The Boston cooking-school cook book by Fannie Merritt Farmer
CHAPTER III
3927 words | Chapter 18
BEVERAGES
A beverage is any drink. Water is the beverage provided for man by
Nature. Water is an essential to life. All beverages contain a large
percentage of water, therefore their uses should be considered:—
I. To quench thirst.
II. To introduce water into the circulatory system.
III. To regulate body temperature.
IV. To assist in carrying off waste.
V. To nourish.
VI. To stimulate the nervous system and various organs.
VII. For medicinal purposes.
Freshly boiled water should be used for making hot beverages; freshly
drawn water for making cold beverages.
TEA
Tea is used by more than one-half the human race; and, although the
United States is not a tea-drinking country, one and one-half pounds are
consumed per capita per annum.
All tea is grown from one species of shrub, _Thea_, the leaves of which
constitute the tea of commerce. Climate, elevation, soil, cultivation,
and care in picking and curing all go to make up the differences.
First-quality tea is made from young, whole leaves. Two kinds of tea are
considered:—
_Black tea_, made from leaves which have been allowed to ferment before
curing.
_Green tea_, made from unfermented leaves artificially colored.
The best black tea comes from India and Ceylon. Some familiar brands are
Oolong, Formosa, English Breakfast, Orange Pekoe, and Flowery Pekoe. The
last two named, often employed at the “five o’clock tea,” command high
prices; they are made from the youngest leaves. Orange Pekoe is scented
with orange leaves. The best green tea comes from Japan. Some familiar
brands are Hyson, Japan, and Gunpowder.
From analysis, it has been found that tea is rich in proteid, but taken
as an infusion acts as a stimulant rather than as a nutrient. The
nutriment is gained from sugar and milk served with it. The stimulating
property of tea is due to the alkaloid, _theine_, together with an
essential oil; it contains an astringent, tannin. Black tea contains
less theine, essential oil, and tannin than green tea. The tannic acid,
developed from the tannin by infusion, injures the coating of the
stomach.
Although tea is not a substitute for food, it appears so for a
considerable period of time, as its stimulating effect is immediate. It
is certain that less food is required where much tea is taken, for by
its use there is less wear of the tissues, consequently need of repair.
When taken to excess, it so acts on the nervous system as to produce
sleeplessness or insomnia, and finally makes a complete wreck of its
victim. Taken in moderation, it acts as a mild stimulant, and ingests a
considerable amount of water into the system; it heats the body in
winter, and cools the body in summer. Children should never be allowed
to drink tea, and it had better be avoided by the young, while it may be
indulged in by the aged, as it proves a valuable stimulant as the
functional activities of the stomach become weakened.
Freshly boiled water should be used for making tea. Boiled, because
below the boiling-point the stimulating property, theine, would not be
extracted. Freshly boiled, because long cooking renders it flat and
insipid to taste on account of escape of its atmospheric gases. Tea
should always be infused, never boiled. Long steeping destroys the
delicate flavor by developing a larger amount of tannic acid.
How to Make Tea
3 teaspoons tea
2 cups boiling water
Scald an earthen or china teapot.
Put in tea, and pour on boiling water. Let stand on back of range or in
a warm place five minutes. Strain and serve immediately, with or without
sugar and milk. Avoid second steeping of leaves with addition of a few
fresh ones. If this is done, so large an amount of tannin is extracted
that various ills are apt to follow.
Five o’Clock Tea
When tea is made in dining or drawing-room, a “Five o’Clock Tea-kettle”
(Samovar), and tea-ball or teapot are used.
Russian Tea
Follow recipe for making tea. Russian Tea may be served hot or cold, but
always without milk. A thin slice of lemon, from which seeds have been
removed, or a few drops of lemon juice, is allowed for each cup. Sugar
is added according to taste. In Russia a preserved strawberry to each
cup is considered an improvement. We imitate our Russian friends by
garnishing with a candied cherry.
De John’s Tea
Follow recipe for making tea and serve hot, allowing three whole cloves
to each cup. Sugar is added according to taste.
Iced Tea
4 teaspoons tea
2 cups boiling water
Follow recipe for making tea. Strain into glasses one-third full of
cracked ice. Sweeten to taste, and allow one slice lemon to each glass
tea. The flavor is much finer by chilling the infusion quickly.
Wellesley Tea
Make same as Iced Tea, having three crushed mint leaves in each glass
into which the hot infusion is strained.
