BOOK X. THE FISHERMAN [1]

_Lib. X. Halieus_ CHAP. I. DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH. CHAP. II. MURENAS. CHAP. III. EEL. The numbers of the chapters differ in the various texts. I [432] A SAUCE FINES HERBES FOR FRIED FISH _IUS DIABOTANON _[2]_ PRO _[3]_ PISCE FRIXO_ USE ANY KIND OF FISH. PREPARE [clean, salt, turn in flour] SALT [4] AND FRY IT. CRUSH PEPPER, CUMIN, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, AND RUE, ALL CRUSHED FINE, MOISTENED WITH VINEGAR, DATE WINE, HONEY, REDUCED MUST, OIL AND BROTH. POUR IN A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON FIRE, WHEN SIMMERING POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] This chapter principally deals with fish sauces. Apparently it is by a different author than Books I-VIII, which have many formulæ for fish. While we have no direct proof, we are inclined to believe that Book X is a Roman version of a Greek treatise on fish sauces, a monograph, of which there existed many, according to Athenæus, which specialized on the various departments of cookery. [2] Tor. _Diabotom_ (in Greek characters); Greek, relating to herbs. [3] Tor. G.-V. _in_. [4] G.-V. _salsas_. [433] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, SMALL ONIONS, ORIGANY, NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT THIS SAUCE, AND IF YOU WISH [it to be richer, add] RAISINS. [434] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _ALITER IN PISCE ELIXO_ [1] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SATURY, ONION, [hard] BOILED YOLKS, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, OIL AND BROTH. [1] Tor. _frixo_--fried fish, although his heading reads _elixo_. [435] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ PREPARE THE FISH CAREFULLY; IN THE MORTAR PUT SALT, CORIANDER SEED, CRUSH AND MIX WELL; TURN THE FISH THEREIN, PUT IT IN A PAN, COVER IT AND SEAL IT WITH PLASTER [1] COOK IT IN THE OVEN. WHEN DONE RETIRE [the fish from the pan] SPRINKLE WITH STRONG VINEGAR AND SERVE. [1] Remarkable culinary ingenuity, resembling in principle the North American Indian method of cooking whitefish wrapped in clay. Today we use flour and water made into a stiff paste to seal a pan hermetically if no "pressure cooker" is available. This formula cannot be classified under "Sauce for Boiled Fish." [436] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _ALITER IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ WHEN THE FISH IS PREPARED, PUT THE SAME IN A FLAT PAN WITH CORIANDER SEED, WATER AND GREEN DILL; WHEN COOKED SPRINKLE WITH VINEGAR AND SERVE [1]. [1] Another fair example of the incompleteness, on the one hand, of the directions, and of the superfluity, on the other hand, of words such as the initial and the closing words, which characterizes so many of the formulæ. This is characteristic of ever so many culinary authors of all ages, who, lacking literary training, assume that the reader is thoroughly versed with the methods indicated. A versatile modern author would have said: "Poach the filleted fish in small water seasoned with coriander seed and green dill; sprinkle with vinegar before serving." He mentioned neither the salt nor the oil which he undoubtedly used. [437] ALEXANDRINE [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_ PEPPER, DRY ONIONS [shallots] LOVAGE, CUMIN, ORIGANY, CELERY SEED, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES [pounded in the mortar] FILLED UP [2] WITH VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND OIL, AND COOK IT. [1] Alexandria, Egyptian city, at the mouth of the river Nile, third of the three great cities of antiquity excepting Carthage during Apicius' time a rival of Rome and Athens in splendor and commerce. Most important as a Mediterranean port, where fishing and fish eating was (and still is) good. [2] G.-V. _mulsum_, mead. [438] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL, COOKED TOGETHER. [439] ANOTHER ALEXANDRINE SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _ALITER IUS ALEXANDRINUM IN PISCE ASSO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, GREEN CORIANDER, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, RAISIN WINE, BROTH, OIL AND VINEGAR, AND COOK. [440] SAUCE FOR BROILED CONGER _IUS IN CONGRO ASSO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD YOLKS, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, AND COOK. G.-V. _Gongo_. [441] SAUCE FOR HORNED FISH [1] _IUS IN CORNUTAM_ [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, ONIONS, SEEDLESS RAISINS, WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; AND COOK IT [2] [1] _Cornuta_, _cornutus_--"horned," "having horns"--an unidentified sea fish. [2] Goll. collects all succeeding formulæ for sauces into one. [442] SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET _IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, HONEY, NUTS, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; HEAT AND POUR OVER [1]. [1] List. is of the opinion that this is fresh mullet, while salt mullet was treated in the preceding formulæ. [443] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MULLET _ALITER IUS IN MULLOS ASSOS_ RUE, MINT, CORIANDER, FENNEL,--ALL OF THEM GREEN--PEPPER, LOVAGE, HONEY, BROTH, AND A LITTLE OIL. [444] SEASONING FOR BABY TUNNY _IUS IN PELAMYDE ASSA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, ONION, SEEDLESS RAISINS [1], RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL, AND COOK. [1] Wanting in Tor. [445] THIS SAUCE IS ALSO SUITABLE FOR BOILED [tunny]; IF DESIRED ADD HONEY. [446] SAUCE FOR PERCH _IUS IN PERCAM_ [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CRUSHED CUMIN, ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, OIL, REDUCED MUST; COOK IT. [1] _Perca_, perch--sea perch or sea bass. [447] SEASONING FOR REDSNAPPER _CONDIMENTUM IN RUBELLIONEM_ [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, WILD THYME, CELERY SEED, DRY ONIONS, WINE, RAISIN WINE, VINEGAR, BROTH AND OIL; BIND WITH ROUX. [1] _Rubellio_--a "reddish" fish; perhaps a species of the red-mullet or red-snapper. Hum. says the Latins called the fish _rubelliones_, _rubellos_ and _rubros_; the Greeks _erythrinos_ or _erythricos_, because of their reddish color. A fish, according to Athenæus similar to the _pager_ or _pagrus_, _phager_ or _phagrus_, also called _pagur_, which is not quite identified. II [448] SAUCE FOR [BROILED] MURENA _IUS IN MURENA [ASSA]_ [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, SAFFRON [2], ONIONS, STONED DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST AND OIL; COOK IT [3]. [1] V. doubting that this is broiled. [2] Tor. _Crocomagma_; List. _crocum magnum_, still used today in some fish preparations, particularly in the Bouillabaisse. [3] The laconic style in which all these fish preparations are given, is very confusing to the uninitiated. We assume that most of these ingredients were used to season the water in which to boil fish; or, to make a _court-bouillon_, a fish-essence of the bones and the trimmings of the fish, in which to poach the sliced fish. The liquor thus gained was reduced and in the moment of serving was bound with roux or with yolks, and the fish was masked with this sauce. The exceptions from this rule are, of course, in cases where the fish was broiled or fried. [449] SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA _IUS IN MURENA ASSA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, [stoned] DAMASCUS PRUNES, WINE, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, REDUCED MUST, OIL; COOK IT. [450] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BROILED MURENA _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ASSA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CATMINT [1] CORIANDER SEED, ONIONS, PINE NUTS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT. [1] _Nepeta montana_--nep. [451] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA [1] _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, DILL, CELERY SEED, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, PINE NUTS, RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE [2] BROTH, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND BIND WITH ROUX. [1] Ex Tac. and Tor.; wanting in List. and G.-V. [2] Tac.; wanting in Tor. [452] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, CELERY SEED [1] CORIANDER, FIGDATES, MUSTARD, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED WINE. [1] List., Sch., Dann. add here which is wanting in Tor. _rhus Syriacum_--Syrian Sumach. The originals are considerably confused on the above and the following formulæ. [453] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR BOILED MURENA _ALITER IUS IN MURENA ELIXA_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, VINEGAR, CELERY SEED, SYRIAN SUMACH [1] FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, AND REDUCED MUST. SERVE [2]. [1] See note to {Rx} No. 452. [2] Ex Tor. It appears that this formula is a correction of {Rx} No. 452, as this is wanting in the other editions. Tor. also lacks the following formula. In Tac. the above formula follows the next. [454] SAUCE FOR BOILED FISH _IUS IN PISCE ELIXO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, PARSLEY, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, WHEN BOILING, TIE WITH ROUX AND SERVE IN A SMALL SAUCE BOAT [1]. [1] _in lance_; _lanx_ may also mean a large oblong platter on which fish would be served. Cf. illustration Oval Dish with Handles. Horace II Sat. 8--_in patina porrecta_--a special dish to hold the cooked _murena_ and to display it to advantage. Such special dishes are found in any good table service, to serve special purposes. Not so long ago special forks and knives were used for fish service which have been gradually discarded. [455] SAUCE FOR BOILED LACERTUS FISH _IUS IN LACERTOS ELIXOS_ [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CUMIN, GREEN RUE, ONIONS, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, A LITTLE OIL; WHEN BOILING TIE WITH ROUX [2]. [1] _Lacertus_, an unidentified sea fish. [2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} No. 448. In G.