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INDEX "Accomplish'd Cook (The)," Robert May's, 99 Ahasuerus (King), feast of, 12 Aigrefeuille (M. d'), as an epicure, 69, 70, 129 Aldergrove (John), on game, 354 "Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 70; referred to, 73, 112 _et seq._, 157, 184, 233, 336; its purpose, 132; aphorisms of, 138-139. _Vide_ also "G. de la Reynière" "Almanach Gourmand (L')," referred to, 225 "Almanach Gourmand (Le Double)," quoted, 258 Alsace, excellence of its cooks, 149 "Ancienne Alsace à Table (L')," 148-150 Angelica, 434 Anne (Queen), as a gourmande, 102 "Apician Morsels," a piratical volume, 336 Apicius, as a cook, 29; referred to, 40, 41, 50, 200 Apios tuberosa, or ground-nut, 255 Appetites (great), anecdote of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214; anecdote of a Swiss guard, 218; anecdote of a French drummer, 218; anecdote of an English chaplain, 288 Archestratus, his lost poem on gastronomy, 13 "Art Culinaire (L')," 121, 347, 408 "Art de Diner en Ville (L')," 76 "Art de la Cuisine Française au Dix-neuvième Siècle (L')," 206 "Art du Cuisinier (L')," 71-72 Arthus (Désiré), on old tavern-signs, 68 "Art of Cookery (The)," Mrs. Glasse's, 107-111, 316 "Art of Cookery (King's)," quoted, 93, 344 "Art of Dining (The)," Thos. Walker's, 319; Abraham Hayward's, 331 _et seq._ Arts (the) and their masters, 131 Athenæus, quoted, 8, 13, 16, 18, 21-23 Attendance, importance of perfect, 321 Audubon, on game, 362, 363, 370 Autumn, glories of, 373 _et seq._, 398 "Avalanche" (the), of Carême, 200 Azincourt (Albouis), referred to, 130 Baba, its history and virtues, 434 Babiroussa (the), anecdote of, 212 Bakers, the art of the German, 146, 171 Baking, an ancient form of cooking, 10 Balzac, quoted, 5, 351; referred to, 177; as a gastronomer, 219 Banquets, early English, 90, 91 Banville (Théodore de), quoted, 227; referred to, 341, 445 Baron Brisse, quoted, 32, 180, 344, 371, 405, 417; as a gastronomer, 227-228; his splendid gastronomic axiom, 228 Barras (Vicomte de), dinner of, 65 Baryé, referred to, 246 Basting, importance of, 228 Baudelaire (Charles), referred to, 445 Beauvilliers, referred to, 6, 69, 70, 199, 202, 213, 386, 435; quoted, 71, 110, 234, 442 Béchamel, referred to, 54-55 Beecher (Rev. Henry Ward), on pies, 436 Beef, baron of, a royal dish, 92; sirloin of, its origin, 99 Beer, quotation in praise of, 145 Beer-gardens, German, 151 _et seq._ Beers, of Germany, 163-164, 168 Bellone (Dr. de la), on the truffle, 390, 395 Bénédictine, liqueur of, its history, 283-284 Béranger, poem on the restaurant, 140 Berchoux, referred to, 58, 72, 184; his poem on gastronomy, 73 _et seq._, 385 Bernard (Gentil), referred to, 73 Bertinazzi (Carlin), referred to, 129 Beverages, importance of, 4; their relation to national cookery, 151-152, 163-164 Bignon, anecdotes of, 342-343 Bishop (a) of Burgundy, anecdote of, 304 Blaze de Bury, on women, 433 Blot (Pierre), 435 Boar, the wild, 26, 39, 234, 236, 243, 246-247, 366 Boar's-head, carols on the, 91, 93 Boileau, axiom on punctuality, 269 Boiling, a primitive method of cooking, 11 "Boke of Keruynge," quoted, 85-87 "Boke of Nurture," quoted, 84-85 Bonaparte, Napoleon, as a gastronomer, 76 Bonnechose (Cardinal), his famous _mot_, 284 Bossuet, his "Oraison Funèbre" referred to, 232 Bramble (Mathew), referred to, 324 Bratwurst-Glöcklein, 163 Breadstuffs, the first, 7; used by the early English, 83 Breckenridge (Vice-Pres.), anecdote of, 253-255 Brontë (Charlotte), on the curate's dinner, 288 Brouwer (Adrian), referred to, 445 Browne (Wm.), sonnet on the mushroom, 400 Bryant, "Lines to a Waterfowl," 292 Bubble and Squeak, 278 Buckland (Frank), referred to, 243 Buffon, anecdote of, 385 Bulwer, on the fox, 161 Cæsar, his prodigal feasts, 44 Café (_vide_ also "Restaurant,") Véry, referred to, 6, 52, 213, 220, 258; Voisin, referred to, 52; Hardy, referred to, 52, 69, 220; Riche, referred to, 52, 220, 250; Véfour, referred to, 213, 258; de Paris, referred to, 214, 219, 220, 221, 222, 258; its great vogue in the '40's, 219; Anglais, referred to, 220, 258; Philippe, referred to, 258 Caligula, referred to, 43 Cambacérès, as a gastronomer, 69, 205; referred to, 195 Camerani (M.), referred to, 129 Capon (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306 Caraway-seed, abuse of, in Germany, 169 Carême, referred to, 13, 70, 194, 199-207, 211, 223, 229, 348-349, 350, 385, 408, 443; eulogy of, 207 Carp (the), as a favourite of the clergy, 306, 308 Carver, Vatel's definition of a, 60 Carving, importance of, 87, 138; a novel monastic method of, 307 "Castle of Indolence (The)," quoted, 238 Cèpes. _Vide_ "Mushrooms" Charles II, as an epicure, 99 Châteauroux (Duchesse de), 63 Chatillon-Plessis, gastronomical axiom of, 265 Cheese, Martin Schookius' book on, 146; German varieties of, 167; its proper place at dinner, 263; its place and mission at dinner, 440 Child (Theodore), as a false dietetic mentor, 417 Civet of hare, 51 Claré, 96 Claudius, his great dining-room, 43 Clergy (the), elaborate banquets given by, 90; table excesses of, in old Alsace, 149. _Vide_ also individual references Climate _vs._ alimentation, 168, 270, 334 Clough (Arthur Hugh), poem on "The Dinner," 336 "Cobbe's Prophecies," quoted, 80 Cocktail, physiology of the, 196 Coffee, remote use of, 9 Colbert, referred to, 55 "Compleat