Cookery and Dining in Imperial Rome by Apicius
BOOK VIII. QUADRUPEDS
3751 words | Chapter 20
_Lib. VIII. Tetrapus_
CHAP. I. WILD BOAR.
CHAP. II. VENISON.
CHAP. III. CHAMOIS, GAZELLE.
CHAP. IV. WILD SHEEP.
CHAP. V. BEEF AND VEAL.
CHAP. VI. KID AND LAMB.
CHAP. VII. PIG.
CHAP. VIII. HARE.
CHAP. IX. DORMOUSE.
I
[329] WILD BOAR IS PREPARED THUS
_APER ITA CONDITUR_
IT IS CLEANED; SPRINKLED WITH SALT AND CRUSHED CUMIN AND THUS LEFT.
THE NEXT DAY IT IS PUT INTO THE OVEN; WHEN DONE SEASON WITH CRUSHED
PEPPER. A SAUCE FOR BOAR: HONEY [1] BROTH, REDUCED WINE, RAISIN WINE.
[1] Lan., Tor. _vel_ instead of _mel_.
[330] ANOTHER WAY TO PREPARE BOAR
_ALITER IN APRO_
YOU BOIL THE BOAR IN SEA WATER WITH SPRIGS OF LAUREL; WHEN DONE NICE
AND SOFT, REMOVE THE SKIN, SERVE WITH SALT, MUSTARD, VINEGAR.
[331] ANOTHER WAY TO COOK [sauce for] BOAR
_ALITER IN APRO_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, SEEDLESS MYRTLE BERRIES, CORIANDER,
ONIONS; ADD HONEY, WINE, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH
ROUX. THE BOAR ROASTED IN THE OVEN, IS MASKED WITH THIS SAUCE, WHICH
YOU MAY USE FOR ANY KIND OF ROAST GAME [1].
[1] Tor. continues without interruption.
[332] MAKE A HOT SAUCE FOR ROAST BOAR THUS
_JURA FERVENTIA IN APRUM ASSUM FACIES SIC_ [1]
CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, SATURY, SAFFRON,
TOASTED NUTS, OR TOASTED ALMONDS, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR AND A
LITTLE OIL.
[1] Tor. _In aprum uerò assum_, indicating, perhaps,
that ordinary pork also was prepared "boar style." Cf.
{Rx} No. 362.
[333] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR BOAR
_ALITER IN APRUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, MINT, THYME, TOASTED NUTS, WINE, VINEGAR,
BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. WHEN THE SIMPLE BROTH [1] IS BOILING
INCORPORATE THE CRUSHED THINGS AND STIR WITH AN AROMATIC BOUQUET OF
ONIONS AND RUE. IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE THIS A RICHER SAUCE, TIE IT WITH
WHITES OF EGG, STIRRING THE LIQUID EGG IN GENTLY. SPRINKLE WITH A
LITTLE PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Presumably the broth or stock in which the meat was
roasted or braised.
[334] SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR
_IUS IN APRUM ELIXUM_
REAL SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR IS COMPOSED IN THIS MANNER [1] PEPPER,
LOVAGE, CUMIN, SILPHIUM, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, VINEGAR,
BROTH AND OIL.
[1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[335] COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR [1]
_IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_
PEPPER, CUMIN, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CORIANDER SEED, DILL SEED, CELERY
SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE ONION, HONEY, VINEGAR, MUSTARD, BROTH AND
OIL.
[1] {Rx} No. 336 precedes this formula in Tor.
[336] ANOTHER COLD SAUCE FOR BOILED BOAR
_ALITER IUS FRIGIDUM IN APRUM ELIXUM_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, DILL SEED, THYME, ORIGANY, LITTLE SILPHIUM,
RATHER MORE MUSTARD SEED, ADD PURE WINE, SOME GREEN HERBS, A LITTLE
ONION, CRUSHED NUTS FROM THE PONTUS, OR ALMONDS, DATES, HONEY,
VINEGAR, SOME MORE PURE WINE, COLOR WITH REDUCED MUST [and add] BROTH
AND OIL [1].
[1] Strongly resembling our _vinaigrette_.
[337] ANOTHER [sauce] FOR BOAR
_ALITER [ius] IN APRO_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, CUMIN, FENNEL
SEED, RUE, BROTH, WINE, RAISIN WINE; HEAT, WHEN DONE TIE WITH ROUX;
COVER THE MEAT WITH THIS SAUCE SO AS TO PENETRATE THE MEAT AND SERVE.
