231. Index 11 leaves, unnumbered. This scarce book is described by

Vicaire, 32, but unknown to the collectors Drexel and Pennell. Our copy has on the inside front cover the label of the Dunnichen library. Above the same in an old hand: "Liber rarissimus Hujus editionis 120 tantum exemplaria impressa sunt." On the fly leaf, in a different old hand a six line note in Latin, quoting the medieval scholar, G. J. Vossius, Aristarch. 1.13. p. 1336, on the authorship of C{oe}lius. Directly below in still another old hand, the following note, a rather pleasing passage, full of sentiment and affection for our subject, that deserves to be quoted in full: "Alas! that time is wanting to visit the island of Magellone [Megalona-Torinus] where formerly flourished a large town, of which there are now no other remains but the cathedral church, where, according to tradition, the beautiful Magellone lies buried by her husband Peter of Province.* Matthison's letters, etc. pag. 269. "'* Jt was in the island of Magellone that Apicius's ten books on cookery were rediscovered.' _Ibid._--Vide Fabric. Biblioth: Lat: edit. ab Ernesti. vol. 2; p. 365." On the verso of the title page there is the printed note in Latin to the effect that 120 copies of this edition have been printed at the expense of eighteen gentlemen whose names are given, among them "Isaac Newton, Esq." and other famous men. {Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, LONDON, 1705 The first Apicius edition by Martin Lister, Court Physician to Queen Anne. Printed in London in 1705 by the famous printer, William Bowyer. This is one of the rarest of the Apician books, the edition being limited to 120 copies. It has been said that the second edition (Amsterdam, 1709) was limited to 100 copies, but there is no evidence to that effect.} {Transcription: APICIANA APICII C{OE}LII DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, Sive Arte Coquinaria, LIBRI DECEM. Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER, è Medicis domesticis serenissimæ Majestatis Reginæ Annæ. ET Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, & VARIORUM. LONDINI: Typis _Gulielmi Bowyer_. MDCCV.} Lister's preface to the reader occupies pp. I-XIV; the same appears in the 1709 (2nd) edition. The ten books of Apicius occupy pp. 1-231; the index comprises 11 unnumbered leaves; on the verso of the 11th leaf, the errata. One leaf for the "Catalogus" (not mentioned by Vicaire) a bibliography of the editor's extensive writings, and works used in this edition principally upon nature and medical subjects. This list was ridiculed by Dr. King. Cf. Introduction by Frederick Starr to this present work. The last leaf blank. Our copy is in the original binding, and perfect in every respect. {Illustration: VERSO OF TITLE PAGE of the first Lister edition, London, 1705, giving evidence of the edition being limited to 120 copies. This edition was done at the expense of the men named in this list. Note particularly "Isaac Newton, Esq.," Sir Christopher Wren and a few more names famous to this day.} {Transcription: _Hujus Libri_ centum & viginti _tantum_ Exemplaria _impressa sunt impensis infrascriptorum_. Tho. _Lord A.B. of_ Canterbury. Ch. _Earl of_ Sunderland. J. _Earl of_ Roxborough, _Principal Secretary of State for_ Scotland. J. _Lord_ Sommers. Charles _Lord_ Hallifax. J. _Lord Bishop of_ Norwich. Ge. _Lord Bishop of_ Bath _and_ Wells. Robert Harley _Speaker, and Principal Secretary of State_. _Sir_ Richard Buckley, _Baronet_. _Sir_ Christopher Wren. Tho. Foley, _Esq_; Isaac Newton, _Esq_; _President of the Royal Society_. William Gore, _Esq_; Francis Ashton, _Esq_; _Mr._ John Flamstead, _Ast._ Reg. John Hutton, } Tancred Robinson, } _M. D. D._ Hans Sloane. }} NO. 9, A.D. 1709, AMSTERDAM APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM ANNOTATIONIBUS || MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMÆ MAJE || STATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ, || ET || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, || A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM, || UT & VARIARUM LECTIONUM LIBELLO. || EDITIO SECUNDA. || LONGE AUCTIOR ATQUE EMENDATIOR. || AMSTELODAMI, || APUD JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS. || M D C C I X. Small 8vo. Title in red and black. Dedication addressed to Martinus Lister by Theod. Jans. [sonius] of Almeloveen; the preface, M. Lister to the Reader, and the "Judicia et Testimonia de Apicio" by Olaus Borrichius and Albertus Fabricius occupy seventeen leaves. The ten books of Apicius, with the many notes by Lister, Humelberg and others, commence with page 1 and finish on page 277. Variæ Lectiones, 9 leaves; Index, 12 leaves, none numbered. Vicaire, 32; Pennell, p. 112; G.-Drexel, No. 164. "Edition assez estimée. On peut l'annexer à la collection des Variorum d'après M. Græsse, Trésor des Livres rares et précieux."--Vicaire. Our copy is in the original full calf gold stamped binding, with the ex libris of James Maidment. The notes by Lister are more copious in this edition, which is very esteemed and is said to have been printed in 100 copies only, but there is no proof of this. Typographically an excellent piece of work that would have done justice the Elzevirs. NO. 10, A.D. 1787, MARKTBREIT CÆLII APICII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA || LIBRI X || CUM || LECTIONIBUS VARIIS || ATQUE INDICE || EDITIT || JOANNES MICHÆL BERNHOLD || COMES PALATINATUS CÆSAREUS, PHIL. ET || MED. D. SERENISSIMO MARCHIONI BRAN || DENBURGICO-ONOLDINO-CULBACENSI || A CONSILIIS AULÆ, PHYSICUS SUPREMA || RUM PRÆFECTURARUM VFFENHEMENSIS || ET CREGLINGENSIS, ACADEMIÆ IMPERIALI || NATURÆ SCRUTATORUM ADSCRIPTUS. The first edition. The title page has a conspicuously blank space for the date etc. of the publication, but this is found at the foot of p. 81, where one reads: Marcobraitæ, Excudebat Joan. Val. Knenlein, M. D. CC. LXXXVII. 8vo. Fine large copy, bound in yellow calf, gilt, with dentelles on edges and inside, by J. Clarke, the binding stamped on back, 1800. Dedication and preface, pp. XIV. The ten books of Apicius commence with p. 1 and finish on p. 81, with the date, as above. Index capitulum, pp. 82-85; Lectiones Variantes collectæ ex Editione Blasii Lanciloti, pp. 86-108, at the end of same: "Sedulo hæ Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti editione sunt excerpta ab Andrea Gözio Scholæ Sebaldinæ Norimbergiensis Collega." Variantes Lectiones, Lib. I. Epimeles, pp. 109-112, with a note at the head of the same that these variants occur in the Vatican MS. These four pages are repeated in the next chapter, pp. 113-130, "Variæ Lectiones Manuscripti Vaticani," headed by the same note, the text of which is herewith given in full. Bernhold states that these Variæ Lectiones have been taken from the second Lister edition (No. 8) where they are found following p. 277. The first Lister edition does not contain these Variæ, nor does Lister have the Variantes ex Blasii Lanciloti. The following note to the Vatican variants appears in the second Lister edition also: "Apicii collatio cum antiquissimo codice, literis fere iisdem, quibus Pandectæ Florentinæ, scripto; qui seruatur hodie Romæ in Bibliotheca Vaticana, inter libros MSS., qui fuere Ducis Vrbinatium, sed, nostris temporibus extincta illa familia Ducali, quæ Ducatum istum a Romanis Pontificibus in feudum tenuerat, Vrbino Romam translati, et separato loco in bibliotheca Vaticana respositi sunt. Contulit Henricus Volkmarus [Lister: Volkmas] Scherzerus, Lipsiensis. E bibliotheca Marquardii Gudii ad I. A. Fabricium, et, ex huius dono, ad Theodorum Ianssonium ab Almeloueen transmigrauere; qui illas suæ, Amstelodami 1709 8vo in lucem prolatæ; Apicii editioni inseri curauit." On pp. 131-154 are found the Lectiones Variantes Humelbergianæ, and on pp. 155-156 the Lectiones differentes etc. On pp. 157-228 the Index Vocabulorum ac Rerum notabiliorum etc.; on pp. 229-30 the Notandum adhuc. One blank leaf. Described by Vicaire, 33, who has only seen the 1791 edition; G.-Drexel, No. 165; Brunet I. 343. Neither Vicaire nor Georg-Drexel have the date and place of publication, which in our copy is hidden on p. 81. Georg reads Apicii C{oe}lii instead of the above. On the fly leaf the autograph of G. L. Fournier, Bayreuth, 1791. Bernhold has based his edition upon Lister and on the edition by Blasius Lancilotus, Milan, 1490, (our No. 2, which see.) Aside from the preface in which Bernhold names this and other Apicius editions, unknown to the bibliographers, the editor has not added any of his own observations. Being under the influence of Lister, he joins the English editor in the condemnation of Torinus. His work is valuable because of the above mentioned variants. NO. 11, A.D. 1791, LÜBECK [Same as above] The Second Edition. Vicaire, 33. not in G.-Drexel nor Pennell. NO. 12, A.D. 1800, ANSBACH APITIUS C{OE}LIUS DE RE CULINARIA. Ed. Bernhold. 8vo. Ansbachii, 1800. Ex Georg, No. 1076; not in Vicaire nor in Pennell. Though listed by Georg, it is not in the Drexel collection. NO. 13, A.D. 1852, VENICE APITIUS CÆLIUS DELLE VIVANDE E CONDIMENTI OVVERO DELL' ARTE DE LA CUCINA. VOLGARIZZAMENTO CON ANNOTATIONI DI G. BASEGGIO. 8vo, pp. 238. With the original Latin text. Venezia, 1852, Antonelli. Ex Georg-Drexel, No. 1077. NO. 14, A.D. 1867, HEIDELBERG APICI CÆLI || DE || RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || NOVEM CODICUM OPE ADIUTUS, AUXIT, RESTI || TUIT, EMENDAVIT, ET CORREXIT, VARIARUM || LECTIONUM PARTE POTISSIMA ORNAVIT, STRIC || TIM ET INTERIM EXPLANAVIT || CHR. THEOPHIL. SCHUCH. || HEIDELBERGÆ, 1867. 8vo. pp. 202. Ex Vicaire, 33; Not in G.-Drexel, not in Pennell. NO. 15, A.D. 1874 [The same] EDITIO SECUNDA HEIDELBERGÆ, 1874, [Winter]. Although G.-Drexel, No. 1075, reads Apitius C{oe}lius, our copy agrees with the reading of Vicaire, col. 889, appendix. Not in Pennell. Brandt (Untersuchungen [No. 29] p. 6) calls Schuch _Wunderlicher Querkopf_. He is correct. The Schuch editions are eccentric, worthless. NO. 16, A.D. 1909, LEIPZIG DAS APICIUS-KOCHBUCH AUS DER ALTRÖMISCHEN KAISERZEIT. Ins Deutsche übersetzt und bearbeitet von Richard Gollmer. Mit Nachbildungen alter Kunstblätter, Kopfleisten und Schlusstücke. Breslau und Leipzig bei Alfred Langewort, 1909. 8vo. pp. 154. NO. 17, A.D. 1911, LEIPZIG APICIUS CÆLIUS: ALTRÖMISCHE KOCHKUNST IN ZEHN BÜCHERN. Bearbeitet und ins Deutsche übersetzt von Eduard Danneil, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur. Leipzig: 1911: Herausgabe und Verlag: Kurt Däweritz, Herzoglich Altenburgischer Hoftraiteur Obermeister der Innung der Köche zu Leipzig und Umgebung. 8vo, pp. XV + 127. NO. 18, A.D. 1922, LEIPZIG APICII || LIBRORVM X QVI DICVNTVR || DE RE COQVINARIA || QVÆ EXTANT || EDIDERVNT || C. GIARRATANO ET FR. VOLLMER || LIPSIÆ IN ÆDIBVS B. G. TEVBNERI MCMXXII. NO. 19, A.D. 1933, PARIS LES DIX LIVRES DE CUISINE D'APICIUS traduits du latin pour la Première fois et commentés par Bertrand Guégan. Paris René Bonnel Éditeur rue Blanche, No. 8. No date (_in fine_ October 16th, 1933). Three blank leaves, false title; on verso, facing the title page (!) "_du mème auteur_"--a full-page advertisement of the author's many-sided publications, past and future. Title page, verso blank. On p. ix _Introduction_, a lengthy discourse on dining in ancient times, including a mention of Apician manuscripts and editions. This commences on p. Li with _Les Manuscrits d'Apicius_. The _Introduction_ finishes on p. Lxxviii. On p. 1 _Les Dix Livres d'Apicius_, on p. 2 a facsimile in black of the _incipit_ of the Vatican manuscript, Apiciana II. On p. 3 commences the translation into French of the Apician text, finishing on p. 308. _Table Analytique_ (index) pp. 309-322. Follow three unnumbered sheets, on the first page of which is the _Justification du tirage_, with the date of printing and the printer's name, Durand of Chartres. The copies printed are numbered from 1 to 679. The copy before us is No. 2; copies 1 to 4 are printed on Montval vellum, 5 to 29 on Dutch Pannekoek vellum, the rest, 30 to 679 on Vidalon vellum paper. Unfortunately, the present work did not reach us until after ours had gone to press. The text of this edition, the first to appear in the French language, could not be considered in our work, for this reason. However, a few casual remarks about it may be in order here. A hasty perusal reveals the disconcerting fact that the editor has been influenced by and has followed the example of Schuch by the adoption of his system of numbering the recipes. We do not approve of his inclusion of the excerpts of Vinidarius in the Apician text. The observations presented in this edition are rich and varied. The material, comprising the _Introduction_ and also the explanatory notes to the recipes are interesting, copious and well-authenticated. The editor reveals himself to be a better scholar, well-read in the classics, than a practical cook, well-versed in kitchen practice. Frequently, for instance, he confounds _liquamen_ with _garum_, the age-old shortcoming of the Apician scholars. The advertisement facing the title page of this work is misplaced, disturbing. Nevertheless, we welcome this French version which merits a thorough study; this we hope to publish at some future date. Any serious and new information on Apicius is welcome and much needed to clear up the mysteries. The advent of a few additional cooks on the scene doesn't matter. Let them give lie to the old proverb that too many cooks spoil the broth. Apicius has been so thoroughly scrambled during the sixteen-hundred years preceding his first printing which started the scholars after him. So far, with the exception of a few minor instances, they have done remarkably well. The complete unscrambling can be done only by many new cooks, willing to devote much pain and unremunerative, careful, patient work in discovering new evidence and adding it to what there is already, to arrive at the truth of the matter. NO. 20, A.D. 1926-1936, CHICAGO Apicius, J. D. Vehling, the present edition. DESCRIPTION OF COMMENTARIES NO. 21, A.D. 1531, FRANKFORT DE RE COQUINARIA. VON SPEISEN. Natürlichen und Kreuterwein, aller Verstandt. Vber den Zusatz viler bewerter Künst, insonders fleissig gebessert und corrigirt aus Apitio, Platina, Varrone, Bapt. Fiera cet.'; Francofurti, apud Egenolfum, 1531, 4to. Ex Bernhold, p. XIV, unknown to the bibliographers. The above is related to the following two works. Apparently, all three have little bearing on Apicius. NO. 22, A.D. 1534, FRANKFORT POLYONYMI SYNGRAPHEI SCHOLA APICIANA. Ibid. 1534, 4to. Ex Bernhold, p. XIV., unknown to the bibliographers. Copy in the Baron Pichon collection, No. 569. NO. 23, AD. 1535, ANTWERP SCHOLA || APITIANA, EX OP || TIMIS QVIBVS || DAM AUTHORIBUS DILIGEN || TER AC NOUITER CONSTRU || CTA, AUTHORE POLYO || NIMO SYNGRA || PHEO. || A C GESSERE DIA || LOGI ALIQUOT D. ERASMI RO || TERODAMI, & ALIA QUÆDAM || LECTU IUCUNDISSIMA. || VÆNEUNT ANTUERPIÆ IN ÆDI || BUS IOANNIS STEELSIJ. || I. G. 1535. Small 8vo. Title in beautiful woodcut border. [_in fine_] TYPIS IOAN. GRAPHEI. M.D.XXXV. Pagination A-I 4, on verso of I 4, device of Io. Steels, Concordia, with doves on square and astronomical globe. On verso of title, In Scholam Apitianam Præfatio. Sheet A3 Mensam Amititiæ Sacram esse, etc. On sheet A6 The dialogue by Erasmus of Rotterdam between Apitivs and Spvdvs to verso of sheet A8; follows: Conviviarvm qvis nvmervs esse debeat [etc.] ex Aulo Gellio; Præcepta C{oe}narvm by Horace; De Ciborvm Ratione by Michæle Savonarola [Grandfather of the great Girolamo S.]; on sheet C5 De Cibis Secvndæ Mensæ, by Paulus Aegineta; and a number of other quotations from ancient and medieval authors, partly very amusing. The Apician matter seems to be entirely fictitious. In the collection of the author. Vicaire, 701, who also describes in detail the 1534 edition printed by Egenolph but which is not the same as the above in text. NO. 24, A.D. 1831, HEIDELBERG FLORA APICIANA. Dierbach, J. H. Ein Beitrag zur näheren Kenntniss der Nahrungsmittel der alten Römer. Heidelberg, 1831, Groos. 