BOOK VII. SUMPTUOUS DISHES

_Lib. VII. Polyteles_ CHAP. I. SOW'S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, BACON, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET. CHAP. II. SOW'S BELLY. CHAP. III. FIG-FED PORK. CHAP. IV. TID-BITS, CHOPS, STEAKS. CHAP. V. ROASTS. CHAP. VI. BOILED AND STEWED MEATS. CHAP. VII. PAUNCH. CHAP. VIII. LOINS AND KIDNEYS. CHAP. IX. PORK SHOULDER. CHAP. X. LIVERS AND LUNGS. CHAP. XI. HOME-MADE SWEETS. CHAP. XII. BULBS, TUBERS. CHAP. XIII. MUSHROOMS. CHAP. XIV. TRUFFLES. CHAP. XV. TAROS, DASHEENS. CHAP. XVI. SNAILS. CHAP. XVII. EGGS. [In addition to the above chapters two more are inserted in the text of Book VII, namely Chap. X, Fresh Ham and Chap. XI, To Cook Salt Pork; these being inserted after Chap. IX, Pork Shoulder, making a total of XIX Chapters.] I SOW'S WOMB, CRACKLINGS, UDDER, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET _VULVÆ STERILES, CALLUM LUMBELLI COTICULÆ ET UNGELLÆ_ [251] SPAYED SOW'S WOMB [1] _VULVÆ STERILES_ STERILE SOW'S WOMB (ALSO UDDER AND BELLY) IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: TAKE [2] LASER FROM CYRENE OR PARTHIA, VINEGAR AND BROTH. [1] The vulva of a sow was a favorite dish with the ancients, considered a great delicacy. Sows were slaughtered before they had a litter, or were spayed for the purpose of obtaining the sterile womb. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [252] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ TAKE PEPPER, CELERY SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. [253] SPAYED SOW'S WOMB _VULVÆ STERILES_ WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND PARTHIAN LASER. [254] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1] AND BROTH AND A LITTLE CONDIMENT. [1] Wanting in Lister. [255] CRACKLINGS, PORK SKIN, TENDERLOIN, TAILS AND FEET _CALLUM, LUMBELLI _[1]_ COTICULÆ, UNGELLÆ_ SERVE WITH PEPPER, BROTH AND LASER (WHICH THE GREEKS CALL "SILPHION") [2]. [1] Tor., G.-V. _libelli_. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [256] GRILLED SOW'S WOMB _VULVAM UT TOSTAM FACIAS_ ENVELOPE IN BRAN, AFTERWARDS [1] PUT IN BRINE AND THEN COOK IT. [1] We would reverse the process: first pickle the vulva, then coat it with bran (or with bread crumbs) and fry. II [257] SOW'S BELLY _SUMEN_ SOW'S UDDER OR BELLY WITH THE PAPS ON IT IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER [1] THE BELLY BOIL, TIE IT TOGETHER WITH REEDS, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN, OR, START ROASTING ON THE GRIDIRON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH BROTH, PURE WINE, ADDING RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, THICKEN [the sauce] WITH ROUX AND POUR IT OVER THE ROAST. [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [258] STUFFED SOW'S BELLY _SUMEN PLENUM_ FULL [1] SOW'S BELLY IS STUFFED WITH [2] CRUSHED PEPPER, CARRAWAY, SALT MUSSELS; SEW THE BELLY TIGHT AND ROAST. ENJOY THIS WITH A BRINE SAUCE AND MUSTARD. [1] Full grown, also stuffed with forcemeat. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. III FIG-FED PORK _FICATUM_ [1] [1] Tor. _De Sycoto, id est, Ficato_. [259] WINE SAUCE FOR FIG-FED PORK _IN FICATO {OE}NOGARUM_ [1] FIG-FED PORK LIVER (THAT IS, LIVER CRAMMED WITH FIGS) IS PREPARED IN A WINE SAUCE WITH [2] PEPPER, THYME, LOVAGE, BROTH, A LITTLE WINE AND OIL [3]. [1] Tor. _Ficatum, iecur suillum_. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [3] Reinsenius, _ficatum_ [_or sicatum_] _projecore_. According to the invention of Marcus Apicius, pigs were starved, and the hungry pigs were crammed with dry figs and then suddenly given all the mead they wanted to drink. The violent expansion of the figs in the stomachs, or the fermentation caused acute indigestion which killed the pigs. The livers were very much enlarged, similar to the cramming of geese for the sake of obtaining abnormally large livers. This latter method prevailed in the Strassburg District until recently when it was prohibited by law. [260] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ TRIM [the liver] MARINATE IN BROTH, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, TWO LAUREL BERRIES, WRAP IN CAUL, GRILL ON THE GRIDIRON AND SERVE. Goll. Stick figs into the liver by making apertures with the knife or with a needle. It is by no means clear that the liver is meant. IV TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS _OFFELLÆ_ [1] [261] OSTIAN [2] MEAT BALLS _OFFELLÆ OSTIENSES_ PREPARE THE MEAT IN THIS MANNER [3] CLEAN THE MEAT [of bones, sinews, etc.] SCRAPE IT AS THIN AS A SKIN [and shape it]. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CARRAWAY, SILPHIUM, ONE LAUREL BERRY, MOISTENED WITH BROTH; IN A SQUARE DISH PLACE THE MEAT BALLS AND THE SPICES WHERE THEY REMAIN IN PICKLING FOR TWO OR THREE DAYS, COVERED CROSSWISE WITH TWIGS. THEN PLACE THEM IN THE OVEN [to be roasted], WHEN DONE TAKE THE FINISHED MEAT BALLS OUT. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, WITH THE BROTH, ADD A LITTLE RAISIN WINE TO SWEETEN. COOK IT, THICKEN WITH ROUX, IMMERSE THE BALLS IN THE SAUCE AND SERVE. [1] G.