The Natural History of Pliny, Volume 1 (of 6) by the Elder Pliny
INTRODUCTION.
18197 words | Chapter 31
Thus far have I treated of the position and the wonders of the earth,
of the waters, the stars, and the proportion of the universe and its
dimensions. I shall now proceed to describe its individual parts;
although indeed we may with reason look upon the task as of an infinite
nature, and one not to be rashly commenced upon without incurring
censure. And yet, on the other hand, there is nothing which ought less
to require an apology, if it is only considered how far from surprising
it is that a mere mortal cannot be acquainted with everything. I shall
therefore not follow any single author, but shall employ, in relation
to each subject, such writers as I shall look upon as most worthy of
credit. For, indeed, it is the characteristic of nearly all of them,
that they display the greatest care and accuracy in the description of
the countries in which they respectively flourished; so that by doing
this, I shall neither have to blame nor contradict any one.
The names of the different places will here be simply given, and as
briefly as possible; the account of their celebrity, and the events
which have given rise thereto, being deferred to a more appropriate
occasion; for it must be remembered that I am here speaking of the
earth as a whole, and I wish to be understood as using the names
without any reference whatever to their celebrity, and as though the
places themselves were in their infancy, and had not as yet acquired
any fame through great events. The name is mentioned, it is true, but
only as forming a part of the world and the system of the universe.
The whole globe is divided into three parts, Europe, Asia, and Africa.
Our description commences where the sun sets and at the Straits of
Gades[798], where the Atlantic ocean, bursting in, is poured forth
into the inland seas. As it makes its entrance from that side, Africa
is on the right hand and Europe on the left; Asia lies between
them[799]; the boundaries being the rivers Tanais[800] and Nile. The
Straits of the ocean, of which I have just spoken, extend fifteen
miles in length and five[801] in breadth, measured from the village
of Mellaria[802] in Spain to the Album Promontorium[803] or White
Promontory in Africa, as we learn from Turranius Gracilis, who was born
in that vicinity. Titus Livius and Cornelius Nepos however have stated
the breadth, where it is least, to be seven miles, and where greatest,
ten; from so small a mouth as this does so immense an expanse of water
open upon us! Nor is our astonishment diminished by the fact of its
being of great depth; for, instead of that, there are numerous breakers
and shoals, white with foam, to strike the mariner with alarm. From
this circumstance it is, that many have called this spot the threshold
of The Inland Sea.
At the narrowest part of the Straits, there are mountains placed to
form barriers to the entrance on either side, Abyla[804] in Africa,
and Calpe[805] in Europe, the boundaries formerly of the labours of
Hercules[806]. Hence it is that the inhabitants have called them the
Columns of that god; they also believe that they were dug through by
him; upon which the sea, which was before excluded, gained admission,
and so changed the face of nature.
CHAP. 1. (1.)—THE BOUNDARIES AND GULFS OF EUROPE FIRST SET FORTH IN A
GENERAL WAY.
I shall first then speak of Europe, the foster-mother of that people
which has conquered all other nations, and itself by far the most
beauteous portion of the earth. Indeed, many persons have, not without
reason[807], considered it, not as a third part only of the earth,
but as equal to all the rest, looking upon the whole of our globe as
divided into two parts only, by a line drawn from the river Tanais
to the Straits of Gades. The ocean, after pouring the waters of the
Atlantic through the inlet which I have here described, and, in its
eager progress, overwhelming all the lands which have had to dread its
approach, skirts with its winding course the shores of those parts
which offer a more effectual resistance, hollowing out the coast of
Europe especially into numerous bays, among which there are four Gulfs
that are more particularly remarkable. The first of these begins at
Calpe, which I have previously mentioned, the most distant mountain of
Spain; and bends, describing an immense curve, as far as Locri and the
Promontory of Bruttium[808].
CHAP. 2.—OF SPAIN GENERALLY.
The first land situate upon this Gulf is that which is called the
Farther Spain or Bætica[809]; next to which, beginning at the frontier
town of Urgi[810], is the Nearer, or Tarraconensian[811] Spain,
extending as far as the chain of the Pyrenees. The Farther Spain is
divided lengthwise into two provinces, Lusitania[812] and Bætica, the
former stretching along the northern side of the latter, and being
divided from it by the river Ana[813].
The source of this river is in the district of Laminium[814], in the
Nearer Spain. It first spreads out into a number of small lakes,
and then again contracts itself into a narrow channel, or entirely
disappears under ground[815], and after frequently disappearing and
again coming to light, finally discharges itself into the Atlantic
Ocean. Tarraconensian Spain lies on one side, contiguous to the
Pyrenees, running downwards along the sides of that chain, and,
stretching across from the Iberian Sea to the Gallic ocean[816],
is separated from Bætica and Lusitania by Mount Solorius[817], the
chains of the Oretani[818] and the Carpetani[819], and that of the
Astures[820].
