BOOK I. THE CAREFUL EXPERIENCED COOK

_Lib. I. Epimeles_ CHAP. I. FINE SPICED WINE. HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS. CHAP. II. ROMAN VERMOUTH. CHAP. III. ROSE WINE. VIOLET WINE. ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES. CHAP. IV. LIBURNIAN OIL. CHAP. V. TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE. CHAP. VI. TO IMPROVE A BROTH WITH A BAD ODOR. CHAP. VII. TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT. TO KEEP COOKED SIDES OF PORK. CHAP. VIII. TO MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET. CHAP. IX. TO KEEP FRIED FISH. TO KEEP OYSTERS. CHAP. X. TO MAKE LASER GO A LONG WAY. CHAP. XI. TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST. TO MAKE SPOILED HONEY GOOD. TO TEST SPOILED HONEY. CHAP. XII. TO KEEP GRAPES. TO KEEP POMEGRANATES. TO KEEP QUINCES. TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS. TO KEEP CITRON. TO KEEP MULBERRIES. TO KEEP POT HERBS. TO PRESERVE SORREL. TO KEEP TRUFFLES. TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES. CHAP. XIII. SPICED SALTS FOR MANY ILLS. CHAP. XIV. TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES. CHAP. XV. CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH. ANOTHER. CHAP. XVI. LASER FLAVOR. ANOTHER. CHAP. XVII. WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES. ANOTHER. CHAP. XVIII. OXYPORUM. CHAP. XIX. HYPOTRIMA. CHAP. XX. OXYGARUM, DIGESTIVE. ANOTHER. CHAP. XXI. MORTARIA. I [1] FINE SPICED WINE _CONDITUM PARADOXUM_ THE COMPOSITION OF [this] EXCELLENT SPICED WINE [is as follows]. INTO A COPPER BOWL PUT 6 SEXTARII [1] OF HONEY AND 2 SEXTARII OF WINE; HEAT ON A SLOW FIRE, CONSTANTLY STIRRING THE MIXTURE WITH A WHIP. AT THE BOILING POINT ADD A DASH OF COLD WINE, RETIRE FROM STOVE AND SKIM. REPEAT THIS TWICE OR THREE TIMES, LET IT REST TILL THE NEXT DAY, AND SKIM AGAIN. THEN ADD 4 OZS. OF CRUSHED PEPPER [2], 3 SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, A DRACHM EACH OF [nard or laurel] LEAVES AND SAFFRON, 5 DRACHMS OF ROASTED DATE STONES CRUSHED AND PREVIOUSLY SOAKED IN WINE TO SOFTEN THEM. WHEN THIS IS PROPERLY DONE ADD 18 SEXTARII OF LIGHT WINE. TO CLARIFY IT PERFECTLY, ADD [crushed] CHARCOAL [3] TWICE OR AS OFTEN AS NECESSARY WHICH WILL DRAW [the residue] TOGETHER [and carefully strain or filter through the charcoal]. [1] _Sextarii._ Tor. _partes XV_; G.-V. _pondo XV_; List. _partes XV ... pondo lib.... qui continent sextarios sex_. One sextarius (a "sixth") equals about 1-1/2 pint English. [2] Pepper. _Piperis uncias IV_--ordinarily our black or white pepper grains, but in connection with honey, sweets, and so forth, the term "pepper" may just as well stand for our allspice, or even for any spicing in general. [3] Charcoal. Still a favorite filterer for liquors. List. Apicius is correct in starting his book with this formula, as all meals were started with this sort of mixed drink. Tor. deviates from the other texts in that he elaborates on the cooking process. [2] HONEY REFRESHER FOR TRAVELERS _CONDITUM MELIZOMUM _[1]_ VIATORIUM_ THE WAYFARER'S HONEY REFRESHER (SO CALLED BECAUSE IT GIVES ENDURANCE AND STRENGTH TO PEDESTRIANS) [2] WITH WHICH TRAVELERS ARE REFRESHED BY THE WAYSIDE IS MADE IN THIS MANNER: FLAVOR HONEY WITH GROUND PEPPER AND SKIM. IN THE MOMENT OF SERVING PUT HONEY IN A CUP, AS MUCH AS IS DESIRED TO OBTAIN THE RIGHT DEGREE OF SWEETNESS, AND MIX SPICED WINE NOT MORE THAN A NEEDED QUANTITY; ALSO ADD SOME WINE TO THE SPICED HONEY TO FACILITATE ITS FLOW AND THE MIXING. [1] Tor. _Melirhomum_; _non extat_. G.