The Boston cooking-school cook book by Fannie Merritt Farmer
2. Water
3956 words | Chapter 5
The chief office of proteids is to build and repair tissues. They
furnish energy, but at greater cost than carbohydrates, fats, and oils.
They contain nitrogen, carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, and sulphur or
phosphorus, and include all forms of animal foods (excepting fats and
glycogen) and some vegetable foods. Examples: milk, cheese, eggs, meat,
fish, cereals, peas, beans, and lentils. The principal constituent of
proteid food is albumen. Albumen as found in food takes different names,
but has the same chemical composition; as, _albumen_ in eggs, _fibrin_
in meat, _casein_ in milk and cheese, _vegetable casein_ or _legumen_ in
peas, beans, and lentils; and _gluten_ in wheat. To this same class
belongs gelatin.
The chief office of the carbohydrates is to furnish energy and maintain
heat. They contain carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen, and include foods
containing starch and sugar. Examples: vegetables, fruits, cereals,
sugars, and gums.
The chief office of fats and oils is to store energy and heat to be used
as needed, and constitute the adipose tissues of the body. Examples:
butter, cream, fat of meat, fish, cereals, nuts, and the berry of the
olive-tree.
The chief office of mineral matter is to furnish the necessary salts
which are found in all animal and vegetable foods. Examples: sodium
chloride (common salt); carbonates, sulphates and phosphates of sodium,
potassium, and magnesium; besides calcium phosphates and iron.
Water constitutes about two-thirds the weight of the body, and is in all
tissues and fluids; therefore its abundant use is necessary. One of the
greatest errors in diet is neglect to take enough water; while it is
found in all animal and vegetable food, the amount is insufficient.
CORRECT PROPORTIONS OF FOOD
Age, sex, occupation, climate, and season must determine the diet of a
person in normal condition.
Liquid food (milk or milk in preparation with the various prepared foods
on the market) should constitute the diet of a child for the first
eighteen months. After the teeth appear, by which time ferments have
been developed for the digestion of starchy foods, entire wheat bread,
baked potatoes, cereals, meat broths, and occasionally boiled eggs may
be given. If mothers would use Dr. Johnson’s Educators in place of the
various sweet crackers, children would be as well pleased and better
nourished; with a glass of milk they form a supper suited to the needs
of little ones, and experience has shown that children seldom tire of
them. The diet should be gradually increased by the addition of cooked
fruits, vegetables, and simple desserts; the third or fourth year fish
and meat may be introduced, if given sparingly. Always avoid salted
meats, coarse vegetables (beets, carrots, and turnips), cheese, fried
food, pastry, rich desserts, confections, condiments, tea, coffee, and
iced water. For school children the diet should be varied and abundant,
constantly bearing in mind that this is a period of great mental and
physical growth. Where children have broken down, supposedly from
over-work, the cause has often been traced to impoverished diet. It must
not be forgotten that digestive processes go on so rapidly that the
stomach is soon emptied. Thanks to the institutor of the school
luncheon-counter!
The daily average ration of an adult requires
4½ oz. proteid
2 oz. fat
18 oz. starch
5 pints water
About one-third of the water is taken in our food, the remainder as a
beverage. To keep in health and do the best mental and physical work,
authorities agree that a mixed diet is suited for temperate climates,
although sound arguments appear from the vegetarian. Women, even though
they do the same amount of work as men, as a rule require less food.
Brain workers should take their proteid in a form easily digested. In
consideration of this fact, fish and eggs form desirable substitutes for
meat. The working man needs quantity as well as quality, that the
stomach may have something to act upon. Corned beef, cabbage,
brown-bread, and pastry, will not overtax his digestion. In old age the
digestive organs lessen in activity, and the diet should be almost as
simple as that of a child, increasing the amount of carbohydrates and
decreasing the amount of proteids and fat. Many diseases which occur
after middle life are due to eating and drinking such foods as were
indulged in during vigorous manhood.
