4. The outside of the fireless cooker can be made more attractive by

staining or painting it. The lid may be held in place by screen-door hooks and eyes. The cooker may be placed on castors so that it can be easily moved. Selected recipes for preparing food to be cooked in the fireless cooker may be found in Farmer’s Bulletin 771, Homemade Fireless Cookers and Their Use. Write the Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. PLAN No. 813. SPONGE BOX OR BREAD RAISER In making bread the housekeeper often finds it difficult to hold her sponge or dough at the right temperature so that it will rise in a shorter period of time. She will find a sponge box or bread raiser a great help in keeping the right temperature. Such a box can be made from an ordinary dry-goods packing box. [Illustration: Fig. 4.--Sponge box.] A box 20x20 inches is a convenient size. About ten inches from the bottom of the box a shelf made of slats or strips of wood rests on cleats fastened to the sides of the box. A second shelf is placed four inches above the lower one. The shelves can be removed when cleaning the box. Below the lower shelf a sheet of galvanized iron slightly wider than the shelf is inserted. It is curved in order to make it slip in and stay in place securely. This prevents scorching the lower shelf when a lamp is placed below and also helps to distribute the heat more evenly. The door is hinged and fastened with a thumb-latch or hook and staple. Several small holes are bored in the lower and upper parts of the sides and in the top of the box to promote circulation of air. A cork which has been bored through the center to admit a straight thermometer is inserted in one of the holes in the top of the box. A Fahrenheit chemical thermometer that registers as high as 100 degrees can be used. Such a thermometer may be ordered through a hardware dealer or directly from an instrument dealer. To avoid all danger of fire, the box should be lined with asbestos or tin when a kerosene lamp is used for heating the box. If an electric light is used, the lining is not needed. A 16-candlepower light will heat the box nicely. A small and inexpensive night lamp is placed in the bottom of the box and a shallow pan of water is placed on the lower shelf so that the air in the box will be kept moist. The bowl of sponge or pans of dough are placed on the upper shelf. The temperature of the box should be kept as near 86° F. as possible (80° to 88° F.) when bread is being made in the quick way. If a sponge is set overnight 65° to 70° F. is the better temperature until the dough is made in the morning, after which the temperature may be increased to 86° F. The temperature in the box may be varied by raising or lowering the flame of the lamp or by using warm or cold water in the shallow pan. PLAN No. 814. DISH DRAINER Perhaps no time spent in housework is more begrudged by the housekeeper than that spent in washing and wiping dishes. A dish drainer not only saves time and labor but it does away with the too often insanitary dish towel. [Illustration: Fig. 5.--Dish drainer.] A most satisfactory dish drainer can be made by using an ordinary bread or biscuit pan and racks made of soft No. 12 or 14 wire. By using a pair of pliers the wire can be bent into the proper shape for forming the racks. The racks fit into the pan and hold the dishes out of the water. The compartment for silver is made of poultry netting. This compartment could be made of screen wire or a tin can with holes in the bottom might be used. After the dishes are washed they are stacked in the racks and scalded with hot rinsing water. The pan catches the drip, and the dishes upon standing dry clean and lintless. If the drainer be used on the drain board of a sink a small hole can be made in the pan and the drip drained immediately into the sink. The wire racks can easily be removed so that the pan can be used for other purposes. PLAN No. 815. HEIGHTS OF WORKING SURFACES Kitchen tables and the bottom of sinks are usually too low for working surfaces when the housekeeper is standing. Low working surfaces are often responsible for tired backs and rounded shoulders because of the undue stooping and the strain on the arms and shoulders. The following figures show the proper level of working surfaces for the height of the housekeeper: Proper height Height of woman. of working surface. Inches. 4 feet 10 inches 27 5 feet 28 5 feet 2 inches 29 5 feet 4 inches 30 5 feet 6 inches 31 The kitchen table should be raised to the proper height by the use of blocks of wood. Different types of blocks for raising the height of tables can easily be made by you and sold: [Illustration: Fig. 6.