[Illustration:
FIVE O’CLOCK TEA SERVICE.—_Page 34._
]
[Illustration:
CHOCOLATE SERVICE.—_Page 41._
]
[Illustration:
COFFEE PERCOLATORS AND POT.—_Page 38._
]
[Illustration:
AFTER-DINNER COFFEE SERVICE.—_Page 38._
]
COFFEE
The coffee-tree is native to Abyssinia, but is now grown in all tropical
countries. It belongs to the genus _Coffea_, of which there are about
twenty-two species. The seeds of berries of coffee-trees constitute the
coffee of commerce. Each berry contains two seeds, with exception of
maleberry, which is a single round seed. In their natural state they are
almost tasteless; therefore color, shape, and size determine value.
Formerly, coffee was cured by exposure to the sun; but on account of
warm climate and sudden rainfalls, coffee was often injured. By the new
method coffee is washed, and then dried by steam heat.
In coffee plantations, trees are planted in parallel rows, from six to
eight feet apart, and are pruned so as never to exceed six feet in
height. Banana-trees are often grown in coffee plantations, advantage
being taken of their outspreading leaves, which protect coffee-trees
from direct rays of the sun. Brazil produces about two-thirds the coffee
used. Central America, Java, and Arabia are also coffee centres.
Tea comes to us ready for use; coffee needs roasting. In process of
roasting the seeds increase in size, but lose fifteen per cent in
weight. Roasting is necessary to develop the delightful aroma and
flavor. Java coffee is considered finest. Mocha commands a higher price,
owing to certain acidity and sparkle, which alone is not desirable; but
when combined with Java, in proportion of two parts Java to one part
Mocha, the coffee best suited to average taste is made. Some people
prefer Maleberry Java; so especial care is taken to have maleberries
separated, that they may be sold for higher price. Old Government Java
has deservedly gained a good reputation, as it is carefully inspected,
and its sale controlled by Dutch government. Strange as it may seem to
the consumer, all coffee sold as Java does not come from the island of
Java. Any coffee, wherever grown, having same characteristics and
flavor, is sold as Java. The same is true of other kinds of coffee.
The stimulating property of coffee is due to the alkaloid _caffeine_,
together with an essential oil. Like tea, it contains an astringent.
Coffee is more stimulating than tea, although, weight for weight, tea
contains about twice as much _theine_ as coffee contains _caffeine_. The
smaller proportion of tea used accounts for the difference. A cup of
coffee with breakfast, and a cup of tea with supper, serve as a mild
stimulant for an adult, and form a valuable food adjunct, but should
never be found in the dietary of a child or dyspeptic. Coffee taken in
moderation quickens action of the heart, acts directly upon the nervous
system, and assists gastric digestion. Fatigue of body and mind are much
lessened by moderate use of coffee; severe exposure to cold can be
better endured by the coffee drinker. In times of war, coffee has proved
more valuable than alcoholic stimulants to keep up the enduring power of
soldiers. Coffee acts as an antidote for opium and alcoholic poisoning.
Tea and coffee are much more readily absorbed when taken on an empty
stomach; therefore this should be avoided except when used for medicinal
purposes. Coffee must be taken in moderation; its excessive use means
palpitation of the heart, tremor, insomnia, and nervous prostration.
Coffee is often adulterated with chiccory, beans, peas, and various
cereals, which are colored, roasted, and ground. By many, a small amount
of chiccory is considered an improvement, owing to the bitter principle
and volatile oil which it contains. Chiccory is void of caffeine. The
addition of chiccory may be detected by adding cold water to supposed
coffee; if chiccory is present, the liquid will be quickly discolored,
and chiccory will sink; pure coffee will float.
=Buying of Coffee.= Coffee should be bought for family use in small
quantities, freshly roasted and ground; or, if one has a coffee-mill, it
may be ground at home as needed. After being ground, unless kept air
tight, it quickly deteriorates. If not bought in air-tight cans, with
tight-fitting cover, or glass jar, it should be emptied into canister as
soon as brought from grocer’s.
Coffee may be served as filtered coffee, infusion of coffee, or
decoction of coffee. Commonly speaking, boiled coffee is preferred, and
is more economical for the consumer. Coffee is ground fine, coarse, and
medium; and the grinding depends on the way in which it is to be made.
For filtered coffee have it finely ground; for boiled, coarse or medium.
Filtered Coffee
(_French or Percolated_)
1 cup coffee (finely ground)
6 cups boiling water
Various kinds of coffee pots are on the market for making filtered
coffee. They all contain a strainer to hold coffee without allowing
grounds to mix with infusion. Some have additional vessel to hold
boiling water, upon which coffee-pot may rest.
