BOOK IX. SEAFOOD

_Lib. IX. Thalassa_ CHAP. I. SHELLFISH. CHAP. II. RAY. CHAP. III. CALAMARY. CHAP. IV. CUTTLEFISH. CHAP. V. POLYPUS. CHAP. VI. OYSTERS. CHAP. VII. ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES. CHAP. VIII. SEA URCHIN. CHAP. IX. MUSSELS. CHAP. X. SARDINES. CHAP. XI. FISH SAUCES. CHAP. XII. BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW. I SHELLFISH _IN LOCUSTA_ [397] SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH _IUS IN LOCUSTA ET CAPPARI_ [1] CHOPPED SCALLIONS FRIED LIGHTLY, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; WHILE BOILING ADD MUSTARD. [1] _locusta_, spiny lobster; Fr. _langouste_; G.-V. _capparus_; not clear, (_cammarus_, a crab); List. _carabus_--long-tailed lobster or crab, the _cancer cursor_ of Linnæus, according to Beckmann; mentioned by Plinius. [398] BROILED LOBSTER _LOCUSTAS ASSAS_ MAKES THUS: IF BROILED, THEY SHOULD APPEAR IN THEIR SHELL; [which is opened by splitting the live lobster in two] SEASON WITH PEPPER SAUCE AND CORIANDER SAUCE [moisten with oil] AND BROIL THEM ON THE GRILL. WHEN THEY ARE DRY [1] KEEP ON BASTING THEM MORE AND MORE [with oil or butter] UNTIL THEY ARE PROPERLY BROILED [2]. [1] i.e. when the soft jelly-like meat has congealed. [2] Same procedure as today. [399] BOILED LOBSTER WITH CUMIN SAUCE [1] _LOCUSTAM ELIXAM CUM CUMINATO_ REAL BOILED LOBSTER IS COOKED WITH CUMIN SAUCE [essence] AND, BY RIGHT, THROW IN SOME [whole] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE WHOLE CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND, IF YOU LIKE, ADD SOME [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [3]. [1] Cumin, mustard and other spices similar to the above are used for cooking crawfish today. [2] Sentence ex Tor. wanting in other texts. [3] Malabathrum, aromatic leaves of an Indian tree; according to Plinius the _laurus cassia_--wild cinnamon. [400] ANOTHER LOBSTER DISH--MINCE OF THE TAIL MEAT _ALITER LOCUSTAM--ISICIA DE CAUDA EIUS SIC FACIES_ HAVE LEAVES READY [in which to wrap the mince croquettes] BOIL [the lobster] TAKE THE CLUSTER OF SPAWN [from under the female's tail, and the coral of the male] THEREUPON CUT FINE THE [boiled] MEAT OF THE TAIL, AND WITH BROTH AND PEPPER AND THE EGGS MAKE THE CROQUETTES [and fry]. It is understood that hen eggs are added to bind the mince. [401] BOILED LOBSTER _IN LOCUSTA ELIXA_ PEPPER, CUMIN, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. [402] ANOTHER LOBSTER PREPARATION _ALITER IN LOCUSTA_ FOR LOBSTER LET US PROPERLY EMPLOY [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, MINT, RUE, NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND WINE. [1] Tor. _rectè adhibemus_, sentence not in the other texts. II RAY, SKATE _IN TORPEDINE_ [1] [403] [A Sauce for] RAY _IN TORPEDINE_ CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, SHALLOTS, [adding] HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE WINE, ALSO A FEW DROPS OF OIL; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX. [1] _torpedo_; the _raia torpedo_ of Linnæus; a ray or skate. [404] BOILED RAY _IN TORPEDINE ELIXA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, MINT, ORIGANY, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE. WINE, AND OIL. IF YOU WISH, ADD MUSTARD AND VINEGAR, OR, IF DESIRED RICHER, ADD RAISINS. This appears to be a sauce to be poured over the boiled ray. Today the ray is boiled in water seasoned strongly and with similar ingredients. When done, the