-V. this formula precedes the above. [456] SAUCE FOR BROILED FISH _IUS IN PISCE ASSO_ A SAUCE FOR [this] BROILED FISH MAKE THUS [1] PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, GREEN CORIANDER, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, OIL, REDUCED MUST; HEAT AND STIR WELL WITH A WHIP OF RUE BRANCHES, AND TIE WITH ROUX. [1] Tor. wanting in others. [457] SAUCE FOR TUNNY _IUS IN THYNNO_ TUNNY, BY MEANS OF THIS SAUCE WILL BE MORE PALATABLE: [1] PEPPER, CUMIN, THYME, CORIANDER, ONIONS, RAISINS, VINEGAR, HONEY, WINE, AND OIL; HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, AND SERVE FOR DINNER [2]. [1] and [2] first and last sentences from Tor., wanting in others. [458] SAUCE FOR BOILED TUNNY _IUS IN THYNNO ELIXO_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, THYME, CRUSHED HERBS [1], ONIONS, FIG DATES [or fig wine] HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD AND TIE [2]. [1] _Condimenta mortaria_--herbs crushed in the "mortar"; also pulverized spices. [2] "and tie" wanting in List. Leave it out, and you have an acceptable _vinaigrette_--a cold sauce for cold fish. [459] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH FISH _IUS IN DENTICE ASSO_ [1] SAUCE FOR BROILED TOOTH [1] FISH IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CORIANDER, MINT, DRY RUE, COOKED QUINCES [3], HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL; HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. [1] _Dentex_; Hum. _dentex forma auratæ similis, verum major_--the tooth-fish is similar to the dory in shape, though larger. [2] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [3] _Malum Cydonicum._ [460] BOILED TOOTHFISH _IN DENTICE ELIXO_ [1] PEPPER, DILL, CUMIN, THYME, MINT, GREEN RUE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, WINE, A LITTLE OIL, HEAT AND TIE WITH ROUX. [1] Ex List.; wanting in Tor. [461] SAUCE FOR DORY _IUS IN PISCE AURATA_ [1] A SEASONING FOR DORY IS MADE THUS [2] PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, ORIGANY, RUE BERRIES, MINT, MYRTLE BERRIES, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, OIL, WINE, BROTH; HEAT AND USE IT SO. [1] _Aurata_--the "golden" dory. Very esteemed fish. Martial, III, Ep. 90: _Non omnis laudem preliúmque aurate meretur: Sed cui solus erit concha Lucrina cibus_ [2] Tor. wanting in other texts. [462] SAUCE FOR BROILED DORY. _IUS IN PISCE AURATA ASSA_ A SAUCE WHICH WILL MAKE BROILED DORY MORE TASTY CONSISTS OF [1] PEPPER, CORIANDER, DRY MINT, CELERY SEED, ONIONS, RAISINS, HONEY, VINEGAR, WINE, BROTH AND OIL. [463] SAUCE FOR SEA SCORPION [1] _IUS IN SCORPIONE ELIXO_ PEPPER, CARRAWAY, PARSLEY, FIGDATE WINE, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, OIL AND REDUCED WINE. [1] Sea scorpion, boiled like shellfish, with the above ingredients; the cold meat is separated from the shell and is eaten with _vinaigrette_ sauce. [464] WINE SAUCE FOR FISH _IN PISCE {OE}NOGARUM_ CRUSH PEPPER, RUE, AND HONEY; MIX IN RAISIN WINE, BROTH, REDUCED WINE; HEAT ON A VERY SLOW FIRE. [465] ANOTHER WAY _ALITER_ THE ABOVE, WHEN BOILING, MAY BE TIED WITH ROUX. III EEL [466] SAUCE FOR EEL _IUS IN ANGUILLAM_ EEL WILL BE MADE MORE PALATABLE BY A SAUCE WHICH HAS [1] PEPPER, CELERY SEED, LOVAGE [2], ANISE, SYRIAN SUMACH [3], FIGDATE WINE [4], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, MUSTARD, REDUCED MUST. [1] Tor. sentence wanting in other texts. [2] Note the position of lovage in this formula. Usually it follows pepper. We have finally accounted for this peculiarity. Torinus, throughout the original, treats "pepper" and "lovage" as one spice, whereas we have kept the two separate. He believed it to be a certain kind of pepper--_piper Ligusticum_. _Piper_, as a matter of fact, stands for pepper, and _Ligusticum_ is the herb, Lovage, an umbelliferous plant, also called _Levisticum_. The fact that the two words are here separated plainly shows that Torinus has been in the dark about this matter almost to the end. One wonders why he did not change or correct this error in the preceding books. His marginal errata prove that his work was being printed as he wrote it, or furnished copy therefor--namely in installments. Since the printer's type was limited, each sheet was printed in the complete edition, and the type was then used over again for the next sheet. [3] Tor. _thun_. [4] Wanting in Tor. [467] ANOTHER SAUCE FOR EEL _ALITER IUS IN ANGUILLAM_ PEPPER, LOVAGE, SYRIAN SUMACH, DRY MINT, RUE BERRIES, HARD YOLKS, MEAD, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; COOK IT. END OF BOOK X THE LAST OF THE BOOKS OF APICIUS _CELII APITII HALIEUS LIBER DECIMUS & ULTIMUS. EXPLICIT_ [Tac.] {Illustration: CANTHARUS, WINE BOWL OR CUP With elaborate ornamentation: Over a sacred fountain the walls of a theatre, with emblems of a theatrical nature and garlands of flowers and fruits, wine skins, tyrsus, torches, masks and musical instruments. Hildesheim Treasure.} {Illustration: OPENING CHAPTER, BOOK I, VENICE, 1503 From the Lancilotus edition, printed by Tacuinus in Venice in 1503. Identical with the two previous editions except for very minor variants. The rubrication is not completed here. Fine initials were painted in the vacant spaces by hand; the small letter in the center of the square being the cue for the rubricator. This practice, a remnant from the manuscript books, was very soon abandoned after the printing of books became commercialized.} {Transcription: Laseratum Oxyporum Oxygarum digestibile Oenogarum in tubera Hypotrima Mortaria ¶ Ciminatum in ostrea de conchiliis. Apicii Celii epimeles Incipit liber primus conditum paradoxum. Conditi Paradoxi compositio: mellis partes. xv. in æneum uas mittuntur in præmissis inde sextariis duobus ut in cocturam mellis uinum decoques. quod igni lento: & aridis lignis calefactum comotum ferula dum coquitur. Si efferuere c{oe}perit uini rore compescitur preter quod subtracto igni in se redit. cum perfrixerit rursus accenditur Hoc secundo ac tertio fiet ac tum demum remotum a foco postridie despumatur cum piperis unciis iiii. iam triti masticis scrupulo. iii. folii & croci dragmæ singulæ. dactilorum ossibus torridis quinque hisdem dactilis uino mollitis intercedente prius suffusione uini de suo modo ac numero: ut tritura lenis habeatur: his omnibus paratis supermittes uini lenis sextaria. xviii. carbones perfecto addere duo milia. ¶ Conditum meliromum. Ulatorum conditum meliromum perpetuum quod subministratur per uiam peregrinanti. pp tritum cum melle despumato in cupellam mittis conditi loco. & ad mouendum quantum sit bibendum tantum aut mellis proferas: aut uinum inferas: sed suaserit non nihil uini meliromo mittas adiiciendum propter exitum solutiorem. ¶ Absynthium romanum. Absynthium romanum sic facies. Conditi camerini præceptis utique pro absynthio cessante: in cuius uicem absynthi ponthici purgati terembitique unciam thebaicam dabis. masticis folii. iii. scrupulos senos. croci scrupulos. iii. uini eiusmodi sextarios. xviii. carbones amaritudo non exigit.} THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS {Illustration: BREVIS PIMENTORUM Manuscript of the 8th Century. From the Codex Salmasianus, Excerpts from Apicius by Vinidarius.} {Transcription: BREVIS PIMENTORUM QUÆ IN DOMO ESSE DEBEANT UT CONDIMENTIS NIHIL DESIT; crocum, piper, zingiber, lasar, folium, baca murræ, costum, cariofilum, spica indica, addena, cardamomum, spica nardi. De seminibus hoc. dapaber, semen rudæ, baca rutæ, baca lauri, semen aneti, semen api, semen feniculi, semen ligustici, semen erucæ, semen coriandri, cuminum anesum, petro silenum, careum, sisama Apici excerpta. a Vinidario vir intut De siccis hoc lasaris radices, menta, nepeta, saluia, cuppressum, oricanum, zyniperum, cepa gentima, bacas timmi, coriandrum, piretrum, citri fastinaca, cepa ascalonia, radices iunci, anet puleium, ciperum alium, ospera, samsucum, innula, silpium, cardamomum. De liquoribus hoc. mel, defritum, carinum, apiperium, passum. De nucleis hoc. nuces maiores nuclos pineos ac midula aballana. De pomis siccis hoc. damascena, datilos, uva, passa, granata. hæc omnia in loco sicco pone ne odorem et virtutem perdant. Brevis cyborum. caccabina minore. ii. caccabina fusile. iii. ofellas garatas. iiii. ofellas assas. v. aliter ofellas. vi. ofellas graton. vii. pisces, scorpiones} {Illustration: CACCABUS Stewpot, marmite, or kettle. With a ring base. The cover fits over the mouth. Ntl. Mus., Naples, 74813; Field M., 24172.