[338] SHOULDER OF BOAR IS STUFFED IN THIS MANNER
_PERNA APRUNA ITA IMPLETUR_ [1]
LOOSEN THE MEAT FROM THE BONES BY MEANS OF A WOODEN STICK IN ORDER TO
FILL THE CAVITY LEFT BY THE BONES WITH DRESSING WHICH IS INTRODUCED
THROUGH A FUNNEL. [The dressing season with] CRUSHED PEPPER, LAUREL
BERRIES AND RUE; IF YOU LIKE, ADD LASER, THE BEST KIND OF BROTH,
REDUCED MUST AND SPRINKLE WITH FRESH OIL. WHEN THE FILLING IS DONE,
TIE THE PARTS THUS STUFFED IN LINEN, PLACE THEM IN THE STOCK POT IN
WHICH THEY ARE TO BE COOKED AND BOIL THEM IN SEA WATER, WITH A SPRIG
OF LAUREL AND DILL [2].
[1] G.-V. _Terentina_, referring to a place in the
Campus Martius, where the _ludi seculares_ were
celebrated. Tor. _recentia_, fresh.
[2] The dressing consisted principally of pork or veal
pounded fine, seasoned as directed above, and tied with
eggs, as is often prescribed by Apicius.
To verify how little high class cookery methods have
changed consult one of the foremost of modern
authorities, Auguste Escoffier, of the Carlton and Ritz
hotels, London and Paris, who in his "Guide Culinaire"
presents this dish under its ancient Italian name of
_Zampino_.
II
VENISON [Stag]
_IN CERVO_
[339] SAUCE FOR STAG
_IUS IN CERVUM_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY [1] ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT,
FENNEL SEED, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE [2] RAISIN WINE AND A LITTLE
OIL. WHEN BOILING BIND WITH ROUX; THE COOKED MEAT IMMERSE IN THIS
SAUCE [braise] TO PENETRATE AND TO SOFTEN, AND SERVE. FOR BROAD HORN
DEER AS WELL AS FOR OTHER VENISON FOLLOW SIMILAR METHODS AND USE THE
SAME CONDIMENTS.
[1] Tor. _carenum_; Hum. _legendum: careum_.
[2] Wanting in Tor.
[340] ANOTHER WAY [1]
_ALITER_
PARBOIL AND BRAISE THE VENISON. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY
SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX
AND POUR OVER THE ROAST.
[1] Tor. Another little sauce for venison.
[341] VENISON SAUCE
_IUS IN CERVO_
MIX PEPPER, LOVAGE, ONION, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, BROTH,
MUSTARD, VINEGAR, OIL [1].
[1] Resembling a _vinaigrette_, except for the nuts and
dates.
[342] PREPARATION OF VENISON
_CERVINÆ CONDITURA_
PEPPER, CUMIN, CONDIMENTS, PARSLEY, ONION, RUE, HONEY, BROTH, MINT,
RAISIN WINE, REDUCED WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX WHEN
BOILING.
[343] HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON
_IURA FERVENTIA IN CERVO_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, CUMIN, TOASTED NUTS OR ALMONDS, HONEY,
VINEGAR, WINE, A LITTLE OIL; ADD BROTH AND STIR WELL.
[344] MARINADE FOR ROAST VENISON
_EMBAMMA [1] IN CERVINAM ASSAM_
PEPPER, NARD LEAVES, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, GREEN RUE, HONEY,
VINEGAR, BROTH, ADD DATES, RAISINS AND OIL.
[1] Tor. _Intinctus_, same; a _marinade_, a pickle or
sauce in which to preserve or to flavor raw meat or
fish.
[345] ANOTHER HOT SAUCE FOR VENISON
_ALITER IN CERVUM ASSUM IURA FERVENTIA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, STEWED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR,
BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; STIR WITH A FAGOT OF LEEKS AND SATURY [1].
[1] A fagot of herbs; regarding this method of
flavoring. Cf. notes to {Rx} No. 277 _seq._
A sauce resembling our Cumberland, very popular with
venison which is sweetened with currant jelly instead of
the above prunes.
III
CHAMOIS, GAZELLE
_IN CAPREA_
[346] SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT
_IUS IN CAPREA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CUMIN, PARSLEY, RUE SEED, HONEY, MUSTARD,
VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL.