CHAP. 3.—OF BÆTICA.
Bætica, so called from the river which divides it in the middle, excels
all the other provinces in the richness of its cultivation and the
peculiar fertility and beauty of its vegetation.
It consists of four jurisdictions, those of Gades[821], of
Corduba[822], of Astigi[823], and of Hispalis[824]. The total number of
its towns is 175; of these nine are colonies[825], and eight municipal
towns[826]; twenty-nine have been long since presented with the old
Latin rights[827]; six are free towns[828], three federate[829], and
120 tributary.
In this district, the things that more especially deserve notice, or
are more easily explained in the Latin tongue, are the following,
beginning at the river Ana, along the line of the sea-shore; the town
of Onoba, surnamed Æstuaria[830]; the rivers Luxia and Urium[831],
flowing through this territory between the Ana and the Bætis; the
Marian[832] Mountains; the river Bætis; the coast of Corum[833], with
its winding bay; opposite to which is Gades, of which we shall have
occasion to speak among the islands[834]. Next comes the Promontory
of Juno[835], and the port of Bæsippo[836]; the towns of Bœlo[837]
and Mellaria[838], at which latter begin the Straits of the Atlantic;
Carteia[839], called by the Greeks Tartessos[840]; and the mountain of
Calpe.
Along the coast of the inland sea[841] is the town of Barbesula[842]
with its river; also Salduba[843]; the town of Suel[844]; and then
Malaca[845], with its river, one of the federate towns. Next to this
comes Mænoba[846], with its river; then Sexifirmum[847], surnamed
Julium; Selambina[848]; Abdera[849]; and Murci[850], which is at the
boundary of Bætica. M. Agrippa supposed that all this coast was peopled
by colonists of Punic origin. Beyond the Anas, and facing the Atlantic,
is the country of the Bastuli[851] and the Turditani. M. Varro informs
us, that the Iberians, the Persians, the Phœnicians, the Celts, and the
Carthaginians spread themselves over the whole of Spain; that the name
“Lusitania” is derived from the games (_lusus_) of Father Bacchus, or
the fury (_lyssa_[852]) of his frantic attendants, and that Pan[853]
was the governor of the whole of it. But the traditions respecting
Hercules[854] and Pyrene, as well as Saturn, I conceive to be fabulous
in the highest degree.
The Bætis does not rise, as some writers have asserted, near the town
of Mentisa[855], in the province of Tarraco, but in the Tugiensian
Forest[856]; and near it rises the river Tader[857], which waters the
territory of Carthage[858]. At Ilorcum[859] it turns away from the
Funeral Pile[860] of Scipio; then taking a sweep to the left, it falls
into the Atlantic Ocean, giving its name to this province: at its
source it is but small, though during its course it receives many other
streams, which it deprives as well of their waters as their renown. It
first enters Bætica in Ossigitania[861], and glides gently, with a
smooth current, past many towns situate on either side of its banks.
Between this river and the sea-shore the most celebrated places
inland are Segida[862], also surnamed Augurina; Julia[863], called
Fidentia; Urgao[864] or Alba, Ebora[865] or Cerealis, Iliberri[866] or
Liberini, Ilipula[867] or Laus, Artigi[868] or Julienses, Vesci[869]
or Faventia, Singili[870], Attegua[871], Arialdunum, Agla Minor[872],
Bæbro[873], Castra Vinaria[874], Cisimbrium[875], Hippo Nova or New
Hippo[876], Ilurco[877], Osca[878], Escua[879], Sucubo[880], Nuditanum,
Old Tuati[881]; all which towns are in that part of Bastitania which
extends towards the sea, but in the jurisdiction[882] of Corduba. In
the neighbourhood of the river itself is Ossigi[883], also surnamed
Laconicum, Iliturgi[884] or Forum Julium, Ipasturgi[885] or Triumphale,
Setia, and, fourteen miles inland, Obulco[886], which is also called
Pontificense.
Next to these comes Epora[887], a federate town, Sacili[888]
Martialium, and Onoba[889]. On the right bank is Corduba, a Roman
colony, surnamed Patricia[890]; here the Bætis first becomes navigable.
There are also the towns of Carbula and Detunda[891], and the river
Singulis[892], which falls into the Bætis on the same side.
The towns in the jurisdiction of Hispalis are the following: Celti,
Arua[893], Canama[894], Evia, Ilipa[895], surnamed Illa, and
Italica[896]. On the left of the river is the colony of Hispalis[897]
named Romuliensis, and, on the opposite side[898], the town of
Osset[899], surnamed Julia Constantia, Vergentum, or Julî Genius[900],
Orippo, Caura[901], Siarum, and the river Menoba[902], which enters the
Bætis on its right bank. Between the æstuaries of the Bætis lie the
towns of Nebrissa[903], surnamed Veneria, and of Colobona[904]. The
colonies are, Asta[905], which is also called Regia, and, more inland,
that of Asido[906], surnamed Cæsariana.