} THE EXCERPTS FROM APICIUS BY VINIDARIUS THE ILLUSTRIOUS MAN _Apici Excerpta A Vinidario Viro Inlustri_ FIFTH CENTURY Vinidarius, a Goth, of noble birth or a scientist, living in Italy. Vinithaharjis is the native name. Of his time and life very little is known. It appears that he was a student of Apicius and that he made certain excerpts from that book which are preserved in the uncial codex of Salmasius, sæc. VIII, Paris, lat. 10318. Vollmer in his Apicius commentary says that Salmasius and his predecessors have accepted them as genuine. Schuch incorporated these recipes in the Apicius text of his editions, in appropriate places, as he thought. This course cannot be recommended, although the recipes should form an integral part of any Apicius edition. M. Ihm, who faithfully reprinted the excerpta in the Archiv f. lat. Lex. XV, 64, ff. says distinctly: "These excerpts have nothing to do with the ten books of Apicius, even if some recipes resemble each other ..." and other researchers have expressed the same opinion. Vollmer, however, does not share this view. If I may be permitted to concur with Vollmer, I would say that the excerpts are quite Apician in character, and that in a sense they fill certain gaps in the Apicius text, although the language is strongly vulgarized which may be readily expected to be the case in the age of Vinidarius. The recipes of Anthimus, written around A.D. 511 also confirm the close relation existing between Vinidarius and Apicius. Anthimus was the Greek physician to Theodoric I, (The Great), Frankish king living in Italy. He was not acquainted with Apicius. SUMMARY OF SPICES _BREVIS PIMENTORUM_ [1] WHICH SHOULD BE IN THE HOUSE ON HAND SO THAT THERE MAY BE NOTHING WANTING [in the line of condiments]: SAFFRON, PEPPER, GINGER, LASER, LEAVES [laurel-bay-nard], MYRTLE BERRIES, COSTMARY, CHERVIL [2], INDIAN SPIKENARD, ADDENA [3], CARDAMOM, SPIKENARD. [1] _Pigmentorum_--_specierum_--spices. The old _pigmentum_ is really any coloring matter; the word, corrupted to pimento and pimiento is now used for sweet red pepper and also for allspice. [2] _Cariofilu_--_cærefolium_--_Chærephyllon_; Fr. _Cerfeuille_; Ger. _Kerbel_. This should be among the herbs. [3] Not identified. OF SEEDS [to be on hand] _DE SEMINIBUS HOC_ POPPY SEED, RUE SEED, RUE BERRIES, LAUREL BERRIES, ANISE SEED, CELERY SEED, FENNEL SEED, LOVAGE SEED, ROCKET SEED, CORIANDER SEED, CUMIN, DILL, PARSLEY SEED, CARRAWAY SEED, SESAM. OF DRIED [herbs, etc., to be on hand] _DE SICCIS HOC_ LASER ROOT, MINT, CATNIP, SAGE, CYPRESS, ORIGANY, JUNIPER, SHALLOTS, BACAS TIMMI [1], CORIANDER, SPANISH CAMOMILE, CITRON, PARSNIPS, ASCALONIAN SHALLOTS, BULL RUSH ROOTS, DILL, FLEABANE, CYPRIAN RUSH, GARLIC, LEGUMES [2], MARJORAM [3], INNULA [4] SILPHIUM, CARDAMOM. [1] Not identified. Perhaps the seed of thyme, though the word _bacas_ would be out of place there. [2] _Ospera_, i.e., _Osperios_. [3] _Samsucu_, i.e., _sampsuchum_ Elderberries? [4] Not identified; perhaps _laurus innubus_, dried virgin laurel leaves. OF LIQUIDS [to be on hand] _DE LIQUORIBUS HOC_ HONEY, REDUCED MUST, REDUCED WINE, APIPERIU [1] RAISIN WINE. [1] Not identified. We take it to be honey mead, or some other honey preparation, maybe, _piperatum_, pepper sauce. OF NUTS [to be on hand] _DE NUCLEIS HOC_ LARGER NUTS, PINE NUTS, ALMONDS [1] HAZELNUTS [filberts] [2]. [1] _Acmidula_, i.e., _amygdala_. [2] _Aballana_--_abellana_--_abellinæ_--_avellana_; Fr. _avelline_. OF DRIED FRUITS [to be on hand] _DE POMIS SICCIS HOC_ DAMASCUS PRUNES, DATES, RAISINS, POMEGRANATES. ALL OF THESE THINGS STORE IN A DRY PLACE SO THAT THEY MAY LOSE NEITHER FLAVOR NOR [other] VIRTUES. SUMMARY OF DISHES [1] _BREUIS CYBORV_ [1] I. CASSEROLE OF VEGETABLES AND CHICKEN _CACCABINA MINORE_ II. STUFFED CHARTREUSE _CACCABINA FUSILE_ III. BRAISED CUTLETS _OFELLAS GARATAS_ IV. ROAST MEAT BALLS _OFELLAS ASSAS_ V. GLAZED CUTLETS _ALITER OFELLAS_ VI. MEAT BALLS WITH LASER _OFELLAS GRATON_ VII. SEA SCORPION WITH TURNIPS _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATAS_ VIII. ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_ IX. FRIED FISH _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_ X. ROAST [Grilled] FISH _PISCES ASSOS_ XI. FRIED FISH AND WINE SAUCE _PISCES INOTOGONON_ XII. SARDINES, BABY TUNNY, WHITING _SARDAS_ XIII. FISH STEWED IN WINE _ITEM PISCES INOTOGONON_ XIV. STEWED MULLET WITH DILL _MULLOS ANETATOS_ XV. MULLET, DIFFERENT STYLE _ALITER MULLOS_ XVI. MURENA AND EEL _MURENAS ET ANGUILLAS_ XVII. SPINY LOBSTER AND SQUILL _LUCUSTAS ET ISQUILLAS_ XVIII. BOILED FISH _PISCES ELIXOS_ XIX. A DISH OF SOLE AND EGGS _PATINAS OBORUM_ XX. SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE _PORCELLO CORIANDRATU_ XXI. SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE _PORCELLO IN OCCUCTU_ XXII. PORK, PAN GRAVY _PORCELLO EO IURE_ XXIII. PORK SPRINKLED WITH THYME _PORCELLO TYMMO CRAPSU_ XXIV. PICKLED PORK _PORCELLU EXOZOME_ XXV. LASER [sauce for] PORK _PORCELLU LASARATU_ XXVI. SAUCE FOR PORK _PORCELLU IUSCELLU_ XXVII. PLAIN LAMB _AGNU SIMPLICE_ XXVIII. KID AND LASER _HEDU LASARATU_ XXIX. THRUSH, HEALTH STYLE _TURDOS APONTOMENUS_ XXX. TURTLEDOVES _TURTURES_ XXXI. SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE _IUS IN PERDICES_ [1] _Brevis cyboru_ could be nicely and appropriately rendered with "Menu,"--something minute, short,--but this list is not a menu in our modern sense. It is an enumeration of recipe names, a summary of dishes contained in the excerpts. There is considerable variation in the spelling of the names here and in the following. Syllables ending with "u" are invariably abbreviations of "um." I [468] A CASSEROLE [1] OF VEGETABLE AND CHICKEN _CACCABINAM MINOREM_ ARRANGE DIFFERENT KINDS OF COOKED VEGETABLES IN A CASSEROLE WITH [cooked] CHICKEN INTERSPERSED, IF YOU LIKE; SEASON WITH BROTH AND OIL, SET TO BOIL. NEXT CRUSH A LITTLE PEPPER AND LEAVES, AND MIX AN EGG IN WITH THE DRESSING [add this to the vegetables] PRESS [into the casserole, eliminating the juice] [2]. [1] The dish resembles a chartreuse. [2] Juice should be extracted before the addition of the egg, if the dish is to be unmoulded. Ia [469] THE SAME, WITH ANOTHER DRESSING, A CABBAGE _CHARTREUSE_ _ALIAS: TRITURA UNDE PERFUNDES CACCABINAM_ CRUSH WHATEVER QUANTITY OF LEAVES IS REQUIRED WITH CHERVIL AND ONE AND A QUARTER PART OF LAUREL BERRIES, A MEDIUM-SIZED BOILED CABBAGE, CORIANDER LEAVES, DISSOLVE WITH ITS OWN JUICE, STEAM IN THE HOT ASHES, BUT FIRST PLACE IN A MOULD [when stiff unmould on a platter] DECORATE, POUR UNDER A WELL-SEASONED SAUCE, AND SO SERVE [1]. [1] Either the vegetables and chicken of {Rx} No. 468 are combined with this dressing or a purée of the above cabbage, etc., is made, which will make this an integral dish. The instructions are vague enough to leave room for this choice; but there can be no doubt but what we have here a formula for a vegetable purée or a pudding, a genuine "Chartreuse," such as were prepared in the fancy moulds so popular in old Rome. The "Chartreuse," then, is not original with the vegetarian monks of the monastery by that name, the Carthusians. II [470] A STUFFED CHARTREUSE _CACCABINAM _[1]_ FUSILEM_ [Take cooked] MALLOWS, LEEKS, BEETS, OR COOKED CABBAGE SPROUTS [shoots or tender strunks] THRUSHES [roast] AND QUENELLES OF CHICKEN, TIDBITS OF PORK OR SQUAB CHICKEN AND OTHER SIMILAR SHREDS OF FINE MEATS THAT MAY BE AVAILABLE; ARRANGE EVERYTHING ALTERNATELY IN LAYERS [in a mould or in a casserole]. CRUSH PEPPER AND LOVAGE WITH 2 PARTS OF OLD WINE, 1 PART BROTH, 1 PART HONEY AND A LITTLE OIL. TASTE IT; AND WHEN WELL MIXED AND IN DUE PROPORTIONS PUT IN A SAUCE PAN AND ALLOW TO HEAT MODERATELY; WHEN BOILING ADD A PINT OF MILK IN WHICH [about eight] EGGS HAVE BEEN DISSOLVED; [next] POUR [this spiced custard] OVER [the layers of vegetables and meats, heat slowly without allowing to boil] AND WHEN CONGEALED SERVE [either in the casserole, or carefully unmould the dish on a service platter] [2]. [1] It is interesting to note how the generic terms, _salacaccabia_ and _caccabina_ have degenerated here. In these formulas the terms have lost all resemblance to the former meaning, the original "salt meat boiled in a pot." Such changes are very often observed in the terminology of our modern kitchens, in every language. They make the definition of terms and the classification of subjects extremely difficult. They add much to the confusion among cooks and guests in public dining places and create misunderstandings that only an expert can explain. [2] This dish affords an opportunity for a decorative scheme by the arrangement of the various vegetables and meats in a pleasing and artistic manner, utilizing the various colors and shapes of the bits of food as one would use pieces of stone in a mosaic. Of course, such a design can be appreciated only if the chartreuse is served unmoulded, i.e. if the cook succeeds in unmoulding it without damaging the structure. III [471] BRAISED CUTLETS _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1] PLACE THE MEAT IN A STEW PAN, ADD ONE POUND [2] OF BROTH, A LIKE QUANTITY OF OIL, A TRIFLE OF HONEY, AND THUS BRAISE [3]. [1] Derived from _garum_ or _{oe}nogarum_, the wine sauce. These are supposed to be meat balls or cutlets prepared with garum, but the _garum_ is not mentioned in the formula. This also illustrates the interesting etymology of the word. It is not recognized in every-day ancient language because it is a typical technical term, the much complained-of _lingua culinaria_. We find, therefore, that--at least in this instance--_garum_ no longer stands for a sauce made from the fish, _garus_, but that _garum_ has become a generic term for certain kinds of sauces. Danneil renders _garatus_ with _lasaratus_, which is clearly out of place. [2] In this instance, and in several others, and also according to Sueton. Cæs. fluids were weighed. What idea could be more practical, useful and more "modern" than this? Sheer commercial greed, stubbornness, indolence have thus far made futile all efforts towards more progressive methods in handling food stuffs, particularly in the weighing of them and in selling them by their weight. Present market methods are very chaotic, and are kept purposely so to the detriment of the buyer. [3] The original: _et sic frigis_.--_Frigo_ is equivalent to frying, drying, parching; the word here has taken on a broader meaning, because the "frying" process is clearly out of question here. It appears that the terminology of _frigo_ and that of _asso_ in the next formula, has not been clearly defined. As a matter of fact, not many modern cooks today are able to give a clear definition of such terms as frying, broiling, roasting, braising, baking, which are thus subject to various interpretations. IV [472] ROAST MEAT BALLS _OFELLAS ASSAS_ MEATBALLS [previously sauté], CAREFULLY PREPARED, ARRANGE IN A SHALLOW STEW PAN AND BRAISE THEM IN WINE SAUCE; AFTERWARDS SERVE THEM IN THE SAME SAUCE OR GRAVY, SPRINKLED WITH PEPPER. V [473] GLAZED CUTLETS _ALITER OFELLAS_ THE MEAT PIECES ARE BRAISED [1] IN BROTH AND ARE GLAZED [2] WITH HOT HONEY [3] AND THUS SERVED. [1] Cf. note 3 to Excerpta III. [2] _unguantur._ [3] Dann. oil; G.