WATER (H_{2}O)
Water is a transparent, odorless, tasteless liquid. It is derived from
five sources,—rains, rivers, surface-water or shallow wells, deep wells,
and springs. Water is never found pure in nature; it is nearly pure when
gathered in an open field, after a heavy rainfall, or from springs. For
town and city supply, surface-water is furnished by some adjacent pond
or lake. Samples of such water are carefully and frequently analyzed, to
make sure that it is not polluted with disease germs.
The hardness of water depends upon the amount of salts of lime and
magnesia which it contains. Soft water is free from objectionable salts,
and is preferable for household purposes. Hard water may be softened by
boiling, or by the addition of a small amount of bicarbonate of soda
(NaHCO_{3}).
Water freezes at a temperature of 32° F., boils at 212° F.; when bubbles
appear on the surface and burst, the boiling-point is reached. In high
altitudes water boils at a lower temperature. From 32° to 65° F. water
is termed cold; from 65° to 92° F., tepid; 92° to 100° F., warm; over
that temperature, hot. Boiled water is freed from all organic
impurities, and salts of lime are precipitated: it does not ferment, and
is a valuable antiseptic. Hot water is more stimulating than cold, and
is of use taken on an empty stomach, while at a temperature of from 60°
to 95° F. it is used as an emetic; 90° F. being the most favorable
temperature.
Distilled water is chemically pure and is always used for medicinal
purposes. It is flat and insipid to the taste, having been deprived of
its atmospheric gases.
There are many charged, carbonated, and mineral spring waters bottled
and put on the market; many of these are used as agreeable table
beverages. Examples: Soda Water, Apollinaris, Poland, Seltzer, and
Vichy. Some contain minerals of medicinal value. Examples: Lithia,
saline, and sulphur waters.
SALTS
Of all salts found in the body, the most abundant and valuable is sodium
chloride (NaCl), common salt; it exists in all tissues, secretions, and
fluids of the body, with the exception of enamel of the teeth. The
amount found in food is not always sufficient; therefore salt is used as
a condiment. It assists digestion, inasmuch as it furnishes chlorine for
hydrochloric acid found in gastric juice.
Common salt is obtained from evaporation of spring and sea-water, also
from mines. Our supply of salt obtained by evaporation comes chiefly
from Michigan and New York; mined salt from Louisiana and Kansas.
Salt is a great preservative; advantage is taken of this in salting meat
and fish.
Other salts—lime, phosphorus, magnesia, potash, sulphur, and iron—are
obtained in sufficient quantity from food we eat and water we drink. In
young children, perfect formation of bones and teeth depends upon
phosphorus and lime taken into the system; these are found in meat and
fish, but abound in cereals.
STARCH (C_{6}H_{10}O_{5})
Starch is a white, glistening powder; it is largely distributed
throughout the vegetable kingdom, being found most abundantly in cereals
and potatoes. Being a force-producer and heat-giver it forms one of the
most important foods. Alone it cannot sustain life, but must be taken in
combination with foods which build and repair tissues.
=Test for Starch.= A weak solution of iodine added to cold cooked starch
gives an intense blue color.
Starch is insoluble in cold water, and soluble to but a small extent in
boiling water. Cold water separates starch-grains, boiling water causes
them to swell and burst, thus forming a paste.
Starch subjected to dry heat is changed to _dextrine_
(C_{6}H_{10}O_{5}), British gum. Dextrine subjected to heat plus an acid
or a ferment is changed to _dextrose_ (C_{6}H_{12}O_{6}). Dextrose
occurs in ripe fruit, honey, sweet wine, and as a manufactured product.
When grain is allowed to germinate for malting purposes, starch is
changed to dextrine and dextrose. In fermentation, dextrose is changed
to alcohol (C_{2}H_{5}HO) and carbon dioxide (CO_{2}). Examples: bread
making, vinegar, and distilled liquors.