-V. M. _perpetuum_, i.e., having good keeping qualities. [2] Tor. reads thus whereas others apply "endurance" to the honey itself. The honey could not be preserved (_perpetuum_) by the addition of pepper. Any addition, as a matter of fact, would hasten its deterioration unless the honey were boiled and sealed tight, which the original takes for granted. II [3] ROMAN VERMOUTH _ABSINTHIUM ROMANUM_ [1] ROMAN VERMOUTH [or Absinth] IS MADE THUS: ACCORDING TO THE RECIPE OF CAMERINUM [2] YOU NEED WORMWOOD FROM SANTO [3] FOR ROMAN VERMOUTH OR, AS A SUBSTITUTE, WORMWOOD FROM THE PONTUS [4] CLEANED AND CRUSHED, 1 THEBAN OUNCE [5] OF IT, 6 SCRUPLES OF MASTICH, 3 EACH OF [nard] LEAVES, COSTMARY [6] AND SAFFRON AND 18 QUARTS OF ANY KIND OF MILD WINE. [Filter cold] CHARCOAL IS NOT REQUIRED BECAUSE OF THE BITTERNESS. [1] G.-V. _Apsinthium_. [2] The mention of a name in a recipe is very infrequent. Camerinum is a town in Umbria. [3] Now Saintonge, Southern France. [4] Black Sea Region. [5] Weight of indefinite volume, from Thebæ, one of the several ancient cities by that name. List. thinks it is an Egyptian ounce, and that the author of the recipe must be an African. [6] Wanting in Tor.; G.-V. _costi scripulos senos_. III [4] ROSE WINE [1] _ROSATUM_ MAKE ROSE WINE IN THIS MANNER: ROSE PETALS, THE LOWER WHITE PART REMOVED, SEWED INTO A LINEN BAG AND IMMERSED IN WINE FOR SEVEN DAYS. THEREUPON ADD A SACK OF NEW PETALS WHICH ALLOW TO DRAW FOR ANOTHER SEVEN DAYS. AGAIN REMOVE THE OLD PETALS AND REPLACE THEM BY FRESH ONES FOR ANOTHER WEEK; THEN STRAIN THE WINE THROUGH THE COLANDER. BEFORE SERVING, ADD HONEY SWEETENING TO TASTE. TAKE CARE THAT ONLY THE BEST PETALS FREE FROM DEW BE USED FOR SOAKING. [1] Used principally as a laxative medicine. List. These wines compounded of roses and violets move the bowels strongly. [5] VIOLET WINE _VIOLATIUM_ IN A SIMILAR WAY AS ABOVE LIKE THE ROSE WINE VIOLET WINE IS MADE OF FRESH VIOLETS, AND TEMPERED WITH HONEY, AS DIRECTED. [6] ROSE WINE WITHOUT [1] ROSES _ROSATUM SINE ROSA_ ROSE WINE WITHOUT ROSES IS MADE IN THIS FASHION: A PALM LEAF BASKET FULL OF FRESH CITRUS LEAVES IS IMMERSED IN THE VAT OF NEW WINE BEFORE FERMENTATION HAS SET IN. AFTER FORTY DAYS RETIRE THE LEAVES, AND, AS OCCASION ARISES, SWEETEN THE WINE WITH HONEY, AND PASS IT UP FOR ROSE WINE. [1] A substitute. IV [7] LIBURNIAN OIL _OLEUM LIBURNICUM_ IN ORDER TO MAKE AN OIL SIMILAR TO THE LIBURNIAN OIL PROCEED AS FOLLOWS: IN SPANISH OIL PUT [the following mixture of] ELECAMPANE, CYPRIAN RUSH AND GREEN LAUREL LEAVES THAT ARE NOT TOO OLD, ALL OF IT CRUSHED AND MACERATED AND REDUCED TO A FINE POWDER. SIFT THIS IN AND ADD FINELY GROUND SALT AND STIR INDUSTRIOUSLY FOR THREE DAYS OR MORE. THEN ALLOW TO SETTLE. EVERYBODY WILL TAKE THIS FOR LIBURNIAN OIL. [1] [1] Like the above a flagrant case of food adulteration. V [8] TO CLARIFY MUDDY WINE _VINUM EX ATRO CANDIDUM FACIES_ PUT BEAN MEAL AND THE WHITES OF THREE EGGS IN A MIXING BOWL. MIX THOROUGHLY WITH A WHIP AND ADD TO THE WINE, STIRRING FOR A LONG TIME. THE NEXT DAY THE WINE WILL BE CLEAR [1]. ASHES