-V. _melle_--_honey_. It is quite common to use honey for glazing foods. Today we sprinkle meats (ham) with sugar, exposing it to the open heat to melt it; the sugar thus forms a glaze or crust. VI [474] MEAT BALLS WITH LASER _OFELLAS GARATAS_ [1] LASER, GINGER, CARDAMOM, AND A DASH OF BROTH; CRUSH THIS ALL, MIX WELL, AND COOK THE MEAT BALL THEREIN [2]. [1] Cf. Summary of Dishes, and note 1 to Excerpta III. [2] Dann. adds cumin, due perhaps to the faulty reading of the sentence, _misces cum his omnibus tritis_, etc. VII [475] SEA-SCORPION WITH TURNIPS _PISCES SCORPIONES RAPULATOS_ [1] COOK [the fish] IN BROTH AND OIL, RETIRE WHEN HALF DONE: SOAK BOILED TURNIPS, CHOP VERY FINE AND SQUEEZE THEM IN YOUR HANDS SO THAT THEY HAVE NO MORE MOISTURE IN THEM; THEN COMBINE THEM WITH THE FISH AND LET THEM SIMMER WITH PLENTY OF OIL: AND WHILE THIS COOKS, CRUSH CUMIN, HALF OF THAT AMOUNT OF LAUREL BERRIES, AND, BECAUSE OF THE COLOR, ADD SAFFRON; BIND WITH RICE FLOUR TO GIVE IT THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY. ADD A DASH OF VINEGAR AND SERVE. [1] _rapa_, _rapum_: white turnip, rape; "turniped." VIII [476] [Sauce for] ANY KIND OF FISH, FRIED MAKE THUS: _PISCES FRIXOS CUIUSCUMQUE GENERIS_ CRUSH PEPPER, CORIANDER SEED, LASER ROOT, ORIGANY, RUE, FIGDATES, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, OIL, BROTH, ADDING REDUCED MUST, ALL THIS PREPARE AND MIX CAREFULLY, PLACE IN SMALL CASSEROLE TO HEAT. WHEN THOROUGHLY HEATED, POUR OVER THE FRIED FISH, SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. IX [477] [Sauce for] SAME FRIED FISH MAKE THUS: _ITEM PISCES FRIXOS_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE [1], LAUREL BERRIES, CORIANDER, AND MOISTEN WITH HONEY, BROTH [2], WINE, RAISIN WINE, OR REDUCED SPICED WINE; COOK THIS ON A SLOW FIRE, BIND WITH RICE FLOUR AND SERVE. [1] Sch. _ligisticum_. [2] Wanting in Sch. X [478] [Sauce for] ROAST FISH [1] _PISCES ASSOS_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, SATURY, DRY ONIONS, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATES, DILL, YOLKS OF EGG, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL, REDUCED MUST; ALL THIS MIX THOROUGHLY AND UNDERLAY [the fish with it]. [1] The fish was probably broiled on the _craticula_ (see our illustration). The nature of this sauce is not quite clear. If properly handled, it might turn out to be a highly seasoned mayonnaise, or a vinaigrette, depending on the mode of manipulation; either would be suitable for fried or broiled fish. XI [479] FISH AND WINE SAUCE _PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1] FRY THE FISH; CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, RUE, GREEN HERBS, DRY ONIONS, ADD OIL [wine] BROTH AND SERVE. [1] Ihm and G.-V. _{oe}noteganon_; _inotogono_ and in the Summary of Dishes _inotogonon_; Sch. _eleogaro_. Rather an obscure term, owing to the diversity of spelling. We would call it a dish stewed in or prepared with wine, although wine is absent in the present formula. However, it is given in XIII, which bears the same name. Dann. is obviously mistaken in styling this preparation "oil broth." XII [480] [Cold Sauce for] SARDINES MAKE THUS: _SARDAS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE SEED, ORIGANY, DRY ONIONS, HARD BOILED YOLKS, VINEGAR, OIL; THIS MUST BE COMBINED INTO ONE [2] AND UNDERLAID. [1] A kind of small tunny, which, like our herring, used to be pickled or salt, corresponding to the anchovy. A "sardine," from the island of Sardinia; _Sardus_, the inhabitant of Sardinia. [2] The absence of detailed instructions as to the manipulation of the yolks, oil and vinegar is regrettable; upon them depends the certainty or uncertainty of whether the ancients had our modern mayonnaise. XIII [481] FISH STEWED IN WINE _PISCES {OE}NOTEGANON_ [1] RAW FISH ANY KIND YOU PREFER, WASH [prepare, cut into handy size] ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN; ADD OIL, BROTH, VINEGAR, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER, AND COOK: [Meanwhile] CRUSH PEPPER, ORIGANY, LOVAGE WITH THE BUNCHES OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER WHICH YOU HAVE COOKED [with the fish] AND POUR [this preparation] INTO THE SAUCE PAN. [When the fish is done, retire it and arrange the pieces in the serving dish, casserole, bowl or platter] BRING THE RESIDUE IN THE SAUCE PAN TO A BOILING POINT, ALLOW IT TO REDUCE SLOWLY TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY [Strain the sauce of the fish] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] Cf. note to XI. This _{oe}noteganon_ resembles the _Bouillabaisse_, the famous Marseilles fish chowder. In addition to the above manner it is flavored with saffron. An excellent dish, especially with the judicious addition of onions, parsley, a suspicion of garlic and small sippets of toasted bread. XIV [482] MULLET STEWED WITH DILL MAKE THUS: _MULLOS ANETHATOS _[1]_ SIC FACIES_ PREPARE THE FISH [clean, wash, trim, cut into pieces] AND PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADDING OIL, BROTH, WINE, BUNCHES OF LEEKS, [fresh] CORIANDER, [fresh dill]; PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK. [Meanwhile] PUT PEPPER IN THE MORTAR, POUND IT, ADD OIL, AND ONE PART OF VINEGAR AND RAISIN WINE TO TASTE. [This preparation] TRANSFER INTO A SAUCE PAN, PLACE ON THE FIRE TO HEAT, TIE WITH ROUX, ADD TO THE FISH IN THE SAUCE PAN. SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] From _anethus_--dill--which is omitted in formula. Sch. _anecatos_, i.e. _submersos_, because the original fails to state the dill in the formula. Such conjecture is not justified. XV [483] MULLET ANOTHER STYLE _ALITER MULLOS_ SCRAPE, WASH, PLACE [the fish] IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE AND A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND [fresh] CORIANDER TO THE MESS, SET ON THE FIRE TO COOK. CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH SOME OF THE FISH'S OWN LIQUOR [from the sauce pan] ADD RAISIN WINE TO TASTE, PUT IT INTO A POT AND ON THE FIRE TO HEAT; TIE WITH ROUX AND PRESENTLY ADD IT TO THE CONTENTS IN THE SAUCE PAN [1] SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER AND SERVE. [1] It appears that the _patina_ mentioned in this and in the foregoing formula is either a finely wrought metal sauce pan or chafing dish, or a plainer _cumana_, an earthenware casserole; either of which may be used for service at the table. It may be noticed how this manner of preparing fish has a tendency to preserve all the savory flavors and juices of the fish, a process in this respect both rational and economical. XVI [484] MURENA [1], EEL [2] OR MULLET MAKE THUS: _MURENAM AUT ANGUILLAS VEL MULLOS SIC FACIES_ CLEAN THE FISH AND CAREFULLY PLACE IN A SAUCE PAN. IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, ORIGANY, MINT, DRY ONIONS, CRUSH, MOISTEN WITH A SMALL GLASS OF WINE, HALF OF THAT OF BROTH, AND OF HONEY ONE THIRD PART, AND A MODERATE AMOUNT OF REDUCED MUST, SAY A SPOONFUL. IT IS NECESSARY THAT THE FISH BE ENTIRELY COVERED BY THIS LIQUOR SO THAT THERE MAY BE SUFFICIENT JUICE DURING THE COOKING. [1] The ancients considered the murena one of the finest of fish; the best were brought from the straits of Sicily. Rich Romans kept them alive in their fish ponds, often large and elaborate marble basins called, _piscina_, fattened the fish, kept it ready for use. Pollio fattened murenas on human flesh, killing a slave on the slightest provocation and throwing the body into the fish pond; he would eat only the liver of such murenas. This is the only case of such cruelty on record, and it has often been cited and exaggerated. [2] Perhaps the sea-eel, or conger, according to Dann. Also very much esteemed. The witty Plautus names a cook in one of his comedies "Congrio," because the fellow was "slippery." XVII [485] [Dressing for] SPINY LOBSTER (AND SQUILL) _LOCUSTAM (ET SCILLAM)_ [1] CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, POUR IN VINEGAR, BROTH, YOLKS OF [hard boiled] EGGS, MIX WELL TOGETHER [2] AND DRESS [the boiled shellfish meat with it] AND SERVE. [1] Cf. Summary of Dishes. [2] Another of Apicii hasty and laconic formulæ. No indication as to how to use the ingredients named. According to our notion of eating, there is only one way: The shellfish is boiled in aromatic water, allowed to cool off; the meat is then taken out of the shells; the above named ingredients are combined in a manner of a mayonnaise or a vinaigrette, although the necessary oil is not mentioned here. The dressing is poured over the shellfish meat, and the result is a sort of salad or "cocktail" as we have today. XVIII [486] [Sauce] FOR BOILED FISH _IN PISCIBUS ELIXIS_ CRUSH PEPPER, LOVAGE, CELERY SEED, ORIGANY WHICH MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR; ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES [1] IN SUFFICIENT QUANTITY, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, MUSTARD, MIX AND COMBINE PROPERLY AND BRING FORTH. [1] Dann. is undecided as to whether this is dates or date wine; Goll. thinks it is mustard seed, which is not so bad gastronomically; but the original leaves no room for any doubt. XIX [487] A DISH OF SOLE WITH EGGS _PATINA SOLEARUM EX OVIS_ SCALE [skin] CLEAN [the soles], PLACE IN A [shallow] SAUCE PAN, ADD BROTH, OIL [white] WINE, A BUNCH OF LEEKS AND CORIANDER SEED, PLACE ON FIRE TO COOK, GRIND A LITTLE PEPPER, ORIGANY, MOISTEN WITH THE FISH LIQUOR [from the sauce pan]. TAKE 10 RAW EGGS, BEAT THEM AND MIX WITH THE REMAINING LIQUOR; PUT IT ALL BACK OVER THE FISH, AND ON A SLOW FIRE ALLOW TO HEAT [without boiling] AND THICKEN TO THE RIGHT CONSISTENCY; SPRINKLE WITH PEPPER [1]. [1] Very similar to _Sole au vin blanc_. Cf. {Rx} No. 155. XX [488] SUCKLING PIG, CORIANDER SAUCE _PORCELLUM CORIANDRATUM_ ROAST THE PIG CAREFULLY; MAKE THUS A MORTAR MIXTURE: POUND PEPPER, DILL, ORIGANY, GREEN CORIANDER, MOISTEN WITH HONEY, WINE, BROTH, OIL, VINEGAR, REDUCED MUST. ALL OF THIS WHEN HOT POUR OVER [the roast] SPRINKLE RAISINS, PINE NUTS AND CHOPPED ONIONS OVER AND SO SERVE. XXI [489] SUCKLING PIG, WINE SAUCE _PORCELLUM ÆNOCOCTUM_ [1] TAKE THE PIG, GARNISH [with a marinade of herbs, etc.] COOK [roast] IT WITH OIL AND BROTH. WHEN DONE, PUT IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, BROTH, RAISIN WINE OR REDUCED WINE, OLD WINE, CRUSH ALL, MIX AND PREPARE TO A POINT; DRESS THE PIG ON A SHOWY