8vo. NO. 25, A.D. 1868, LONDON H. C. COOTE: THE CUISINE BOURGEOISE OF ANCIENT ROME. Archæologia, vol. XLI. Ex Bibliotheca A. Shircliffe. NO. 26, A.D. 1912, NAPLES CESARE GIARRATANO: I CODICI DEI LIBRI DE RE COQUINARIA DI CELIO. Naples, 1912, Detken & Rocholl. NO. 27, AD. 1920 FRIEDRICH VOLLMER: STUDIEN ZU DEM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE VON APICIUS. Vorgetragen am 7. Februar 1920. Sitzungsberichte der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften Philosophisch-philologische und historische Klasse Jahrgang, 1920, 6. Abhandlung. München, 1920. Verlag der Bayerischen Akademie der Wissenschaften in Kommission des G. Franzschen Verlags (J. Roth). NO. 28, A.D. 1921 G. STERNAJOLO: CODICES VRBINATI LATINI. NO. 29, AD. 1927 UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZUM RÖMISCHEN KOCHBUCHE Versuch einer Lösung der Apicius-Frage von Edward Brandt, Leipzig, Dietrich'sche Verlagsbuchhandlung, 1927. Philologus, Supplementband XIX, Heft III. 164 pp. Dr. Edward Brandt, the philologist of Munich, is the latest of the Apician commentators. His researches are quite exhaustive. While not conclusive (as some of the problems will perhaps never be solved) he has shed much new light on the vexatious questions of the origin and the authors of our old Roman cookery book. APICIANÆ FINIS {Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE CUP WITH HANDLES Elaborate decoration of Bacchic motifs: wine leaves and masks of satyrs. Hildesheim Treasure.} INDEX and VOCABULARY A Abalana, Abellana, hazelnut, see Avellana Abbreviations, explanation of, p. xv ABDOMEN, sow's udder, belly, fat of lower part of belly, figur. Gluttony, intemperance ABROTANUM, --ONUM, --ONUS the herb lad's love; or, according to most Southernwood. ABROTONUM is also a town in Africa Absinth. ABSINTHIUM, the herb wormwood. The Romans used A. from several parts of the world. {Rx} 3, also APSINTHIUM ABSINTHIATUS, --UM, flavored with wormwood, {Rx} 3 ABSINTHITES, wine tempered or mixed with wormwood; modern absinth or Vermouth, cf. {Rx} 3 ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 ABUA, a small fish; see APUA, {Rx} 138, 139, 147 ACER, ACEO, ACIDUM, to be or to make sour, tart ACETABULUM, a "vinegar" cruet: a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms; see Measures ACETUM, vinegar ---- MULSUM, mead ACICULA, ACUS, the needle fish, or horn-back, or horn-beak; a long fish with a snout sharp like a needle; the gar-fish, or sea-needle ACIDUM, sour; same as ACER ACINATICIUS, a costly raisin wine ACINOSUS, full of kernels or stones ACINUS, --UM, a grain, or grape raisin berry or kernel ACIPENSER, a large fish, sturgeon, {Rx} 145; also see STYRIO ACOR, --UM, sourness, tartness; the herb sweetcane, gardenflag, galangale ACRIMONIA, acidity, tartness, sourness; harshness of taste ACUS, same as ACICULA Adjustable Table, illustration, p. 138 ADULTERAM, "tempting" dish, {Rx} 192 Adulterations of food in antiquity, pp. 33, 39, seq. 147; {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 15, 17, 18. Also see Cookery, deceptive Advertising cooked ham, {Rx} 287 Advertising ancient hotels, p. 6 Aegineta, Paulus, writer on medicine and cookery, see Apiciana, No. 5-6 AENEUM, a "metal" cooking utensil, a CACCABUS, which see; AENEUM VAS, a mixing bowl; AENEA PATELLA, a pewter, bronze or silver service platter. Aeno Coctus, braised, sometimes confused with oenococtum, stewed in wine AËROPTES, fowl, birds; the correct title of Book VI, see p. 141 Aethiopian Cumin {Rx} 35 "AFFE" (Ger.) Monkey; {Rx} 55; also see Caramel Coloring AGITARE (OVA), to stir, to beat (eggs) AGNUS, IN AGNO, lamb; AGNINUS, pertaining to L. {Rx} 291 seq., 355, 364, 495 ---- COPADIA AGNINA, {Rx} 355 seq. ---- AGNI COCTURA, {Rx} 358 ---- ASSUS, {Rx} 359 ---- AGNUM SIMPLICEM, {Rx} 495 ---- TARPEIANUS, {Rx} 363 AGONIA, cattle sacrificed at the festivals: only little of the victims was wasted at religious ceremonies. The priests, after predicting the future from the intestines, burned them but sold the carcass to the innkeeper and cooks of the POPINA, hence the name. These eating places of a low order did a thriving business with cheaply bought meats which, however, usually were of the best quality. In Pompeii such steaks were exhibited in windows behind magnifying glasses to attract the rural customer Albino, writer, p. 10 ALBUM, ALBUMEN, white; ---- OVORUM, the "whites" of egg; ---- PIPER, white pepper, etc. ALEX, (ALEC, HALEC), salt water, pickle, brine, fish brine. Finally, the fish itself when cured in A. cf. MURIA Alexandria, the city founded by Alexander the Great, important Mediterranean harbor. A. was a rival of Rome and Athens in Antiquity, famous for its luxury Alexandrine dishes {Rx} 75, 348, seq. ALICA, spelt. {Rx} 200 ALICATUM, any food treated with ALEX, which see ALLIATUM, a garlic sauce, consisting of a purée of pounded garlic whipped up with oil into a paste of a consistency of mayonnaise, a preparation still popular in the Provence today; finally, anything flavored with garlic or leeks ALLIUM, garlic; also leek. Fr. AILLE Almonds, AMYGDALA, peeling and bleaching of A. {Rx} 57 AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew AMBIGA, a small vessel in the shape of a pyramid AMBOLATUS, unidentified term; p. 172; {Rx} 57, 59 Amerbach Manuscript, Apiciana XIV AMMI, (AMMIUM, AMI, AMIUM), cumin AMURCA (AMUREA), the lees of oil AMYGDALA (--UM) Almonds, {Rx} 57; OLEUM AMYGDALIUM, almond oil AMYLARE (AMULARE), to thicken with flour. AMYLATUM (AMULATUM) that which is thickened with flour. Wheat or rice flour and fats or oil usually were used for this purpose, corresponding to our present roux. However, the term was also extended to the use of eggs for the purpose of thickening fluids, thus becoming equivalent to the present liaison, used for soups and sauces. Hence AMYLUM and AMULUM, which is also a sort of frumenty Anacharsis, the Scythian, writer. He described a banquet at Athens during the Periclean age. pp. 3, 7 ANAS, a duck or drake; {Rx} 212-17. ANATEM, {Rx} 212; ANATEM EX RAPIS, {Rx} 214 Anchovy, a small fish; {Rx} 147; cf. APUA. ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 138; ---- sauce and GARUM (which see) {Rx} 37; ---- omelette {Rx} 147 ANET(H)ATUM, flavored with dill; ANET(H)UM, dill, also anise ANGUILLA, eel, {Rx} 466-7, 484. cf. CONGRIO ANGULARUS, a "square" dish or pan ANISUM, anise, pimpinella ANSER, goose, gander; IN ANSERE, {Rx} 234; ---- JUS CANDIDUM {Rx} 228 ANTIPASTO, "Before the Meal," modern Italian appetizer; the prepared article usually comes in cans or glasses, consisting of tunny, artichokes, olives, etc., preserved in oil APER, see APRUS APEXABO, a blood sausage; cf. LONGANO Aphricocks, {Rx} 295 APHROS, {Rx} 295 APHYA, see APUA Apician Cheesecakes, p. 9 ---- cookery, influence, p. 16, 23 ---- Archetypus, p. 19 ---- manuscripts, p. 19, p. 253, seq. ---- Terminology, p. 22 ---- dishes, compared with modern dishes, p. 23 ---- sauces, p. 24 ---- Style of writing, p. 26 ---- research, p. 34 seq. Apiciana, Diagram of, p. 252 Apicius, pp. 7, 9 ---- The man, p. 9 ---- Athenaeus on, p. 9 ---- and Platina, p. 9 ---- Expedition to find crawfish, p. 9 ---- ships oysters, p. 10 ---- school, p. 10 ---- death, pp. 10, 11 ---- reflecting Roman conditions, pp. 14, 15 ---- authenticity of, pp. 18, 19 ---- writer, p. 26, {Rx} 176, 436 ---- confirmed by modern science, p. 33 ---- editors as cooks, p. 34 seq. Apion, writer, quoted by Athenaeus, p. 9 APIUM, celery, smallage, parsley. {Rx} 104 APOTHERMA (--UM, APODERMUM) hot porridge, gruel, pudding. {Rx} 57; cf. TISANA APPARATUS, preparation; ---- MENSAE, getting dinner ready Appetizers. {Rx} 174 and others. According to Horace, eggs were the first dishes served. The "moveable appetizer" of Apicius is very elaborate, p. 210 Appert, François, {Rx} 24, father of the modern canning methods Apples, {Rx} 22, 171 APRUS, APRUGNUS, wild boar. {Rx} 329-38. APRINA, PERNA, {Rx} 338, also APER APUA (ABUA, APHYA), a small kind of fish, anchovy, sprat, whiting, white bait, or minnow. {Rx} 138-9, 146, cf. Pliny. Apua is also a town in Liguria; its inhabitants APUANI AQUA, water; ---- CALIDA, hot w.; ---- CISTERNINA, well w.; ---- MARINA, sea w.; ---- NITRATA, soda w. for the cooking of vegetables; ---- RECENS; fresh, i.e., not stale w.; ---- PLUVIALE, rain w. AQUALICUS lower part of belly, paunch, ventricle, stomach, maw Archetypus Fuldensis, manuscript, see Apiciana Diagram ARCHIMAGIRUS, principal cook, chef, cf. Cooks' names ARIDA (--US, --UM) dry; ---- MENTHA, dry mint ARTEMISIA, the herb mugwort, motherwort, tarragon ARTOCREAS, meat pie ARTOPTES, Torinus' title of Book II; better: SARCOPTES, minces, minced meats ARTYMA, spice; cf. CONDIMENTUM Asa foetida, use of ---- {Rx} 15, p. 23 ASARUM, the Herb foalbit, foalfoot, coltsfoot, wild spikenard ASCALONICA CEPA, "scallion," young onion Asparagus, ASPARAGUS, p. 188, {Rx} 72, ---- and figpecker, {Rx} 132, ---- custard pie, {Rx} 133 ASSATURA, a roast, also the process of roasting. {Rx} 266-270 ASSUS, roast ASTACUS, a crab or lobster Athenaeus, writer, pp. 3, seq. ---- on Apicius, p. 10 Athene, Dish illustration, p. 158 ATRIPLEX, the herb orage, or orach ATRIUM, living room in a Roman residence, formerly used for kitchen purposes, hence the name, "black room," because of the smoky walls. Like all simple things then and now, the Atrium often developed into a magnificently decorated court, with fountains and marble statues, and became a sort of parlor to receive the guests of the house ATTAGENA (ATAGENA), heath cock, a game bird. {Rx} 218, seq. AURATA, a fish, "golden" dory, red snapper. {Rx} 157, 461, 462 AVELLANA, hazelnut, filbert, Fr. AVELLINE ---- NUX, ---- NUCLEUS, kernel of f. {Rx} 297 and in the list of the Excerpta AVENA, a species of bearded grass, haver-grass, oats, wild oats AVIBUS, IN-- {Rx} 220, 21, 24, 27 AVICULARIUS, bird keeper, poulterer AVIS, bird, fowl; AVES ESCULENTAE, edible birds. ---- HIRCOSAE, ill-smelling birds, {Rx} 229-30, ---- NE LIQUESCANT, {Rx} 233 B BACCA, berry, seed. ---- MYRTHEA, myrtle berry; ---- RUTAE, rue berry; ---- LAUREA, laurel berry, etc. Bacon, {Rx} 285-90; see also SALSUM BAIAE, a town, watering place of the ancients, for which many dishes are named. {Rx} 205. BAIANUM pertaining to BAIAE; hence EMPHRACTUM ----, FABAE, etc. {Rx} 202, 205, 432; Baian Seafood Stew, {Rx} 431 Bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 Bantam Chicken, {Rx} 237 Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158 Barley Broth, {Rx} 172, 200, 247 BARRICA, {Rx} 173 Barthélemy, J. J., writer, translator of Anacharsis, p. 8 Baseggio, G., editor, Apiciana, No. 13, p. 270 BASILICUM, basil Bavarian Cabbage, {Rx} 87 Beans, {Rx} 96, 189, 194-8, 247; Green ---- {Rx} 247; ---- sauté, {Rx} 203; ---- in mustard, {Rx} 204 ---- Baian style, {Rx} 202 ---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM Beauvilliers, A., French cook; cf. Styrio Beef, p. 30; shortage of ---- diet, p. 30 ---- "Beef Eaters," p. 30 ---- dishes, {Rx} 351, seq. Beets, {Rx} 70, 97, 98, 183 ---- named for Varro, {Rx} 70, 97, 98 Bernardinus, of Venice, printer, p. 258 Bernhold, J. M., editor, Apiciana, Nos. 2-3, 12-14, pp. 258, seq. BETA, beet, which see BETACEOS VARRONES, {Rx} 70 Bibliographers of Apicius, see Apiciana Birds, Book VI, {Rx} 210-227; treatment of strong-smelling ---- {Rx} 229, 230 BLITUM, a pot herb, the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to some interpreters Boar, wild, {Rx} 329-38, p. 314 Boiled Dinners, {Rx} 125 BOLETAR, a dish for mushrooms, {Rx} 183 BOLETUS, mushroom, {Rx} 309-14 Bordelaise, {Rx} 351 Borrichius, Olaus, p. 268 BOTELLUS, (dim. of BOTULUS) small sausage, {Rx} 60. BOTULUS, a sausage, meat pudding, black pudding, {Rx} 60, 61, 172 BOUILLABAISSE, a fish stew of Marseilles, {Rx} 431, 481 Bouquet garni, {Rx} 138 BOVES, Beef cattle; cf. BUBULA Bowls for mixing wine, etc., see Crater ---- for fruit or dessert, illustration, p. 61 Brain Sausage, {Rx} 45 ---- Custard, {Rx} 128 ---- and bacon, {Rx} 148 ---- and chicken with peas, {Rx} 198 Brandt, Edward, Editor, Commentator, {Rx} 29, 170, p. 273 BRASSICA, cabbage, kale; ---- CAMPESTRA, turnip; ---- OLERACEA, cabbage and kale; ---- MARINA, sea kale (?) Bread, Alexandrine, {Rx} 126; Picentian ----, {Rx} 125. The methods of grinding flour and baking is illustrated with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii and the Slaves grinding flour, which see, pp. 142, 149. Apicius has no directions for baking, an art that was as highly developed in his days as was cookery BREVIS PIMENTORUM, facsimile, p. 234 Brissonius, writer, quoting Lambecius, {Rx} 376 Broiler and Stove, illustration, p. 182 Broth, see LIQUAMEN; Barley ----, {Rx} 172, 200, 201 ---- How to redeem a spoiled, {Rx} 9 BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352 BUBULUS CASEUS, cow's cheese BUCCA, BUCCEA, mouth, cheek; also a bite, a morsel, a mouth-full; Fr. BOUCHÉE; BUCELLA (dim.) a small bite, a dainty bit, delicate morsel; hence probably, Ger. "Buss'l" a little kiss and "busseln," to spoon, to kiss, in the Southern German dialect BUCCELLATUM, a biscuit, Zwieback, soldier's bread, hard tack BULBUS, a bulbous root, a bulb, onion, {Rx} 285, 304-8 BULBI FRICTI, {Rx} 308 BULLIRE, to boil; Fr. BOUILLIR BUTYRUM, butter. Was little used in ancient households, except for cosmetics. Cows were expensive, climate and sanitary conditions interfered with its use in the Southern kitchen. The Latin butyrum is said to derive from the German Butter C CABBAGE, {Rx} 87-92, 103; p. 188 Bavarian, {Rx} 87 Ingenious way of cooking, {Rx} 88 Chartreuse, {Rx} 469 CACABUS, CACCABUS, a cook pot, marmite; see OLLA. Illustrations, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235. Hence: CACCABINA, dish cooked in a caccabus. See also SALACACCABIA, {Rx} 468. I Exc. 470 CAELIUS, see Coelius CAEPA, CEPA, onion; ---- ARIDA, fresh onion; ---- ROTUNDA, round onion; ---- SICCA, dry o.; ---- ASCALONICA, young o. "scallion;" ---- PALLACANA or PALLICANA, a shallot, a special Roman variety Calamary, cuttlefish, {Rx} 405, p. 343 CALAMENTHUM, cress, watercress CALLUM, CALLUS (---- PORCINUM) tough skin, bacon skin, cracklings. {Rx} 9, 251, 255 CAMERINUM, town in Umbria, {Rx} 3, where Vermouth was made CAMMARUS MARINUS, a kind of crab-fish, {Rx} 43 CANABINUM, CANNABINUM, hemp, hempen CANCER, crab Canning, {Rx} 23-24 CANTHARUS, illustrations, p. 231; p. 274 CAPON, {Rx} 166, 249; CAPONUM TESTICULI, {Rx} 166 CAPPAR, caper CAPPARA, purslane, portulaca CAPPARUS, CARABUS, {Rx} 397 CAPRA, she-goat, also mountain goat, chamois; Ger. GEMSE; {Rx} 346-8 Caramel coloring, {Rx} 55, 73, 119, 124, 146 CARDAMOMUM, cardamom, aromatic seed CARDAMUM, nasturtium, cress Cardoons, {Rx} 112-4 CARDUS, CARDUUS, cardoon, edible thistle, {Rx} 112-3 Carême, Antonin, The most talented French cook of the post-revolution period; his chartreuses compared, {Rx} 186, p. 35 CARENUM, CAROENUM, wine or must boiled down one third of its volume to keep it. {Rx} 35 CAREUM, CARUM, Carraway CARICA (---- FICUS) a dried fig from Caria, a reduction made of the fig wine was used for coloring sauce, similar to our caramel color, which see CARIOTA, CARYOTA, a kind of large date, figdate; also a wine, a date wine; {Rx} 35 CARO, flesh of animals, {Rx} 10; ---- SALSA, pickled meat CAROTA, CAROETA, carrot; {Rx} 121-3 Carthusian monks, inventors of the CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, see also Carême CARTILAGO, gristle, tendon, cartilage CARYOPHYLLUS, clove Casa di Forno, Pompeii, "House of the Oven," illustration, p. 2 CASEUS, cheese; {Rx} 125, 303; ---- BUBULUS, cow's cheese; ---- VESTINUS, {Rx} 126 CASTANEA, chestnut, {Rx} 183 seq. Catesby, writer, {Rx} 322 Catfish, {Rx} 426 CATTABIA, see Salacaccabia Caul Sausage, Kromeski, {Rx} 45 CAULICULOS, {Rx} 87-92; also Col-- cul-- and coliclus Cauliflower, {Rx} 87 Caviare, see STYRIO Celery, {Rx} 104 Celsinus, a Roman, {Rx} 376-7 CENA, COENA, a meal, a repast; CENULA, a light luncheon; ---- RECTA, a "regular" meal, a formal dinner, usually consisting of GUSTUS, appetizers and light ENTRÉES, the CENA proper which is the PIÈCE DE RESISTANCE and the MENSÆ SECUNDAE, or desserts. The main dish was the CAPUT CENAE; the desserts were also called BELLARIA or MENSAE POMORUM, because they usually finished with fruit. Hence Horace's saying "AB OVO USQUE AD MALA" which freely translated and modernized means, "Everything from soup to nuts." ---- AUGURALIS, ---- PONTIFICALIS, ---- CAPITOLINA, ---- PERSICA, ----SYBARITICA, ---- CAMPANAE, ---- CEREALIS, ---- SALIARIS, ----TRIUMPHALIS, ---- POLINCTURA are all names for state dinners, official banquets, refined private parties each with its special significance which is hard to render properly into our language except by making a long story of it ---- PHILOSOPHICA, ---- PLATONICA, ---- LACONICA, ---- RUSTICA, ----CYNICA are all more or less skimpy affairs, while the ---- ICCI is that of a downright miser. ---- HECATES is a hectic meal, ----TERRESTRIS a vegetarian dinner, ---- DEUM, a home-cooked meal, and a ---- SATURNIA is one without imported dishes or delicacies, a national dinner ---- NOVENDIALIS is the feast given on the ninth day after the burial of a dead man when his ashes were scattered while yet warm and fresh. ---- DUBIA, {Rx} 139, is the "doubtful meal" which causes the conscientious physician Lister so much worry The CENA, to be sure, was an evening meal, the PRANDIUM, a noon-day meal, a luncheon, any kind of meal; the JENTACULUM, a breakfast, an early luncheon; the MERENDA was a snack in the afternoon between the meals for those who had "earned" a bite There are further CENAE, such as ---- DAPSILIS, ---- PELLOCIBILIS, ---- UNCTA, ---- EPULARIS, ---- REGALIS, all more or less generous affairs, and our list of classical and sonorous dinner names is by no means exhausted herewith. The variety of these names is the best proof of how seriously a meal was considered by the ancients, how much thought was devoted to its character and arrangements CEPA, same as CAEPA, onion CEPAEA, purslane, sea-purslane, portulaca CEPUROS, Gr., gardener; title of Book III CERASUM, cherry, Fr. CERISE; Cerasus is a city of Pontus (Black Sea) whence Lucullus imported the cherry to Rome CEREBRUM, CEREBELLUM, brains, {Rx} 46 CEREFOLIUM, CAEREFOLIUM, chervil, Ger. KERBEL, Fr. CERFEUILLE Cereto de Tridino, printer, see Tacuinus CERVUS, stag, venison, {Rx} 339-45 Cesena, a town in Italy where there is an Apicius Ms.; Apiciana XII CHAMAE, cockles Chamois, {Rx} 346 seq. Charcoal used for filtering, {Rx} 1 CHARTREUSE, {Rx} 68, 131, 145a, 186, 469-70; also see Carthusian monks and Carême "Chasseur," {Rx} 263 Cheese, cottage, {Rx} 303; also see CASEUS Cheltenham codex, Apiciana I Cherries, {Rx} 22, see CERASUS Chestnuts, {Rx} 183-84a Chicken, PULLUS ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 50; ---- broth, 51; ---- fricassé, 56; ---- boiled, 235, 236, 242; ---- and dasheens, 244; ---- creamed, with paste, 247; ---- stuffed, 248, 199, 213-17, 235; ---- in cream, 250; ---- disjointed, 139, note 1; ---- Bantam, 237; ---- cold, in its own gravy, 237; ---- fried or sauté, 236; ---- Guinea hen, 239; ---- Fricassé Varius, 245; ---- à la Fronto, 246; ---- Parthian style, 237; ---- and leeks, 238; ---- with laser, 240; ---- roast, 241; ---- and pumpkin, 243; ---- galantine, 249; ---- fried with cream sauce, 250; ---- Maryland, Wiener Backhähndl, 250 Chick-peas, {Rx} 207-9; p. 247 Chimneys on pies, {Rx} 141 Chipolata garniture, {Rx} 378 CHOENIX, a measure,--2 SEXTARII, {Rx} 52 Chops, {Rx} 261 CHOUX DE BRUXELLES AUX MARRONS, {Rx} 92 Christina, Queen of Sweden, eating Apician dishes, pp. 37, 38 CHRYSOMELUM, CHRYSOMALUM, a sort of quince CIBARIA, victuals, provisions, food; same as CIBUS. Hence CIBARIAE LEGES, sumptuary laws; CIBARIUM VAS, a vessel or container for food; CIBARIUS, relating to food; also CIBATIO, victualling, feeding, meal, repast CIBARIUM ALBUM, white repast, white dish, blancmange. Fr. BLANC MANGER, "white eating." A very old dish. Platina gives a fine recipe for it; in Apicius it is not yet developed. The body of this dish is ground almonds and milk, thickened with meat jelly. Modern cornstarch puddings have no longer a resemblance to it; to speak of "chocolate" blancmange as we do, is a barbarism. Platina is proud of his C.A. He prefers it to any Apician dessert. We agree with him; the incomplete Apicius in Platina's and in our days has no desserts worth mentioning. A German recipe of the 13th century (in "Ein Buch von guter Spise") calls C.A. "Blamansier," plainly a corruption of the French. By the translation of C.A. into the French, the origin of the dish was obliterated, a quite frequent occurrence in French kitchen terminology CIBORIUM, a drinking vessel CIBUS, food, victuals, provender CICER, chick-pea, small pulse, {Rx} 207-209 Cicero, famous Roman, {Rx} 409 CICONIA, stork. Although there is no direct mention of the C. as an article of diet it has undoubtedly been eaten same as crane, egrets, flamingo and similar birds CINARA, CYNARA, artichoke CINNAMONUM, cinnamon CIRCELLOS ISICATOS, a sausage, {Rx} 65 CITREA MALA, citron; see CITRUM CITREUS, citron tree CITRUM, CITRIUM, the fruit of the CITREUS, citron, citrus, {Rx} 23, 81, 168. The citron tree is also MALUS MEDICA. "MALUS QUAE CITRIA VOCANTUR"; CONDITURA MALORUM MEDICORUM, Ap. Book I.; Lister thinks this is a cucumber CITRUS, orange or lemon tree and their fruits. It is remarkable that Apicius does not speak of lemons, one of the most indispensable fruits in modern cookery which grow so profusely in Italy today. These were imported into Italy probably later. The ancients called a number of other trees CITRUS also, including the cedar, the very name of which is a corruption of CITRUS Classic Cookery, pp. 16-17 CLIBANUS, portable oven; also a broad vessel for bread-making, a dough trough CNECON, {Rx} 16 CNICOS, CNICUS, CNECUS, bastard saffron; also the blessed thistle CNISSA, smoke or steam arising from fat or meat while roasting COCHLEAE, snails, also sea-snails, "cockles," periwinkles, {Rx} 323-25. ---- LACTE PASTAE, milk-fed snails. COCHLEARIUM, a snail "farm," place where snails were raised and fattened for the table. Also a "spoonful," a measure of the capacity of a small shell, more properly, however, COCHLEAR, a spoon, a spoon-full, 1/4 cyathus, the capacity of a small shell, also, properly, a spoon for drawing snails out of the shells. COCHLEOLA, a small snail COCOLOBIS, basil, basilica COCTANA, COTANA, COTTANA, COTONA, a small dried fig from Syria COCTIO, the act of cooking or boiling COCTIVA CONDIMENTA, easy of digestion, not edible without cooking. COCTIVUS, soon boiled or roasted COCTOR, cook, which see; same as COQUUS COCULA, same as COQUA, a female cook COCULUM, a cooking vessel COCUS, COQUUS, cook, which see Coelius, name of a person, erroneously attached to that of Apicius; also Caelius, p. 13 COLADIUM, --EDIUM, --ESIUM, --OESIUM, variations of COLOCASIUM, which see Colander, illustration of a, p. 58 COLICULUS, CAULICULUS, a tender shoot, a small stalk or stem, {Rx} 87-92 COLO, to strain, to filter, cf. {Rx} 73 COLOCASIA, COLOCASIUM, the dasheen, or taro, or tanyah tuber, of which there are many varieties; the root of a plant known to the ancients as Egyptian Bean. Descriptions in the notes to the {Rx} 74, 154, 172, 200, 244 and 322 COLUM NIVARIUM, a strainer or colander for wine and other liquids. See illustration, p. 58 COLUMBA, female pigeon; COLUMBUS, the male; COLUMBULUS, --A, squab, {Rx} 220. Also used as an endearing term Columella, writer on agriculture; ---- on bulbs, {Rx} 307; ---- mentioning Matius, {Rx} 167 COLYMBADES (OLIVAE), olives "swimming" in the brine; from COLYMBUS, swimming pool Combination of dishes, {Rx} 46 Commentaries on Apicius, p. 272 Commodus, a Roman, {Rx} 197 Compôte of early fruit, {Rx} 177 CONCHA, shellfish muscle, cockle scallop, pearl oyster; also the pearl itself, or mother-of-pearl; also any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell (cf. illustration, p. 125) hence CONCHA SALIS PURI, a salt cellar. Hence also CONCHIS, beans or peas cooked "in the shell" or in the pod; and diminutives and variations: CONCHICLA FABA, (bean in the pod) for CONCHICULA, which is the same as CONCHIS and CONCICLA; {Rx} 194-98, 411. ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 195; ---- DE PISA, {Rx} 196; ---- COMMODIANA, {Rx} 197; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 199 CONCHICLATUS, {Rx} 199 CONCRESCO, grow together, run together, thicken, congeal, also curdle, etc., same as CONCRETIO, CONCRETUM CONDIO, to salt, to season, to flavor; to give relish or zest, to spice, to prepare with honey or pepper, and also (since spicing does this very thing) to preserve CONDITIO, laying up, preserving. CONDITIVUS, that which is laid up or preserved, same as CONDITUM CONDITOR, one who spices. Ger. Konditor, a pastry maker CONDIMENTARIUS, spice merchant, grocer CONDIMENTUM, condiment, sauce, dressing, seasoning, pickle, anything used for flavoring, seasoning, pickling ---- VIRIDE green herbs, pot herbs; cf. CONDITURA. ---- PRO PELAMIDE, {Rx} 445; ---- PRO THYNNO, {Rx} 446; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 447; ---- IN RUBELLIONEM, {Rx} 448; ---- RATIO CONDIENDI MURENAS, {Rx} 449; ---- LACERTOS, {Rx} 456; ---- PRO LACERTO ASSO, {Rx} 457; ---- THYNNUM ET DENTICEM, {Rx} 458; ---- DENTICIS, {Rx} 460; ---- IN DENTICE ELIXO, {Rx} 461; ---- AURATA, {Rx} 462; ---- IN AURATAM ASSAM, {Rx} 463; ---- SCORPIONES, {Rx} 464; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466; ---- ALIUD ---- ANGUILLAE, {Rx} 467 CONDITUM, preserved, a preserve; cf. CONDIO; ---- MELIRHOMUM, {Rx} 2 ---- ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM, {Rx} 3 ---- PARADOXUM, {Rx} 1 ---- VIOLARUM, {Rx} 5 ---- Paradoxum, facsimile of Vat. Ms., p. 253 CONDITURA, a pickle, a preserve, sauce, seasoning, marinade; the three terms, C., CONDITUM and CONDIMENTUM are much the same in meaning, and are used indiscriminately. They also designate sweet dishes and desserts of different kinds, including many articles known to us as confections. Hence the German, KONDITOR, for confectioner, pastry cook. Nevertheless, a general outline of the specific meanings of these terms may be gathered from observing the nature of the several preparations listed under these headings, particularly as follows: ---- ROSATUM, {Rx} 4; (cf. No. 5) ---- MELLIS, {Rx} 17; ---- UVARUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM PUNICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- COTONIORUM, {Rx} 19; ---- FICUUM, PRUNORUM, PIRORUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MALORUM MEDICORUM, {Rx} 21; ---- MORORUM, {Rx} 25; ---- OLERUM, {Rx} 26; ---- RUMICIS, {Rx} 27; ---- LAPAE, {Rx} 27; ---- DURACINORUM, {Rx} 29; ---- PRUNORUM, etc., {Rx} 30 --in most of these instances corresponds to our modern "preserving" CONGER, CONGRIO, CONGRUS, sea-eel, conger. CONGRUM QUEM ANTIATES BRUNCHUM APPELLANT,--Platina, cf. ANGUILLA. Plautus uses this fish name to characterize a very cunning person, a "slippery" fellow. A cook is thus called CONGRIO in one of his plays CONILA, CUNILA, a species of the plant ORIGANUM, origany, wild marjoram. See SATUREIA CONYZA, the viscous elecampane Cook, COCUS, COQUUS is the most frequent form used, COCTOR, infrequent. COQUA, COCULA, female cook; though female cooks were few. The word is derived from COQUERE, to cook, which seems to be an imitation of the sound, produced by a bubbling mess The cook's work place (formerly ATRIUM, the "black" smoky room) was the CULINA, the kitchen, hence in the modern Romance tongues CUISINE, CUCINA, COCINA. Those who work there are CUISINIERS, COCINEROS, the female a CUISINIÈRE, and so forth The German and Swedish for "kitchen" are KÜCHE and KÖKET, but the words "cook" and "KOCH" are directly related to COQUUS A self-respecting Roman cook, especially a master of the art, having charge of a crew, would assume the title of MAGIRUS, or ARCHIMAGIRUS, chief cook. This Greek--"MAGEIROS"--plainly shows the high regard in which Greek cookery stood in Rome. No American CHEF would think of calling himself "chief cook," although CHEF means just that. The foreign word sounds ever so much better both in old Rome and in new New York. MAGEIROS is derived from the Greek equivalent of the verb "to knead," which leads us to the art of baking. Titles and distinctions were plentiful in the ancient bakeshops, which plainly indicates departmentisation and division of labor The PISTOR was the baker of loaves, the DULCIARIUS the cake baker, using honey for sweetening. Martial says of the PISTOR DULCIARIUS, "that hand will construct for you a thousand sweet figures of art; for it the frugal bee principally labors." The PANCHESTRARIUS, mentioned in Arnobius, is another confectioner. The LIBARIUS still another of the sweet craft. The CRUSTULARIUS and BOTULARIUS were a cookie baker and a sausage maker respectively The LACTARIUS is the milkman; the PLACENTARIUS he who makes the PLACENTA, a certain pancake, also a kind of cheese cake, often presented during the Saturnalia. The SCRIBLITARIUS belongs here, too: in our modern parlance we would perhaps call these two "ENTREMETIERS." The SCRIBLITA must have been a sort of hot cake, perhaps an omelet, a pancake, a dessert of some kind, served hot; maybe just a griddle cake, baked on a hot stone, a TORTILLA--what's the use of guessing! but SCRIBLITAE were good, for Plautus, in one of his plays, Poenulus, shouts, "Now, then, the SCRIBLITAE are piping hot! Come hither, fellows!" Not all of them did eat, however, all the time, for Posidippus derides a cook, saying, CUM SIS COQUUS, PROFECTUS EXTRA LIMEN ES, CUM NON PRIUS COENAVERIS, "What? Thou art a cook, and hast gone, without dinner, over the threshold?" From the FOCARIUS, the scullion, the FORNACARIUS, the fireman, or furnace tender, and the CULINARIUS, the general kitchen helper to the OBSONATOR, the steward, the FARTOR to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the "maître d'hôtel" of the establishment we see an organization very much similar to our own in any well-conducted kitchen The Roman cooks, formerly slaves in the frugal days of the nation, rose to great heights of civic importance with the spread of civilization and the advance of luxury in the empire. Cf. "The Rôle of the Mageiroi in the Life of the Ancient Greeks" by E. M. Rankin, Chic., 1907, and "Roman Cooks" by C. G. Harcum, Baltimore, 1914, two monographs on this subject Cookery, Apician, as well as modern c., discussed in the critical review of the Apicius book ---- examples of deceptive c. in Apicius, {Rx} 6, 7, 9, 17, 229, 230, 384, 429 ---- of flavoring and spicing, {Rx} 15, 277, 281, 369 ---- deserving special mention for ingenuity and excellence, {Rx} 15, 21, 22, 72, 88, 177, 186, 212, 213, 214, 250, 287, 315, 428 ---- modern Jewish, resembling Apicius, {Rx} 204 seq. ---- examples of attempts to remove disagreeable odors, {Rx} 212-14, 229, 230, 292 ---- removing sinews from fowl, {Rx} 213 ---- utensils, p. 15 Coote, C. T., commentator, pp. 19, 273 COPA, a woman employed in eating places and taverns, a bar maid, a waitress, an entertainer, may be all that in one person. One of the caricatures drawn on a tavern wall in Pompeii depicts a COPA energetically demanding payment for a drink from a reluctant customer, p. 7 COPADIA, dainties, delicate bits, {Rx} 125, 179, 180, 271, 276, seq., 355 Copper in Vegetable Cookery, {Rx} 66 Copyists and their work, p. 14 COQUINA, cooking, kitchen. COQUINARIS, --IUS, relating to the kitchen. COQUO, --IS, COXI, COCTUM, COQUERE, to cook, to dress food, to function in the kitchen, to prepare food for the table. See cook COR, heart CORDYLA, CORDILLA, {Rx} 419, 423 CORIANDRUM, the herb coriander; CORIANDRATUM, flavored with c.; LIQUAMEN EX CORIANDRO, coriander essence or extract Corn, green, {Rx} 99 CORNUM, cornel berry; "CORNA QUAE VERGILIUS LAPIDOSA VOCAT"--Platina CORNUTUS, horn-fish, {Rx} 442 CORRUDA, the herb wild sparrage, or wild asparagus CORVUS, a kind of sea-fish, according to some the sea-swallow. Platina describes it as a black fish of the color of the raven (hence the name), and ranks it among the best of fish, cf. STURNUS COTANA, see COCTANA COTICULA (CAUDA?), minor cuts of pork, either spareribs, pork chops, or pig's tails COTONEA, a herb of the CUNILA family, wallwort, comfrey or black bryony COTONEUM, COTONEUS, COTONIUS, CYDONIUS, quince-apple, {Rx} 163 COTULA, COTYLA, a small measure, 1/2 sextarius COTURNIX, quail COSTUM, COSTUS, costmary; fragrant Indian shrub, the root of burning taste but excellent flavor Court-bouillon, {Rx} 37, 138 Cow-parsnips, p. 188, {Rx} 115-122, 183 COXA, {Rx} 288 Crabs, {Rx} 485; crabmeat croquettes, {Rx} 44 Cracklings, p. 285, {Rx} 255 Crane, {Rx} 212, 213, p. 265. Crane with turnips, {Rx} 214-17 CRATER, CRATERA, a bowl or vessel to mix wine and water; also a mixing bowl and oil container--see illustrations, p. 140 CRATICULA, grill, gridiron; illustration, p. 182 Crême renversée, {Rx} 129, 143 CREMORE, DE--, {Rx} 172 CRETICUM HYSOPUM, {Rx} 29, Cretan hyssop CROCUS, --OS, --ON, --UM, saffron; hence CROCEUS, saffron-flavored, saffron sauce or saffron essence. CROCIS, a certain herb or flavor, perhaps saffron Croquettes, {Rx} 42, seq. Cucumber, CUCUMIS, {Rx} 82-84 CUCURBITA, pumpkin, gourd, {Rx} 73-80, 136 CULINA, kitchen; CULINARIUS, man employed in the kitchen; pertaining to the kitchen CULTER, a knife for carving or killing; the blade from 9 to 13 inches long CUMANA, earthen pot or dish; casserole, {Rx} 237 Cumberland sauce, {Rx} 345 CUMINUM, CYMINUM, cumin; CUMINATUM, --US, sauce or dish seasoned with cumin, {Rx} 39, 40. Aethiopian, Libyan, and Syriac cumin are named, {Rx} 178 CUNICULUS, rabbit, cony CUNILAGO, a species of origany, flea-bane, wild marjoram, basilica CUPELLUM, CUPELLA, dim., of CUPA, a small cask or tun. Ger. KUFE; a "cooper" is a man who makes them CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric Custard, brain, {Rx} 27; ---- nut, {Rx} 128, 142; ---- of vegetables and brain, {Rx} 130; ---- of elderberries, {Rx} 134; ---- rose, {Rx} 135; see also {Rx} 301 Cutlets, {Rx} 261, 471-3 Cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 406-8 CYAMUS, Egyptian bean CYATHUS, a measure, for both things liquid and things dry, which according to Pliny 21.109, amounted to 10 drachms, and, according to Rhem. Fann. 80., was the 12th part of a