Place coffee in strainer, strainer in coffee-pot, and pot on the range.
Add gradually boiling water, and allow it to filter. Cover between
additions of water. If desired stronger, re-filter. Serve at once with
cut sugar and cream.
Put sugar and cream in cup before hot coffee. There will be perceptible
difference if cream is added last. If cream is not obtainable, scalded
milk may be substituted, or part milk and part cream may be used, if a
diluted cup of coffee is desired.
Boiled Coffee
1 cup coffee
1 egg
1 cup cold water
6 cups boiling water
Scald _granite-ware_ coffee-pot. Wash egg, break, and beat slightly.
Dilute with one-half the cold water, add crushed shell, and mix with
coffee. Turn into coffee-pot, pour on boiling water, and stir
thoroughly. Place on front of range, and boil three minutes. If not
boiled, coffee is cloudy; if boiled too long, too much tannic acid is
developed. The spout of pot should be covered or stuffed with soft paper
to prevent escape of fragrant aroma. Stir and pour some in a cup to be
sure that spout is free from grounds. Return to coffee-pot and repeat.
Add remaining cold water, which perfects clearing. Cold water being
heavier than hot water sinks to the bottom, carrying grounds with it.
Place on back of range for ten minutes, where coffee will not boil.
Serve at once. If any is left over, drain from grounds, and reserve for
making of jelly or other dessert.
Egg-shells may be saved and used for clearing coffee. Three egg-shells
are sufficient to effect clearing where one cup of ground coffee is
used. The shell performs no office in clearing except for the albumen
which clings to it. Burnett’s Crystal Coffee Settler, or salt fish-skin,
washed, dried, and cut in inch pieces, is used for same purpose.
Coffee made with an egg has a rich flavor which egg alone can give.
Where strict economy is necessary, if great care is taken, egg may be
omitted. Coffee so made should be served from range, as much motion
causes it to become roiled.
Tin is an undesirable material for a coffee-pot, as tannic acid acts on
such metal and is apt to form a poisonous compound.
When coffee and scalded milk are served in equal proportions, it is
called _Café au lait_. Coffee served with whipped cream is called
_Vienna Coffee_.
=To Make a Small Pot of Coffee.= Mix one cup ground coffee with one egg,
slightly beaten, and crushed shell. To one-third of this amount add
one-third cup cold water. Turn into a scalded coffee-pot, add one pint
boiling water, and boil three minutes. Let stand on back of range ten
minutes; serve. Keep remaining coffee and egg closely covered, in a cool
place, to use two successive mornings.
=To Make Coffee for One.= Allow two tablespoons ground coffee to one cup
cold water. Add coffee to cold water, cover closely, and let stand over
night. In the morning bring to a boiling-point. If carefully poured, a
clear cup of coffee may be served.
After-Dinner Coffee
(_Black Coffee, or Café Noir_)
For after-dinner coffee use twice the quantity of coffee, or half the
amount of liquid, given in previous recipes. Filtered coffee is often
preferred where milk or cream is not used, as is always the case with
black coffee. Serve in after-dinner coffee cups, with or without cut
sugar.
Coffee retards gastric digestion; but where the stomach has been
overtaxed by a hearty meal, café noir may prove beneficial, so great are
its stimulating effects.
KOLA
The preparations on the market made from the kola-nut have much the same
effect upon the system as coffee and chocolate, inasmuch as they contain
caffeine and theobromine; they are also valuable for their diastase and
a milk-digesting ferment.
COCOA AND CHOCOLATE
The cacao-tree (_Theobroma cacao_) is native to Mexico. Although
successfully cultivated between the twentieth parallels of latitude, its
industry is chiefly confined to Mexico, South America, and the West
Indies. Cocoa and chocolate are both prepared from seeds of the cocoa
bean. The bean pod is from seven to ten inches long, and three to four
and one-half inches in diameter. Each pod contains from twenty to forty
seeds, imbedded in mucilaginous material. Cocoa beans are dried previous
to importation. Like coffee, they need roasting to develop flavor. After
roasting, outer covering of bean is removed; this covering makes what is
known as _cocoa shells_, which have little nutritive value. The beans
are broken and sold as _cocoa nibs_.
The various preparations of cocoa on the market are made from the ground
cocoa nibs, from which, by means of hydraulic pressure, a large amount
of fat is expressed, leaving a solid cake. This in turn is pulverized
and mixed with sugar, and frequently a small amount of corn-starch or
arrowroot. To some preparations cinnamon or vanilla is added. Broma
contains both arrowroot and cinnamon.
Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs, but contains a much larger proportion
of fat than cocoa preparations. Bitter, sweet, or flavored chocolate is
always sold in cakes.
The fat obtained from cocoa bean is _cocoa butter_, which gives cocoa
its principal nutrient.
Cocoa and chocolate differ from tea and coffee inasmuch as they contain
nutriment as well as stimulant. _Theobromine_, the active principle, is
almost identical with theine and caffeine in its composition and
effects.
Many people who abstain from the use of tea and coffee find cocoa
indispensable. Not only is it valuable for its own nutriment, but for
the large amount of milk added to it. Cocoa may be well placed in the
dietary of a child after his third year, while chocolate should be
avoided as a beverage, but may be given as a confection. Invalids and
those of weak digestion can take cocoa where chocolate would prove too
rich.
Cocoa Shells
1 cup cocoa shells
6 cups boiling water
Boil shells and water three hours; as water boils away it will be
necessary to add more. Strain, and serve with milk and sugar. By adding
one-third cup cocoa nibs, a much more satisfactory drink is obtained.
Cracked Cocoa
½ cup cracked cocoa
3 pints boiling water
Boil cracked cocoa and water two hours. Strain, and serve with milk and
sugar. If cocoa is pounded in a mortar and soaked over night in three
pints water, it will require but one hour’s boiling.
Breakfast Cocoa
1½ tablespoons prepared cocoa
2 tablespoons sugar
2 cups boiling water
2 cups milk
Few grains salt
Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, dilute with one-half cup boiling
water to make smooth paste, add remaining water, and boil one minute;
turn into scalded milk and beat two minutes, using Dover egg-beater,
when froth will form, preventing scum, which is so unsightly; this is
known as _milling_.
Reception Cocoa
3 tablespoons cocoa
¼ cup sugar
A few grains salt
4 cups milk
¾ cup boiling water
Scald milk. Mix cocoa, sugar, and salt, adding enough boiling water to
make a smooth paste; add remaining water and boil one minute; pour into
scalded milk. Beat two minutes, using Dover egg-beater.
Brandy Cocoa
3 tablespoons cocoa
¼ cup sugar
1½ cups boiling water
4 cups milk
3 teaspoons cooking brandy
Prepare as Reception Cocoa, and add brandy before milling.
Chocolate I
1½ squares Baker’s chocolate
¼ cup sugar
Few grains salt
1 cup boiling water
3 cups milk
Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot water, add
sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water; when smooth, place on range
and boil one minute; add to scalded milk, mill, and serve in chocolate
cups with whipped cream. One and one-half ounces vanilla chocolate may
be substitute for Baker’s chocolate; being sweetened, less sugar is
required.
Chocolate II
Prepare same as Chocolate I., substituting one can evaporated cream or
condensed milk diluted with two cups boiling water in place of three
cups milk. If sweetened condensed milk is used, omit sugar.
Chocolate III
2 ozs. sweetened chocolate
4 cups milk
Few grains salt
Whipped cream
Scald milk, add chocolate, and stir until chocolate is melted. Bring to
boiling-point, mill, and serve in chocolate cups with whipped cream
sweetened and flavored.
FRUIT BEVERAGES
Lemonade
1 cup sugar
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 pint water
Make syrup by boiling sugar and water twelve minutes; add fruit juice,
cool, and dilute with ice-water to suit individual tastes. Lemon syrup
may be bottled and kept on hand to use as needed.
Pineapple Lemonade
1 pint water
1 quart ice-water
1 cup sugar
1 can grated pineapple
Juice 3 lemons
Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; add pineapple and
lemon juice, cool, strain, and add ice-water.
Orangeade
Make syrup as for Lemonade. Sweeten orange juice with syrup, and dilute
by pouring over crushed ice.
Mint Julep
1 quart water
2 cups sugar
1 pint claret wine
1 cup strawberry juice
1 cup orange juice
Juice 8 lemons
1½ cups boiling water
12 sprigs fresh mint
Make syrup by boiling quart of water and sugar twenty minutes. Separate
mint in pieces, add to the boiling water, cover, and let stand in warm
place five minutes, strain, and add to syrup; add fruit juices, and
cool. Pour into punch-bowl, add claret, and chill with a large piece of
ice; dilute with water. Garnish with fresh mint leaves and whole
strawberries.