SERVICE [2] PLATTER AND SERVE. [1] i.e. _{oe}nococtum_, cooked or prepared in wine sauce. [2] Dann. is of the opinion that the pig is cooked in a copper vessel, because the instructions are to serve it _in patinam aheneam_. XXII [490] PIG, PAN GRAVY _PORCELLUM EO IURE_ ROAST THE PIG IN ITS OWN JUICE; [when done] RETIRE; BIND THE GRAVY WITH ROUX; [strain] PUT IN A SAUCE BOAT AND SERVE. XXIII [491] PIG SPRINKLED WITH THYME _PORCELLUM THYMO SPARSUM_ MILK-FED PIG, KILLED ON THE PREVIOUS DAY, BOIL WITH SALT AND DILL; TRANSFER IT INTO COLD WATER, CAREFULLY KEEPING IT SUBMERGED, TO PRESERVE ITS WHITENESS. THEREUPON [make a cold dressing of the following] GREEN SAVORY HERBS, [fresh] THYME, A LITTLE FLEABANE, HARD BOILED EGGS, ONIONS, [everything] CHOPPED FINE, SPRINKLE EVERYTHING [over the pig which has been taken out of the water and allowed to drip off] AND SEASON WITH A PINT OF BROTH, ONE MEASURE OF OIL, ONE OF RAISIN WINE, AND SO PRESENT IT [1]. [1] We would first mix the liquid components of this dressing with the chopped ingredients and then spread the finished dressing over the pig. Our author, no doubt, had this very process in mind. XXIV [492] PICKLED SUCKLING PIG _PORCELLUM OXYZOMUM_ [1] GARNISH [prepare and marinate] THE PIG CORRECTLY AND PLACE IT IN A LIQUOR PREPARED AS FOLLOWS: PUT IN THE MORTAR 50 GRAINS OF PEPPER, AS MUCH HONEY [2] AS IS REQUIRED, 3 DRY ONIONS, A LITTLE GREEN OR DRY CORIANDER, A PINT OF BROTH, 1 SEXTARIUS OF OIL, 1 PINT OF WATER; [all this] PUT IN A STEW PAN [braisière] PLACE THE PIG IN IT; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR THE GRAVY QUITE FREQUENTLY [3] SO AS TO THICKEN IT. SHOULD THE BROTH THUS BE REDUCED [by evaporation] ADD ANOTHER PINT OF WATER. IN THIS MANNER COOK [braise] THE PIG TO PERFECTION AND SERVE IT. [1] _exodionum_, and in the Summary of Dishes, _exozome_, i.e. _oxyzomum_. It is curious to note the various spellings and meanings of _oxyzomum_. This is supposed to be a sour sauce or an acid preparation of some kind, yet this recipe does not mention acids. In fact, the presence of honey would make it a sweet preparation. We take it, the "garnish" contains the necessary vinegar or other acids such as lemon juice, wine, etc. _Oxyzomum_ is properly rendered "pickle." [2] Dann. oil, occurring twice in his version. [3] _sæpius_; Dann. confusing _sæpe_ with _cæpa_, renders this "onions sauce." The same occurs to him in XXVII. XXV [493] PIG WITH LASER _PORCELLUM LASARATUM_ IN THE MORTAR POUND PEPPER, LOVAGE, CARRAWAY, A LITTLE CUMIN, LIVE LASER, LASER ROOT, MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD PINE NUTS, FIGDATES, HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, PREPARED MUSTARD, FINISH WITH OIL TO TASTE, AND POUR OVER [the roast pig]. XXVI [494] PIG IN SAUCE _PORCELLUM IUSCELLATUM_ IN THE MORTAR PUT PEPPER, LOVAGE, OR ANISE, CORIANDER, RUE, A LAUREL BERRY, POUND [all], MOISTENING WITH BROTH, [add] LEEKS, RAISIN WINE, OR A LITTLE HONEY, A LITTLE WINE, AND A LIKE AMOUNT OF OIL. WHEN THIS HAS BEEN COOKED TIE WITH ROUX. XXVII [495] PLAIN LAMB [1] _AGNUM SIMPLICEM_ OF THE SKINNED LAMB MAKE SMALL CUTLETS WHICH WASH CAREFULLY AND ARRANGE IN A SAUCE PAN, ADD OIL, BROTH, WINE, LEEKS, CORIANDER CUT WITH THE KNIFE; WHEN IT COMMENCES TO BOIL, STIR VERY FREQUENTLY [2] AND SERVE. [1] Unquestionably the ancient equivalent for "Irish Stew." [2] Cf. note 3 to {Rx} 492, XXIV; the presence of onion, however, would do no harm here. XXVIII [496] KID WITH LASER _HÆDUM LASARATUM_ THE WELL-CLEANED GUTS OF A KID FILL WITH [a preparation of] PEPPER, BROTH, LASER, OIL [1], AND PUT THEM BACK INTO THE CARCASS WHICH SEW TIGHTLY AND THUS COOK [roast] THE KID [whole]. WHEN DONE PUT IN THE MORTAR RUE, LAUREL BERRIES, AND THEN SERVE THE KID WHICH MEANWHILE HAS BEEN RETIRED FROM THE POT WITH ITS OWN DRIPPINGS OR GRAVY. [1] There being only liquids for this filling of the guts, a more solid substance, such as pork forcemeat, eggs, or cereals would be required to make an acceptable filling for the casings of the kid. Furthermore sausage, for such is this in fact, must be thoroughly cooked before it can be used for the filling of the carcass, as not sufficient heat would penetrate the interior during the roasting to cook any raw dressing. XXIX [497] THRUSH "À LA SANTÉ" _TURDOS HAPANTAMYNOS_ [1] CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, LAUREL BERRY, MIX IN CUMIN [2] GARUM AND STUFF THE THRUSH [with this preparation, [3]] THROUGH THE THROAT [4], TYING THEM WITH A STRING. THEREUPON MAKE THIS PREPARATION IN WHICH THEY ARE COOKED: CONSISTING OF OIL, SALT, WATER [5], DILL AND HEADS OF LEEKS. [1] Cf. Summary of Dishes; term not identified, derived from the Greek, meaning to drive away all stomach ills. [2] We use juniper berries today instead of cumin. [3] Cf. note to {Rx} 496, XXVIII. [4] Thrush and other game birds of such small size are not emptied in the usual way: they are cooked with the entrails, or, the intestines are taken out, seasoned, sauté, and are either put back into the carcasses, or are served separately on bread croutons. In this instance, the necessary seasoning is introduced through the throat, a most ingenious idea that can only occur to Apicius. [5] In other instances we have pointed out where a small amount of water was used to clarify the oil used for frying foods. The presence here of water leads us to believe that the thrush were not "cooked," i.e. "boiled" but that they were fried in a generous amount of oil; this would make the ancient process remarkably similar to the present European way of preparing thrush or fieldfare, or similar game birds. For water used to clarify oil see note 3 to {Rx} No. 250. XXX [498] TURTLEDOVES _TURTURES_ OPEN THEM, PREPARE [marinate] CAREFULLY; CRUSH PEPPER, LASER, A LITTLE BROTH, IMMERSE THE DOVES IN THIS PREPARATION SO THAT IT WILL BE ABSORBED BY THEM, AND THUS ROAST THEM. XXXI [499] SAUCE FOR PARTRIDGE [1] _IUS IN PERDICES_ CRUSH IN THE MORTAR PEPPER, CELERY, MINT, AND RUE; MOISTEN WITH VINEGAR, ADD FIGDATE [wine], HONEY, VINEGAR, BROTH, OIL; LET IT BOIL LIKEWISE AND SERVE. [1] This formula evidently is a fragment. END OF THE SUMMARY OF DISHES [of the Excerpts of Vinidarius] _EXPLI [cit] BREUIS CIBORUM_ [END OF THE RECIPES OF APICIUS] {Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LISTER EDITION, AMSTERDAM, 1709 Lister's second edition was printed at Amsterdam, 1709, by very able printers, the Jansson-Wæsbergs. It is a very worthy book in every respect which, as M. Græsse says in Trésor des livres rares et précieux, may be included in the collection of the Variorum.} {Transcription: APICII C{OE}LII DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, Sive ARTE COQUINARIA, LIBRI DECEM. Cum Annotationibus MARTINI LISTER, è Medicis domesticis Serenissimæ Majestatis Reginæ Annæ, ET Notis selectioribus, variisque lectionibus integris, HUMELBERGII, BARTHII, REINESII, A. VAN DER LINDEN, & ALIORUM, ut & _Variarum Lectionum_ Libello. EDITIO SECUNDA. _Longe auctior atque emendatior._ {Decoration} AMSTELODAMI, Apud JANSSONIO-WÆSBERGIOS MDCCIX.} APICIANA {Illustration: DIAGRAM of Apicius Manuscripts and Printed Editions, showing relation to each other and indicating the sources of the present translation.} {Transcription: +=============+ +=========================+ +===============+ |MS | |MS | |MS | |ROME | |The | | | |Vatican Vrbin|-----|ARCHETYPUS FULDENSIS |------|Now in | |lat. 1146 | |* | |NEW YORK CITY | |* | |Formerly in the Monastery| |* | |9th Century | |of Fulda. Probably | |formerly | +=============+ |written prior to the | |CHELTENHAM | | \ \ |9th Century | |Bibl. Phillipps| | \ \ |(now lost) | |275 | | \ \ +=========================+ |9th Century | | \ \ +===============+ | \ \ / | | +---------+ \ \ +====================+ / | | |MS | | | |MS. PARIS lat. 10318| / | | |PARIS | | | |Apici Excerpta a | / | | |lat. 8209| | | |Vinidario v.i. 8th | / | | |15th | | | |Cent. | / | | |century | | | +====================+ / | | +---------+ | \ \ / | | | \ ------\ /--------------- | | | --- \ / \ | | +=================+ \ | \ | | | | | | \ | | | +-----------+ | | | \ | | | |MS | | | | \ | | | |FLORENCE | | | | \ / | | |Laur. 73.20| | | | \ / | | |15th | | | | | / | | |century | | | +---------+ | / +---------+ | +-----------+ | | |MS | | / |The | | | | |MUNICH | | | |HUMELBERG| | +------------+ | | |lat. 756 | | | |EDITION | | |MS | | | |Critinus | | | |Zürich | | |ROME, Vat | | | |1469 A.D.| | | |1542 | | |lat. 1145 | | | +---------+ | | +---------+ | |15th century| | | | | | | +------------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +----------+ | | +------------+ | | | | |MS | | | |EDITIO | | | | | |FLORENCE | | | |PRINCEPS | | | +------------+ | |Laur. | |....|Venice, ca. | | | |The | | |Strozz. 67| | | |1485-1490 | | | |LISTER | | |15th cent | | | |from unknown| | | |EDITIONS | | +----------+ | | |codex | | | |London, 1705| | | | |(Honterus?) | | | |Amsterdam | | | | +------------+ | | |1709 | | | | | | +------------+ | +---------+ | | | | | | | |MS | | | | | | | | |FLORENCE | | | | | | | | |Ricc. 141| | | \ / | | | |15th | | | \ / | | | |century | | | \ / | | | +---------+ | | \ | | | | | / \ | | | | | / \ | | | +---------+ | | +-----------+ / \ / | | |MS | | | |The | / \ / | | |FLORENCE | | | |LANCILOTUS-| / \ / | | |Ricc. 622| |----|SIGNERRE |----------------- \ | | |15th | | | |EDITIONS, | / \/ \ | | |century | | | |Milan |\ / /\ \ | | +---------+ | | |1490 (?) | \ / / \ \ | | | | |1498 | \/ / \ \ | | | | +-----------+ /\ / \ \ | | | | | \ / \ \ | | +----------+ | | | +---------+ | | | | |MS | | | | |The | | | | | |OXFORD | | | | |BERNHOLD | | | | | |Bodl. Can.| | | | |Editions | | | | | |lat. 163 | | | | |1787-1800| | | | | |1490 | | | | +---------+ | | | | +----------+ | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | +-----------+ | | +----------+ | | | |The | | | |The | | +----------+ | | |TORINUS | | | |SCHUCH | | |MS | | | |EDITIONS: | | | |EDITIONS | | |OXFORD | |....|Basel-Lyons| | \ |Heidelberg| | |Bodl. Ad | | | |1541 | | \ |1867-1874 | | |B. 110 | | | |from codex | | \ +----------+ | |15th cent.