OF VINES HAVE THE SAME EFFECT. [1] Ex Lister whose version we prefer. He says, _Alias die erit candidum_ while Tor. adds white salt, saying, _sal si adieceris candidum_, same as Tac. This is unusual, although the ancients have at times treated wine with sea water. VI [9] TO IMPROVE A BROTH [1] _DE LIQUAMINE EMENDANDO_ [2] IF BROTH HAS CONTRACTED A BAD ODOR, PLACE A VESSEL UPSIDE DOWN AND FUMIGATE IT WITH LAUREL AND CYPRESS AND BEFORE VENTILATING [3] IT, POUR THE BROTH IN THIS VESSEL. IF THIS DOES NOT HELP MATTERS [4] AND IF THE TASTE IS TOO PRONOUNCED, ADD HONEY AND FRESH SPIKENARD [5] TO IT; THAT WILL IMPROVE IT. ALSO NEW MUST SHOULD BE LIKEWISE EFFECTIVE [6]. [1] List. _Liquamen, id est, garum_. Goll. Fish sauce. [2] Tor. _Qui liquamen corruptum corrigatur_. [3] Dann. Ventilate it. Goll. Whip the sauce in fresh air. [4] List., G.-V. _si salsum fuerit_--if this makes it too salty--Tor. _si hoc nihil effecerit_. [5] Tor. _novem spicam immittas_; List. _Move spica_; Goll.-Dann. stir with a whip. [6] A classic example of Apician confusion when one interpreter reads "s" for "f" and "_novem_" for "_move_" and another reads something else. Tor. is more correct than the others, but this formula is beyond redemption. Fate has decreed that ill-smelling broths shall be discarded. VII [10] TO KEEP MEATS FRESH WITHOUT SALT FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME _UT CARNES SINE SALE QUOVIS TEMPORE RECENTES SINT_ COVER FRESH MEAT WITH HONEY, SUSPEND IT IN A VESSEL. USE AS NEEDED; IN WINTER IT WILL KEEP BUT IN SUMMER IT WILL LAST ONLY A FEW DAYS. COOKED MEAT MAY BE TREATED LIKEWISE. [11] TO KEEP COOKED SIDES OF PORK OR BEEF OR TENDERLOINS _CALLUM PORCINUM VEL BUBULUM ET UNGUELLÆ COCTÆ UT DIU DURENT_ PLACE THEM IN A PICKLE OF MUSTARD, VINEGAR, SALT AND HONEY, COVERING MEAT ENTIRELY, AND WHEN READY TO USE YOU'LL BE SURPRISED. V. Method still popular today for pickling raw meats. The originals treat of cooked meats (Tor. _nucula elixa_; G.-V. _unguellæ coctæ_; Tac. _nucella cocta_). Dispensing with the honey, we use more spices, whole pepper, cloves, bay leaves, also onions and root vegetables. Sometimes a little sugar and wine is added to this preparation which the French call _marinade_ and the Germans _Sauerbraten-Einlage_. VIII [12] TO MAKE SALT MEAT SWEET _UT CARNEM SALSAM DULCEM FACIAS_ YOU CAN MAKE SALT MEATS SWEET BY FIRST BOILING THEM IN MILK AND THEN FINISHING THEM IN WATER. V. Method still in practice today. Salt mackerel, finnan haddie, etc., are parboiled in milk prior to being boiled in water or broiled or fried. IX [13] TO KEEP FRIED FISH _UT PISCES FRICTI DIU DURENT_ IMMEDIATELY AFTER THEY ARE FRIED POUR HOT VINEGAR OVER THEM. Dann. Exactly as we today with fried herring and river lamprey. [14] TO KEEP OYSTERS _OSTREA UT DIU DURENT_ FUMIGATE A VINEGAR BARREL WITH PITCH [1], WASH IT OUT WITH VINEGAR AND STACK THE OYSTERS IN IT [2] [1] Tor. _vas ascernum_, corrected on margin, _ab aceto_. List. _vas ab aceto_, which is correct. G.