggs 6 tablespoons powdered sugar 2 quart brick of ice cream Thin sheet sponge cake Make meringue of eggs and sugar as in Meringue I, cover a board with white paper, lay on sponge cake, turn ice cream on cake (which should extend one-half inch beyond cream), cover with meringue, and spread smoothly. Place on oven grate and brown quickly in hot oven. The board, paper, cake, and meringue are poor conductors of heat, and prevent the cream from melting. Slip from paper on ice cream platter. Pudding Glacé 2 cups milk ⅔ cup raisins 1 cup sugar 1 egg 1 tablespoon flour ¼ teaspoon salt 1 quart thin cream ½ cup almonds ½ cup candied pineapple ⅓ cup Canton ginger 3 tablespoons wine Scald raisins in milk fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of milk, egg, sugar, flour, and salt; strain, cool, add pineapple, ginger cut in small pieces, nuts finely chopped, wine, and cream; then freeze. The raisins should be rinsed and saved for a pudding. Frozen Pudding I 2½ cups milk 1 cup sugar ⅛ teaspoonful salt 2 eggs 1 cup heavy cream ¼ cup rum 1 cup candied fruit, cherries, pineapples, pears, and apricots Cut fruit in small pieces, and soak two or three hours in brandy to cover, which prevents fruit from freezing; make a custard of milk, sugar, salt, and eggs; strain, cool, add cream and rum, then freeze. Fill a brick mould with alternate layers of the cream and fruit; pack in salt and ice and let stand two hours. Frozen Pudding II 1 quart cream ¾ cup sugar ¼ cup rum 1 cup candied fruit 8 lady fingers Cut fruit in pieces, and soak several hours in brandy to cover. Mix cream, sugar, and rum, then freeze. Line a two-quart melon mould with lady fingers, crust side down; fill with alternate layers of the cream and fruit, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Brandied peaches cut in pieces, with some of their syrup added, greatly improve the pudding. Frozen Tom and Jerry 2 cups milk ¾ cup sugar Yolks 6 eggs ⅛ teaspoon salt 2½ cups cream 2 tablespoons rum 1 tablespoon brandy Make a custard of first four ingredients; strain, cool, add cream, and freeze to a mush. Add rum and brandy, and finish the freezing. University Pudding Prepare same as Frozen Tom and Jerry. Freeze to a mush, add one cup mixed fruit which has been soaked in brandy to cover for twelve hours, using glacé cherries, Sultana raisins, sliced citron, and candied pineapple; then finish freezing. Serve in small beer jugs, and garnish with cream, whipped, sweetened, and flavored. Covington Cream ¾ cup sugar ½ cup Formosa tea infusion ⅓ cup rum 1 quart cream Mix ingredients, and freeze to a mush. Serve in frappé glasses. Delmonico Ice Cream with Angel Food 2 cups milk ¾ cup sugar Yolks 7 eggs ⅛ teaspoon salt 2½ cups thin cream 1 tablespoon vanilla 1 teaspoon lemon Make custard of milk, sugar, eggs, and salt; cool, strain, and flavor; whip cream, remove whip; there should be two quarts; add to custard, and freeze. Serve plain or with Angel Food. Angel Food Whites 3 eggs ½ cup powdered sugar 1 quart cream whip 1½ teaspoons vanilla Beat eggs until stiff, fold in sugar, cream whip, and flavoring; line a mould with Delmonico Ice Cream, fill with the mixture, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Manhattan Pudding 1½ cups orange juice ¼ cup lemon juice Sugar 1 pint heavy cream ½ cup powdered sugar ½ tablespoon vanilla ⅔ cup chopped walnut meats Mix fruit juices and sweeten to taste. Turn mixture in brick mould. Whip cream, and add sugar, vanilla, and nut meats; pour over the first mixture to overflow mould; cover with buttered paper, fit on cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours. Sultana Roll with Claret Sauce Line one-pound baking-powder boxes with Pistachio Ice Cream; sprinkle with Sultana raisins which have been soaked one hour in brandy; fill centres with Vanilla Ice Cream or whipped cream, sweetened, and flavored with vanilla; cover with Pistachio Ice Cream; pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours. Claret