9. EAT MORE POULTRY AND EGGS:

Poultry and eggs are highly nutritious foods. For further information or individual advice on poultry raising write to your State Agricultural College, or to the Animal Husbandry Division, Bureau of Animal Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. PLAN No. 221. RAISING CANARIES A Philadelphia lady who was fond of canaries, and was an adept in their breeding and care, netted over $1,000 every year by raising these beautiful songsters and selling them to people of wealth in various parts of that city. But to make a success of this venture, one must thoroughly understand canaries from every point of view. PLAN No. 222. LAUNDERING LINGERIE A Chicago woman, made a comfortable living by laundering and mending lace and other fine articles of women’s wear, which could not be entrusted to a washer woman. She went among the wealthy people and solicited this work. PLAN No. 223. SMALL-TOWN MANICURING A young lady, in a Western Washington town, too small to support a professional manicurist, made a good living by studying up on the treatment and care of the nails and hands, and offering her services to the well-to-do people of her town. They were greatly pleased that they could have this service performed for them without going to the city, and kept the young lady busy, at a compensation that afforded her an excellent living. PLAN No. 224. SHAMPOOING AND HAIR DRESSING A woman who lived in a small town some distance from a city, where there were many families of wealth, found field for her talents in shampooing and dressing the hair of women and children. Possessing a pleasing personality, she called upon the leading ladies of the place and offered to come to their homes at stated intervals, for the purpose of caring for the hair of the ladies and their daughters, at a stipulated sum per hour, assuring them of satisfactory service. Her offer was accepted by most of the women she visited, and she found her time fully occupied. PLAN No. 225. MARKETING EGGS BY PARCEL POST Acknowledgment is due to the United States Department of Agriculture for the following plan. Contribution from the Bureau of Markets, Charles J. Brand, Chief. Whether the marketing of eggs by parcel post should be attempted by any particular producer will depend on his present available markets, the possibility of securing a satisfactory customer or customers, and the care taken to follow tested and approved methods in preparing the eggs for shipment. Failures in attempting to ship eggs by parcel post have resulted because proper precautions as to package or container, packing, and labeling were not observed. This article presents conclusions from investigations made by the Office of Markets and Rural Organization in cooperation with the Post Office Department and gives detailed information as to the use of the parcel post. [Illustration] The practicability of shipping eggs by parcel post is demonstrated by the fact that more parcels of eggs than of any other one product pass through the mails. In order to test various methods of packing and handling eggs the Office of Markets and Rural Organization has shipped more than 700 dozen eggs through the mails from various points, under various conditions, and in different types of containers, without undue loss, either in the expense of shipment or the condition of the eggs on reaching the consumer’s kitchen. While the great bulk of eggs which come from distant producing territory will continue to be shipped by other methods, it is no doubt true that many cities can be supplied with a considerable portion of their fresh eggs from within the first and second zones by parcel post to the advantage of both producer and consumer. By such direct contact the producer should secure somewhat better prices for his eggs than are realized by present methods of marketing, and the consumer should obtain a fresher quality at no increased cost, or, frequently, even at a reduction in price. The producer who does not have satisfactory marketing facilities may find in the parcel post a means of solving his egg-marketing problems. This applies especially to the man whose flock is so small that he can not make case shipments, i. e., shipments in the regular 30-dozen-size egg case. SUMMARY OF RESULTS OF EXPERIMENTAL SHIPMENTS Four hundred and sixty-six shipments were made in the experiments. They comprised a total of 760¹¹⁄₁₂ dozens, or 9,131 eggs, in lots of from 1 dozen to 10 dozen each. The number of eggs broken was 327, or slightly less than 3.6 per cent of the whole number. Of these, 209 eggs, or slightly less than 2.3 per cent, were broken too badly to use; the remaining 118 were usable. If 91 eggs broken in parcels known to have received violent usage be eliminated, the breakage resulting in loss is less than 1.3 per cent. The instructions issued by the Post Office Department for the handling of fragile mail matter (which includes eggs) are carefully drawn and quite ample. If the proper preparations were made for mailing, and if all employees of the Postal Service could be educated to observe the instructions faithfully, the breakage could be reduced to a negligible minimum. These experimental shipments were made over various routes and distances, including not only local shipments over short routes but points as far away from Washington as Minneapolis, Minn., and the Rocky Mountains. They began in October, 1913, and extended to February, 1914, thus including the holiday rush. The shipments were sufficiently numerous to justify the conclusion that eggs can be shipped by mail satisfactorily under the existing postal provisions, provided these are rigorously observed. THE EGGS The successful use of the parcel post for marketing eggs imposes the need of great care on the producer. Only such eggs should be shipped as are produced by healthy fowls kept under proper sanitary conditions and supplied with sound, wholesome feed. If possible, only infertile eggs should be produced for market; fertile eggs deteriorate rapidly and are the cause of much loss. A broody hen on the nest, or exposure to a temperature from other sources sufficient to start incubation, causes all such eggs to be rejected when they are candled. Eggs should be cared for carefully, beginning with keeping the fowls, under such conditions that the eggs will not be soiled in the nest by mud from the feet of the hens or otherwise; they should be gathered at least once a day (twice would be better) and should be stored in a well-ventilated place, which must be kept as cool as possible. Eggs intended for high-class trade should never be washed, as washing removes the natural mucilaginous coating of the egg and opens the pores of the shell. Eggs which are soiled should be kept for home use or disposed of otherwise than to a parcel-post customer. In spite of the greatest care it will sometimes happen under ordinary farm conditions that an occasional bad egg will appear among those sent to market. It would be wise to candle every egg shipped. Candling is “the process of testing eggs by passing light through them so as to reveal the condition of the contents.” A simple candling outfit may be made of an ordinary pasteboard box sufficiently large to be placed over a small hand lamp after the ends have been removed. The box should have a hole cut in it on a level with the flame of the lamp. Several notches should be cut in the edges on which the box rests, to supply air to the lamp. The box should be sufficiently large to prevent danger from catching fire. The one shown in figure 1 is made of corrugated pasteboard; ordinary pasteboard will serve the purpose. Candling is done in the dark, or at least away from strong light, and each egg is held against the hole in the side of the box, when its condition may be seen. An egg that shows any defect should not be marketed. [Illustration: Fig. 1.--This cut illustrates a homemade candling outfit, consisting of small lamp and corrugated pasteboard box.] Only first-class eggs can be marketed successfully by parcel post. The shipping of bad eggs not only will cause dissatisfaction or even loss of the customer, but, in interstate shipments, will violate the Federal food law if there are more than 5 per cent of bad eggs in a shipment. The limit allowed, however, is no excuse for any bad eggs among those marketed. Persons desiring to build up a business of marketing eggs by this method should hatch their chicks early enough to have them begin laying in the fall season, when eggs are scarce and high priced. This will also result in more evenly distributed production throughout the year. PRESERVING EGGS IN WATER GLASS In the spring, when they are plentiful, eggs may be preserved for home use in a solution of water glass, so that those laid during the fall and winter season may be available for marketing. A standard grade of water glass can be obtained at drug stores for 75 cents per gallon, if bought in moderately large quantities. Each quart of water glass should be diluted with 10 quarts of water which has been boiled and cooled. Only strictly fresh, newly laid, clean eggs should be placed in the solution. The eggs may be packed in stone jars or crocks which have been washed thoroughly in scalding water and the water-glass solution poured over them, or the eggs may be placed daily in the solution by putting them down in it carefully by hand so as to avoid breaking or cracking them. The solution at all times should cover the eggs to a depth of at least 2 inches. The solution will not injure the hands. The jars should be put in a cool and preferably dark place before the eggs are deposited in them, and should not be moved, because breakage and loss may result. The water-glass solution may become cloudy, but this is a natural condition and should cause no alarm. [Illustration: Fig. 2.--This illustration shows two 2-dozen size corrugated pasteboard egg boxes. The one to the left is closed. The other is taken apart to show construction. The two inner pieces of the case fold around the egg fillers and slip into the outer case shown on top. In filling, the box is not taken completely apart but only opened up properly.] Eggs thus kept are good for all purposes, but the shells break rather easily in boiling. This trouble can be prevented by puncturing the end of the shell with a pin or needle just before boiling. Perhaps an occasional customer will be willing to buy eggs preserved in water glass, but they should be sold for just what they are and at a price mutually agreed upon by the producer and customer. CONTAINERS Experience has shown that frequently parcels are mailed in containers not sufficiently strong and inadequately prepared and protected. These are a cause of complaint. While the containers often can be secured more easily by the consumer, the producer should make it a point to secure, through his local dealer or otherwise, such containers or carriers as meet the requirements of the postal authorities and such as will carry the particular product in a satisfactory manner, so that he may have uniformity in them when he is shipping to a number of customers. Uniform containers and uniform pack are economical and desirable; otherwise he may lose his customer, and should the container or carrier not be sufficiently stout to stand the service it will not be worth returning as an “empty” to use again. The postal requirements for mailing eggs for local delivery are as follows: Eggs shall be accepted for local delivery when so packed in a basket or other container as to prevent damage to other mail matter. [Illustration: Fig. 3.--This picture shows a 10-dozen size box of corrugated pasteboard. The eggs are placed in four layers of 30 each.] This embraces all collection and delivery service within the jurisdiction of the postmaster of the office where the parcel is mailed. Eggs to be sent beyond the local office are to be prepared for mailing as follows: Eggs shall be accepted for mailing regardless of distance when each egg is wrapped separately and surrounded with excelsior, cotton, or other suitable material and packed in a strong container made of double-faced corrugated pasteboard, metal, wood, or other suitable material and wrapped so that nothing can escape from the package. All such parcels shall be labeled “Eggs.” Eggs in parcels weighing more than 20 pounds shall be accepted for mailing to offices in the first and second zones when packed in crates, boxes, buckets, or other containers having tight bottoms to prevent the escape of anything from the package and so constructed as properly to protect the contents. Such packages to be marked “Eggs--This side up,” and to be transported outside of mail bags. The ideal container must be simple in construction, efficient in service, and cheap. Simplicity of construction is essential, so that it may be assembled and packed or filled readily and rapidly. Any part which is to be opened should be so marked or notched as to indicate the part to pull up or out. It must be efficient in service to insure satisfaction to the shipper and to the receiver, and also to prevent damage to other mail matter by possible breakage and leakage. It must be inexpensive or it will defeat the object to be attained, which is a reduction of the cost of handling between producer and consumer. [Illustration: Fig. 4.--This photograph shows a fiber-board box filled with corrugated-pasteboard lining and fillers, or partitions, of the same material. Each egg has a wrap of one-faced corrugated pasteboard. The lining is raised to show the eggs; it shows dark against the lid.] Trials of many different styles and makes of containers or cartons for shipping eggs by parcel post were made. Quite a number proved satisfactory in extended trials. A few of them are illustrated in these pages for the purpose of showing in a general way their appearance and construction. Any container which meets the postal requirements and which serves the purpose properly can be used. _Information Relative to Securing Containers_ The experiment stations in the various States have information as to containers for parcel-post shipments of eggs, in consumer-size lots, and persons desiring information of this kind should not address the United States Department of Agriculture, but should address the director of the experiment station in their own States. The following list gives the post-office address of each station: Alabama: Auburn. Tuskegee Institute. Alaska: Sitka. Arizona: Tucson. Arkansas: Fayetteville. California: Berkeley. Colorado: Fort Collins. Connecticut: New Haven. Storrs. Delaware: Newark. Florida: Gainesville. Georgia: Experiment. Guam: Guam. Hawaii: Honolulu. Idaho: Moscow. Illinois: Urbana. Indiana: Lafayette. Iowa: Ames. Kansas: Manhattan. Kentucky: Lexington. Louisiana: Baton Rouge. Maine: Orono. Maryland: College Park. Massachusetts: Amherst. Michigan: East Lansing. Minnesota: University Farm, St. Paul. Mississippi: Agricultural College. Missouri: Columbia. Montana: Bozeman. Nebraska: Lincoln. Nevada: Reno. New Hampshire: Durham. New Jersey: New Brunswick. New Mexico: State College. New York: Geneva. Ithaca. North Carolina: Raleigh. North Dakota: Agricultural College. Ohio: Wooster. Oklahoma: Stillwater. Oregon: Corvallis. Pennsylvania: State College. Porto Rico: Mayaguez. Rhode Island: Kingston. South Carolina: Clemson College. South Dakota: Brookings. Tennessee: Knoxville. Texas: College Station. Utah: Logan. Vermont: Burlington. Virginia: Blacksburg. Washington: Pullman. West Virginia: Morgantown. Wisconsin: Madison. Wyoming: Laramie. PACKING EGGS FOR SHIPMENT The eggs for packing, if the trade requires it or if it can be done without any disadvantage, should be assorted as to size and color. Eggs irregular in shape, those which are unusually long or thin-shelled, or which have shells otherwise defective, should be kept by the producer for home use, so that breakage in transit may be reduced as much as possible. Regardless of the particular style or design of the container used, each egg should be wrapped according to parcel-post requirements, so that it will not shake about. Square-block tissue paper, which comes in packages of 500 sheets each, soft wrapping paper, or newspaper, should be used around each egg. Should the eggs shake about in the container, the danger of breakage in handling is increased. From the experimental shipments that have been made, it is clear that the packing should be attended to carefully. A little practice will enable the packer to do his work rapidly. _Weight of Egg Parcels_ Average hens’ eggs will weigh about 1¹⁄₂ pounds to the dozen, or 2 ounces apiece. The weight of a single dozen of eggs in a carton properly packed and wrapped for mailing will run from 2 to 3 pounds, depending on the nature of the particular container, the size of the eggs, and the packing and wrapping used. If the container be a very light one and the eggs small, the parcel may fall within the 2-pound limit, and the postage, therefore, within the first and second zones, or 150-mile limit, would be six cents. Most parcels containing a dozen eggs will exceed 2 pounds but will not reach 3; therefore the postage on them will be 7 cents within the first and second zones. A parcel containing 2 dozen eggs will add perhaps 2 cents to the postage, though sometimes only 1 cent, depending on the nature of the container and the packing and wrapping. It should be observed that the larger the parcel (within the size and weight limits) the cheaper is the postage, as the first pound of every package costs 5 cents within the first and second zones, while each additional pound, up to 50, costs but 1 cent; so that while a 1-pound parcel would cost 5 cents postage, a 2-pound parcel would cost only 6 cents, or 3 cents a pound. A 20-pound parcel would cost 24 cents, or 1¹⁄₅ cents per pound, and a 50-pound parcel would cost 54 cents, or but 1²⁄₂₅ cents per pound. _Shipping Eggs for Hatching Purposes_ [Illustration: Fig. 5.