CHAPTER XVIII

FISH AND MEAT SAUCES The French chef keeps always on hand four sauces,—White, Brown, Béchamel, and Tomato,—and with these as a basis is able to make kinds innumerable. Butter and flour are usually cooked together for thickening sauces. When not browned, it is called _roux_; when browned, _brown roux_. The French mix butter and flour together, put in saucepan, place over fire, stir for five minutes; set aside to cool, again place over fire, and add liquid, stirring constantly until thick and smooth. Butter and flour for brown sauces are cooked together much longer, and watched carefully lest butter should burn. The American cook makes sauce by stirring butter in saucepan until melted and bubbling, adds flour and continues stirring, then adds liquid, gradually stirring or beating until the boiling-point is reached. For Brown Sauce, butter should be stirred until well browned; flour should be added and stirred with butter until both are browned before the addition of liquid. The secret in making a Brown Sauce is to have butter and flour well browned before adding liquid. It is well worth remembering that a sauce of average thickness is made by allowing two tablespoons each of butter and flour to one cup liquid, whether it be milk, stock, or tomato. For Brown Sauce a slightly larger quantity of flour is necessary, as by browning flour its thickening property is lessened, its starch being changed to dextrine. When sauces are set away, put a few bits of butter on top to prevent crust from forming. Thin White Sauce 2 tablespoons butter 1½ tablespoons flour 1 cup scalded milk ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Put butter in saucepan, stir until melted and bubbling; add flour mixed with seasonings, and stir until thoroughly blended. Pour on gradually the milk, adding about one-third at a time, stirring until well mixed, then beating until smooth and glossy. If a wire whisk is used, all the milk may be added at once. Cream Sauce Make same as Thin White Sauce, using cream instead of milk. White Sauce I 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Make same as Thin White Sauce. White Sauce II 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Make same as Thin White Sauce. Thick White Sauce (for Cutlets and Croquets) 2½ tablespoons butter ¼ cup corn-starch or ⅓ cup flour 1 cup milk ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Make same as Thin White Sauce. Velouté Sauce 2 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup White Stock ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper Make same as Thin White Sauce. Sauce Allemande To Velouté Sauce add one teaspoon lemon juice and yolk one egg. Soubise Sauce 2 cups sliced onions 1 cup Velouté Sauce ½ cup cream or milk Salt and pepper Cover onions with boiling water, cook five minutes, drain, again cover with boiling water, and cook until soft; drain, and rub through a sieve. Add to sauce with cream. Season with salt and pepper. Serve with mutton, pork chops, or “hard-boiled” eggs. Drawn Butter Sauce ⅓ cup butter 3 tablespoons flour 1½ cups hot water ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Melt one-half the butter, add flour with seasonings, and pour on gradually hot water. Boil five minutes, and add remaining butter in small pieces. To be served with boiled or baked fish. Shrimp Sauce To Drawn Butter Sauce add one egg yolk and one-half can shrimps cleaned and cut in pieces. Caper Sauce To Drawn Butter Sauce add one-half cup capers drained from their liquor. Serve with boiled mutton. Egg Sauce I To Drawn Butter Sauce add two “hard-boiled” eggs cut in one-fourth inch slices. Egg Sauce II To Drawn Butter Sauce add beaten yolks of two eggs and one teaspoon lemon juice. Brown Sauce I 2 tablespoons butter ½ slice onion 3 tablespoons flour 1 cup Brown Stock ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Cook onion in butter until slightly browned; remove onion and stir butter constantly until well browned; add flour mixed with seasonings, and brown the butter and flour; then add stock gradually. Brown Sauce II (Espagnole) ¼ cup butter 1 slice carrot 1 slice onion Bit of bay