| | | |found by |------------ \ | | +----------+ | | |Torinus | | \ \ | | | | +-----------+ | \ \ | | | | | \ \ | | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ | | |MS | | | |The | | \ \ | | |CESENA | | | |BASEGGIO| | \ \ | | |151. mun.| |----|Edition,| | \ \ | | |14th | | | |Venice | | \ \ | | |century | | | |1852 |------------------- \ \ | | +---------+ | | +--------+ | \ \ \ | | | | / \ \ \ | | +---------+ | \ +-----------+/ \ +-----------+ | |MS | | \ |The | \|The | | |ROME, Vat| | \|GIARRATANO-|--------------------|VEHLING | | |lat. 6803| | |VOLMER | |TRANSLATION| | |15th | | |Edition | |Chicago | | |century | | |Leipzig | |1926 | | +---------+ | |1922 | +-----------+ | | +-----------+ +=================+} {Illustration: INCIPIT CONDITUM PARADOXUM Opening recipe No. 1, Book 1, Apicius. From the manuscript of the 9th century in the Library of the Vatican at Rome.} APICIANA A Bibliography of Apician Manuscripts and Printed Editions A. MANUSCRIPTS SUMMARY OF MANUSCRIPTS LOCATION NO. OF MS. BOOKS New York, I 1 Rome, II, IV and XVII 3 Paris, III and V 2 Florence, VI, VII, VIII and IX 4 Oxford, X and XI 2 Cesena, XII 1 Munich, XVIII 1 Not accounted for, XIII, XIV, XV, XVI 4 -- Total of manuscript books 18 (Doubtful as to present location, the Codex Humelbergii, cf. XI, Oxford) DESCRIPTION OF MANUSCRIPTS I, 9TH CENTURY New York, Library of the Academy of Medicine, until 1930 in Cheltenham, Gloucester, Biblioth. Phillipps, 275, in the library of Sir Thomas Phillipps, a codex ca. Ninth century, 4to, parchment, 275 pp., originally bound up with Phill. 386, which is said to have come from the Benedictine Abbey of St. Ghislain, founded at the end of the 7th century in the diocese of Cambrai; partly in Continental, but mostly in Anglo-Saxon minuscle of the 9th century, not unlike the Anglo-Saxon minuscle of Fulda. Title missing. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 5-6. The writer who has hastily inspected the manuscript in 1931 is of the opinion that three different hands wrote this book. Part of the index is gone, too. The book commences with lib. VII of the index. Bound in an 18th century French full leather binding. It was brought to America by Dr. Margaret B. Wilson and presented to the library of the A. of M. in 1931. II, 9TH CENTURY Rome, Vatican Library. Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1146, Ninth century. 58 sheets, 2 blanks in the beginning and 2 at the end. Size 23.75 × 18.75 cm., heavy parchment, 20-21 lines to the page, not numbered. Sheet 1 R, illuminated by square panel in purple and gold letters (capit. quadr.) IN{=C}{=P} || API || CÆ ||--Nothing else. Sheet 1 V--3 R the title, EPIM e || LES LI || BER I, and the titles of Book I, illuminated with columns, flowers and birds. Sheet 3 R between the foot of the columns EXPLICIVNT CAPITVLA. Sheet 3 V a panel in purple similar to sheet 1 R with inscription, IN{=C}{=P} || CONDIT{=V} || PARADOX{=V}. Sheet 4 R commences the text with the title, I, Conditum Paradoxum. Captions, marginal figures and initials in red. The captions are written in good uncials throughout, the first text words usually in half uncials, continuing in an even and beautiful minuscle. The Explicits and Incipits invariably in capitalis rustica. Sheet 58 V end of text with EXPLICIT LIBER X. Traube, Vollmer and others believe that this manuscript was written in or in the vicinity of Tours in the 9th century. III, 8TH CENTURY Paris, lat. 10318. 8th century. Codex Salmasianus, pp. 196-203, Apici excerpta a Vinidario vir. inl. (See illustration.) Excerpts from Apicius, 31 formulæ not found in the traditional Apicius and quite different in character. Cf. Notes on Vinidarius, preceding the Excerpta which follow the end of Book X of Apicius. IV, 15TH CENTURY Rome, Vatican Library, Vat. Vrbinas, lat. 1145, parchment, 15th century. 51 sheets, 20 lines to the page, title, Apicius. V, 15TH CENTURY Paris, lat. 8209, paper, 15th century. 131 sheets, 30 lines to the page. VI, 15TH CENTURY Florence, Laur. 73, 20. 15th century. 84 sheets, 26 lines to the page. VII, 15TH CENTURY Florence, Laur. Strozz. 67, 15th century. 50 sheets, 23 lines to the page. Title, Apicius. VIII, 15TH CENTURY Florence, Riccardianus, 141 (L III 29), paper, 179 sheets, irregular number of lines, pp. 123-179, Apicius. 15th century. IX, 1462 Florence, Riccardianus, 662 (M I 26), finished April 4th, 1462, paper, 79 sheets, 26 lines to the page. Pp. 41-79 Apicius, written by Pascutius Sabinus, Bologna, 1462. X, 1490 Oxford, Bodl. Canon, lat. 168 4to min. 78 pp. dated May 28th, 1490. (_In fine_) scriptum per me Petrum Antonium Salandum Reginensem die xxviii Maii MCCCCLXXXX. XI, 15TH CENTURY Oxford, Bodl. Add. B 110, 15th century, Italian, cf. H. Schenkl, Bibl. Britann. I. p. 79 n. 384 and F. Madan, A Summary Catalogue of Western Mss. in the Bodleian Library, Oxford, 1905, p. 660. Vollmer says that this Ms. belonged to a son of Humelbergius, as proven by P. Lehmann. XII, 14TH CENTURY Cesena, bibl. municip., 14th century. XIII A manuscript in the library of the Sforza brothers at Pesaro which burned in 1514, known only from the catalogue. Cf. A. Vernarecci, La Libreria di Gio. Sforza in Archivio storico per le Marche e l'Umbria, III, 1886, 518, 790. XIV A manuscript used by Bonifaz Amerbach and Joh. Sichardus. Cf. P. Lehman, Joh. Sichardus, Quellen und Untersuchungen, IV, 1, p. 204. XV-XVI The two manuscripts mentioned by Albanus Torinus, in his edition of Apicius, Basel, 1541. In 1529 Torinus found an Apicius "codex" on the island of Megalona (Maguellone) which he used for his edition of Apicius. It is almost certain that this was not a very ancient manuscript. The way Torinus speaks of it and of the (first) Venetian printed edition in his _epistola dedicatoria_ leaves even doubt as to whether his authority was handwritten or printed. A first edition, printed ca. 1483, may have well been a dilapidated copy such as Torinus describes in 1529. Torinus admits taking some liberties with the text and failed to understand some phrases of it. Despite this fact, his text, from a culinary point of view seems to be more authentic than the Humelbergius and Lister versions. The other codex according to Torinus, was found in Transsylvania by Io. Honterus of Coronea. This codex may have served as authority for the first edition printed ca. 1483 by Bernardinus, of Venice. No other mention is made of this codex anywhere, which according to Torinus, was sent to Venice from Transsylvania. The text of the Editio Princeps, by the way, is thoroughly unreliable. XVII, 15TH CENTURY Ms. Rome, Vatican Library, lat. 6803, 15th Century. XVIII, 15TH CENTURY Munich, lat. 756. Ex bibl. Petri Victorii 49. 15th century. This codex is particularly valuable and important for the identification of the Apicius text. Cf. Vollmer, Studien, pp. 10 _seq._ B. PRINTED EDITIONS SUMMARY OF PRINTED EDITIONS NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE 1 ca. A.D. 1483(?) Venice, Italy Latin 2 A.D. 1490(?) Milan, Italy (doubtful) Latin 3 A.D. 1498 Milan, Italy Latin 4 A.D. 1503 Venice, Italy Latin 5 A.D. 1541 Basel, Switzerland Latin 6 A.D. 1541 Lyons, France Latin 7 A.D. 1542 Zürich, Switzerland Latin 8 A.D. 1705 London, England Latin 9 A.D. 1709 Amsterdam, Holland Latin 10 A.D. 1787 Marktbreit, Germany Latin 11 A.D. 1791 Lübeck, Germany Latin 12 A.D. 1800 Ansbach, Germany Latin 13 A.D. 1852 Venice, Italy Italian 14 A.D. 1867 Heidelberg, Germany Latin 15 A.D. 1874 Heidelberg, Germany Latin 16 A.D. 1909 Leipzig, Germany German 17 A.D. 1911 Leipzig, Germany German 18 A.D. 1922 Leipzig, Germany Latin 19 A.D. 1933 Paris, France French 20 A.D. 1936 Chicago, U. S. A. English COMMENTARIES ON APICIUS NO. YEAR OF PUBLICATION PLACE OF PUBLICATION LANGUAGE 21 A.D. 1531* Frankfurt, Germany Latin 22 A.D. 1534* Frankfurt, Germany Latin 23 A.D. 1535* Antwerp, Belgium Latin 24 A.D. 1831 Heidelberg, Germany German 25 A.D. 1868 London, England English 26 A.D. 1912 Naples, Italy Italian 27 A.D. 1920 Munich, Germany German 28 A.D. 1921 Rome, Italy Latin-Italian 29 A.D. 1927 Leipzig, Germany German * Excerpts and adaptations have little relation to Apicius. Total of Printed Editions, in Latin 15 Total of Printed Editions, in Italian 1 Total of Printed Editions, in German 2 Total of Printed Editions, in French 1 Total of Printed Editions, in English 1 Total of Commentaries in all Languages 9 Editions and Commentaries published in America 1 Editions and Commentaries published in Belgium 1 Editions and Commentaries published in England 2 Editions and Commentaries published in France 2 Editions and Commentaries published in Germany 13 Editions and Commentaries published in Holland 1 Editions and Commentaries published in Italy 7 Editions and Commentaries published in Switzerland 2 BIBLIOGRAPHERS AND COLLECTORS Albanus Torinus, 1541, describes Mss. XV and XVI. A. Vernarecci describes Mss. XIII. P. Lehmann describes Mss. XI and XIV. F. Vollmer describes Mss. I-XVIII. Dr. Margaret B. Wilson describes Ms. I. Georges Vicaire describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 14, 15. Theodor Drexel (Georg) describes editions Nos. 1, 5, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 15. Elizabeth R. Pennell describes editions Nos. 1, 3, 9. Bernhold describes editions Nos. 2, 10, 11, 12. Fabricius describes edition No. 2. Baron Pichon describes editions Nos. 3, 21. In the author's collection are editions Nos. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29. DESCRIPTION OF PRINTED EDITIONS These summaries and descriptions of the known manuscript books and printed editions of Apicius are presented with a desire to afford the students a survey of the field treated in this volume, to illustrate the interest that has existed throughout the past centuries in our ancient book. Copies of any Apicius edition and commentaries are scarce; famous collectors pride themselves in owning one or several of them. Of the well-known collections of cookery books the most outstanding perhaps is that of Theodor Drexel, of Frankfurt on the Main, who owned nine different editions of Apicius. The Drexel catalogue forms the basis of a bibliography--Verzeichnis der Litteratur über Speise und Trank bis zum Jahre 1887, bearbeitet von Carl Georg, Hannover, 1888, describing some 1700 works. The Drexel collection, combined with that of Dr. Freund, is now in the Staatsbibliothek in Berlin and is undoubtedly the finest collection of its kind. Another famous collection of cookery books is described in My Cookery Books, by Elizabeth Robins Pennell, Boston, 1903, listing three of the Apicii. The Pennell collection was destroyed by a flood in London while being stored away in a warehouse during the world war. The most important bibliography, well-known to bibliophiles, is the Bibliographie gastronomique par Georges Vicaire, Paris, 1890. Vicaire mentions eleven Apicius editions. The Baron Pichon and the Georges Vicaire collections are both dispersed. Despite ardent efforts over a period of many years the writer has been unable to secure either an Apicius manuscript or the editions No. 1 and 2. The existence of No. 2 on our list is doubtful. Therefore, we do not pretend having inspected or read each and every edition described herein, but by combining the efforts of the authorities here cited we have gathered the following titles and descriptions in order to present a complete survey of the Apician literature. NO. 1 CA. A.D. 1483, VENICE APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM || SUETONIUS TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS GR{=A}MATICIS. || SUETONIUS TR{=A}QUILLUS DE CLARIS RHETORIBUS || COQUINARIÆ CAPITA GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT || EPIMELES, (_Etc. In fine_) IMPRESSUM VENETIIS PER BERNARDINUM VENETUM. No date, but attributed to ca. 1483-6. Given as the earliest edition by most authorities. 4to, old vellum, 30 sheets, the pages not numbered. Georg-Drexel, No. 13; Pennell, p. 111; Vicaire, col. 29. NO. 2, MILAN, A.D. 1490 APICIUS CULINARIS (_sic_) (CURA BLASII LANCILOTI _In fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILIERUM DE SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM. ANNO DOMINI M CCCC LXXXX DIE VIII MENSIS JANUARII. Large 8vo. Edition disputed by bibliographers. Ex Bernhold, _præfatio_, p. IX, who (we are translating from his Latin text) says, "Here is the exterior of the book as extant in the Nuremberg library, most accurately and neatly described by the very famous and most worthy physician of that illustrious republic, Dr. Preus, a friend of mine for thirty years; whose integrity, of course, is above reproach; these are his own words--The book is made in the size called large octavo. It must be mentioned that the sheets are indeed large, so that the size might be styled an ordinary quarto. Fabricius, in his Bibliotheca, the newest edition, quotes a copy under this name. The entire book consists of five parts [sheets, folded into eight leaves--sixteen printed pages--stitched together] and two leaves. These five parts contain the text proper; these two sheets preceding them, are occupied by the title page, the dedication and a kind of poetic address. The text itself commences with p. 5, I should say, though there is no regular pagination. However, there are nevertheless in the lower ends of the leaves, called the limp parts, some conspicuous letters on the first four leaves of the sheets, while the remaining four leaves though belonging to the respective parts, are blank. For instance aI., aII., aIII., aIIII. Then follows the next sheet or part, signed, bI., II., III., IIII. in the same manner, with the four following leaves blank. And thus in the same manner follows sheet c, d, e. The two leaves preceding the five parts which comprise the text proper, contain the title of the book, Apicius Culinaris [_sic_] nowhere, to be sure, appears a note of the place or the date where and when the book was made, and on this whole first page, aside from the words already noted, there is nothing else in evidence than the picture of an angel, in the center of which there is the sign, IHS, and around the circle the following words are read, 'Joannes de Lagniano M.' At the feet of the angel spaces may be seen that are inscribed with the letters, I.O.L. The next page, or the verso of the title page, exhibits the dedication of Blasius Lancilotus, extending to the upper part of the third page. On this very same page occurs the poem by Ludovicus Vopiscus, addressed to Joannes Antonius Riscius, comprising five very beautiful distichs. The remaining part of the third page is finished off with the word, 'Finis,' while the fourth page is entirely blank. The text of Apicius commences with the fifth, as mentioned above, and from now on the leaves are numbered by letters, as previously described. At the end of the text, on the last page of the book, a poem is conspicuous, entitled, 'Antonius Mota to the Public,' consisting of four neat distichs, followed by another composition, containing five distichs by Joannes Salandus. And conclusion of the entire work is made with these words, 'Printed at Milan by Master Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis, in the year of the Lord 1490, on the 8th day of the month of January.' "From this edition, the oldest as well as the rarest--with no other known earlier edition--all the variants given herewith have been collected by Goezius." Thus far Bernhold. The existence of this edition is doubted by Brunet, according to Vicaire. This ancient description corresponds substantially to that of Vicaire of the following edition of 1498 which Vicaire proclaims to be the first dated Apicius edition. It is interesting to note, however, what Bernhold has to say of this 1498 edition. "Without a doubt a repetition of the preceding edition," says he; and he goes on quoting the Bibliotheca Latina Fabricio-Ernestina (Jo. Alberti Fabricii Bibliothec. Latin. edit ab Ernesti 1708) to the effect that two editions were printed at Milan, one of 1490 by Blasius Lancilotus and one of 1498 by Guiliermus de Signerre Rothomagensis. Our inquiry at the Municipal library of Nürnberg has revealed the fact that this copy of 1490 is no longer in the possession of the library there. NO. 3, A.D. 1498, MILAN APICIUS CULINARIUS (_in fine_) IMPRESSUM MEDIOLANI PER MAGISTRUM GUILERUM SIGNERRE ROTHOMAGENSEM, ANNO DNI MCCCCLXXXXVIII, DIE XX, MENSIS IANUARII. (Ex Pennell, p. 111) First dated edition, 4to, 40 sheets, pages not numbered. {Illustration: COLOPHON, MILAN EDITION, 1498 From the Lancilotus edition of Apicius, printed by Signerre, Milan, 1498, the first dated edition. The poems by Mota and Salandus are identical with the colophon of the 1503 Venice edition. Note the date of this colophon and observe how easily it can be read for "the 8th day of January, 1490" which date is attributed to our Apiciana No. 2. This edition, as is noted, is doubtful, although several bibliographers speak about it.} {Transcription: Antonius mota Ad vulgus. Plaudite sartores: cætari: plaudite ventres Plaudite mystili tecta per vncta coqui Pila sit albanis quæcunq; ornata lagænis Pingue suum copo limen obesus amet Occupat insubres altissimus ille nepotum Gurges & vndantes auget & vrget aquas Millia sex ventri qui fixit Apicius alto Inde timens: sumpsit dira venena: famem. Ioannes salandus lectori. Accipe quisquis amas irritamenta palati: Precepta: & leges: oxigarumq; nouum: Condiderat caput: & stygias penitrauerat vndas Celius: in lucem nec rediturus erat: Nunc teritur dextra versatus Apicius omni Vrbem habet: & tectum qui perigrinus erat: Acceptum motte nostro debebis: & ipsi Immortalis erit gratia: laus & honor: Per quem non licuit celebri caruisse nepote: Per quem dehinc fugiet lingua latina situm. Impressum Mediolani per magistrum Guilermum Signerre Rothomagensem Anno d{=n}i. Mcccclxxxx viii.die.xx.mensis Ianuarii.} This copy has on the fly leaf the book plate of "Georgius Klotz, M.D. Francofurti ad M{oe}num" and the autograph of John S. Blackie, 1862. Bernhold, p. XI. Not in Georg-Drexel. Vicaire, 28; he reads Appicius [_sic_] Culinarius. Pennell and Vicaire read Guilerum, Bernhold Guilierum. Vicaire's description of this edition tallies with that of Bernhold's and his collaborator's account of the preceding edition. There are certain copies of this edition, bearing the following titles, Apicius de re coquinaria and Apicivs in re qvoqvinaria. Cf. Vicaire, 28-29. NOTES TO NOS. 1, 2, AND 3 GESAMTKATALOG DER WIEGENDRUCKE, Leipzig, 1926, II, p. 510, places as the first printed edition Apicius in re quoquinaria [_sic_] printed by William de Signerre at Milan, on the 20th day of January, 1498. The second place is given APICIUS DE RE COQUINARIA printed by Bernardinus de Vitalibus at Venice, no date, circa 1500 (our No. 1). This classification follows that of Brunet in 1840. Neither the Gesamtkatalog nor Brunet make any mention whatsoever of the doubtful 1490 Milan edition (our No. 2). Vicaire, col. 33, mentioning this edition citing Bernhold, quotes Brunet as doubting the existence of this 1490 edition, but we fail to notice this expression of doubt since our Brunet is altogether silent on the subject, same as the other bibliographers. Vicaire, col. 28-29, quotes Brunet as saying that the undated Apicius (our No. 1) despite its sub-titles of Suetonius, contains only the Apicius text, a statement confirmed by Pennell. A search of all the available works of Joh. Alb. Fabricius--Bibliotheca Latina [Classics], Hamburg, 1722, Bibliographia Antiquaria, ib. 1760 and the Bibliotheca Latina mediæ et infimæ [middle ages], ib. 1735, has failed to reveal a trace of the 1490 Apicius, displayed by Bernhold, as described by Fabricius and as seen by Preus in the Nürnberg Municipal Library. Our facsimile of the 1498 colophon shows how easily its date can be mistaken for "the 8th day of January, 1490," Bernhold's very date! Evidently an error of this kind made victims of Preus, Bernhold and Fabricius (if, indeed, he quoted it) and caused us some ardent searching among dusty tomes. We have therefore come to the conclusion that either this 1490 edition disappeared between the year 1787 and our time or else that it never existed. NO. 4, A.D. 1503, VENICE APITII CELII DE RE COQUINARIA LIBRI DECEM. || COQUINARIÆ CAPITA GRÆCA AB APITIO POSITA HÆC SUNT. || EPIMELES: ARTOPTUS: CEPURICA: PANDECTER: OSPRION || TROPHETES: POLYTELES: TETRAPUS: THALASSA: HALIEUS || HANC PLATO ADULATRICEM MEDICINÆ APPELLAT || [_in fine_] IMPRESSUM UENETIIS P IOHANNEM DE CERETO DE TRIDINO ALIAS TACUINUM. M.CCCCC.III. DIE TERTIO MENSIS AUGUSTI. 