Housewife (The)," Mrs. E. Smith's, 98, 106, 109 "Compleat Practical Cook (The)," Charles Carter's, 103 Compots, 157, 174, 432 Condé (Prince de), referred to, 54, 58, 60 Contades (Maréchal de), referred to, 159 Cook, Montaigne's reference to a, 51-52; Berchoux's reference to a, 74; importance of a good, 113; attributes necessary for a good, 203, 207; anecdote of a new, 259; anecdote of a, 393 Cook-book, the ideal, defined, 442-446 Cook-books, early Italian, 49; early Spanish, 50; early French, 52; early English, 81 _et seq._, 317; 17th-century English, 93 _et seq._; old German, 147-148, 150; modern (_vide_ specific references), written by the clergy, 281 Cookery, its relation to life and health, 3, 70, 71, 251, 257-258, 286, 430; modern progress in, 4; _vs._ matrimony, 6; Italian school of, 6, 49, 51, 195; compared to painting, 6, 203; in Biblical times, 7, 8, 9; of the ancient Persians, 11, 12; of the ancient Greeks, 13 _et seq._; of the ancient Sicilians, 14; of the ancient Romans, 24 _et seq._; period of its greatest distinction in Rome, 25; decline of ancient, 48; _vs._ literature and art, 48; the renaissance of, 49 _et seq._; of Spain, 50,423; its relation to the mind, 64, 176; _vs._ diplomacy, 70; home _vs._ the haute-cuisine, 72, 350, 429; cry of its decadence, 79, 258; Parisian school of, in England, 99; of the English rural classes, 101, 102; modern English, 111, 269 _et seq._; importance of good writers on, 113, 199; period of its greatest distinction in France, 116; complementary to national beverages, 151, 153; excellence of German, 156, 174; Carême's and the Marquis de Cussy's opinion of old Roman, 201; of America, 249 _et seq._; of the modern French, 259 (_vide_ also special references); its relation to the church, 280 _et seq._; a difficult art, 442. _Vide_ also "Gastronomy" Cooking-schools, 251, 260 Cooks, jealousy of, 14, 202; regulating the health of, 136 "Cook's Oracle (The)," 316 _et seq._ Cordon-bleu, origin of the term, 62 Cucumber, remote use of, 9; its virtues, 425 Cuisine, the ideal, defined, 258 Cuisine classique (the), 200 "Cuisinier Parisien (Le)," quoted, 203; referred to, 206, 349 Curaçoa sec, as a digestive, 192 Curé, anecdote of a, 293 Cussy (Marquis de), referred to, 67, 127, 211, 213, 225, 305; quoted, 120, 181, 201, 346, 383, 408 Cuyp, referred to, 6, 203, 245 Davis, Lieutenant-Colonel Newnham, 337-339 De Candolle, referred to, 256 Deffand (Mme. du), on strawberries, 144 Delavigne (Cassimir), on dinners, 112 "Délices de la Campagne (Les)," 59 Délille (l'Abbé), on gardening, 71 De Quincey on midday dining, 146 "De re Culinaria," 29, 41, 50 Désaugiers, poem on women, 119 Dessert, its mission defined, 430; etymology of the term, 438 Dickens (Charles), on dining, 329 Dinner, hours of, 83; a good one, a simple one, 116, 320, 322, 324; punctuality at, 126, 269, 291, 318, 319; a wineless, 127, 263-266, 294, 295; inhuman hours of, 145-146, 150; its true hygienic hour, 146, 268, 269; Savarin's definition of a perfect, 190; Carême's classic, at the Baron Rothschild's villa, 200; Dumas' definition of a good, 213; of the Vicomte de Viel-Castel, 214; the Sunday engorgement, 266; evils of the "theatre", 267; a good, as defined by an eminent Baptist ecclesiast, 299; by the Ettrick Shepherd, 309; by Thackeray, 315; by Kitchener, 318; by the Earl of Dudley, 320; French definition of a perfect, 320; importance of variety in the bill of fare, 329; the graceful liar as an adjunct to, 331; Arthur Hugh Clough's poem on the, 336 Dinners, poor "company," 126, 261, 321, 329; ministerial, 195; similarity of, 195, 325, 328; false etiquette of, 331 "Dinners and Diners," 337-339 Dish, the first recorded, 7 Dishes, new, 72, 353, 380; testing of, 135; Hungarian, 167; abuse of certain, 261 Dom Gobelot, anecdote of, 310 Domitian, referred to, 43 Dom Pérignon, the inventor of champagne, 283 Don Quixote, referred to, 50 "Double Almanach Gourmand (Le)," referred to, 340 Douw (Gérard), referred to, 197 Drayton (Michael), quoted, 360 Dreams, viands provocative of, 197 Drinking-Cups, of the ancients, 31 Du Barry (Mme.), a supper of, 62 Dubufe, referred to, 234 Duck, wild, the art of carving a, 87; "When Father carves the" (poem), 87; canvasback, 249, 369; canvasback, Rev. Joseph Barber's poem on, 292; wild, 359, 366, 369 Dumas (Alexandre), quoted, 5, 49, 56, 206, 213, 214, 224, 225, 383; referred to, 131, 149, 211-225, 321; as a cook, 211; as a gastronomer, 221; anecdote of, as a chef, 222, 223 Dumas fils (Alexandre), referred to, 5 Dumonteil (Fulbert), his saying about truffles, 10 Eating, evils of irregular, 267 Egyptians, table appointments of, 10 Elephant, proper sauce to eat one with, 345 Ely (Rev. Joseph A.), translation of poem on the pig, 232 Emerson, his _mot_ on pies, 437 Emetics, use of, among the ancients, 15 English, meals of the early, 82; not appreciative of fine cooking, 210, 274 "Englishman in Paris (An)," quoted, 222 Epicure, definition of an, 128, 131 "Epicurean (The)," referred to, 353 Epicurus, his maxims, 15 Evelyn (John), on salads, 411 Exercise, virtues of, 75, 378 "Faerie Queene (The)," quoted, 235 Fairy-rings. _Vide_ "Mushrooms" Fayot (M.), quoted, 3, 5; referred to, 321 "Feasts of Autolycus (The)," quoted, 343 Fête champêtre. _Vide_ "A shooting jaunt" Fieldfare, 361 Fig-pecker (the), 44, 192, 361 Fish, fondness of the old Latins for, 