SEXTARIUS, roughly one twelfth pint. Also a goblet, and a vessel for mixing wine, {Rx} 131 CYDONIIS, PATINA DE, {Rx} 163, see also Malus CYMA, young sprout, of colewort or any other herb; also cauliflower, {Rx} 87-9-92 CYPERUS, CYPIRUS, a sort of rush with roots like ginger, see MEDIUM CYRENE, a city of Africa, famous for its Laser Cyrenaicum, the best kind of laser, which see. Also Kyrene D DACTYLIS, long, "finger-like" grape or raisin; --US, long date, fruit of a date tree, {Rx} 30 DAMA, a doe, deer, also a gazelle, antilope (DORCAS). In some places the chamois of the Alps is called DAMA DAMASCENA [PRUNA], plum or prune from Damascus, {Rx} 30. Either fresh or dried Danneil, E., editor, pp. 33-34, 35, 271 Dasheen, {Rx} 74, 152, 172, 216, 244, 322 Dates, stuffed, {Rx} 294 DAUCUM, --US, --ON, a carrot DE CHINE, see Dasheen "Decline of the West," p. 17 DECOQUO, to boil down DEFRUTARIUS, one who boils wine; CELLA DEFRUTARIA, a cellar where this is done, or where such wine is kept DEFRUTUM, DEFRICTUM, DEFRITUM, new wine boiled down to one half of its volume with sweet herbs and spices to make it keep. Used to flavor sauces, etc., see also Caramel color DENTEX, a sparoid marine fish, "Tooth-Fish," {Rx} 157, 459-60 Dessert Dishes, illustrations, pp. 61, 125 Desserts, absent, p. 43 Desserts, Apician, {Rx} 143, 294, seq. DIABOTANON PRO PISCE FRIXO, {Rx} 432 Diagram of Apician editions, p. 252 Didius Julianus, {Rx} 178 Dierbach, H. J., commentator, p. 273 Dining in Apician style, modern, p. 37 ---- in Rome, compared with today, pp. 17, 18 Diocles, writer, {Rx} 409 Dionysos Cup, illustration, p. 141 Dipper, illustrated, p. 3 DISCUS, round dish, plate or platter Disguising foods, {Rx} 133, pp. 33-4 Distillation, see Vinum Dormouse, {Rx} 396 Dory, {Rx} 157, 462-5 Doves, p. 265 Drexel, Theodor, collector, pp. 257-8 Dubois, Urbain, chef, p. 16 Duck, p. 265, {Rx} 212-3; ---- with turnips, {Rx} 214-7 DULCIA, sweets, cookies, confections, {Rx} 16, 216, 294-6 --RIUS, pastry cook, {Rx} 294 Dumas, Alexandre, cooking, p. 24 Dumpling of pheasant, {Rx} 48; ---- and HYDROGARUM, {Rx} 49; ---- with broth, plain, {Rx} 52, 181 DURACINUS, hard-skinned, rough-skinned fruit; ---- PERSICA, the best sort of peach, according to some, nectarines, {Rx} 28 E Early fruit, stewed, {Rx} 177 ECHINUS, sea-urchin, {Rx} 412-17 Economical methods: flavoring, {Rx} 15 EDO, to eat; great eater, gormandizer, glutton EDULA, chitterlings Eel, {Rx} 466-7 Egg Dish, illustration, p. 93 Eggs, {Rx} 326-28; ---- fried, {Rx} 336; ---- boiled, {Rx} 327; ---- poached, {Rx} 328; ---- scrambled with fish and oysters, {Rx} 159 Eglantine, {Rx} 171 Egyptian Bean, {Rx} 322; also see CYAMUS EIERKÄSE, {Rx} 125, 301 ELAEOGARUM, {Rx} 33 Elderberry custard, {Rx} 135 ELIXO, to boil, boil down, reduce. --US, --UM, boiled down, sodden, reduced. According to Platina an ELIXUM simply is a meat bouillon as it is made today. ELIXATIO, a court-bouillon, liquid boiled down; ELIXATURA, a reduction EMBAMMA, a marinade, a pickle or sauce to preserve food, to give it additional flavor; same as INTINCTUS, {Rx} 344 EMBRACTUM, EMPHRACTUM, a dish "covered over"; a casserole of some kind. E. BAIANUM, {Rx} 431 Endives, {Rx} 109 Enoche of Ascoli, medieval scholar, cf. Apiciana Entrées, potted, {Rx} 54, 55; ---- sauces, {Rx} 56; ---- of fish, poultry and sausage, {Rx} 139; ---- of fowl and livers, {Rx} 175 EPIMELES, careful, accurate; choice things. Title of Book I Erasmus of Rotterdam, Dialogue, p. 273 ERUCA, the herb rocket, a colewort, a salad plant, a mustard plant ERVUM, a kind of pulse like vetches or tares ESCA, meat, food, victuals; ESCO, to eat Escoffier, A. modern chef, writer, {Rx} 338 ESCULENTES, things good to eat ESTRIX, she-glutton ESUS, eating Every Day Dishes, {Rx} 128, 142 EXCERPTA A VINIDARIO, p. 235 Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius, pp. 21, 234 EXCOQUO, to boil out, to melt, to render (fats) F FABA, bean, pulse. ---- AEGYPTIACA, {Rx} 322; ---- IN FRIXORIO, string beans in the frying pan, Fr.: HARICOTS VERTS SAUTÉS; ---- VITELLIANA, {Rx} 189, 193 FABACIAE VIRIDES, green bean, {Rx} 202; ---- FRICTAE, {Rx} 203; ---- EX SINAPI, {Rx} 204 Fabricius, Albertus, bibliographer, pp. 258, seq., 268 "Fakers" of manuscripts, p. 13 FALSCHER HASE, {Rx} 384 FAR, corn or grain of any kind, also spelt; also a sort of coarse meal Farce, forcemeat, {Rx} 131 FARCIMEN, sausage, {Rx} 62-64 FARCIO, to fill, to stuff; also to feed by force, cram, fatten FARINA, meal, flour, {Rx} 173; --OSUS, mealy FARNEI FUNGI, {Rx} 309 FARRICA, {Rx} 173 FASEOLUS, PHASEOLUS, a bean; Ger.: Fisole, {Rx} 207 FARSILIS, FARTILIS, a rich dish, something crammed or fattened, {Rx} 131 FARTOR, sausage maker; keeper of animals to be fattened, {Rx} 166, 366 FARTURA, the fattening of animals; also the dressing used to stuff the bodies in roasting, forcemeat, {Rx} 166, 366 FATTENING FOWL, {Rx} 166, 366 FENICOPTERO, IN, {Rx} 220, 231 FENICULUM, FOENI--, fennel FENUM GRAECUM, FOEN--; the herb fenugreek, also SILICIA, {Rx} 206 FERCULUM, a frame or tray on which several dishes were brought in at once, hence a course of dishes FERULA, a rod or branch, fennel-giant; ---- ASA FOETIDA, same as LASERPITIUM FICATUM, fed or stuffed with figs, {Rx} 259-60 FICEDULA, small bird, figpecker, {Rx} 132 FICUS, fig, fig tree, FICULA, small fig Field herbs, {Rx} 107; Field salad, {Rx} 110; a dish of field vegetables, {Rx} 134 Fieldfare, a bird, {Rx} 497 Fig-fed pork, p. 285, {Rx} 259 Figpecker, a bird, {Rx} 132 Figs, to preserve, {Rx} 22 Filets Mignons, {Rx} 262 Filtering liquors, {Rx} 1 Financière garniture, {Rx} 166, 378 Fine ragout of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147 Fine spiced wine, {Rx} 1 Fish cookery, "The Fisherman," title of Book X; ---- boiled, {Rx} 432, 4, 5, 6, 455; ---- fried, herb sauce, {Rx} 433; ---- to preserve fried fish, {Rx} 13; ---- with cold dressing, {Rx} 486; ---- baked, {Rx} 476-7; ---- balls in wine sauce, {Rx} 145, 164; ---- fond, {Rx} 155; a dish of any kind of ----, {Rx} 149, 150, 156; ---- au gratin, {Rx} 143; ---- loaf, {Rx} 429; ---- liver pudding, {Rx} 429; ---- pickled, spiced, marinated, {Rx} 480; ---- oysters and eggs, {Rx} 157; ---- salt, any style, {Rx} 430, 431; ---- stew, {Rx} 153, 432; ---- sauce, acid, {Rx} 38-9 FISKE BOLLER, {Rx} 145, 41, seq. Flaccus, a Roman, {Rx} 372 Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2 Flavors and spices, often referred to, especially in text; instances of careful flavoring, {Rx} 15, 276-77. Flavoring with faggots, {Rx} 385, seq. Florence Mss. Apiciana VI, VII, VIII, IX FLORES SAMBUCI, elder blossoms Fluvius Hirpinus, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396; a man interested in raising snails, dormice, etc., for the table FOCUS, hearth, range; unusually built of brick, on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182 FOLIUM, leaf, aromatic leaves such as laurel, etc. ---- NARDI, several kinds, nard leaf. The Indian nard furnishes nard oil, the Italian lavender FONDULI, see SPHONDULI, {Rx} 114, 121 Food adulterations, pp. 33, 34 Food disguising and adulteration, p. 33, {Rx} 6, 7, 134, 147; ---- displayed in Pompeii, p. 7 Forcemeats, {Rx} 42, 172 Fowl, p. 265; a dish of, {Rx} 470; ---- and livers, {Rx} 174; various dishes and sauce, {Rx} 218, seq. Picking ----, {Rx} 233; Removing disagreeable odors from ----, {Rx} 229-30 French Dressing, {Rx} 112 French Toast, {Rx} 296 FRETALE, FRIXORIUM, FRICTORIUM, frying pan, illustrations, pp. 355, 366; cf. SARTAGO FRICTELLA, fritter; "A FRICTO DICI NULLA RATIO OBSTAT"--Platina. Ger. "Frikadellen" for meat balls fried in the pan. "De OFFELLIS, QUAS VEL FRICTELLAS LICET APPELLARE"--Platina FRICTORIUM, FRIXORIUM, same as FRETALE, frying pan FRISILIS, FRICTILIS, FUSILIS, {Rx} 131 FRITTO MISTO (It.), {Rx} 46 Friture, (Fr.) frying fat, {Rx} 42, seq. FRIXUS, roast, fried, also dried or parched, term which causes some confusion in the several editions Frontispice, 2nd Lister Edition, illustration, p. 156 Fronto, a Roman, {Rx} 246, 374 FRUGES, farinaceous dishes Fruit dishes, {Rx} 64, 72; Fruits, p. 210; ---- dried, Summary, p. 370 ---- Bowl illustration, pp. 61, 125 FRUMENTUM, grain, wheat or barley Frying, {Rx} 42, seq. Frying pans, illustrated, cf. FRETALE and SARTAGO Fulda Ms., cf. Apiciana FUNGUS, mushroom; --ULUS, small m.; see BOLETUS ---- FARNEI, {Rx} 309, seq. FURCA, a two-pronged fork; --ULA, --ILLA (dim.) a small fork. FUSCINA, --ULA, a three-pronged fork. Cf. "Forks and Fingerbowls as Milestones in Human Progress," by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, Aug., 1933, pp. 84-87 FURNUS, oven, bake oven. See illustration, p. 2 G Galen, writer, {Rx} 396, 410 GALLINA, hen; --ULA, little hen; --ARIUS, poulterer GALLUS, cock Game of all kinds, sauce for, {Rx} 349 ---- birds, {Rx} 218, seq. GANONAS CRUDAS, fish, {Rx} 153 GARATUM, prepared with GARUM, which see Gardener, The--Title of Book III, {Rx} 377 GARUM (Gr.: GARON) a popular fish sauce made chiefly of the scomber or mackerel, but formerly from the GARUS, hence the name, cf. p. 22, {Rx} 10, 33, 471 Mackerel is the oiliest fish, and plentiful, very well suited for the making of G. G. was also a pickle made of the blood and the gills of the tunny and of the intestines of mackerel and other fish. The intestines were exposed to the sun and fermented. This has stirred up controversies; the ancients have been denounced for the "vile concoctions," but garum has been vindicated by modern science as to its rational preparation and nutritive qualities. Codfish oil, for instance, has long been known for its medicinal properties, principally Vitamin D; this is being increased today by exposure to ultraviolet rays (just what the ancients did). The intestines are the most nutritious portions of fish G. still remains a sort of mystery. Its exact mode of preparation is not known. It was very popular and expensive, therefore was subject to a great number of variations in quality and in price, and to adulteration. For all these reasons GARUM has been the subject of much speculation. It appears that the original meaning of G. became entirely lost in the subsequent variations In 1933 Dr. Margaret B. Wilson sent the author a bottle of GARUM ROMANUM which she had compounded according to the formulae at her disposal. This was a syrupy brown liquid, smelled like glue and had to be dissolved in water or wine, a few drops of the G. to a glass of liquid, of which, in turn, only a few drops were used to flavor a fish sauce, etc. ---- SOCIORUM, the best kind of G.; ALEXGARI VITIUM, the cheap kind of G., cf. ALEX, HALEC. OENOGARUM, G. mixed with wine; HYDROGARUM G. mixed with water; OLEOGARUM, G. mixed with oil; OXYGARUM, G. mixed with vinegar GARUS, small fish from which the real GARUM was made GELO, cause to freeze, to congeal; GELU, jelly GELU IN PATINA, gelatine: "QUOD VULGO GELATINAM VOCAMUS"--Platina Georg, Carl, Bibliographer, p. 257 Gesamt-Katalog, bibliography, p. 261 Gesner, Conrad, Swiss scientist, bibliographer, polyhistor, see Schola Apitiana, p. 206 GETHYUM, --ON, same as PALLACANA, an onion Giarratano, C., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 19, 26, 271, 273 GINGIBER, ginger; also ZINGIBER, faulty reading of the "G" by medieval scribes GINGIDON, --IUM, a plant of Syria; according to Spengel the French carrot. Paulus Aegineta says: "BISACUTUM (SIC ENIM ROMANI GINGIDION APPELLANT) OLUS EST SCANDICI NON ABSIMILE," hence a chervil root, or parsnip, or oysterplant GLANDES, any kernel fruit, a date, a nut, etc. Glasse, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 127 GLIS, pl. GLIRES, dormouse, a small rodent, very much esteemed as food. GLIRARIUM, cage or place where they were kept or raised, {Rx} 396 Gluttons, p. 11 Goat, wild, {Rx} 346, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-3 Gollmer, R., editor, Apiciana, pp. 18, 35, 270 GONG for slaves, illustration, p. 151 Goose, p. 265; white sauce for, {Rx} 228 Grapes, to keep, {Rx} 19 Greek influence on Roman cookery, p. 12, seq. ---- Banquet, by Anacharsis, p. 8 Greek monographs, p. 43 Green beans, p. 247, {Rx} 202, 206 Greens, green vegetables, {Rx} 99 Grimod de la Reynière, writer, p. 4, cf. Mappa Gruel, p. 210; {Rx} 172, 200-1, seq. ---- and wine, {Rx} 179-80 GRUS, crane; GRUEM, {Rx} 212-3; ---- EX RAPIS, {Rx} 215-6 Gryphius, S., printer, Apiciana No. 6, facsimile of title, p. 263 Guégan, Bertrand, editor, p. 271, seq. Guinea Hen, {Rx} 239, cf. "Turkey Origin," by the author, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, for February and March, 1935, Chicago GULA, gluttony GUSTUS, taste; also appetizers and relishes and certain entrées of a meal, Hors d'oeuvres. Cf. CENA, {Rx} 174-77 H Habs, R., writer, p. 18 HAEDUS, HAEDINUS, kid, {Rx} 291-3, 355, seq. ---- SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360; ---- PARTHICUM, {Rx} 364; ---- TARPEIANUM, {Rx} 363; ---- LAUREATUM EX LACTE, {Rx} 365; ---- LASARATUM, {Rx} 496 HALEC, see ALEC HALIEUS, HALIEUTICUS, pertaining to fish; title of Book X, p. 356 Ham, fresh, p. 285, {Rx} 287-9 HAND-MILL, operated by Slaves, illustration, p. 60 HAPANTAMYNOS, {Rx} 497 Harcum, C. G., writer, see COQUUS Hard-skinned peaches, to keep, {Rx} 28 Hare, B. VIII, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- imitation, {Rx} 384; ---- braised, {Rx} 382-3; ---- different dressings, {Rx} 383; ---- Stuffed, {Rx} 384, 91; ---- white sauce for, {Rx} 385; ---- lights of, {Rx} 386-7; ---- liver, {Rx} 170; ---- in its own broth, {Rx} 388; ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389; ---- tidbits, kromeskis, {Rx} 390; ---- boiled, {Rx} 393; ---- spiced sauce, {Rx} 393; ---- sumptuous style, {Rx} 394; ---- spiced, {Rx} 395 Haricot of lamb, {Rx} 355 HARPAGO, a meat hook for taking boiled meat out of the pot, with five or more prongs; hence "harpoon." Cf. FURCA "Haut-goût" in birds, to overcome it, {Rx} 229-30 Headcheese, {Rx} 125 Heathcock, {Rx} 218, seq. HELENIUM, plant similar to thyme(?); the herb elecampane or starwort Heliogabalus, emperor, p. 11 HEMINA, a measure, about half a pint Henry VIII, of England, edict on kitchens, p. 156 HERBAE RUSTICAE, {Rx} 107 Herbs, pot herbs, to keep, {Rx} 25 Hildesheim Treasure, found in 1868, a great collection of Roman silverware, now in the Kaiser Friedrich Museum, Berlin, our illustrations show a number of these pieces, p. 43 Hip, dog-briar, {Rx} 171 HIRCOSIS AVIBUS, DE, {Rx} 229-30 Hirpinus, Fluvius, Roman, {Rx} 323, 396, who raised animals for the table HISPANUM, see Oleum HOEDUS, see HAEDUS HOLERA, pot herbs, {Rx} 25, 66; also OLERA and HOLISERA, from HOLUS HOLUS, OLUS, kitchen vegetables, particularly cabbage, {Rx} 99 Home-made sweets, {Rx} 294 Honey cakes, {Rx} 16 Honey Refresher, {Rx} 2; ---- cake, {Rx} 16; ---- to renew spoiled, {Rx} 17; testing quality of, {Rx} 18; ---- pap, {Rx} 181; see also Chap. XIII, Book VII Horace, writer, pp. 3, 4, 273, {Rx} 455 HORDEUM, barley Horned fish, {Rx} 442 Hors d'oeuvres, {Rx} 174; cf. GUSTUS HORTULANUS, gardener, Hortolanus, pork, {Rx} 378 Horseradish, {Rx} 102 House of the Oven in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 Humelbergius, Gabriel, editor, {Rx} 307; title page of his 1542 edition, p. 265 Hunter style, {Rx} 263 HYDROGARATA, foods, sauces prepared with GARUM (which see) and water, {Rx} 172 HYDROMELI, rain water and honey boiled down one third HYPOTRIMA, --IMMA, a liquid dish, soup, sauce, ragout, composed of many spiced things, {Rx} 35 HYSITIUM, ISICIUM, a mince, a hash, a sausage, forcemeat, croquette, {Rx} 41-56. The term "croquette" used by Gollmer does not fully cover H.; some indeed, resemble modern croquettes and kromeskis very closely. The ancients, having no table forks and only a few knives (which were for the servants' use in carving) were fond of such preparations as could be partaken of without table ware. The reclining position at table made it almost necessary for them to eat H.; such dishes gave the cooks an opportunity for the display of their skill, inventive ability, their decorative and artistic sense. As "predigested" food, such dishes are decided preferable to the "_grosses-pièces_," which besides energetic mastication require skillful manipulation of fork and knife; such exercise was unwelcome on the Roman couches. Modern nations, featuring "_grosses-pièces_" do this at the expense of high-class cookery. The word, H., is probably a medieval graecification of INSICIUM. Cf. ISICIA HYSSOPUS, the herb hyssop; H. CRETICUS, marjoram. Also Hysopum creticum, hyssop from the island of Creta, {Rx} 29 I IECUR, JECUR, liver; {Rx} 291-3. IECUSCULUM, small (poultry, etc.) liver Ihm, Max, writer, p. 19 Ill-smelling fish sauce, {Rx} 9; ditto birds, {Rx} 229-30 Indian peas, {Rx} 187 Ink-fish, {Rx} 405 INSICIA, chopped meat, sausage, forcemeat, dressing, stuffing for roasts, {Rx} 42; see Hysitia and Isicia; --ARIUS, sausage maker INTINCTUS, a