-V. _Ofellæ_; apparently the old Roman "Hamburger Steak." The term covers different small meat pieces, chops, steaks, etc. [2] Ostia, town at the mouth of the river Tiber, Rome's harbour. [3] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [262] APICIAN ROULADES _OFFELLAS APICIANAS_ BONE THE MEAT FOR THE [roulades--a pork loin, roll it, tie it] OVEN, SHAPE ROUND, COVER WITH OR WRAP IN RUSHES. [Roast] WHEN DONE, RETIRE, ALLOW TO DRIP AND DRY ON THE GRIDIRON BUT SO THAT THE MEAT DOES NOT HARDEN. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUSH [1], CUMIN, ADDING BROTH AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. PLACE THE ROULADES WITH THIS SAUCE TOGETHER IN A SAUCE PAN [finish by braising] WHEN DONE, RETIRE THE ROULADES AND DRY THEM. SERVE WITHOUT THE GRAVY SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. IF TOO FAT REMOVE THE OUTER SKIN [2]. [1] _Cyperis_, _--os_, _--um_, _cypirus_, variants for a sort of rush; probably "Cyprian Grass." [2] Dann. Dumplings; but this formula appears to deal with boneless pork chops, pork roulades or "_filets mignons_." [263] PORK CUTLETS, HUNTER STYLE _OFFELLÆ APRUGNEO _[1]_ MORE_ IN THE SAME MANNER YOU CAN MAKE TIDBITS OF SOW'S BELLY [2] PORK CHOPS PREPARED IN A MANNER TO RESEMBLE WILD BOAR ARE [3] PICKLED IN OIL AND BROTH AND PLACED IN SPICES. WHEN THE CUTLETS ARE DONE [marinated] THE PICKLE IS PLACED ON THE FIRE AND BOILED; THE CUTLETS ARE PUT BACK INTO THIS GRAVY AND ARE FINISHED WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH, AND ROUX. WHEN THIS IS DONE SERVE THE CUTLETS WITHOUT THE BROTH AND OIL, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. [1] G.-V. _Aprugineo_; List. _Offellæ Aprugneæ_, i.e. wild boar chops or cutlets. Vat. Ms. _aprogneo more_; Tor. _pro genuino more_; Tac. _aprogeneo_--from _aprugnus_, wild boar. Mutton today is prepared in a similar way, marinated with spices, etc., to resemble venison, and is called _Mouton à la Chasseur_, hunter style. [2] This sentence, probably belonging to the preceding formula, carried over by Torinus. [3] This sentence only in Torinus. [264] TIDBITS ANOTHER WAY _ALITER OFFELLÆ_ THE BALLS OR CUTLETS ARE [1] PROPERLY FRIED IN THE PAN, NEARLY DONE. [Next prepare the following] ONE WHOLE [2] GLASS BROTH, A GLASS OF WATER, A GLASS OF VINEGAR AND A GLASS OF OIL, PROPERLY MIXED; PUT THIS IN AN EARTHEN BAKING DISH [immerse meat pieces] FINISH ON THE FIRE AND SERVE. [1] Tor. [2] Tor. _Summi_; List. _sumis_, i.e. broth of the pork. [265] TIDBITS IN ANOTHER STYLE _ALITER OFFELLAS_ ALSO FRY THE CUTLETS THIS WAY: [1] IN A PAN WITH PLENTY OF WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [ANOTHER WAY] [2] THE CUTLETS PREVIOUSLY SALT AND PICKLED IN A BROTH OF CUMIN, ARE PROPERLY FRIED [3]. [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [2] The texts have two formulæ; by the transposition of the two sentences the formula appears as a whole and one that is intelligible from a culinary point of view. [3] The texts have: _in aqua recte friguntur_; the _acqua_ presumably belongs to the cumin pickle. To fry in water is not possible. V CHOICE ROASTS [1] _ASSATURÆ_ [266] ROASTING, PLAIN _ASSATURAM SIMPLICEM_ [2] SIMPLY PUT THE MEATS TO BE ROASTED IN THE OVEN, GENEROUSLY SPRINKLED WITH SALT, AND SERVE [it glazed] WITH HONEY [3]. [1] Tor. _De assaturæ exquisitæ apparatu_. [2] Brandt adds "plain." [3] Corresponding to our present method of roasting; fresh and processed ham is glazed with sugar. Roasting in the oven is not as desirable as roasting on the spit, universally practised during the middle ages. The spit seems to have been unknown to the Romans. It is seldom used today, although we have improved it by turning it with electrical machinery. [267] ANOTHER STYLE FOR ROASTS _ALITER ASSATURAS_ TAKE 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, OF LASER [1] JUST AS MANY, 6 OF GINGER, 5 LAUREL BERRIES, 6 SCRUPLES OF PRESERVED LASER ROOT, CYPRIAN RUSH 6, 6 OF ORIGANY, A LITTLE COSTMARY, 3 SCRUPLES OF CHAMOMILE [or pellitory], 6 SCRUPLES OF CELERY SEED, 12 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, AND BROTH AND OIL AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE UP [2]. [1] G.-V. _asareos_ [?] _Asarum_, the herb foalbit, wild spikenard. [2] No directions are given for the making of this compound which are essential to insure success of this formula. Outwardly it resembles some of the commercial sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), which are served with every roast. [268] ANOTHER [Condiment for] ROAST _ALITER ASSATURAS_ CRUSH DRY MYRTLE BERRIES WITH CUMIN AND PEPPER, ADDING HONEY ALSO BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. POUR THIS OVER THE ROAST THAT IS MEDIUM DONE, WITH SALT; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [269] ANOTHER ROAST [Sauce] _ALITER ASSATURAS_ 6 SCRUPLES PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES LOVAGE, 6 SCRUPLES PARSLEY, 6 SCRUPLES CELERY SEED, 6 SCRUPLES DILL, 6 SCRUPLES LASER ROOT, 6 SCRUPLES WILD SPIKENARD [1], 6 SCRUPLES CYPRIAN RUSH, 6 SCRUPLES CARRAWAY, 