Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome by Apicius

BOOK VIII. QUADRUPEDS

3751 words  |  Chapter 20

_Lib. VIII. Tetrapus_ CHAP. I. WILD BOAR. CHAP. II. VENISON. CHAP. III. CHAMOIS, GAZELLE. CHAP. IV. WILD SHEEP. CHAP. V. BEEF AND VEAL. CHAP. VI. KID AND LAMB. CHAP. VII. PIG. CHAP. VIII. HARE. CHAP. IX. DORMOUSE. I [329] WILD BOAR IS PREPARED THUS _APER ITA CONDITUR_ IT IS CLEANED; SPRINKLED WITH SALT AND CRUSHED CUMIN AND THUS LEFT. THE NEXT DAY IT IS PUT INTO THE OVEN; WHEN DONE SEASON WITH CRUSHED PEPPER. A SAUCE FOR BOAR: HONEY [1] BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE. [1] Lan., Tor. _vel_ instead of _mel_. [330] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE BOAR _ALITER IN APRO_ YOU BOIL THE BOAR IN SEA WATER WITH SPRIGS OF LAUREL; WHEN DONE NICE AND SOFT, REMOVE THE SKIN, SERVE WITH SALT, MUSTARD, VINEGAR. [331] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK [sauce for] BOAR _ALITER IN APRO_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDLESS MYRTLE BERRIES, CORIANDER, ONIONS; ADD HONEY, WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. THE BOAR ROASTED IN THE OVEN, IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE, WHICH YOU MAY USE FOR ANY KIND OF ROAST GAME [1]. [1] Tor. continues without interruption. [332] MAKE A HOT SAUCE FOR ROAST BOAR THUS _JURA FERVENTIA IN APRUM ASSUM FACIES SIC_ [1] CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, SATURY, SAFFRON, TOASTED NUTS, OR TOASTED ALMONDS, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND A LITTLE OIL. [1] Tor. _In aprum uerò assum_, indicating, perhaps, that ordinary pork also was prepared "boar style." Cf. {Rx} No. 362. [333] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR BOAR _ALITER IN APRUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, TOASTED NUTS, WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN THE SIMPLE BROTH [1] IS BOILING INCORPORATE THE CRUSHED THINGS AND STIR WITH AN AROMATIC BOUQUET OF ONIONS AND RUE. IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE THIS A RICHER SAUCE, TIE IT WITH WHITES OF EGG, STIRRING THE LIQUID EGG IN GENTLY. SPRINKLE WITH A LITTLE PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] Presumably the broth or stock in which the meat was roasted or braised. [334] SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR _IUS IN APRUM ELIXUM_ REAL SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR IS COMPOSED IN THIS MANNER [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [335] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR [1] _IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_ PEPPER, CUMIN, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CORIANDER SEED, DILL SEED, CELERY SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE ONION, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD, BROTH AND OIL. [1] {Rx} No. 336 precedes this formula in Tor. [336] ANOTHER COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR _ALITER IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE SILPHIUM, RATHER MORE MUSTARD SEED, ADD PURE WINE, SOME GREEN HERBS, A LITTLE ONION, CRUSHED NUTS FROM THE PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, SOME MORE PURE WINE, COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST [and add] BROTH AND OIL [1]. [1] Strongly resembling our _vinaigrette_. [337] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOAR _ALITER [ius] IN APRO_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, CUMIN, FENNEL SEED, RUE, BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE; HEAT, WHEN DONE TIE WITH ROUX; COVER THE MEAT WITH THIS SAUCE SO AS TO PENETRATE THE MEAT AND SERVE. [338] SHOULDER OF BOAR IS STUFFED IN THIS MANNER _PERNA APRUNA ITA IMPLETUR_ [1] LOOSEN THE MEAT FROM THE BONES BY MEANS OF A WOODEN STICK IN ORDER TO FILL THE CAVITY LEFT BY THE BONES WITH DRESSING WHICH IS INTRODUCED THROUGH A FUNNEL. [The dressing season with] CRUSHED PEPPER, LAUREL BERRIES AND RUE; IF YOU LIKE, ADD LASER, THE BEST KIND OF BROTH, REDUCED MUST AND SPRINKLE WITH FRESH OIL. WHEN THE FILLING IS DONE, TIE THE PARTS THUS STUFFED IN LINEN, PLACE THEM IN THE STOCK POT IN WHICH THEY ARE TO BE COOKED AND BOIL THEM IN SEA WATER, WITH A SPRIG OF LAUREL AND DILL [2]. [1] G.