sauce, seasoning, brine or pickle in which meat, etc., is dipped. See EMBAMMA, {Rx} 344 INTUBUS, INTYBUS, --UM, chicory, succory, endive, {Rx} 109 INULA HELENIUM, the herb elecampane or starwort ISICIA, see HYSITIA, {Rx} 41-54, 145 ---- AMULATA AB AHENO, {Rx} 54; ---- DE CAMMARIS, {Rx} 43; ---- DE CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 45; ---- DE LOLLIGINE, {Rx} 42; ---- DE SPONDYLIS, {Rx} 46; ---- DE PULLO, {Rx} 50; ---- DE SCILLIS, {Rx} 43; ---- HYDROGARATA, {Rx} 49; ---- PLENA, {Rx} 48; ---- SIMPLEX, {Rx} 52; ---- DE TURSIONE, {Rx} 145 Italian Salad, {Rx} 123 IUS, JUS, any juice or liquid, or liquor derived from food, a broth, soup, sauce. IUSCELLUM, more frequently and affectionately, IUSCULUM, the diminutive of I. ---- DE SUO SIBI, pan-gravy; such latinity as this proves the genuineness of the Apicius text, {Rx} 153; ---- IN DIVERSIS AVIBUS, {Rx} 210-228; ---- IN ELIXAM, {Rx} 271-7; ---- IN VENATIONIBUS, {Rx} 349, seq. ---- DIABOTANON, {Rx} 432; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433-6; ---- ALEXANDRINUM, {Rx} 437-9; ---- CONGRO, {Rx} 440; ---- IN CORNUTAM, {Rx} 441; ---- IN MULLOS, {Rx} 442-3; ---- PELAMYDE, {Rx} 444; ---- IN PERCAM, {Rx} 446; ---- IN MURENA, {Rx} 448, 449-52; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 454; ---- IN LACERTOS ELIXOS, {Rx} 455; ---- PISCE ASSO, {Rx} 456; ---- THYNNO, {Rx} 457; ---- ELIXO, {Rx} 458; ---- IN DENTICE ASSO, {Rx} 459-60; ---- IN PISCE AURATA, {Rx} 461-2; ---- IN SCORPIONE, {Rx} 463; ---- PISCE OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5; ---- ANGUILLAM, {Rx} 466-7 J Jardinière, {Rx} 378 JECINORA, {Rx} 291 Jewish Cookery, compared with Apician, {Rx} 205 Johannes de Cereto de Tridino, Venetian printer, p. 261 John of Damascus, see Torinus edition of 1541, Basel Julian Meal Mush, {Rx} 178 K Keeping meat and fish, {Rx} 10-14, seq. Kettner, writer, p. 38 Kid, p. 314, {Rx} 355, seq. ---- liver, {Rx} 291-93; ---- stew, {Rx} 355-8; ---- roast, {Rx} 359-62; ---- boned, {Rx} 360-1; ---- Tarpeius, {Rx} 363-4; ---- Prize, {Rx} 365; ---- plain, {Rx} 366; ---- laser, {Rx} 496 Kidney beans, {Rx} 207-8 King, Dr. W., writer, quoted: Introduction, pp. 38, 267 Kromeskis, {Rx} 44, 47, 60; cf. ISICIA and HYSITIA Kyrene, Cyrene, City of Northern Africa, see Laser L Labor item in cookery, pp. 18, 24 LAC, milk; ---- FISSILE, cottage cheese LACERTUS, a sea-fish, not identified, {Rx} 147, 152, 455-7 LACTARIS, having milk, made of milk; --IUS, dairyman LACTES, small guts, chitterlings LACTUA, LACTUCULA, lettuce, {Rx} 105, 109-11 LAGANUM, a certain farinaceous dish; small cake made of flour and oil, a pan cake LAGENA, --ONA, --OENA, --UNA, flask, bottle Lamb, {Rx} 291-3, 355-65, 495-6; preparations same as Kid, which see Lambecius, Petrus, writer, on "The Porker's Last Will," {Rx} 376 Lanciani, Rodolfo, writer, pp. 29, 30 Lancilotus, Blasius, co-editor, 1498-1503 editions, pp. 27-30, 41 --see also Tacuinus --facsimile of opening chapter, 1503, p. 232 Langoust, {Rx} 485 LANX, broad platter, dish, charger, {Rx} 455 LAPA, LAPATHUM, LAPADON, same as RUMEX, {Rx} 26 Larding, {Rx} 394 LARIDUM, LARDUM, {Rx} 147, 290; cf. SALSUM LASER, LASERPITIUM, --ICIUM, the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, also known as SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, Greek, SYLPHION. Some agree that this is our present asa foetida, while other authorities deny this. Some claim its home is in Persia, while others say the best LASER came from Cyrene (Kyrene), Northern Africa. The center picture of the so-called Arkesilas-Bowl of Vulci at Paris, Cab. d. Méd. 189, represents a picture as seen by the artist in Kyrene how King Arkesilas (VI. saec.) watches the weighing and the stowing away in the hold of a sailing vessel of a costly cargo of sylphium. It was an expensive and very much esteemed flavoring agent, and, for that reason, the plant which grew only in the wild state, was probably exterminated There is much speculation, but its true nature will not be revealed without additional information {Rx} 15, 31, 32, 34, 100; p. 22 Method of flavoring with laser-impregnated nuts, {Rx} 15 LASERATUS, LASARATUS, prepared or seasoned with LASER, or SILPHIUM Latin title of Vehling translation, opposite title page LAUREATUM, prepared with LAURUS; also in the sense of excellence in quality, {Rx} 365, 373 LAURUS CINNAMOMUM, cinnamon; ---- NOBILIS, laurel leaf, bay leaf La Varenne, French cook, p. 16 Laws, sumptuary, p. 25, {Rx} 166 Laxatives, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34 Leeks, p. 188, {Rx} 93-6; ---- and beans, {Rx} 96 LEGUMEN, leguminous plants; all kinds of pulse-peas, beans lentils, etc., Book V LENS, LENTICULA, lentils, {Rx} 183-4 LEPIDIUM SATIVUM, watercress LEPOREM MADIDUM, {Rx} 382, seq. ---- FARSUM, {Rx} 384; ---- PASSENIANUM, {Rx} 389; ---- ISICIATUM, {Rx} 390; ---- FARSILEM, {Rx} 391; ---- ELIXIUM, {Rx} 392; ---- SICCO SPARSUM, {Rx} 394; ---- LEPORIS CONDITURA, {Rx} 393-5 LEPUS, hare; LEPUSCULUM, young hare; LEPORARIUM, a place for keeping hare; LEPORINUM MINUTAL, minced hare, Hasenpfeffer, {Rx} 382-395 Lettuce, B. V, {Rx} 105, 109-111; ---- and endives, {Rx} 109; ---- purée of, {Rx} 130 LEUCANTHEMIS, camomile LEUCOZOMUS, "creamed," prepared with milk, {Rx} 250 Lex Fannia, {Rx} 166 Liaison, lié, {Rx} 54; cf. AMYLARE LIBELLI, little ribs, spare ribs, also loin of pork, {Rx} 251 LIBRA, weight, 1 pound (abb. "lb." still in use); LIBRAE, balances, scales LIBURNICUM, see oil, oleum LIGUSTICUM, lovage (from Liguria) also LEVISTICUM; identical with garden lovage, savory, basilica, satury, etc. LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370 LIQUAMEN, any kind of culinary liquid, depending upon the occasion. It may be interpreted as brine, stock, gravy, jus, sauce, drippings, marinade, natural juice; it must be interpreted in the broadest sense, as the particular instance requires. This much disputed term has been illustrated also in page 22. Also see {Rx} 9, 42 Liquids, Summary of, p. 370 ---- thickening of, by means of flour, eggs, etc., called Liaison, cf. AMYLARE Lister, Dr. Martinus, editor, edition of 1705, title page, ditto, verso of, ditto of 1709, p. 38; frontispice ---- quoted in many foot notes, {Rx} 8, seq. ---- assailing Torinus, p. 13, {Rx} 15, 26, 100, 205 ---- edition, 1709, facsimile, p. 250 Liver kromeskis, {Rx} 44; fig-fed, of pig, {Rx} 259-60; ---- and lungs, {Rx} 291-3; ---- hash, {Rx} 293; ---- of fish, see GARUM and Pollio Lobster, {Rx} 398, 399, 400, 401, 2; in various ways LOCUSTA, a langoust, spiny lobster, large lobster without claws; {Rx} 397-402, 485; ---- ASSAE, {Rx} 398; ---- ELIXAE, {Rx} 399, 401-2 Loins, p. 285, {Rx} 286 LOLIGO, LOLLIGO, calamary, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 42, 405 LOLIUM, LOLA, darnel, rye-grass, ray-grass, meal. The seeds of this grass were milled, the flour or meal believed to possess some narcotic properties, as stated by Ovid and Plautus, but recent researches have cast some doubt upon its reported deleterious qualities. Apicius, {Rx} 50, reads LOLAE FLORIS LONGANO, a blood sausage, {Rx} 61. The LONGANONES PORCINOS EX IURE TARENTINO in {Rx} 140 is a part of the PATINA EX LACTE; a pork sausage made in Tarent of the straight gut, the rectum. Lister says they are cooked in Tarentinian sauce and are not unlike the sausage called APEXABO and HILLA. These sausages were in vogue before the Italians learned to make them; it was in Epirus, Greece, that they were highly developed. Their importation into Rome caused quite a stir, politically. Lister, {Rx} 50, p. 119, describes the sausage and calls the inhabitants of Tarent "most voluptuous, soft and delicate" because Juvenal, Sat. VI, v. 297, takes a shot at Tarent This part of Italy, and especially Sicily, because in close contact with Greece was for many years much farther advanced in art of cookery than the North Lucania, district of lower Italy whence came the Lucanian sausage, p. 172, {Rx} 61; see also LONGANO LUCIUS FLUVIALIS, a river fish, perch, or pike, according to some; Platina also calls it LICIUS. Cf. MERULA Lucretian Dish, {Rx} 151 Lucullus, Roman general, proverbial glutton, has a place here because of his importation into Rome of the cherry, which he discovered in Asia Minor. He cannot be expected to be represented in the Apicius book because he died 57 B.C. LUCUSTA, see LOCUSTA LUMBUS, loin, (Ger. LUMMEL), {Rx} 286; LUMBELLI, {Rx} 255 Lung, {Rx} 291-2 LUPINUS, lupine LUPUS, fish, {Rx} 158 M MACELLARIUS, MACELLINUS, market man, butcher MACELLUM, market MACERO, to soak, soften, steep in liquor, macerate; MACERATUM, food thus treated MACTRA, trough for kneading dough MAGIRUS, MAGEIROS, cook, see COQUUS MALABATHRUM --THRON, {Rx} 32, 399 Mallows, {Rx} 86 MALUS, fruit tree, apple tree; ---- PUNICORUM, pomegranate; ---- ASSYRIA, ---- CITRUS DECUMANA, one of the larger citrus fruits; ---- MEDICA, citron tree; ---- CYDONIA, quince tree MALUM, fruit, an apple, but quinces, pomegranates, peaches, oranges, lemons, and other fruits were likewise designated by this name. {Rx} 18, 20. See also CITRUM It is remarkable that Apicius does not specifically speak of lemons and oranges, fruits that must have grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable to modern cookery MALUM PUNICUM, {Rx} 20, 21; ---- CYDONIUM, {Rx} 21; ---- GRANATUM, {Rx} 20; ---- MEDICUM, {Rx} 24; ---- ROSEUM, {Rx} 178, 171. This name, which according to Schuch simply stands for a rose-colored apple, has led to the belief that the ancients made pies, etc., of roses. Today a certain red-colored apple is known as "Roman Beauty." We concur in Schuch's opinion, remembering, however, that the fruit of the rose tree, namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine, is made into dainty confections on the Continent today. It is therefore quite possible that MALUM ROSEUM stands for the fruit of the rose MANDUCO, to chew, to munch, to enjoy food by munching; a glutton MAPPA, table napkin (Fr. nappe). M. is a Punic word, according to Quintil. 1, 5, 57 Each banquet guest brought with him from his own home such a napkin or cloth which he used during the banquet to wipe his mouth and hands. The ancients, evidently, were conscious of the danger of infection through the common use of napkins and table ware. Sometimes they used their napkins to wrap up part of the meal and to give it to their slaves to carry home in. Horace, Martial, Petronius attest to this fact. The banquet guests also employed their own slaves to wait on them at their Host's party. This custom and the individual napkin habit have survived until after the French revolution. Grimod de la Reynière, in his Almanach des Gourmands, Paris, 1803, seq., describes how guests furnished their own napkins and servants for their own use at parties to which they were invited This rather sensible custom relieved the host of much responsibility and greatly assisted him in defraying the expenses of the dinner. On the other hand it reveals the restrictions placed upon any host by the general shortage of table ware, table linen, laundering facilities in the days prior to the mechanical age Marcellus, a Roman physician, {Rx} 29 Marinade, pickle; a composition of spices, vegetables, herbs, and liquids, such as vinegar, wine, to preserve meats for several days and to impart to it a special flavor, {Rx} 11, 236, 244, 394; cf. EMBAMMA MARJORANA, marjoram Marmites, illustrated, pp. 264, 284, 312, 342 MARRUBIUM, the plant horehound Martial, writer, p. 10, {Rx} 307, 461 (on bulbs) Martino, Maestro, p. 3, cf. Vehling: Martino and Platina, Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, October, 1932, and Platina, Maestro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, Cremona, 1935 Mason, Mrs., a writer, {Rx} 126 MASTIX, MASTICE, MASTICHE, the sweet-scented gum of the mastiche-tree; hence MASTICATUS, MASTICINUS for foods treated with M. Matius, a writer, was a friend of Julius Caesar. His work is lost, {Rx} 167; apples named after him, _ibid._ MAYONNAISE DE VOLAILLE EN ASPIC, {Rx} 126, 480 Meal mush, Book V, {Rx} 178 Measures, liquid. The following list is confined to terms used in Apicius PARTES XV equal 1 CONGIUS CONGIUS I equal 6 SEXTARII (1 S. equals about 1-1/2 pt. English) SEXTARII II equal 1 CHOENIX SEXTARIUS I equal 2 HEMINAS HEMINA I equal 4 ACETABULA ACETABULUM I equal 12 CYATHI (15 Attic drachms) CYATHUS I equal 1/12 SEXTARIUS (a cup) COCHLEAR I equal 1/4 CYATHUS (a spoonful) COTULA, COTYLA, same as HEMINA, same as 1/2 SEXTARIUS QUARTARIUS I equal 1/4 pint Meat ball, {Rx} 261, seq. ---- with laser, {Rx} 472-3; meat, boiled, stewed, {Rx} 271; keeping of, {Rx} 10, 13; how to make pickled meat sweet, {Rx} 12; to decorate or garnish, {Rx} 394, (see marinade); meat pudding, {Rx} 42; ---- loaf, {Rx} 384, 172 Meat displayed in windows, p. 73; ancient ---- diet, p. 31; ancient ---- supply, p. 31 Meat diet, ancient, pp. 30, 31 Meat supply, ancient and modern, p. 31 Medicinal formulae in Apicius, {Rx} 4, 5, 6, 29, 34, 67, 68, 68, 70, 71, 108, 111, 307 MEDIUM, an iris or lily root which was preserved (candied) with honey, same as ginger, or fruit glacé Medlar, {Rx} 159; see MESPILA Megalone, place where Torinus found the Apicius codex, p. 266 MEL, honey; MELLITUM, sweetened with honey ---- PRAVUM, {Rx} 15; ---- PROBANDUM, {Rx} 16; ---- ET CASEUM, {Rx} 303 MELCAE, {Rx} 294, 303 MELEAGRIS, Turkey; cf. Vehling: "Turkey Origin," Hotel Bulletin and The Nation's Chefs, Chicago, February-March, 1935 MELIRHOMUM, MELIZOMUM, {Rx} 2 MELO, small melon, B. III, {Rx} 85; MELOPEPO, muskmelon Melon, {Rx} 85 MENSA, repast, see CENA MENTHA, MINTHA, mint; ---- PIPERITA, peppermint "Menu," cf. Brevis Ciborum, Excerpts of Vinidarius, p. 235 Merling, see MERULA MERULA, MERLUCIUS, cf. LUCIUS, a fish called merling, whiting, also smelt; Fr. MERLAN; also blackbird. Platina discussed MERULA, the blackbird, the eating of which he disapproves. "There is little food value in the meat of blackbirds and it increases melancholia," says he. Perhaps because the bird is "black," {Rx} 419 MERUS, MERUM, pure, unmixed, "mere," "merely"; hence MERUM VINUM, ---- OLEUM, pure wine, oil, etc. MESPILA, medlar; Ger. MISPEL Milan edition, Colophon, p. 260 Milk Toast, {Rx} 171 Mill operated by slaves, illustration, p. 60 Minced dishes, Book II Mineral salts in vegetables, {Rx} 71, 96 MINUTAL, a "small" dish, a "minutely" cut mince; ---- MARINUM, {Rx} 164; ---- TARENTINUM, {Rx} 165; ---- APICIANUM, {Rx} 166; ---- MATIANUM, {Rx} 167; ---- DULCE, {Rx} 168; ---- EX PRAECOQUIS, {Rx} 169; ---- LEPORINUM, {Rx} 170; ---- EX ROSIS, {Rx} 171; ---- of large fruits, {Rx} 169 MITULIS, IN, {Rx} 418 Mixing bowls, see Crater Monk's Rhubarb, {Rx} 26 "Monkey," {Rx} 55 Moralists, ancient, see Review MORETUM, salad, salad dressing of oil, vinegar, garlic, parsley, etc., cf. {Rx} 38 Morsels, {Rx} 261, seq., 309, seq. MORTARIA, foods prepared in the mortar, MORTARIUM, {Rx} 38, 221 MORUS, mulberry; ---- ALBA, white m. ---- NIGRA, black m. Platina, DE MORIS, has a very pretty simile, comparing the various stages of ripening and colors of the mulberry to the blushing of Thysbes, the Egyptian girl, {Rx} 24 Moulds, {Rx} 384, 126 MUGIL, sea-mullet, {Rx} 159, 419, 424, 425 Mulberries, {Rx} 24 Mullet, see MULLUS, {Rx} 148, 428, 443-4 MULLUS, the fish mullet, {Rx} 148, 427, 442, 443, 482-4 MULSUM, mead, honey-wine; ---- ACETUM, honey-vinegar Munich Ms. XVIII Apiciana MURENA, MURAENA, the sea fish murena, p. 356, {Rx} 448-53, 484 MUREX, shellfish, purple-fish MURIA, brine, salt liquor, p. 22, {Rx} 30; cf. ALEC Mush, {Rx} 178 Mushrooms, B. III, {Rx} 121, 309-14; ---- Omelette, {Rx} 314 Muskrat, {Rx} 396 Mussels, {Rx} 418 MUSTEIS PETASONEM, {Rx} 289 MUSTEOS AFROS, {Rx} 295 MUSTUM, fresh, young, new; ---- VINUM, must, new wine; ---- OLEI, new oil MYRISTICA, nutmeg MYRRHIS ODORATA, myrrh, used for flavoring wine MYRTUS, myrtle berry, often called "pepper" and so used instead of pepper MYRTUS PIMENTA, allspice N NAPKINS, individual, see MAPPA NAPUS, p. 188, a turnip, navew, {Rx} 100-1 NARDUS, nard, odoriferous plant; see FOLIUM NASTURTIUM, the herb cress NECHON, {Rx} 16 Neck, roast, {Rx} 270 NEPATA, cat-mint; ---- MONTANA, mountain mint; see MENTHA Nero, emperor, p. 11 Nettles, {Rx} 108 New York codex, No. I, Apiciana Newton, Sir Isaac, scientist, Apiciana No. 8, p. 268 NITRIUM, {Rx} 66 Nonnus, writer, {Rx} 307, 396 NOVENDIALES, see CENA NUCEA LASERIS, {Rx} 16; also see LASER NUCLEUS, nut, kernel, {Rx} 92 NUCULA, dim. of NUX, small nut; also a certain muscular piece of meat from the hind leg of animals, Fr. NOIX DE VEAU, as of veal, Ger. KALBSNUSS, and a certain small part of the loin of animals, Fr. NOISETTE NUMIDICUS, PULLUS, guinea hen, which see Nut custard, turn-over, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- porridge, {Rx} 297-9; ---- pudding, {Rx} 298, 299, 230; ---- meal mush, {Rx} 300 