Glycogen, animal starch, is found in many animal tissues and in some
fungi. Examples: in liver of meat and oysters.
Raw starch is not digestible; consequently all foods containing starch
should be subjected to boiling water or dry heat, and thoroughly cooked.
Starch is manufactured from wheat, corn, and potatoes. =Corn-starch= is
manufactured from Indian corn. =Arrowroot=, the purest form of starch,
is obtained from two or three species of the Maranta plant, which grows
in the West Indies and other tropical countries. Bermuda arrowroot is
most highly esteemed. =Tapioca= is starch obtained from tuberous roots
of the bitter cassava, native of South America. =Sago= is starch
obtained from sago palms, native of India.
SUGAR (C_{12}H_{22}O_{11})
Sugar is a crystalline substance, differing from starch by its sweet
taste and solubility in cold water. As food, its uses are the same as
starch; all starch must be converted into sugar before it can be
assimilated.
The principal kinds of sugar are: cane sugar or _sucrose_, grape sugar
or _glucose_ (C_{6}H_{12}O_{6}), milk sugar or _lactose_
(C_{12}H_{22}O_{11}), and fruit sugar or _levulose_ (C_{6}H_{12}O_{6}).
=Cane sugar= is obtained from sugar cane, beets, and the palm and
sugar-maple trees. Sugar cane is a grass supposed to be native to
Southern Asia, but now grown throughout the tropics, a large amount
coming from Cuba and Louisiana; it is the commonest of all, and in all
cases the manufacture is essentially the same. The products of
manufacture are: molasses, syrup, brown sugar, loaf, cut, granulated,
powdered, and confectioners’ sugar. Brown sugar is cheapest, but is not
so pure or sweet as white grades; powdered and confectioners’ sugars are
fine grades, pulverized, and, although seeming less sweet to the taste,
are equally pure. Confectioners’ sugar when applied to the tongue will
dissolve at once; powdered sugar is a little granular.
Cane sugar when added to fruits, and allowed to cook for some time,
changes to grape sugar, losing one-third of its sweetness; therefore the
reason for adding it when fruit is nearly cooked. Cane sugar is of great
preservative value, hence its use in preserving fruits and milk; also,
for the preparation of syrups.
Three changes take place in the cooking of sugar: first, barley sugar;
second, caramel; third, carbon.
=Grape sugar= is found in honey and all sweet fruits. It appears on the
outside of dried fruits, such as raisins, dates, etc., and is only
two-thirds as sweet as cane sugar. As a manufactured product it is
obtained from the starch of corn.
=Milk sugar= is obtained from the milk of mammalia, but unlike cane
sugar does not ferment.
=Fruit sugar= is obtained from sweet fruits, and is sold as _diabetin_,
is sweeter than cane sugar, and is principally used by diabetic
patients.
GUM, PECTOSE, AND CELLULOSE
These compounds found in food are closely allied to the carbohydrates,
but are neither starchy, saccharine, nor oily. Gum exists in the juices
of almost all plants, coming from the stems, branches, and fruits.
Examples: gum arabic, gum tragacanth, and mucilage. Pectose exists in
the fleshy pulp of unripe fruit; during the process of ripening it
changes to pectin; by cooking, pectin is changed to pectosic acid, and
by longer cooking to pectic acid. Pectosic acid is jelly-like when cold;
pectic acid is jelly-like when hot or cold. Cellulose constitutes the
cell-walls of vegetable life; in very young vegetables it is possible
that it can be acted upon by the digestive ferments; in older vegetables
it becomes woody and completely indigestible.
FATS AND OILS
Fats and oils are found in both the animal and vegetable kingdom. Fats
are solid; oils are liquid; they may be converted into a liquid state by
application of heat; they contain three substances,—_stearin_ (solid),
_olein_ (liquid), _palmitin_ (semi-solid). Suet is an example where
stearin is found in excess; lard, where olein is in excess; and butter,
where palmitin is in excess. Margarin is a mixture of stearin and
palmitin. The fatty acids are formed of stearin, olein, and palmitin,
with glycerine as the base. Examples: stearic, palmitic, and oleic acid.