Claret Punch
1 quart cold water
½ cup raisins
2 cups sugar
2 inch piece stick cinnamon
Few shavings lemon rind
1⅓ cups orange juice
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 pint claret wine
Put raisins in cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and boil
twenty minutes; strain, add sugar, cinnamon, lemon rind, and boil five
minutes. Add fruit juice, cool, strain, pour in claret, and dilute with
ice-water.
Fruit Punch I
1 quart cold water
2 cups sugar
½ cup lemon juice
2 cups chopped pineapple
1 cup orange juice
Boil water, sugar, and pineapple twenty minutes; add fruit juice, cool,
strain, and dilute with ice-water.
Fruit Punch II
1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 cup tea infusion
1 quart Apollinaris
2 cups strawberry syrup
Juice 5 lemons
Juice 5 oranges
1 can grated pineapple
1 cup Maraschino cherries
Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; add tea, strawberry
syrup, lemon juice, orange juice, and pineapple; let stand thirty
minutes, strain, and add ice-water to make one and one-half gallons of
liquid. Add cherries and Apollinaris. Serve in punch-bowl, with large
piece of ice. This quantity will serve fifty.
Fruit Punch III
1 cup sugar
1 cup hot tea infusion
¾ cup orange juice
⅓ cup lemon juice
1 pint ginger ale
1 pint Apollinaris
Few slices orange
Pour tea over sugar, and as soon as sugar is dissolved add fruit juices.
Strain into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice, and just before
serving add ale, Apollinaris, and slices of orange.
Fruit Punch IV
9 oranges 6 lemons 1 cup grated pineapple 1 cup raspberry syrup 1½ cups
tea infusion 1¼ cups sugar 1 cup hot water 1 quart Apollinaris
Mix juice of oranges and lemons with pineapple, raspberry syrup, and
tea; then add a syrup made by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes.
Turn in punch-bowl over a large piece of ice. Chill thoroughly, and just
before serving add Apollinaris.
Ginger Punch
1 quart cold water
1 cup sugar
½ lb. Canton ginger
½ cup orange juice
½ cup lemon juice
Chop ginger, add to water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit
juice, cool, strain, and dilute with crushed ice.
Champagne Punch
1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 quart California champagne
4 tablespoons brandy
2 tablespoons Medford rum
2 tablespoons Orange Curaçoa
Juice 2 lemons
2 cups tea infusion
Ice
1 quart soda water
Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix champagne,
brandy, rum, Curaçoa, lemon juice, and tea infusion. Sweeten to taste
with syrup and pour into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice. Just
before serving add soda water.
Club Punch
1 cup water
2 cups sugar
1 quart Burgundy
1 cup rum
⅓ cup brandy
⅓ cup Benedictine
1 quart Vichy
3 sliced oranges
½ can pineapple
Juice 2 lemons
1 cup tea infusion
Ice.
Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes. Mix remaining
ingredients, _except ice_, sweeten to taste with syrup, and pour into
punch-bowl over a large piece of ice.
Unfermented Grape Juice
10 lbs. grapes
1 cup water
3 lbs. sugar
Put grapes and water in granite stewpan. Heat until stones and pulp
separate; then strain through jelly bag, add sugar, heat to
boiling-point, and bottle. This will make one gallon. When served, it
should be diluted one-half with water.
[Illustration:
PUNCH SERVICE.—_Page 43._
]
[Illustration:
CLARET CUP SERVICE.—_Page 45._
]
[Illustration:
DOUBLE LOAVES OF MILK AND WATER BREAD.—_Page 54._
]
[Illustration:
BOSTON BROWN BREAD.—_Page 57._
]
Claret Cup
1 quart claret wine
½ cup Curaçoa
1 quart Apollinaris
⅓ cup orange juice
2 tablespoons brandy
Sugar
Mint leaves
Cucumber rind
12 strawberries
Mix ingredients, except Apollinaris, using enough sugar to sweeten to
taste. Stand on ice to chill, and add chilled Apollinaris just before
serving.
Sauterne Cup
1 quart soda water
2 cups Sauterne wine
Rind ½ orange
Rind ½ lemon
2 tablespoons Orange Curaçoa
½ cup sugar (scant)
Mint leaves
Few slices orange
12 strawberries
Add Curaçoa to rind of fruit and sugar; cover, and let stand two hours.
Add Sauterne, strain, and stand on ice to chill. Add chilled soda water,
mint leaves, slices of orange, and strawberries. The success of cups
depends upon the addition of charged water just before serving.
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