The river Singulis, discharging itself into the Bætis at the place
already mentioned, washes the colony of Astigi[907], surnamed Augusta
Firma, at which place it becomes navigable. The other colonies in this
jurisdiction which are exempt from tribute are Tucci, surnamed Augusta
Gemella[908], Itucci called Virtus Julia[909], Attubi or Claritas
Julia[910], Urso[911] or Genua Urbanorum; and among them in former
times Munda[912], which was taken with the son of Pompey. The free
towns are Old Astigi[913] and Ostippo[914]; the tributary towns are
Callet, Callecula, Castra Gemina, the Lesser Ilipula, Merucra, Sacrana,
Obulcula[915], and Oningis. As you move away from the sea-coast, near
where the river Menoba is navigable, you find, at no great distance,
the Alontigiceli and the Alostigi[916].
The country which extends from the Bætis to the river Anas, beyond the
districts already described, is called Bæturia, and is divided into two
parts and the same number of nations; the Celtici[917], who border upon
Lusitania, in the jurisdiction of Hispalis, and the Turduli, who dwell
on the verge[918] of Lusitania and Tarraconensis, and are under the
protection of the laws of Corduba. It is evident that the Celtici have
sprung from the Celtiberi, and have come from Lusitania, from their
religious rites, their language, and the names of their towns, which
in Bætica are distinguished by the following epithets[919], which have
been given to them. Seria has received the surname of Fama Julia[920],
Nertobriga that of Concordia Julia[921], Segida that of Restituta
Julia[922], and Contributa[923] that of Julia. What is now Curiga
was formerly Ucultuniacum, Constantia Julia[924] was Laconimurgis,
the present Fortunales were the Tereses[925], and the Emanici were
the Callenses[926]. Besides these, there are in Celtica the towns of
Acinippo[927], Arunda[928], Aruci[929], Turobriga, Lastigi, Salpesa,
Sæpone, and Serippo.
The other Bæturia, which we have mentioned, is inhabited by the
Turduli, and, in the jurisdiction of Corduba, has some towns which are
by no means inconsiderable; Arsa[930], Mellaria[931], Mirobriga[932],
and Sisapo[933], in the district of Osintias.
To the jurisdiction of Gades belongs Regina, with Roman citizens; and
Læpia, Ulia[934], Carisa[935] surnamed Aurelia, Urgia[936] or Castrum
Julium, likewise called Cæsaris Salutariensis, all of which enjoy the
Latian rights. The tributary towns are Besaro, Belippo[937], Barbesula,
Lacippo, Bæsippo, Callet, Cappacum, Oleastro, Ituci, Brana, Lacibi,
Saguntia[938], and Audorisæ.
M. Agrippa has also stated the whole length of this province to be
475 miles[939], and its breadth 257; but this was at a time when its
boundaries extended to Carthage[940], a circumstance which has often
caused great errors in calculations; which are generally the result
either of changes effected in the limits of provinces, or of the fact
that in the reckoning of distances the length of the miles has been
arbitrarily increased or diminished. In some parts too the sea has been
long making encroachments upon the land, and in others again the shores
have advanced; while the course of rivers in this place has become more
serpentine, in that more direct. And then, besides, some writers begin
their measurements at one place, and some at another, and so proceed
in different directions; and hence the result is, that no two accounts
agree.
(2.) At the present day the length of Bætica, from the town of
Castulo[941], on its frontier, to Gades is 250 miles, and from Murci,
which lies on the sea-coast, twenty-five miles more. The breadth,
measured from the coast of Carteia, is 234 miles. Who is there that
can entertain the belief that Agrippa, a man of such extraordinary
diligence, and one who bestowed so much care on his subject, when he
proposed to place before the eyes of the world a survey of that world,
could be guilty of such a mistake as this, and that too when seconded
by the late emperor the divine Augustus? For it was that emperor who
completed the Portico[942] which had been begun by his sister, and
in which the survey was to be kept, in conformity with the plan and
descriptions of M. Agrippa.
CHAP. 4. (3.)—OF NEARER SPAIN.
The ancient form of the Nearer Spain, like that of many other
provinces, is somewhat changed, since the time when Pompey the Great,
upon the trophies which he erected in the Pyrenees, testified that 877
towns, from the Alps to the borders of the Farther Spain, had been
reduced to subjection by him. The whole province is now divided into
seven jurisdictions, those of Carthage[943], of Tarraco, of Cæsar
Augusta[944], of Clunia[945], of Asturica[946], of Lucus[947], and of
the Bracari[948]. To these are to be added the islands, which will be
described on another occasion, as also 293 states which are dependent
on others; besides which the province contains 179 towns. Of these,
twelve are colonies, thirteen, towns with the rights of Roman citizens,
eighteen with the old Latian rights, one confederate, and 135 tributary.