[347] SAUCE FOR ROAST WILD GOAT
_IUS IN CAPREA ASSA_
PEPPER, HERBS, RUE, ONION, HONEY, BROTH, RAISIN WINE, A LITTLE OIL,
BIND WITH ROUX.
[347a] STILL ANOTHER
_ALITER_
AS ABOVE IS MADE WITH PARSLEY AND MARJORAM [1].
[1] Wanting in G.-V.
[347b] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR WILD GOAT
_ALITER IUS IN CAPREA_
PEPPER, SPICES, PARSLEY, A LITTLE ORIGANY, RUE, BROTH, HONEY, RAISIN
WINE, AND A LITTLE OIL; BIND WITH ROUX [1].
[1] Wanting in Tor.
IV
WILD SHEEP
_IN OVIFERO (HOC EST OVIS SILVATICA)_ [1]
[348] SAUCE FOR MOUNTAIN SHEEP
_IUS IN OVIFERO FERVENS_
[THAT IS, (ROAST) THE MEAT, PREPARE A SAUCE OF] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE,
CUMIN, DRY MINT [3], THYME, SILPHIUM, MOISTEN WITH WINE, ADD STEWED
DAMASCUS PRUNES, HONEY, WINE, BROTH, VINEGAR, RAISIN WINE,--ENOUGH TO
COLOR--AND STIR WITH A WHIP OF ORIGANY AND DRY MINT [3].
[1] G.-V., List. _in ovi fero_; Dann. "wild eggs," i.e.,
the eggs of game birds, and he comes to the conclusion
that game birds themselves are meant to be used in this
formula, as no reference to "eggs" is made.
There can be no doubt but what this formula deals with
the preparation of sheep; Torinus says expressly:
_oviferum, hoc est, carnem ovis sylvestris_--the meat of
sheep from the woods, mountain sheep. _Ferum_ is "wild,"
"game," but it also means "pregnant." For this double
sense the formula may be interpreted as dealing with
either wild sheep, or with pregnant sheep, or, more
probably, with unborn baby lamb, which in antiquity as
today is often killed principally for its skin.
[2] Tor.
[3] Mint is still associated with lamb; the above sauce
appears to be merely an elaborate Roman ancestor of our
modern mint sauce, served with lamb, the chief
ingredients of which are mint, vinegar and sugar, served
both hot and cold.
[349] SAUCE FOR ALL KINDS OF GAME, BOILED OR ROAST
_IUS IN VENATIONIBUS OMNIBUS ELIXIS ET ASSIS_ [1]
8 SCRUPLES OF PEPPER, RUE, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, JUNIPER, THYME, DRY
MINT, 6 SCRUPLES IN WEIGHT [each] 3 SCRUPLES OF FLEA-BANE; REDUCE ALL
THIS TO THE FINEST POWDER, PUT IT TOGETHER IN A VESSEL WITH SUFFICIENT
HONEY AND USE IT WITH VINEGAR AND GARUM.
[1] Tor. _Jusculum omni venationi competens_.
[350] COLD SAUCE FOR WILD SHEEP
_IUS FRIGIDUM IN OVIFERO_ [1]
PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CUMIN, CRUSHED TOASTED NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR,
BROTH, AND OIL; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER.
[1] List. _omni fero_; which Dann. interprets, "All kind
of game." Cf. note 1 to {Rx} No. 348.
V
BEEF OR VEAL
_BUBULA SIVE VITELLINA_
[351] VEAL STEAK
_VITELLINA FRICTA_ [1]
[FOR A SAUCE WITH FRIED BEEF OR VEAL TAKE] [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY
SEED, CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONION, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH,
OIL, AND REDUCED MUST.
[1] Evidently a beef or veal steak _sauté_. Beef did not
figure very heavily on the dietary of the ancients in
contrasts to present modes which make beef the most
important meat, culinarily speaking. The above sauce,
save for the raisins and the honey, resembles the modern
_Bordelaise_, often served with beef steaks _sauté_, in
contrast to the grilled steaks which are served with
_maître d'hôtel_ butter.
[352] VEAL OR BEEF WITH LEEKS
_VITULINAM [1] SIVE BULULAM CUM PORRIS_
[or] WITH QUINCES [2] OR WITH ONIONS, OR WITH DASHEENS [3] [use]
BROTH, PEPPER, LASER AND A LITTLE OIL.