6 SCRUPLES CUMIN, 6 SCRUPLES GINGER, A PINT OF BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL. [1] Tor. _assareos_; cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 267. [270] ROAST NECK [1] _ASSATURAS IN COLLARI_ PUT IN A BRAISIÈRE [2] AND BOIL PEPPER, SPICES, HONEY, BROTH; AND HEAT THIS WITH THE MEAT IN THE OVEN. THE NECK PIECE ITSELF, IF YOU LIKE, IS ALSO ROASTED WITH SPICES AND THE HOT GRAVY IS SIMPLY POURED OVER AT THE MOMENT OF SERVING [3]. [1] A piece of meat from the neck of a food animal, beef, veal, pork; a muscular hard piece, requiring much care to make it palatable, a "pot roast." [2] A roasting pan especially adapted for braising tough meats, with closefitting cover to hold the vapors. [3] Tor. combines this and the foregoing formula. G.-V. _siccum calidum_, for hot gravy. Perhaps a typographical error for _succum_. VI BOILED, STEWED MEATS, AND DAINTY FOOD _IN ELIXAM ET COPADIA_ [271] SAUCE FOR ALL BOILED DISHES _JUS IN ELIXAM OMNEM_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, RUE, SILPHIUM, DRY ONION, WINE, REDUCED WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, A LITTLE OIL, BOILED DOWN, STRAINED THROUGH A CLOTH AND POURED UNDER THE HOT COOKED MEATS [1]. [1] A very complicated sauce for boiled viands. Most of the ingredients are found in the Worcestershire Sauce. [272] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS _JUS IN ELIXAM_ MAKE IT THUS: [Tor.] PEPPER, PARSLEY, BROTH, VINEGAR, FIG-DATES, ONIONS, LITTLE OIL, POURED UNDER VERY HOT. [273] ANOTHER _JUS IN ELIXAM_ CRUSH PEPPER, DRY RUE, FENNEL SEED, ONION, FIGDATES, WITH BROTH AND OIL. [274] WHITE [bread] [1] SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS _JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM_ WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES IS MADE THUS: [2] PEPPER, BROTH, WINE, RUE, ONIONS, NUTS, A LITTLE SPICE, BREAD SOAKED TO THE SATURATION POINT, OIL, WHICH IS COOKED AND SPREAD UNDER [the meat]. [1] Our present bread sauce, somewhat simpler, but essentially the same as the Apician sauce, is very popular with roast partridge, pheasant and other game in England. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [275] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED VIANDS _ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN ELIXAM_ ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED DISHES CONTAINS: [1] PEPPER, CARRAWAY, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, SHALLOTS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. [276] WHITE SAUCE FOR DAINTY FOOD _IN COPADIIS _[1]_ JUS ALBUM_ TAKE CUMIN, LOVAGE, RUE SEED, PLUMS FROM DAMASCUS [2] SOAK IN WINE, ADD HONEY MEAD AND VINEGAR, THYME AND ORIGANY TO TASTE [3]. [1] Lacking definite description of the _copadia_ it is hard to differentiate between them and the _offelæ_.--_Cupedia_ (Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, from _cupiditas_, appetite, desire for dainty fare. Hence _cupedinarius_ (Terent.) and _cupediarius_ (Lamprid.) a seller or maker of dainties, a confectioner. [2] _Damascena_; they correspond apparently to our present stewed (dried) prunes. It is inconceivable how this sauce can be white in color, but, as a condiment and if taken in small quantity, it has our full approval. [3] G.-V. _agitabis_, i.e. stir the sauce with a whip of thyme and origany twigs. Cf. note to following. [277] ANOTHER WHITE SAUCE FOR APPETIZERS _ALITER JUS CANDIDUM IN COPADIIS_ IS MADE THUS [1] PEPPER, THYME, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, FENNEL, RUE, MINT [2], MYRTLE BERRIES, RAISINS, RAISIN WINE, AND MEAD TO TASTE; STIR IT WITH A TWIG OF SATURY [3]. [1] Tor. [2] G.-V., rue wanting. [3] An ingenious way to impart a very subtle flavor. The sporadic discoveries of such very subtle and refined methods (cf. notes to {Rx} No. 15) should dispell once and for all time the old theories that the ancients were using spices to excess. They simply used a greater variety of flavors and aromas than we do today, but there is no proof that spices were used excessively. The great variety of flavors at the disposal of the ancients speaks well for the refinement of the olfactory sense and the desire to bring variety into their fare. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 345, 369 and 385. [278] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS _JUS IN COPADIIS_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, MINT, LEAVES OF SPIKENARD (WHICH THE GREEKS CALL "NARDOSACHIOM") [_sic!_] [1] YOLKS, HONEY, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. STIR WELL WITH SATURY AND LEEKS [2] AND TIE WITH ROUX. [1] Tor. [_sic!_] _spicam nardi_--sentence wanting in other texts. G.-V. _nardostachyum_, spikenard. [2] A fagot of satury and leeks! Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 276 and 277. [279] WHITE SAUCE FOR TIDBITS _JUS ALBUM IN COPADIIS_ IS MADE THUS: [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, THYME, NUTS, WHICH SOAK AND CLEAN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL TO BE ADDED [2]. [1, 2] First three and last three words in Tor. [280] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS _JUS IN COPADIIS_ PEPPER, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, SATURY, SAFFRON, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, FIGDATES, BROTH, OIL AND A LITTLE MUSTARD; COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST. [281] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS _JUS IN COPADIIS_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, SHALLOTS, TOASTED ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND OIL. [282] SAUCE FOR TIDBITS _JUS IN COPADIIS_ CHOP HARD EGGS, PEPPER, CUMIN, PARSLEY, COOKED LEEKS, MYRTLE BERRIES, SOMEWHAT MORE HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. [283] RAW DILL SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH _IN ELIXAM ANETHATUM CRUDUM_ PEPPER, DILL SEED, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, POUR UNDER: VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST AND OIL TO TASTE; AND SERVE IT WITH ROAST PORK SHOULDER. [284] BRINY SAUCE FOR BOILED DISH _JUS IN ELIXAM ALLECATUM_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, THYME, SHALLOTS, DATES, FISH BRINE [1] STRAINED HONEY, AND WINE TO TASTE; SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED GREEN CELERY AND OIL AND SERVE. [1] G.-V. _allecem_; Tor. _Halecem_. VII PAUNCH _VENTRICULA_ [285] PIG'S PAUNCH _VENTREM PORCINUM_ CLEAN THE PAUNCH OF A SUCKLING PIG WELL WITH SALT AND VINEGAR AND PRESENTLY WASH WITH WATER. THEN FILL IT WITH THE FOLLOWING DRESSING: PIECES OF PORK POUNDED IN THE MORTAR, THREE BRAINS--THE NERVES REMOVED--MIX WITH RAW EGGS, ADD NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SAUCE TO TASTE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SILPHIUM, ANISE, GINGER, A LITTLE RUE; FILL THE PAUNCH WITH IT, NOT TOO MUCH, THOUGH, LEAVING PLENTY OF ROOM FOR EXPANSION LEST IT BURSTS WHILE BEING COOKED. PUT IT IN A POT WITH BOILING WATER, RETIRE AND PRICK WITH A NEEDLE SO THAT IT DOES NOT BURST. WHEN HALF DONE, TAKE IT OUT AND HANG IT INTO THE SMOKE TO TAKE ON COLOR; NOW BOIL IT OVER AGAIN AND FINISH IT LEISURELY. NEXT TAKE THE BROTH, SOME PURE WINE AND A LITTLE OIL, OPEN THE PAUNCH WITH A SMALL KNIFE. SPRINKLE WITH THE BROTH AND LOVAGE; PLACE THE PIG NEAR THE FIRE TO HEAT IT, TURN IT AROUND IN BRAN [or bread crumbs] IMMERSE IN [sprinkle with] BRINE AND FINISH [the outer crust to a golden brown] [1]. [1] The good old English way of finishing a roast joint called dredging. Lister has this formula divided into two; Danneil and Schuch make three different formulas out of it. VIII LOINS AND KIDNEYS _LUMBI ET RENES_ [286] ROAST LOINS MADE THUS _LUMBULI ASSI ITA FIUNT_ SPLIT THEM INTO TWO PARTS SO THAT THEY ARE SPREAD OUT [1] SPRINKLE THE OPENING WITH CRUSHED PEPPER AND [ditto] NUTS, FINELY CHOPPED CORIANDER AND CRUSHED FENNEL SEED. THE TENDERLOINS ARE THEN ROLLED UP TO BE ROASTED; TIE TOGETHER, WRAP IN CAUL, PARBOIL IN OIL [2] AND BROTH, AND THEN ROAST IN THE OVEN OR BROIL ON THE GRIDIRON. [1] "Frenched," the meat here being pork tenderloin. [2] G.-V. best broth and a little oil, which is more acceptable. IX HAM _PERNA_ [287] [Baked Picnic] HAM [Pork Shoulder, fresh or cured] _PERNAM_ THE HAM SHOULD BE BRAISED WITH A GOOD NUMBER OF FIGS AND SOME THREE LAUREL LEAVES; THE SKIN IS THEN PULLED OFF AND CUT INTO SQUARE PIECES; THESE ARE MACERATED WITH HONEY. THEREUPON MAKE DOUGH CRUMBS OF FLOUR AND OIL [1] LAY THE DOUGH OVER OR AROUND THE HAM, STUD THE TOP WITH THE PIECES OF THE SKIN SO THAT THEY WILL BE BAKED WITH THE DOUGH [bake slowly] AND WHEN DONE, RETIRE FROM THE OVEN AND SERVE [2]. [1] Ordinary pie or pastry dough, or perhaps a preparation similar to streusel, unsweetened. [2] Experimenting with this formula, we have adhered to the instructions as closely as possible, using regular pie dough to envelop the parboiled meat. The figs were retired from the sauce pan long before the meat was done and they were served around the ham as a garnish. As a consequence we partook of a grand dish that no inmate of Olympus would have sneezed at. In Pompeii an inn-keeper had written the following on the wall of his establishment: _Ubi perna cocta est si convivæ apponitur non gustat pernam linguit ollam aut caccabum._ When we first beheld this message we took the inn-keeper for a humorist and clever advertiser; but now we are convinced that he was in earnest when he said that his guests would lick the sauce pan in which his hams were cooked. [288] TO COOK PORK SHOULDER _PERNÆ _[1]_ COCTURAM_ HAM SIMPLY COOKED IN WATER WITH FIGS IS USUALLY DRESSED ON A PLATTER [baking pan] SPRINKLED WITH CRUMBS AND REDUCED WINE, OR, STILL BETTER, WITH SPICED WINE [and is glazed under the open flame, or with a shovel containing red-hot embers]. [1] _Perna_ is usually applied to shoulder of pork, fresh, also cured. _Coxa_ is the hind leg, or haunch of pork, or fresh ham. Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 289. X [289] FRESH HAM _MUSTEIS _[1]_ PETASONEM_ [2] A FRESH HAM IS COOKED WITH 2 POUNDS OF BARLEY AND 25 FIGS. WHEN DONE SKIN, GLAZE THE SURFACE WITH A FIRE SHOVEL FULL OF GLOWING COALS, SPREAD HONEY OVER IT, OR, WHAT'S BETTER: PUT IT IN THE OVEN COVERED WITH HONEY. WHEN IT HAS A NICE COLOR, PUT IN A SAUCE PAN RAISIN WINE, PEPPER, A BUNCH OF RUE AND PURE WINE TO TASTE. WHEN THIS [sauce] IS DONE, POUR HALF OF IT OVER THE HAM AND IN THE OTHER HALF SOAK SPECIALLY MADE GINGER BREAD [3] THE REMNANT OF THE SAUCE AFTER MOST OF IT IS THOROUGHLY SOAKED INTO THE BREAD, ADD TO THE HAM [4]. [1] _Musteus_, fresh, young, new; _vinum mustum_, new wine, must. Properly perhaps, _Petasonem ex mustaceis_; cf. note 3. [2] Hum. _verum petaso coxa cum crure_ [shank] _esse dicitur...._ Plainly, we are dealing here with fresh, uncured ham. [3] A certain biscuit or cake made of must, spices and pepper, perhaps baked on laurel leaves. _Mustaceus_ was a kind of cake, the flour of which had been kneaded with must, cheese, anise, etc., the cake was baked upon laurel leaves. [4] Tor. continues without interruption. He has the three foregoing formulæ thrown into one. XI [290] BACON, SALT PORK _LARIDI _[1]_ COCTURA_ COVER WITH WATER AND COOK WITH PLENTY OF DILL; SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE OIL AND A TRIFLE OF SALT. [1] Lister, at this point, has forgotten his explanation of _laridum_, and now accepts the word in its proper sense. This rather belated correction by Lister confirms the correctness of our own earlier observations. Cf. note to {Rx} Nos. 41 and 148. XII LIVERS AND LUNGS _JECINORA SIVE PULMONES_ [291] SHEEP LIVER _JECINORA H{OE}DINA VEL AGNINA_ [1] COOK THUS: MAKE A MIXTURE OF WATER, MEAD, EGGS AND MILK IN WHICH THOROUGHLY SOAK THE SLICED LIVER. STEW THE LIVER IN WINE SAUCE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] G.-V. _Iecinera h{oe}dina_. [292] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK LUNG _ALITER IN PULMONIBUS_ LIVER AND LUNG ARE ALSO COOKED THIS WAY: [1] SOAK WELL IN MILK, STRAIN IT OFF IF OFFENSIVE IN TASTE [2] BREAK 2 EGGS AND ADD A LITTLE SALT, MIX IN A SPOONFUL HONEY AND FILL THE LUNG WITH IT, BOIL AND SLICE [3]. [1] Tor. [2] Lungs of slaughtered animals are little used nowadays. The soaking of livers in milk is quite common; it removes the offensive taste of the gall. [3] G.-V. continue without interruption. [293] A HASH OF LIVER _ALITER_ CRUSH PEPPER, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, RAISIN WINE, PURE OIL, CHOP THE LIGHTS [1] FINE AND ADD WINE SAUCE [2]. [1] Edible intestines, livers, lung, kidney, etc., are thus named. [2] List., Tor., G.-V. have both recipes in one. Dann. is in doubt whether to separate them or not. XIII HOME-MADE SWEET DISHES AND HONEY SWEET-MEATS _DULCIA DOMESTICA _[1]_ ET MELCÆ_ [294] HOME-MADE SWEETS _DULCIA DOMESTICA_ LITTLE HOME CONFECTIONS (WHICH ARE CALLED DULCIARIA) ARE MADE THUS: [2] LITTLE PALMS OR (AS THEY ARE ORDINARILY CALLED) [3] DATES ARE STUFFED--AFTER THE SEEDS HAVE BEEN REMOVED--WITH A NUT OR WITH NUTS AND GROUND PEPPER, SPRINKLED WITH SALT ON THE OUTSIDE AND ARE CANDIED IN HONEY AND SERVED [4]. [1] _Dulcia_, sweetmeats, cakes; hence _dulciarius_, a pastry cook or confectioner. The fact that here attention is drawn to home-made sweet dishes may clear up the absence of regular baking and dessert formulæ in Apicius. The trade of the _dulciarius_ was so highly developed at that time that the professional bakers and confectioners supplied the entire home market with their wares, making it convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook to compete with their organized business, a condition which largely exists in our modern highly civilized centers of population today. Cf. "Cooks." [2 + 3] Tor. [4] Still being done today in the same manner. [295] ANOTHER SWEETMEAT _ALITER DULCIA_ GRATE [scrape, peel] SOME VERY BEST FRESH APHROS [1] AND IMMERSE IN MILK. WHEN SATURATED PLACE IN THE OVEN TO HEAT BUT NOT TO DRY OUT; WHEN THOROUGHLY HOT RETIRE FROM OVEN, POUR OVER SOME HONEY, STIPPLE [the fruit] SO THAT THE HONEY MAY PENETRATE, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE. [1] Tor., Tac., Lan. _musteos aphros_; Vat. Ms., G.-V. _afros_; List. _apios_, i.e. celery, which is farthest from the mark. Goll. interprets this a "cider apple," reminiscent, probably, of _musteos_, which is fresh, new, young, and which has here nothing to do with cider. _Aphros_ is not identified. Perhaps the term stood for Apricots (Old English: Aphricocks) or some other African fruit or plant; Lister's celery is to be rejected on gastronomical grounds. The above treatment would correspond to that which is given apricots and peaches today. They are peeled, immersed in cream and sweetened with sugar. Apicius' heating of the fruit in milk is new to us; it sounds good, for it has a tendency to parboil any hard fruit, make it more digestible and reduce the fluid to a creamy consistency. [2] The "pepper" again, as pointed out in several other places, here is some spice of agreeable taste as are used in desserts today. [296] ANOTHER SWEET DISH _ALITER DULCIA_ BREAK [slice] FINE WHITE BREAD, CRUST REMOVED, INTO RATHER LARGE PIECES WHICH SOAK IN MILK [and beaten eggs] FRY IN OIL, COVER WITH HONEY AND SERVE [1]. [1] "French" Toast, indeed!