Sauce 1 cup sugar ¼ cup water ⅓ cup claret Boil sugar and water eight minutes; cool slightly, and add claret. Angel Parfait 1 cup sugar ¾ cup water Whites 3 eggs 1 pint heavy cream 1 tablespoon vanilla Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour slowly on the beaten whites of eggs, and continue the beating until mixture is cool. Add cream beaten until stiff, and vanilla; then freeze. Café Parfait 1 cup milk ¼ cup Mocha coffee Yolks 3 eggs ⅛ teaspoon salt 1 cup sugar 3 cups thin cream Scald milk with coffee, and add one-half the sugar; without straining, use this mixture for making custard, with eggs, salt, and remaining sugar; add one cup cream and let stand thirty minutes; cool, strain through double cheese-cloth, add remaining cream, and freeze. Line a mould, fill with Italian Meringue, cover, pack in salt and ice, using two parts crushed ice to one part rock salt, and let stand three hours. Italian Meringue ½ cup sugar ¼ cup water 1 tablespoon gelatine or ¼ teaspoon granulated gelatine Whites 3 eggs 1 cup thin cream ½ tablespoon vanilla Make syrup by boiling sugar and water; pour slowly on beaten whites of eggs, and continue beating. Place in pan of ice-water, and beat until cold; dissolve gelatine in small quantity boiling water; strain into mixture; whip cream, fold in whip, and flavor. Bombe Glacée Line a mould with sherbet or water ice; fill with ice cream or thin Charlotte Russe mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. The mould may be lined with ice cream. Pomegranate or Raspberry Ice and Vanilla or Macaroon Ice Cream make a good combination. Noisette Bomb Strawberry Ice I ½ cup sugar ½ cup chopped blanched filberts ¾ cup hot caramel syrup Yolks 4 eggs 1⅓ cups heavy cream ½ tablespoon vanilla Few grains salt Caramelize sugar, add nut meats, turn into a buttered pan, cool, then pound in mortar and put through a purée strainer. Beat egg yolks until thick, add gradually caramel syrup, and cook in double boiler until mixture thickens, then beat until cold. Fold in cream beaten until stiff. Then add prepared nut meats, vanilla, and salt. Line melon mould with ice, turn in mixture, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours. Nesselrode Pudding 3 cups milk 1½ cups sugar Yolks 5 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 1 pint thin cream ¼ cup pineapple syrup 1½ cups prepared French chestnuts Make custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool, add cream, pineapple syrup, and chestnuts; then freeze. To prepare chestnuts, shell, cook in boiling water until soft, and force through a strainer. Line a two-quart melon mould with part of mixture; to remainder add one-half cup candied fruit cut in small pieces, one-quarter cup Sultana raisins, and eight chestnuts broken in pieces, first soaked several hours in Maraschino syrup. Fill mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with Maraschino syrup. Pistachio Fruit Ice Cream 3 cups milk 1½ cups sugar Yolks 5 eggs ½ teaspoon salt 1 pint heavy cream 1½ cups chestnut purée 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 tablespoon vanilla ¾ cup glacé fruits Maraschino Leaf Green Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool; add cream, chestnut purée, flavoring, and glacé fruit cut in pieces and previously soaked in Maraschino three hours. Color with leaf green; freeze, mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with =Fruit Sauce.