Butyric acid is acid found in butter. These are not sour to the taste,
but are called acids on account of their chemical composition.
Among animal fats cream and butter are of first importance as foods, on
account of their easy assimilation. Other examples are: the fat of
meats, bone-marrow, suet (the best found around the loin and kidneys of
the beef creature), lard, cottolene, coto suet, cocoanut butter,
butterine, and oleomargarine. The principal animal oils are cod liver
oil and oil found in the yolk of egg; principal vegetable oils are
olive, cottonseed, poppy, and cocoanut oils, and oils obtained from
various nuts.
Oils are divided into two classes, _essential_ and _fixed_. Essential
oils are volatile and soluble in alcohol. Examples: clove, rose, nutmeg,
and violet. Fixed oils are non-volatile and soluble in ether, oil, or
turpentine. Examples: oil of nuts, corn meal, and mustard.
Fats may be heated to a high temperature, as considered in cookery they
have no boiling-point. When appearing to boil, it is evident water has
been added, and the temperature lowered to that of boiling water, 212°
F.
MILK
COMPOSITION
Proteid, 3.4%
Fat, 4%
Mineral matter, .7%
Water, 87%
Lactose, 4.9%
_Boston Chemist._
The value of milk as a food is obvious from the fact that it constitutes
the natural food of all young mammalia during the period of their most
rapid growth. There is some danger, however, of overestimating its value
in the dietary of adults, as solid food is essential, and liquid taken
should act as a stimulant and a solvent rather than as a nutrient. One
obtains the greatest benefit from milk when taken alone at regular
intervals between meals, or before retiring, and sipped, rather than
drunk. Hot milk is often given to produce sleep.
When milk is allowed to stand for a few hours, the globules of fat,
which have been held in suspension throughout the liquid, rise to the
top in the form of _cream_; this is due to their lower specific gravity.
The difference in quality of milk depends chiefly on the quantity of fat
therein: casein, lactose, and mineral matter being nearly constant,
water varying but little unless milk is adulterated.
=Why Milk Sours.= A germ found floating in the air attacks a portion of
the lactose in the milk, converting it into lactic acid; this, in turn,
acts upon the casein (proteid) and precipitates it, producing what is
known as _curd_ and _whey_. Whey contains water, salts, and some sugar.
Milk is preserved by sterilization, pasteurization, and evaporation.
_Fresh condensed milk_, a form of evaporized milk, is sold in bulk, and
is preferred by many to serve with coffee. Various brands of condensed
milk and cream are on the market in tin cans, hermetically sealed.
Examples: Nestle’s Swiss Condensed Milk, Eagle Condensed Milk, Daisy
Condensed Milk, Highland Evaporated Cream, Borden’s Peerless Evaporated
Cream. _Malted milk_—evaporized milk in combination with extracts of
malted barley and wheat—is used to a considerable extent; it is sold in
the form of powder.
Thin, or strawberry, and thick cream may be obtained from almost all
creameries. Devonshire, or clotted cream, is cream which has been
removed from milk allowed to heat slowly to a temperature of about 150°
F.
In feeding infants with milk, sterilization or pasteurization is
sometimes recommended to avoid danger of infectious germs. By this
process milk can be kept for many days, and transported if necessary. To
prevent acidity of the stomach, add from one to two teaspoonfuls of lime
water to each half-pint of milk. Lime water may be bought at any
druggist’s, or easily prepared at home.
=Lime Water.= Pour two quarts boiling water over an inch cube unslacked
lime; stir thoroughly and stand over night; in the morning pour off the
liquid that is clear, and bottle for use. Keep in a cool place.