[1] G.-V. same as _vitellinam_.
[2] Tor. _cydoniis_; List. _succidaneis_.
[3] Cf. {Rx} No. 332 _et al._
[353] FRICASSÉE OF VEAL
_IN VITULINAM ELIXAM_
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, MOISTEN WITH HONEY,
VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX AND COVER THE MEAT.
[354] ANOTHER VEAL FRICASSÉE
_ALITER IN VITULINA EXLIXA_
PEPPER, LOVAGE, FENNEL SEED, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR,
BROTH, MUSTARD AND OIL.
VI
KID OR LAMB
_IN HÆDO VEL AGNO_
[355] DAINTY DISHES OF KID OR OF LAMB
_COPADIA HÆDINA SIVE AGNINA_
COOK WITH PEPPER AND BROTH, ALSO WITH VARIOUS ORDINARY BEANS [1]
BROTH, PEPPER AND LASER, CUMIN, DUMPLINGS [2] AND A LITTLE OIL [3].
[1] _cum faseolis_, green string beans.
[2] Tor. _imbrato_; G.-V. _inbracto_, broken bread,
regular dumplings.
[3] Lamb and beans is a favorite combination, as in the
French _haricot_, made with white beans, or boiled lamb
with fresh string beans, quite a modern dish. Torinus
omits the cumin, which is quite characteristic.
[356] ANOTHER LAMB STEW
_ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_
PUT [pieces of] KID OR LAMB IN THE STEW POT WITH CHOPPED ONION AND
CORIANDER. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, AND COOK WITH BROTH OIL AND
WINE. PUT IN A DISH AND TIE WITH ROUX [1].
[1] It appears that the binding should be done before
the stew is dished out; but this sentence illustrates
the consummate art of Apicius. The good cook carefully
separates the meat (as it is cooked) from the sauce,
eliminates impurities, binds and strains it and puts the
meat back into the finished sauce. This is the ideal way
of making a stew which evidently was known to Apicius.
[357] ANOTHER LAMB STEW
_ALITER HÆDINAM SIVE AGNINAM EXCALDATAM_
ADD TO THE PARBOILED MEAT THE RAW HERBS THAT HAVE BEEN CRUSHED IN THE
MORTAR AND COOK IT. GOAT MEAT IS COOKED LIKEWISE.
[358] BROILED KID OR LAMB STEAK
_HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_
KID AFTER BEING COOKED IN BROTH AND OIL IS SLICED AND MARINATED [1]
WITH CRUSHED PEPPER, LASER, BROTH AND A LITTLE OIL. IT IS THEN GRILLED
ON THE BROILER AND SERVED WITH GRAVY. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE
UP.
[1] The marinade is used to make the gravy.
[359] ROAST KID OR LAMB
_ALITER HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM ASSUM_
[LET US ROAST THE KID OR LAMB, ADDING] [1] HALF AN OUNCE OF PEPPER, 6
SCRUPLES OF FOALBIT [2] A LITTLE GINGER, 6 SCRUPLES OF PARSLEY, A
LITTLE LASER, A PINT OF BEST BROTH AND A SPOONFUL OIL [3].
[1] Tor.
[2] _Asarum_; Tor. _aseros_; List. _asareos_--the herb
foalbit, foalfoot, wild spikenard.
[3] Tor. continues without interruption.
[360] STUFFED BONED KID OR LAMB
_HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_ [1]
MILK-FED [2] KID OR LAMB IS CAREFULLY BONED THROUGH THE THROAT SO AS
TO CREATE A PAUNCH OR BAG; THE INTESTINES ARE PRESERVED WHOLE IN A
MANNER THAT ONE CAN BLOW OR INFLATE THEM AT THE HEAD IN ORDER TO EXPEL
THE EXCREMENTS AT THE OTHER END; THE BODY IS WASHED CAREFULLY AND IS
FILLED WITH A LIQUID DRESSING. THEREUPON TIE IT CAREFULLY AT THE
SHOULDERS, PUT IT INTO THE ROASTING PAN, BASTE WELL. WHEN DONE, BOIL
THE GRAVY WITH MILK AND PEPPER, PREVIOUSLY CRUSHED, AND BROTH, REDUCED
WINE, A LITTLE REDUCED MUST AND ALSO OIL; AND TO THE BOILING GRAVY ADD
ROUX. TO PLAY SAFE PUT THE ROAST IN A NETTING, BAG OR LITTLE BASKET
AND CAREFULLY TIE TOGETHER, ADD A LITTLE SALT TO THE BOILING GRAVY.