--_Sapienti sat!_ [297] ANOTHER SWEET _ALITER DULCIA_ IN A CHAFING-DISH PUT [1] HONEY, PURE WINE, RAISIN WINE, RUE, PINE NUTS, NUTS, COOKED SPELT, ADD CRUSHED AND TOASTED HAZELNUTS [2] AND SERVE. [1] G.-V. _Piperato mittis_. _Piperatum_ is a dish prepared with pepper, any spicy dish; the term may here be applied to the bowl in which the porridge is served. Tac. _Dulcia piperata mittis_. [2] Dann. Almonds. [298] ANOTHER SWEET _ALITER DULCIA_ CRUSH PEPPER, NUTS, HONEY, RUE, AND RAISIN WINE WITH MILK, AND COOK THE MIXTURE [1] WITH A FEW EGGS WELL WORKED IN, COVER WITH HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH [crushed nuts, etc.] AND SERVE. [1] _Tractam_, probably with a starch added, or else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143. [299] ANOTHER SWEET _ALITER DULCIA_ TAKE A PREPARATION SIMILAR [1] [to the above] AND IN THE HOT WATER [bath or double boiler] MAKE A VERY HARD PORRIDGE OF IT. THEREUPON SPREAD IT OUT ON A PAN AND WHEN COOL CUT IT INTO HANDY PIECES LIKE SMALL COOKIES. FRY THESE IN THE BEST OIL, TAKE THEM OUT, DIP INTO [hot] HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [2] AND SERVE. [1] This confirms the assumption that some flour or meal is used in {Rx} No. 298 also without which this present preparation would not "stand up." [2] It is freely admitted that the word "pepper" not always stands for the spice that we know by this name. Cf. note 2 to {Rx} No. 295 _et al._ [300] A STILL BETTER WAY _ALITER_ IS TO PREPARE THIS WITH MILK INSTEAD OF WATER. [301] CUSTARD _TYROPATINAM_ ESTIMATE THE AMOUNT OF MILK NECESSARY FOR THIS DISH AND SWEETEN IT WITH HONEY TO TASTE; TO A PINT [1] OF FLUID TAKE 5 EGGS; FOR HALF A PINT [2] DISSOLVE 3 EGGS IN MILK AND BEAT WELL TO INCORPORATE THOROUGHLY, STRAIN THROUGH A COLANDER INTO AN EARTHEN DISH AND COOK ON A SLOW FIRE [in hot water bath in oven]. WHEN CONGEALED SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE [3]. [1] _Sextarium._ [2] _ad heminam._ [3] Dann. calls this a cheese cake, which is a far-fetched conclusion, although standard dictionaries say that the _tyropatina_ is a kind of cheese cake. It must be borne in mind, however, that the ancient definition of "custard" is "egg cheese," probably because of the similarity in appearance and texture. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143. [302] OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE [1] _OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE_ FOUR EGGS IN HALF A PINT OF MILK AND AN OUNCE OF OIL WELL BEATEN, TO MAKE A FLUFFY MIXTURE; IN A PAN PUT A LITTLE OIL, AND CAREFULLY ADD THE EGG PREPARATION, WITHOUT LETTING IT BOIL [2] HOWEVER. [Place it in the oven to let it rise] AND WHEN ONE SIDE IS DONE, TURN IT OUT INTO A SERVICE PLATTER [fold it] POUR OVER HONEY, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [3] AND SERVE [4]. [1] Dann. misled by the title, interprets this dish as "Floating Island"; he, the chef, has completely misunderstood the ancient formula. [2] Tor. _sinas bullire_--which is correct. List. _facies ut bulliat_--which is monstrous. [3] G.-V. [4] Tor. continues without interruption. [303] CHEESE AND HONEY _MEL ET CASEUM_ [1] PREPARE [cottage] CHEESE EITHER WITH HONEY AND BROTH [brine] OR WITH SALT, OIL AND [chopped] CORIANDER [2]. [1] G.-V. _Melca ... stum_; List. _mel castum_, refined honey; Tac. _Mel caseum_; Tor. _mel, caseum_. Cf. {Rx} No. 294. [2] To season cottage (fresh curd) cheese today we use salt, pepper, cream, carraway or chopped chives; sometimes a little sugar. XIV [304] BULBS [1] _BULBOS_ SERVE WITH OIL, BROTH AND VINEGAR, WITH A LITTLE CUMIN SPRINKLED OVER. [1] Onions, roots of tulips, narcissus. Served raw sliced, with the above dressing, or cooked. Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 307. [305] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ SOAK [1] THE BULBS AND PARBOIL THEM IN WATER; THEREUPON FRY THEM IN OIL. THE DRESSING MAKE THUS: TAKE THYME, FLEA-BANE, PEPPER, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, IF YOU LIKE [2] BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] Tor. _tundes_; probably a typographical error, as this should read _fundis_, i.e. _infundis_. Wanting in the other texts. [306] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ COOK THE BULBS INTO A THICK PURÉE [1] AND SEASON WITH THYME, ORIGANY, HONEY, VINEGAR, REDUCED WINE, DATE WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. [1] _Tundes_, i.e. mash. Practically a correction of {Rx} No. 305, repeated by Tor. [307] VARRO SAYS OF BULBS [1] _VARRO SI QUID DE BULBIS DIXIT_ COOKED IN WATER THEY ARE CONDUCIVE TO LOVE [2] AND ARE THEREFORE ALSO SERVED AT WEDDING FEASTS, BUT ALSO SEASONED WITH PIGNOLIA NUT OR WITH THE JUICE OF COLEWORT, OR MUSTARD, AND PEPPER. [1] The first instance in Apicius where the monotony and business-like recital of recipes is broken by some interesting quotation or remark. Brandt is of the opinion that this remark was added by a posterior reader. [2] The texts: _qui Veneris ostium quærunt_--"seek the mouth of Venus." This favorite superstition of the ancients leads many writers, as might be expected, into fanciful speculations. Humelberg, quoting Martial, says: _Veneram mirè stimulant, unde et salaces à Martiali vocantur._ 1. XIII, Ep. 34: _Cum sit anus conjunx, cum sint tibi mortua membra Nil aliud, bulbis quam satur esse potes._ We fail to find this quotation from Varro in his works, M. Teren. Varronis De Re Rustica, Lugduni, 1541, but we read in Columella and Pliny that the buds or shoots of reeds were called by some "bulbs," by others "eyes," and, remembering that these shoots make very desirable vegetables when properly cooked, we feel inclined to include these among the term "bulbs." Platina also adds the squill or sea onion to this category. Nonnus, p. 84, Diæteticon, Antwerp, 1645, quotes Columella as saying: _Jam Magaris veniant genitalia semina Bulbi._ [308] FRIED BULBS _BULBOS FRICTOS_ ARE SERVED WITH WINE SAUCE [Oenogarum]. XV MUSHROOMS OR MORELS [1] _FUNGI FARNEI VEL BOLETI_ [309] MORELS [2] _FUNGI FARNEI_ MORELS ARE COOKED QUICKLY IN GARUM AND PEPPER, TAKEN OUT, ALLOWED TO DRIP; ALSO BROTH WITH CRUSHED PEPPER MAY BE USED [to cook the mushrooms in]. [1] It is noteworthy that the term _spongiolus_ which creates so much misunderstanding in Book II is not used here in connection with mushrooms. Cf. {Rx} No. 115. [2] "Ashtree-Mushrooms." [310] FOR MORELS _IN FUNGIS FARNEIS_ PEPPER, REDUCED WINE, VINEGAR AND OIL. [311] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MORELS _ALITER FUNGI FARNEI_ IN SALT WATER, WITH OIL, PURE WINE, AND SERVE WITH CHOPPED CORIANDER. [312] MUSHROOMS _BOLETOS FUNGOS_ FRESH MUSHROOMS ARE STEWED [1] IN REDUCED WINE WITH A BUNCH OF GREEN CORIANDER, WHICH REMOVE BEFORE SERVING. [1] Tor. [313] ANOTHER STYLE OF MUSHROOMS _BOLETOS ALITER_ [1] MUSHROOM STEMS [or buds, very small mushrooms] ARE COOKED IN BROTH. SERVE SPRINKLED WITH SALT. [1] Tor. _Boletorum coliculi_; G.-V. _calyculos_. [314] ANOTHER WAY OF COOKING MUSHROOMS _BOLETOS ALITER_ SLICE THE MUSHROOM STEMS [1] [stew them as directed above] AND FINISH BY COVERING THEM WITH EGGS [2] ADDING PEPPER, LOVAGE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH AND OIL TO TASTE. [1] _Thyrsos._ [2] G.-V. _in patellam novam_; nothing said about eggs. Tor. _concisos in patellam; ovaque perfundes_; Tac. _ova perfundis_. A mushroom omelette. XVI [315] TRUFFLES _TUBERA_ SCRAPE [brush] THE TRUFFLES, PARBOIL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PUT SEVERAL OF THEM ON A SKEWER, HALF FRY THEM; THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH OIL, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, WINE, PEPPER, AND HONEY. WHEN DONE [retire the truffles] BIND [the liquor] WITH ROUX, DECORATE THE TRUFFLES NICELY AND SERVE [1]. [1] This formula clearly shows up the master Apicius. Truffles, among all earthly things, are the most delicate and most subtle in flavor. Only a master cook is privileged to handle them and to do them justice. Today, whenever we are fortunate enough to obtain the best fresh truffles, we are pursuing almost the same methods of preparation as described by Apicius. The commercially canned truffles bear not even a resemblance of their former selves. [316] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE TRUFFLES _ALITER TUBERA_ [Par]BOIL THE TRUFFLES, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND FASTEN THEM ON SKEWERS, HALF FRY THEM AND THEN PLACE THEM IN A SAUCE PAN WITH BROTH, VIRGIN OIL, REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE PURE WINE [1] CRUSHED PEPPER AND A LITTLE HONEY; ALLOW THEM TO FINISH [gently and well covered] WHEN DONE, BIND THE LIQUOR WITH ROUX, PRICK THE TRUFFLES SO THEY MAY BECOME SATURATED WITH THE JUICE, DRESS THEM NICELY, AND WHEN REAL HOT, SERVE. [1] Preferably Sherry or Madeira. [317] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ IF YOU WISH YOU MAY ALSO WRAP THE TRUFFLES IN CAUL OF PORK, BRAISE AND SO SERVE THEM. [318] ANOTHER TRUFFLE _ALITER TUBERA_ STEW THE TRUFFLES IN WINE SAUCE, WITH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL. [319] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES _ALITER TUBERA_ BRAISE THE TRUFFLES WITH PEPPER, MINT, RUE, HONEY, OIL, AND A LITTLE WINE. HEAT AND SERVE. [320] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES _ALITER TUBERA_ [1] PEPPER, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, MINT, CELERY, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, OR WINE, SALT OR BROTH, A LITTLE OIL. [1] Wanting in G.