--This illustration shows 20-pound parcel-post scales, which will be found quite convenient for many household purposes requiring a small scale.] Shipping eggs intended for hatching purposes in the style of containers illustrated in this bulletin has been found satisfactory to a great many poultry breeders. Those who do not favor this way of packing can use the method ordinarily employed when eggs are to be shipped by express, which is covered by the following postal regulation: Eggs for hatching shall be accepted for mailing, regardless of distance, when each egg is wrapped separately and surrounded with excelsior, wood-wool, or other suitable material and packed in a basket, preferably with a handle, or other suitable container, lined with paper, fiber-board or corrugated pasteboard, in such a way that nothing can escape from the package. Such parcels shall be labeled “Eggs for hatching.” “Keep from heat and cold.” “Please handle with care,” or other suitable words, and shall be handled outside of mail sacks. The person receiving eggs for hatching should place them on the small end in bran or similar substance for 24 hours, in order that the germs may settle thoroughly before incubation is started. _Supplies for Shippers_ As the postal regulations require that every parcel must have on it the name and address of the sender preceded by the word “From,” each person shipping eggs by parcel post will find it convenient to have a rubber stamp similar to the following: From William Smith, Rural Corners, Pa. The stamp and an inking pad will cost about 50 cents. The postal regulations also require that parcels containing eggs are to be marked “Eggs.” For this purpose a rubber stamp having letters one-half inch high and reading “Eggs” should be used to stamp this word on each side of the parcel. Thus the nature of the contents will be apparent no matter which side is in view. The sender will soon learn how much postage each size of parcel requires. Parcel-post scales can be secured at reasonable prices. Scales are needed in the farm home on many occasions, and the parcel-post type will serve these other purposes also. They can be had for $2.50 and weigh up to 20 pounds. (See fig. 5.) “Union” scales having both a platform and a scoop attachment and weighing up to 200 or 300 pounds can be had for from $6 to $12, if desired. Boxes, wrapping paper, and twine should be bought in as large quantities as possible (say a year’s supply at a time), so that lower prices may be obtained. With proper organization it will be possible for several farmers to join in ordering containers by the thousand and other supplies in correspondingly large quantities. _Economical Size of Parcels_ In arranging with the customer as to the size and frequency of shipments it is wise to take into consideration the fact that the larger the parcel sent (i. e., the more eggs sent in one parcel) the cheaper will be the postage per dozen. It would be much more economical for the family that uses, say, 4 dozens a week to have them sent in a 4-dozen parcel once a week than to have them sent in two 2-dozen parcels at different times during the week; and the eggs, if produced under proper conditions and properly kept, would not deteriorate to any appreciable extent in that length of time. The same principle would hold good regardless of quantity used. Considering the cost of the container and the postage, the consumer usually will find it no economy to buy eggs for food by parcel post in less than 2-dozen lots. _Wrapping and Addressing Parcels_ The appearance of the parcel depends largely upon the manner in which it is wrapped. Odds and ends of paper and twine are not desirable for this purpose. Every producer who aims to make a business of shipping eggs by parcel post should procure a supply of good tough paper of the proper size to wrap his parcels, and also good, strong, though not too heavy, cord or twine that stretches very little. No matter what the design of the container there is always danger, should the parcel be subjected to excessive pressure or violence in any form, that the eggs may be broken and the contents leak out. In a large number of experiments it was found that when parcels were properly wrapped with good paper, even though there were quite a number of broken eggs in the parcel, in only a few cases did any leakage of the contents damage other mail matter. A container badly stained from broken eggs should not be used again. Better a little less profit on a shipment of eggs than a displeased customer, who, displeased a few times, will cease to be a customer. It is a simple matter to wrap the parcels both rapidly and neatly. A little attention to the best manner of folding the paper in completing the wrapping will result in a securely and neatly covered package. This applies to parcels weighing less than 20 pounds--parcels exceeding 20 pounds need not be wrapped. To insure prompt delivery the address should be written plainly on the wrapping of the parcel. Much mail matter is delayed or altogether fails to reach its destination because of an incomplete or poorly written address. _Inclosures_ An inclosure stating the number of eggs and the price may be placed in the parcel, but no message of any kind may be included, as that would subject the package to the first-class postage rate. UNPACKING EGGS WHEN RECEIVED The person receiving the eggs should unpack them immediately to see if any have been broken. It may be desirable to have instructions printed on the outside of the container, and the following are suggested: “Please unpack and examine at once to see condition and to give proper attention.” Whether or not this is printed on the container, the shipper should have a distinct understanding with the consumer that this is to be done with every parcel received, so that information as to any unsatisfactory condition may be promptly obtained. RETURNING EMPTY CONTAINERS Many shippers will doubtless find it desirable and economical to have the customer save the containers and return them after a sufficient number have accumulated. When so returned the postage on empty cases still in usable condition is less than the cost of new ones. The consumer should receive credit for the postage required to return them. Many of the containers are made in “knocked-down” style, i. e., to take apart and fold so they can be made into a much smaller package or parcel. Containers which are knocked down to be returned should be packed in such a way that there will be no edges or points projecting without support or protection, as such projections are likely to be broken or crushed in the mails. The cost of the container is necessarily included in the price of the eggs to the consumer. It is therefore to the interest of the consumer to take proper care of containers and to save or return all that are in usable condition. Since the return of containers will have some effect on the price of the eggs, the proper spirit of thrift should cause the consumer to take care of all returnable empties and to send them back in accordance with whatever agreement or understanding may exist between the producer and himself. METHOD OF BRINGING PRODUCER AND CONSUMER TOGETHER One of the problems to the average farmer is how to secure customers who desire eggs direct from the farm. In other words, the question is, “How shall I come in contact with the person who wants my product?” An occasional contact may be secured through acquaintance in the city or town where a parcel-post market is sought. Contact might also be secured by a small advertisement in a city or town paper, stating the number of eggs available per week. The postmasters in a number of large cities have issued lists of consumers which ought to be helpful. In France city dwellers make these business arrangements in summer when in the country on their holiday. Consumers who will not take trouble about these relatively small things should not complain of the high cost of food products. Additional contact ought to be more easily obtained than the original contact, for the simple reason that if a producer supplies satisfactory eggs the person receiving them is almost sure to obtain other customers for him by speaking well of his product. It might be said that the reputation a parcel-post shipper makes with his first customers will very largely determine his success or failure in marketing by this method. The matter of holding business once secured and securing additional business is important. One of the serious drawbacks of ordinary farming is the great irregularity of income during the year. The development of a regular parcel-post business in eggs and the numerous other products that may be marketed by this means will increase the income and distribute it better throughout the year. Once a customer has been secured, every endeavor should be made to furnish strictly high-grade goods and to deal fairly, promptly, and satisfactorily, so that the customer may be retained. When a reputation has been established for products of high quality and for fair dealing, the holding of customers and securing new ones will be a comparatively simple matter. FIXING FAIR PRICES As the object of parcel-post dealing is to get slightly increased prices for the producer and better products at the same price, or the same class of products at lower prices, for the consumer, the question of arriving at prices fair to both is important. It is also difficult. It is not likely, at least not for some time to come, that eggs will be marketed so largely by parcel post that the ordinary marketing quotations can not be depended upon in arriving at prices. It ought to be a comparatively easy matter for a producer and a consumer to agree upon a stipulated market quotation as the basis for determining the price to be paid. A consumer may desire 5 dozen eggs per week, the price to be agreed upon being the number of cents per dozen above the wholesale quotation for the best grade of eggs on the market that week. The necessary relations in this matter can be maintained only by scrupulous honesty and well-founded mutual trust. CONTRACTS OR AGREEMENTS BETWEEN PRODUCER AND CONSUMER The nature of the agreement between the producer and the consumer, whether reduced to writing or not, should be made to suit the circumstances and must be fair to both. Perhaps the first agreement made should be in writing; but later, if mutual confidence and trust have been thoroughly established, the contract may be verbal. The matter of frequency and method of payment can be arranged in various ways. For the first agreement term, which may be a year or less, cash in advance might be satisfactory, until a definite system of orders and payments is established. The agreement should specify: (1) The names of the parties to the agreement. (2) The length of time during which the agreement is to be in force. (3) The number of eggs to be shipped each week during the time the contract runs, and also the frequency of shipment and the number in each shipment. (4) Price to be paid during the time of the contract, together with the base on which the price is fixed. (5) Method of adjusting claims for broken or bad eggs. (6) The consumer should open boxes properly (without cutting or tearing), and should take proper care of them and return them by mail as desired by the producer. (7) Frequency of payment and manner of remitting; postage paid on empties returned to the producer to be credited to the consumer on next bill rendered. For the reason that eggs are in very abundant supply in the spring season and in very short supply in the fall and early winter season, the contract should specify quantity to be supplied each week throughout the year. The producer can not expect the consumer to take all the eggs that are to be marketed in the season of greatest production, nor can the consumer expect to get as many eggs as he wishes in the season of lowest production; and these two extremes should be thoroughly understood and specifically mentioned in the agreement, so as to have no misunderstanding regarding them. In the season of short supply the consumer might be willing to try some eggs preserved in water glass, thereby relieving the situation. The producer in making an agreement with a consumer should undertake to replace or allow for eggs lost by breakage in shipping. Should this provision in the agreement be abused by any consumer it might be sufficient reason to refuse to contract again with that consumer, and of course satisfactory evidence of unusual breakage would need to be produced, and it might even be necessary to locate the cause of the breakage in the mails. The following is a suggested form of agreement: THIS Article of Agreement made this ...... day of ......, 1917, by and between JOHN DOE, of DOEVILLE, DOE County, Va., party of the first part, and RICHARD ROE, of 298 Bahama Avenue, Washington, D. C., party of the second part. WITNESSETH, That for the price of .... cents (....) per dozen above the wholesale price for best eggs quoted in the “Blankville News” on Tuesday of each week, the party of the first part agrees to supply the party of the second part .... (....) dozens of eggs weekly for the remainder of the calendar year 1917, each weekly consignment to be shipped in one parcel. Payments are to be made every four weeks on bill rendered by party of the first part to party of the second part after making proper allowance for eggs broken beyond use and for eggs otherwise unusable. The party of the second part is to receive credit for postage on empties returned and agrees to take proper care of containers, open them properly (without cutting or tearing), and to return them to the party of the first part as party of the first part may desire. If party of the first part require it, party of the second part agrees to return containers with broken eggs in place if he claims they are damaged beyond use. PARCEL POST ZONES The United States is divided into “units,” each one of which is numbered, as illustrated by the accompanying section of map. (See fig. 6.) The center of each unit constitutes the center of the zones for all post offices within that unit. The first zone consists of any given unit together with all the adjoining units, even though they but touch at the corner. The second zone embraces all those units within a radius of 150 miles from the center of any given unit, and the whole of any unit, any part of which is touched by this 150-mile boundary line, is considered entirely within that zone. [Illustration: FIG. 6.