26; days in Elizabeth's era, 90, 308; omelettes and pâtés of, 149; variety and superiority of American, 251; its complementary wine, 309; proper cookery of, 368 Flamingo (the), as a table bird, 44 Fletcher (John), quoted, 96 Flint cracker, origin of the, 263 Fouquet, referred to, 54, 55, 58 Francatelli, referred to, 6, 106, 199, 208, 226, 350 France (Anatole), his _mot_ on the pâté de Chartres, 434 Frederick the Great, his poem to his cook, 146 Frog (the), his first leap into the frying-pan, 150 Fruit, after dinner, 267 Fruits, the first cultivated, 9; glass-grown in England, 273; superiority of those of western New York, 274 Frying, theory of, 179 Fuger (Bishop), anecdote of, 310 _et seq._ Game, Savarin's references to, 192, 193, 197; Anthony Hayward on its cookery, 333; preservation and protection of, 357-358; definition of the term, 358; effect of food upon flavour of, 359-360, 362-363, 370; proper wines to accompany, 372; species, haunts, pursuit, protection, value, and cookery of, _Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover" Garum, of the ancients, 46 Gastaldy (Dr.), anecdote of, 120; as an epicure, 130 Gastronomer, the ideal, defined, 442-446 Gastronomic tests, Savarin's illustration of, 190 Gastronomy, Archestratus' lost poem on, 13; Berchoux's poem on, 73-76, 184; as defined by M. de Borose, 81; as defined by La Reynière, 128; French _vs._ German, 145, 151, 152; finesse of its ethics, 157-158; one of the most important arts, 176; as defined by the "Dictionnaire de la Conversation," 184; as defined by Savarin, 184; cry of its decadence, 194; its mainspring the pig, 229 _et seq._; as promoted by the religious orders, 285 _et seq._, 335; in relation to sauces, 345; St. Ange's disquisition on, 378-381; in relation to sport, 354, 356, 445. _Vide_ also "Cookery," "Dinners," and individual references Gavarni, his _mot_ on the mushroom, 407 Gemüthlichkeit, of the Germans, 153, 174 Gérard (Charles), referred to, 148-150 Gerarde, quoted, 256, 400, 411 Gibson (W. Hamilton), 406, 407 Glacer à la flamme, 203 Glatigny (Albert), quoted, 63, 341 Gluttony, as defined by woman, 343 Goethe, referred to, 147, 430; poem on game, 169 Goldsmith (Oliver), quoted, 108 Gonthier (Johann), referred to, 52 Good-will, a sportsman's waste of, 381 Goose (the), merits of, in Germany, 156; in Strassburg and Alsace, 159-161; and applesauce, 244 "Goret (La Mort du)," poem, 232 Gouffé (Jules), referred to, 199, 225-226, 227, 229, 445 Gourmand, La Reynière's definition of a, 127-128 Gourmandise, as defined by Savarin, 186; _vs._ beauty, 187; Gérard (Charles), quoted, 199 Gout, 143, 270, 346, 444; prevalence of, among the ancients, 46; prevalence of in England, 96, 102; _vs._ pâté de foie gras, 162 Grace before meat, 291, 297 Graces, the three spirituous, 196 "Grad' aus dem Wirthshaus," German convivial song, 173 "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine," 211 _et seq._ Greeks, meals of the ancient, 19; gluttony of the ancient, 23 Greeley (Horace), anecdote of, 239 Grog, origin of the word, 97 Grouse, ruffed, 356, 359, 364, 366, 370, 375, 376, 411; pinnated, or prairie-chicken, 363, 365 Hafiz, quoted, 423 Hagenmark, 432 Hamerton, referred to, 243 "Hare, first catch your," origin of the term, 110 Harvest-home, poem on the celebration of, 101 Hasenbraten and Hasenpfeffer, 168 Hayward (Abraham), referred to, 331 _et seq._ Hayward (Anthony), on a chaplain's appetite, 288 Heidelberg, a dinner at the Wolfsbrunnen, 152 Heliogabalus, gluttony of his reign, 46-48; inventor of vol-au-vent à la financière, 48 Henry VIII, his fondness for sweets, 430 Herodotus, quoted, 10 Herrick, quoted, 79, 102 Herring, the "marinirte," 167 Hertford (Lord), anecdote of, 333 Hervilly (Ernest d'), referred to, 233 Hippocras, 57, 93, 94, 96 Hirztag, a strange custom of that festival, 150 Hollar, quoted, 358 Homer, quoted, 20 Hone (Wm.), poem on mince-pie, 435 Hood (Thomas), referred to, 316 Horace, quoted, 11, 26, 39, 40, 113, 398; referred to, 38, 39; his fondness for sweets, 428-429 Host, a delicate, as defined by La Reynière, 139; _vs._ guest, Baron Brisse's aphorism on, 228; his duty to his guests, 264-265, 330-331 Housewife, troubles of the, 260 Hugo (Victor), referred to, 341 Hunt (Leigh), on pig-driving, 239 Ice-cream, discoverer of, 434 Indian summer, poem on, 373 Indigestion, La Reynière on the causes of, 133 Ingoldsby (Thomas), referred to, 289; quoted, 280, 291, 306, 438 Jacque (Charles), referred to, 233, 245 Janin (Jules), referred to, 5, 211, 213, 348, 445 Jefferies (Richard), on feasting the chapel-pastor, 287 Johnson (Dr.), quoted, 111, 248 Jordaens, referred to, 6 Jury dégustateur (the), 120 _et seq._ Juvenal, referred to, 34, 37, 40; quoted, 37, 42 "Kalendare de Potages dyuers," 88, 90 Kempis (Thomas à), his fondness for salmon, 309 King (Wm.), poem on cookery, 279 Kitchener (Dr. Wm.), referred to, 106 Kuchen, merits of the German, 169, 174 "Kuchenmeisterey," 171 La Bruyère, quoted, 229, 380 Lacroix (Octave), his tribute to Dumas, 211 La Fontaine, referred to, 116 Laguipière, referred to, 6, 201, 202 Lamb (Charles), referred to, 17, 239, 240-242, 430; his apology to the pig, 240 Lampridius, quoted, 47 Larding (art of), its discoverer, 281 La Reynière (Grimod de), referred to, 66, 72, 112 _et seq._, 178, 196, 213, 225, 317, 336, 361, 443; poem of, 117; quoted, 118, 233, 236, 