= Drain syrup from a pint jar of canned strawberry, raspberry, or pineapple, heat to boiling-point, thicken slightly with arrowroot, and color with fruit red. Nougat Ice Cream 3 cups milk 1 cup sugar Yolks 5 eggs 1 teaspoon salt 1½ cups heavy cream Whites 5 eggs ⅓ cup, each, pistachio, filbert, English walnut, and almond meats 1 teaspoon almond extract 1 tablespoon vanilla Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, and cool. Add heavy cream beaten until stiff, whites of eggs beaten until stiff, nut meats finely chopped, and flavoring; then freeze. Orange Pekoe Ice Cream 2 cups milk 3 tablespoons Orange Pekoe tea 1½ cups sugar Yolks 4 eggs ¼ teaspoon salt Grated rind 1 orange 1 pint heavy cream Scald milk to which tea had been added, and let stand five minutes. Add sugar, and egg yolks slightly beaten, and cook until mixture thickens. Strain, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with Candied Orange Peel (p. 547). Orange Delicious 2 cups sugar 1 cup water 2 cups orange juice 1 cup cream Yolks two eggs 1 cup heavy cream ¼ cup shredded candied orange peel Boil sugar and water eight minutes, then add orange juice. Scald cream, add yolks of eggs, and cook over hot water until mixture thickens. Cool, add to first mixture with heavy cream beaten stiff. Freeze; when nearly frozen, add orange peel. Line a melon mould with Orange Ice, fill with Orange Delicious, pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours. Strawberry Mousse 1 quart thin cream 1 box strawberries 1 cup sugar ¼ box gelatine (scant) or 1¼ tablespoons granulated gelatine 2 tablespoons cold water 3 tablespoons hot water Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, and let stand one hour; mash, and rub through a fine sieve; add gelatine soaked in cold and dissolved in boiling water. Set in pan of ice-water and stir until it begins to thicken; then fold in whip from cream, put in mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours. Raspberries may be used in place of strawberries. Coffee Mousse Make same as Strawberry Mousse, using one cup boiled coffee in place of fruit juice. Pineapple Mousse 1 tablespoon granulated gelatine ¼ cup cold water 1 cup pineapple syrup 2 tablespoons lemon juice 1 cup sugar 1 quart cream Heat one can pineapple, and drain. To one cup of the syrup, add gelatine soaked in cold water, lemon juice, and sugar. Strain and cool. As mixture thickens, fold in the whip from cream. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours. Chocolate Mousse 2 squares Baker’s chocolate ½ cup powdered sugar 1 cup cream ¾ tablespoon granulated gelatine 3 tablespoons boiling water ¾ cup sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla 1 quart cream Melt chocolate, add powdered sugar, and gradually one cup cream. Stir over fire until boiling-point is reached, then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water, sugar, and vanilla. Strain mixture into a bowl, set in a pan of ice-water, stir constantly until mixture thickens, then fold in the whip from remaining cream. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours. Maple Parfait 4 eggs 1 cup hot maple syrup 1 pint thick cream Beat eggs slightly, and pour on slowly maple syrup. Cook until mixture thickens, cool, and add cream beaten until stiff. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours. Mousse Marron 1 quart vanilla ice cream ½ cup sugar ¼ cup water Whites two eggs 1 teaspoon granulated gelatine 1½ cups prepared French chestnuts 1 pint cream ½ tablespoon vanilla Cook sugar and water five minutes, pour on to beaten whites of eggs, dissolve gelatine in one and one-half tablespoons boiling water, and add to first mixture. Set in a pan of ice-water, and stir until cold; add chestnuts, and fold in whip from cream and vanilla. Line a mould with ice cream, and fill with mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours. Cardinal Mousse, with Iced Madeira Sauce Line a mould with Pomegranate Ice; fill with Italian Meringue made of three-fourths cup sugar, one-third cup hot water, whites two eggs, and one and one-half teaspoons granulated gelatine dissolved in two tablespoons boiling water. Beat until cold, and fold in whip from two cups cream; flavor with one teaspoon vanilla, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours. Iced Madeira Sauce ¼ cup orange juice 2 tablespoons lemon juice ½ cup Madeira wine ½ cup sugar 1 cup boiling water Whites 2 eggs Freeze fruit juice and wine; boil