-V. _lavas ab aceto_; V. the oysters? unthinkable! Besides it would do no good. [2] Goll. Take oysters out of the shell, place in vinegar barrel, sprinkle with laurel berries, fine salt, close tight. V. Goll's authority for this version is not found in our originals. V. There is no way to keep live oysters fresh except in their natural habitat--salt water. Today we pack them in barrels, feed them with oatmeal, put weights on them--of no avail. The only way English oysters could have arrived fresh in Imperial Rome was in specially constructed bottoms of the galleys. X [15] MAKING A LITTLE LASER GO A LONG WAY _UT NUCIA _[1]_ LASERIS TOTO TEMPORE UTARIS_ PUT THE LASER [2] IN A SPACIOUS GLASS VESSEL; IMMERSE ABOUT 20 PINE KERNELS [pignolia nuts] IF YOU NEED LASER FLAVOR, TAKE SOME NUTS, CRUSH THEM; THEY WILL IMPART TO YOUR DISH AN ADMIRABLE FLAVOR. REPLACE THE USED NUTS WITH A LIKE NUMBER OF FRESH ONES [3] [1] List. and G.-V. _uncia_--ounce. Making an ounce of laser go a long way. Tor. _nucea_; Tac. _nucia_. Lister, fond of hair-splitting, is irreconcilably opposed to Tor., and berates Caspar Barthius for defending Tor. List. _Quam futilis sit in multis labor C. Barthii ut menda Torini passim sustineat, vel ex hoc loco intelligere licet: Et enim lege modo uncia pro nucea cum Humelbergio, & ista omnia glossemata vana sunt._ V. both readings, _uncia_ or _nucia_ are permissible, and make very little difference. We side with Tor. and Tac. because it takes more than an ounce of laser to carry out this experiment. [2] _Laser_, _laserpitium_, cf. dictionary. [3] V. This article illustrates how sparingly the ancients used the strong and pungent laser flavor [by some believed to be _asa foetida_] because it was very expensive, but principally because the Roman cooks worked economically and knew how to treat spices and flavors judiciously. This article alone should disperse for all time all stories of ancient Rome's extravagance in flavoring and seasoning dishes. It reminds of the methods used by European cooks to get the utmost use out of the expensive vanilla bean: they bury the bean in a can of powdered sugar. They will use the sugar only which has soon acquired a delicate vanilla perfume, and will replace the used sugar by a fresh supply. This is by far a superior method to using the often rank and adulterated "vanilla extract" readily bottled. It is more gastronomical and more economical. Most commercial extracts are synthetic, some injurious. To believe that any of them impart to the dishes the true flavor desired is of course ridiculous. The enormous consumption of such extracts however, is characteristic of our industrialized barbarism which is so utterly indifferent to the fine points in food. Today it is indeed hard for the public to obtain a real vanilla bean. Cf. also notes regarding flavoring to Nos. 276-7, 345 and 385. XI [16] TO MAKE HONEY CAKES LAST _UT DULCIA DE MELLE DIU DURENT_ TO MAKE HONEY CAKES THAT WILL KEEP TAKE WHAT THE GREEKS CALL YEAST [1] AND MIX IT WITH THE FLOUR AND THE HONEY AT THE TIME WHEN MAKING THE COOKY DOUGH. [1] Tor. and Tac. _nechon_; G.