-V. _Terentina_, referring to a place in the Campus Martius, where the _ludi seculares_ were celebrated. Tor. _recentia_, fresh. [2] The dressing consisted principally of pork or veal pounded fine, seasoned as directed above, and tied with eggs, as is often prescribed by Apicius. To verify how little high class cookery methods have changed consult one of the foremost of modern authorities, Auguste Escoffier, of the Carlton and Ritz hotels, London and Paris, who in his "Guide Culinaire" presents this dish under its ancient Italian name of _Zampino_. II VENISON [Stag] _IN CERVO_ [339] SAUCE FOR STAG _IUS IN CERVUM_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY [1] ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, FENNEL SEED, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE [2] RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE COOKED MEAT IMMERSE IN THIS SAUCE [braise] TO PENETRATE AND TO SOFTEN, AND SERVE. FOR BROAD HORN DEER AS WELL AS FOR OTHER VENISON FOLLOW SIMILAR METHODS AND USE THE SAME CONDIMENTS. [1] Tor. _carenum_; Hum. _legendum: careum_. [2] Wanting in Tor. [340] ANOTHER WAY [1] _ALITER_ PARBOIL AND BRAISE THE VENISON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND POUR OVER THE ROAST. [1] Tor. Another little sauce for venison. [341] VENISON SAUCE _IUS IN CERVO_ MIX PEPPER, LOVAGE, ONION, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, BROTH, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, OIL [1]. [1] Resembling a _vinaigrette_, except for the nuts and dates. [342] PREPARATION OF VENISON _CERVINÆ CONDITURA_ PEPPER, CUMIN, CONDIMENTS, PARSLEY, ONION, RUE, HONEY, BROTH, MINT, RAISIN WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX WHEN BOILING. [343] HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON _IURA FERVENTIA IN CERVO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CUMIN, TOASTED NUTS OR ALMONDS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, A LITTLE OIL; ADD BROTH AND STIR WELL. [344] MARINADE FOR ROAST VENISON _EMBAMMA [1] IN CERVINAM ASSAM_ PEPPER, NARD LEAVES, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, ADD DATES, RAISINS AND OIL. [1] Tor. _Intinctus_, same; a _marinade_, a pickle or sauce in which to preserve or to flavor raw meat or fish. [345] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON _ALITER IN CERVUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; STIR WITH A FAGOT OF LEEKS AND SATURY [1]. [1] A fagot of herbs; regarding this method of flavoring. Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 277 _seq._ A sauce resembling our Cumberland, very popular with venison which is sweetened with currant jelly instead of the above prunes. III CHAMOIS, GAZELLE _IN CAPREA_ [346] SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT _IUS IN CAPREA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE SEED, HONEY, MUSTARD, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL. [347] SAUCE FOR ROAST WILD GOAT _IUS IN CAPREA ASSA_ PEPPER, HERBS, RUE, ONION, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL, BIND WITH ROUX. [347a] STILL ANOTHER _ALITER_ AS ABOVE IS MADE WITH PARSLEY AND MARJORAM [1]. [1] Wanting in G.-V. [347b] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT _ALITER IUS IN CAPREA_ PEPPER, SPICES, PARSLEY, A LITTLE ORIGANY, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, RAISIN WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX [1]. [1] Wanting in Tor. IV WILD SHEEP _IN OVIFERO (HOC EST OVIS SILVATICA)_ [1] [348] SAUCE FOR MOUNTAIN SHEEP _IUS IN OVIFERO FERVENS_ [THAT IS, (ROAST) THE MEAT, PREPARE A SAUCE OF] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DRY MINT [3], THYME, SILPHIUM, MOISTEN WITH WINE, ADD STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE,--ENOUGH TO COLOR--AND STIR WITH A WHIP OF ORIGANY AND DRY MINT [3]. [1] G.