--Blocks for raising tables.] (a) A block of wood with a socket in which the table fits securely. (b) A block of wood with metal strips and screws or nails for fastening the table legs, or the cabinet table. PLAN No. 816. SERVING TRAY The serving tray is a strength and time saver. The tray saves many trips between the dining room and kitchen, both in serving and clearing away meals, especially in a large household where many dishes must be handled. The top and shelf spaces are sufficient to remove all dishes to or from the table in one trip. It saves steps in serving refreshments at social occasions. It is invaluable to use as a bedside tray in the sick room. The tray when well made is attractive as well as useful and may serve as a reading table or flower stand. The upper part of the serving tray is box shaped, 16 inches wide and 26 inches long. This is supported by four legs 1⁵⁄₈ by 1⁵⁄₈ inches which measure 31 inches from the floor to the top of the tray. The top of the tray or the lid of the china compartment is edged by a 1¹⁄₄ inch molding. The china compartment is 4¹⁄₂ inches deep and is painted white within. On the sides of this compartment are little screw hooks on which cups may be hung. There is a space in the compartment for serving dishes for six. [Illustration: Fig. 7.--Serving tray, opened.] Below this serving compartment is a drawer 2 inches deep, which is divided in two parts. One side is used for linen and one side for silver. The side used for silver is lined with dark-colored felt or outing flannel. [Illustration: Fig. 8.--Serving tray, closed.] In the space below the drawer a large undershelf is placed. The serving tray is put on noiseless swivel castors, thus allowing the table to turn completely around, which is a great convenience. Instead of castors, small swivel wheels or the small wheels of a baby carriage or toy wagon may be used. A tray made by the dimensions given above is a convenient size and one that will go through doorways without danger of bumping. PLAN No. 817. FOLDING IRONING BOARD The ironing board can be fastened up against the wall and be put out of the way when not in use. It should be made of well-seasoned 1 or 1¹⁄₄ inch material. A board of convenient size can be made by the following dimensions: 4 feet 8 inches long, 15 inches wide at the attached end, and 8 inches at the free end. About two inches from the attached end the board begins to taper gradually. The free end is rounded. [Illustration: Fig. 9.--Folding ironing board.] A strip 1¹⁄₄ by 4 inches by 15 inches is securely fastened by screws to the wall at a convenient height. The height at which the board is placed varies with the height of the user. For a woman of average height it should be about 31 or 32 inches. The board is hinged to the wall strip with two No. 2 butt hinges. The leg or brace, made of material 1 inch thick and 4 inches wide, is fastened with a No. 3 butt hinge to a strip of board 1 by 4 by 8 inches. The board strip is screwed to the underside of the board eleven inches from the free end. The length of the brace depends upon the height of the board, and when the board is in position the brace rests against the baseboard of the wall. Skirts may be easily ironed without changing the position of the brace. A piece of galvanized iron may be tacked to the board, on which the hot iron may rest when not being used. The board is folded up against the wall and may be held in place by using the upper part of the rack for holding the portable ironing board. PLAN No. 818. RACK FOR THE PORTABLE IRONING BOARD The ironing-board rack or holder may be attached to the wall or to the inside of a closet door to hold a portable ironing board when not in use. The upper part of the holder is made of 2¹⁄₂ inch material and is 5 inches in depth. It is 12 inches across the top and is shaped to fit the contour of the smaller end of the ironing board. In the center is a button which holds the top of the board in place. The button is made of metal and so shaped as to give it a spring and to provide a finger hold for easy movement. The upper part of the rack or holder is screwed to the wall or door. [Illustration: Fig. 10.--Rack for holding ironing board.] The bottom or lower part of the rack is 5 inches wide and 3 inches in depth, and is made of 2¹⁄₂-inch material. It is rabbeted on the side next to the wall. An inch rabbet is cut into for a rest for the ironing board. This part of the rack is fastened with two screws to the wall or door. PLAN No. 819. ICELESS REFRIGERATOR A very useful convenience for the farmhouse, where ice is not obtainable, is the iceless refrigerator. It will keep meats, fruits, and vegetables cool, and will extend the period for keeping milk and butter. It can also serve as a cooler for drinking water. In homes where large quantities of milk and butter are to be kept, it would be well to have one refrigerator for milk and butter and another for other foods, as milk and butter readily absorb odors from other foods. It costs very little to build the refrigerator and nothing to operate it. Construction: A wooden frame is made with dimensions 42 by 14 inches and covered with screen wire, preferably the rustless kind, which costs little more than the ordinary kind. The door is made to fit closely and is mounted on brass hinges, and can be fastened with a wooden latch. The bottom is fitted solid, but the top should be covered with screen wire. Adjustable shelves can be made of solid wood or strips, or sheets of galvanized metal. Shelves made of poultry netting on light wooden frames, are probably the most desirable. These shelves rest on side braces placed at desired intervals. A bread baking pan, 14 by 16 inches, is placed on the top and the frame rests in a 17 by 18 inch pan. All the woodwork, the shelves, and the pans should