-V. _cnecon_; Dann. _penion_. [17] SPOILED HONEY MADE GOOD _UT MEL MALUM BONUM FACIAS_ HOW BAD HONEY MAY BE TURNED INTO A SALEABLE ARTICLE IS TO MIX ONE PART OF THE SPOILED HONEY WITH TWO PARTS OF GOOD HONEY. List. _indigna fraus_! V. We all agree with Lister that this is contemptible business. This casts another light on the ancients' methods of food adulteration. [18] TO TEST SPOILED HONEY _MEL CORRUPTUM UT PROBES_ IMMERSE ELENCAMPANE IN HONEY AND LIGHT IT; IF GOOD, IT WILL BURN BRIGHTLY. XII [19] TO KEEP GRAPES _UVÆ UT DIU SERVENTUR_ TAKE PERFECT GRAPES FROM THE VINES, PLACE THEM IN A VESSEL AND POUR RAIN WATER OVER THEM THAT HAS BEEN BOILED DOWN ONE THIRD OF ITS VOLUME. THE VESSEL MUST BE PITCHED AND SEALED WITH PLASTER, AND MUST BE KEPT IN A COOL PLACE TO WHICH THE SUN HAS NO ACCESS. TREATED IN THIS MANNER, THE GRAPES WILL BE FRESH WHENEVER YOU NEED THEM. YOU CAN ALSO SERVE THIS WATER AS HONEY MEAD TO THE SICK. ALSO, IF YOU COVER THE GRAPES WITH BARLEY [bran] YOU WILL FIND THEM SOUND AND UNINJURED. V. We keep grapes in cork shavings, bran and saw dust. [20] TO KEEP POMEGRANATES _UT MALA GRANATA DIU DURENT_ [1] STEEP THEM INTO HOT [sea] WATER, TAKE THEM OUT IMMEDIATELY AND HANG THEM UP. [Tor.] THEY WILL KEEP. [1] Tor. _conditura malorum Punicorum_; Tac. _mala granata_; G.-V. _mala et mala granata_. [21] TO KEEP QUINCES _UT MALA CYDONIA DIU SERVENTUR_ PICK OUT PERFECT QUINCES WITH STEMS [1] AND LEAVES. PLACE THEM IN A VESSEL, POUR OVER HONEY AND DEFRUTUM [2] AND YOU'LL PRESERVE THEM FOR A LONG TIME [3]. [1] V. Excellent idea, for the stems, if removed, would leave a wound in the fruit for the air to penetrate and to start fermentation. Cf. also the next formula. [2] G.-V. _defritum_, from _defervitum_; _defrutum_ is new wine, spiced, boiled down to one half of its volume. [3] This precept would not keep the fruit very long unless protected by a closefitting cover and sterilization. Cf. No. 24. [22] TO PRESERVE FRESH FIGS, APPLES, PLUMS, PEARS AND CHERRIES _FICUM RECENTEM, MALA, PRUNA, PIRA, CERASIA UT DIU SERVES_ SELECT THEM ALL VERY CAREFULLY WITH THE STEMS ON [1] AND PLACE THEM IN HONEY SO THEY DO NOT TOUCH EACH OTHER. [1] See the preceding formula. [23] TO KEEP CITRON _CITRIA UT DIU DURENT_ [1] PLACE THEM IN A GLASS [2] VESSEL WHICH IS SEALED WITH PLASTER AND SUSPENDED. [1] Tor. _conditura malorum Medicorum quæ et citria dicuntur_. V. Not quite identified. Fruit coming from Asia Minor, Media or Persia, one of the many varieties of citrus fruit. Probably citron because of their size. Goll. Lemon-apples; Dann. lemons (oranges). List. _Scilicet mala, quæ Dioscorides Persica quoque & Medica, & citromala, Plinius item Assyria appellari dicit_. [2] G.-V. _vas vitreum_; Tac. and Tor. _vas citrum_; V. a glass vessel could not be successfully sealed with plaster paris, and the experiment would fail; cf. note 3 to No. 21. [24] TO KEEP MULBERRIES _MORA UT DIU DURENT_ MULBERRIES, IN ORDER TO KEEP THEM, MUST BE LAID INTO THEIR OWN JUICE MIXED WITH NEW WINE [boiled down to one half] IN A GLASS VESSEL AND MUST BE WATCHED ALL THE TIME [so that they do not spoil]. V. This and the foregoing formulæ illustrate the ancients' attempts at preserving foods, and they betray their ignorance of "processing" by heating them in hermetically sealed vessels, the principle of which was not discovered until 1810 by Appert which started the now gigantic industry of canning. [25] TO KEEP POT HERBS [_H_]_OLERA UT DIU SERVENTUR_ PLACE SELECTED POT HERBS, NOT TOO MATURE, IN A PITCHED VESSEL. [26] TO PRESERVE SORREL OR SOUR DOCK _LAPÆ _[1]_ UT DIU SERVENTUR_ TRIM AND CLEAN [the vegetable] PLACE THEM TOGETHER SPRINKLE MYRTLE BERRIES BETWEEN, COVER WITH HONEY AND VINEGAR. ANOTHER WAY: PREPARE MUSTARD HONEY AND VINEGAR ALSO SALT AND COVER THEM WITH THE SAME. [1] The kind of vegetable to be treated here has not been sufficiently identified. List. and G.