--This illustration shows a section of Parcel Post Zone Map for Washington, D. C., and all other post offices in Unit 1071.] There is separate zone map for each unit. The accompanying illustration shows a section of the map for the unit in which Washington is located. The second circle shows the nominal boundary of zone 2; but owing to the fact that all units which are touched by this boundary line fall entirely within the second zone, the units which are bounded by the heavy line (outside the second curved line) are entirely within zone 2. This principle applies to all other zones; that is, any unit which is touched at any point by the boundary of a given zone lies wholly within that given zone and is so considered for the purposes of the parcel-post service. Particular description is here given of the first and second zones because of the fact that the great bulk of the shipping of farm products by parcel post is likely to be done within these zones. The rate can be ascertained readily from the accompanying tables. _Local parcel post rates_ ======+======= Pounds|Postage ------+------- |_Cents_ 1 | 5 2 | 6 3 | 6 4 | 7 5 | 7 6 | 8 7 | 8 8 | 9 9 | 9 10 | 10 11 | 10 12 | 11 13 | 11 14 | 12 15 | 12 16 | 13 17 | 13 18 | 14 19 | 14 20 | 15 21 | 15 22 | 16 23 | 16 24 | 17 25 | 17 26 | 18 27 | 18 28 | 19 29 | 19 30 | 20 31 | 20 32 | 21 33 | 21 34 | 22 35 | 22 36 | 23 37 | 23 38 | 24 39 | 24 40 | 25 41 | 25 42 | 26 43 | 26 44 | 27 45 | 27 46 | 28 47 | 28 48 | 29 49 | 29 50 | 30 ------+------- Fifty pounds is the weight limit for local delivery. These rates are 5 cents for the first pound and 1 cent additional for each 2 pounds or fraction thereof; they apply to any parcel-post matter that does not go beyond the jurisdiction of the mailing office. _First and second zone parcel-post rates_ ======+======= Pounds|Postage ------+------- |_Cents_ 1 | 5 2 | 6 3 | 7 4 | 8 5 | 9 6 | 10 7 | 11 8 | 12 9 | 13 10 | 14 11 | 15 12 | 16 13 | 17 14 | 18 15 | 19 16 | 20 17 | 21 18 | 22 19 | 23 20 | 24 21 | 25 22 | 26 23 | 27 24 | 28 25 | 29 26 | 30 27 | 31 28 | 32 29 | 33 30 | 34 31 | 35 32 | 36 33 | 37 34 | 38 35 | 39 36 | 40 37 | 41 38 | 42 39 | 43 40 | 44 41 | 45 42 | 46 43 | 47 44 | 48 45 | 49 46 | 50 47 | 51 48 | 52 49 | 53 50 | 54 ------+------- The weight limit within the first and second zones is 50 pounds. These rates apply to all points within the first and second zones, as there is no difference in rates between these two zones. A simple rule to determine the postage on any parcel not going beyond the second zone is to add 4 to the number of pounds, and the resulting number is the postage required in cents. Example: A parcel weighs 13 pounds and 11 ounces; this will require postage on 14 pounds (as any fraction of a pound is considered a full pound); 14 + 4 = 18 cents postage. The weight limit for the third, fourth, fifth, sixth, seventh, and eighth zones is 20 pounds. Any information desired in regard to rates, zones, and other postal matters can be obtained from any post office. _Measurement Limits for Parcel-Post Mail Matter_ In addition to the weight limits shown in connection with the foregoing postage tables there is a measurement limit, which is the same for all zones. This limit is that the girth (measurement around) and the length added must not exceed 84 inches. For example, a parcel 12 inches square (48 inches around) and 36 inches long would be just up to the limit, as would also a parcel 15 inches square (60 inches around) and 24 inches long. A parcel cubical in shape and 14 inches in each dimension would measure 56 inches around, and to this would be added 14 inches for length, making 70 inches, or 14 inches less than the limit. _Receipt, Insuring and C. O. D._ If desired, a receipt can be procured from the postmaster acknowledging the mailing of a parcel on the payment of 1 cent. For 3 cents a parcel may be insured against loss if not valued at more than $5. A parcel may be sent collect on delivery for 10 cents. This also insures it for actual value not exceeding $50. PRACTICABILITY AND UTILITY OF THE PARCEL POST IN EGG MARKETING Under the present method the general farmer, or in most cases the farmer’s wife, sells the surplus eggs to the local storekeeper, taking their value out in trade. The parcel post offers an opportunity for a cash outlet at better prices. It should prove a valuable help, especially to those farms that are located unfavorably in regard to a consuming market. It is not too much to say that shipping by parcel post has been demonstrated as a practical proposition when properly conducted. To send a 2-dozen-size parcel would cost about as follows: For container and wrapping, 8 cents; for postage, 9 cents, or a total of 17 cents, which would be 8¹⁄₂ cents a dozen marketing cost. Marketing a 5-dozen parcel would cost about 13 cents for container and wrapping and 14 cents postage, or a total of 27 cents; a 10-dozen lot would cost about 22 cents for container and wrapping and 25 cents postage, or a total of 47 cents. These figures are based on container prices prevailing prior to July 1, 1914. The postage rates here used are those within the first and second zones. The rates to the third and farther zones are higher, and the advantages of marketing by parcel post consequently less. These figures include the cost of a new container each time. The experiments show that containers from the 4-dozen size up will stand on an average two to four trips very satisfactorily. Containers for smaller lots will stand on an average from three to five trips. As the postage cost of returning containers is considerably less than the price of new ones, the average expense for containers can be materially reduced from the figures quoted. DISADVANTAGES OR DIFFICULTIES IN MARKETING EGGS BY PARCEL POST If it is kept in mind that it takes a few days for eggs to reach the consumer, a regular supply of eggs can be had for use at all times. The possibility of broken eggs and the consequent adjustment of payment may seem to be a disadvantage, but if properly provided for in the agreement it need not be. The matter of arriving at equitable prices may seem to be difficult, but ought not be a drawback. Some farmers may be so situated that they already have a satisfactory market for their eggs. Others may wish to have a parcel-post market during a part of the year, but may dispose of them otherwise during the remainder of the year. The local market may also at times afford a more satisfactory price than that received under a parcel-post selling agreement. There may also be producers of large quantities of eggs who find express transportation cheaper than parcel post. The securing of proper containers and the wrapping and packing of the eggs properly for mailing, as well as the care that needs to be exercised in shipping only strictly first-class eggs, may seem difficult to some, but if a parcel-post market is to be developed, it will require care and attention to get it properly established and to keep it going successfully. DIRECT MARKETING OF LARGER QUANTITIES OF EGGS THAN PRIVATE FAMILIES REQUIRE The foregoing discussion applies especially to shipments of eggs for family consumption. It is likely that many producers will desire a larger outlet than is afforded by private families. These shippers may use containers such as are described in the postal regulations. They must come within the weight and measurement limits, however. The present 30-dozen commercial case exceeds the weight limits and would have to be forwarded by express. The express companies are now paying special attention to small shipments of food products, and furnish prompt and efficient service. Should an individual farmer not have enough eggs to ship alone a number of neighboring farmers may club together for the purpose of shipping eggs and may secure a purchaser in the person of a hotel, restaurant, or lunch-room proprietor, or a retail grocer in some town or city. The eggs from each farm should be packed in 1-dozen size cartons or fillers, which would take the place of the ordinary filler of the standard 30-dozen-size egg case. These cartons should have stamped on them the name and address of the producer, or instead of the name and address a number could be assigned to each farm for the purposes of identification. Each carton should be sealed so that any complaint in regard to quality can be traced to the individual producer. This is necessary in order to protect members of the club from complaints of delinquency not justly attributable to them.[2] [2] Farmers’ Bulletin 656, The Community Egg Circle, gives the details of such an organization. It can be obtained on request from the Division of Publications, Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Shipping by express presupposes that the producers concerned are within reasonable distance of express service, otherwise the expense of transporting the eggs to the express office might be prohibitive. It is hoped that these methods may enable the producer to realize better prices, and that at the same time the consumer will secure a fresher product. Eggs so handled and shipped will be fresher and in better condition than ordinary country-store or huckster-collected eggs. The average farmer pays scant attention to egg and poultry production, usually leaving matters relating thereto to his wife. Properly managed, however, this branch of farm industry may prove profitable. Indeed, it is not unlikely that a careful keeping of the cost of producing corn on many farms would lead to the conclusion that the family treasury had profited more by the activities of the hen than by raising corn. OPPORTUNITY OF EXTENSION OF PARCEL-POST MARKETING TO OTHER PRODUCTS It is quite possible that once having secured a parcel-post market for eggs many farmers having other commodities not readily salable at home may open up markets for them in the same way. Methods of arriving at prices would be the same, the producer advising the consumer as to the commodities, quantity, and price. By this means a market may be found for many products which are not now being marketed, mainly for the reason that they are in the nature of by-products or small surpluses over the family’s need which do not justify a special trip to market. There is also a field of opportunity open for development in making a special effort to produce such things as town or city residents are anxious to obtain, and by proper attention a supplemental income could be built up by developing such business. SUMMARY (1) In the experiments conducted in this study 760¹¹⁄₁₂ dozens, or 9,131 eggs, were sent through the mails in 466 shipments of from 1 to 10 dozens each. The total breakage was 327 eggs; of these, 118 were only cracked or slightly broken and were usable, and 209 (or 2.3 per cent) were broken beyond use. Ninety-one eggs were broken because the parcels containing them were handled contrary to postal rules and regulations. Subtracting these, the loss was only 1.3 per cent. This shows the possibility of shipping eggs by parcel post with small loss, and indicates that eggs may be so shipped with safety if existing postal regulations are observed. (2) Care should be exercised in the production of eggs so that they will be of as good quality as possible. The hens should be provided with proper quarters and fed on clean, wholesome feed. The production of non fertile eggs reduces the losses materially. After gathering, the eggs should be kept carefully in the coolest and best ventilated place available. (3) Trials of many styles and makes of containers were made; a large number proved satisfactory. The addresses of manufacturers of containers can be obtained from the agricultural experiment stations in the several States. (4) In selecting eggs for shipping by mail, thin-shelled and unusually long or irregular-shaped eggs should not be used. Each egg should be wrapped in sufficient paper to hold it snugly in its own individual compartment in the container. The container should be properly closed and carefully wrapped with good, tough wrapping paper and strong twine. The address should be written plainly to insure prompt delivery on arrival. The postal regulations require the name and address of the sender on the parcel also. (5) If attention is given to the necessary details, as indicated in this bulletin, eggs can be shipped by parcel post to the advantage of the farmer. This method of marketing affords a means of increasing the fresh-egg business to the benefit of both the producer and the consumer. (6) Farmers located out of reach of a satisfactory market or of the usual means of transportation can find in the parcel post a ready means of getting their eggs direct to a consuming market promptly and at prices that will justify the additional trouble involved in packing for mailing. PUBLICATIONS OF THE DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE OF INTEREST TO POULTRY RAISERS Farmers’ Bulletin 51. Standard Varieties of Chickens. Farmers’ Bulletin 287. Poultry Management. Farmers’ Bulletin 528. Hints to Poultry Raisers. Farmers’ Bulletin 530. Important Poultry Diseases. Farmers’ Bulletin 562. The Organization of Boys’ and Girls’ Poultry Clubs. Farmers’ Bulletin 574. Poultry House Construction. Farmers’ Bulletin 585. Natural and Artificial Incubation of Hen’s Eggs. Farmers’ Bulletin 624. Natural and Artificial Brooding of Chickens. Farmers’ Bulletin 656. The Community Egg Circle. Farmers’ Bulletin 682. A Simple Trap Nest for Poultry. Farmers’ Bulletin 703. Suggestions for Parcel-post Marketing. Further suggestions along this line may be found in Farmers’ Bulletin 703, Suggestions for Parcel-Post Marketing, which may be obtained on request from the Division of Publication, Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. PLAN No. 226. DRESSING CHRISTMAS DOLLS Having observed that of the thousands of dolls which are sold during the holidays very few of them are dressed to suit the tastes of buyers, this woman felt certain she could make a good living by dressing these dolls. She therefore prepared a circular letter which she sent to hundreds of selected homes in her city, asking to be allowed the privilege of dressing the children’s dolls according to her own taste, or that of the mothers of the little girls, and received invitations to call at the homes of a large number of these people. She did so, and so well did she demonstrate her ability for the work that she received many orders. Her charges were reasonable, and she developed a regular and paying business. PLAN No. 227. PAPER COVERS FOR SCHOOL BOOKS ASSIST IN PUTTING MAN THROUGH COLLEGE A young man in an eastern Washington town, who was obliged to work his way through the agricultural college, adopted, as one of his numerous plans for making money, that of providing substantial yet inexpensive manilla covers for school books. He bought from a wholesale paper store, a quantity of the best manilla paper at 4 cents a pound and, at a cost of 15 cents additional, had it cut into different sizes and the corners cut off on a regular paper cutter. The ends he cut off himself with a pair of shears, and pasted them down so they could be slipped on over any school book, to protect it. The cover, completed, cost him less than 2 cents each, yet he sold a large number of them for 5 cents each. Finally, he induced the school board to buy 5,000 of them, at 3¹⁄₂ cents each. He made enough in this to put him through the greater part of his first year’s schooling. He operated the same plan in other school districts the second and third years, and completed his course with the money he thus earned. PLAN No. 228. MAKING PAN-LIFTERS A woman in Lincoln, Nebraska, who knew the difficulties and dangers involved in lifting hot pans that have to be handled often, figured out a plan to make this work both safe and convenient. She made a belt to fasten around the waist, and on each side of the front she fastened a strip that came down nearly to the knees. On the ends of these strips she sewed small quilted pads about six inches square. These were always ready to use, and proved great time-savers and made the lifting easy. She was so well pleased with the one she made for herself, that she made up a hundred of them and went from house to house, explaining their advantages, and readily sold them at 25 cents each. PLAN No. 229. MONEY IN WINTER BULBS In late October or early November every year, a Massachusetts woman buys some plain glass dishes, about five inches wide and two or three inches deep. She then collects pebbles and places them in each dish, and on top of them, so they will not touch each other, she places fine narcissus bulbs, filling in around them with more pebbles, until the dish is quite full. Then adding water enough to fill to the top, she sets the dishes on the cellar floor and leaves them there until they are full of roots. She then brings them into a light, sunny room, and as soon as they are in bloom she takes them to the woman’s exchange, where they sell readily for 50 cents a dish. The cost of the dishes is 5 cents each, and the bulbs, six for 5 cents, so she makes 40 cents on each dish. PLAN No. 230. SELLING HICKORY NUTS A country woman with a grove of hickory trees on her farm, made $30 in one month gathering hickory nuts, which she sent to a friend in the city, who bought them at $1.50 per bushel. That was only twenty bushels, and people who live in localities where these nuts are plentiful could multiply that number many times by gathering them on a more extensive scale. PLAN No. 231. THUMBLESS MITTENS FOR CHILDREN What mother has ever been able to get a baby’s thumb into a mitten? And how long would it stay if she did? Then why have thumbs on baby’s mittens at all? These are questions a Canadian mother asked herself many times, and learned that there was but one answer: make the mittens without thumbs. And she did so. In fact, she found that no matter how many pair she made, the baby-outfitters gladly took all she could knit, sold them for 40 cents a pair, and charged her only a small commission for selling; as the materials cost less than 10 cents, her profit was large. She used white pompadour or saxony yarn, and a large steel hook, so the work was light, pleasant and profitable. PLAN No. 232. TAILORED HATS Here is the story of a Montana woman who discovered that she could make a better tailored hat for girls, and sell it for 50 cents, than the millinery stores ask $2 for, and she not only made one for her own little girl, but for a hundred or more other small misses, and realized a profit on every one she made. The material cost but little, while the work on the hats was no trouble at all, so she kept it up until she had supplied everybody of her