AFTER THIS HAS BOILED WELL THREE TIMES, TAKE THE MEAT OUT, BOIL THE
BROTH OVER AGAIN [to reduce it] INCORPORATE WITH THE ABOVE DESCRIBED
LIQUOR, ADDING THE NECESSARY SEASONING.
[1] "Hollowed out like a pipe."
[2] G.-V. _syringiatus_ (_id est mammotestus_). Tor.
_mammocestis_. We are guessing.
[3] We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a
dish were made of lamb today.
This article, like the following appears to be a
contraction of two different formulæ.
[361] STUFFED KID OR LAMB ANOTHER WAY
_ALITER HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS SYRINGIATUS_
KID OR LAMB IS THUS PREPARED AND SEASONED: TAKE [1] 1 PINT MILK, 4
OUNCES HONEY, 1 OUNCE PEPPER, A LITTLE SALT, A LITTLE LASER, GRAVY [of
the lamb] 8 OUNCES CRUSHED DATES, A SPOONFUL OIL, A LITTLE BROTH, A
SPOONFUL HONEY [2] A PINT OF GOOD WINE AND A LITTLE ROUX.
[1] Tor.
[2] G.-V.
[362] THE RAW KID OR LAMB [1]
_HÆDUS SIVE AGNUS CRUDUS_
IS RUBBED WITH OIL AND PEPPER AND SPRINKLED WITH PLENTY OF CLEAN SALT
AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACED IN THE OVEN, SERVED ROAST.
[1] It is quite evident that this sentence belongs to
the preceding formula; but all the texts make a distinct
separation.
[363] KID OR LAMB À LA TARPEIUS [1]
_HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM TARPEIANUM_
BEFORE COOKING THE LAMB TRUSS IT PROPERLY AND [marinate it in] PEPPER,
RUE, SATURY, ONIONS, AND A LITTLE THYME AND BROTH. PLACE THE ROAST IN
A PAN WITH OIL, BASTE WELL WHILE IN THE OVEN, WHEN COOKED THOROUGHLY,
FILL THE PAN WITH CRUSHED SATURY, ONIONS, RUE, DATES, BROTH, WINE,
REDUCED WINE, AND OIL; WHEN THIS GRAVY IS WELL COOKED [strain] PUT IT
UP IN A DISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE.
[1] Tor. _Tatarpeianum_. Tarpeius, family name of
Romans. Humelberg thinks this dish is named for the
people who dwelled on Mount Tarpeius. This was the
Tarpeian Rock from which malefactors were thrown.
[364] KID OR LAMB PARTHIAN STYLE
_HÆDUM SIVE AGNUM PARTHICUM_
PUT [the roast] IN THE OVEN; CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, ONION, SATURY, STONED
DAMASCUS PLUMS, A LITTLE LASER, WINE, BROTH AND OIL. HOT WINE IS
SERVED ON THE SIDE AND TAKEN WITH VINEGAR.
[365] CREAMED KID FLAVORED WITH LAUREL [1]
_HÆDUM LAUREATUM EX LACTE_
[The kid] DRESS AND PREPARE, BONE, REMOVE THE INTESTINES WITH THE
RENNET AND WASH. PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, LASER ROOT, 2
LAUREL BERRIES, A LITTLE CHAMOMILE AND 2 OR 3 BRAINS, ALL OF WHICH
CRUSH. MOISTEN WITH BROTH AND SEASON WITH SALT. OVER THIS MIXTURE
STRAIN 2 PINTS [2] OF MILK, 2 LITTLE SPOONS OF HONEY. WITH THIS
FORCEMEAT STUFF THE INTESTINES AND WRAP THEM AROUND THE KID. COVER THE
ROAST WITH CAUL AND PARCHMENT PAPER TIGHTENED WITH SKEWERS, AND PLACE
IT IN THE ROASTING PAN, ADDING BROTH, OIL AND WINE. WHEN HALF DONE,
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH THE ROAST'S OWN GRAVY AND A LITTLE
REDUCED MUST; PUT THIS BACK INTO THE PAN AND WHEN THE ROAST IS DONE
COMPLETELY GARNISH IT AND BIND [the gravy] WITH ROUX AND SERVE.