Nuts, Summary of, p. 236 NUX, p. 236, a nut, both hazel nut and walnut; ---- JUGLANDIS, walnut; ---- PINEIS, ---- PINEA, pine nuts, pignolia; ---- MUSCATA, nutmeg O OBLIGABIS, {Rx} 83; also see AMYLARE OBSONARE, to provide, to buy for the table; to prepare or to give a dinner; from the Greek, OPSON OBSONATOR, steward OBSONIUM, OP--, a dish, a meal, anything eaten with bread OCIMUM, --YMUM, --UMUM, OCINUM, basil, basilica; also a sort of clover OENOGARUM, wine and GARUM (which see), a wine sauce, {Rx} 33, 146, 465; OENOGARATUM, a dish prepared with O. OENOMELI, wine and honey OENOPOLIUM, wine shop; a wine dealer's place, who, however, did a retail business. The TABERNA VINARIA seems to have been the regular wine restaurant, while the THERMOPOLIUM specialized in hot spiced wines. Like today in our complicated civilization, there were in antiquity a number of different refreshment places, each with its specialties and an appropriate name for the establishment OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81 OFFA, OFFELLA, OFELLA, a lump or ball of meat, a "Hamburger Steak," a meat dumpling, any bit of meat, a morsel, chop, small steak, collop, also various other "dainty" dishes, consisting principally of meat "INTER OS ET OFFAM MULTA INTERVENIUNT"--Cato; the ancient equivalent for our "'twixt cup and lip there is many a slip" {Rx} 261; ---- APICIANA, {Rx} 262; ---- APRUGNEA MORE, {Rx} 263; ---- ALIAE, {Rx} 264-5; ---- LASERATA, {Rx} 271; ---- GARATAS, {Rx} 471-74; ---- ASSAS, {Rx} 472, 473 Oil substitute, {Rx} 9; ---- oil, to clarify for frying {Rx} 250 ---- Liburnian, {Rx} 7 OLEUM, oil, olive oil; ---- LIBURNICUM, {Rx} 7; HISPANUM, Spanish olive oil OLEATUS, moistened, mixed, dressed with oil, 103; ---- MOLLE, vegetables strained, a purée, {Rx} 103-106; also HOLUS, etc. OLIFERA, OLYRA, a kind of corn, spelt, {Rx} 99; see OLUS OLIVA, olive, {Rx} 30, 91; to keep olives green, {Rx} 30 OLLA, a cook pot, a terra-cotta bowl; see also CACCABUS. OLLULA, a small O., a casserole, or cassolette. Sp. OLLA PODRIDA, "rotten pot" OLUS, OLUSATRUM, OLUSTRUM, OLUSCULUM, OLERA, OLISERA, OLIFERA, OLISATRA, any herb, kitchen greens, pot herbs, sometimes cabbage, from OLITOR, the truck farmer, {Rx} 25, 67, 99, 103 OLUS ET CAULUS, cabbage and cale, {Rx} OLUSATRUM, see OLUS Omelette with sardines, {Rx} 146; ---- with mushrooms, {Rx} 314; ---- Soufflée, {Rx} 302 OMENTUM, caul, the abdominal membrane, used for sausage-making or to wrap croquettes (kromeskis) which then were OMENTATA, {Rx} 43, 47 Onions, {Rx} 304-8 OPERCULUM, a cover, lid, or dish with a cover Opossum, {Rx} 396 ORIGANUM MARJORANA, marjoram; ---- origany; ---- VINUM, wine flavored with O. ORYZA, rice, rice flour; see RISUM OSPREON, OSPREOS, OSPRION, legumes, Title of Book V Ostia, town, harbor of Rome; the OFFELLAE OSTIENSIS, {Rx} 261, are the ancient "Hamburgers"; this seems to confirm the assumption that the population of sea-port towns have a preference for meat balls OSTREA, oyster, {Rx} 15, 410; --RIUM, oyster bed or pit, or place for keeping oysters Ostrich, {Rx} 210-11 Oval pan, illustration, p. 159 Oval service dish, p. 43 Oven, ancient bakery in Pompeii, illustration, p. 2 OVIS SYLVATICA, OVIFERO, wild sheep, {Rx} 348-50 OVUM, egg; OVA SPHONGIA EX LACTE, {Rx} 302 OXALIS, sorrel OXALME, acid pickle, vinegar and brine Oxford Mss., Apiciana X, XI OXYCOMIUM, pickled olive OXYGALA, curdled with curds OXYGARUM, vinegar and GARUM, which see, {Rx} 36, 37 OXYPORUS, easily digested, {Rx} 34 OXYZOMUM, seasoned with acid, vinegar, lemon, etc. Oyster sauce, CUMINATUM, {Rx} 41 Oysters, how to keep, {Rx} 14, 410, 411 ---- shipped by Apicius, p. 10 P PALLACANA CEPA, shallot, young onion; cf. CEPA Pallas Athene Dish, The Great, illustration, p. 158 PALMA, PALMITA, palm shoots PALUMBA, wood pigeon, {Rx} 220 Pan with decorated handle, p. 73 Panada, {Rx} 127 PANAX, PANACEA, the herb all-heal; it contains a savory juice like LASER and FERULA PANDECTES, --ER, a book on all sorts of subjects; Title of Book IV PANIS, bread, PICENTINUS, {Rx} 126 Pans, kitchen, see illustrations, pp. 155, 159 Pap, {Rx} 172-3, 182 PAPAVER, poppy-seed; ---- FICI, fig-seed PARADOXON, CONDITUM, {Rx} 1 Parboiling, {Rx} 119 Paris Mss., Apiciana III, IV Parrot, {Rx} 231-2 Parsnips, {Rx} 121-3 PARTHIA, {Rx} 191, 237, 364; a country of Asia Partridge, {Rx} 218, seq., 499 Passenius, --anus, an unidentified Roman, {Rx} 389 PASSER, a sea-fish, turbot; also a sparrow which Platina does not recommend for the table PASSUM, raisin wine PASTINACA, --CEA, parsnip, carrot, {Rx} 121-3; also a fish, the sting-ray Pastry, absent, p. 43 PATELLA, a platter or dish on which food was cooked and served, corresponding to our gratin dishes; a dish in general. In this sense it is often confused with PATINA, which see, so that it has become difficult to distinguish between the two terms ---- THIROTARICA, {Rx} 144; ---- ARIDA, {Rx} 145; ---- EX OLISATRO, {Rx} 145a; ---- SICCA, {Rx} 145 PATELLARIUS, pertaining to a PATELLA; also one who makes or sells dishes, and, in the kitchen, also a dishwasher; cf. PATINARIUS PATINA, PATENA, a pot, pan, dish, plate; also food, eating, a dish, or cookery in general in which sense it corresponds to our "cuisine" PATINARIUS, a glutton, gormandizer, also a pile of dishes, also the craftsman who makes and the merchant who sells dishes as well as the scullion who washes them PATINA APICIANA, {Rx} 141; ---- APUA, {Rx} 138-9, 146; ---- DE ASPARAGIS, {Rx} 132-33; ---- DE CYDONIIS, {Rx} 163; ---- EX LACTE, {Rx} 140; ---- EX LARIDIS ET CEREBELLIS, {Rx} 147; ---- FRISILIS, {Rx} 131; ---- EX RUSTICIS, {Rx} 134; ---- DE ROSIS, {Rx} 136; ---- DE LACERTIS, {Rx} 152; ---- DE LUPO, {Rx} 158; ---- DE PERSICIS, {Rx} 160; ---- EX URTICA, {Rx} 162; ---- EX SOLEIS, {Rx} 154; ---- EX PISCIBUS, {Rx} 155-7, 486; ---- MULLIS, {Rx} 148; ---- QUIBUSLIBET, {Rx} 149; ---- ALIA PISCIUM, {Rx} 150; ---- SOLEARUM EX OVIS, {Rx} 487; ---- QUOTIDIANA, {Rx} 122, 142; ---- VERSATILIS, {Rx} 129, 143; ---- ZOMORE, {Rx} 153; ---- DE PIRIS, {Rx} 161; ---- DE SORBIS, {Rx} 159; ---- DE SAMBUCO, {Rx} 135; ---- DE CUCURBITIS, {Rx} 137 PAVO, peacock, {Rx} 54 Peaches, a dish of, {Rx} 160 Peacock, Book VI, {Rx} 54 Pears, {Rx} 22, 161 Peas, p. 247, {Rx} 185-6, 190-2; ---- a tempting dish of, {Rx} 192; ---- Indian, {Rx} 187; ---- purée of peas, cold, {Rx} 188; ---- or beans à la Vitellius, {Rx} 189, 193; ---- in the pod, Apician style, {Rx} 194-6; ---- in the pod à la Commodus, {Rx} 197; purée of peas with brains and chicken, {Rx} 198 PECTINE, scallop, {Rx} 52 Peeling young vegetables, {Rx} 69 PELAMIS, young tunny, {Rx} 426, 444 Pennell, Elizabeth R., writer, pp. 17, 18, 257-58 PEPON, a kind of gourd, melon or pumpkin, {Rx} 85 Pepper, {Rx} 1; ---- for other spices, {Rx} 143, 177, 295, seq. PERCA, perch, {Rx} 446 Perch, {Rx} 446 PERDICE, IN, {Rx} 218 PERDRIX, partridge, {Rx} 218, seq., 499 PERNA, ham; pork forequarter or hindquarter, {Rx} 287, 288 ---- APRUGNA, {Rx} 338 PERSICUM, peach, {Rx} 29, 160; --US, peach-tree Persons named in recipes, pp. 11, 21 PETASO, fresh ham, hind leg of pork, {Rx} 289 Petits pois à la française, {Rx} 185 Petits salés, {Rx} 41, 147, 149, 150, 151 Petronius Arbiter, writer, pp. 3, 7, 11, 15 PETROSELINUM, parsley PHARIAM, UVAM PASSAM, {Rx} 197 PHASEOLUS, FASEOLUS, green string beans, kidney bean, young bean and pod, both green and wax bean varieties. Ger. FISOLE and FASOLE, {Rx} 207 PHASIANUS, pheasant; --ARIUS, one who has care of or who raises pheasants, game-keeper, {Rx} 49, p. 265 Pheasant, dumplings of, {Rx} 48; -- plumage as decoration, {Rx} 213 Phillipps, bibl. Apiciana I PHOENICOPTERUS, Flamingo, {Rx} 220, 231-2 Picentinian bread, {Rx} 126 Pichon, Baron J., collector, pp. 257-8, Apiciana, Nos. 21-22, p. 272 Picking birds, {Rx} 233 Pie chimneys, {Rx} 141 Pig, see PORCELLUM PIPER, pepper; ---- NIGRUM, black p.; ---- VIRIDUM, green p., {Rx} 134; "pepper" for other spices, {Rx} 143, 177, 295, seq. --ATUS, prepared with p. PIPERITIS, pepperwort, Indian pepper, capsicum PIPIO, a young bird, a squab; from the chirping or "peeping" sounds made by them; ---- EXOSSATUS, boned squab PIRUM, pear, {Rx} 160-1 PISA, --UM, peas, pea, {Rx} 185, seq., 190-2, 195-8; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 186; ---- INDICAM, {Rx} 187; ---- FRIGIDA, {Rx} 188; --M VITELLIANAM, {Rx} 189, 193; ---- ADULTERAM, {Rx} 192 PISCINA, fish pond, fish tank, which was found in every large Roman household to keep a supply of fresh fish on hand PISCIS, fish; PISCES FRIXOS, {Rx} 476-7; ---- SCORPIONES RAPULATOS, {Rx} 475; ---- ASSOS, {Rx} 478; ---- OENOTEGANON, {Rx} 479, 81; ---- IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS, {Rx} 486; ---- IN PISCE ELIXO, {Rx} 433, 434, 435, 436, 454; ---- AURATA, {Rx} 461; ---- ASSA, {Rx} 462; ---- OENOGARUM, {Rx} 464-5 PISTACIUM, --EUM, pistache PISTOR, baker, pastry cook, confectioner, see COQUUS Pitch, for sealing of vessels, {Rx} 25 PLACENTA, a certain cake, a cheese cake Plaster in bread, p. 39 ---- for sealing of pots, {Rx} 23 Platina, Bartolomeo, humanist, writer, pp. 8, 9, 19, Apiciana No. 6, and often quoted in this index. Author of first printed Cookery book. Cf. Martino and Platina Exponents of Renaissance Cookery, by J. D. Vehling. Cf. Cibarium, Cornum, Corvus, Frictella, Merula, Morus, Passer, Ranae, Risum, Sturnus, Styrio, Thinca, Thymus, Zanzerella Plato, writer, p. 12 Platters, Roast, p. 219; Athene, p. 158 Plautus, writer, p. 147; ---- naming cooks, {Rx} 484; Plautian Latinity, {Rx} 153 Pliny, writer, p. 31, {Rx} 307, 396, 410 Plumage of birds as a decoration, {Rx} 213 Plums, {Rx} 22 Plutarch, writer, pp. 3, 66, 128 Poggio, medieval scholar, at Fulda, p. 20 POLEI, POLEGIUM, PULEIUM, penny-royal, flea-bane, flea-wort POLENTA, peeled or pearled barley, {Rx} 178 Pollio, Roman, feeding human flesh to fish, {Rx} 484 POLYPODIUM, the herb fern or polypody POLYPUS, the fish polypus, {Rx} 410 POLYTELES, POLI--, fine dishes, trimmed, set off; "Recherché" food; Title of Book VII Pomegranates, to keep, {Rx} 20 Pompeii: Casa di Forno. See p. 2 ---- destroyed, p. 3, seq. ---- Wine Room, illustration, p. 124 Pompeii, city, description of, see Review. Innkeeper at ---- advertising ham, {Rx} 287; objects, table ware, etc., found at P., see list of illustrations POMUM, fruit of any tree, as apples, pears, peaches, cherries, figs, dates, nuts, also mulberries and truffles. Cf. MALUM, p. 370 PONTUS, Black Sea Region PORCA, PORCUS, female and male swine; PORCELLUS, PORCELLINUS, young s., pig, {Rx} 336-81, 488-94; ---- PORCELLUM FARSILEM, {Rx} 366, 367; ---- ASSUM, {Rx} 369; ---- ELIXUM, {Rx} 368; ---- APICIANUM, {Rx} 370; ---- VITELLIANUM, {Rx} 371; ---- LAUREATUM, {Rx} 373; ---- FRONTINIANUM, {Rx} 374; ---- CELSINIANUM, {Rx} 376, 377; ---- HORTULANUM, {Rx} 378; ---- ELIXUM IUS FRIGIDUM, {Rx} 379; ---- TRAIANUM, {Rx} 380; ---- CORIANDRATUM, {Rx} 488; ---- FLACCIANUM, {Rx} 372; ---- OENOCOCTUM, {Rx} 489; ---- EO IURE, {Rx} 490; ---- THYMO SPARSUM, {Rx} 491; OXYZOMUM, {Rx} 492; ---- LASARATUM, {Rx} 493; ---- IUSCELLATUM, {Rx} 494; ---- ASSUM TRACTOMELINUM, {Rx} 369; ---- LACTE PASTUM, {Rx} 370; ---- IN PORCELLO LACTANTE, {Rx} 381 Pork, p. 285; ---- and onions à la Lucretius, {Rx} 151; ---- skin, cracklings, {Rx} 251-55; ---- udder, {Rx} 251; ---- tenderloin, {Rx} 251-255; ---- tails and feet, {Rx} 251; ---- fig-fed, {Rx} 259; ---- cutlets, Hunter Style, {Rx} 263; ---- paunch, {Rx} 285; ---- loin and kidneys, {Rx} 286; ---- shoulder, {Rx} 287-88; ---- fresh ham, {Rx} 289; ---- bacon, {Rx} 290; ---- Salt ---- {Rx} 290; ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 366 Porker, The ----'s Last Will and Testament, {Rx} 376 Porridge, Books IV, V, {Rx} 172, 178; ---- and wine sauce, {Rx} 179; ---- another, {Rx} 180 PORRUM, --US, leek, {Rx} 93, 96; "SECTILE ----"--Martial PORTULACA, PORCILACA, purslane POSCA, originally water and vinegar or lemon juice. It became an acid drink of several variations, made with wine, fruit juice, eggs and water Pot Roast, {Rx} 270 Potherbs, to keep, {Rx} 25, 188, see OLUS Potted Entrées, {Rx} 54 POTUS, drink PRAECOQUO, --OCTUS, --OCIA, "cooked beforehand," also ripened too early, but the present kitchen term is "blanching," or "parboiling." Cf. PRAEDURO PRAEDURO, to harden by boiling, to blanch, {Rx} 119 Preserves, several in Book I Preserving (keeping of) meats, {Rx} 10-12; ---- fried fish, {Rx} 13; ---- fruit, figs, prunes, pears, etc., {Rx} 19-24, 28, 29, 30; ---- grapes, {Rx} 19; ---- honey cakes, {Rx} 16; ---- mulberries, {Rx} 24; ---- oysters, {Rx} 14; ---- pomegranates, {Rx} 20; ---- pot herbs, {Rx} 25; ---- quinces, {Rx} 21; ---- sorrel, sour dock, {Rx} 26; ---- citron, {Rx} 23; ---- truffles, {Rx} 27; ---- vegetable purée, {Rx} 106 Press, wine illustration, p. 92 Processing, {Rx} 19-24 PRUNA, live, burning coal PRUNUM, plum; ---- DAMASCENUM, p. from Damascus, {Rx} 22; this variety came dried, resembling our large prunes. ---- SILVESTRIS, sloe berry, which by culture and pruning has become the ancestor of plums, etc. PTISANA, (better) TISANA, barley broth, rice broth, a gruel, {Rx} 173-3, 200-1; ---- TARICHA, {Rx} 173 Pudding, {Rx} 60 PULLUS, PULLULUS, young animal of any kind but principally a pullet, chicken, {Rx} 51, 2-7, 213, 235-6, seq.; ---- RAPTUS, note 1, {Rx} 140 PULLUM PARTHICUM, {Rx} 237; OXYZOMUM, {Rx} 238; ---- NUMIDICUM, {Rx} 239; ---- LASERATUM, {Rx} 240; ---- ELIXUM, {Rx} 242; ---- CUM CUCURBITIS, {Rx} 243; ---- CUM COLOCASIIS, {Rx} 244; ---- VARDANUM, {Rx} 245; ---- FRONTONIANUM, {Rx} 246; ---- TRACTOGALATUM, {Rx} 247; ---- FARSILIS, {Rx} 248; LEUCOZOMUM, {Rx} 250 PULMENTARIUM, any food eaten with vegetables, pulse or bread, or a dish composed of these ingredients, {Rx} 67-71 PULMO, lung, {Rx} 29 PULPA, --MENTUM, {Rx} 42, 134; also PULMENTUM PULS, --E, PULTICULUM, Books IV, V, a porridge, polenta, {Rx} 178, seq.; PULTES JULIANAE, {Rx} 178; ---- OENOCOCTI, {Rx} 179; ---- TRACTOGALATAE, {Rx} 181 PULTARIUS, a bowl, a "cereal" dish, {Rx} 104 Pumpkin, B. III, {Rx} 73-80; ---- pie, {Rx} 137; ---- fritters, {Rx} 176; ---- like dasheens, {Rx} 74; ---- Alexandrine Style, {Rx} 75; ---- boiled, {Rx} 76; ---- fried, {Rx} 77; ---- 78; ---- mashed, {Rx} 79; ---- and chicken, {Rx} 80 Purée of lettuce, {Rx} 130 PYRETHRUM, --ON, Spanish camomile, pellitory Q QUARTARIUS, a measure (which see), 1/4 pint Quenelles, {Rx} 131 Quinces, {Rx} 21, 162 R Rabbit, {Rx} 54 Radishes, {Rx} 102 Ragoût of brains and bacon, {Rx} 147; ---- financière, {Rx} 166 RAIA, the sea-fish ray, or skate; also whip-ray; p. 343, {Rx} 403-4; Raie au beurre noir, {Rx} 404 Raisins, {Rx} 30 RANAE, frogs, have been an article of diet for ages. Platina gives fine directions for their preparation. He recommends only frogs living in the water. RUBETAS ET SUB TERRA VIVENTES, UT NOXIAS REJICIO! AQUATILAS HAE SUNT DE QUIBUS LOQUOR Platina skins the frogs, turns them in flour and fries them in oil; he adds fennel flower garnish and SALSA VIRIDA (green sauce, our ravigote or remoulade) on the side. No modern chef could do different or improve upon it. The fennel blossom garnish is a startling stroke of genius Rankin, E. M., writer, see COQUUS RAPA, RAPUM, rape, turnip, navew, {Rx} 26, 100-1 RAPHANUS SATIVUS, Horseradish, {Rx} 102 Ray, fish, {Rx} 403-4 RECOQUO, RECOCTUM, re-heated, warmed-up Redsnapper, {Rx} 448 Réduction, {Rx} 145, 168 Reference to other parts of the book by Apicius, {Rx} 170, 166 Relishes, {Rx} 174-5 RENES, {Rx} 286 Reynière, Grimod de la ---- writer, p. 3, see MAPPA RHOMBUS, fish, turbot RHUS, a shrub called SUMACH, seed of which is used instead of salt RISUM, rice, also ORYZA. The word RISUM is used by Platina who says: "RISUM, QUOD EGO ANTIQUO VOCABULO ORIZAM APPELLATUM PUTO." This is one of the many philologically interesting instances found in Platina and Aegineta of the evolution of a term from the antique to the medieval Latin and finally emerging into modern Italian. What better proof, if necessary, could be desired than this etymology for the authenticity of the Apicius book? Its age could be proven by a philologist if no other proof were at hand Roasts, Roasting, p. 285, {Rx} 266-70 Roman Beauty Apple, {Rx} 136 ---- excesses, p. 15 Roman Cook Stove, illustration, p. 182 ---- economic conditions, p. 15 Roman Vermouth, {Rx} 3 ROSATUM, ROSATIUM, flavored with roses; ---- VINUM, rose wine, {Rx} 4-6; ---- without roses, {Rx} 6 Rose pie, see MALUM ROSEUM, also {Rx} 136, 171 ---- custard, {Rx} 136; ---- pudding, {Rx} 136; ---- apple, {Rx} 136 Rose wine, {Rx} 4-6 ROSMARINUS, rosemary Round sausage, {Rx} 65 Roux, {Rx} 172, see AMYLARE RUBELLIO, fish, {Rx} 447 RUBRA TESTA, red earthen pot RUMEX, sorrel, sour dock, monk's rhubarb, {Rx} 24 Rumohr, B., writer, pp. 3, 18 Rumpolt, Marx, cook, cf. Styrio RUTA, rue; ---- HORTENSIS, garden r.; ---- SYLVESTRIS, wild r.; ---- RUTATUS, prepared with r. Rue was very much esteemed because of its stimulating properties Rye, {Rx} 99 S SABUCO, see SAMBUCO SACCARUM, SACCHARUM, sugar; distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, coming from India, hence called "Indian Salt." It was very scarce in ancient cookery. Honey was generally used in place of sugar. Only occasionally a shipment of sugar would arrive in Rome from India, supposed to have been cane sugar; otherwise cane and beet sugar was unknown in ancient times. Any kind of sweets, therefore, was considered a luxury SAL, salt. Laxative salt, {Rx} 29; "For many ills," _ibid._ Sala, George Augustus, writer, p. 38 SALACACCABIA, SALACATTABIA, "salt" food boiled in the "caccabus," {Rx} 125-7, 468-70 Salad, {Rx} 109-11; ---- dressing, {Rx} 112-3; Italian ---- {Rx} 122 Salcisse, {Rx} 41 SALINUM, salt cellar Salmasius, Codex of ----, see Apiciana, III SALPA, a sea-fish like stock-fish SALSAMENTUM IN PORCELLO, {Rx} 381 Salsicium, {Rx} 41 SALSUM, pickled or salt meat, especially bacon; {Rx} 10, 41, 147, 149, 150, 428, seq.; ---- CRUDUM, {Rx} 151, cf. petits salés Salt, laxative, {Rx} 29; "for many ills," _ibid._; ---- meat, to make sweet, {Rx} 12; ---- fish, {Rx} 144, seq., 427, seq.; ---- balls, {Rx} 145 SALVIA, SALVUS, sage SAMBUCUS, elder-tree, or e.