acquaintance with the prettiest hats to be seen anywhere. She made them from a pattern published by a well known woman’s periodical; and it was so easy to follow it that the making of hats was a real pleasure. She also made nice hats for women, at $1.00 each, and on these the profits were still greater. PLAN No. 233. SELLING POTTED PLANTS A southern woman who was extremely fond of flowers lived in a town of 5,000 inhabitants in which there was no regular florist, so she began supplying the needs of the flower-loving people there by engaging in the business on a small scale herself, specializing on potted plants and cut flowers. She bought small plants, repotted them, and easily doubled her money on them. In their season she buys tomato and pansy plants and scarlet sage, as well as bulbs and roots, and holds regular flower sales at Easter, Christmas, Thanksgiving, Mother’s Day, etc., and always finds a demand for all her floral products. Recently she turned her back yard into a hot-house, and raises the plants herself, thus decreasing the cost and increasing the margin of profit. From one large bed, the seed for which cost 75 cents, she sells from $15 to $20 worth of plants every season. She also advises flower growers about flowers culture, color schemes, etc., and in many ways adds to the grand total of her yearly income. PLAN No. 234. BASKET MAKING A downeast woman learned basket making in the young people’s society of her church, and made it a regular business. She specializes in market and scrap baskets, but makes fancy reed ones to order. Her main sales are made through the woman’s exchange, though sometimes direct to customers, and her earnings are sufficient to support her very comfortably. This line of work is not overcrowded, and there is plenty of opportunity in it for many other women. PLAN No. 235. GROWING MUSHROOMS There are many methods of growing mushrooms, but the one adopted by this Michigan woman is perhaps as easy and profitable as any of them. First, providing a sufficient quantity of fresh manure and black dirt, she carefully prepares the beds and buys the spawn, and with but little care thereafter they produce a good crop every month in the year. In one bed 7 feet long by 2 feet wide, made from an old trunk lid and two soap boxes, she placed three bricks of spawn early in October, and eight weeks later picked 1¹⁄₂ pounds of mushrooms, which sold for $1.26 per pound. Then every two days thereafter, until May 1st, she picked from four to five pounds. The picking, packing and marketing are easy, and do not interfere with her regular household duties. She made $8 to $10 a week out of this industry, and recommends it to others who need something to help out with household expenses. PLAN No. 236. LUNCHES FOR SCHOOL CHILDREN A woman in Minnesota, whose income was very limited, was asked by the parent-teachers’ association to provide noon lunches for the pupils in the basement of a school building, the profit or loss to be her own. She had two long tables made of rough boards, covered with white oilcloth, and on these she spreads sandwiches made of minced ham, peanut butter, chipped beef and cheese, at 3 cents each; cake at 2 cents a slice, with milk, cocoa, soup, etc., at very low prices, yet which pay her a profit. She buys her material at wholesale prices, and makes a small profit on each article, so there is at least a comfortable living in it. At one o’clock her work is all done, and she has the afternoons and Saturdays at her own disposal. Not a very large enterprise, but it affords a living, and that is quite an item for a poor woman. PLAN No. 237. DESICCATED VEGETABLES An eastern woman, anxious to help her husband lift the mortgage from their farm, had been told of the possibilities of desiccated vegetables, and decided to try out the plan herself. By way of experiment, she desiccated some vegetables and dried them in the sun. These she soaked for an hour in cold water, poured off the water, and put the vegetables in with some meat she was stewing. In half an hour she had a fine Irish stew ready for the table. Calling in some of her neighbors, they formed a local company for manufacturing desiccated vegetables. The vegetables, dried to a small bulk, were easily shipped to grocers at a great saving in freight or express charges, the weight also having been reduced to almost nothing. The company employed several of its members to become traveling salesmen, and they took many orders, as dealers were glad to get the new product. A package containing enough potatoes, carrots and onions for a stew, was sold for 3 cents at retail or 2 cents wholesale. They sold well at all seasons, as they were a great saving to the housewife, and when put into water were as fresh and palatable as in their original state. PLAN No. 238. A PROFITABLE ADVERTISING PLAN A young man left Chicago some time ago and went to the Northwest for the purpose of increasing his earning power. Having first provided himself with twelve cartoon plates, with a strong home-trade argument under each cartoon, which a big newspaper syndicate had made for him, he stopped at a town of some 5,000 inhabitants and called upon the publisher of the leading newspaper. To him he made the following proposition: To obtain for his paper one or two pages of local advertisements to run every week for twelve weeks, and create a strong sentiment for patronizing home merchants and local industries, furnishing the cartoons and home-trade arguments, of which he showed proofs, and to divide the profits equally, though it was not to cost the publisher a cent, except the composition on the local ads. to be secured and set up; that for this home-trade page, the rates must be double his regular rates, so that he would get full price for his ads. Of course, the publisher accepted, and the Chicago man went to work. In three days he had contracts signed up for enough local ads. to fill two pages with the cartoon in the center of the page to run twelve consecutive weeks, the contracts to be left with the publisher, who was to collect and forward him his half, but the newspaper man willingly paid him one-fourth of the amount that would be due him at the end of the twelve weeks. In three days the Chicago man had made just $288. This plan will afford a good living to any advertising salesman. PLAN No. 239. BACKYARD POULTRY KEEPING Acknowledgment is due for this article to the United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. Contribution from the Bureau of Animal Industry, A. D. Melvin, Chief. In every household, no matter how economical the housewife, there is a certain amount of table scraps and kitchen waste which has feeding value but which, if not fed, finds its way into the garbage pail. Poultry is the only class of domestic animals which is suitable for converting this waste material, right where it is produced in the city, into wholesome and nutritious food in the form of eggs and poultry meat. Each hen in her pullet year should produce ten dozen eggs. The average size of the back-yard flock should be at least ten hens. Thus each flock would produce in a year 100 dozens of eggs which, at the conservative value of 25 cents a dozen, would be worth $25. By keeping a back-yard poultry flock the family would not only help in reducing the cost of living but would have eggs of a quality and freshness which are often difficult to obtain. Remember that eggs produced by the back-yard flock cost very little, as the fowls are fed largely upon waste materials. [Illustration: An illustration of the average back yard of the city man which may be turned to a profitable use by raising chickens.] ADVANTAGES OF HOME POULTRY The keeping of a small flock of laying hens on a town or village lot or in a city back yard is an important branch of poultry keeping. Though the value of the product from each flock is small of itself the aggregate is large. The product of such a flock, both in the form of eggs and fowls for the table, may be produced at a relatively low cost, because of the possibility of utilizing table scraps and kitchen waste which would otherwise be thrown away. A small flock of hens, even as few as six or eight, should produce eggs enough, where used economically, for a family of four or five persons throughout the entire year, except during the molting period of the fall and early winter. By the preservation of surplus eggs produced during the spring and early summer this period of scarcity can be provided for. The keeping of pullets instead of hens also will insure the production of eggs at this time. Not only will the eggs from the home flock materially reduce the cost of living, but the superior freshness and quality of the eggs are in themselves well worth the effort expended. Eggs are a highly nutritious food and are so widely used as to be almost indispensable, and an occasional chicken dinner is relished by everyone. Where conditions render it feasible and cheap small flocks of poultry should be kept to a greater extent than at present by families in villages and towns, and especially in the suburbs of large cities. The need for this extension of poultry raising is particularly great in those sections where the consumption of poultry products exceeds the production, with the result that prices are high. OVERCOMING OBJECTIONS TO KEEPING POULTRY IN THE CITY Objection is frequently raised to the keeping of poultry in towns and cities because of the odor which may result and also because of the noise which is made by roosters crowing, particularly in the early morning. In some cases city regulations have been formulated to prevent or to control poultry keeping. Where there are city regulations it is necessary to find out their provisions and to conform to them. There is no necessity for the poultry flock to become a nuisance to neighbors. If the dropping boards are cleaned daily and the houses and yards are kept in a reasonably clean condition there will be no annoying odors. The male bird need not be a nuisance. Unless it is intended to hatch chickens from the flock it is unnecessary to keep a male bird. The fact that there is no male in the flock will have absolutely no effect on the number of eggs laid by the hens. If it is desired to mate the hens and to hatch chicks the male bird should be sold or eaten just as soon as the hatching season is over. This is desirable not only for the purpose of eliminating noise, but also to save the feed that would be eaten by the male and for the reason that the eggs produced after the male is disposed of will be infertile. Since these eggs are incapable of chick development they keep much better than fertile eggs and consequently are superior for preserving or for market. [Illustration: Fig. 1.--Poultry house and run in a back yard.] The flock must be kept confined; otherwise the hens will stray into neighbors’ yards and gardens, where they may cause damage and are almost sure to cause ill feeling. KIND OF FOWLS TO KEEP Householders usually desire not only eggs for the table and for cooking, but also an occasional chicken to eat. For this reason one of the general-purpose breeds, such as the Plymouth Rock, Wyandotte, Rhode Island Red, or Orpington, is preferable to the smaller egg breeds, such as the Leghorns. Not only do the mature fowls of these breeds, because of their larger size, make better table fowls than the Leghorns, but the young chickens for the same reason make better friers and roasters, whereas chickens of the egg breeds are only suitable for the smaller broilers. The general-purpose breeds are also “broody” breeds, the hens making good sitters and mothers, which is a decided advantage when it is desired to hatch and raise chickens, since the hens of the egg breeds seldom go broody and are in any event rather unreliable sitters and mothers. If, however, the production of eggs outweighs the desire for an occasional table fowl, the lighter egg breeds undoubtedly will be found better, because they lay as many eggs and do so on less feed, with the result that they produce the eggs more cheaply. It is by all means advisable to keep some pure breed or variety. Where this is done, sales at a profitable figure can often be made of breeding stock which it is intended to market or of eggs for hatching. SIZE OF FLOCK The size of the flock which can be most efficiently kept will depend first of all upon the space available and, secondly, upon the amount of table scraps or other waste which is available for feed. It is a mistake to try to overstock the available space. Better results will be obtained from a few hens in a small yard than from a larger number. The back-yard poultry flock rarely will consist of over 20 or 25 hens and in many cases of not more than 8 or 10, or occasionally of only 3 or 4. For a flock of 20 to 25 hens a space of not less than 25 by 30 feet should be available for a yard. Where less space is available, the size of the flock should be reduced, allowing on the average 20 to 30 square feet per bird. A few hens are sometimes kept successfully with a smaller yard allowance than this, but if the space is available a yard of the size indicated should be used. [Illustration: Fig. 2.--A back-yard poultry plant. In the background are the poultry houses set up off the ground on accounts of rats. At the left is a shade made of wooden strips and roofing paper. At the right are the coops for the hens and chicks. In the foreground oats for green feed are being sprouted under wire screens.] PROCURING STOCK The best way for the city poultry keeper to procure hens is to purchase them in the fall. An effort should be made to obtain pullets rather than older hens, and the pullets selected should be well matured, so that they will begin to lay before the cold weather sets in. Evidences of the maturity of pullets are the development and red color of the comb and a size and growth which are good for the breed or variety. Hens will lay little or no eggs during the fall and early winter, while they are molting. Well-matured pullets, however, should lay fairly well during this period, so that an immediate return is realized from the investment. The purchasing of pullets in the fall is preferable in most cases to purchasing day-old chicks or to hatching chicks in the spring. Usually there is little space available for the raising of chicks, and, moreover, many city dwellers have had no experience in raising them. Under these conditions the results are apt to be very poor. Hatching and rearing chicks also necessitates broody hens for this purpose, or else investing money in artificial apparatus such as incubators and brooders. Such an investment is often too great to prove profitable with the average small flock. If chicks are raised, they must be fed throughout the summer and no return will be obtained until the pullets begin to lay in the fall, except that the males can be eaten or sold. [Illustration: Fig. 3.--A shed in the heart of the city utilized for a poultry house. While a larger opening in the front would admit more light and make a more suitable hen house, the fowls kept here have done very well. The wire netting used for the yard was purchased very cheaply at an auction. The grass and sacks shown on the top of the run are used to furnish shade.] When pullets are to be purchased, it is well if possible to go to some farmer or poultryman who may be known to the prospective purchaser. In some cases it may pay to make arrangements with the farmer to raise the desired number of pullets at an agreed price. Where the householder does not have an opportunity to go into the country for his pullets, he can often pick them out among the live poultry shipped into the city to be marketed. The advice of some one who knows poultry should be sought in making such a purchase, to make sure that pullets or young hens are obtained, and that the stock is healthy. Often the local poultry associations are glad to help the prospective poultry keeper to get stock by putting him in communication with some of its members having stock for sale. Sometimes the local board of trade or chamber of commerce is glad to help to bring together the prospective purchaser and the poultry raiser. HOUSING The flock should be comfortably but not expensively housed. A house which provides a floor space of 3 or 4 square feet per bird is ample for the purpose, and fowls are often successfully kept with an allowance no greater then 2¹⁄₂ to 3 square feet. Houses must be dry and free from draft, but must allow ventilation. Often there is an unused shed or small building on the place which can easily be converted into a chicken house (see fig. 3). The front of the poultry house should be faced toward the south, if possible, so that the sun will shine into it. Perfectly satisfactory houses can be made cheaply from piano boxes or other packing cases. Two piano boxes with the backs removed can be nailed together and a door cut in the end. These boxes should be covered with a roofing paper in order to keep the house dry and to make it wind-proof. A portion of the door should be left open or covered with a piece of muslin, so as to allow ventilation. (See figs. 4 and 5.) Similar houses can be constructed of packing cases at a relatively small cost. A small amount of 2 by 4 or 2 by 3 lumber can be purchased for framing. The box boards can be applied for siding or sheathing and then covered with roofing paper. Where there is a board fence it is sometimes possible to take advantage of this by building the poultry house in the corner of the fence and making the fence itself, with the cracks covered by strips or battened, serve as the back and one side of the house. [Illustration: Fig. 4.