-V. [321] ANOTHER WAY FOR TRUFFLES _ALITER TUBERA_ [1] COOK THE TRUFFLES WITH LEEKS, SALT, PEPPER, CHOPPED CORIANDER, THE VERY BEST WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. [1] Wanting in Tor. This, to our notion of eating truffles, is the best formula, save {Rx} Nos. 315 and 316. XVII TARO, DASHEEN _IN COLOCASIO_ [322] COLOCASIUM [1] TARO, DASHEEN _COLOCASIUM_ FOR THE COLOCASIUM (WHICH IS REALLY THE COLOCASIA PLANT, ALSO CALLED "EGYPTIAN BEAN") USE [2] PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, OR BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL; WHEN DONE BIND WITH ROUX [3] COLOCASIUM IS THE ROOT OF THE EGYPTIAN BEAN WHICH IS USED EXCLUSIVELY [4]. [1] Cf. notes to {Rx} Nos. 74, 172, 216, 244; also the copious explanations by Humelberg, fol. III. [2] Tor. who is trying hard to explain the _colocasium_. His name, "Egyptian Bean" may be due to the mealiness and bean-like texture of the _colocasium_ tuber; otherwise there is no resemblance to a bean, except, perhaps, the seed pod which is not used for food. This simile has led other commentators to believe that the _colocasium_ in reality was a bean. The U.S. Department of Agriculture has in recent years imported various specimens of that taro species (belonging to the _colocasia_), and the plants are now successfully being farmed in the southern parts of the United States, with fair prospects of becoming an important article of daily diet. The Department has favored us repeatedly with samples of the taro, or dasheen, (_Colocasium Antiquorum_) and we have made many different experiments with this agreeable, delightful and important "new" vegetable. It can be prepared in every way like a potato, and possesses advantages over the potato as far as value of nutrition, flavor, culture and keeping qualities are concerned. As a commercial article, it is not any more expensive than any good kind of potato. It grows where the potato will not thrive, and vice versa. It thus saves much in freight to parts where the potato does not grow. The ancient _colocasium_ is no doubt a close relative of the modern dasheen or taro. The Apician _colocasium_ was perhaps very similar to the ordinary Elephant-Ear, _colocasium Antiquorum Schott_, often called _caladium esculentum_, or _tanyah_, more recently called the "Dasheen" which is a corruption of the French "de Chine"--from China--indicating the supposed origin of this variety of taro. The dasheen is a broad-leaved member of the _arum_ family. The name dasheen originated in the West Indies whence it was imported into the United States around 1910, and the name is now officially adopted. Mark Catesby, in his Natural History of Carolina, Florida and the Bahama Islands, London, 1781, describes briefly under the name of _arum maximum Aegypticum_ a plant which was doubtless one of the tanyahs or taros. He says: "This was a welcome improvement among the negroes and was esteemed a blessing; they being delighted with all their African food, particularly this, which a great part of Africa subsists much on." Torinus, groping for the right name, calls it variously _colosium_, _coledium_, _coloesium_, till he finally gets it right, _colocasium_. [3] The root or tubers of this plant was used by the ancients as a vegetable. They probably boiled and then peeled and sliced the tubers, seasoning the pieces with the above ingredients, heated them in bouillon stock and thickened the gravy in the usual way. Since the tuber is very starchy, little roux is required for binding. [4] Afterthought by Tor. printed in italics on the margin of his book. XVIII SNAILS _COCHLEAS_ [323] MILK-FED SNAILS _COCHLEAS LACTE PASTAS_ TAKE SNAILS AND SPONGE THEM; PULL THEM OUT OF THE SHELLS BY THE MEMBRANE AND PLACE THEM FOR A DAY IN A VESSEL WITH MILK AND SALT [1] RENEW THE MILK DAILY. HOURLY [2] CLEAN THE SNAILS OF ALL REFUSE, AND WHEN THEY ARE SO FAT THAT THEY CAN NO LONGER RETIRE [to their shells] FRY THEM IN OIL AND SERVE THEM WITH WINE SAUCE. IN A SIMILAR WAY THEY MAY BE FED ON A MILK PORRIDGE [3]. [1] Just enough so they do not drown. [2] Wanting in Tor. [3] The Romans raised snails for the table in special places called _cochlearia_. Fluvius Hirpinus is credited with having popularized the snail in Rome a little before the civil wars between Cæsar and Pompey. If we could believe Varro, snails grew to enormous proportions. A supper of the younger Pliny consisted of a head of lettuce, three snails, two eggs, a barley cake, sweet wine, refrigerated in snow. Snails as a food are not sufficiently appreciated by the Germanic races who do not hesitate to eat similar animals and are very fond of such food as oysters, clams, mussels, cocles, etc., much of which they even eat in the raw state. [324] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL AND [a sauce of] LASER, BROTH, PEPPER AND OIL IS UNDERLAID; OR THE FRIED SNAILS ARE FULLY COVERED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND CUMIN. Tor. divides this into three articles. [325] ANOTHER WAY FOR SNAILS _ALITER COCHLEAS_ THE LIVE SNAILS ARE SPRINKLED WITH MILK MIXED WITH THE FINEST WHEAT FLOUR, WHEN FAT AND NICE AND PLUMP THEY ARE COOKED. XIX EGGS _OVA_ [326] FRIED EGGS _OVA FRIXA_ FRIED EGGS ARE FINISHED IN WINE SAUCE. [327] BOILED EGGS _OVA ELIXA_ ARE SEASONED WITH BROTH, OIL, PURE WINE, OR ARE SERVED WITH BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER. [328] WITH POACHED EGGS _IN OVIS HAPALIS_ SERVE PEPPER, LOVAGE, SOAKED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. END OF BOOK VII _EXPLICIT APICII POLYTELES: LIBER SEPTIMUS_ [Tac.] APICIUS