[1] Dann. thinks _laureatus_ stands for the best, the
prize-winning meat, but the laurel may refer to the
flavor used.
List. remarks that cow's milk was very scarce in Italy;
likewise was goat's and sheep's milk; hence it is
possible that the kid was cooked with its mother's own
milk.
[2] pints--_sextarii_.
VII
PIG
_IN PORCELLO_
[366] SUCKLING PIG STUFFED TWO WAYS
_PORCELLUM FARSILEM DUOBUS GENERIBUS_
PREPARE, REMOVE THE ENTRAILS BY THE THROAT BEFORE THE CARCASS HARDENS
[immediately after killing]. MAKE AN OPENING UNDER THE EAR, FILL AN OX
BLADDER WITH TARENTINE [1] SAUSAGE MEAT AND ATTACH A TUBE SUCH AS THE
BIRD KEEPER USES TO THE NECK OF THE BLADDER AND SQUEEZE THE DRESSING
INTO THE EAR AS MUCH AS IT WILL TAKE TO FILL THE BODY. THEN SEAL THE
OPENING WITH PARCHMENT, CLOSE SECURELY [with skewers] AND PREPARE [the
roast for the oven].
[1] Tor. _impensam Tarentinam_; G.-V. _Terentinam_.
The birdkeeper's tube may be an instrument for the
cramming of fowl.
[366a] THE OTHER DRESSING IS MADE THUS:
CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH A LITTLE
BROTH, ADD COOKED BRAINS, RAW EGGS, COOKED SPELT, GRAVY OF THE PIG,
SMALL BIRDS (IF ANY) NUTS, WHOLE PEPPER, AND SEASON WITH BROTH. STUFF
THE PIG, CLOSE THE OPENING WITH PARCHMENT AND SKEWERS AND PUT IT IN
THE OVEN. WHEN DONE, DRESS AND GARNISH VERY NICELY, GLAZE THE BODY
AND SERVE.
[367] ANOTHER SUCKLING PIG
_ALITER PORCELLUM_
SALT, CUMIN, LASER; ADD SAUSAGE MEAT. DILUTE WITH BROTH [1] REMOVE THE
WOMB OF THE PIG SO THAT NO PART OF IT REMAINS INSIDE. CRUSH PEPPER,
LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, ADD WINE [2] BRAINS, MIX IN 2
EGGS, FILL THE [previously] PARBOILED PIG WITH THIS FORCEMEAT, CLOSE
TIGHT, PLACE IN A BASKET AND IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK POT. WHEN
DONE REMOVE THE SKEWERS BUT IN A MANNER THAT THE GRAVY REMAINS INSIDE.
SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER, SERVE.
[1] G.-V. treats the following as a separate article
under the heading of _porcellum liquaminatum_.
[2] G.-V. _unum_ (one brain) instead of _uinum_.
[368] STUFFED BOILED SUCKLING PIG
_PORCELLUM ELIXUM FARSILEM_
REMOVE THE WOMB OF THE PIG. PARBOIL. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY,
MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD COOKED BRAINS, AS MUCH AS IS NEEDED [1]
LIKEWISE DISSOLVE EGGS, [add] BROTH TO TASTE, MAKE A SAUSAGE [of this
forcemeat] FILL THE PIG WHICH HAS BEEN PARBOILED AND RINSED WITH
BROTH. TIE THE PIG SECURELY IN A BASKET, IMMERSE IN THE BOILING STOCK
POT. REMOVE WHEN DONE, WIPE CLEAN CAREFULLY, SERVE WITHOUT PEPPER.
[1] To have a forcemeat of the right consistency.
[369] ROAST SUCKLING PIG WITH HONEY
_PORCELLUM ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM_ [1]
EMPTY THE PIG BY THE NECK, CLEAN AND DRY, CRUSH ONE OUNCE PEPPER,
HONEY AND WINE, PLACE [this in a sauce pan and] HEAT; NEXT BREAK DRY
TOAST [2] AND MIX WITH THE THINGS IN THE SAUCE PAN; STIR WITH A WHIP
OF FRESH LAUREL TWIGS [3] SO THAT THE PASTE IS NICE AND SMOOTH UNTIL
SUFFICIENTLY COOKED. THIS DRESSING FILL INTO THE PIG, WRAP IN
PARCHMENT, PLACE IN THE OVEN [roast slowly, when done, glaze with
honey] GARNISH NICELY AND SERVE.