-V. _rapæ_--turnips--from _rapus_, seldom _rapa_,--a rape, turnip, navew. Tac. and Tor. _Lapæ_ (_lapathum_), kind of sorrel, monk's rhubarb, dock. Tor. explaining at length: _conditura Rumicis quod lapathon Græci, Latini Lapam quoque dicunt_. V. Tor. is correct, or nearly so. Turnips, in the first place, are not in need of any special method of preservation. They keep very well in a cool, well-ventilated place; in fact they would hardly keep very long if treated in the above manner. These directions are better applied to vegetables like dock or monk's rhubarb. Lister, taking Humelbergii word for it, accepts "turnips" as the only truth; but he has little occasion to assail Torinus as he does: _Torinus lapam legit, & nullibi temeritatem suam atque inscientiam magis ostendit._ Now, if Torinus, according to Lister, "nowhere displays more nerve and ignorance" we can well afford to trust Torinus in cases such as this. [27] TO KEEP TRUFFLES _TUBERA UT DIU SERVENTUR_ THE TRUFFLES WHICH MUST NOT BE TOUCHED BY WATER ARE PLACED ALTERNATELY IN DRY SAWDUST; SEAL THE VESSEL WITH PLASTER AND DEPOSIT IT IN A COOL PLACE. Dann. Clean [peel] the truffles ... in another vessel place the peelings, seal the vessels.... V. this would be the ruin of the truffles, unless they were "processed" in the modern way. Our originals have nothing that would warrant this interpretation. [28] TO KEEP HARD-SKINNED PEACHES _DURACINA PERSICA UT DIU DURENT_ SELECT THE BEST AND PUT THEM IN BRINE. THE NEXT DAY REMOVE THEM AND RINSING THEM CAREFULLY SET THEM IN PLACE IN A VESSEL, SPRINKLE WITH SALT AND SATURY AND IMMERSE IN VINEGAR. XIII [29] SALTS FOR MANY [ILLS] _SALES CONDITOS AD MULTA_ THESE SPICED SALTS ARE USED AGAINST INDIGESTION, TO MOVE THE BOWELS, AGAINST ALL ILLNESS, AGAINST PESTILENCE AS WELL AS FOR THE PREVENTION OF COLDS. THEY ARE VERY GENTLE INDEED AND MORE HEALTHFUL THAN YOU WOULD EXPECT. [Tor. MAKE THEM IN THIS MANNER]: 1 LB. OF COMMON SALT GROUND, 2 LBS. OF AMMONIAC SALT, GROUND [List. AND G.-V. 3 OZS. WHITE PEPPER, 2 OZS. GINGER] 1 OZ. [Tor. 1-1/2 OZ.] OF AMINEAN BRYONY, 1 OF THYME SEED AND 1 OF CELERY SEED [Tor. 1-1/2 OZ.] IF YOU DON'T WANT TO USE CELERY SEED TAKE INSTEAD 3 OZS. OF PARSLEY [SEED] 3 OZS. OF ORIGANY, 1 OZ. OF SAFFRON [List. and G.-V. ROCKET] 3 OZS. OF BLACK PEPPER [1] 1-1/2 OZS. ROCKET SEED, 2 OZS. OF MARJORAM [List. and G.-V. CRETAN HYSSOP] 2 OZS. OF NARD LEAVES, 2 OZS. OF PARSLEY [SEED] AND 2 OZS. OF ANISE SEED. [1] In view of the white pepper as directed above, this seems superfluous. White pepper and ginger omitted by Tor. This is one of the few medical formulæ found in Apicius. Edward Brandt, _op. cit._, Apiciana No. 29, points out the similarity of this formula with that of the physician, Marcellus, who lived at Rome under Nero, Marcell. med. 30, 51. XIV [30] TO KEEP GREEN OLIVES _OLIVAS VIRIDES SERVARE_ TO KEEP OLIVES, FRESH FROM THE TREE, IN A MANNER ENABLING YOU TO MAKE OIL FROM THEM ANY TIME YOU DESIRE JUST PLACE THEM [in brine]. [1] HAVING BEEN KEPT THUS FOR SOME TIME THE OLIVES MAY BE USED AS IF THEY HAD JUST COME OFF THE TREE FRESH IF YOU DESIRE TO MAKE GREEN OIL OF THEM. [1] The original does not state the liquid in which the olives are to be placed. Hum. _in illud, legendum puto, in muriam_. Hum. is correct. Olives are preserved in brine to this day. Schuch's version of this formula (his No. 27) follows our No. 28, together with his own No. 28, To Keep Damascene Plums [etc.] which is wanting in List., G.