4to, 32 sheets, 30 lines to the page, pages not numbered, signed a-h, by 4. {Illustration: TITLE PAGE, VENICE EDITION, 1503 From the Blasius Lancilotus edition, printed by Johannes de Cereto de Tridino alias Tacuinus, Venice, 1503. This is the second dated edition of Apicius, resembling very closely the undated edition and also the Milan edition, printed by Signerre 1498, the first to bear a date. Same size as the original. This is a first timid attempt at giving a book a title page. Most books printed before this date have no title pages.} {Transcription: Apitii Celii de re Coquinaria libri decem. Coquinariæ capita Græca ab Apitio posita hæc sunt. Epimeles: Artoptus: Cepurica: Pandecter: Osprion Trophetes: Polyteles: Tetrapus: Thalassa: Halieus. Hanc Plato adulatricem medicinæ appellat.} On the last page of our copy are the two poems mentioned in the 1490 Milan edition (No. 2) "Antonius mota ad uulgus" (4 distichs) and "Iohannes salandi Lectori" (5 distichs). The verso of this page is blank. The dedication, on the verso of title page, is likewise by Blasius Lancilotus. It appears that this edition is closely related to No. 2. Vicaire, 30; unknown to Georg-Drexel and Pennell. In the collection of the author. NO. 5, A.D. 1541, BASEL CÆLII APITII || SVMMI ADVLATRICIS MEDI || CINÆ ARTIFICIS DE RE CVLINARIA LIBRI X. RE || CENS È TENEBRIS ERUTI & À MENDIS UINDICATI, || TYPISQUE SVMMA DILIGENTIA || EXCUSI. || PRÆTEREA, || P. PLATINÆ CREMO || NENSIS VIRI UNDECVNQVE DO || CTISSIMI, DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA RERUM, & POPINÆ || SCIENTIA LIBRI X. AD IMITATIONEM C. API || TII AD UNGUEM FACTI. || AD HÆC, || PAVLI ÆGINETÆ DE || FACVLTATIBUS ALIMENTORVM TRA || CTATVS, ALBANO TORINO || INTERPRETE. || CUM INDICE COPIOSISSIMO. || BASILEÆ || M.D.XLI. [_in fine_] BASILEÆ, MENSE MARTIO, ANNO M D X L I. 4to, old calf, 16 pp., containing title, dedication and index, not numbered but signed in Greek letters. The body of the work commences with p. 1, finishing with p. 366, the sheets are signed first in small Roman letters a-z and numbers 1-3 and then in capital letters A-Z, likewise numbered 1-3. The titles of the books or chapters, on verso of the title page, under the heading of "Katalogos et Epigraphè Decem Voluminum De Re Popinali C. Apitii" are both in Greek and Roman characters. German names and quotations are in Gothic type (black letter). The book is well printed, in the style of the Froschauer or Oporinus press, but bears no printer's name or device. The Apicius treatise is concluded on p. 110, and is followed by "Appendicvla De Conditvris Variis ex Ioanne Damasceno, Albano Torino Paraphraste," not mentioned on the title. This treatise extends from p. 110 to p. 117, comprising fourteen recipes for "condimenta" and "conditvræ"; these are followed on the same page by "De Facvltatibvs Alimentorvm Ex Pavlo Ægineta, Albano Torino Interprete" which book is concluded on p. 139; but with hardly any interruption nor with any very conspicuous title on this page there follows the work of Platina: "P. [_sic_] Platinæ Cremonensis, viri vndecvnqve doctissimi, De tuenda ualetudine Natura rerum, & Popinæ scientia, ad amplissimum D.D.B. Rouerellam S. Clementis presbyterum, Cardinalem, Liber I." The ten books of Platina are concluded on p. 366; the type gracefully tapering down with the words: "P. [_sic_] Platinæ libri decimi et vltimi Finis" and the date, as mentioned. The last page blank. {Illustration: TITLE PAGE, LYONS, 1541 This edition, printed in Lyons, France, in 1541, by Sebastian Gryphius is said to have been pirated from the Torinus edition given at Basel in the same year. Early printers stole copiously from one another, frequently reproduced books with hundreds of illustrations with startling speed. Gryphius corrected Torinus' spelling of "P" [Bartholomæus] Platina, but note the spelling of "Lvg[v]dvni" (Lyons). Inscription by a contemporary reader over the griffin: "This [book] amuses me! Why make fun of me?"} {Transcription: CÆLII APITII, SVMMI ADVLATRICUS MEDICINÆ ARTIFICIS, De re Culinaria libri Decem. {Handwriting} B. PLATINÆ CREMONENSIS _De Tuenda ualetudine, Natura rerum, & Popinæ scientia Libri x._ PAVLI ÆGINETÆ DE FACULTATIBUS _alimentorum Tractatus, Albano Torino Interprete_. {Handwriting} {Decoration} APVD SEB. GRYPHIVM LVGVDVNI, 1541.} Strange enough, there is another edition of this work, bearing the same editor's name, printed at Lyons, France, in the same year. This edition, printed by Gryphius, bears the abbreviated title as follows: NO. 6, A.D. 1541, LYONS CÆLII || APITII SVM || MI ADVLATRICIS || MEDICINÆ ARTIFICIS, || DE RE CULINARIA LIBRI || DECEM || B. PLATINÆ CREMONEN || SIS DE TUENDA UALETUDINE, NATURA RERUM & POPINÆ || SCIENTIA LIBRI X, || PAULI ÆGINETÆ DE FACULTATIBUS ALIMENTORUM TRACTATUS, || ALBANO TORINO INTER || PRETE. The lower center of the title page is occupied by the Gryphius printer's device, a griffin standing on a box-like pedestal, supported by a winged globe. On the left of the device: "virtute duci," on the right: "comite fortuna"; directly underneath: "Apvd Seb. Gryphivm, Lvgvdvni [_sic_], 1541." Sm. 8vo. Pages numbered, commencing with verso of title from 2-314. Sheets lettered same as Basel edition; on verso of title "Katalogos" etc. exactly like Basel. Page 3 commences with the same epistola dedicatoria. This dedication and the entire corpus of the book is printed in an awkward Italic type, except the captions which are in 6 pt. and 8 pt. Roman. The book is quite an unpleasant contrast with the fine Antiqua type and the generous margins of the Basel edition. Some woodcut initials but of small interest. The index, contrary to Basel, is in the back. The last page shows another printer's device, differing from that on the title, another griffin. This edition, though bearing Platina's correct initial, B., has the fictitious title given to his work by Torinus, who probably possessed one of the earliest editions of Platina's De honesta Voluptate, printed without a title page. Altogether, this Lyons edition looks very much like a hurried job, and we would not be surprised to learn that it was pirated from the Basel edition. The epistola dedicatoria, in which Torinus expresses fear of pirates and asks his patron's protection, is concluded with the date, Basileæ, v. Idus Martias, Anno M. D. XLI., while the copy described by Vicaire appears to be without this date. Vicaire also says that the sheets of his copy are not numbered. He also reads on the title "Lvgdvni, 1541" which is spelled correctly, but not in accordance with the original. Of these two editions Vicaire says: "Ces deux éditions portent la même date de 1541, mais celle qui a été publiée à Bâle a paru avant celle donnée à Lyon par Seb. Gryphe. Cette dernière, en effet, contient la dédicace datée." The title page of our copy is inscribed by three different old hands, one the characteristic remark: "Mulcens me, gannis?" This copy is bound in the original vellum. Vicaire, 31, G.-Drexel, No. 12. The work of Torinus has been subjected to a searching analysis, as will be shown throughout the book. An appreciation of Platina will be found in Platina, mæstro nell'arte culinaria Un'interessante studio di Joseph D. Vehling, by Agostino Cavalcabò, Cremona, 1935. {Illustration: TITLE PAGE, HUMELBERGIUS EDITION, ZÜRICH, 1542 The Gabriel Humelbergius edition is printed by Froschauer, one of the great printers of the Renaissance. Showing the autograph of Johannes Baptista Bassus. The best of the early Apicius editions.} {Transcription: IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA APICII CÆLII DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, SIVE ARTE COQVINARIA LIBRI X. ITEM, Gabrielis Humelbergij Medici, Physici Isnensis in Apicij Cælij libros X. Annotationes. TIGVRI IN OFFICINA Froschouiana. Anno, M. D. XLII. {Handwriting} {Signature: Johannes Baptista Bassus.}} NO. 7, A.D. 1542, ZÜRICH IN HOC OPERE CONTENTA. || APICII CÆLII || DE OPSONIIS ET CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE ARTE COQVINA || RIA, LIBRI X. || ITEM, || GABRIELIS HUMELBERGIJ MEDICI, PHYSICI || ISNENSIS IN APICIJ CÆLIJ LIBROS X. || ANNOTATIONES. || TIGVRI IN OFFICINA || FROSCHOUIANA. ANNO, || M.D. XLII. 4to, 123 sheets, pagination commences with title, not numbered. On verso of title a poem by Ioachim Egell, extolling Humelberg. Sheet 2 the dedication, dated "Isnæ Algoiæ, mense Maio, Anno à Christo nato, M.D.XLII." Sheet 3-4 have the preface; on verso of 4 the names of the books of Apicius. On recto of sheet 5 the chapters of Book I; on verso commences the corpus of the work with Apicii Cælii Epimeles Liber I. The Apicius text is printed in bold Roman, the copious notes by the editor in elegant Italics follow each book. Very instructive notes, fine margins, splendid printing. Altogether preferable to Torinus. Our copy is bound in the original vellum. Inscribed in old hand by Johannes Baptista Bassus on the title. G.-Drexel, No. 14; Vicaire, 31; not in Pennell. NO. 8, A.D. 1705, LONDON APICII C{OE}LII || DE || OPSONIIS || ET || CONDIMENTIS, || SIVE || ARTE COQUINARIA, || LIBRI DECEM. || CUM ANNOTATIONIBUS MARTINI LISTER, || È MEDICIS DOMESTICIS SERENISSIMÆ MA || JESTATIS REGINÆ ANNÆ || ET || NOTIS SELECTIORIBUS, VARIISQUE LECTIONIBUS INTEGRIS, || HUMELBERGII, CASPARI BARTHII, || & VARIORUM. || LONDINI: || TYPIS GULIELMI BOWYER. MDCCV. The first edition by Lister, limited to 120 copies. 8vo. The title in red and black. Original full calf, gilt. Pp. XIV +