287, 345, 348, 383, 411; his home kitchen, 131, 132; as a gastronomer, 132; denounced by Savarin, 158; his tribute to Savarin, 177. _Vide_ also "l'Almanach des Gourmands" La Rochefoucauld, quoted, 5 Leckerbissen and Frauenessen, 172 Lennox (Lady), anecdote of, 335 Liar, charm of the accomplished, 331 Liqueurs (celebrated), of monastic invention, 283-285 "Livre de Cuisine (Le)," 225 Locust (the), as an article of diet, 7 Louis XIII, as a gastronomer, 53; XIV, as a gastronomer, 64 _et seq._; XV, as a gastronomer, 61; XVIII, as a gastronomer, 76, 78 Lucullus, as an epicure, 41-43; referred to, 45, 200, 201 Luncheon, an ideal woodland, 375 _et seq._ Lyne (Bishop de), referred to, 149 Macaroni, Dr. Gastaldy on, 120 Macaroni, Rossini's lost recipe for, 220 Madeleine (the), Dumas' story of, 169 Mæcenas, referred to, 38, 39 Magee (Bishop), anecdote of, 394 Mahony (Rev. Francis), poem on pâté de foie gras, 161; his "Watergrasshill Carousal," 309 Maintenon (Mme. de), referred to, 67, 63, 340 Maître d'hôtel, duties and importance of the, 136-138, 204 "Maître d'Hôtel Français (Le)," 206 "Manuel des Amphitryons," quoted, 69; referred to, 93-95 Markham (Gervaise), referred to, 93-95; quoted, 409 Marriage, Balzac's definition of, 351 Martial, quoted, 24, 31, 33, 44; referred to, 37, 38, 40 Marvell (Andrew), referred to, 81, 252 Mauri (Cardinal), his fondness for "Est, Est, Est," 311 Mead, its composition, 97 Medici (Catherine de), 52, 433 Melons, 9, 273, 298 "Memoirs of a Stomach," quoted, 271 "Memorials of Gormandizing," 329 Metheglin, 96, 98, 439 Metzelsuppe, Uhland's poem on, 166 Mézeray (Mlle.), referred to, 117-119, 125, 126 Mind _vs._ stomach, 5 Mistletoe-thrush, 361 "Modern Cook (The)," 208 Mohrenkeller, of Nürnberg, 163 Molière, referred to, 57, 58, 113 Monselet (Charles), quoted, 175, 194, 206, 264; referred to, 211, 225, 232, 340 Montaigne, quoted, 6, 51, 200, 376, 414; referred to, 147, 283 Montauron (Seigneur de), 54 Montausier (Duc de), 54, 55 Montespan (Mme. de), 58, 63 Montgomery (James), poem on the daisy, 424 Morellet (l'Abbé), anecdote of, 304 Morgan (Lady), referred to, 62; quoted, 200 Mouchy (Maréchal de), anecdote of, 64 Moynier (M. M.), referred to, 394, 396 Müller (Wilhelm), poem of, quoted, 311 Mullet, a much-valued fish, 32, 47; origin of the name, 33 Murger (Henri), referred to, 341 Mushrooms, 362; species, qualities, history, haunts, literature, and cookery of, 397-408 Musset (Alfred de), quoted, 219 Mutton, Pré-Salé and Southdown, 359, 380 Napoleon I, as a gastronomer, 61 Nasidienus, the feast of, 39, 40 Nero, his _Domus aurea_, 43 Ninon de l'Enclos, referred to, 175, 178, 200 North, (Christopher), 309, 316 "Nouvel Almanach des Gourmands," quoted, 220 Nudels, 167 Oaks, list of truffle-producing, 391 Oil and vinegar, 415-416 "Old Cookery Books," quoted, 275 Olive-oil, remote use of, 8 Olla podrida, 50; en grande, 50 Omelette (the curé's), anecdote of, 299-302 Onderdonk (Bishop), anecdote of, 295 Onion, an ancient vegetable, 9; tribe, virtues of the, 100, 107, 231, 387 "Original (The)," 319 _et seq._ Orsay (Comte d'), on French cookery, 258 Ortolans, 76, 361 Ostade, referred to, 74, 445 Oudry, referred to, 234 Ovens, Carême's remarks on, 202 Oyster-beds, first artificial, 27 Oysters, ancient modes of cooking, 89; superiority of American, 252 Pain perdu, 89 Painting, Italian school of, 6, 48, 245; Dutch and Flemish schools of, 6, 246, 445; French school of, 246 "Panthropeon, or History of Food (The)," 17, 209 Papabotte (the), 362-363 Parkinson (John), 81, 411 Parsley, virtues of, 106, 231 Pastry, La Reynière's definitions of, 138; Carême's definition of, 202 Pâte de foie gras, 7, 130, 156, 158, 161, 162, 189, 235, 236, 397; La Reynière's account of a, 123; its history, 159; d'écrevisses, 203; de Chartres, 434 "Pâtissier français (Le)," 59 Pennell (Elizabeth Robins), quoted, 107, 342 Pensey (Henrion de), his famous gastronomic axiom, 252 Pepper, superiority of adulterated, 417 Pepys (Diary of), quoted, 99-101 Perdrix à l'espagnol, 50 Perfumes, use of, at feasts, 13, 28 Petit-Radel (M.), anecdote of, 77 "Petite Cuisine (La)," 227 Petrarch, on wine, 293 Petronius Arbiter, referred to, 35, 37 Pheasant (the), 289, 359 Philippe d'Orléans, as a gastronomer, 61 "Philosopher's Banquet (The)," quoted, 106 Physicians, as gastronomers, 78, 267 "Physiologie du Goût (La)." referred to and quoted, 175 _et seq._, 206, 351, 395. _Vide_ also "Savarin" Pie (pumpkin), its origin, 273; a game, 372 Pies, 249, 430 _et seq._; wild boar, 89; strange early English, 95 Pig (the), his popularity as a signboard, 67; of Westphalia and Rothenburg, 164; as a factor of gastronomy, 229 _et seq._; "Dissertation sur le Cochon," 231; "Gli Elogi del Porco," 231; M. Pouvoisin's eulogy of, 232; Rev. Joseph A. Ely's eulogy of, 232; Monselet's eulogy of, 232; Southey's eulogy of, 232; La Reynière's eulogies of, 233, 236; Ernest d'Hervilly's sonnet to, 233; Spenser's and Thomson's unjust strictures on, 235, 238; the Southern razorback, 235, 306; fondness for truffles, 236, 389; Leigh Hunt's essay on, 239; Charles Lamb's apology to the elder animal, 240; as a retriever of game, 244; a German eulogy of, 244; his influence upon the polite arts, 245-246; "Rôti-Cochon," 261, 414 "Pig-Driving, On the Graces and Anxieties of," 239 Planked shad, origin of, 253 _et seq._ Pliny, quoted, 31; referred to, 40, 