fish is allowed to cool in this water; the edible parts are then removed, the water drained from the meat, which is tossed in sizzling brown butter with lemon juice, vinegar and capers. This is _raie au beurre noir_, much esteemed on the French seaboards. III CALAMARY _IN LOLIGINE_ [1] [405] CALAMARY IN THE PAN _IN LOLIGINE IN PATINA_ CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, A LITTLE HONEY, BROTH, REDUCED WINE, AND OIL TO TASTE. WHEN COMMENCING TO BOIL, BIND WITH ROUX. [1] Calamary, ink-fish, cuttlefish. Cf. Chap. IV. G.-V. _Lolligine_. [405a] STUFFED CALAMARY [1] _IN LOLIGINE FARSILI_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, CELERY SEED, YOLKS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, AND BIND [2]. [1] Ex List., Sch., and G.-V. Evidently a sauce or dressing. The formula for the forcemeat of the fish is not given here but is found in {Rx} No. 406--stuffed Sepia, a fish akin to the calamary. IV SEPIA, CUTTLEFISH _IN SEPIIS_ [406] STUFFED SEPIA _IN SEPIA FARSILI_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CARRAWAY, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, BASIC CONDIMENTS [1] HEAT [in water] THROW IN THE CUTTLEFISH; [when done] SPLIT, THEN STUFF THE CUTTLEFISH [2] WITH [the following forcemeat] BOILED BRAINS, THE STRINGS AND SKIN REMOVED, POUND WITH PEPPER, MIX IN RAW EGGS UNTIL IT IS PLENTY. WHOLE PEPPER [to be added]. TIE [the filled dish] INTO LITTLE BUNDLES [of linen] AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT UNTIL THE FORCEMEAT IS PROPERLY COOKED. [1] _Condimenta coctiva_--salt, herbs, roots. [2] G.-V. treat this as a separate formula. [407] BOILED CUTTLEFISH [1] _SEPIAS ELIXAS AB AHENO_ [2] ARE PLACED IN A COPPER KETTLE WITH COLD [WATER] AND PEPPER, LASER, BROTH, NUTS, EGGS, AND [any other] SEASONING YOU MAY WISH. [1] List. connects this article with the foregoing. [2] Tor. _aheno_ for copper kettle; List. _amylo_. [408] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK CUTTLEFISH _ALITER SEPIAS_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN CORIANDER, DRY MINT, YOLKS, HONEY, BROTH, WINE, VINEGAR, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX. V POLYPUS [1] _IN POLYPO_ [409] POLYPUS _IN POLYPO_ [cook with] PEPPER, LOVAGE, BROTH, LASER, GINGER [2] AND SERVE. [1] The polypus, or eight-armed sepia, has been described by Plinius, Galen, Cicero, Diocles, Athenæus and other ancient writers. The ancients praise it as a food and attribute to the polypus the power of restoring lost vitality: _molli carne pisces, & suaves gustu sunt, & ad venerem conferunt_--Diocles. Wanting in the Vat. Ms. [2] Wanting in List. and G.-V. Ex Tor. p. 100. VI OYSTERS _IN OSTREIS_ [410] OYSTERS [1] _IN OSTREIS_ TO OYSTERS WHICH WANT TO BE WELL SEASONED ADD [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, YOLKS, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, AND WINE; IF YOU WISH ALSO ADD HONEY [3]. [1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in the other texts. [3] Cf. No. 14 for the keeping of oysters. It is not likely that the oysters brought from Great Britain to Rome were in a condition to be enjoyed from the shell--raw. The above formula appears to be a sort of oyster stew. VII [411] ALL KINDS OF BIVALVES _IN OMNE GENUS CONCHYLIORUM_ [1] FOR ALL KINDS OF SHELLFISH USE PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, A LITTLE MORE OF CUMIN, HONEY, AND BROTH; IF YOU WISH, ADD [bay] LEAVES AND MALOBATHRON [2]. [1] Wanting in the Vat. Ms. [2] Cf. note to {Rx} No. 399. The shellfish is cooked or steamed with the above ingredients. VIII SEA URCHINS _IN ECHINO_ [412] SEA URCHIN _IN ECHINO_ TO PREPARE SEA URCHIN TAKE A NEW EARTHEN POT, A LITTLE OIL, BROTH, SWEET WINE, GROUND PEPPER, AND SET IT TO HEAT; WHEN BOILING PUT THE URCHINS IN SINGLY. SHAKE THEM WELL, LET THEM STEW, AND WHEN DONE SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. Plinius states that only a few small parts of the sea urchin are edible. [413] ANOTHER METHOD _ALITER [IN] ECHINO_ PEPPER, A LITTLE COSTMARY, DRY MINT, MEAD, BROTH, INDIAN SPIKENARD, AND [bay or nard] LEAVES. [414] PLAIN BOILED _ALITER_ PUT THE SEA URCHINS SINGLY IN BOILING WATER, COOK, RETIRE, AND PLACE ON A PLATTER. [415] IN CHAFING DISH _IN THERMOSPODIO_ [1] [To the meat of sea urchins, cooked as above, add a sauce made of bay] LEAVES, PEPPER, HONEY, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH EGGS IN THE HOT WATER BATH [2] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] This formula is combined with the preceding in the original. [2] Thermospodium; in this respect resembling seafood à la Newburgh. The thermospodium is an elaborate food and drink heater, used both in the kitchen and in the dining room. Our drawing illustrates an elaborate specimen which was used to prepare dishes such as this one in front of the guests. [416] SALT SEA URCHIN _IN ECHINO SALSO_ [The cooked meat of] SALT SEA URCHIN IS SERVED UP WITH THE BEST [fish] BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND PEPPER TO TASTE. Undoubtedly a commercial article like crabmeat today. The sea urchins were cooked at the fisheries, picked, shells, refuse discarded, the meat salted and marketed. The fish was also salted in the shell as seen in the following: [417] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ TAKE SALT SEA URCHINS, ADD THE BEST BROTH AND TREAT THEM IN A MANNER AS TO LOOK LIKE FRESH THAT HAVE JUST COME OUT OF THE WATER. IX MUSSELS _IN MITULIS_ [1] [418] MUSSELS _IN MITULIS_ BEST [2] BROTH, FINELY CUT LEEKS, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, MUST [3] AND ADD WATER TO MAKE A MIXTURE IN WHICH TO COOK THE MUSSELS. [1] Variously spelled _mytilus_, _mitylus_, _mutulus_, an edible mussel. Tor. and List. _merula_, merling, whiting, Fr. _merlan_. _Merula_ also is a blackbird, which is out of place here. The Vat. Ms. reads _in metulis_. [2] Tor. [3] Tor. _vinum mustum_; List. _v. mixtum_. X SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, MULLET _IN SARDA _[1]_ CORDULA _[2]_ MUGILE_ [3] [419] STUFFED SARDINE _SARDAM FARSILEM_ PROPERLY, OUGHT TO BE TREATED IN THIS MANNER: THE SARDINE IS BONED AND FILLED WITH CRUSHED FLEA-BANE, SEVERAL GRAINS OF PEPPER, MINT, NUTS, DILUTED WITH HONEY, TIED OR SEWED, WRAPPED IN PARCHMENT AND PLACED IN A FLAT DISH ABOVE THE STEAM RISING FROM THE STOVE; SEASON WITH OIL, REDUCED MUST AND ORIGANY [4]. [1] The freshly caught sardine. [2] _Cordyla_, _cordilla_, the young or the fry of tunny. [3] _Mugil_, sea-mullet. [4] Tor. origany; List. _alece_, with brine. [420] ANOTHER PREPARATION OF SARDINES _SARDA ITA FIT_ COOK AND BONE THE SARDINES; FILL WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, ORIGANY, RUE, MOISTENED WITH DATE WINE, HONEY; PLACE ON A DISH, GARNISH WITH CUT HARD EGGS. POUR OVER A LITTLE WINE, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST, AND VIRGIN OIL. [421] SAUCE FOR SARDINES _IUS IN SARDA_ PEPPER, ORIGANY, MINT, ONIONS, A LITTLE VINEGAR, AND OIL. Resembling our _vinaigrette_. [422] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SARDINES [1] _IUS ALIUD IN SARDA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT [2] COOKED, ONION [chopped], HONEY, VINEGAR, DILUTE WITH OIL, SPRINKLE WITH CHOPPED HARD EGGS. [1] Another _Vinaigrette_. [2] Tac. and Tor. _mentam aridam coctam_, dry mint cooked, which is reasonable, to soften it. Hum., G.