--Poultry houses, each of which is made out of two piano boxes. The two boxes are placed back to back, 3 feet apart, the back and top of each removed, a frame for roof and floor added, and the part between the two boxes built in with the boards removed from the boxes. The whole is covered with roofing paper. With piano boxes at $2.50 each, such a house can be easily and quickly constructed for $12. It will accommodate 12 hens comfortably.] A cheap house 8 by 8 feet square can be made of 2 by 4 inch pieces and 12-inch boards. Plans for such a house are given in figure 6. The 2 by 4 pieces are used for sills, plates, corner posts, and three rafters. No studding is required except that necessary to frame the door and window space. The boards are run up and down and add sufficient stiffness to the house. They are used also for the roof and covered with roofing paper. The back and sides of the house also can be covered with roofing paper, or the cracks can be covered with wooden battens or strips 1¹⁄₂ to 3 inches wide. In the front of the house there should be left a window or opening which can be closed, when desired, by a muslin screen or curtain which serves as a protection against bad weather but allows ventilation. In the side a door should be provided which will allow entrance. A shed or single-slope roof is best because easiest to build. A height of 6 feet in front and 4 feet in the rear is ample. If desired, the house may be built higher, so that it is more convenient to work in; the increase in cost will be slight. The ventilator in the rear is not needed in the northern part of the country, but is desirable in the South where summers are very warm. [Illustration: Fig 5.--Rear view of piano-box houses shown in fig. 4. The openings at the rear are provided for ventilation and coolness in the hot weather. Windows could be used instead of solid shutters and would make the houses lighter when closed.] Such a house would be ample for a flock of 20 to 25 hens. It can be built quickly and easily and is cheap in construction. The material required is as follows: BILL OF MATERIAL Roof rafters, 5 pieces, 2 by 4 inches by 8 feet long. Roof plates, 2 pieces, 2 by 4 inches by 8 feet long. Sills, 4 pieces, 2 by 4 inches by 8 feet long. Posts, 3 pieces 2 by 4 inches by 6 feet long; 2 pieces 2 by 4 inches by 4 feet long. Stringer, 1 piece, 2 by 4 inches by 8 feet long. Total pieces required to cut list: 7 pieces 2 by 4 inches by 16 feet long. 1 piece 2 by 4 inches by 12 feet long. Total feet in board measure, 81. ROOSTS AND DROPPING BOARD. 1 piece 2 by 3 inches by 16 feet long. 1 piece 2 by 3 inches by 10 feet long. Total board measure, 13 feet. 2 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 16 feet long. Total board measure, 32 feet. SHEATHING BOARDS Roof, 5 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 16 feet long. Two sides, 2 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 10 feet long; 3 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 12 feet long; 2 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 14 feet long. Front, 2 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 10 feet long. Back, 2 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 16 feet long. Total feet board measure, 216. BATTEN STRIPS. 130 linear feet ¹⁄₂ by 2 inch strips, 24 board feet. 24 linear feet ⁷⁄₈ by 2 inch strips, for curtain frame, 4 board feet. ROOFING 80 square feet roofing paper; nails and tins. HARDWARE 2 pairs 8-inch T hinges for door. 1 padlock for door. 3 pairs 4-inch T hinges for curtain frame and rear ventilator. 5 pounds 10-penny wire nails for framing. 10 pounds 8-penny wire nails for sheathing. 5 pounds 4-penny wire nails for stripping. 21 square feet poultry wire, ³⁄₄-inch mesh, for front. 3 yards muslin for curtain. 32 rough bricks will build piers. FLOOR If floor is desired in house, add the following material: 2 pieces 2 by 4 inches by 16 feet long. 4 pieces 1 by 12 inches by 16 feet long. Total feet board measure, 85. TOTAL LUMBER REQUIRED Without floor, 370 board feet. With floor, 455 board feet. Lumber can be rough or dressed. [Illustration: Fig. 6.--Plan of a simple back-yard poultry house.] When the soil is well drained and consequently will remain dry no floor need be used in the house, the ground itself serving as the floor. Often a slight dampness can be corrected by filling up the floor several inches above the outside ground with sand, cinders, gravel, or dry dirt. Three or four inches of the surface of the floor, and of the run if a very small run is used, should be removed and replaced with fresh dirt two or three times a year. If the ground is so wet or damp that this condition can not be corrected by filling it is best to provide a board floor as this will help to keep the house dry, will allow easier cleaning, and will promote the general health and welfare of the hens. A house with a board floor should be set on posts or blocks, so that it is 5 to 12 inches above the ground. When this space is left the floor will not rot so quickly and rats are not so likely to take refuge under the house. (See fig. 7.) [Illustration: Fig. 7.--A good type of open-front poultry house for a small flock. The front can be closed with a muslin curtain on cold nights. The house is set on brick piers so as not to afford a refuge for rats. Notice the nests built out on the front of the house where the eggs can be reached by raising the hinged cover.] In order to keep the flock in a clean and sanitary condition, dropping boards should be provided and roosts above them. This makes it easy to remove the droppings each morning and helps greatly to keep the house free from objectionable odors. A little sand or ashes sprinkled on the dropping board after each cleaning will be found to make the cleaning easier. The dropping boards and roosts should be placed against the back wall. Here they are out of the way and at the same time where they are least likely to be reached by drafts. The dropping boards should be about 20 to 30 inches from the floor, depending on the height of the building. This gives space enough under them so that the hens have room to exercise and is not too high for the heavier hens to fly up to. The roosts should be 3 or 4 inches above the dropping boards. If more than a single roost is used, they should be on the same level; otherwise all the hens will try to crowd upon the highest roost. A piece of 2 by 4 or 2 by 3, laid and with the upper corners rounded off, make a good roost. A pole, or even a piece of board 2 or 3 inches wide, may be used. If the roost is of light material and fairly long, it should be supported in the center, as well as at the ends, to prevent it from sagging badly. An allowance of 7 to 10 inches of roost space per fowl, according to the size of the birds, should be made. If more than one roost is used, they should be placed about 15 inches apart. Nests must be provided and may be very simple. Any box about 1 foot square and 5 or 6 inches deep is suitable. An ordinary orange box with the partition in the middle serves this purpose very well, each box forming two nests. The top is removed, the box laid on its side, and a strip 3 to 4 inches wide nailed across the lower front. (See fig. 9.) Nests can be fastened against the walls of the house or set on the floor. It is preferable to fasten them against the wall, as they take too much floor space if set on the floor. One nest should be provided for each 4 or 5 hens. [Illustration: Fig. 8.--A larger poultry house suitable for a suburban lot. Notice the old lumber, sash, etc., used in the construction. The utilization of such used material, which can often be purchased for a very slight sum at auction or where buildings are being wrecked, lessens the cost of the poultry buildings very materially.] The straw or other material used in the nest should be kept clean and not be allowed to get so low that the eggs when laid by the hen will strike the board bottom of the nest, as this will cause them to break and will start the hens to eating the eggs, which is a very troublesome habit and one that is very difficult to break up once it is formed. A litter of straw or the leaves raked up in the fall about 3 or 4 inches deep, should be used on the floor of the house. This material helps to absorb the droppings and also provides a means of feeding the grain in such a way that the hens are obliged to exercise by scratching for it. When hens become broody, they should be “broken up” as quickly as possible. for the sooner this is done the sooner they will resume laying. To break a hen of broodiness she should be confined to a small coop, preferably with a slat bottom. Give her plenty of water to drink; she may be fed or not as desired. Not much difference will be found in the time required to break her of broodiness, whether she is fed or made to fast. Usually from 3 to 6 days’ confinement will break her, but some hens require 10 to 12 days. The broody hen will be recognized by her inclination to stay on the nest at night, the ruffling of her feathers and her picking at anyone who approaches her, and by the clucking noise she makes. The fact that her broodiness has been broken up can be recognized by the disappearance of these symptoms. THE YARD The yard should be inclosed by a board or wire fence. Wire fencing is preferable, as it is cheaper and the hens are less likely to fly over it. If cats prove troublesome, where one is raising young chickens, it may be necessary to cover the top of the yard with wire also. A board should not be used at the top of a wire fence, as this gives the hens a visible place to alight and tends to teach them to fly over. A 5-foot fence is high enough for most conditions, but if the hens show a tendency to fly over such a fence the flight feathers of one wing should be clipped. The larger the yard which can be provided the better the hens will do, as it not only gives them greater opportunity to exercise, but also makes it possible to maintain a sod on the yard. In most cases not enough land will be available so that a sod can be maintained. [Illustration: Fig. 9.--An orange box converted into a double nest by laying it on its side and nailing strips across the front to hold in the nesting material.] If the yard is fairly large, it can be divided into two parts and green crops, such as oats, wheat, rye, or dwarf essex rape, allowed to start in one yard while the hens are confined to the other. (See fig. 10.) The green crops should be sown very thick, and the following quantities will be found satisfactory for a yard 25 by 30 feet: Wheat, 2³⁄₄ pounds; oats, 1¹⁄₂ pounds; rye 3¹⁄₄ pounds; rape, 5 ounces. When the growing stuff reaches a height of 2 or 3 inches the hens can be turned upon it and the other yard be similarly sown. Where it is inadvisable to divide the yard, it is possible to keep a supply of green stuff growing by using a wooden frame 2 or 3 inches high, covered with 1-inch-mesh wire. A frame made of 2 by 4 lumber, 6 feet long and 3 feet wide, with an additional piece across the center to support the wire when the hens stand on it, will be found desirable for a small yard. (See fig. 11.) A part of the yard as large as this frame is spaded up and sown, the frame placed over it, and the material allowed to grow. As soon as the green sprouts reach the wire the hens will begin to pick them off, but since they can not eat them down to the roots the sprouts will continue to grow and supply green material. This frame can be moved from place to place in the yard, and in this way different parts cultivated. The yard should be stirred or spaded up frequently if not in sod in order to keep it in the best condition. This will not only tend to keep down any odors which might arise, but also allow the droppings to be absorbed into the soil more readily and therefore keep the yard in better condition for the hens. Although it is necessary to keep the hens confined to their yard most of the time, it is sometimes possible to let them out where they may range upon the lawn for an hour or so in the evening when some one can be at hand to watch them, or at certain seasons of the year to allow them to run in the garden plot. This will be enjoyed greatly by the hens and will be very beneficial to them. [Illustration: Fig. 10.--Back-yard poultry house and flock. Notice the double yard. The green crop of the first yard has been fed off and the second yard is planted to rape, which is about ready to feed. The mulberry tree in the background provides, when the berries are ripe, nearly enough feed for a flock of 25 hens for three weeks.] FEEDING In feeding the city flock an effort should be made to do so as cheaply as possible, consistent with the production of eggs. To accomplish this, all table scraps, kitchen waste, etc., should be utilized. Scraps of meat or left-over vegetables which can not be utilized in any other way make excellent feed. There are also many other waste products, such as beet tops, turnip tops, carrot tops, potato parings, onion tops, watermelon and cantaloup rinds, the outside leaves of cabbages, waste lettuce leaves, bread and cake crumbs, etc., all of which are relished by the hens and can be used to the best advantage. In saving the scraps and waste it is well to separate the portions adapted for feeding to the flock and place these in a receptacle or pail of their own. Decomposed waste material or moldy bread or cake should never be saved to feed to the hens, as it is harmful to them and may cause serious bowel trouble. Sloppy material, such as dishwater, should not be thrown into their pail. It is also useless to put in such things as banana peels or the skins of oranges, as these have little or no food value. Any sour milk which is not utilized in the house should be given to the chickens. This should be fed separately, however, either by allowing the hens to drink it or by allowing it to clabber on the back of the stove and then feeding it in that condition. When the family’s table waste is not sufficient for feeding the flock, it is usually possible to get some of the neighbors who keep no hens to save material suitable for feeding. Many people are glad to do this if a small pail in which to place the waste is furnished. [Illustration: Fig. 11.--A frame made of 2 by 4 inch lumber and covered with ³⁄₄-inch mesh poultry wire used to sprout oats or other grain for the hens. The wire prevents the hens from eating the sprouts down so close as to kill the plants and from scratching out the roots. Sprouting grain unprotected will be quickly killed.] Table scraps and kitchen waste are best prepared for feeding by running them through an ordinary meat grinder. After the material has been put through the grinder it is usually a rather moist mass, and it is well to mix with it some corn meal, bran, or other ground grain until the whole mass assumes a crumbly condition. The usual method is to feed the table scraps at noon or at night, or at both times, as may be desired, in a trough or on a board. All should be fed that the hens will eat up clean, and if any of the material is left after one-half or three-quarters of an hour it should be removed. If allowed to lie it may spoil and would be very bad for the hens. With the table scraps it is well to feed some grain. Perhaps this may be given best as a light feed in the morning. Four or five handfuls of grain (about ¹⁄₂ pint) scattered in the litter will be sufficient for a flock of 20 or 25 hens. By handful is meant as much as can be grasped in the hand, not what can be scooped up in the open hand. By scattering it in the litter the hens will be compelled to scratch in order to find the grain and in this way to take exercise, which is decidedly beneficial to them. If the house is too small to feed in, the grain can be scattered on the ground outside. A good grain mixture for this purpose is composed of equal parts by weight of wheat, cracked corn, and oats. Another suitable grain mixture is composed of 2 parts by weight of cracked corn and 1 part oats. [Illustration: Fig. 12.