-V., List. _in ovi fero_; Dann. "wild eggs," i.e., the eggs of game birds, and he comes to the conclusion that game birds themselves are meant to be used in this formula, as no reference to "eggs" is made. There can be no doubt but what this formula deals with the preparation of sheep; Torinus says expressly: _oviferum, hoc est, carnem ovis sylvestris_--the meat of sheep from the woods, mountain sheep. _Ferum_ is "wild," "game," but it also means "pregnant." For this double sense the formula may be interpreted as dealing with either wild sheep, or with pregnant sheep, or, more probably, with unborn baby lamb, which in antiquity as today is often killed principally for its skin. [2] Tor. [3] Mint is still associated with lamb; the above sauce appears to be merely an elaborate Roman ancestor of our modern mint sauce, served with lamb, the chief ingredients of which are mint, vinegar and sugar, served both hot and cold. [349] SAUCE FOR ALL KINDS OF GAME, BOILED OR ROAST _IUS IN VENATIONIBUS OMNIBUS ELIXIS ET ASSIS_ [1] 8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, RUE, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, JUNIPER, THYME, DRY MINT, 6 SCRUPLES IN WEIGHT [each] 3 SCRUPLES OF FLEA-BANE; REDUCE ALL THIS TO THE FINEST POWDER, PUT IT TOGETHER IN A VESSEL WITH SUFFICIENT HONEY AND USE IT WITH VINEGAR AND GARUM. [1] Tor. _Jusculum omni venationi competens_. [350] COLD SAUCE FOR WILD SHEEP _IUS FRIGIDUM IN OVIFERO_ [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CUMIN, CRUSHED TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, AND OIL; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER. [1] List. _omni fero_; which Dann. interprets, "All kind of game." Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 348. V BEEF OR VEAL _BUBULA SIVE VITELLINA_ [351] VEAL STEAK _VITELLINA FRICTA_ [1] [FOR A SAUCE WITH FRIED BEEF OR VEAL TAKE] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONION, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, OIL, AND REDUCED MUST. [1] Evidently a beef or veal steak _sauté_. Beef did not figure very heavily on the dietary of the ancients in contrasts to present modes which make beef the most important meat, culinarily speaking. The above sauce, save for the raisins and the honey, resembles the modern _Bordelaise_, often served with beef steaks _sauté_, in contrast to the grilled steaks which are served with _maître d'hôtel_ butter. [352] VEAL OR BEEF WITH LEEKS _VITULINAM [1] SIVE BULULAM CUM PORRIS_ [or] WITH QUINCES [2] OR WITH ONIONS, OR WITH DASHEENS [3] [use] BROTH, PEPPER, LASER AND A LITTLE OIL. [1] G.-V. same as _vitellinam_. [2] Tor. _cydoniis_; List. _succidaneis_. [3] Cf. {Rx} No. 332 _et al._ [353] FRICASSÉE OF VEAL _IN VITULINAM ELIXAM_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND COVER THE MEAT. [354] ANOTHER VEAL FRICASSÉE _ALITER IN VITULINA EXLIXA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD AND OIL. VI KID OR LAMB _IN HÆDO VEL AGNO_ [355] DAINTY DISHES OF KID OR OF LAMB _COPADIA HÆDINA SIVE AGNINA_ COOK WITH PEPPER AND BROTH, ALSO WITH VARIOUS ORDINARY BEANS [1] BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER, CUMIN, DUMPLINGS [2] AND A LITTLE OIL [3]. [1] _cum faseolis_, green string beans. [2] Tor. _imbrato_; G.-V. _inbracto_, broken bread, regular dumplings. [3] Lamb and beans is a favorite combination, as in the French _haricot_, made with white beans, or boiled lamb with fresh string beans, quite a modern dish. Torinus omits the cumin, which is quite characteristic. [356] ANOTHER LAMB STEW _ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_ PUT [pieces of] KID OR LAMB IN THE STEW POT WITH CHOPPED ONION AND CORIANDER. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, AND COOK WITH BROTH OIL AND WINE. PUT IN A DISH AND TIE WITH ROUX [1]. [1] It appears that the binding should be done before the stew is dished out; but this sentence illustrates the consummate art of Apicius. The good cook carefully separates the meat (as it is cooked) from the sauce, eliminates impurities, binds and strains it and puts the meat back into the finished sauce. This is the ideal way of making a stew which evidently was known to Apicius. [357] ANOTHER LAMB STEW _ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_ ADD TO THE PARBOILED MEAT THE RAW HERBS THAT HAVE BEEN CRUSHED IN THE MORTAR AND COOK IT. GOAT MEAT IS COOKED LIKEWISE. [358] BROILED KID OR LAMB STEAK _HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_ KID AFTER BEING COOKED IN BROTH AND OIL IS SLICED AND MARINATED [1] WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LASER, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. IT IS THEN GRILLED ON THE BROILER AND SERVED WITH GRAVY. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE UP. [1] The marinade is used to make the gravy. [359] ROAST KID OR LAMB _ALITER HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_ [LET US ROAST THE KID OR LAMB, ADDING] [1] HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, 6 SCRUPLES OF FOALBIT [2] A LITTLE GINGER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, A LITTLE LASER, A PINT OF BEST BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL [3]. [1] Tor. [2] _Asarum_; Tor. _aseros_; List. _asareos_--the herb foalbit, foalfoot, wild spikenard. [3] Tor. continues without interruption. [360] STUFFED BONED KID OR LAMB _HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_ [1] MILK-FED [2] KID OR LAMB IS CAREFULLY BONED THROUGH THE THROAT SO AS TO CREATE A PAUNCH OR BAG; THE INTESTINES ARE PRESERVED WHOLE IN A MANNER THAT ONE CAN BLOW OR INFLATE THEM AT THE HEAD IN ORDER TO EXPEL THE EXCREMENTS AT THE OTHER END; THE BODY IS WASHED CAREFULLY AND IS FILLED WITH A LIQUID DRESSING. THEREUPON TIE IT CAREFULLY AT THE SHOULDERS, PUT IT INTO THE ROASTING PAN, BASTE WELL. WHEN DONE, BOIL THE GRAVY WITH MILK AND PEPPER, PREVIOUSLY CRUSHED, AND BROTH, REDUCED WINE, A LITTLE REDUCED MUST AND ALSO OIL; AND TO THE BOILING GRAVY ADD ROUX. TO PLAY SAFE PUT THE ROAST IN A NETTING, BAG OR LITTLE BASKET AND CAREFULLY TIE TOGETHER, ADD A LITTLE SALT TO THE BOILING GRAVY. AFTER THIS HAS BOILED WELL THREE TIMES, TAKE THE MEAT OUT, BOIL THE BROTH OVER AGAIN [to reduce it] INCORPORATE WITH THE ABOVE DESCRIBED LIQUOR, ADDING THE NECESSARY SEASONING. [1] "Hollowed out like a pipe." [2] G.-V. _syringiatus_ (_id est mammotestus_). Tor. _mammocestis_. We are guessing. [3] We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a dish were made of lamb today. This article, like the following appears to be a contraction of two different formulæ. [361] STUFFED KID OR LAMB ANOTHER WAY _ALITER HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_ KID OR LAMB IS THUS PREPARED AND SEASONED: TAKE [1] 1 PINT MILK, 4 OUNCES HONEY, 1 OUNCE PEPPER, A LITTLE SALT, A LITTLE LASER, GRAVY [of the lamb] 8 OUNCES CRUSHED DATES, A SPOONFUL OIL, A LITTLE BROTH, A SPOONFUL HONEY [2] A PINT OF GOOD WINE AND A LITTLE ROUX. [1] Tor. [2] G.-V. [362] THE RAW KID OR LAMB [1] _HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS CRUDUS_ IS RUBBED WITH OIL AND PEPPER AND SPRINKLED WITH PLENTY OF CLEAN SALT AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACED IN THE OVEN, SERVED ROAST. [1] It is quite evident that this sentence belongs to the preceding formula; but all the texts make a distinct separation. [363] KID OR LAMB À LA TARPEIUS [1] _HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM TARPEIANUM_ BEFORE COOKING THE LAMB TRUSS IT PROPERLY AND [marinate it in] PEPPER, RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, AND A LITTLE THYME AND BROTH. PLACE THE ROAST IN A PAN WITH OIL, BASTE WELL WHILE IN THE OVEN, WHEN COOKED THOROUGHLY, FILL THE PAN WITH CRUSHED SATURY, ONIONS, RUE, DATES, BROTH, WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND OIL; WHEN THIS GRAVY IS WELL COOKED [strain] PUT IT UP IN A DISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] Tor. _Tatarpeianum_. Tarpeius, family