receive two coats of white paint and two coats of white enamel. This makes a very attractive surface and one that can be easily kept clean. The screen wire may also receive the coats of enamel, which will prevent it from rusting. A cover of canton flannel, burlap, or duck is made to fit the frame. Put the smooth side out if canton flannel is used. It will require about three yards of the material. This material is buttoned around the top of the frame and down the side on which the door is not hinged, using buggy hooks and eyes or large-headed tacks and eyelets worked in the material. On the front side arrange the hooks on the top of the door instead of on the frame and also fasten the cover down the latch side of the door, allowing a wide hem of the material to overlap the place where the door closes. The door can then be opened without unbuttoning the cover. The bottom of the cover should extend down into the lower pan. Four double strips, which taper to 8 or 10 inches in width, are sewed to the upper part of the cover. These strips form wicks that dip over into the upper pan. [Illustration: Fig. 11.--Framework of the iceless refrigerator.] The dimensions given make a refrigerator of very convenient size for household use and one with sufficient evaporating surface, but it is not necessary to follow strictly these dimensions. If a larger capacity is desired, the height of the refrigerator can be increased. Operation: The lowering of the temperature of the inside of the refrigerator depends upon the evaporation of water. To change water from liquid to a vapor, or to bring about evaporation, requires heat. As evaporation takes place heat is taken from the inside of the refrigerator, thereby lowering the temperature of the inside and the contents. [Illustration: Fig. 12.--The completed iceless refrigerator.] Keep the upper pan filled with water. The water is drawn by the capillary attraction through the wicks and saturates the cover. Capillary action starts more readily if the cover is first dampened by dipping it into water or throwing water upon it with the hand. The greater the rate of evaporation the lower the temperature which can be secured; therefore the refrigerator works better when rapid evaporation takes place. When the refrigerator is placed in a shady place in a strong breeze and the air is warm and dry, evaporation takes place continuously and rapidly and the temperature has been known to be reduced to 50° F. When it is damp, and the air is full of moisture, the refrigerator will not work as well, since there is not enough evaporation. More water will find its way to the lower pan, but it will be drawn up into the covering by capillary attraction when the air again becomes drier. Care of Refrigerator: The refrigerator should be regularly cleaned and sunned. If the framework, shelves, and pans are white enameled they can more easily be kept in a sanitary condition. It is well to have two covers, so that a fresh one can be used each week and the soiled one washed and sunned. PLAN No. 820. THE COLD BOX For keeping food during cool weather, a cold box will be found very satisfactory. An ordinary light box can be used or one can be easily and cheaply made for this purpose. The box is fitted to the outside of the kitchen or pantry window. The north exposure is the coolest location. Raising the window gives access to the cold box. By this arrangement the light from the upper half of the window is still available. [Illustration: Fig. 13.--Cold box.] The window sill is extended by a shelf which is supported by wooden brackets. The cold box rests on the window sill and the extended shelf, and is fastened to the window casing by screws or nails near the top and bottom of each end of the box. During warm weather, when the box is not in use, it may be removed if desired. The box should have a sloping roof to shed the rain. Holes for ventilation are made in the ends of the box and screened. Shelves in the box may be made of heavy screening or poultry netting or of wood. They rest on cleats fastened to the sides of the box. Food placed in this box should be covered so as to protect it from dust. PLAN No. 821. EQUIPMENT FOR HOME BUTTER-MAKING There is no secret in making good butter. With proper care and attention to details good butter can be made in any farm home. The quality of the butter is dependent upon the intelligent use of equipment rather than the kind, although suitable equipment is time-saving and labor-saving and can be purchased and made at a nominal cost. [Illustration: Fig. 14.