--An intensive back-yard poultry plant. Practically the entire back-yard is occupied by houses and covered runs, and about 70 hens are carried. Each house is 6 by 14 feet, divided into two pens with a covered yard of the same size. Each pen carries about 15 hens. The houses are raised from the ground so that the hens can run under them. The soil in the runs is renewed four times a year. A flock of 13 hens in one of these pens laid 2,163 eggs in a year. Oats are sprouted in the cellar of the dwelling house for green feed. In addition, chickens are raised here.] In addition to the grain and the table scraps it is well to feed a dry mash. This dry mash is composed of various ground grains and is placed in a mash hopper or box from which the hens can help themselves. The advantage of feeding such a mash is that the hens always have access to feed, and this tends to make up for any fault, inexperienced, or insufficient feeding. The hens do not like the dry mash so well that they are likely to overeat, but it will supply a source of feed in case they are not getting enough. The dry mash also provides a suitable medium for feeding beef scrap, a certain amount of which may or may not be necessary, depending upon the amount of meat scraps available in the table waste. If the hens show a tendency to become overfat it may be desirable to close the mash hopper during a part of the day and allow them access to it only during a certain period, preferably the afternoon. A good dry mash is composed of equal parts by weight of corn meal, wheat bran, wheat middlings, and beef scrap. Another good mash is composed of 3 parts by weight of corn meal and 1 part beef scrap. Still a third mash, which has given excellent results, is composed of 1 pound of wheat bran, 1 pound of wheat middlings, 6.5 pounds of beef scrap, and 16.5 pounds of corn meal. The beef scrap used in the dry mash is usually the most expensive ingredient, but it is a very essential part of the mash and very efficient for egg production. It should not be eliminated or reduced unless the quantity of meat in the table scraps is considerable or unless some other product can be substituted for it. Fish scrap, when available, may replace the beef scrap, or cottonseed meal can be used to replace one-half the beef scrap in the mash. No attempt should be made to replace more than half the beef scrap with cottonseed meal, as the results in egg production and in the quality of the eggs will be unsatisfactory. Green cut bone can often be purchased from the butcher. This material when procured fresh makes an excellent substitute for beef scrap. It should be purchased in small quantities, as it can not be kept fresh for any length of time and when spoiled may cause severe bowel trouble. It is best fed in a trough not oftener than every other day, allowing about one-half ounce per bird. Should severe or continued looseness of the bowels follow the feeding of green cut bone it should be discontinued or the quantity reduced. Vegetable tops, parings, and other vegetable refuse supply a valuable and very necessary green feed for the hens. Lawn clippings also are a valuable green feed. They can be fed as soon as cut, or they may be dried or cured, stored in bags, and saved until winter, when they can be soaked in warm water and fed in that condition or be mixed with some of the mash or with the table scraps. [Illustration: Fig. 13.--Inclosure for hen and chicks with box used as a coop at the end. Both coop and run is moved each day to a fresh spot of ground. A burlap bag thrown across the top of the yard provides shade. Twenty-five chicks were put with a hen in this yard and 24 of them were raised, making good growth.] The hens should have access at all times to a supply of grit or stones of a size small enough to be swallowed readily. Grit is used by the hens to help in grinding in their gizzards the hard grains which they eat. A supply of ordinary gravel will answer the purpose of grit very well. Crushed oyster or clam shell also should be given to the hens and be kept before them at all times. If this is withheld the hens are likely to lack sufficient shell-forming material in their feed, with the result that they lay many soft-shelled or thin-shelled eggs. Grit or shell can be purchased in small quantities at any feed or poultry supply store. A plentiful supply of clean, fresh water must always be available to the hens. The fowls drink freely, especially when laying heavily, and should not be stinted of such a necessary and cheap material as water. The water pan or dish should be kept clean. If it is not washed out frequently a green slime will gather on its inner surface. This should not be allowed to happen. It is well to keep the water pan outside the house and in the shade in the summer, but in the winter, when the water may freeze, it is best that the pan be left in the house, and it should be raised about a foot above the floor so that the hens will not kick it full of straw or other litter when scratching for their feed. When the nights are cold enough so that the water is likely to freeze the pan should be emptied each night and refilled in the morning. LICE AND MITES If the best results are to be expected from the flock, the hens must not be allowed to become overrun with lice or the house with mites. Usually there will be a place in the yard where the hens can dust themselves in the dry dirt. If such a place is not available, a box large enough (about 2 feet square) for the hens to get into it should be provided in the house and a quantity of dust such as ordinary road dust or fine dirt placed in it to allow the hens a place to dust themselves. A dust bath aids the hens in keeping lice in check and therefore adds to their comfort. Usually the lice are not present on the birds in sufficient number to prove particularly harmful. However, it is better to keep the hens as free as possible from this pest, and if they are not able to keep them in check by dusting themselves, other measures can be undertaken. To rid the hens of lice, each one can be treated by placing small pinches of sodium fluorid, a material which can be obtained at most large drug stores, among the feathers next to the skin--one pinch on the head, one on the neck, two on the back, one on the breast, one below the vent, one at the base of the tail, one on either thigh, and one scattered on the underside of each wing when spread. Another method is to use a small quantity of blue ointment, a piece about as large as a pea on the skin 1 inch below the vent. If mercurial ointment is used instead of blue ointment, it should be diluted with an equal quantity of vaseline. Any of these methods will be found very effective in ridding the hens of lice and should be employed whenever the lice become troublesome. Two or three applications a year usually prove sufficient. Mites are more troublesome and more harmful than lice. They do not live upon the birds like the lice, but during the day hide in the cracks and crevices of the roosts and walls of the house, and at night they come out and get upon the fowls. They suck the hen’s blood, and if allowed to become plentiful--as they certainly will if not destroyed--will seriously affect her health and consequently her ability to lay eggs. They may be eradicated by a few thorough applications of kerosene or some of the coal-tar products which are sold for this purpose, or crude petroleum, to the interior of the poultry house. The commercial coal-tar products are more expensive but retain their killing power longer, and they may be cheapened by reducing with an equal part of kerosene. Crude petroleum will spray better if thinned with 1 part of kerosene to 4 parts of the crude oil. Both the crude petroleum and the coal-tar products often contain foreign particles, so should be strained before attempting to spray. One must be sure that the spray reaches all of the cracks and crevices, giving especial attention to the roosts, dropping-boards, and nests, and the treatment should be repeated two or three times at intervals of a week or 10 days.[3] [3] For further information on the subject of poultry lice and mites and their control the reader is referred to Farmers’ Bulletin 801, “Mites and Lice on Poultry,” by F. C. Bishopp and H. P. Wood, of the Bureau of Entomology. Copies of this bulletin may be obtained free on application to the Division of Publications, United States Department of Agriculture. HATCHING AND RAISING CHICKS Often it is inadvisable to attempt to renew the city poultry flock by hatching and rearing chicks or buying and rearing day-old chicks. Previous experience in the raising of chickens often increases the chances of success. However, the land available is usually small in area, and no attempt should be made to raise chicks unless a plot can be provided separate from that to which the hens have access and upon which there is grass, or a supply of green feed can be furnished. Where these conditions are not available, it is better to kill the hens as soon as they have outlived their usefulness and replace them by well-matured pullets in the fall. Where it is found desirable to hatch and rear a few chicks this can best be done with hens. Where a few day-old chicks are purchased to rear and no hens are available for the purpose, it is possible with little trouble and expense to construct a fireless brooder which will answer the purpose. Full directions for making such a brooder are given in Farmers’ Bulletin 624, page 10[4]. [4] Copies of these publications may be obtained free from the Division of Publications, U. S. Department of Agriculture. The hatching should be done early in the spring and should be completed if possible by the first of May. Chicks hatched before this time will have a good chance to mature and be in laying condition as pullets before the cold weather of fall sets in, and should in consequence be producers during the entire fall and winter. Early-hatched chicks are also easier to raise, as they live and thrive better than those which are still small when the hot weather begins. If it is desired to hatch and raise chicks, the reader is referred to Farmers’ Bulletin 585, “Natural and Artificial Incubation of Hens’ Eggs,” and 624, “Natural and Artificial Brooding of Chickens.”[5] [5] Copies of these publications may be obtained free from the Division of Publications, U. S. Department of Agriculture. CULLING THE HENS In any flock some hens will be found to be much better producers than others. Often there are a few hens which are such poor producers that they are unprofitable. Where the flock is comparatively small, the owner is often able to determine by observation which are the poor producing hens. Needless to say, these should be the ones to kill and eat as fowls are desired for the table. All hens molt in the fall and early winter. During this molting season, which usually takes about three months, the hens lay few or no eggs. It is advisable, if well-matured pullets can be purchased at a reasonable price, to kill and eat the hens as they begin to molt, replacing the flock with newly purchased pullets. The hens should not be killed, however, until they begin to molt and their comb begins to lose its size, color, and flexibility, for if these changes have not taken place the hens will probably still be laying and at a time of year when eggs are especially valuable. PRESERVING EGGS A small flock of hens, even five or six, may produce enough eggs during the greater part of the year to supply the needs of a medium-sized family. Where a larger flock is kept, there will be a time during the spring and early summer when more eggs are produced than are used. These surplus eggs can either be sold or, what is perhaps more desirable, preserved in the spring for home use during the fall and early winter, when eggs are high in price and much more difficult to obtain from the flock. The eggs to be preserved must be fresh. They should be put in the preserver on the day on which they are laid. The eggs should be clean, but it is better not to wash them. Eggs with dirty shells can be used for immediate consumption and the clean eggs preserved. Cracked eggs or those with thin or weak shells should never be used for preservation. Not only will the cracked egg itself spoil, but it will cause many of the other eggs packed in the same jar with it to spoil as well. One of the best methods of preserving eggs is by the use of waterglass. This material can be purchased by the quart from the druggist or poultry supply men. It is a pale yellow, odorless, sirupy liquid. It should be diluted in the proportion of 1 part of waterglass to 9 parts of water which has been boiled and allowed to cool. Earthenware crocks or jars are the best containers for the purpose, since they have a glazed surface and are not subject to chemical action from the solution. The crocks or cans should be scalded out, so that they will be perfectly clean, and allowed to cool before they are used. A container holding 6 gallons will accommodate 18 dozen eggs and will require about 22 pints of solution. Too large containers are not desirable, since they increase the liability of breaking some of the eggs. Half fill the container with the waterglass solution and place the eggs in it. Eggs can be added from day to day as they are obtained, until the container is filled. Be sure that the eggs are covered with about 2 inches of waterglass solution. Cover the container and place it in a cool place, where it will not have to be moved. It should be looked at from time to time to see that not enough of the water has evaporated so that the eggs are uncovered. If there seems to be any danger of this, sufficient cool boiled water should be added to keep them covered. Remove the eggs from the solution as desired for use and rinse them in clean, cold water. Before boiling such eggs prick a tiny hole in the large end of the shell with a needle, to keep them from cracking. As the eggs age the white becomes thinner and is harder to beat. The yolk membrane becomes more delicate, and it is correspondingly difficult to separate the whites from the yolks. Limewater is also satisfactory for preserving eggs and is slightly less expensive than waterglass. A solution is made by placing 2 or 3 pounds of unslaked lime in 5 gallons of water which has been boiled and allowed to cool, and allowing the mixture to stand until the lime settles and the liquid is clear. The eggs should be placed in a clean earthenware jar or other suitable vessel and covered to a depth of 2 inches with the liquid. Remove the eggs as desired, rinse in clean, cold water, and use immediately. PRACTICAL POINTERS Keep the hens confined to your own land. Don’t keep a male bird. Hens lay just as well without a male. Don’t overstock your land. Purchase well-matured pullets rather than hens. Don’t expect great success in hatching and raising chicks unless you have had some experience and have a grass plot separate from the yard for the hens. Build a cheap house or shelter. Make the house dry and free from drafts, but allow for ventilation. Fowls stand cold better than dampness. Keep house and yard clean. Provide roosts and dropping boards. Provide a nest for each four or five hens. Grow some green crop in the yard. Spade up the yard frequently. Feed table scraps and kitchen waste. Also feed grain once a day. Feed a dry mash. Keep hens free from lice and the house free from mites. Kill and eat the hens in the fall as they begin to molt and cease to lay. Preserve the surplus eggs produced during the spring and summer for use during the fall and winter when eggs are scarce and high in price. PUBLICATIONS OF THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE RELATING TO THE CARE OF POULTRY _=Available for Free Distribution by the Department.=_ Standard Varieties of Chickens. (Farmers’ Bulletin 51.) Poultry Management. (Farmers’ Bulletin 287.) Successful Dairy and Poultry Farm. (Farmers’ Bulletin 355.) Hints to Poultry Raisers. (Farmers’ Bulletin 528.) Important Poultry Diseases. (Farmers’ Bulletin 530.) Boys and Girls Poultry Clubs. (Farmers’ Bulletin 562.) Poultry House Construction. (Farmers’ Bulletin 574.) Natural and Artificial Incubation of Hens’ Eggs. (Farmers’ Bulletin 585.) Natural and Artificial Brooding of Chickens. (Farmers’ Bulletin 624.) Simple Trap Nest for Poultry. (Farmers’ Bulletin 682.) Squab Raising. (Farmers’ Bulletin 684.) Duck Raising. (Farmers’ Bulletin 697.) Goose Raising. (Farmers’ Bulletin 767.) Mites and Lice on Poultry. (Farmers’ Bulletin 801.) Standard Varieties of Chickens: 1. The American Class. (Farmers’ Bulletin 806.) How the Produce Dealer May Improve Quality of Poultry and Eggs. (Separate 596 from Year Book 1912.) Thanksgiving Turkey. (Separate 700 from Year Book 1916.) The Chicken Mite, Its Life History and Habits. (Department Bulletin 553.) FOR SALE BY THE SUPERINTENDENT OF DOCUMENTS, GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, WASHINGTON, D. C. Refrigeration of Dressed Poultry in Transit. (Department Bulletin 17.) Price, 10c. Commercial Fattening of Poultry. (Department Bulletin 21.) Price. 