name of Romans. Humelberg thinks this dish is named for the people who dwelled on Mount Tarpeius. This was the Tarpeian Rock from which malefactors were thrown. [364] KID OR LAMB PARTHIAN STYLE _HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM PARTHICUM_ PUT [the roast] IN THE OVEN; CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONION, SATURY, STONED DAMASCUS PLUMS, A LITTLE LASER, WINE, BROTH AND OIL. HOT WINE IS SERVED ON THE SIDE AND TAKEN WITH VINEGAR. [365] CREAMED KID FLAVORED WITH LAUREL [1] _HÆDUM LAUREATUM EX LACTE_ [The kid] DRESS AND PREPARE, BONE, REMOVE THE INTESTINES WITH THE RENNET AND WASH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER ROOT, 2 LAUREL BERRIES, A LITTLE CHAMOMILE AND 2 OR 3 BRAINS, ALL OF WHICH CRUSH. MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND SEASON WITH SALT. OVER THIS MIXTURE STRAIN 2 PINTS [2] OF MILK, 2 LITTLE SPOONS OF HONEY. WITH THIS FORCEMEAT STUFF THE INTESTINES AND WRAP THEM AROUND THE KID. COVER THE ROAST WITH CAUL AND PARCHMENT PAPER TIGHTENED WITH SKEWERS, AND PLACE IT IN THE ROASTING PAN, ADDING BROTH, OIL AND WINE. WHEN HALF DONE, CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH THE ROAST'S OWN GRAVY AND A LITTLE REDUCED MUST; PUT THIS BACK INTO THE PAN AND WHEN THE ROAST IS DONE COMPLETELY GARNISH IT AND BIND [the gravy] WITH ROUX AND SERVE. [1] Dann. thinks _laureatus_ stands for the best, the prize-winning meat, but the laurel may refer to the flavor used. List. remarks that cow's milk was very scarce in Italy; likewise was goat's and sheep's milk; hence it is possible that the kid was cooked with its mother's own milk. [2] pints--_sextarii_. VII PIG _IN PORCELLO_ [366] SUCKLING PIG STUFFED TWO WAYS _PORCELLUM FARSILEM DUOBUS GENERIBUS_ PREPARE, REMOVE THE ENTRAILS BY THE THROAT BEFORE THE CARCASS HARDENS [immediately after killing]. MAKE AN OPENING UNDER THE EAR, FILL AN OX BLADDER WITH TARENTINE [1] SAUSAGE MEAT AND ATTACH A TUBE SUCH AS THE BIRD KEEPER USES TO THE NECK OF THE BLADDER AND SQUEEZE THE DRESSING INTO THE EAR AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE TO FILL THE BODY. THEN SEAL THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT, CLOSE SECURELY [with skewers] AND PREPARE [the roast for the oven]. [1] Tor. _impensam Tarentinam_; G.-V. _Terentinam_. The birdkeeper's tube may be an instrument for the cramming of fowl. [366a] THE OTHER DRESSING IS MADE THUS: CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH A LITTLE BROTH, ADD COOKED BRAINS, RAW EGGS, COOKED SPELT, GRAVY OF THE PIG, SMALL BIRDS (IF ANY) NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SEASON WITH BROTH. STUFF THE PIG, CLOSE THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT AND SKEWERS AND PUT IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, DRESS AND GARNISH VERY NICELY, GLAZE THE BODY AND SERVE. [367] ANOTHER SUCKLING PIG _ALITER PORCELLUM_ SALT, CUMIN, LASER; ADD SAUSAGE MEAT. DILUTE WITH BROTH [1] REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG SO THAT NO PART OF IT REMAINS INSIDE. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD WINE [2] BRAINS, MIX IN 2 EGGS, FILL THE [previously] PARBOILED PIG WITH THIS FORCEMEAT, CLOSE TIGHT, PLACE IN A BASKET AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. WHEN DONE REMOVE THE SKEWERS BUT IN A MANNER THAT THE GRAVY REMAINS INSIDE. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE. [1] G.-V. treats the following as a separate article under the heading of _porcellum liquaminatum_. [2] G.-V. _unum_ (one brain) instead of _uinum_. [368] STUFFED BOILED SUCKLING PIG _PORCELLUM ELIXUM FARSILEM_ REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG. PARBOIL. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD COOKED BRAINS, AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED [1] LIKEWISE DISSOLVE EGGS, [add] BROTH TO TASTE, MAKE A SAUSAGE [of this forcemeat] FILL THE PIG WHICH HAS BEEN PARBOILED AND RINSED WITH BROTH. TIE THE PIG SECURELY IN A BASKET, IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. REMOVE WHEN DONE, WIPE CLEAN CAREFULLY, SERVE WITHOUT PEPPER. [1] To have a forcemeat of the right consistency. [369] ROAST SUCKLING PIG WITH HONEY _PORCELLUM ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM_ [1] EMPTY THE PIG BY THE NECK, CLEAN AND DRY, CRUSH ONE OUNCE PEPPER, HONEY AND WINE, PLACE [this in a sauce pan and] HEAT; NEXT BREAK DRY TOAST [2] AND MIX WITH THE THINGS IN THE SAUCE PAN; STIR WITH A WHIP OF FRESH LAUREL TWIGS [3] SO THAT THE PASTE IS NICE AND SMOOTH UNTIL SUFFICIENTLY COOKED. THIS DRESSING FILL INTO THE PIG, WRAP IN PARCHMENT, PLACE IN THE OVEN [roast slowly, when done, glaze with honey] GARNISH NICELY AND SERVE. [1] treated with honey. [2] Tor. _tactam siccatam_ for _tractam_. [3] Again this very subtle method of flavoring, so often referred to. This time it is a laurel whip. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 277 _seq._, 345, 369, 385. [370] MILK-FED PIG, COLD, APICIAN SAUCE _PORCELLUM LACTE PASTUM ELIXUM CALIDUM IURE FRIGIDO CRUDO APICIANO_ SERVE BOILED MILK-FED PIG EITHER HOT OR COLD WITH THIS SAUCE [1] IN A MORTAR, PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, RUE, AND CRUSH IT. MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD HONEY, WINE AND BROTH. THE BOILED PIG IS WIPED OFF HOT WITH A CLEAN TOWEL, [cooled off] COVERED WITH THE SAUCE AND SERVED [2]. [1] Tor. [2] This sentence wanting in Tor. [371] SUCKLING PIG À LA VITELLIUS [1] _PORCELLUM VITELLIANUM_ SUCKLING PIG CALLED VITELLIAN STYLE IS PREPARED THUS [2] GARNISH THE PIG LIKE WILD BOAR [3] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, ROAST IN OVEN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING VERY LITTLE OIL, HEAT; THE ROASTING PIG BASTE WITH THIS IN A MANNER SO THAT [the aroma] WILL PENETRATE THE SKIN. [1] Named for Vitellius, Roman emperor. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [3] i.e. marinated with raw vegetables, wine, spices, etc. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 329-30. [372] SUCKLING PIG À LA FLACCUS _PORCELLUM FLACCIANUM_ [1] THE PIG IS GARNISHED LIKE WILD BOAR [2] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PLACE IN THE OVEN. WHILE BEING DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, GREEN RUE, AND CRUSH IT, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING A LITTLE OIL, HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX. THE ROAST PIG, FREE FROM BONES, SPRINKLE WITH POWDERED CELERY SEED AND SERVE. [1] List. named for Flaccus Hordeonius, (_puto_). Flaccus was a rather common Roman family name. [2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 371, also {Rx} Nos. 329-30. Lister is thoroughly puzzled by this procedure, but the problem is very simple: just treat the pig like wild boar. [373] SUCKLING PIG, LAUREL FLAVOR _PORCELLUM LAUREATUM_ THE PIG IS BONED AND GARNISHED WITH A LITTLE WINE SAUCE [1] PARBOIL WITH GREEN LAUREL IN THE CENTER [2] AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN TO BE ROASTED SUFFICIENTLY. MEANWHILE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, AND LAUREL BERRIES, CRUSH THEM, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [Put this in a sauce pan and heat] BIND [with roux; untie the pig] REMOVE THE LAUREL LEAVES; INCORPORATE THE JUICE OF THE BONES [from which a gravy has been made in the meantime] AND SERVE. [1] marinate in the ordinary way with _{oe}nogarum_ as the dominant flavor. [2] It is presumed that the boned pig is rolled and tied, with the leaves in the center. [374] SUCKLING PIG À LA FRONTO [1] _PORCELLUM FRONTINIANUM_ BONE THE PIG, PARBOIL, GARNISH; IN A SAUCE PAN. ADD BROTH, WINE, BIND. WHEN HALF DONE, ADD A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL, SOME REDUCED MUST. WHEN COOKED WIPE THE PIG CLEAN, LET IT DRIP OFF; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE. [1] List. Probably named for Julius Fronto, _prætor urbanus_ under Vitellius. Cornelius Fronto was an orator and author at the time of emperor Hadrian. Cf. {Rx} No.