-V., and all the earlier editions because it is from the codex Salmasianus and will be found among the Excerpts of Vinidarius at the end of the Apician recipes. XV [CUMINATUM. Hum., List. and G.-V.--Tac. and Tor. at the end of Book I.] XVI [31] LASER FLAVOR _LASERATUM_ [Tor.] LASER IS PREPARED IN THIS MANNER: LASER (WHICH IS ALSO CALLED LASERPITIUM BY THE ROMANS, WHILE THE GREEKS CALL IT SILPHION) FROM CYRENE [1] OR FROM PARTHIA [2] IS DISSOLVED IN LUKEWARM MODERATELY ACID BROTH; OR PEPPER, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, LASER ROOT, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH [are ground, compounded and dissolved together]. [1] Cyrene, a province in Africa, reputed for its fine flavored laser. [2] Parthia, Asiatic country, still supplying _asa f{oe}tida_. The African root furnishing laser was exterminated by the demand for it. Cf. Laser in Index. [32] ANOTHER [LASER] _ALITER_ [ANOTHER LASER FLAVOR WHICH TAKES] PEPPER, CARAWAY, ANISE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, THE LEAVES [1] OF SILPHIUM, MALOBATHRUM [2] INDIAN SPIKENARD, A LITTLE COSTMARY, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. [1] Tor. _Silphij folium_; List. _Sylphium, folium_; G.-V. _Silfi, folium_, the latter two interpretations meaning _silphium_ (laser) _and leaves_ (either nard or bay leaves) while both Tor. and Tac. (_silfii folium_) mean the leaves of _silphium_ plant. [2] _Malobathrum_, _malobatrum_, _malabathrum_--leaves of an Indian tree, wild cinnamon. XVII [33] WINE SAUCE FOR TRUFFLES _{OE}NOGARUM _[1]_ IN TUBERA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, RUE, BROTH, HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. ANOTHER WAY: THYME, SATURY, PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH AND OIL. [1] Also _Elæogarum_. V. Directions wanting whether the above ingredients are to be added to the already prepared _garum_, which see in dictionary. Gollmer gives the following direction for _garum_: Boil a _sextarium_ of anchovies and 3 _sextarii_ of good wine until it is thick _purée_. Strain this through a hair sieve and keep it in glass flask for future use. This formula, according to Goll. should have followed our No. 9; but we find no authority for it in the original. _Oenogarum_ proper would be a _garum_ prepared with wine, but in this instance it is the broth in which the truffles were cooked that is to be flavored with the above ingredients. There is no need and no mention of _garum_ proper. Thus prepared it might turn out to be a sensible sauce for truffles in the hands of a good practitioner. Note the etymology of the word "garum," now serving as a generic name for "sauce" which originally stood for a compound of the fish _garus_. Cf. _Garum_ in index. XVIII [34] OXYPORUM _OXYPORUM_ [Tor. OXYPORUM (WHICH SIGNIFIES "EASY PASSAGE") SO NAMED BECAUSE OF ITS EFFECT, TAKES] 2 OZS. OF CUMIN, 1 OZ. OF GINGER [List. 1 OZ. OF GREEN RUE] 6 SCRUPLES OF SALTPETER, A DOZEN SCRUPLES OF PLUMP DATES, 1 OZ. OF PEPPER AND 11 [List. 9] OZS. OF HONEY. THE