10c. Lessons on Poultry for Rural Schools. (Department Bulletin 464.) Price, 10c. Food Value and Uses of Poultry. (Department Bulletin 467.) Price, 5c. Eggs and Their Value as Food. (Department Bulletin 471.) Price, 5c. Improvement of Farm Eggs. (Bureau of Animal Industry Bulletin 141.) Price, 10c. PLAN No. 240. CAPONS AND CAPONIZING Contribution from the Bureau of Animal Industry, A. D. Melvin, Chief. Acknowledgment is due for this article to the United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. A capon is an unsexed or castrated male chicken. The true capon seldom crows. The capon is to the poultry dealer what the fat steer is to the beef packer--the source of the choicest food product of its kind. As a result of a contented disposition the capon develops more uniformly than the cockerel, and grows larger than the cockerel of the same age. Coupled with this better growth, the capon commands a better price per pound, and the demand continues good notwithstanding the fact that more and more are raised each year. The Plymouth Rocks, Light Brahmas, Cochins, Indian Games, Langshans, Wyandottes, Orpingtons, and various crosses of these, make the best capons. Cockerels should be caponized when they weigh from 1¹⁄₂ to 2¹⁄₂ pounds or when from 2 to 4 months old. The operation is more difficult than with most other domestic animals, but can be performed rapidly and with little danger after some practice. The making, feeding, and marketing of capons, with details concerning methods and results, are presented in this bulletin that caponizing may become a regular practice of the poultry raiser where conditions are favorable. It is impossible to say just how long the operation of caponizing has been performed. It seems quite certain, however, that the practice was familiar to the Chinese more than 2,000 years ago. Later it was practiced by the Greeks and Romans and, through medieval times, by the people of middle and southern Europe, until in recent times it has been introduced into America. At present capons are most universally known and appreciated in France, although within the last few years the business of producing them has advanced rapidly in this country. This industry is most important in that portion of the United States east of Philadelphia, though increasing numbers of capons are being raised in the Middle Western States. During the winter months capon is regularly quoted in the markets of the larger eastern cities. Massachusetts and New Jersey are the great centers for the growing of capons, while Boston, New York, and Philadelphia are the important markets. [Illustration: A Capon.] DESCRIPTION AND CHARACTERISTICS OF THE CAPON What is a capon? A capon is an altered or castrated male chicken, bearing the same relation to a cockerel that a steer does to a bull, a barrow to a boar, or a wether to a ram. As with other male animals so altered, the disposition of the capon differs materially from that of the cockerel. He no longer shows any disposition to fight, is much more quiet and sluggish, and is more docile and easy to keep within bounds. The true capon seldom crows. Along with this change in disposition there is a change in appearance. The comb and wattles cease growing, which causes the head to appear small. The hackle and saddle feathers develop beautifully. As a result of the more peaceful disposition of the capon he continues to grow and his body develops more uniformly and to a somewhat greater size than is the case with a cockerel of the same age. For a time the cockerel and the capon make about equal development, but as soon as the reproductive organs of the cockerel begin to develop the capon begins to outstrip him in growth. Also when finishing off the capon fattens more readily and economically. As they do not interfere with or worry one another, a large flock of capons may be kept together. Coupled with the better growth is the fact that the capon brings a better price per pound. Cockerels from 2 to 5 months old usually bring from 15 to 25 cents a pound; if held longer than this they become “staggy,” are classed as old cocks, and do not bring more than 6 to 15 cents a pound. Capon in season brings 20 to 35 cents and often more a pound. There are two reasons, then, why it is better to caponize surplus cockerels than to raise them for market as such: (1) There is an increase in weight and (2) the price per pound is materially increased. Yet in many localities where especially fine poultry is raised, while capons usually sell for a somewhat better price, the difference is not great. In fact, for the Boston market, many capons are picked clean and sold as “south shore roasters.” Hence it will be seen that the profit in capons must depend to a great extent upon local conditions. The demand for capons continues good, notwithstanding the fact that more and more are raised each year. SELECTION OF BREEDS In selecting the breed best suited for caponizing several factors must be taken into consideration. Large capons bring the best prices. Consequently the breed should be large. It does not pay to caponize small fowls. Yellow legs and skin, as in other classes of poultry, are most popular. The Plymouth Rocks, Light Brahmas, Cochins, Indian Games, Langshans, and Wyandottes are all recommended by different producers, as are also various crosses of these. The Orpington also makes fine capons, but the white legs and skin are somewhat of a disadvantage in this country. The Brahmas and Cochins possess good size. By some the Brahmas are claimed to be difficult to operate upon; by others this is denied. The Plymouth Rocks and Wyandottes are somewhat smaller, but sell readily and possess the advantage of yellow skin and legs. The Langshan is large and is easily operated upon. The Indian Game is probably most useful as a cross upon some one of the other breeds, thereby improving the breast meat without materially reducing the size of the fowl. In Massachusetts the Brahma was formerly the most popular breed for this purpose because of the demand for large birds for roasters. Later crosses between the Light Brahma and the Barred or White Plymouth Rock became quite popular, while at present the pure Barred and White Plymouth Rocks are perhaps most widely used. TIME TO CAPONIZE In so far as the effects of the operation and the rapidity and ease of healing are concerned, the time of year when the operation is performed is of little importance. The capons seem to recover and do well at any time. Certain other considerations, however, do influence the time. The age and size of the cockerel are very important. As soon as the cockerels weigh 1¹⁄₂ to 2¹⁄₂ pounds, or when 2 to 4 months old, they should be operated upon. The lower age and weight limits apply particularly to the American breeds, while the higher apply to the Asiatics. If smaller than this, their bodies do not give room enough to work handily. On the other hand, they should never be over 6 months old, as by this time the testicles have developed to a considerable extent, the spermatic arteries carry greater amounts of blood, and the danger of pricking these arteries and causing the fowl to bleed to death is greatly increased. The fact that capons are in greater demand and bring the best prices from the Christmas season until the end of March, and that it takes about 10 months to grow and finish them properly, makes it important to hatch the chicks in early spring so that they will be of proper size for caponizing in June, July, and August. These are by far the most popular months for the operation, though in some cases it is performed still later. [Illustration: Fig. 1.--Instruments used in Caponizing.] CAPONIZING INSTRUMENTS There are several sets of instruments for performing the operation. These differ principally in the type of instrument used in getting hold of and removing the testicle. One type is the cannula (fig. 1, _a_). This consists of a hollow tube, the lower end of which is compressed and closed except for two small holes through which to run the horse hair or wire comprising the other part of the instrument. This type requires two hands to operate. Another type is the twisting scoop (fig. 1, _b_). This is a spoon-like scoop slotted in the center and mounted upon a slender rod. It is designed to slip under the testicle, allowing the spermatic cord to pass through the slot. By twisting the cord in severed. This type has the advantage of requiring only one hand to operate, but is more liable to produce “slips” than the cannula. A third style of instrument (fig. 1, _i_) is also in the form of a spoon or scoop, but instead of being in one piece has two jaws regulated by a slide. The testicle is caught in the scoop with the spermatic cord between the jaws, and by tightening the jaws and gently moving the instrument the cord is severed and the testicle removed. Still another type, not now in common use, is the spoon forceps. With this the testicle is simply grasped with the forceps and detached by a twisting movement. Here one hand can be used also, but the liability of slips is rather greater than with the other methods. Figure 1, _k_, shows a type of forceps, consisting of two hinged arms, one of which terminates in a broad, flat surface, and the other in an end of similar shape from which the center has been removed, leaving only a narrow rim. These two ends are held closely pressed together by means of a rubber band passing across the handles. In use, the ends of the forceps are separated, the solid one slipped under the testicle and the rim then allowed to settle down over it. The cord is thus caught and the testicle can be removed. Careless or too rapid use of this instrument is likely to cause slips. Figure 1, _l_ and _m_, shows two additional types of testicle removers. The type shown in _l_ has a curved handle which brings the hand out of the line of vision, making it easier to see into the body cavity when using the instrument. A knife for making the incision into the body cavity is, of course, necessary. Almost any sharp-pointed, thin-bladed knife will answer the purpose well (see fig. 1, _c_). Some sort of spreader to spring apart the ribs far enough to allow the instruments to be inserted into the body must be used. A plain spring spreader, as shown in figure 1, _d_, or a sliding spreader (fig. 1, _e_), allowing the pressure to be gauged, will answer the purpose. A sharp-pointed hook (fig. 1, _h_). for tearing away the thin membranes, and a blunt probe, of which figure 1, _g_, is one type, for pushing aside the intestines, complete the necessary equipment. A pair of small tweezers or nippers (fig. 1, _f_) is also useful in removing any foreign matter from the body. [Illustration: Fig. 2.--Barred Plymouth Rock cockerel of suitable size to caponize.] THE OPERATION OF CAPONIZING [Illustration: Fig. 3.--Method of securing fowl in position for the operation on top of a barrel.] [Illustration: Fig. 4.--Feathers plucked away to make ready for incision.] Before beginning the operation two conditions are absolutely essential. If these are not favorable, do not attempt to operate. The first of these is that the intestines of the fowl should be completely empty, so that they will fall away and expose the testicle to view. This can be accomplished by shutting up the fowls and withholding all food and water for 24 to 36 hours before the operation. Withholding water tends to make the blood thicker and consequently to decrease the amount of bleeding. Thirty-six hours is better than 24, especially for a beginner. The second condition is a good, strong light, so that the organs of the fowl may be clearly and easily distinguished. Direct sunlight is best for this, and in consequence it is well to operate out of doors on a bright day. Some operators have substituted the physician’s head reflector and artificial light with good success. An ordinary incandescent electric bulb fastened to a gooseneck standard and provided with a reflector can be used to good advantage when caponizing indoors. It has been suggested that a probe consisting of a small electric bulb on the end of a slender rod and operated by small dry batteries, so that it can be introduced into the body cavity, could be manufactured and used with good success. METHODS OF HOLDING THE FOWL When ready to operate, catch the bird and pass a noose of strong string about the legs. Do the same with both wings close to the shoulder joints. To the other end of the string are attached weights of sufficient size to hold down and stretch out the bird when placed upon the head of a barrel or box of convenient height, which is to serve as operating table. These weights are allowed to hang on opposite sides of the barrel or box (see fig. 3). A table, if so desired, may be arranged by boring holes through its top at proper distances from each other, allowing the strings to pass through these, and hanging the weights underneath. Still other ways of holding the fowl in place have been devised, but these are unimportant so long as the fowl is held securely stretched out. [Illustration: Fig. 5.--The incision made. Before making the cut, the skin over the last two ribs is pulled down toward the thigh and held there while the incision is made. When the bird is released after the operation, the skin slips back into its natural position. The cut in the skin is then not directly over the incision in the body, with the result that the wound is closed and protected.] DETAILS OF THE OPERATION Having fastened the fowl, be sure that all the instruments are at hand. It is also well, though not necessary, to have ready some absorbent cotton and a dish of water to which have been added a few drops of carbolic acid or some other antiseptic. Having once started, carry the operation through as quickly as possible. Moisten and remove the feathers from a small area over the last two ribs just in front of the thigh (see fig. 4). With the left hand slide the skin and flesh down toward the thigh. Holding it thus, make the incision between the last two ribs (see fig. 5), holding the edge of the knife away from you as you stand back of the fowl. Lengthen the incision in each direction until it is 1 to 1¹⁄₂ inches long. Now insert the spreader into the incision, thus springing the ribs apart, as shown in figures 6 and 7. The intestines will now be visible, covered by a thin membrane called the omentum. Tear apart this membrane with the hook, and the upper testicle, yellow or sometimes rather dark colored and about the size and shape of an ordinary bean, should be visible close up against the backbone. By pushing aside the intestines this can easily be seen, and the lower one also, in a similar position on the other side of the backbone. Expert operators usually remove both testicles through one incision. This is a desirable practice, as it saves time and is not so hard on the bird. Inexperienced operators will usually find it well to attempt the removal of the upper or nearer testicle only and to make a second incision on the opposite side of the body for the removal of the other testicle. If both testicles are to be removed through the same incision, remove the lower first, as the bleeding from the upper might be sufficient to obscure the lower. Each testicle is enveloped in a thin membrane. This may be and probably is best removed with the testicle, though some operators tear it open and remove the testicle only. The delicate part of the operation is now at hand, owing to the close proximity of the spermatic artery, which runs just back of the testicle and to which the testicle is in part attached. If this is ruptured the fowl will bleed to death. The cannula, threaded with a coarse horsehair or fine wire, or one of the other forms of instrument previously described, now comes into use. If the cannula is used, allow the hair or wire protruding from the end to form a small loop just large enough to slip over the testicle. Work this over the testicle, being careful to inclose the entire organ. Now tighten up on the free ends of the hair or wire, being careful not to catch any part of the artery. If the spermatic cord does not separate, saw lightly with the hair or wire. When the testicle is free, remove it from the body. The method of removing the testicle is shown in figure 8. If only the upper testicle has been removed, turn the birds over and proceed in exactly the same manner upon the other side. [Illustration: Fig. 6.