[1] treated with honey.
[2] Tor. _tactam siccatam_ for _tractam_.
[3] Again this very subtle method of flavoring, so often
referred to. This time it is a laurel whip. Cf. {Rx}
Nos. 277 _seq._, 345, 369, 385.
[370] MILK-FED PIG, COLD, APICIAN SAUCE
_PORCELLUM LACTE PASTUM ELIXUM CALIDUM IURE FRIGIDO CRUDO APICIANO_
SERVE BOILED MILK-FED PIG EITHER HOT OR COLD WITH THIS SAUCE [1] IN A
MORTAR, PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER SEED, MINT, RUE, AND CRUSH IT.
MOISTEN WITH BROTH. ADD HONEY, WINE AND BROTH. THE BOILED PIG IS WIPED
OFF HOT WITH A CLEAN TOWEL, [cooled off] COVERED WITH THE SAUCE AND
SERVED [2].
[1] Tor.
[2] This sentence wanting in Tor.
[371] SUCKLING PIG À LA VITELLIUS [1]
_PORCELLUM VITELLIANUM_
SUCKLING PIG CALLED VITELLIAN STYLE IS PREPARED THUS [2] GARNISH THE
PIG LIKE WILD BOAR [3] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, ROAST IN OVEN. IN THE
MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO
TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING VERY LITTLE OIL, HEAT; THE
ROASTING PIG BASTE WITH THIS IN A MANNER SO THAT [the aroma] WILL
PENETRATE THE SKIN.
[1] Named for Vitellius, Roman emperor.
[2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts.
[3] i.e. marinated with raw vegetables, wine, spices,
etc. Cf. {Rx} Nos. 329-30.
[372] SUCKLING PIG À LA FLACCUS
_PORCELLUM FLACCIANUM_ [1]
THE PIG IS GARNISHED LIKE WILD BOAR [2] SPRINKLE WITH SALT, PLACE IN
THE OVEN. WHILE BEING DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY,
CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, GREEN RUE, AND CRUSH IT, MOISTEN WITH BROTH,
WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT THIS IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING A
LITTLE OIL, HEAT, BIND WITH ROUX. THE ROAST PIG, FREE FROM BONES,
SPRINKLE WITH POWDERED CELERY SEED AND SERVE.
[1] List. named for Flaccus Hordeonius, (_puto_).
Flaccus was a rather common Roman family name.
[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 371, also {Rx} Nos. 329-30.
Lister is thoroughly puzzled by this procedure, but the
problem is very simple: just treat the pig like wild
boar.
[373] SUCKLING PIG, LAUREL FLAVOR
_PORCELLUM LAUREATUM_
THE PIG IS BONED AND GARNISHED WITH A LITTLE WINE SAUCE [1] PARBOIL
WITH GREEN LAUREL IN THE CENTER [2] AND PLACE IT IN THE OVEN TO BE
ROASTED SUFFICIENTLY. MEANWHILE PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, LOVAGE,
CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED, LASER ROOT, AND LAUREL BERRIES, CRUSH THEM,
MOISTEN WITH BROTH, WINE AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [Put this in a
sauce pan and heat] BIND [with roux; untie the pig] REMOVE THE LAUREL
LEAVES; INCORPORATE THE JUICE OF THE BONES [from which a gravy has
been made in the meantime] AND SERVE.
[1] marinate in the ordinary way with _{oe}nogarum_ as
the dominant flavor.
[2] It is presumed that the boned pig is rolled and
tied, with the leaves in the center.
[374] SUCKLING PIG À LA FRONTO [1]
_PORCELLUM FRONTINIANUM_
BONE THE PIG, PARBOIL, GARNISH; IN A SAUCE PAN. ADD BROTH, WINE, BIND.
WHEN HALF DONE, ADD A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND DILL, SOME REDUCED MUST. WHEN
COOKED WIPE THE PIG CLEAN, LET IT DRIP OFF; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER,
SERVE.
[1] List. Probably named for Julius Fronto, _prætor
urbanus_ under Vitellius. Cornelius Fronto was an orator
and author at the time of emperor Hadrian. Cf. {Rx} No.
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