-berry; {Rx} 135 Sanitary measures, see MAPPA SAPA, new wine boiled down SAPOR, taste, savor, relish; ---- ROSELLINUS, rose extract, prepared rose flavor SARCOPTES, title of Book II SARDA, SARDELLA, small fish, sardine, anchovy, {Rx} 146, 419, 420, 480; ---- CONDITAE, {Rx} 480; SARDAM FARSILEM, {Rx} 419; ---- Sardine omelette, {Rx} 146 Sarinus, Pompeiian innkeeper, p. 7 SARTAGO, frying pan, flat and round or oblong, of bronze or of iron; some were equipped with hinged handles, to facilitate packing or storing away in small places, in soldiers' knapsack, or to save space in the pantry. This, as well as the extension handle of some ancient dippers are ingenious features of ancient kitchen utensils. See also FRICTORIUM, and the illustrations of pans, pp. 155, 159 SATUREIA, savory, satury Sauce pans, illustrations, pp. 155, 159, 73, 231 Sauces, ancient compared with modern, pp. 22, 24, 26, 27; ---- for roasts, {Rx} 267-70; ---- for partridge, {Rx} 499; ---- crane and duck, {Rx} 215; ---- for fowl, {Rx} 218-28 Sauces. Bread Sauce, {Rx} 274; Brine, {Rx} 284; ---- for broiled fish, Alexandrine style, {Rx} 437-39; ---- for boiled fish, {Rx} 433-6, 454; ---- for broiled mullet, {Rx} 442-3; ---- boiled meats, {Rx} 271-3; ---- for roasts, {Rx} 267, seq.; English ----, {Rx} 267; ---- for broiled murenas, {Rx} 448-51; Dill ----, {Rx} 283; Herb ---- for fried fish, {Rx} 432; ---- for Horned fish, {Rx} 441; ---- for lacertus, {Rx} 455-7; ---- perch, {Rx} 446; ---- redsnapper, {Rx} 447; ---- dory, {Rx} 461-2; ---- for suckling pig, {Rx} 379; ---- young tunny, {Rx} 444-5, 459; ---- for tooth-fish, {Rx} 460-1, 486; ---- shellfish, {Rx} 397; ---- for venison, {Rx} 339, 349; ---- for wild sheep or lamb, {Rx} 350; White ----, {Rx} 276, 277; Wine ---- for fish, {Rx} 464; Tasty ---- for conger, {Rx} 441; ---- for tidbits, {Rx} 276-82; ---- for sea-scorpion, {Rx} 463; ---- for eel, {Rx} 440, 466-7 Saucisse, {Rx} 41 Sauerbraten-Einlage, {Rx} 11 Sausage, p. 172, {Rx} 41, 45, 60-65, 139, 165 Savonarola, Michaele, p. 273 Scalding poultry, {Rx} 233 Scallops, {Rx} 46 SCANDIUS, chervil SCARUS, a certain sea-fish esteemed as a delicacy, a parrot-fish SCHOLA APITIANA, Apiciana, Nos. 21, 22, 23, facsimile, p. 206 Schuch, C. Th. editor, Apiciana, Nos. 16-17, p. 34, 25, 270 seq. Science confirming ancient methods, p. 32 SCILLA, SCYLLA, SQUILLA, a shell-fish, a sea-onion, {Rx} 43, 485 SCORPIO, a sea-scorpion, {Rx} 463, 475 SCRIBLITA, SCRIBILITA, pastry, some kind of pancake, extra hot. Plautus and Martial, hence Scriblitarius, cake baker, cf. Coquus SCRUPULUM, SCRI--, a weight, which see Sealing vessels to prevent air from entering, {Rx} 23, 25 Sea Barb, {Rx} 482-3; ---- Bass, {Rx} 158, 447; ---- Eel, {Rx} 484; ---- food, p. 343; ---- stew, Baian style, {Rx} 432; ---- mullet, {Rx} 157; ---- nettles, {Rx} 162; ---- perch, {Rx} 447; ---- pike, {Rx} 158; ---- urchin, {Rx} 413-4; ---- scorpion, {Rx} 475 Sea-scorpion with turnips, {Rx} 475 Sea water, {Rx} 8 Seasoning, see flavoring Secrecy in recipes, pp. 29, 30 Seeds, Summary of, p. 236 SEL, see SIL SEMINIBUS, DE, p. 236 Seneca, Roman philosopher, pp. 3, 11, 15 SEPIA, cuttle-fish, {Rx} 406-9 SERPYLLUM, wild thyme Service berry, {Rx} 159 ---- pan with decorated handle, illustration, p. 73 ---- dish for eggs, p. 93 SESAMUM, sesame herb or corn SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin SETANIA, a kind of medlar, also a certain onion or bulb SEXTARIUS, a measure, which see, {Rx} 1 Sforza Ms. Apiciana XIII Shellfish, {Rx} 397, 412 Shell-shaped Dessert Dish, p. 125 Shircliffe, Arnold, Dedication, p. 273 Shore Dinner, {Rx} 46 Sicardus Ms. Apiciana XIV Signerre Rothomag., editor, pp. 258, seq., also see Tacuinus Signerre, Colophon, p. 260 SIL, see SESELIS SILIGO, winter wheat, very hard wheat SILIQUA, shell, pod, husk SILPHIUM, SYLPHIUM, same as LASERPITIUM, which see, {Rx} 32 SILURUS, supposed to be the river fish sly silurus, or sheat-fish, also called the horn-pout, or catfish, {Rx} 426 SIMILA, --AGO, fine wheat flour SINAPIS, mustard "_Singe_," {Rx} 55 SION, --UM, plant growing in the marshes or on meadows, water-parsnip SISYMBRIUM, water cress SITULA, hot water kettle Skate, {Rx} 403-4 Slang in ancient text, p. 19 Slaughter, cruel methods of, {Rx} 259, 260 Slaves grinding flour, illustration, p. 60 Sloe, see PRUNUM Smelts, {Rx} 138-39 SMYRNION, --UM, a kind of herb, common Alexander Snails, {Rx} 323-5 Soda, use of ---- to keep vegetables green, {Rx} 66 Soft cabbage, {Rx} 103-6 SOLEA, flat fish, the sole, {Rx} 154, 487; SOLEARUM PATINA, _ibid._ SORBITIO, from SORBEO, supping up, sipping, drinking, drought; any liquid food that may be sipped, a drink, a potion, a broth, a sherbet, Fr. SORBET Sorrel, {Rx} 26 Sour Dock, {Rx} 26 Soups, {Rx} 178, seq. Sow's womb, matrix, udder, belly, {Rx} 59, 172, 251-8 Soyer, Alexis, chef, 35 Sparrow, see PASSER Spätzli, {Rx} 247 Spelt, {Rx} 58-9 Spengler, O., writer, p. 17 SPICA, a "spike," ear of corn, top of plants, the plant spikenard, SPICA NARDI Spiced Fruit, {Rx} 177 Spices, Summary of, pp. 234-5; spicing, ancient and modern, {Rx} 15, 276-77, 385, seq. Spiny lobster, {Rx} 54, 485 Spoiling, to prevent food from--see Book I, and Preserving, to prevent birds from spoiling, {Rx} 229-30, 233 SPONDYLIUM, --ION, a kind of plant, cow-parsnip, or all-heal. Also called SPHONDYLIUM and FONDULUM. It is quite evident that this term is very easily confused with the foregoing, a mistake, which was made by Humelbergius and upheld by Lister and others. For comparison see {Rx} 46, 115-21, 183, 309, 431 SPONDYLUS, the muscular part of an oyster or other shellfish, scallop, for instance; also a species of bivalves, perhaps the scallop, {Rx} 46 SPONGIOLA, rose gall, also the roots of asparagus, clottered and grown close together SPONGIOLUS, fungus growing in the meadows, a mushroom, cf. SPONDYLIUM and notes pertaining thereto Sprats, {Rx} 138-9 Sprouts, cabbage ----, {Rx} 89-92 Squab, {Rx} 218-27, cf. Pipio Squash, {Rx} 73-80 Squill, {Rx} 485 Squirrel, {Rx} 396 Stag, {Rx} 339-45 Starch, in forcemeats, sausage, etc., {Rx} 50 Starr, Frederick, see introduction STATERAE, steelyards for measuring Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273 Stewed Lacertus, {Rx} 152; ---- meats, p. 285, {Rx} 356, seq. Stewpots, illustrated, pp. 183, 209, 223, 235 String beans and chick-peas, {Rx} 209 STRUTHIO, ostrich, {Rx} 210-11 Studemund, W., writer, p. 19 Stuffed pumpkin fritters, {Rx} 176; ---- chicken or pig, {Rx} 199; ---- boned kid or lamb, {Rx} 360 STURNUS, a starling, stare; Platina condemns its meat as unfit, likewise that of the blackbird (cf. MERULA); he pronounces their flesh to be "devilish." "STURNI, QUOS VULGO DIABOLICAM CARNEM HABERE DICIMUS." Yet three-hundred years later, French authorities recommend this sort of food. Viger, La Nouvelle Maison Rustique, Paris, 1798, Vol. iii, p. 613, tells how to catch and fatten STURNI. "After a month [of forced feeding] they will be nice and fat and good to eat and to sell; there are persons who live of this trade." He praises the crow similarly These instances are cited not only as a commentary upon the taste of the Southern people and their habits which have endured to this day but also to illustrate the singular genius of Platina. Also the following notes to STYRIO tend to show how far advanced was Platina in the matter of food as compared with the masters of the 18th century in France STYRIO, STIRIO, STURIO, {Rx} 145, sturgeon; probably the same fish as known to the ancients as ACIPENSER or STURIO. (A. SIVE S. OBLONGO TEREDEQUE--Stephanus à Schonevelde, in Ichthyologia, Hamburg, 1624). There can be no doubt that the sturgeon or sterlet is meant by this term, for Platina calls the eggs of the fish "caviare." "OVA STIRIONIS CONDITUM QUOD CAUARE UOCANT." Eloquently he describes his struggle with the changing language. The efforts of this conscientious man, Platina, to get at the bottom of things no matter how trivial they may appear, are highly praiseworthy He writes "DE STIRIONE. TRAHI PER TENEBRAS N{=U}C MIHI VIDEOR, QUANDO HOR{=U}, DE QUIBUS, DEINCEPS DICTURUS SUM, PISCI{=U}, NULLUS CERTUS UEL NOMINIS, UEL NATURAE EXISTAT AUTOR. NEGLIGENTIAE MAIORUM & INSCITIAE ID MAGIS, QUÀM MIHI ASCRIBENDUM EST. VTAR EGO NOUIS NOMINIBUS NE DELICATORUM GULAE PER ME DICANT STETISSE, QUO MINUS INTEGRA UTERENTUR UOLUPTATE." As for the rest, Platina cooks the sturgeon precisely in our own modern way: namely in water, white wine and vinegar. And: "SALEM INDERE MEMENTO!--don't forget the salt!" Compare him with France 350 years later. As for caviare, A. Beauvilliers, in his L'Art du cuisinier, Paris, 1814, treats this "ragoût" as something entirely new; yet Beauvilliers was the leading restaurateur of his time and a very capable cook, save Carême, the best. Beauvilliers has no use for caviare which he calls "Kavia." Says he: "LES RUSSES EN FONT UN GRAND CAS ET L'ACHETENT FORT CHER [The Russians make a big thing of this and buy it very dearly] CE RAGOUT, SELON MOI, NE CONVIENT QU' AUX RUSSES--this stew, according to my notion, suits only the Russians or those who have traveled thereabouts." Shakespeare, in speaking about "Caviare to the General" apparently was more up-to-date in culinary matters than this Parisian authority. A search of the eight volumes (Vol. I, 1803) of the famous Almanach des Gourmands by Grimod de la Reynière, Paris, 1803, seq., fails to reveal a trace of caviare A German cook, a hundred years after Platina, Marx Rumpolt in "Ein new Kochbuch, Franckfort am Mayn, bey Johan Feyrabendt, 1587" on verso of folio XCVII, No. 9, gives an exact description of caviare and its mode of preparation. He calls it ROGEN VOM HAUSEN. The HAUSEN is the real large sturgeon, the Russian Beluga from which the best caviare is obtained. Rumpolt, whose book is the finest and most thorough of its kind in the middle ages, and a great work in every respect, remarks that caviare is good eating, especially for Hungarian gentlemen "... SO ISSET MAN JN ROH / IST EIN GUT ESSEN / SONDERLICH FÜR EINEN VNGERISCHEN HERRN." SUCCIDIA a side of bacon or salt pork SUCCUM, SUCUM, {Rx} 172, 200 Suckling Pig, see PORCELLUS Sugar and pork, {Rx} 151; use of ---- in ancient Rome, see SACCARUM Suidas, writer, p. 11 SUMEN, {Rx} 257; ---- PLENUM, {Rx} 258 Sumptuary laws, p. 25, {Rx} 166 Sumptuous dishes, {Rx} 285 Sweet dishes, home-made, {Rx} 294-6 Sweet MINUTAL, {Rx} 168 SYRINGIATUS, {Rx} 360 T TABLE, adjustable, illustration, p. 138; ---- round, _id._, p. 122 Tacuinus, editor-printer, p. 258; quoted in recipes 8 seq.; Facs. of Title Page, 1503, p. 262; Facs. of opening chapter, p. 232 TAMNIS, --US, TAMINIUS, wild grape TANACETUM, tansy Taranto, Tarentum, city, {Rx} 165; --ian sausage, {Rx} 140; ---- Minutal, {Rx} 165; see also LONGANO Taricho, Tarichea, town, {Rx} 427, seq. Taro, dasheen, {Rx} 74, 154, 172, 200, 244, 322; see COLOCASIA Tarpeius, a Roman, {Rx} 363 TEGULA, tile for a roof, also a pan, a plate of marble or of copper; Ger. TIEGEL Tempting Dish of Peas, A ----, {Rx} 192 TERENTINA, {Rx} 338 Tertullian, writer, p. 3 TESTA, --U, --UM, an earthen pot with a lid, a casserole TESTICULA CAPONUM, {Rx} 166 TESTUDO, TESTA, turtle, tortoise. Platina praises the sea-turtle as good eating TETRAPES, --US, four-footed animals; title of Book VIII TETRAPHARMACUM, a course of four dishes, or a dish consisting of four meats. In modern language, a "Mixed Grill," a "Fritto Misto," a "Shore-Dinner" THALASSA, the sea; title of Book IX, treating of fish Theban ounce, {Rx} 3 THERMOPOLIUM, a tavern, specializing in hot drinks THERMOSPODIUM, a hot-plate, a hot dish carrier, a BAIN-MARIS, illustrations, pp. 72, 90 THINCA, a fish, moonfish (?) "OLIM MENAM APPELLATAM CREDIDERIM"--Platina Thudichum, Dr., writer, p. 18 THUS, TUS, frankincense, or the juice producing incense, Rosemary (?); also the herb ground-pine, CHAMAEPITYS, {Rx} 60 Thrush, p. 265, {Rx} 497 THYMBRIA, savory; see SISYMBRIUM, SATUREIA and CUNILA; also see THYMUS THYMUS, thyme. Platina describes THYMUS and THYMBRIA with such a love and beauty that we cannot help but bestow upon him the laurels worn by the more well-known poets who became justly famous for extolling the fragrance of less useful plants such as roses and violets THYNNUS, tunny-fish, {Rx} 426, 457-8 Tidbits, p. 285, {Rx} 261, seq.; ---- of lamb or kid, {Rx} 355 TISANA, see PTISANA, {Rx} 172-3, 200-1 Title pages, Venice, 1503, 262; Lyons, p. 263; Zürich, p. 265; London, p. 267 Toasting, {Rx} 129 Tooth-fish, {Rx} 157 Torinus, Albanus, editor of the Apicius and Platina editions of 1541, text, p. 14 ---- quoted, {Rx} 1, 2, 8, seq., assailed by Lister, see L. ---- facsimile of Title page 1541, p. 220 TORPEDO, --IN, --INE, {Rx} 403-4 TORTA, cake, tart; ---- ALBA, cheese cake Toulouse garnish, compared, {Rx} 378 TRACTOGALATUS, a dish prepared with milk and paste (noodles, spätzli, etc.); ---- PULLUS, a young chicken pie TRACTOMELITUS, a dish prepared with honey paste; a gingerbread or honeybread composition TRACTUM, {Rx} 181 Traianus, a Roman, {Rx} 380; also Traganus, Trajanus Traube, writer, p. 19 Trimalchio, fictitious character by Petronius, whose "Banquet" is the only surviving description of a Roman dinner, unfortunately exaggerated because it was a satire on Nero, pp. 8, 11 Tripod, illustration, p. 40 TRITICUM, --EUS, --INUS, wheat, of wheat TROPHETES, erroneously for AËROPTES, Gr. for fowl, title of Book VI Truffles, {Rx} 27, 33, 315-321, 333; cf. TUBERA TRULLA, any small deep vessel, also a dipper, ladle TUBERA, "tubers"; TUBER CIBARIUM, ---- TERRAE, truffle, a fungus, mushroom growing underground, {Rx} 27, 35, 315, seq., 321; T. CYCLAMINOS, "sow-bread," because swine, being very fond of T. dig them up. The truffle defies cultivation, grows wild and today is still being "hunted" by the aid of swine and dogs that are guided by its matchless aroma TUCETUM, a delicate dish; particularly a dessert made of prunes Tunny, fish, {Rx} 427, 458, 459; Baby, {Rx} 420, 424, 425, 426; Salt, {Rx} 427 TURDUS, thrush, {Rx} 497 Turkey, probably known to the ancients. See Guinea Hen and Meleagris Turnips, {Rx} 100, 101 Turnover dish, {Rx} 129 TURTUR, "turtle" dove, {Rx} 218, seq., 498; ---- ILLA, young t., an endearing term TURSIO, TH--, {Rx} 145 TYROPATINA, {Rx} 301 TYROTARICUS, a dish made of cheese, salt fish, eggs, spices--ingredients resembling our "Long Island Rabbit," {Rx} 137, 143, 180, 439; see TARICA, {Rx} 144, 428 U UDDER, {Rx} 251 UNCIA, ounce, equals 1/12 lb.; also inch, -/12 UNGELLAE, {Rx} 251-5 foot Urbino, Duke of, p. 269 URNA, urn, pitcher, water bucket; --ULA, small vessel; also a liquid measure, containing half of an AMPHORA, of four CONGII, or twelve SEXTARII; see measures URTICA, nettle; also sea-nettle, {Rx} 108, 162 U. S. Dept. of Agr. on Dasheens, {Rx} 322 UVA, grape, {Rx} 19; Uvam passam Phariam, {Rx} 97 V Vaerst, Baron von, a writer, pp. 3, 8 Vanilla, {Rx} 15 VARIANTES LECTIONES, Apiciana No. 12 Varianus, Varius, Varus, Vardanus, Roman family name, {Rx} 245 Varro, a writer, {Rx} 70, 307, 396, p. 21 VAS, a vase, vat, vessel, dish, plate; --CULUM, a small v.; ---- VITREUM, glass v., {Rx} 23 Vasavarayeyam, ancient Sanscrit book, p. 13 Vatican Mss. Apiciana, p. 254, seq., Incipit facsimile, p. 253 Veal Steak, p. 314, {Rx} 351, 2; ---- Fricassée, {Rx} 353, 4 Vegetable Dinner, {Rx} 67-9, 71, 145, 188; ---- purée, {Rx} 103-6; ---- peeling of young v., {Rx} 66; to keep v. green, {Rx} 67, 188; ---- and brain pudding, {Rx} 131 Vehling, J. D., see Introduction; V. collection, p. 257 VENERIS OSTIUM, {Rx} 307 Venison, {Rx} 339-45 VENTREM, AD ----, {Rx} 68, 69, 70, 71; --ICULUM, {Rx} 285 VERMICULI, "little worms," noodles, vermicelli