sugar and water, pour on slowly to beaten whites of eggs, set in pan of salted ice-water, and stir until cold. Add to frozen mixture. Cocoanut Naples, Sauterne Sauce Shape vanilla ice cream in individual moulds, and roll in shredded cocoanut; serve with Sauterne Sauce 1 cup sugar ½ cup water 4 tablespoons Sauterne Burnett’s Leaf Green Make same as Claret Sauce, and color with leaf green. Ice à la Margot Serve vanilla ice cream in champagne glasses. Cover ice cream with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored with pistachio, and tinted very light green. Garnish with pistachio nuts or Malaga grapes cut in halves. Coup aux Marrons Break marron glacé in pieces, flavor with rum, cover, and let stand one hour. Put in champagne glasses, allowing one and one-half marrons to each glass, cover with vanilla ice cream, and garnish with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and candied rose leaves. Plombière Glacé Cover the bottom of small paper cases with vanilla ice cream, sprinkle ice cream with marron glacé broken in pieces, arrange lady fingers at equal distances, and allow them to extend one inch above cases. Pile whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, in the centre and garnish with marron glacé and candied violets or glacé cherries. Demi-glacé aux Fraises Line a brick mould with Vanilla Ice Cream, put in layer of lady fingers, and fill the centre with preserved strawberries or large fresh fruit cut in halves; cover with ice cream, pack in salt and ice, and let stand one hour. For ice cream, make custard of two and one-half cups milk, yolks four eggs, one cup sugar, and one-fourth teaspoon salt; strain, cool, add one cup heavy cream and one tablespoon vanilla; then freeze. Mazarine Bake Brioche in a Charlotte Russe mould or individual tins, cool, cut a slice from top of cake or cakes, and remove centre or centres, leaving a wall or walls one-half inch thick. Fill with rich Vanilla Ice Cream, invert on serving dish, and pour over =Apricot Marmalade.= Drain one can apricots and force the fruit through a strainer. Cook syrup until sufficiently reduced to add to fruit, and make of consistency of marmalade. Add a few drops lemon juice and sugar if necessary. Decorate top with halves of apricots, glacé cherries, and whipped cream. Flowering Ice Cream Line two and one-half inch flower-pots with paraffine paper. Fill with ice cream, cover cream with grated vanilla chocolate to represent earth, and insert a flower in each. Concord Cream 1 pint cream 1¼ cups grape juice ⅓ cup sugar Lemon or fresh lime juice ½ cup heavy cream Pistachio nuts, finely chopped Mix cream, grape juice, and sugar. Add lemon or lime juice to taste. Freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with heavy cream beaten until stiff, sweetened, and flavored. Sprinkle cream with nuts. German Ice Cream Mix one and one-fourth cups sugar, one tablespoon flour, and one-fourth teaspoon salt. Add two eggs slightly beaten and two cups scalded milk. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens, then add two squares melted chocolate, and cool. Add three cups cream and one tablespoon vanilla. Strain and freeze. Just before serving add three cups zweiback dried and broken in small pieces. Frozen Orange Soufflé 1½ cups orange juice 1½ cups sugar 2 tablespoons lemon juice Yolks 5 eggs 1½ teaspoons granulated gelatine 3 tablespoons boiling water 2½ cups cream Candied orange peel Pistachio nuts Mix fruit juice, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens, then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water. Cool, freeze to a mush, add whip from cream, and continue freezing. Mould, and serve garnished with candied orange peel and pistachio nuts. Biscuit Tortoni in Boxes 1 cup dried macaroons, finely crushed 2 cups thin cream ½ cup sugar ⅓ cup sherry 1 pint heavy cream Soak macaroons in thin cream one hour, add sugar, wine, and freeze to a mush; then add heavy cream beaten stiff. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Trim lady fingers, arrange on plate in form of box. Keep in place with ribbon one-half inch wide, and fasten at one corner by tying ribbon in a bow. Garnish opposite corner with flowers of same color as ribbon. Remove ice cream from brick, cut a slice three-fourths inch thick, and place it in box. Frozen Soufflé Glacé 4 eggs Grated rind 1 lemon ⅔ cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice ½ cup Madeira wine Few grains salt ⅔ cup heavy cream Beat yolks of eggs slightly; add lemon juice, grated rind, wine, sugar, and salt; cook until mixture thickens, stirring constantly. Add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and when well mixed, set in a pan of ice-water to cool, stirring occasionally. Beat cream until stiff, and add. Fill small paper cases with mixture, cover with macaroon dust, and set in a tin mould with tight-fitting cover. Pack mould in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Frozen Plum Pudding 2 cups milk 1 cup sugar Yolks 6 eggs ¼ teaspoon salt ¼ cup sherry 2½ cups cream ¾ cup candied fruit ½ cup almonds, blanched and chopped ⅓ cup Sultana raisins ½ cup pounded macaroons Make custard of milk, one-half the sugar, egg yolks, and salt. Caramelize the remaining sugar and add. Strain, cool, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. If a baked ice cream is desired, use whites of eggs for meringue, Baked Alaska (see p. 448). Frozen Charlotte Glacé Mould ice cream in brick form or one-half pound baking-powder boxes. Remove from mould or moulds, and surround with lady fingers, trimmed to come to top of cream. Cover top with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and pipe cream between lady fingers. Baking-powder boxes are used when individual service is desired, the cream being cut in halves crosswise.

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. CHAPTER I 3. 1. Proteid (nitrogenous or albuminous) 4. 3. Fats and oils 5. 2. Water 6. CHAPTER II 7. 2. Use same test for uncooked mixtures, allowing one minute for bread to 8. 1. =By Freezing.= Foods which spoil readily are frozen for 9. 2. =By Refrigeration.= Foods so preserved are kept in cold storage. The 10. 3. =By Canning.= Which is preserving in air-tight glass jars, or tin 11. 5. =By Exclusion of Air.= Foods are preserved by exclusion of air in 12. 6. =By Drying.= Drying consists in evaporation of nearly all moisture, 13. 7. =By Evaporation.= There are examples where considerable moisture 14. 8. =By Salting.= There are two kinds of salting,—dry, and corning or 15. 9. =By Smoking.= Some foods, after being salted, are hung in a closed 16. 10. =By Pickling.= Vinegar, to which salt is added, and sometimes sugar 17. 12. =By Antiseptics.= The least wholesome way is by the use of 18. CHAPTER III 19. CHAPTER IV 20. CHAPTER V 21. CHAPTER VI 22. CHAPTER VII 23. CHAPTER VIII 24. CHAPTER IX 25. CHAPTER X 26. CHAPTER XI 27. CHAPTER XII 28. CHAPTER XIII 29. CHAPTER XIV 30. CHAPTER XV 31. CHAPTER XVI 32. CHAPTER XVII 33. CHAPTER XVIII 34. CHAPTER XIX 35. CHAPTER XX 36. CHAPTER XXI 37. CHAPTER XXII 38. CHAPTER XXIII 39. CHAPTER XXIV 40. CHAPTER XXV 41. CHAPTER XXVI 42. CHAPTER XXVII 43. CHAPTER XXVIII 44. CHAPTER XXIX 45. CHAPTER XXX 46. CHAPTER XXXI 47. CHAPTER XXXII 48. CHAPTER XXXIII 49. CHAPTER XXXIV 50. CHAPTER XXXV 51. CHAPTER XXXVI 52. 1. Pick over strawberries, place in colander, pour over cold water, 53. 2. Pick over selected strawberries, place in colander, pour over cold 54. 1. Wipe orange and cut in halves crosswise. Place one-half on a fruit 55. 2. Peel an orange and remove as much of the white portion as possible. 56. 3. Remove peel from an orange in such a way that there remains a 57. CHAPTER XXXVII 58. CHAPTER XXXVIII 59. 7. Superscripts are denoted by a caret before a single superscript 60. 8. Subscripts are denoted by an underscore before a series of

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