--Equipment for home butter making.] Milk vessels should be of high-grade tin with all joints and seams smoothly soldered so that there will be no crevices in which dirt may accumulate. A convenient milking can to use is the three-gallon shotgun can. It should have a smooth, heavily tinned interior, to prevent rusting and difficulty in cleaning. All butter-making equipment should be thoroughly scrubbed with a brush in hot water containing sal-soda or washing powder. Never use a dish cloth or soap. Inexpensive stiff fiber scrub brushes or vegetable brushes can be purchased at any grocery or hardware store. After equipment is washed it should be scalded or steamed. A home made sterilizer will be found most convenient and helpful. (Write for Farmer’s Bulletin No. 748, Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C.) A medium sized dipper strainer with a fine-meshed gauze has been found to be very satisfactory. It should be smooth and free from seams. Butter should not be touched or handled with the bare hands. It injures the quality of the butter and is very insanitary. Wooden ladles can be easily whittled from maple, ash, or poplar or bought at a small cost. A thermometer is absolutely essential to successful butter-making. Controlling temperatures is second only to keeping equipment clean. A floating dairy thermometer can be ordered from any dairy supply company. In making butter the salt should be uniformly distributed and the granules pressed together into a close-grained mass and the surplus water worked out. This can most easily be accomplished by use of a V-shaped lever butter worker made of one-inch material. This worker is made of maple, ash or poplar, the material of which all wooden butter equipment is made. Any woods from which odors or flavors might be absorbed by the butter should not be used. For the amount of butter made in most farm homes a butter worker 18 inches long, 16 inches at the wide end and 2¹⁄₂ inches at the narrow end is a convenient size. The sides are 3 inches wide and are screwed to the bottom. The corrugated roller having six or eight sides is 24 inches long. One end of the roller is shaped to fit a small hole made in the pieces across the narrow end of the worker. This end piece is of a width that leaves a slot just above the bottom of the worker which allows the water to drain off into a pan as the roller is pressed firmly backward and forward over the butter. The worker rests on three knobs or supports. The two knobs at the wider end are 3¹⁄₂ inches high, while the knob at the narrow end is 2¹⁄₂ inches. The most popular, convenient, and attractive butter mold is the brick-shaped or square-cornered shape. This mold can be made of ⁵⁄₈-inch material. The mold most commonly used is 4⁵⁄₈ by 2¹⁄₂ by 2³⁄₈ inches. An inch hole is bored through the center of the top and through the center of a plunger which fits closely into the mold. Through the hole in the top of the mold is inserted the round handle which screws into the hole in the plunger. Most satisfactory molds of this type can be found on the market. When butter is to be sold, parchment papers 8 by 11 inches should be used to wrap the pound print. Also neat and attractive paper butter cartons should be used when butter is put on the market. It will bring a better price if packed well. To make the butter-making equipment complete, a barrel churn should be added. The barrel churn is generally recognized as the most convenient and efficient kind of churn in use. When an extra large quantity of milk is handled it pays to use a cream separator. A separator insures more and better butter. PLAN No. 822. CHEESE-MAKING EQUIPMENT Cottage, Neufchatel, plain cream, and pimento cream cheese can be made in the farm home where a surplus supply of milk is available. Cheese is not only a very valuable food but if a first-class product is produced a good market can easily be found for it. The equipment for making cheese is very simple and most of it could be made at home. The rack for draining the cheese is 16 inches deep, 12 inches wide, and 24 inches long, and is made of pine. The bottom slats which hold the pan under the draining cloth fit into notches made in the lower side strips and can easily be removed when the rack is washed. The corner posts extend ³⁄₄ inch above the strips at the top and the corner loops of muslin or cheesecloth drain cloth are looped over the posts. A similar rack, as described, could be made out of an orange or vegetable crate. The press is made of two poplar or maple boards 1¹⁄₄ inches thick and 14¹⁄₂ inches square. Strips of wood 1³⁄₄ inches wide are nailed or screwed on the back of each board to prevent them from warping. The boards are planed and sandpapered until perfectly smooth. The lower board has a circular groove which has an outlet through which the whey drains as it is pressed out of the curd. [Illustration: Fig. 15.--Cheese-making equipment.] A wooden paddle, a dairy thermometer, and a food chopper or sausage grinder with molding tube complete the necessary equipment. The molding tube or cylinder could be made by a tinsmith or can be ordered through a hardware dealer. The paddle can easily be made. The molding tube or stuffing attachment which is attached to the food chopper molds the Neufchatel and cream cheese into attractive and convenient molds for the market. The cheese can also be packed into small glass jars by placing the opening of the jar over the end of the tube through which the cheese is forced. The pimento cream cheese is always put on the market in small glass jars. PLAN No. 823. THE SHOWER BATH Better bathing facilities are often needed in homes where bathrooms are not found. A cheap and convenient shower bath can be easily made and used in the kitchen or on the back porch. The shower bath is especially useful in homes where there are children. A hole is cut in the bottom of a four gallon bucket and a piece of pipe 2 inches long soldered in the opening. Rubber tubing 4 to 6 feet long is attached to the pipe and a nozzle is fitted on the end of the rubber tubing. A sprinkler from a water can may be used instead of the nozzle. The bucket can be raised or lowered to suit the convenience of the person taking the bath by a rope fastened to the handle of the bucket and run through a pulley which is fastened with a staple to a joist in the ceiling. The end of the rope is looped over a hook, which is driven securely into the window or door facing, or into the studding in the wall. [Illustration: Fig. 16.