CUMIN MAY BE EITHER ÆTHIOPIAN, SYRIAN OR LYBIAN, MUST BE FIRST SOAKED IN VINEGAR, BOILED DOWN DRY AND POUNDED. AFTERWARDS ADD YOUR HONEY. THIS COMPOUND, AS NEEDED, IS USED AS OXYPORUM. Cf. No. 111, A Harmless Salad. Bran. _op. cit._, p. 25-6, of Greek origin. XIX [35] HYPOTRIMA [1] _HYPOTRIMA_ [Tor. HYPOTRIMA, MEANING IN LATIN A PERFECT MESS OF POTAGE, REQUIRES THIS]: PEPPER, LOVAGE, DRY MINT, PIGNOLIA NUTS, RAISINS, DATE WINE, SWEET CHEESE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, MUST OR REDUCED MUST [2] [1] List. and G.-V. _Hypotrimma_. V. This formula, lacking detailed instructions, is of course perfectly obscure, and it would be useless to debate over it. [2] Tor. and Tac. _cariotam_; Sch. _cariotum_; List. and G.-V. _car{oe}num_. This (_carenum_) is new wine boiled down one half of its volume. _Cariotum_ is a palm wine or date wine. XX [36] OXYGARUM, AN AID TO DIGESTION _OXYGARUM DIGESTIBILE_ [Tor. OXYGARUM (WHICH IS SIMILAR TO GARUM OR RATHER AN ACID SAUCE) IS DIGESTIBLE AND IS COMPOSED OF]: 1/2 OZ. OF PEPPER, 3 SCRUPLES OF GALLIC SILPHIUM, 6 SCRUPLES OF CARDAMOM, 6 OF CUMIN, 1 SCRUPLE OF LEAVES, 6 SCRUPLES OF DRY MINT. THESE [ingredients] ARE BROKEN SINGLY AND CRUSHED AND [made into a paste] BOUND BY HONEY. WHEN THIS WORK IS DONE [or whenever you desire] ADD BROTH AND VINEGAR [to taste]. Cf. Note to No. 33. [37] ANOTHER [OXYGARUM] [1] _ALITER_ 1 OZ. EACH OF PEPPER, PARSLEY, CARRAWAY, LOVAGE, MIX WITH HONEY. WHEN DONE ADD BROTH AND VINEGAR. [1] Wanting in Torinus. XXI [38] MORTARIA [1] _MORTARIA_ MORTARIA ARE PREPARATIONS MADE IN THE MORTAR. PLACE IN THE MORTAR [Tor.] MINT, RUE, CORIANDER AND FENNEL, ALL FRESH AND GREEN AND CRUSH THEM FINE. LOVAGE, PEPPER, HONEY AND BROTH [2] AND VINEGAR [3] TO BE ADDED WHEN THE WORK IS DONE. Ex Tor. first sentence wanting in other texts. [1] List. and G.-V. _moretaria_, from _moretum_. [2] Dann. calls this "_Kalte Schale_" which as a rule is a drink or a cold refreshing soup, popular on the Continent in hot weather. Not a bad interpretation if instead of the broth the original called for wine or fruit juices. V. _Mortaria_ are ingredients crushed in the mortar, ready to be used in several combinations, similar to the ground fine herbs, _remoulade_, in French cuisine that may be used for various purposes, principally for cold green sauces. [3] Wanting in Tor. [XV] [39] CUMIN SAUCE FOR SHELLFISH _CUMINATUM IN OSTREA ET CONCHYLIA_ [Tor. CUMIN SAUCE (SO CALLED BECAUSE CUMIN IS ITS CHIEF INGREDIENT) FOR OYSTERS AND CLAMS IS MADE OF] PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, MALABAR LEAVES, QUITE SOME CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR, AND BROTH. [40] ANOTHER [CUMIN SAUCE] [1] _ALITER_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, DRY MINT, PLENTY OF CUMIN, HONEY, VINEGAR AND BROTH. [1] wanting in List. The cumin sauce formulæ are under chap. XV in G.-V., following our No. 30. END OF BOOK I _EXPLICIT APICII EPIMELES LIBER PRIMUS_ [Tac.] {Illustration: COLANDER FOR STRAINING WINE The intricate design of the perforation denotes that this strainer was used for straining wine. Various other strainers of simpler design, with and without handles, were used in the kitchen and bakery. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 77602; Field M., 24307.} APICIUS