--Spreader in place. Tearing open the membranes.] After removing the testicle, if the bleeding is at all profuse it is well to remove a portion of the blood by introducing small pieces of absorbent cotton into the body by means of the hook or nippers, allowing them to become saturated and then removing them. Be sure to remove all blood clots, feathers, or foreign matters. After the testicles and all foreign matter are removed, take out the spreaders, thus allowing the skin to slip back over the incision. LOSSES DUE TO CAPONIZING Even experts are sure to kill some birds, but the loss is small, seldom exceeding 5 per cent where any considerable number are caponized, and usually not more than 2 or 3 per cent. With beginners, of course, the percentage is much larger, but with a little practice and care this is soon overcome. Any fowls which may be killed in this way are perfectly good to eat and are therefore not wasted. A great deal of practice is required to become expert enough to operate rapidly. Consequently it is quite common in localities where many capons are grown to hire experts to do the work. These men are able to caponize a fowl every two to five minutes, and charge from 3 to 6 cents a fowl for the service. It is most humane for the beginner to make his first trials upon dead fowls. SLIPS Many times, particularly with beginners, while the operation seems to be entirely satisfactory, the bird will turn out to be what is known as a “slip.” A “slip” is neither cockerel nor capon, but is between the two, possessing the mischievous disposition and the appearance of an ordinary cockerel, but, as a rule, being unable to reproduce. This condition is due to the fact that a small piece of the testicle is left in the body. This piece often grows to a considerable size. As the “slips” possess the same restless disposition as the cockerels, they grow and fatten little if any better, while they do not bring as good a price in the market as the capons. Consequently it is well to use every precaution in order to avoid “slips,” as they are unprofitable as compared with capons. With the greatest care, however, “slips” are more common than are deaths due to the operation. The percentage varies all the way from 50 per cent with beginners down to 2 or 3 per cent with experts. [Illustration: Fig. 7.--Spreader in place. The testicle can be observed lying between the jaws of the spreader.] CARE OF FOWLS AFTER THE OPERATION Upon being released from the operating table the capons are usually put in a closed yard where they can find shelter, food, and water and can be kept quiet. No roosts are provided, as the less flying and jumping they do the sooner will the wound heal. The capons seem to be very little inconvenienced by the operation, and water and soft feed mixed with sweet skim milk can be given immediately. Some feeders give this in unlimited quantity, while others feed more sparingly for a time. Some growers observe no precautions whatever, giving the birds full liberty immediately after the operation and allowing them to have any sort of feed. For a week or 10 days the newly made capons should be carefully observed to see whether they become “wind puffed.” This is a condition caused by air gathering under and puffing out the skin near the wound. When observed it can be readily relieved by pricking the skin with a needle or knife and pressing out the air. In about 10 days or 2 weeks the incision into the body should be entirely healed, and, although no special antiseptic methods are employed in the operation, blood poisoning or any other trouble seldom results. FEEDING CAPONS Capons are usually kept till they are about 10 months old. At this time the market is at its best and the birds have made their most profitable gains. The feeds used and the methods of feeding vary greatly, so much so, indeed, that it is futile to try to give specific directions. For several months after the operation a good growing ration and not a fattening ration is required. It may consist of whole grains, ground grains, or a combination of the two, as each feeder finds most profitable and best suited to his locality. As with other poultry, variety must be given for best results. Late in the fall, when the capons have no pasture, green feed, such as cut clover or vegetables, should be provided. A somewhat more fattening ration than that required for laying hens seems to give good results. [Illustration: Fig. 8.--Removing the testicle.] As capons are not usually marketed before Christmas or the first of January they have to be housed during the late fall and early winter. Because of their quiet disposition they stand crowding quite well and have been successfully housed with only 2 or 3 square feet of floor space to a fowl. Free range for capons is very desirable, as it promotes their continuous, rapid, and economical growth. During the last month or month and a half before marketing, the corn in the ration should be gradually increased until the fowls are on a full fattening ration. For the last two or three weeks it is desirable to shut them up and feed them in crates, for every possible ounce at this stage adds to the appearance and profit. KILLING AND DRESSING CAPONS FOR MARKET _Killing_ The capons selected for killing should be confined for 24 hours without feed or water to completely empty their crops. The usual method of killing is known as the sticking method. The fowl is hung up by the feet, the head held in the left hand, and the whole body stretched to full length. The mouth is forced open, and by means of a sharp, narrow-bladed knife held in the right hand the blood vessels at the back of the throat are severed with a single sweep. The knife is then turned and the point plunged through the roof of the mouth to a point just behind and between the eyes. The brain is here reached, and if properly stuck all feeling is then lost. Convulsions ensue, the muscles are relaxed, and the feathers come out easily. _Picking_ Capons should always be dry picked, as they look much better and some of the feathers should be left on. The feathers of the neck and head, the tail feathers, those a short way up the back, the feathers of the last two joints of the wing, and those of the leg, about one-third of the way from knee to hip joint, should be left on. These feathers, together with the head of the capon, serve to distinguish it from other classes of poultry on the market, and consequently should never be removed. In picking be careful not to tear the skin. If bad tears are made, sew them up. Capons scalded and picked bare bring very little, if any, better prices than other poultry in the same condition. [Illustration: Fig. 9.--The spreader removed and the weights taken off the wings. Notice how the skin slips back over the incision so as to close it.] _Drawing_ Most markets require capons to be undrawn and the head and feet left on. Care should be used to cleanse the head and feet of all signs of blood or filth. _Cooling and Packing_ After picking, the carcases are hung in a cool place until the animal heat has entirely left the body, when they are ready to be packed. Like other poultry they should be packed in boxes of convenient size, holding a dozen carcases, or in barrels. Every attention should be given to neatness and attractiveness, as this helps the sale and the price. During the time of year when most capons are marketed--January, February, and March--no ice is necessary, but if for any reason they are shipped in warm weather they should be packed in ice. PROFITS [Illustration: Fig. 10.--Capons dressed for market. These illustrations show appearance after picking, but do not show fowls in perfect condition of flesh.] It is extremely difficult to make any general statement concerning the profits yielded by capons. That they do yield a profit in practically all cases is undoubtedly true, but whether the profit is sufficient to give up to them the time and room they require is a question which must be settled by each man’s experience and by local conditions. Many poultrymen think that they can do better to turn off their surplus cockerels as broilers as long as the market holds up and rely upon caponizing only for later-hatched chicks. The house room thus saved they use for pullets or other laying stock, feeling that they make more money in this way. It is certain, however, that many poultrymen find capon raising profitable enough to induce them to continue in the business. On several farms in Massachusetts 500 to 1,000 capons are raised annually, and the writer knows of one farm on which in one season 5,000 cockerels were held for caponizing. Although the industry is growing rapidly year by year, the supply does not yet equal the demand. The best prices are commanded by capons produced near to the market, and consequently perfectly fresh. The markets of the West usually do not quote as good prices as the eastern ones; hence most of the western-grown capons are shipped East, in which case the express rates cut down the profit materially. On the whole, the profit is probably rather greater for eastern producers than for those of the North Central States. PLAN No. 241. LIQUID CARPET CLEANER One of the very best carpet cleaners ever placed on the market is that put up in liquid form by a man living in a western town of 5,000 people, where there was no steam cleaning establishment. He used the following formula: Solution soap, 120 ounces; ammonia water (10%), 60 ounces; gasoline, 120 ounces; chloroform, the cheap kind, 20 ounces; saltpetre, 10 ounces; commercial oil of wintergreen, or other perfume, sufficient to give an agreeable scent. (The solution soap named is made of cheap olive oil, 60 ounces; caustic potash, 12 ounces; wood alcohol and water, equal parts, to make 1,000 ounces.) In making the liquid cleaner, dissolve the saltpetre in the water, add the ammonia to the soap solution, then the chloroform, oil and gasoline, shaking well after adding each ingredient, then add this to the water. This makes a milky white compound that must be shaken well before using. Citronella or other cheap perfume may be used instead of the wintergreen, if desired. In making the soap solution, called for in the formula, put the oil into a suitable vessel, with half of the alcohol, then dissolve the potash in water, mix the two solutions, until it forms a nice soap, which can be determined by dropping a little of it in water. If it dissolves without forming oily drops, it is complete. Allow this to cool, add the rest of the alcohol and enough water to bring the measure up to 1,000 ounces. Then strain and filter. Use the cleaner by applying freely with a sponge, and scrub briskly with a stiff brush, then wash off with warm water, which removes all grease, dirt, etc. With a man to do the work, our friend went to the most prominent homes, as well as all the hotels in his town, and asked for the privilege of demonstrating his compound. This was granted in practically all cases, and he was given a large number of orders for cleaning carpets without removing them from the floor, at about half the price charged by regular cleaning establishments, yet which netted him a good profit after paying his man for the work. He also advertised it through the smaller towns, and secured sales for it which brought him a good income every year. PLAN No. 242. A WHITE SHOE DRESSING The only objection to white shoes is that they soil so easily, but those who use the following formula will find their troubles on that score are over. Precipitated chalk, 4 ounces; zinc oxide, 6 ounces; whiting, 8 ounces; pipe clay, 16 ounces; have all thoroughly dry and in fine powder, mix together very thoroughly and pass through a fine sieve. Now is where one of the tricks of the trade comes in. If the powder should have any yellowish tinge, as it most likely will, or does not seem to be just as dead white as it should be it may be brought up, by the judicious admixture of a very little bluing, just as is used in washing clothes and also is put in white granulated sugar for the same purpose. The blue must be in very fine powder and thoroughly mixed with the other powder, to give the proper results. Add it cautiously and be careful not to get too much. A good plan to work is, take some blue and rub it with three or four times its bulk of the powder in a mortar until thoroughly and evenly mixed, then use this powder for toning up your product. When this is done, mix a dram of powdered tragacanth and a dram of carbolic acid for each pound of the powder, with enough water to wet the whole thing into a stiff, putty-like mass. Fill this mass solidly into the boxes, and strike the upper edge. It will dry out, but that will not injure it at all. Directions for use: Brush the shoes well, then rub over with a soaped cloth, to remove all stains, etc. Wet a small sponge or cloth in water, rub it on the cake in the box until well loaded, then go over the shoes, evenly and rapidly. Set aside to dry, and with a dry cloth lightly remove spots in the dressing. PLAN No. 243. A TRAVELING TYPIST A young man who had been clerking in a men’s furnishing store for $10 a week got an idea one day that turned out to be the means of giving him a good-paying business. He noticed that there were many public stenographers located in the various office buildings of the city, and figuring that all their patrons had to come to them when wanting work done, why wouldn’t it be a good thing to call at the different stores and offices of these patrons and do their type-writing. He therefore bought a light but reliable typewriting machine, which could be carried easily from place to place, learned to operate it with accuracy and speed, and then began to work up a line of customers. He found them, too, lots of them, and every day he called at their places of business and wrote their letters. He was kept busy all the time, and from the very beginning of his enterprise he made from $25 a week up, yet did his work at the rate of 10 cents per letter. He seldom used short-hand but took the letters on his machine. PLAN No. 244. MAKING HENS LAY ALL THE YEAR This is something that all poultry raisers would give a good deal to know: On every alternate day, mix cayenne pepper with soft food, at the rate of one teaspoonful of pepper to each dozen hens. Take good care to see that each hen obtains her share. In winter give each hen a half ounce of fresh meat each day, and see that they have plenty of water, grain, gravel and lime. PLAN No. 245. HOW TO MAKE COTTAGE CHEESE ON THE FARM K. J. MATHESON AND F. R. CAMMACK, of the Dairy Division. Contribution from the Bureau of Animal Industry. Acknowledgment is due to the U. S. Dept. of Agriculture, Washington, D. C., for the following plan: Cottage cheese can be made on the farm or in the home with little labor and expense. It is a palatable, nourishing product that furnishes a means of utilizing skim milk to excellent advantage. The directions given in this plan are for manufacturing cottage cheese either for home use or for marketing on a small scale. [Illustration: Preparing Cottage Cheese for Market.] A DESIRABLE FOOD EASILY PREPARED Cottage cheese, a most palatable and nutritious product, is one of the few varieties of cheese which can be manufactured on a small scale. It furnishes a convenient and economical means for using skim milk as a human food, and supplies, more cheaply than meat, the protein or body-building part of the diet. In fact, pound for pound, it contains 25 per cent more protein than a medium-fat side of beef and costs about half as much. The haphazard methods used in the making of this product, together with the lack of simple and easily available directions, probably are responsible for the small quantities made and consumed in the farm home. Uncertainty of results and defects in the finished product also have been causes for discouragement to the beginner. It is hoped, however, that by following the directions given in this bulletin a better and more uniform product may be obtained. For making the cheese in small quantities for home use a very simple process and ordinary household equipment will suffice. But if it is desired to market the product and to insure good, uniform quality it will be necessary to follow somewhat more elaborate methods. Details sometimes must be modified according to conditions, and only experience will give proficiency. QUALITY AND ITS REQUISITES Cottage cheese is judged by its flavor and texture. A high-quality cheese should have a clean, mild, acid flavor and a texture smooth, free from lumps, and uniform or homogeneous throughout. The undesirable flavors commonly found are described as unclean, tasteless, too acid, and sometimes even bitter. Flavor can be controlled by the use of clean, sweet skim milk and a good “starter,” but texture depends largely upon careful manipulation during the making process. Good, clean skim milk, clean utensils, and careful attention to the details of making are essential to good quality in the product. _Good Skim Milk Necessary_ The first consideration in the production of good cottage cheese is the quality of the milk itself. Milk which is dirty or has undergone any abnormal fermentation is undesirable. The fresher the milk the more satisfactory it is for cheesemaking, because then it is possible to direct and control the souring. It is absolutely necessary to give the milk proper attention, both at the time of its production and in all its subsequent handling. The temperature at which it is kept from the time of production until made into cheese determines in a large measure the quality of the cheese. For best results milk should be kept cool, at 50° F. or lower, if possible, until it is to be made into cheese. _Cleanliness of Utensils_ The material and construction of all equipment used in handling milk and in the manufacture of cheese should be smooth and free from crevices, so as to allow easy and efficient cleaning. The most scrupulous care should be exercised in order to keep all utensils sweet and clean. For cleaning utensils the following method is advised: