BOOK III. THE GARDENER

_Lib. III. Cepuros_ CHAP. I. TO BOIL ALL VEGETABLES GREEN. CHAP. II. VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTED. CHAP. III. ASPARAGUS. CHAP. IV. PUMPKIN, SQUASH. CHAP. V. CITRUS FRUIT, CITRON. CHAP. VI. CUCUMBERS. CHAP. VII. MELON GOURD, MELON. CHAP. VIII. MALLOWS. CHAP. IX. YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS, CAULIFLOWER. CHAP. X. LEEKS. CHAP. XI. BEETS. CHAP. XII. POT HERBS. CHAP. XIII. TURNIPS, NAVEWS. CHAP. XIV. HORSERADISH AND RADISHES. CHAP. XV. SOFT CABBAGE. CHAP. XVI. FIELD HERBS. CHAP. XVII. NETTLES. CHAP. XVIII. ENDIVE AND LETTUCE. CHAP. XIX. CARDOONS. CHAP. XX. COW-PARSNIPS. CHAP. XXI. CARROTS AND PARSNIPS. I [66] VEGETABLES, POT HERBS _DE HOLERIBUS_ TO KEEP ALL VEGETABLES GREEN. _UT OMNE HOLUS SMARAGDINUM FIAT._ ALL VEGETABLES WILL REMAIN GREEN IF BOILED WITH COOKING SODA [1]. [1] _Nitrium._ Method still in use today, considered injurious to health if copper vessel is used, but the amount of copper actually absorbed by the vegetable is infinitesimal, imperceptible even by the taste. Copper, to be actually harmful would have to be present in such quantity as to make enjoyment impossible. II [67] VEGETABLE DINNER, EASILY DIGESTED _PULMENTARIUM AD VENTREM_ [1] ALL GREEN VEGETABLES ARE SUITED FOR THIS PURPOSE [2] VERY YOUNG [3] BEETS AND WELL MATURED LEEKS ARE PARBOILED; ARRANGE THEM IN A BAKING DISH, GRIND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ADD BROTH AND CONDENSED MUST, OR ANYTHING ELSE TO SWEETEN THEM A LITTLE, HEAT AND FINISH THEM ON A SLOW FIRE, AND SERVE. [1] V. _Ad ventrem_, "for the belly," simple home laxative. [2] V. This sentence in Torinus only. Possibly a contraction of the foregoing formula, No. 66. [3] V. _minutas_, "small," i.e., young. [68] A SIMILAR DISH _SIMILITER_ PARBOIL POLYPODY [1] ROOT SO AS TO SOFTEN THEM, CUT THEM INTO SMALL PIECES, SEASON WITH GROUND PEPPER AND CUMIN, ARRANGE IN A BAKING DISH, FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE [2]. [1] V. Roots of the fern herb. [2] V. Although these instructions for vegetable dinners are rather vague, they resemble primitive _chartreuses_--fancy vegetable dishes developed by the Carthusian monks to whom flesh eating was forbidden. Elsewhere in Apicius we shall find the _chartreuse_ developed to a remarkable degree. [69] ANOTHER LAXATIVE _ALITER AD VENTREM_ [1] SCRUB AND WASH BUNDLES OF BEETS BY RUBBING THEM WITH A LITTLE SODA [2]. TIE THEM IN INDIVIDUAL BUNDLES, PUT INTO WATER TO BE COOKED, WHEN DONE, SEASON WITH REDUCED MUST OR RAISIN WINE AND CUMIN, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, ADD A LITTLE OIL, AND WHEN HOT, CRUSH POLYPODY AND NUTS WITH BROTH, ADD THIS TO THE RED-HOT PAN, INCORPORATING IT WITH THE BEETS, TAKE OFF THE FIRE QUICKLY AND SERVE. [1] This formula wanting in Tor. [2] V. Ingenious method to skin tender root vegetables, still in vogue today. We remove the skin of tender young root vegetables, carrots, beets, etc., by placing them in a towel, sprinkling them with rock salt and shaking them energetically. The modern power vegetable peeler is really built on the same principle, only instead of salt (which soon melts) carborundum or rough concrete surfaces are used, against which surfaces the vegetables are hurled by the rotary motion; often enough, too much of the skin is removed, however. [70] BEETS À LA VARRO _BETACEOS VARRONIS_ [1] VARRO BEETS, THAT IS, BLACK ONES [2] OF WHICH THE ROOTS MUST BE CLEANED WELL, COOK THEM WITH MEAD AND A LITTLE SALT AND OIL; BOIL THEM DOWN IN THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THE ROOTS ARE SATURATED THEREBY; THE LIQUID ITSELF IS GOOD DRINKING. IT IS ALSO NICE TO COOK A CHICKEN IN WITH THEM. [1] G.-V. _Betacios_; Tor. _B. Varrones_. Probably named for Varro, the writer on agriculture. [2] Roots on the order of parsnips, salsify, oysterplant. [71] ANOTHER LAXATIVE _ALITER AD VENTREM_ ANOTHER VEGETABLE DISH, PROMOTING GOOD HEALTH; WASH CELERY, GREENS AND ROOTS, AND DRY IT IN THE SUN: THEN ALSO COOK THE TENDER PART AND HEAD OF LEEKS IN A NEW [1] POT, ALLOWING THE WATER TO BOIL DOWN ONE THIRD OF ITS VOLUME. THEREUPON GRIND PEPPER WITH BROTH AND HONEY IN EQUAL AMOUNTS PROPERLY MEASURED, MIX IT IN THE MORTAR WITH THE WATER OF THE COOKED CELERY, STRAIN, BOIL AGAIN AND USE IT TO MASK THE [cooked] CELERY WITH. IF DESIRED, ADD [the sliced root of the] CELERY TO IT [2]. [1] V. "new," i.e., cook leeks in a separate sauce pan; NOT together with the celery, which, as the original takes for granted, must be cooked also. [2] V. We would leave the honey out, make a cream sauce from the stock, or, adding bouillon, tie same with a little flour and butter, and would call the dish Stewed Celery and Leeks. The ancient method is entirely rational because the mineral salts of the vegetables are preserved and utilized (invariably observed by Apicius) which today are often wasted by inexperienced cooks who discard these precious elements with the water in which vegetables are boiled. III [72] ASPARAGUS _ASPARAGOS_ ASPARAGUS [Tor. IN ORDER TO HAVE IT MOST AGREEABLE TO THE PALATE] MUST BE [peeled, washed and] DRIED [1] AND IMMERSED IN BOILING WATER BACKWARDS [2] [3]. [1] V. Must be dried before boiling because the cold water clinging to the stalks is likely to chill the boiling water too much in which the asparagus is to be cooked. Apicius here reveals himself as the consummate cook who is familiar with the finest detail of physical and chemical changes which food undergoes at varying temperatures. The various editions all agree: _asparagos siccabis_; Schuch, however, says: "For the insane _siccabis_ I substitute _siciabis_, _isiciabis_, prepare with _sicio_ [?] and cook." He even goes on to interpret it _cucabis_ from the Greek _kouki_, cocoanut milk, and infers that the asparagus was first cooked in cocoanut milk and then put back into water, a method we are tempted to pronounce insane. [2] V. Backwards! G.-V. _rursum in calidam_; Tac. _rursus in aquam calidam_; Tor. _ac rursus ..._ This word has caused us some reflection, but the ensuing discovery made it worth while. _Rursus_ has escaped the attention of the other commentators. In this case _rursus_ means backwards, being a contraction from _revorsum_, h.e. _reversum_. The word is important enough to be observed. Apicius evidently has the right way of cooking the fine asparagus. The stalks, after being peeled and washed must be bunched together and tied according to sizes, and the bunches must be set into the boiling water "backwards," that is, they must stand upright with the heads protruding from the water. The heads will be made tender above the water line by rising steam and will be done simultaneously with the harder parts of the stalks. We admit, we have never seen a modern cook observe this method. They usually boil the tender heads to death while the lower stalks are still hard. Though this formula is incomplete (it fails to state the sauce to be served, also that the asparagus must be peeled and bunched, that the water must contain salt, etc.) it is one of the neatest formulæ in Apicius. It is amusing to note how the author herein unconsciously reveals what a poor litérateur but what a fine cook he is. This is characteristic of most good practitioners. One may perfectly master the vast subject of cookery, yet one may not be able to give a definition of even a single term, let alone the ability to exactly describe one of the many processes of cookery. Real poets often are in the same predicament; none of them ever explained the art satisfactorily. [3] G.-V. add to the formula _callosiores reddes_--give back [eliminate] the harder ones. This sentence belongs to the next article. And Torinus, similar to Humelbergius, renders this sentence _ut reddas ad gustum calliores_--to render the harder ones palatable--the squash and pumpkin namely--and we are inclined to agree with him. IV [73] PUMPKIN, SQUASH _CUCURBITAS_ TO HAVE THE HARDER ONES PALATABLE, DO THIS: [1] [Cut the fruit into pieces, boil and] SQUEEZE THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED FRUIT AND ARRANGE [the pieces] IN A BAKING DISH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CUMIN AND SILPHIUM, THAT IS, A VERY LITTLE OF THE LASER ROOT AND A LITTLE RUE, SEASON THIS WITH STOCK, MEASURE A LITTLE VINEGAR AND MIX IN A LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, SO THAT IT CAN BE STRAINED [2] AND POUR THIS LIQUID OVER THE FRUIT IN THE BAKING DISH; LET IT BOIL THREE TIMES, RETIRE FROM THE FIRE AND SPRINKLE WITH VERY LITTLE GROUND PEPPER. [1] Cf. note 3 to No. 72. [2] List. _Ut coloretur_--to give it color; Tor. _ut ius coletur_--from _colo_--to strain, to filter. Cf. also note 2 to No. 55. [74] PUMPKIN LIKE DASHEENS _ALITER CUCURBITAS IURE COLOCASIORUM_ [1] BOIL THE PUMPKIN IN WATER LIKE COLOCASIA; GRIND PEPPER, CUMIN AND RUE, ADD VINEGAR AND MEASURE OUT THE BROTH IN A SAUCEPAN. THE PUMPKIN PIECES [nicely cut] WATER PRESSED OUT [are arranged] IN A SAUCEPAN WITH THE BROTH AND ARE FINISHED ON THE FIRE WHILE THE JUICE IS BEING TIED WITH A LITTLE ROUX. BEFORE SERVING SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2]. [1] V. _Colocasia Antiquorum_ belonging to the dasheen or taro family, a valuable tuber, again mentioned in No. 172, 216, 244 and 322. Cf. various notes, principally that to No. 322. Also see U. S. Dept. of Agr. Farmer's Bulletin No. 1396, p. 2. This is a "new" and commercially and gastronomically important root vegetable, the flavor reminding of a combination of chestnuts and potatoes, popularly known as "Chinese potatoes" which has been recently introduced by the U. S. Government from the West Indies where it received the name, Dasheen, derived from _de Chine_--from China. [2] Tor. continues without interruption into the next formula. [75] PUMPKIN, ALEXANDRINE STYLE _ALITER CUCURBITAS MORE ALEXANDRINO_ PRESS THE WATER OUT OF THE BOILED PUMPKIN, PLACE IN A BAKING DISH, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, GROUND PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, GREEN MINT AND A LITTLE LASER ROOT; SEASON WITH VINEGAR. NOW ADD DATE WINE AND PIGNOLIA NUTS GROUND WITH HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH, MEASURE OUT CONDENSED WINE AND OIL, POUR THIS OVER THE PUMPKIN AND FINISH IN THIS LIQUOR AND SERVE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER BEFORE SERVING. [76] BOILED PUMPKIN _ALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS_ [Boiled Pumpkin] STEWED IN BROTH WITH PURE OIL. [77] FRIED PUMPKIN _ALITER CUCURBITAS FRICTAS_ [Fried pumpkin served with] SIMPLE WINE SAUCE AND PEPPER. [78] ANOTHER WAY, BOILED AND FRIED _ALITER CUCURBITAS ELIXATAS ET FRICTAS_ BOILED PUMPKIN FRIED IS PLACED IN A BAKING PAN. SEASON WITH CUMIN WINE, ADD A LITTLE OIL; FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE. [79] ANOTHER WAY, MASHED _CUCURBITAS FRICTAS TRITAS_ FRIED [1] PUMPKIN, SEASONED WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, ONION, WINE BROTH AND OIL: STEW THE PUMPKIN [in this] IN A BAKING DISH, TIE THE LIQUID WITH ROUX [mash] AND SERVE IN THE DISH. [1] V. Baking the fruit reduces the water contents, renders the purée more substantial. G.-V. _Tritas_--mashed. Tor. connects _tritas_ up with pepper, hence it is doubtful whether this dish of pumpkin is mashed pumpkin. [80] PUMPKIN AND CHICKEN _CUCURBITAS CUM GALLINA_ [Stew the pumpkin with a hen, garnish with] HARD-SKINNED PEACHES, TRUFFLES; PEPPER, CARRAWAY, AND CUMIN, SILPHIUM AND GREEN HERBS, SUCH AS MINT, CELERY, CORIANDER, PENNYROYAL, CRESS, WINE [1] OIL AND VINEGAR. [1] Tor. _Vinum vel oleum_; List. _vinum_, _mel_, _oleum_. V [81] CITRON _CITRIUM_ [1] FOR THE PREPARATION OF CITRON FRUIT WE TAKE SILER [2] FROM THE MOUNTAINS, SILPHIUM, DRY MINT, VINEGAR AND BROTH. [1] List. _Citrini_--a lemon or cucumber squash. [2] Tor. _Silerem_; List. _sil_, which is hartwort, a kind of cumin or mountain fennel. VI [82] CUCUMBERS _CUCUMERES_ [Stew the] PEELED CUCUMBERS EITHER IN BROTH [1] OR IN A WINE SAUCE; [and] YOU WILL FIND THEM TO BE TENDER AND NOT CAUSING INDIGESTION. [1] Usually cucumbers are parboiled in water and then finished in broth; most often after being parboiled they are stuffed with forcemeat and then finished in broth. [83] CUCUMBERS ANOTHER WAY _ALITER CUCUMERES RASOS_ [Peeled cucumbers are] STEWED WITH BOILED BRAINS, CUMIN AND A LITTLE HONEY. ADD SOME CELERY SEED, STOCK AND OIL, BIND THE GRAVY WITH EGGS [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] Tor. _bis obligabis_--tie twice--for which there is no reason, except in case the sauce should curdle. List. _oleo elixabis_--fry in oil--obviously wrong, as the materials for this stew are already cooked. Sch. _ovis obligabis_--bind with eggs--which is the thing to do in this case. [84] ANOTHER CUCUMBER RECIPE _ALITER CUCUMERES_ CUCUMBERS, PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM. Sounds like a fancy dressing for raw sliced cucumbers, though there are no directions to this effect. VII [85] MELON-GOURD AND MELONS _PEPONES ET MELONES_ PEPPER, PENNYROYAL, HONEY OR CONDENSED MUST, BROTH AND VINEGAR; ONCE IN A WHILE ONE ADDS SILPHIUM. Same as 84; which confirms above theory. It is quite possible that melons were eaten raw with this fancy dressing. Many people enjoy melons with pepper and salt, or, in salad form with oil and vinegar. Gourds, however, to be palatable, must be boiled and served either hot or cold with this dressing. VIII [86] MALLOWS _MALVAS_ THE SMALLER MALLOWS [are prepared] WITH GARUM [1], STOCK [2] OIL AND VINEGAR; THE LARGER MALLOWS [prepare] WITH A WINE SAUCE, PEPPER AND STOCK, [adding] CONDENSED WINE OR RAISIN WINE. [1] Tor. _Garum_; List. _Oenogarum_. [2] _Liquamen_--depending upon the mode of serving the mallows, hot or cold. IX [87] YOUNG CABBAGE, SPROUTS [1] _CYMAS ET CAULICULOS_ [2] [Boil the] SPROUTS; [1] [season with] CUMIN [3], SALT, WINE AND OIL; IF YOU LIKE [add] PEPPER, LOVAGE, MINT, RUE, CORIANDER; THE TENDER LEAVES OF THE STALKS [stew] IN BROTH; WINE AND OIL BE THE SEASONING. [1] Including, perhaps, cauliflower and broccoli. [2] List. _Cimæ & Coliculi. Nunc crudi cum condimentis nunc elixati inferentur._ Served sometimes raw with dressing, sometimes boiled. [3] Cumin or carraway seed is still used today in the preparation of the delicious "Bavarian" cabbage which also includes wine and other spices. [88] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ CUT THE STALKS IN HALF AND BOIL THEM. THE LEAVES ARE MASHED AND SEASONED WITH CORIANDER, ONION, CUMIN, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, OR CONDENSED WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. Very sensible way of using cabbage stalks that are usually thrown away. Note the almost scientific procedure: the stalks are separated from the leaves, split to facilitate cooking; they are cooked separately because they require more time than the tender greens. Our present method appears barbarous in comparison. We quarter the cabbage head, and either boil it or steam it. As a result either the tender leaves are cooked to death or the stems are still hard. The overcooked parts are not palatable, the underdone ones indigestible. Such being the case, our boiled cabbage is a complete loss, unless prepared the Apician way. [89] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE COOKED [1] STALKS ARE PLACED IN A [baking] DISH; MOISTEN WITH STOCK AND PURE OIL, SEASON WITH CUMIN, SPRINKLE [2] WITH PEPPER, LEEKS, CUMIN, AND GREEN CORIANDER [all] CHOPPED UP. [1] Tor. _Coliculi assati_--_sauté_, fried; (Remember: _Choux de Bruxelles sauté_) List. _elixati_--boiled. G.-V. _Cauliculi elixati_. [2] Tor. _Superasperges_; G.-V. _piper asperges_. Sounds like a salad of cooked cabbage. The original leaves us in doubt as to the temperature of the dish. [90] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE VEGETABLE, SEASONED AND PREPARED IN THE ABOVE WAY IS STEWED WITH PARBOILED LEEKS. [91] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ TO THE SPROUTS OR STALKS, SEASONED AND PREPARED AS ABOVE, ARE ADDED GREEN OLIVES WHICH ARE HEATED LIKEWISE. [92] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ PREPARE THE SPROUTS IN THE ABOVE WAY, COVER THEM WITH BOILED SPELT AND PINE NUTS [1] AND SPRINKLE [2] WITH RAISINS. [1] The nuts should not astonish us. The French today have a delicious dish, _Choux de Bruxelles aux Marrons_--Brussels Sprouts with Chestnuts. Sprouts and chestnuts are, of course, cooked separately; the lightly boiled sprouts are _sauté_ in butter; the chestnuts parboiled, peeled, and finished in stock with a little sugar or syrup, tossed in butter and served in the center of the sprouts. The Apician formula with cereal and raisins added is too exotic to suit our modern taste, but without a question is a nutritious dish and complete from a dietetic point of view. [2] Tor. _Superasperges_; G.-V. _piper asperges_. X [93] LEEKS _PORROS_ WELL MATURED LEEKS [1] ARE BOILED WITH A PINCH OF SALT [2] IN [combined] WATER AND OIL [3]. THEY ARE THEN STEWED IN OIL AND IN THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, AND SERVED. [1] Tor. _Poros bene maturos_; G.-V. _maturos fieri_. [2] One of the rare instances where Apicius mentions salt in cookery, i.e., salt in a dry form. _Pugnum salis_--a fist of salt--he prescribes here. Usually it is _liquamen_--broth, brine--he uses. [3] Tor. is correct in finishing the sentence here. G.-V. continue _et eximes._, which is the opening of the next sentence, and it makes a difference in the formula. [94] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LEEKS _ALITER PORROS_ WRAP THE LEEKS WELL IN CABBAGE LEAVES, HAVING FIRST COOKED THEM AS DIRECTED ABOVE [1] AND THEN FINISH THEM IN THE ABOVE WAY. [1] Tor. _in primis_--first; List., G.-V. _in prunis_--hot embers. [95] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER PORROS_ COOK THE LEEKS WITH [laurel] BERRIES [1], [and otherwise treat them] AND SERVE AS ABOVE. [1] Tor. _Porros in bacca coctos_; List. _in cacabo_--cooked in a casserole; Sch. _bafa embama_--steeped, marinated (in oil); G.-V. _in baca coctos_. Another way to read this: _baca et fabæ_--with beans--is quite within reason. The following formula, 96, is perhaps only a variant of the above. Brandt: with olives, referring to No. 91 as a precedent. [96] LEEKS AND BEANS _ALITER PORROS_ AFTER HAVING BOILED THE LEEKS IN WATER, [green string] BEANS WHICH HAVE NOT YET BEEN PREPARED OTHERWISE, MAY BE BOILED [in the leek water] [1] PRINCIPALLY ON ACCOUNT OF THE GOOD TASTE THEY WILL ACQUIRE; AND MAY THEN BE SERVED WITH THE LEEKS. [1] Apicius needed no modern science of nutrition to remind him of the value of the mineral salts in vegetables. XI [97] BEETS _BETAS_ TO MAKE A DISH OF BEETS THAT WILL APPEAL TO YOUR TASTE [1] SLICE [the beets, [2] with] LEEKS AND CRUSH CORIANDER AND CUMIN; ADD RAISIN WINE [3], BOIL ALL DOWN TO PERFECTION: BIND IT, SERVE [the beets] SEPARATE FROM THE BROTH, WITH OIL AND VINEGAR. [1] Sentence in Tor.; wanting in List. _et al._ [2] List. No mention of beets is made in this formula; therefore, it may belong to the foregoing leek recipes. V. This is not so. Here the noun is made subject to the first verb, as is practiced frequently. Moreover, the mode of preparation fits beets nicely, except for the flour to which we object in note 3, below. To cook beets with leeks, spices and wine and serve them (cold) with oil and vinegar is indeed a method that cannot be improved upon. [3] Tac., Tor., List., G.-V. _uvam passam_, _Farinam_--raisins and flour--for which there is no reason. Sch. _varianam_--raisin wine of the Varianian variety; Bas. _Phariam_. V. inclined to agree with Sch. and Bas. [98] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER BETAS ELIXAS_ COOK THE BEETS WITH MUSTARD [seed] AND SERVE THEM WELL PICKLED IN A LITTLE OIL AND VINEGAR. V. Add bay leaves, cloves, pepper grains, sliced onion and a little sugar, and you have our modern pickled beets. XII [99] GREEN VEGETABLES, POT HERBS _OLISERA_ [1] [The greens] TIED IN HANDY BUNDLES, COOKED AND SERVED WITH PURE OIL; ALSO PROPER WITH FRIED FISH. [1] Tac. _Olisera_; Tor. _Olifera_ (_sev mauis olyra_) Tor. is mistaken. Hum., List. _Olisatra_; (old Ms. note in our Hum. copy: "_Alessandrina uulgò_") from _olusatrum_--_olus_--pot herbs, cabbage, turnips. G.-V. _Holisera_, from _holus_, i.e. _olus_ and from _olitor_ one who raises pot herbs. XIII [100] TURNIPS OR NAVEWS _RAPAS SIVE NAPOS_ [Turnips are] COOKED [soft, the water is] SQUEEZED [out; then] CRUSH A GOOD AMOUNT OF CUMIN AND A LITTLE RUE, ADD PARTHICAN [1] LASER OR [2] VINEGAR, STOCK, CONDENSED WINE AND OIL [3] HEAT MODERATELY AND SERVE. [1] i.e. Persian laser; List. _laser, Parthicum_; (the comma makes a difference!) Sch. _particum_--a part. [2] Tac., Tor. _vel acetum_; List. G.-V. _mel, acetum_. Another comma; and "honey" instead of "or." V. We doubt this: the vinegar is an alternative, for it takes the place of the more expensive Persian _laser_ (which was an essence of the _laser_ root, often diluted with vinegar). [3] List., G.-V. _oleum modice_: _fervere_; Tor. _& oleum, quæ modice fervere facias_. Again note Lister's punctuation here and in the foregoing notes. The misplaced commas and colons raise havoc with the formulæ everywhere. Torinus, who in his preface complains that his authority has no punctuation whatsoever and thereby indicates that it must have been a very ancient copy, (at least prior to the 1503 Tac. ed.) is generally not far from the mark. It is also doubtful that the variants are by him, as is claimed by List. In this instance, indeed, Tor. is again correct. [101] ANOTHER WAY [1] _ALITER RAPAS SIVE NAPOS_ [The turnips are] BOILED, SERVED DRESSED WITH OIL, TO WHICH, IF DESIRED, YOU MAY ADD VINEGAR [2]. [1] Tor. _ad delitias_--delightful. [2] V. Presumably served cold, as a salad; cf. No. 122. XIV [102] RADISHES _RAPHANOS_ PEPPER THE RADISHES WELL; OR, EQUALLY WELL: GRATE IT WITH PEPPER AND BRINE. Sch., G.-V. _Rafanos_; _Raphanos agria_,--a kind of horseradish; Plinius: h.e. _raphanus sylvestris_. XV [103] SOFT CABBAGE _OLUS MOLLE_ THE CABBAGE IS COOKED WITH POT HERBS IN SODA WATER; PRESS [the water out] CHOP IT VERY FINE: [now] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY SATURY WITH DRY ONIONS, ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE. [104] ANOTHER MASHED GREEN VEGETABLE _ALTER OLUS MOLLE_ [_EX APIO_] COOK CELERY IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [water out] CHOP FINE. IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONION [and mix with] WINE AND STOCK, ADDING SOME OIL. COOK THIS IN THE BOILER [1] AND MIX THE CELERY WITH THIS PREPARATION. [1] _in pultario_. The _pultarius_ is a pot in which cereals were boiled; from _puls_--porridge, pap. [105] ANOTHER MASHED VEGETABLE _ALITER OLUS MOLLE_ [_EX LACTUCIS_] COOK THE LETTUCE LEAVES WITH ONION IN SODA WATER, SQUEEZE [the water out] CHOP VERY FINE; IN THE MORTAR CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, ONION; ADD STOCK, OIL AND WINE. [106] TO PREVENT MASHED VEGETABLES FROM TURNING _OLUS MOLLE NE ARESCAT_ [1] IT WILL BE REQUIRED ABOVE ALL TO CLEAN THE VEGETABLES WELL, TO CUT OFF ALL DECAYED PARTS AND TO COVER [the cooked vegetables] WITH WORMWOOD WATER. [1] Tor. _ne ... exarescat_, the difference in the meaning is immaterial. XVI [107] FIELD HERBS _HERBÆ RUSTICÆ_ FIELD AND FOREST [1] HERBS ARE PREPARED [2] [either raw] WITH STOCK [3] OIL AND VINEGAR [as a salad, [4]] OR AS A COOKED DISH [5] BY ADDING PEPPER, CUMIN AND MASTICH BERRIES. [1] Tor. _ac sylvestres_; V. German, _Feldsalat_. [2] Tor. _parantur_; wanting in other editions. [3] _Liquamine_, here interpreted as brine. [4] Tac., Sch., _et al._ _a manu_; Tor. _vel manu_--because eaten with the hand. [5] Tor. _vel in patina_. XVII [108] NETTLES _URTICÆ_ THE FEMALE NETTLES, WHEN THE SUN IS IN THE POSITION OF THE ARIES, IS SUPPOSED TO RENDER VALUABLE SERVICES AGAINST AILMENTS OF VARIOUS KINDS [1]. [1] Tac., List., Sch., _et al._ _adversus ægritudinem_. Barthius: _Quam ægritudinem?_ etc., etc. Tor. _plurifarias_! Reinsenius: _ad arcendum morbum_, etc., etc. Hum. _scilicet quamcunque hoc est ..._ etc., etc., etc. G.-V. _si voles_. V. This innocent little superstition about the curative qualities of the female nettle causes the savants to engage in various speculations. Nettles are occasionally eaten as vegetables on the Continent. XVIII [109] ENDIVES AND LETTUCE _INTUBA ET LACTUCÆ_ ENDIVES [are dressed] WITH BRINE, A LITTLE OIL AND CHOPPED ONION, INSTEAD OF THE REAL LETTUCE [1] IN WINTER TIME THE ENDIVES ARE TAKEN OUT OF THE PICKLE [2] [and are dressed] WITH HONEY OR VINEGAR. [1] Hum. _pro lactucis uere_; Tor. _p. l. accipint_; G.-V. _p. l. vero_ (separated by period)--all indicating that endives are a substitute for lettuce when this is not available. [2] Cf. {Rx} No. 27, also Nos. 22 and 23. [110] LETTUCE SALAD, FIELD SALAD _AGRESTES LACTUCÆ_ [1] [Dress it] WITH VINEGAR DRESSING AND A LITTLE BRINE STOCK; WHICH HELPS DIGESTION AND IS TAKEN TO COUNTERACT INFLATION [2]. [1] Tor. _sic_; Hum. _agri l._; Tac. _id._; Sch. and G.-V. have _acri_ as an adjective to vinegar, the last word in the preceding formula. [2] List. and Hum. continuing: "And this salad will not hurt you"; but Tor., Sch. and G.-V. use this as a heading for the following formula. [111] A HARMLESS SALAD _NE LACTUCÆ LÆDANT_ [And in order that the lettuce may not hurt you take (with it or after it) the following preparation] [1] 2 OUNCES OF GINGER, 1 OUNCE OF GREEN RUE, 1 OUNCE OF MEATY DATES, 12 SCRUPLES OF GROUND PEPPER, 1 OUNCE OF GOOD HONEY, AND 8 OUNCES OF EITHER ÆTHIOPIAN OR SYRIAN CUMIN. MAKE AN INFUSION OF THIS IN VINEGAR, THE CUMIN CRUSHED, AND STRAIN. OF THIS LIQUOR USE A SMALL SPOONFUL MIX IT WITH STOCK AND A LITTLE VINEGAR: YOU MAY TAKE A SMALL SPOONFUL AFTER THE MEAL [2]. [1] Tac. and Tor. _Ne lactucæ lædant_ [take it] _cum zingiberis uncijs duabus_, etc. Hum., List., G.-V. _cumini unc. II._ They and Sch. read the _cum_ of Tac. and Tor. for _cumini_, overlooking the fact that the recipe later calls for Aethopian or Syrian cumin as well. This shifts the weights of the various ingredients from the one to the other, completely upsetting the sense of the formula. [2] Goll. ignores this passage completely. V. This is another of the medical formulæ that have suffered much by experimentation and interpretation through the ages. It seems to be an aromatic vinegar for a salad dressing, and, as such, a very interesting article, reminding of our present tarragon, etc., vinegars. To be used judiciously in salads. Again, as might be expected, the medicinal character of the formula inspires the medieval doctors to profound meditation and lively debate. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 34 and 108. XIX [112] CARDOONS _CARDUI_ CARDOONS [are eaten with a dressing of] BRINY BROTH, OIL, AND CHOPPED [hard] EGGS. V. Precisely as we do today: French dressing and hard boiled eggs. We do not forget pepper, of course. Perhaps the ancient "briny broth" contained enough of this and of other ingredients, such as fine condiments and spices to make the dressing perfect. [113] ANOTHER [Dressing for] CARDOONS _ALITER CARDUOS_ RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL--ALL GREEN--FINELY CRUSHED; ADD PEPPER, LOVAGE, AND [1] BRINE AND OIL [2]. [1] Tac. and Tor. _vel._; List., Sch., G.-V. _mel_--honey--which would spoil this fine _vinaigrette_ or cold _fines herbes dressing_. However, even nowadays, sugar is quite frequently added to salad dressings. [2] Gollmer claims that this dressing is served with cooked cardoons, the recipe for which follows below. This is wanting in Tor. [114] BOILED CARDOONS _ALITER CARDUOS ELIXOS_ [Are served with] PEPPER, CUMIN, BROTH AND OIL. XX [115] (COW-) PARSNIPS [?] _SPONDYLI VEL FONDULI_ [1] COW-PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and eaten] WITH A SIMPLE WINE SAUCE. [1] Tac. _Spondili uel fonduli_ and _Sphon ..._; Tor. as above; Hum. _Spongioli uel funguli_; List., _id._; Sch. _Sfondili uel funguli_; G.-V. _Sphondyli uel funduli_. Cf. note to Nos. 46, 121, 122. [116] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ BOIL THE PARSNIPS IN SALT WATER [and season them] WITH PURE OIL [1], CHOPPED GREEN CORIANDER AND WHOLE PEPPER. [1] Tac. _Oleo mero_; Other editors: _Oleo, mero_. V. The comma is misplaced. [117] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ PREPARE THE BOILED PARSNIPS WITH THE FOLLOWING SAUCE: CELERY SEED, RUE, HONEY, GROUND PEPPER, MIXED WITH RAISIN WINE, STOCK AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND THIS WITH ROUX [bring to a boiling point, immerse parsnips] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [118] ANOTHER WAY [Purée of Parsnips] [1] _ALITER_ MASH THE PARSNIPS, [add] CUMIN, RUE, STOCK, A LITTLE CONDENSED WINE, OIL, GREEN CORIANDER [and] LEEKS AND SERVE; GOES WELL WITH SALT PORK [2]. [1] Again faulty punctuation obscures the text. Carefully compare the following: Tac. and Tor. _Spondylos teres, cuminum_, etc. Hum., List. and G.-V. _S. teres cuminum_, i.e. crush the cumin. Sch. _S. tores_--dry, parch! [2] _Inferes pro salso_--serve with salt pork or bacon, or, instead of--_Salsum_--salt pork. Dann. Well seasoned with salt! Sch. _infares pro salsa_. For further confirmation of _salsum_ cf. {Rx} Nos. 148-152. [119] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ BOIL THE PARSNIPS [sufficiently, if] HARD [1] [then] PUT THEM IN A SAUCE PAN AND STEW WITH OIL, STOCK, PEPPER, RAISIN WINE, STRAIN [2] AND BIND WITH ROUX. [1] Tor. _præduratos_; List. _prædurabis_. How can they be hardened? It may perhaps stand for "parboil." We agree with Tor. that the hard ones (_præduratos_) must be cooked soft. [2] Tor. and Tac. _Colabis_--strain; List. and G.-V. _Colorabis_--color. No necessity for coloring the gravy, but straining after the binding with roux is important which proves Tor. correct again. Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 73 and note 2 to {Rx} No. 55. [120] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ [1] FINISH [marinate] THE PARSNIPS IN OIL AND BROTH, OR FRY THEM IN OIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PEPPER, AND SERVE. [1] Ex G.-V. wanting in Tor. and List. Found in Sch. also. V. Procedure quite in accordance with modern practice. We envelope the p. in flour or frying batter. [121] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ [1] BRUISE THE BOILED PARSNIPS [scallops, muscular part of shellfish] ELIMINATE THE HARD STRINGS; ADD BOILED SPELT AND CHOPPED HARD EGGS, STOCK AND PEPPER. MAKE CROQUETTES OR SAUSAGE FROM THIS, ADDING PIGNOLIA NUT AND PEPPER, WRAP IN CAUL [or fill in casings] FRY AND SERVE THEM AS AN ENTRÉE DISH IN A WINE SAUCE. [1] V. This formula is virtually a repetition of {Rx} No. 46, all the more bewildering because of the divergence of the term (Cf. {Rx} No. 115), which stands for "scallops" or the muscular part of any bivalve, at least in the above formula. The Græco-Latin word for cow-parsnip is _spondylium_, _sphondylium_, _spondylion_. It is almost certain that the preceding parsnips formulæ are in the right place here. They are in direct line with the other vegetables here treated--the shellfish--_spondylus_--would be out of place in this chapter, Book III, The Gardener. All the recipes, with the exception of the above, fit a vegetable like parsnips. Even Lister's and Humelberg's interpretation of the term, who read _spongioli_--mushrooms--could be questioned under this heading, Book III. It is barely possible that this entire series of formulæ, _Spondyli uel fonduli_ ({Rx} Nos. 115-121) does belong to Book II among the scallop _hysitia_, though we are little inclined to accept this theory. Cf. {Rx} No. 122 which appears to be a confirmation of the view expressed above. XXI [122] CARROTS AND PARSNIPS _CAROTÆ ET PASTINACÆ_ CARROTS OR PARSNIPS ARE FRIED [and served] WITH A WINE SAUCE. V. Exactly like {Rx} No. 115, which may be a confirmation that _spondyli_ stands for cow-parsnips. [123] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE CARROTS [are cooked] SALTED [and served] WITH PURE OIL AND VINEGAR. V. As a salad. "Italian Salad" consists of a variety of such cooked vegetables, nicely dressed with oil and vinegar, or with mayonnaise. Cf. {Rx} No. 102. [124] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE CARROTS [are] BOILED [and] SLICED, STEWED WITH CUMIN AND A LITTLE OIL AND ARE SERVED. AT THE SAME TIME [1] [here is your opportunity] MAKE A CUMIN SAUCE [from the carrot juice] FOR THOSE WHO HAVE THE COLIC [2]. [1] Ex Tor. wanting elsewhere. [2] Tac. _coliorum_; Tor. _cuminatum colicorum_; List. _c. coloratum_--colored; G.-V. _c. colorium_. END OF BOOK III _EXPLICIT APICII CEPURICA DE OLERIBUS LIBER TERTIUS_ [Tac.] {Illustration: THERMOSPODIUM OF PLAIN DESIGN Water and food heater for everyday purposes. Charcoal fuel. Foods were kept on top in pans, dishes or pots, and were thus carried from the kitchen into the dining room. They were also used for food service in hotel rooms, supplied from adjacent tavern kitchens, as some hotels had no food preparation facilities. This handy apparatus was designed for general utility, as it also served as a portable stove on chilly days in living rooms that were not heated from the central heating plant found in larger houses. Ntl. Mus. Naples, 73882; Field M. 24179.} APICIUS