-V. dry mint, cooked onion; there is no necessity to cook the onion. As a matter of fact, it should be chopped raw in this dressing. The onion is wanting in Tac. and Tor. [423] SAUCE FOR BROILED BABY TUNNY _IUS IN CORDULA ASSA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, RUE, FIGDATE [or its wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE. ALSO SUITABLE FOR SARDINES. [424] SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET _IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONION, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL. [1] Tor. _calva_; G.-V. _calvam_. Does not exist. Hum. _calva legendum puto salvia_. [425] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR SALT SEA-MULLET _ALITER IUS IN MUGILE SALSO_ PEPPER, ORIGANY, ROCKET, MINT, RUE, SAGE [1], DATE WINE, HONEY, OIL, VINEGAR AND MUSTARD. [1] Same as above. XI [1] [426] SAUCE FOR CATFISH, BABY TUNNY AND TUNNY _IUS IN SILURO _[2]_ IN PELAMYDE _[3]_ ET IN THYNNO_ [4] TO MAKE THEM MORE TASTY USE [5] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, ONIONS, MINT, RUE, SAGE [6] DATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD AND OIL. [1] The twelve chapters of Book IX, as shown in the beginning of the text are here increased to fourteen by G.-V., to wit, XII, _IUS IN MULLO TARICHO_ and XIII, _SALSUM SINE SALSO_, but these are more properly included in the above chapter XI, as does Tor. All of the above fish were salt, and probably were important commercial articles. The _silurus_, for instance, is best in the river Danube in the Balkans, while the red mullet, as seen in {Rx} No. 427 came from the sea of Galilee. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149. [2] _Silurus_, probably the sly silurus, or sheatfish, in the U. S. called horn-pout--a large catfish. [3] _Pelamis_, a tunny before it is a year old. [4] Tunny, Tunafish. [5] Tor. wanting in the others. [6] Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 424. XII [427] SAUCE FOR SALT RED MULLET _IUS IN MULLO _[1]_ TARICHO_ [2] IF IN NEED OF CONDIMENTS USE [3] PEPPER, RUE, ONIONS, DATES, GROUND MUSTARD; MIX ALL WITH [flaked meat of] SEA URCHINS, MOISTEN WITH OIL, AND POUR OVER THE FISH WHICH IS EITHER FRIED OR BROILED, OMITTING SALT [4]. [1] Tor. _mulo_, the red sur-mullet--a very esteemed fish. [2] Tarichea, town of Galilee, on the sea of Galilee. Salt mullet as prepared at Tarichea was known as _Tarichus_. This became finally a generic name for all kinds of salt fish, whether coming from Tarichea or from elsewhere. We have an interesting analogy in "Finnan Haddie," smoked Haddock from Findon, Scotland, corrupted into "Finnan," and now used for any kind of smoked Haddock. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 144, 149. [3] Tor. Quite correctly, he questions the need of condiments for salt fish. [4] List. uses this last sentence as the title for the next formula, implying that more salt be added to the salt fish; Tor. is explicit in saying that no salt be added which of course, is correct. XIII ANOTHER WAY, WITHOUT SALT [PORK?] _ALITER, SINE SALSO_ [1] [428] FISH LIVER PUDDING _SALSUM, SINE SALSO_ [2] COOK THE LIVER [of the mullet] CRUSH [3] AND ADD PEPPER, EITHER BROTH OR SALT [4] ADD OIL, LIVER OF HARE, OR OF LAMB [5] OR OF CHICKEN, AND, IF YOU LIKE, PRESS INTO A FISH MOULD [6] [unmould, after baking] SPRINKLE WITH VIRGIN OIL [7]. [1] Tor. [2] G.-V. plainly, a contradiction. The possible meaning may be, "Salt Fish, without salt pork" as salt fish is frequently served with bacon. [3] Dann. Crush the liver, which is probably correct. A paste or forcemeat of the livers and fish were made. [4] The addition of salt would be superfluous if the liver of salt meat is used, excepting if the liver of hare, etc., predominated. [5] G.-V. or liver of kid, wanting in Tor. [6] Such fish-shape moulds existed, made of bronze, artistically finished, same as we possess them today; such moulds were made in various styles and shapes. Cf. {Rx} No. 384. [7] This is an attempt to make a "fish" of livers, not so much with the intention to deceive as to utilize the livers in an attractive way. A very nutritious dish and a most ingenious device, requiring much skill. This is another good example of Roman cookery, far from being extravagant as it is reputed to be, it is economical and clever, and shows ingenuity in the utilization of good things which are often discarded as worthless. [429] ANOTHER WAY, FOR A CHANGE! _ALITER VICEM GERENS SALSI_ [1] CUMIN, PEPPER, BROTH, WHICH CRUSH, ADDING A LITTLE RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED WINE, AND A QUANTITY OF CRUSHED NUTS. MIX EVERYTHING WELL, INCORPORATE WITH THE SALT [2] [fish]; MIX IN A LITTLE OIL AND SERVE. [1] G.-V. _Alter vice salsi_. [2] Tor. _& salibus imbue_; List. _& salsa redde_. There is no sense to Lister's version, nor can we accept G.-V. who have _et salari defundes_. [430] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER SALSUM IN _[1]_ SALSO_ TAKE AS MUCH CUMIN AS YOUR FIVE FINGERS WILL HOLD; CRUSH HALF OF THAT QUANTITY OF PEPPER AND ONE PIECE OF PEELED GARLIC, MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND MIX IN A LITTLE OIL. THIS WILL CORRECT AND BENEFIT A SOUR STOMACH AND PROMOTE DIGESTION [2]. [1] Tor., G.-V. _sine_. [2] The title has reference to salt fish or salt pork; but the formula obviously is of a medicinal character and has no place here. XII [XIV] [431] BAIAN SEAFOOD STEW _EMBRACTUM _[1]_ BAIANUM_ [2] MINCED [poached] OYSTERS, MUSSELS [3] [or scallops] AND SEA NETTLES PUT IN A SAUCE PAN WITH TOASTED NUTS, RUE, CELERY, PEPPER, CORIANDER, CUMIN, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE AND OIL. [1] List. _emphractum_--a caudle, a stew. Seafood stews of this sort are very popular in the South of Europe, the most famous among them being the _Bouillabaisse_ of Marseilles. [2] Baiæ, a very popular seaside resort of the ancients located in the bay of Naples. The stew was named after the place. Horace liked the place but Seneca warned against it. [3] Tor. _spondylos_; List. _sphondylos_--scallops. Both terms, if used in connection with the shellfish are correct. Lister in several places confuses this term with _spongiolus_--mushroom. This instance is the final vindication of Torinus, whose correctness was maintained in {Rx} Nos. 41, 47, 115, _seq._; 120, 121, 183, 309, _seq._ END OF BOOK IX [1] _EXPLICIT APICII THALASSA LIBER NONUS_ [2] [1] It appears to us that Book IX and the following,