--The shower bath.] A clothespin closed over the rubber tubing serves as a stopcock to cut off the water if desired. The shower can be better regulated by using a device such as is shown in the illustration. The end of a piece of No. 12 or 14 wire is fastened to a disk of leather or tin, or a cap of a tin can, by making a hole in the material used, running the wire through and looping the end. This disk is placed over the hole in the bottom of the bucket and the attached wire extends through the rubber tubing and the nozzle. The shower can be regulated by the disk being raised and lowered by means of the wire. The weight of the water in the bucket on the disk will form a sufficient seal when no flow is desired. A large tub is placed under the shower, in which the bather stands. The tub and bucket are more attractive when given two coats of white paint and one coat of white enamel. PLAN No. 824. WELL PROTECTION AND INEXPENSIVE WATERWORKS FOR A FARM KITCHEN The three important principles to consider in the subject of water supply for the farm home are: (1) It is necessary to have clean water, (2) there should be convenient and serviceable equipment to furnish running water in the house, and (3) this convenient supply of safe water should be secured with economy. The first and most important consideration is to get a supply of clean water. By clean water is meant water which is both clear and pure. Good farm water supplies are usually obtained from wells, springs and cisterns. Water from wells on farms is frequently contaminated and contains the source of disease. Contaminated water may be the cause of outbreaks of typhoid fever, dysentery, and other intestinal disorders among the members of the family. [Illustration: Fig. 17.--Dug well, concrete or cemented-brick lining.] Both shallow-dug wells and deep-bored wells may be polluted by the entrance of filth, vermin, unclean water at the top and also by seepage of contaminated soil water. These are the results of poor location of wells, generally unclean surroundings, open or loose well curbs, the absence of a well lining, or the presence of a poor well lining. The first step in securing a clean water supply is to remove all sources of possible contamination. Among the worst of these is the open privy vault, the leaching cesspool, and barnyard filth. A well in ordinary pervious soil, located lower than and within 100 feet of any of these, is almost certain to be contaminated. The well itself should be located as high as possible with regard to buildings, stock pens, and chicken yards, and as far away from all sources of contamination as convenience and local surroundings will permit. The final safeguards to a well-water supply are to provide an impervious lining of concrete, cemented bricks, cemented tile, or iron casing, and to provide a water-tight curb, not only to keep out surface wash, animals, and vermin, but to prevent the pump drip and dirt from shoes and bucket from entering the well. [Illustration: Fig. 18.--Dug well, vitrified tile lining.] [Illustration: Fig. 19.--Bored well.] [Illustration: Fig. 20.--Driven well.] The same precaution with reference to the entrance of filth and polluted water from the surface apply to underground cisterns. Springs are subject to contamination by surface wash and because animals have access to them. They can be protected by fencing in from animals, walling in the spring to form a covered and water-tight reservoir, and by keeping the surroundings clean. Spring water should be kept under close observation for any signs of surface pollution, especially those springs occurring in limestone regions. Having secured a clean water supply, the next step is to provide equipment to furnish running water in the kitchen at the turning of a faucet or by merely pumping. If the well or cistern is located close to the house, one of the simplest and cheapest methods of obtaining running water for the kitchen in the warmer climates is to place a covered barrel or other supply tank on a shelf outside the kitchen wall in such a position that it can be filled from the pump through a hose, as desired. A pipe attached to the bottom of the barrel or tank and passing through the wall has attached to it a faucet over a sink in the kitchen. The hose is detachable and can be removed from the pump when not in use. [Illustration: Fig. 21.