384, 395 Plover, upland or grass, 361 _et seq._ Plum-porridge, 435 Plum-pudding, and history of, 334, 434-435 Pompadour (Marquise de), 63 Pope, quoted, 83, 103 Pork, the favourite dish of the ancients, 17; origin of, 230 Pork-pie, 89 Porridge, use of, by the ancients, 24 Potato, history of the, 255-256, 306 Potatoes, in England, 272, 330 Pot-au-feu, importance of the, 224 Propertius, quoted, 38 Prout (Father). _Vide_ Rev. Francis Mahony "Psalm, a penitential," 286 Puff-balls. _Vide_ "Mushrooms" Punch, origin of the word, 97 Punctuality. _Vide_ "Dinner, punctuality at" Pumpkin, an ancient vegetable, 9 Quail, 363, 365, 366, 375, 382 Recipes A Blue-violet Salad ("The Story of My House"), 426 "A Bride's Pie" (Mrs. Glasse), 110 A good brown gravy (Mrs. Glasse), 109 A liver-pudding boiled (Mrs. Glasse), 109 Bakewell pudding, 276 Bouillon, Dumas' mode of preparing, 224 Brook trout (Savarin), 179; (Baron Brisse's formulas), 180 Cabbage, Apicius' recipes for, 29 Cèpes (Vuillemot's recipe for), 405 Chicken, Artimidor's recipe for, 18 Cock ale, Markham's formula for, 98 "Dish of Roses" (the). Laurentius' recipe for, 18 Flounder-souchy (Kitchener), 327 Gigot de mouton à la Richelieu (St. Ange), 380 Guisado, the Spanish, 51 How to collar a pig (Mrs. Smith), 109 How to roast a pig (Mrs. Glasse), 110 Kalter Aufschnitt, 169 Mutton Cutlets (Mrs. Walter Ellis), 276 Partridge aux choux (Baron Brisse), 371 Pheasant à la Sainte-Alliance (Savarin), 193 Potage aux choux (Dumas), 224 Quail à la financière (Gouffé), 226 Roast goose _à l'allemande_, 157 Sack-posset (Sir Fleetwood Fletcher), 439 Sauce for venison, mutton, and game (Francatelli), 208; for green geese and ducklings, 278; à la Schönberg (Her Gracious Serenity), 352 Spare-rib (Charles Lamb's new formula), 242 "The Curé's Omelette" (Savarin), 302 The hunter's sandwich, 441 Ranhofer (Charles), referred to, 353 Récamier (Mme.), referred to, 300 Reed-birds, 359, 361 Rembrandt, referred to, 6 Restaurants, first Parisian, 64, 66; excessive charges of Parisian, 140, 220, 342; Bignon, referred to, 219; American, 250; advantage of dining at, 339; Glatigny's sonnet on, 341; Bignon's, 341-343; Trois Frères Provençeaux, referred to, 258; a dinner at, in 1860, 297; English, 270, 275, 338. _Vide_ also "Cafés," and specific references Retz (Cardinal de), referred to, 171 Réveillé-Parise (Dr.), referred to, 339 Richelieu (Cardinal de), 54, 302, 380; (Maréchal, Duc de), 303, 348 Riquette, referred to, 202 Ristori (Mme.), referred to, 220 Roasting, as defined by the Marquis de Cussy, 120 Robert, referred to, 6, 69, 194, 201, 202 Rocher de Cancale (restaurant of), 52, 115, 117, 118, 187, 221; a celebrated menu of, 140-142 Rohan (Cardinal), referred to, 150 Romans, luxury of the ancient, 25 _et seq._; meals of the ancient, 27 Ronsard, referred to, 52; quoted, 79 Roques (Joseph), 408 "Royal Cookery" (Patrick Lamb's), 102 Rubens, referred to, 6, 245 Ruffs and reeves, 335 Ruysdael, referred to, 6 Sack-posset, 96 St. Ange, gastronomic homily of, 378-382 Ste. Beuve, quoted, 381 Saint-Simon, quoted, 55 Salad, 362; virtues of, as defined by Savarin, 301, 411; virtues of, as defined by La Reynière, 411; its mission and place at the dinner, 418 Salads, remote use of, 10 Salmis. La Reynière's lost monastic recipe for, 286 Sandpiper (Bartramian). _Vide_ "Plover" and "Papabotte" Sanzai (Archbishop), anecdote of, 304 Sardanapalus, as a gastronomer, 12 Sauce, a good, as defined by Baron Brisse, 334; a good, as defined by La Reynière, 345; anchovy, 345; (a good), its qualification, 349 Sauce tartare, a novel, 256 Sauces old English, 84; best for brook trout, 191; (Francatelli's), for mutton and game, 209, 368; (English), 277; merits of, 249, 345; Harvey's, origin and anecdote of, 277; bread, 289, 368; their relation to gastronomy, 345; Marquis de Cussy on, 346; mayonnaise, its history and etymology, 348-349, 421; à la Schönberg, 352; a list of, for the home cuisine, 352; apple, 368; à la Richelieu, 381 Saucier (the), 346 Sauerkraut, 371; when invented, 150; (French), not to be commended, 223 Sausages, the German the master-maker of, 152, 423; German species and varieties of, 163-166 Savarin, referred to, 75, 113, 114, 225, 305, 351, 370, 434, 443; denounced by M. de Courchamps, 158; as a gastronomer, 181, 206; his discourtesy to La Reynière, 195; poem of, 197; quoted, 300-302, 383, 395, 411. _Vide_ also "Physiologie du Goût (La)" Scott (Sir Walter), referred to, 309 Seasonings, used by the ancients, 28-30; used by the English, 83, 108; importance of, 446 Seneca, quoted, 5, 31, 32, 41, 46; referred to, 40, 44 Sévigné (Marquis de), referred to, 175, 200 Shakespeare, quoted, 246, 441 Shelley, referred to, 234 Shooting jaunt, a, 375 _et seq._ Shuttleworth (Canon), his famous "grace," 291 Signboards (old), and their mottoes, 67 Smell (the), its influence on the taste, 182 Smith (Rev. Sydney), his _mot_ on pâté de foie gras, 158; gastronomic anecdote of, 249; his _mot_ on the pheasant, 286; his poem on roast mutton, 290; on fanatics, 294; his poem on salad, 412 Sneyders, referred to, 6, 234, 445 Snipe, 356, 359, 365, 366, 411 Société des Mereredis, 118, 129, 130 Solomon, his table, 11 Sora, or rail (the), 360 Soubise (Prince de), anecdote of his chef, 37 Soup, bisque d'écrevisses, 150; aux choux, 224; croûte-au-pot, 224, 275; Julienne, 281; first mention of, 281 "Soupers de la Cour (Les)," 62 Soups, German, 167 Southey, referred to, 232 Soyer, referred to, 17, 106, 199, 209-210 Spartan black broth, 13 Spätzle, 167 Speaking-tube, invented by La Reynière, 126 Speisekarte, a typical, 154 Spenser, quoted, 235; referred to, 238 Sport. _Vide_ chapter "The Spoils of the Cover" Stimulants, before dinner, 196 Stomach (the), its joys and sorrows, 5; its offices, 267, 317, 319 Strawberries _vs._ gout, 143, 432 ---- ---- ---- (Rev. Dr.), anecdote of, 296-299 Sweetmeats, 379 Sweet potato, 256 Sydney (Sir Robert), anecdote of, 89 Tables volantes, 62 Talleyrand (Prince de), as a gastronomer, 69, 202 Talon (Joseph), discoverer of truffle culture, 388 Taste (the), Savarin's analysis of, 181-184; influence of smell on, 182 Teniers, referred to, 6, 445 Tennyson, referred to, 316 Thackeray, referred to, 159, 195, 387; as a gastronomer, 315, 329; quoted, 327, 340 Thomson, quoted, 238 Thoreau, on the mushroom, 402, 403 Tiberius, death from poisoned mushrooms, 43; as an epicure, 44; his fondness for cucumbers, 425 Timon (Bishop), of Buffalo, anecdote of, 293 Toast, a celebrated French, to femininity, 283 Toasts, form of, among the ancients, 27 Tobacco, introduction of, 28 Total abstainer, anecdote of a, 265; abstinence, poem on, 295 Total abstainers _vs._ guests, 263-266; brandied peaches, 433 Trimalchio, dinner of, 35 Trout, brook, best sauce for, 181; of the English chalk-streams, 364; American _vs._ the European, 365 "Truffe (De la)," 394 "Truffe (La)," 390 Truffles, 143, 159, 210, 235, 434; species, qualities, history, cultivation, cookery, literature, and phenomena of. _Vide_ chapter "Two Esculents par excellence" Turbot (the), 33 Turkey, a truffled, 122, 304, 385; history of the, 304, 305; wild, 369-370; wild _vs._ the domestic, 369, 370 Turtle feasts, American, 267 Ude, referred to, 6, 106, 190, 207 Uhland, referred to, 163, 166 Ulric (St.), festival of, 308 Urbain-Dubois, referred to, 199, 226 Van Mieris, referred to, 197 Vatel, referred to, 6, 54, 58, 130; on carving, 59 Vegetables, used by the ancients, 9, 10, 28, 29; poor cookery of, in Great Britain, 272; importance of good, 330 Verneuil (G. de), referred to, 130 Véron (Dr.), anecdote of, 221; on the restaurant, 339 Verres, referred to, 43 Viel-Castel (Vicomte de), anecdote of, 214 Vienna roll (the), origin of, 171 Vincent La Chapelle, 61 Vineyards (celebrated), first founded by the ecclesiasts, 282 Virgil, referred to, 234 Vitellius, referred to, 43, 44 Vol-au-vent à la financière, 203; inventor of, 48 Vopallière (Marquis de), referred to, 71 Vuillemot, referred to, 212, 213 Walker (Thos.), 106, 195, 319 _et seq._; as a gastronomer, 326 Walton (Isaac), referred to, 81 Ward (Artemus), his _mot_ on hasty pudding, 134; his _mot_ on pies, 437 Weenix, referred to, 234, 445 Wheat, original home of, 9 Wheatears, 335, 361 White (Gilbert), referred to, 243, 272; quoted, 360 Whitebait, as eulogized by Thackeray, 328, 387 Whitefish (the), 45 Wines, of the ancients, 13, 17, 30, 40; of the ancient Romans, 30; in use in England, 96-98; difficulty of testing, 135; German, 168; of old Alsace, 159; brut champagne, 262, 431; importance of good, 262, 264, 265; champagne, 262, 270, 323, 337, 438; champagne, its virtues, 283, 379; their relation to the clergy, 282, 291, 293, 295, 309 _et seq._; "Est, Est, Est," history of, 310 _et seq._; importance of a sufficient variety, 322-323; their relation to game, 356, 372; to truffles and mushrooms, 394, 408; Château Yquem, crême, of 1861 and 1864, 427; as a medium of hygiene, 444 Woman, jealousy of, 14; imitating man's excesses, 46; Talleyrand's precept regarding, 79; compared to peaches, 119; as gastronomers, 125, 343, 351; La Reynière's distinction of, as guests, 139; created for the selfish wishes of man, 174; her fondness for sweetmeats, 174, 429, 430, 433; Savarin's references to, 192; as an addition to a shooting-party, 192-193, 378; a French toast to, 283; as an adjunct to the dinner, 320; disadvantages of dining with, 338, 340; in the eighteenth century, 347; how she may hypnotise the sterner sex, 350, 429; a toast in sparkling St. Péray to her, 351; Balzac's reference to, 351; the wise one defined, 351; _vs._ champagne, 379, 429; compared to mushrooms, 398; pretty one should mix a salad, 420; her relation to cookery, 429; a foil for man's mistakes, 431; as a garnish to an omelette, 432; her pet tipples in colonial times, 438, 439 Woodcock, 355, 359, 365, 366, 376 Wordsworth, referred to, 240 Yellowshank (the), 361 Yuan Mei, quoted, 6 FOOTNOTES: [1] That the onion, garlic, and radish were held in particular esteem is attested by Herodotus, who says in his time (450 B.C.) there was an inscription on the Great Pyramid, stating that a sum amounting to sixteen hundred talents had been paid out for these three forms of food, which had been consumed by the workmen during the progress of its erection. [2] The world has scarcely been as liberal to literature as to gastronomy; although the graceful French poet, the Abbé Philippe Desportes, who so celebrated his mistresses Diane, Hypolite and Cléonice in verse, was munificently rewarded for his lyrical talent by Henry III, and presented besides with an abbey worth an annual rental of ten thousand crowns for having written a sonnet which captivated the Duc de Joyeuse, brother-in-law of the king. [3] Rev. Philip Francis' transl. [4] Sir Theodore Martin's transl. [5] Tobacco, unknown to the ancients, did not come into use among Asiatic and European peoples until the latter half of the sixteenth century, or a long period after the discovery of America--nearly all its species being of American origin. Its name, Nicotiana, was derived from that of John Nicot of Nismes, ambassador from the King of France to Portugal, who procured the first seeds from a Dutchman who had them from Florida. [6] Rev. Philip Francis' transl. [7] "My red wing gives me my name; but it is my tongue that is considered savory by epicures. What if my tongue had been able to sing?"