leaf Sprig of thyme Sprig of parsley 6 peppercorns 5 tablespoons flour 2 cups Brown Stock Salt and pepper Cook butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, parsley, and peppercorns, until brown, stirring constantly, care being taken that butter is not allowed to burn; add flour, and when well browned, add stock gradually. Bring to boiling-point, strain, and season with salt and pepper. Brown Mushroom Sauce I To one cup Brown Sauce add one-fourth can mushrooms, drained, rinsed, and cut in quarters or slices. Brown Mushroom Sauce II 1 can mushrooms ¼ cup butter ½ tablespoon lemon juice ¼ cup flour 2 cups Consommé or Brown Stock Salt and pepper Drain and rinse mushrooms and chop finely one-half of same. Cook five minutes with butter and lemon juice; drain; brown the butter, add flour, and when well browned, add gradually Consommé. Cook fifteen minutes, skim, add remaining mushrooms cut in quarters or slices, and cook two minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Use fresh mushrooms in place of canned ones when possible. Sauce Piquante To one cup Brown Sauce add one tablespoon vinegar, one-half small shallot finely chopped, one tablespoon each chopped capers and pickle, and a few grains of cayenne. Olive Sauce Remove stones from ten olives, leaving meat in one piece. Cover with boiling water and cook five minutes. Drain olives, and add to two cups Brown Sauce I or II. Orange Sauce ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour 1⅓ cups Brown Stock ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne Juice 2 oranges 2 tablespoons Sherry wine Rind of 1 orange, cut in fancy shapes Brown the butter, add flour, with salt and cayenne, and stir until well browned. Add stock gradually, and just before serving, orange juice, Sherry, and pieces of rind. Sauce à l’Italienne ────────────┬────────────────────────────────── Onion │2 tablespoons each, finely chopped Carrot │ Lean raw ham│ ────────────┴────────────────────────────────── 12 peppercorns 2 cloves Sprig marjoram 2 tablespoons butter 2½ tablespoons flour 1 cup Brown Stock 1¼ cups white wine ½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley Cook first six ingredients with butter five minutes, add flour, and stir until well browned; then add gradually stock and wine. Strain, reheat, and after pouring around fish sprinkle with parsley. Champagne Sauce Simmer two cups Espagnole Sauce until reduced to one and one-half cups. Add two tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half cup champagne, and one tablespoon powdered sugar. Tomato Sauce I (without Stock) ½ can tomatoes or 1¾ cups fresh stewed tomatoes 1 slice onion 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour ¼ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Cook onion with tomatoes fifteen minutes, rub through a strainer, and add to butter and flour (to which seasonings have been added) cooked together. If tomatoes are very acid, add a few grains of soda. If tomatoes are to retain their red color it is necessary to brown butter and flour together before adding the tomatoes. Tomato Sauce II ½ can tomatoes 1 teaspoon sugar 8 peppercorns Bit of bay leaf ½ teaspoon salt 4 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons flour 1 cup Brown Stock Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with sugar, peppercorns, bay leaf, and salt; rub through a strainer, and add stock. Brown the butter, add flour, and when well browned, gradually add hot liquid. Tomato Sauce III ¼ cup butter 1 slice carrot 1 slice onion Bit of bay leaf Sprig of thyme Sprig of parsley 1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes 1 cup Brown Stock Salt and pepper ¼ cup flour Brown the butter with carrot, onion, bay leaf, thyme, and parsley; remove seasonings, add flour, stir until well browned, then add tomatoes and stock. Bring to boiling-point, and strain. Tomato and Mushroom Sauce 2 slices chopped bacon or small quantity uncooked ham 1 slice onion 6 slices carrot 1 bay leaf 2 sprigs thyme Sprig of parsley 2 cloves ½ teaspoon peppercorns Few gratings nutmeg 3 tablespoons flour ½ can tomatoes 1½ cups Brown Stock Salt and pepper ½ can mushrooms Cook bacon, onion, and carrot five minutes; add bay leaf, thyme, parsley, cloves, peppercorns, nutmeg, and tomatoes, and cook five minutes. Add flour diluted with enough cold water to pour; as it thickens, dilute with stock. Cover, and cook in oven one hour. Strain, add salt and pepper to taste, and one-half can mushrooms, drained from their liquor, rinsed, and cut in quarters; then cook two minutes. Use fresh mushrooms in place of canned ones when possible. Tomato Cream Sauce ½ can tomatoes Sprig of thyme 1 stalk celery 1 slice onion Bit of bay leaf 1 cup White Sauce I ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne ¼ teaspoon soda Cook tomatoes twenty minutes with seasonings; rub through a strainer, add soda, then White Sauce. Serve with Baked Fish or Lobster Cutlets. Spanish Sauce 2 tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham 2 tablespoons chopped celery 2 tablespoons chopped carrot 1 tablespoon chopped onion ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour 1⅓ cups Brown Stock ⅔ cup stewed and strained tomatoes Salt and pepper Cook ham and vegetables with butter until butter is well browned; add flour, stock, and tomatoes; cook five minutes, then strain. Season with salt and pepper. Béchamel Sauce 1½ cups White Stock 1 slice onion 1 slice carrot Bit of bay leaf Sprig of parsley 6 peppercorns ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour 1 cup scalded milk ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Cook stock twenty minutes with onion, carrot, bay leaf, parsley, and peppercorns, then strain; there should be one cupful. Melt the butter, add flour, and gradually hot stock and milk. Season with salt and pepper. Yellow Béchamel Sauce To two cups Béchamel Sauce add yolks of three eggs slightly beaten, first diluting eggs with small quantity of hot sauce, then adding gradually to remaining sauce. This prevents the sauce from having a curdled appearance. Olive and Almond Sauce 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 1 cup White Stock ½ cup cream ¼ cup shredded almonds 1 teaspoon beef extract 8 olives (stoned and cut in quarters) ½ tablespoon lemon juice ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock. Just before serving add remaining ingredients. Serve with boiled or steamed fish. Oyster Sauce 1 pint oysters ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour 1 cup milk or Chicken Stock Salt Pepper Oyster liquor Wash oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, add oysters, and cook until plump. Remove oysters, and make a sauce of butter, flour, oyster liquor, and milk. Add oysters, and season with salt and pepper. Cucumber Sauce I Grate two cucumbers, drain, and season with salt, pepper, and vinegar. Serve with Broiled Fish. Cucumber Sauce II Beat one-half cup heavy cream until stiff, and add one-fourth teaspoon salt, few grains pepper, and gradually two tablespoons vinegar; then add one cucumber, pared, chopped, and drained. Celery Sauce 3 cups celery, cut in thin slices 2 cups Thin White Sauce Wash and scrape celery before cutting into pieces. Cook in boiling salted water until soft, drain, rub through a sieve, and add to sauce. Celery sauce is often made from the stock in which fowl or turkey has been boiled, or with one-half stock and one-half milk. Suprême Sauce ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour 1½ cups hot Chicken Stock ½ cup hot cream 1 tablespoon mushroom liquor ¾ teaspoon lemon juice Salt and pepper Make same as Thin White Sauce, and add seasonings. Maître d’Hôtel Butter ¼ cup butter ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper ½ tablespoon finely chopped parsley ¾ tablespoon lemon juice Put butter in a bowl, and with small wooden spoon work until creamy. Add salt, pepper, and parsley, then lemon juice very slowly. Tartar Sauce 1 tablespoon vinegar 1 teaspoon lemon juice ¼ teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce ⅓ cup butter _The Boston Cook Book_ Mix vinegar, lemon juice, salt, and Worcestershire Sauce in a small bowl, and heat over hot water. Brown the butter in an omelet pan, and strain into first mixture. Lemon Butter ¼ cup butter 1 tablespoon lemon juice Cream the butter, and add slowly lemon juice. Anchovy Butter ¼ cup butter Anchovy essence Cream the butter and add Anchovy essence to taste. Lobster Butter ¼ cup butter Lobster coral Clean, wipe, and force coral through a fine sieve. Put in a mortar with butter, and pound until well blended. This butter is used in Lobster Soup and Sauces to give color and richness. Hollandaise Sauce I ½ cup butter Yolks 2 eggs 1 tablespoon lemon juice ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne ⅓ cup boiling water Put butter in a bowl, cover with cold water, and wash, using a spoon. Divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with yolks of eggs and lemon juice, place saucepan in a larger one containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk until butter is melted; then add second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece. Add water, cook one minute, and season with salt and cayenne. Hollandaise Sauce II ½ cup butter ½ tablespoon vinegar or 1 tablespoon lemon juice Yolks 2 eggs ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne. _French Chef_ Wash butter, divide in three pieces; put one piece in a saucepan with vinegar or lemon juice and egg yolks; place saucepan in a larger one containing boiling water, and stir constantly with a wire whisk. Add second piece of butter, and, as it thickens, third piece. Remove from fire, and add salt and cayenne. If left over fire a moment too long it will separate. If a richer sauce is desired, add one-half teaspoon hot water and one-half tablespoon heavy cream. Anchovy Sauce Season Brown, Drawn Butter, or Hollandaise Sauce with Anchovy essence. Horseradish Hollandaise Sauce To Hollandaise Sauce II add one-fourth cup grated horseradish root. Lobster Sauce I To Hollandaise Sauce I add one-third cup lobster meat cut in small dice. Lobster Sauce II 1¼ lb. lobster ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne ½ tablespoon lemon juice 3 cups cold water Remove meat from lobster, and cut tender claw meat in one-half inch dice. Chop remaining meat, add to body bones, and cover with water; cook until stock is reduced to two cups, strain, and add gradually to butter and flour cooked together, then add salt, cayenne, lemon juice, and lobster dice. If the lobster contains coral, prepare Lobster Butter, add flour, and thicken sauce therewith. Sauce Béarnaise To Hollandaise Sauce II add one teaspoon each of finely chopped parsley and fresh tarragon. Served with mutton chops, steaks, broiled squabs, smelts, or boiled salmon. Sauce Trianon To Hollandaise Sauce II add gradually, while cooking, one and one-half tablespoons Sherry wine. Sauce Figaro To Hollandaise Sauce II add two tablespoons tomato purée (tomatoes stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp), one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and a few grains cayenne. Horseradish Sauce I 3 tablespoons grated horseradish root 1 tablespoon vinegar ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne 4 tablespoons heavy cream Mix first four ingredients, and add cream beaten stiff. Horseradish Sauce II 3 tablespoons cracker crumbs ⅓ cup grated horseradish root 1½ cups milk 3 tablespoons butter ½ teaspoon salt ⅛ teaspoon pepper Cook first three ingredients twenty minutes in double boiler. Add butter, salt, and pepper. Bread Sauce 2 cups milk ½ cup fine stale bread crumbs 1 onion 6 cloves ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne 3 tablespoons butter ½ cup coarse stale bread crumbs Cook milk thirty minutes in double boiler, with fine bread crumbs and onion stuck with cloves. Remove onion, add salt, cayenne, and two tablespoons butter. Usually served poured around roast partridge or grouse, and sprinkled with coarse crumbs browned in remaining butter. Rice Sauce 3 tablespoons rice 2 cups milk ½ onion 3 cloves 2 tablespoons butter Salt and pepper Wash rice, add to milk, and cook in double boiler until soft. Rub through a fine strainer, return to double boiler, add onion stuck with cloves, and cook fifteen minutes. Remove onion, add butter, salt, and pepper. Cauliflower Sauce ¼ cup butter ¼ cup flour 1 cup White Stock III 1 cup scalded milk Cooked flowerets from a small cauliflower Salt Pepper Make same as Thin White Sauce and add flowerets. Mint Sauce ¼ cup finely chopped mint leaves ½ cup vinegar 1 tablespoon powdered sugar Add sugar to vinegar; when dissolved, pour over mint and let stand thirty minutes on back of range to infuse. If vinegar is very strong, dilute with water. Currant Jelly Sauce To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add one-fourth tumbler currant jelly and one tablespoon Sherry wine; or, add currant jelly to one cup gravy made to serve with roast lamb. Currant Jelly Sauce is suitable to serve with lamb. Port Wine Sauce To one cup Brown Sauce, from which onion has been omitted, add one-eighth tumbler currant jelly, two tablespoons Port wine, and a few grains cayenne. Vinaigrette Sauce 1 teaspoon salt ¼ teaspoon paprika Few grains pepper 1 tablespoon tarragon vinegar 2 tablespoons cider vinegar 6 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped pickles 1 tablespoon chopped green pepper 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 teaspoon chopped chives Mix ingredients in order given. Sauce Tartare ½ teaspoon mustard 1 teaspoon powdered sugar ½ teaspoon salt Few grains cayenne Yolks 2 eggs ½ cup olive oil 1½ tablespoons vinegar ───────┬───────────────────────────────── Capers │½ tablespoon each, finely chopped Pickles│ Olives │ Parsley│ ───────┴───────────────────────────────── ½ shallot, finely chopped ¼ teaspoon powdered tarragon Mix mustard, sugar, salt, and cayenne; add yolks of eggs, and stir until thoroughly mixed, setting bowl in pan of ice-water. Add oil, at first drop by drop, stirring with a wooden spoon or wire whisk. As mixture thickens, dilute with vinegar, when oil may be added more rapidly. Keep in cool place until ready to serve, then add remaining ingredients. Hot Sauce Tartare ½ cup White Sauce I ⅓ cup Mayonnaise ½ shallot, finely chopped ½ teaspoon vinegar ───────┬───────────────────────────────── Capers │½ tablespoon each, finely chopped Pickles│ Olives │ Parsley│ ───────┴───────────────────────────────── To white sauce add remaining ingredients. Stir constantly until mixture is thoroughly heated, but do not let it come to the boiling-point. Served with boiled, steamed, or fried fish. Hot Mayonnaise Yolks 2 eggs 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon vinegar ¼ cup hot water Salt Few grains cayenne 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley Add oil slowly to egg yolks, then pour on gradually vinegar and water. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens, then add seasonings and parsley. Sauce Tyrolienne To three-fourths cup Mayonnaise add one-half tablespoon each finely chopped capers and parsley, one finely chopped gherkin, and one-half can tomatoes, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to two tablespoons. Serve with any kind of fried fish. Creole Sauce 2 tablespoons chopped onion 4 tablespoons green pepper, finely chopped 2 tablespoons butter 2 tomatoes ¼ cup sliced mushrooms 6 olives, stoned 1⅓ cups Brown Sauce Salt and pepper Sherry wine Cook onion and pepper with butter five minutes; add tomatoes, mushrooms, and olives, and cook two minutes, then add Brown Sauce. Bring to boiling-point, and add wine to taste. Serve with broiled beefsteak or fillet of beef. Boiled rice should accompany the beef, and be served on same platter. Russian Sauce 3 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour 1 cup White Stock III ¼ teaspoon salt Few grains pepper ½ teaspoon finely chopped chives ½ teaspoon made mustard 1 teaspoon grated horseradish ¼ cup cream 1 teaspoon lemon juice Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually White Stock; then add salt, pepper, mustard, chives, and horseradish. Cook two minutes, strain, add cream and lemon juice. Reheat before serving. Serve with Beef Tenderloins or Hamburg Steaks. Sauce Finiste 3 tablespoons butter ½ teaspoon mustard Few grains cayenne 1 teaspoon lemon juice 1½ teaspoons Worcestershire Sauce ¾ cup stewed and strained tomatoes Cook butter until well browned, and add remaining ingredients.