BUTTER
COMPOSITION
Fat, 93%
Water, 5.34%
Mineral matter, .95%
Casein, .71%
_Pratt Institute._
Butter of commerce is made from cream of cow’s milk. The quality depends
upon the breed of cow, manner of, and care in, feeding. Milk from Jersey
and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of butter.
Butter should be kept in a cool place and well covered, otherwise it is
liable to become rancid; this is due to the albuminous constituents of
the milk, acting as a ferment, setting free the fatty acids.
First-quality butter should be used; this does not include pat butter or
fancy grades. Poor butter has not been as thoroughly worked during
manufacture, consequently more casein remains; therefore it is more apt
to become rancid. Fresh butter spoils quickly; salt acts as a
preservative. Butter which has become rancid by too long keeping may be
greatly improved by melting, heating, and quickly chilling with
ice-water. The butter will rise to the top, and may be easily removed.
Where butter cannot be afforded, there are several products on the
market which have the same chemical composition as butter, and are
equally wholesome. Examples: butterine and oleomargarine.
Buttermilk is liquid remaining after butter “has come.” When taken
fresh, it makes a wholesome beverage.
CHEESE
COMPOSITION
Proteid, 31.23%
Fat, 34.39%
Water, 30.17%
Mineral matter, 4.31%
Cheese is the solid part of sweet milk obtained by heating milk and
coagulating it by means of rennet or an acid. Rennet is an infusion made
from prepared inner membrane of the fourth stomach of the calf. The curd
is salted and subjected to pressure. Cheese is made from skim milk, milk
plus cream, or cream. Cheese is kept for a longer or shorter time,
according to the kind, that fermentation or decomposition may take
place. This is called ripening. Some cream cheeses are not allowed to
ripen. Milk from Jersey and Guernsey cows yields the largest amount of
cheese.
Cheese is very valuable food; being rich in proteid, it may be used as a
substitute for meat. A pound of cheese is equal in proteid to two pounds
of beef. Cheese in the raw state is difficult of digestion. This is
somewhat overcome by cooking and adding a small amount of bicarbonate of
soda. A small piece of rich cheese is often eaten to assist digestion.
The various brands of cheese take their names from the places where
made. Many foreign ones are now well imitated in this country. The
favorite kinds of skim-milk cheese are: Edam, Gruyère, and Parmesan.
Parmesan is very hard and used principally for grating. The holes in
Gruyère are due to aeration.
The favorite kinds of milk cheese are: Gloucester, Cheshire, Cheddar,
and Gorgonzola; Milk and Cream cheese: Stilton and Double Gloucester;
Cream cheese: Brie, Neufchâtel, and Camembert.
FRUITS
The varieties of fruits consumed are numerous, and their uses important.
They are chiefly valuable for their sugar, acids, and salts, and are
cooling, refreshing, and stimulating. They act as a tonic, and assist in
purifying the blood. Many contain a jelly-like substance, called pectin,
and several contain starch, which during the ripening process is
converted into glucose. Bananas, dates, figs, prunes, and grapes, owing
to their large amount of sugar, are the most nutritious. Melons,
oranges, lemons, and grapes contain the largest amount of water. Apples,
lemons, and oranges are valuable for their potash salts, and oranges and
lemons especially valuable for their citric acid. It is of importance to
those who are obliged to exclude much sugar from their dietary, to know
that plums, peaches, apricots, and raspberries have less sugar than
other fruits; apples, sweet cherries, grapes, and pears contain the
largest amount. Apples are obtainable nearly all the year, and on
account of their variety, cheapness, and abundance, are termed queen of
fruits.
Thoroughly ripe fruits should be freely indulged in, and to many are
more acceptable than desserts prepared in the kitchen. If possible,
fruits should always appear on the breakfast-table. In cases where
uncooked fruit cannot be freely eaten, many kinds may be cooked and
prove valuable. Never eat unripe fruit, or that which is beginning to
decay. Fruits should be wiped or rinsed before serving.