Vermouth, Roman, French, and Black Sea, different kinds of, {Rx} 3, seq. VERVEX, a wether-sheep, mutton VESTINUS, see Caseus, {Rx} 126 Vicaire, Georges, bibliographer, p. 18 VICIA, a kind of pulse, vetch VICTUS, way of life, diet; ---- TENUIS, reduced diet Vinaigrette, {Rx} 113, 336, 341 Vinidarius, Excerpts of, pp. 12, 21, 234 VINUM, wine; ---- CANDIDUM FACIES, {Rx} 8; many technical terms are given to wines, according to their qualities, such as ALBUM, CONDITUM, FUSCUM, NIGRUM, LIMPIDUM, ATRUM, DURUM, FULVUM, SANGUINEM, RUBENS, FIERI, BONUM, DULCE SUAVUM, FIRMUM, SALUBRE, DILUTUM, VAPIDUM, etc. These, as our modern terms, are employed to designate the "bouquet," color and other characteristics of wine. Then there are the names of the different brands coming from different parts, too numerous to mention. Furthermore there are wines of grapes, old and new, plain or distilled, raw or cooked, pure and diluted, natural or flavored, and the many different drinks made of grape wine with herbs and spices V. NIGRUM, "black wine," may be muddy wine in need of clarification; there is some slight doubt about this point. It appears that the vintner of old was much more tempted to foist unworthy stuff upon his customers than his colleague of today who is very much restricted by law and guided by his reputation VINUM also is any drink or liquor resembling grape wine, any home-made wine fermented or fresh. There is a V. EX NAPIS, ---- PALMEUM, ---- EX CAROTIS, ---- EX MILII SEMINE, ---- EX LOTO, ---- EX FICO, ---- EX PUNCICIS, ---- EX CORNIS, ---- EX MESPILIS, ---- EX SORBIS, ---- EX MORIS, ---- EX NUCLEIS PINEIS, ---- EX PIRIS, ---- EX MALIS, (cf. Pliny), resembling our cider, perry, berry wines and other drink or liquor made of fruit, berries, vegetables or seeds VIOLATIUM and ROSATIUM, {Rx} 5, are laxatives; ---- ORIGANUM is wine flavored with origany; etc., etc. It is doubtful, however, that the Romans knew the art of distillation to the extent as perfected by the Arabs centuries later and brought to higher perfection by the medical men and alchymists of the middle ages Violet Wine, {Rx} 5 Virility, supposed stimulants for, {Rx} 307, 410 VITELLINA, VITULINA, calf, veal, {Rx} 351-4 Vitellius, emperor, p. 11, {Rx} 189, 193, 317 VITELLUS OVI, yolk of egg; also very young calf. "Calf's sweetbreads"--Danneil Vollmer, F., editor, commentator, Apiciana No. 21, 23, 27, pp. 13, 18, 19, 273 Vossius, G. J., philologist, on Coelius, p. 266 VULVA, sow's matrix, womb; --ULA, small v., {Rx} 59, 251-54, 256. Was considered a delicacy. Pliny, Martial and Plutarch wrote at length on the subject. The humane Plutarch tells of revolting detail in connection with the slaughter of swine in order to obtain just the kind of V. that was considered the best Cf. Pliny, Hist. Nat., VIII, 51; XI, 37, 84, 54; Plutarch's essay on flesh eating, Martial, Ep. XII, 56 and VII, 19 W WEIGHTS. LIBRAE, scale, balance. LIBRA--pound--lb--12 ounces, equivalent to one AS UNCIA, an ounce, properly the twelfth part of any unit, also any small bit SCRIPULUM, or SCRU--, 1 scruple, 288 to 1 lb. SELIBRA for SEMILIBRA, half a pound Theban ounce, cf. {Rx} 3 Weighing fluids, {Rx} 471 Welsh rabbit, see ZANZERELLA Whiting, {Rx} 419 Wild Boar, {Rx} 329, seq., 338; ---- sheep, {Rx} 348; ---- goat, {Rx} 346, seq. Wilson, Dr. Margaret B., collector, cf. Preface, p. 37; cf. Apiciana I, pp. 254, 257; cf. Garum Wine, fine spiced, {Rx} 1; Rose, {Rx} 4; ---- without roses, {Rx} 6; ---- Violet, {Rx} 5; ---- To clarify muddy, {Rx} 8; ---- New--boiled down, DEFRITUM, {Rx} 21; ---- sauce for truffles, {Rx} 33; ---- Palm, {Rx} 35; ---- of Carica figs, {Rx} 55; ---- sauce for fig-fed pork, {Rx} 259, 260; ---- fish, {Rx} 479; cf. VINUM Wine pitcher, illustration, p. 208; ---- press, illustration, p. 92; ---- storage room in Pompeii, illustration, p. 124; ---- Dipper, p. 3; ---- Crater, p. 140 Wolf, Rebekka, writer, {Rx} 205, seq. Woodcock, {Rx} 218, seq. Wood-pigeon, {Rx} 218, seq. Wooley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 52 Writers, ancient, on food, pp. 3, 4 Y YEAST, {Rx} 16 Young cabbage, p. 188, {Rx} 87 Z ZAMPINO, {Rx} 338 ZANZERELLA, a "Welsh rabbit." "CIBARIUM QUOD VULGO ZANZERELLAS UOCANT"--Platina ZEMA, ZU--, ZY--, a cook pot for general use ZINZIGER, GINGIBER, ginger; the latter is the better spelling ZOMORE, ZOMOTEGANON, ZOMORE GANONA, ZOMOTEGANITE--a dish of fish boiled in their own liquor, resembling the modern bouillabaisse, {Rx} 153. The GANON, --A, --ITE, is the name of an unidentified fish, the supposed principal ingredient of this fish stew. Cf. Oenoteganon [End of Index and Vocabulary] [_INDICIS FINIS_] ADDENDA Description of Commentaries APICIANA NOS. 30-31, A.D., 1935-36 J. SVENNUNG: UNTERSUCHUNGEN ZU PALLADIUS UND ZUR LATEINISCHEN FACH- UND VOLKSSPRACHE. "Skrifter utgivna med understöd av Vilhelm Ekmans universitets-fond, Uppsala," tom. 44, (Uppsala, 1935) and DE LOCIS NON NULLIS APICIANIS SCRIPSIT J. SVENNUNG. (Särtryck ur Eranos vol. XXXIV) Gotoburgi 1936. Typis descr. Elanders Boktr. A.-B. [Through the good offices of Dr. Edwardt Brandt, of Munich, the above two commentaries on Apicius were received in the last moment, thanks to the courtesy of the author, Lekto J. Svennung, of Uppsala, Sweden. The first study is a critique of technical terms and colloquialisms as found in Palladius, touching frequently upon Apicius, published in 1935 at Uppsala by the Vilhelm Ekman University Foundation and the other is a reprint of an article on a number of Apician formulae from Eranos, Vol. XXXIV, published at Gothenburg, 1936, by Elander, Ltd. J. D. V., Chicago, November 30th, 1936.] {Illustration: (Squib on the margin of an ancient manuscript in the Monastery of St. Gallen, Switzerland)} {Transcription: LIBRO COMPLETO··· SALTAT SCRIPTOR PEDE LAETO······} Transcriber's Note Minor punctuation errors have been repaired. Amendments have been made only where there was a clear error, where there was a definite inconsistency within the text, or where it was impossible to find a reliable source of the original spelling, as follows: Page vii--FRONTISPIECE amended to FRONTISPICE--"13 FRONTISPICE, Lister Edition ..." Page 5--predeliction amended to predilection--"... nor did he indulge in that predilection for ugly detail ..." Page 9--Minturæ amended to Minturnæ--"... living chiefly at Minturnæ, a city of Campania, ..." Page 11--departmentized amended to departmentalized--"... were departmentalized to an astonishing degree ..." Page 11--indispensible amended to indispensable--"These indispensable books are simply wanting in our book ..." Page 15--Pommerania amended to Pomerania--"... Sweden, Holstein, Denmark, Friesland, Pomerania still observes Apicius rules ..." Page 20--fallability amended to fallibility--"... how each new copy by virtue of human fallibility or self-sufficiency ..." Page 22--salt amended to salted--"The fish, intestines and all, was spiced, pounded, fermented, salted, strained and bottled ..." Page 23--an amended to a--"May it be a sturdy one, and let its owner beware." Page 24--prodiguous amended to prodigious--"His culinary procedures required a prodigious amount of labor ..." Page 26--insiduousness amended to insidiousness--"Even the most ascetic of men cannot resist the insidiousness of spicy delights ..." Page 27--appeite amended to appetite--"... having our appetite aroused at the very perusal ..." Page 28--devine amended to divine--"... the experienced practitioner will be able to divine correct proportions, ..." Page 32--compote amended to compôte--"... oyster cocktail, poultry and compôte, goose with apple ..." Page 36--mummyfied amended to mummified--"... that Apicius is not a mummified, bone-dry classic ..." Page 58--EPIMLES amended to EPIMELES--"_EXPLICIT APICII EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS_" Page 64--feasable amended to feasible--"... such as we here suggest would be entirely feasible ..." Page 70--CIRELLOS amended to CIRCELLOS--"[65] ROUND SAUSAGE _CIRCELLOS ISICIATOS_" Page 77--popularily amended to popularly--"... chestnuts and potatoes, popularly known as "Chinese potatoes" ..." Page 89--acccordance amended to accordance--"... Procedure quite in accordance with modern practice." Page 89--omitted [1] added to beginning of note in recipe 121. Page 89--114 amended to 115 (twice)--"... (Cf. {Rx} No. 115) ..." and "... _Spondyli uel fonduli_ ({Rx} Nos. 115-121) does belong to Book II ..." Page 96--Carthusians amended to Carthusian--"... those delightful creations by the Carthusian monks ..." Page 102--act amended to fact--"... a fashion which, as a matter of fact still survives in the Orient, ..." Page 110--glace amended to glacé--"... the _{oe}nogarum_ taking the place of our meat glacé." Page 110--vexacious amended to vexatious--"Another interpretation of this vexatious formula ..." Page 116--indispensible amended to indispensable--"... both of which are indispensable to modern cookery." Page 117--166 amended to 165--"* Cf. {Rx} No. 165." Page 122--illustrations amended to illustration--"This is a good illustration of and speaks well for ..." Page 129--forcements amended to forcemeats--"... any fine forcemeats, cut into or cooked in tiny dumplings." Page 150--Dan. amended to Dann.--"Dann. takes this literally, but _navo_ (_navus_) here ..." Page 151--omitted [1] added to beginning of note in recipe 243. Page 154--APERATURE amended to APERTURE--"... EMPTY IT THROUGH THE APERTURE OF THE NECK ..." Page 162--TID BITS amended to TID-BITS--"TID-BITS, CHOPS, CUTLETS" Page 164--Worchestershire amended to Worcestershire--"... some of the commercial sauces made principally in England (Worcestershire, etc.), ..." Page 166--Gell. amended to Goll.--"... _Cupedia_ (Plaut. and Goll.), nice dainty dishes, ..." Page 172--cates amended to cakes--"_Dulcia_, sweetmeats, cakes; ..." Page 173--128 amended to 129 and 142 amended to 143--"... or else it is a nut custard, practically a repetition of {Rx} Nos. 129 and 143." Page 180--SNAIL amended to SNAILS--"THE SNAILS ARE FRIED WITH PURE SALT AND OIL ..." Page 191--galatine amended to galantine--"We would call this a galantine of lamb if such a dish ..." Page 193--Dan. amended to Dann.--"Dann. thinks _laureatus_ stands for the best, ..." Page 193--it's amended to its--"... it is possible that the kid was cooked with its mother's own milk." Page 198--councellor amended to counsellor--"Celsinus was counsellor for Aurelianus, the emperor." Page 204--EXLIXUM amended to ELIXUM--"ALITER LEPOREM ELIXUM" Page 213--15 amended to 14--"[3] Cf. No. 14 for the keeping of oysters." Page 228--2 amended to 3--"[2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448." Page 228--preceeds amended to precedes--"... this formula precedes the above." Page 231--act amended to fact--"... as a matter of fact, stands for pepper, ..." Page 236--CARDAMON amended to CARDAMOM--"... INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD." Page 236--FENNELL amended to FENNEL--"... CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ..." Page 253--XVII amended to XVIII--"Munich, XVIII" Page 255--Cesna amended to Cesena--"Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century." Page 255--phases amended to phrases--"... and failed to understand some phrases of it." Page 258--Pennel amended to Pennell--"The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London ..." Page 258--Epimelels amended to Epimeles--"... GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT || EPIMELES, ..." Page 277--Southerwood amended to Southernwood--"ABROTANUM, ... or, according to most Southernwood." Page 277--Attich amended to Attic--"... a small measure, equivalent to 15 Attic drachms" Page 278--fewerfew amended to feverfew--"AMACARUS, sweet-marjoram, feverfew" Page 279--Baracuda amended to Barracuda--"Barracuda, a fish, {Rx} 158" Page 279--COLOSASIUM amended to COLOCASIUM--"Beans ... ---- "Egyptian," see COLOCASIUM" Page 279--orrage amended to orage--"... the arrack or orage, also spinach, according to ..." Page 279--omitted {Rx} added--"BUBULA, Beef, flesh of oxen, p. 30, {Rx} 351, 352" Page 280--forno amended to Forno--"... with our illustrations of the Casa di Forno of Pompeii ..." Page 280--Caviar amended to Caviare--"Caviare, see STYRIO" Page 282--mussle amended to mussel--"... any hollow vessel resembling a mussel shell ..." Page 283--maitre amended to maître--"... to the PRINCEPS COQUORUM, the "maître d'hôtel" of the establishment ..." Page 284--tumeric amended to turmeric--"CURCUMA ZEODARIA, turmeric" Page 284--Destillation amended to Distillation and entry moved to proper place in the Index--"Distillation, see Vinum" Page 286--illustratios amended to illustrations--"... on which the CRATICULA stood. Cf. illustrations, p. 182" Page 287--Passianus amended to Passenianus--"Hare, ... ---- smoked Passenianus, {Rx} 389 ..." Page 289--destillate amended to distillate--"... the juice or distillate of the herb by that name, ..." Page 289--LIQORIBUS amended to LIQUORIBUS--"LIQUORIBUS, DE, p. 370" Page 290--indispensible amended to indispensable--"... grown in Italy at his time, that are so indispensable ..." Page 290--dog-brier amended to dog-briar--"... namely the hip, dog-briar, or eglantine is made into dainty confections ..." Page 292--omitted page number added to entry for oval pan--"Oval pan, illustration, p. 159" Page 294--forcement amended to forcemeat--"Pork ... ---- forcemeat, {Rx} 366" Page 296--destillate amended to distillate--"... distillate from the joints of the bamboo or sugar cane, ..." Page 297--SESESIL amended to SESELIS--"SESELIS, SEL, SIL, hartwort, kind of cumin" Page 297--SISYMBRUM amended to SISYMBRIUM--"SISYMBRIUM, water cress"--and entry moved from following entry for SITULA to preceding it. Page 297--Sternajola amended to Sternajolo--"Sternajolo, writer, Apiciana, No. 28, p. 273" Page 299--omitted p. added--"Title pages, Venice, 1503, p. 262; ..." Page 300--Rebecca amended to Rebekka--"Wolf, Rebekka, writer, {Rx} 205, seq." Page 300--Wooley amended to Wolley, and entry moved to correct place in index--"Wolley, Mrs. Hannah, writer, {Rx} 52" The following have also been noted: The author has consistently used minuscle rather than minuscule when referring to manuscript. Since it appears deliberate, it has been preserved as printed. Page 9 has a word obscured--"one of three known famous ---- bearing that name". Another source of the text has the word as 'eaters', so the same has been used here. Page 23 has a reference to a "modern" sauce, A I. There were no obvious references to be found for a sauce of that name, so it may be a typo for A1 sauce, which was available at the time of writing. As there is no way to be certain, however, it has been preserved as printed. Page 49--note to recipe 13 reads, "Exactly as we today with fried herring and river lamprey". It is possible that it should read "as we do today", but has been left as printed. Page 151--recipe 241 has a note 1, but no marker in the text. Page 166--recipe 275 has a marker for note 1, but no note with that number. Page 172--Note 1 to recipe 294 reads "making it convenient and unprofitable for the domestic cook"--this should probably be read as "inconvenient and unprofitable", but it has been left as printed. Page 175--recipe 305 has a marker for note 2, but no note with that number. Page 189--recipe 351 has a marker for note 2, but no note with that number. Page 211--recipe 405a has a marker for note 2, but no note with that number. Page 226--there is no title for recipe 445. Page 230--there is no Latin translation provided for the heading "EEL". Page 243--recipe 481 is titled "FISH STEWED IN WINE", but does not mention wine anywhere in the recipe itself. Page 284--contained incorrectly placed index entries for CLIBANUS, CNICOS and CNISSA (following COXA). These have been moved to the correct place. Page 291--the index entry for Morsels also seems to have had the recipe references (309, seq.) for Morels included; this has been preserved as printed. Page 291--contained incorrectly placed index entry for Mullet (following MUSTUM). This has been moved to the correct place. Page 292--in the subentry for OLUS (OLUS AND CAULUS), there is an {Rx} but no number. End of Project Gutenberg's Cooking and Dining in Imperial Rome, by Apicius *** END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK COOKERY AND DINING IN IMPERIAL ROME *** Updated editions will replace the previous one—the old editions will be renamed. Creating the works from print editions not protected by U.S. copyright law means that no one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation (and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to copying and distributing Project Gutenberg™ electronic works to protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG™ concept and trademark. 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