--MARTIAL, Epigrams: "The Flamingo." [8] The Duc de Montausier used to say, _Qu'a sa tenue de convive on reconnaissait un gentilhomme_. [9] Les Delices de la Campagne. Suitte du Jardinier françois ov est enseigne a preparer pour l'vsage de la vie tout ce qui croist sur la Terre & dans les Eaux. Dedie avx dames Mesnageres. À Paris, chez Pierre Des-Hayes, 1654. [10] The cause assigned to Vatel's death has been disputed, some having maintained it was not owing to the non-arrival of the fish, but because on cooking the fish they were found "not to be so fresh as they might be." [11] Les Soupers de la Cour, ou l'art de travailler toutes sortes d'alimens. Pour servir les meilleures Tables, suivant les quatre Saisons. A Paris chez Guillyn, Libraire, 1755. [12] L'Art du Cuisinier, par A. Beauvilliers, Ancien Officier de Monsieur, comte de Provence, Attaché aux Extraordinaires des Maisons Royales et actuellement Restaurateur, rue de Richelieu, No. 26 à la grande Taverne de Londres. A Paris, chez Pillet Ainé, 1814, 2 vols. [13] Défendez que personne, an milieu d'un banquet, Ne vous vienne donner un avis indiscret; Ecartez ce facheux qui vers vous s'achemine--Rien ne doit déranger l'honnête homme qui dîne. [14] L'Art de dîner en ville à l'usage des gens de lettres, poème en iv chants. Seconde édition revue et corrigée. Paris, Delaunay; Colnet, 1810. [15] Herrick, "Hesperides." [16] The English housewife; containing the inward and outward Vertues which ought to be in a compleat Woman; as to her skill in Physicke, Cookery, Ordering of Great Feasts, etc., etc. London, 1631. [17] Elizabeth Robins Pennell: "The Feasts of Autolycus." [18] The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy, which far Exceeds Every Thing of the Kind Ever yet Published. By a Lady. London: Printed for the Author; and sold at Mrs. Ashburn's, a China Shop, the Corner of Fleet Ditch. [19] Almanach des Gourmands, Suivant de Guide Dans Les Moyens de faire excellente Chère; Par Un Viel Amateur. Troisième Edition. Revue, Corrigée et Considérablement Augmentée. A Paris. Chez Maradan, rue Pavés-Saint-André-des-Arcs, 1804, 1804, 1805, 1806, 1807, 1808. Chez Joseph Chaumerot, Libraire, au Palais Royal, Galeries de Bois, 1810, 1812. [20] Manuel des Amphitryons; contenant Un Trait de la Dissection des viandes à table, la Nomenclature des Menus les plus nouveaux pour chacque saison, et des Elémens de la Politesse gourmande. Ouvrage indispensable à tous ceux qui sont jaloux de faire bonne chère, et de la faire faire aux autres. Orné d'un grand nombre de Planches gravées en taille-douce. Par l'Auteur de l'Almanach des Gourmands. A Paris, Chez Capelle et Renand, MDCCCVIII. [21] "We shall never forget a dinner that eight of us had at M. Tailleur's, in which he made us drink forty bottles of his best wine of all kinds, and each service of which attested the competent master of the alimentary art." L'ALMANACH, 4^{me} année, p. 152. [22] (In depths of Seidels tall we Germans find our power, As did in years agone our ancestors of yore; For in the noble barley-wine there lingers still a might divine.) [23] L'Ancienne Alsace à Table. Etude Historique et Archéologique sur l'Alimentation, les Mœurs et les Usages Epulaires de l'ancienne Province d'Alsace: par Charles Gérard, Avocat à la Cour Impériale de Colmar. Colmar, Imprimerie et Lithographie de Camille Decker, 1862. Large 8vo, pp. 269. [24] Diese Zahl bedeutet die ununterbrochenen Dienstjahre der betr. Kellnerin. [25] It should be distinctly stated that the rendition is by the late Rev. Francis Mahony (_requiescat in pace!_). Recalling his scathing stricture on "The Rogueries of Tom Moore," one were unwise not to mention the name of the scholarly paraphrast and poet, for fear that he might arise to wreak summary vengeance. But inasmuch as no authorship is assigned to the poem by the versatile bard, and as one must be on guard most of the time against the subtile spirit of fun and malice which pervades his pages, it is probable that both the French song and the rendition are by the same accomplished hand. [26] "Es lohnet mir heute Mit doppelter Beute Ein gutes Geschick; Der redliche Diener Bringt Hasen und Hühner Zur Küche zurück; Hier find ich gefangen, Auch Vogel noch hangen. Es lebe der Jäger, Es lebe sein Glück!" [27] The reader who is interested in pastoral luncheons and all their possibilities should compare the "Halts of a Shooting Party" with the chapter entitled "Des Parties de Campagne Gourmandes" in the fourth volume of the "Almanach des Gourmands." [28] "Grand Dictionnaire de Cuisine, par Alexandre Dumas. Paris, Alphonse Lemerre, Editeur, Passage Choiseul, 1873." [29] "Propos d'Art et de Cuisine." [30] Rev. Joseph