--Simple water-supply system for farm kitchen.] The sink is connected by lead pipe through a trap to a drain, which should consist of cast iron soil pipe when it is used anywhere in the immediate neighborhood of the well or cistern. Do not under any consideration use cemented tile for the purpose within 30 feet of any source of water supply. When far enough away from the house or well this drain can empty into an open jointed drain tile which may be placed in the garden soil or any other pervious soil, thus disposing of the waste water by absorption. The disposal tile should have a fall not to exceed 1 inch in 50 feet, else the water will rush to the lower end and water-log the soil. In very porous or sand soils 1 foot of 3 or 4 inch tile per gallon of discharge per day is sufficient. In heavier loam or clay soils 2 feet of tile are necessary and sometimes more for every gallon. Aeration of heavy soil can be brought about by the use of coarse cinders or gravel laid in the bottom of the tile ditch. Where there is danger of freezing or where the well is very close to the house, about the simplest and cheapest method is to place a pitcher pump or force pump over a sink in the kitchen. The suction pipe of the pump may be attached to the well or cistern and water obtained when desired merely by pumping. This is provided the vertical distance from the pump to the water in the well does not exceed 20 feet, as under ordinary circumstances a pump will lift water satisfactorily by suction only to about that height. The allowable distance from the well to the pump for this arrangement will vary with local conditions, cases having been noted where the distance was as far as 200 feet. As water meets with resistance in pipes, due to friction, elbows, and bends, it is well to take off about 2 feet from the allowable vertical pumping lift for every 100 feet the water is drawn horizontally. From the standpoint of economy, which is the third consideration, all local conditions which would have a bearing on obtaining clean water and putting it into the house with convenient and serviceable equipment should be determined. No matter how cheap this system, if the water is not clean or the equipment is not serviceable or convenient, the investment is a poor one. Plan first of all to do the necessary work to give absolutely clean surroundings; next secure the proper material to protect the well. By inquiry as to local prices of material and labor the cash outlay needed can be easily determined. In the majority of cases it will be found that the well or spring can be protected by the use of the material available on the farm, such as old bricks, stones, etc., with a cash outlay for little except cement, or in case of a bored well, iron casing. The same principle should be applied in planning the water equipment. All material available on the farm or in the locality should first be used and only such cash expenditure should be made as is necessary to make the system complete, serviceable, and convenient. It will be found on a great many farms that the two systems briefly outlined can be obtained for a moderate outlay of cash for the pump, sink, pipe, and fittings. In many cases the pump is already installed. Thus by the proper utilization of material and labor available on the farm and by a small cash outlay, cleanliness, convenience, comfort, and economy in the water supply can be obtained, the value of which can not be estimated. PLAN No. 825. FLY TRAP Fly control should begin at the breeding places. All refuse and other substances in which flies may breed should be disposed of immediately. Fly traps should be placed around the house and stable and in places frequented by flies, so as to catch them whenever they appear. It is necessary to use bait to attract the flies. After they are caught they may be destroyed by pouring hot water over the trap and then burning the flies. Any woman, without hammer or saw, can easily make a fly trap. The dimensions will depend upon the size of trap desired. Non-rustable screen wire should be used. A straight rectangular piece of screen wire is used for the cylinder of body of the trap. This blanket is stitched with heavy thread to prevent the wire from raveling. The cone is made of a circular piece of screen wire from which a sector or V-shaped piece has been cut, and a small hole is cut at the center which permits the entrance of the flies. A binding of heavy muslin or denim is sewed around the edge of the cone. The cone is slipped up into the cylinder. It must be large enough to fit tightly. It is made secure by the bound edge being sewed to the cylinder. The top of the trap is made of a circular piece of wire which exactly fits the top of the cylinder. On the edge of this piece is sewed a piece of binding. On this edge is sewed a piece of wire 2 inches wide which forms the rim of the top of the trap. This top fits on the cylinder snugly and is held in place by pieces of tape. The legs of the trap are made of bent wire. [Illustration: Fig. 22.--Fly trap.] The trap should be thoroughly scalded every few days. The following may be used for baits--sour or skim milk to which a little sugar has been added; meat or fish scraps; bread and milk to which sugar has been added; and sugar, vinegar, and water. PLAN No. 826. WINDOW SCREENS All outside doors and windows should be screened. It will be an economy to buy the screen doors. For both doors and windows use non-rustable screen wire. A very cheap, convenient and easily made window screen is shown in Fig.