VEGETABLE ACIDS, AND WHERE FOUND
The principal vegetable acids are:
I. Acetic (HC_{2}H_{3}O_{2}), found in wine and vinegar.
II. Tartaric (H_{2}C_{4}H_{4}O_{6}), found in grapes, pineapples, and
tamarinds.
III. Malic, much like tartaric, found in apples, pears, peaches,
apricots, gooseberries, and currants.
IV. Citric (H_{3}C_{6}H_{5}O_{7}), found in lemons, oranges, limes, and
citron.
V. Oxalic (H_{2}C_{2}O_{4}), found in rhubarb and sorrel.
To these may be added tannic acid, obtained from gall nuts. Some fruits
contain two or more acids. Malic and citric are found in strawberries,
raspberries, gooseberries, and cherries; malic, citric, and oxalic in
cranberries.
CONDIMENTS
Condiments are not classed among foods, but are known as food adjuncts.
They are used to stimulate the appetite by adding flavor to food. Among
the most important are salt, spices, and various flavorings. Salt,
according to some authorities, is called a food, being necessary to
life.
=Black pepper= is ground peppercorns. Peppercorns are the dried berries
of _Piper nigrum_, grown in the West Indies, Sumatra, and other eastern
countries.
=White pepper= is made from the same berry, the outer husk being removed
before grinding. It is less irritating than black pepper to the coating
of the stomach.
=Cayenne pepper= is the powdered pod of _Capsicum_ grown on the eastern
coast of Africa and in Zanzibar.
=Mustard= is the ground seed of two species of the Brassica. _Brassica
alba_ yields white mustard seeds; _Brassica nigra_, black mustard seeds.
Both species are grown in Europe and America.
=Ginger= is the pulverized dried root of _Zanzibar officinale_, grown in
Jamaica, China, and India. Commercially speaking, there are three
grades,—Jamaica, best and strongest; Cochin, and African.
=Cinnamon= is the ground inner bark of _Cinnamomum zeylanicum_,
principally grown in Ceylon. The cinnamon of commerce (cassia) is the
powdered bark of different species of the same shrub, which is
principally grown in China, and called Chinese cinnamon. It is cheaper
than true cinnamon.
=Clove= is the ground flower buds of _Caryophyllus aromaticus_, native
to the Moluccas or Spice Islands, but now grown principally in Zanzibar,
Pemba, and the West Indies.
=Pimento= (commonly called allspice) is the ground fruit of _Eugenia
pimenta_, grown in Jamaica and the West Indies.
=Nutmeg= is the kernel of the fruit of the _Myristica fragans_, grown in
Banda Islands.
=Mace.= The fibrous network which envelops the nutmeg seed constitutes
the mace of commerce.
=Vinegar= is made from apple cider, malt, and wine, and is the product
of fermentation. It is a great preservative; hence its use in the making
of pickles, sauces, and other condiments. The amount of acetic acid in
vinegar varies from two to seven per cent.
=Capers= are flower buds of _Capparis spinosa_, grown in countries
bordering the Mediterranean. They are preserved in vinegar, and bottled
for importation.
=Horseradish= is the root of _Cochliaria armoracia_,—a plant native to
Europe, but now grown in our own country. It is generally grated, mixed
with vinegar, and bottled.
FLAVORING EXTRACTS
Many flavoring extracts are on the market. Examples: almond, vanilla,
lemon, orange, peach, and rose. These are made from the flower, fruit,
or seed from which they are named. Strawberry, pineapple, and banana
extracts are manufactured from chemicals.
[Illustration:
A GROUP OF KITCHEN UTENSILS.—_Page 14._
]
[Illustration:
MEASURING CUPS AND TEASPOONS AND TABLESPOONS ILLUSTRATING THE
MEASURING OF DRY INGREDIENTS, BUTTER, AND LIQUIDS.—_Page 25._
]
[Illustration:
THE WHIPPING OF HEAVY AND THIN CREAM.—_Page 425._
]
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