A. Ely's transl. [31] "Le Gastronome Français" (1828). G. D. L. R., "De La Truffe." [32] "Roti-Cochon ou Méthode Très-Facile pour bien apprendre les Enfants a Lire en Latin et en Francais, par des Inscriptions moralement expliquées de plusieurs Representations figurées de différentes choses de leurs connoissances; très utile et meme necessaire, tant pour la vie & le salut, que pour la gloire de Dieu. A Dijon, chez Claude Michard, Imprimeur & Marchand Libraire à Saint Jean l'Evangéliste." [33] "The English system of cookery it would be impertinent for me to describe; but still, when I think of that huge round of parboiled ox-flesh, with sodden dumplings floating in a saline, greasy mixture, surrounded by carrots looking red with disgust and turnips pale with dismay, I cannot help a sort of inward shudder, and making comparisons unfavourable to English gastronomy."--MEMOIRS OF A STOMACH. Written by Himself. London, 1853. [34] "Old Cookery Books and Ancient Cuisine," by W. Carew Hazlitt, London, Elliot Stock, 1886. [35] "Lo Scalco prattico di Vittorio Lancellotti da Camerino All'Illustrissimo, e Reuerendiss. Prencipe il Card. Ippolito Aldobrandino Camerlengo di Santa Chiesa. In _Roma Appresso Francesco Corbelletti_. 1627." [36] Cardinal Bonnechose, who was most appropriately surnamed, is especially remembered for his bon-mot, "Le clergé est un régiment; il faut qu'il marche." [37] Whither, 'midst falling dew, While glow the heavens with the last steps of day, Far through their rosy depths dost thou pursue Thy solitary way? Vainly the fowler's eye Might mark thy distant flight to do thee wrong, As, darkly painted on the crimson sky, Thy figure floats along.... BRYANT: Lines to a Waterfowl. [38] Mme. Récamier. [39] "Hart an dem Bolsener See, Auf des Flaschenberges Hoh', Steht ein kleiner Leichenstein Mit der kurzen Inschrift drein: _Propter nimium Est, Est, Dominus meus mortuus est!_ "Unter diesem Monument, Welches keinen Namen nennt, Ruht ein Herr von deutschem Blut, Deutschem Schlund und deutschem Mut, Der hier starb den schönsten Tod--Seine Schuld vergeb' ihm Gott!" [40] "The Cook's Oracle; Containing Receipts for Plain Cookery on the Most Economical Plan for Private Families, etc. The Fourth Edition. London: Printed for A. Constable & Co. 1822." [41] "The Original, by the Late Thomas Walker, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge. Fifth Edition. Edited by Wm. A. Guy. London, Henry Renshaw, 1875." [42] "The Art of Dining, or Gastronomy and Gastronomers. London: John Murray, Albemarle Street, 1852." 12mo, pp. 137. [43] "Dinners and Diners, Where and How to Dine in London. By Lieut.-Col. Newnham-Davis. A New Enlarged and Revised Edition. London: Grant Richards, 1901." Chapters LIII, pp. 376. [44] "L'Hygiene des Hommes livrés aux Travaux de l'Esprit." [45] "The Feasts of Autolycus--The Diary of a Greedy Woman. Edited by Elizabeth Robins Pennell. London: John Lane. New York: The Merriam Co. 1896." [46] _Coulis_--a thick gravy, and also a term formerly applied to the fundamental sauces. [47] "L'Art Culinaire." [48] "All the entrées having the name Bayonnaises (a corrupt term for Mahonnoise) were the invention of the Maréchal, Duc de Richelieu."--MANUEL DES AMPHITRYONS. [49] The recipes for sauce _à la Richelieu_ and Francatelli's sauce are presented respectively in the following and in a previous chapter. [50] "Those which feed much on cantharides require to be very carefully cleaned, otherwise persons eating them are liable to suffer severely. Several gentlemen of New Orleans have assured me that they have seen persons at dinner obliged to leave the room at once, under such circumstances as cannot well be described."--AUDUBON: The Birds of America. [51] "La Petite-Cuisine." [52] "I have not defined the truffle as yet, but the definition of this _subterranean mushroom which embraces within its outer covering the sporangiums filled until spores subsequently destined to reproduce it_, is the result of all I have said."--IBID.: La Truffe. Etude sur les Truffes et les Truffières. Par le Dr. C. de Ferry de la Bellone, Ancien Président de la Société de Médecine de Vaucluse, Président du Comice Agricole, etc., etc. Paris, Librairie J. B. Baillière et Fils, 1888. 8vo, pp. 312. [53] "De la Truffe, Traite Complet de ce Tubercle, contenant sa Description et son Histoire Naturelle la plus détaillée, son Exploitation Commerciale et sa Position dans l'Art Culinaire; suivi d'une Quatrième Partie contenant les meilleurs moyens d'employer les truffes en apprêts culinaires; les meilleures méthodes d'en faire des conserves certaines; les indications, recettes et moyens les plus positifs et les plus compliqués stir tout ce qui concerne cette substance; par M. M. Moynier. Paris, Barba. 1836." pp. 400. [54] "Our Edible Toadstools and Mushrooms, and How to Distinguish Them. A Selection of Thirty Native Food Varieties Easily Recognizable by Their Marked Individualities, with Simple Rules for the Identification of Poisonous Species. By W. Hamilton Gibson. With Thirty Colored Plates and Fifty-seven Other Illustrations by the Author. New York, Harper & Brothers, Publishers, 1895." [55] "Annual Report of the State Botanist of the State of New York. Made to the Regents of the University, Pursuant to Chapter 355 of the Laws of 1883. By Charles H. Peck. Albany, James B. Lyon, Publisher,