The first people that we come to on the coast are the Bastuli; after
whom, proceeding according to the order which I shall follow, as we
go inland, there are the Mentesani, the Oretani, and the Carpetani
on the Tagus, and next to them the Vaccæi, the Vectones, and the
Celtiberian Arevaci. The towns nearest to the coast are Urci, and
Barea[949] included in Bætica, the district of Mavitania, next to it
Deitania, and then Contestania, and the colony of Carthago Nova; from
the Promontory of which, known as the Promontorium Saturni[950], to
the city of Cæsarea[951] in Mauritania, the passage is a distance of
187 miles. The remaining objects worthy of mention on the coast are
the river Tader[952], and the free colony of Ilici[953], whence the
Ilicitanian Gulf[954] derives its name; to this colony the Icositani
are subordinate.
We next have Lucentum[955], holding Latian rights; Dianium[956], a
tributary town; the river Sucro[957], and in former times a town of the
same name, forming the frontier of Contestania. Next is the district
of Edetania, with the delightful expanse of a lake[958] before it, and
extending backward to Celtiberia. Valentia[959], a colony, is situate
three miles from the sea, after which comes the river Turium[960],
and Saguntum[961] at the same distance, a town of Roman citizens
famous for its fidelity, the river Uduba[962], and the district of the
Ilergaones[963]. The Iberus[964], a river enriched by its commerce,
takes its rise in the country of the Cantabri, not far from the town
of Juliobriga[965], and flows a distance of 450 miles; 260 of which,
from the town of Varia[966] namely, it is available for the purposes of
navigation. From this river the name of Iberia has been given by the
Greeks to the whole of Spain.
Next comes the district of Cossetania, the river Subi[967], and the
colony of Tarraco, which was built by the Scipios as Carthage[968] was
by the Carthaginians. Then the district of the Ilergetes, the town
of Subur[969], and the river Rubricatum[970], beyond which begin the
Laletani and the Indigetes[971]. Behind these, in the order in which
they will be mentioned, going back from the foot of the Pyrenees,
are the Ausetani[972], the Lacetani[973], and along the Pyrenees, the
Cerretani[974], next to whom are the Vascones[975]. On the coast is the
colony of Barcino[976], surnamed Faventia; Bætulo[977] and Iluro[978],
towns with Roman citizens; the river Larnum[979], Blandæ[980], the
river Alba[981]; Emporiæ[982], a city consisting of two parts, one
peopled by the original inhabitants, the other by the Greek descendants
of the Phocæans; and the river Ticher[983]. From this to the Venus
Pyrenæa[984], on the other side of the Promontory, is a distance of
forty miles.
I shall now proceed to give an account of the more remarkable things
in these several jurisdictions, in addition to those which have been
already mentioned. Forty-three different peoples are subject to the
jurisdiction of the courts of Tarraco: of these the most famous
are—holding the rights of Roman citizens, the Dertusani[985] and the
Bisgargitani; enjoying Latian rights, the Ausetani, and the Cerretani,
both Julian and Augustan, the Edetani[986], the Gerundenses[987],
the Gessorienses[988], and the Teari[989], also called Julienses.
Among the tributaries are the Aquicaldenses[990], the Onenses, and the
Bæculonenses[991].
Cæsar Augusta, a free colony, watered by the river Iberus, on the
site of the town formerly called Salduba, is situate in the district
of Edetania, and is the resort of fifty-five nations. Of these there
are, with the rights of Roman citizens, the Bellitani[992], the
Celsenses[993], a former colony, the Calagurritani[994], surnamed the
Nassici, the Ilerdenses[995], of the nation of the Surdaones, near whom
is the river Sicoris, the Oscenses[996] in the district of Vescitania,
and the Turiasonenses[997]. Of those enjoying the rights of the ancient
Latins, there are the Cascantenses[998], the Ergavicenses[999], the
Graccuritani[1000], the Leonicenses[1001], and the Osicerdenses; of
federate states, there are the Tarragenses[1002]; and of tributaries,
the Arcobrigenses[1003], the Andologenses[1004], the Aracelitani[1005],
the Bursaonenses[1006], the Calagurritani[1007], who are also surnamed
the Fibularenses, the Complutenses[1008], the Carenses[1009],
the Cincenses[1010], the Cortonenses, the Damanitani[1011], the
Larnenses[1012], the Lursenses[1013], the Lumberitani[1014], the
Lacetani, the Lubienses, the Pompelonenses[1015], and the Segienses.
Sixty-five different nations resort to Carthage[1016], besides the
inhabitants of the islands. Of the Accitanian[1017] colony, there
are the Gemellenses, and the town of Libisosona[1018], surnamed
Foroaugustana, to both of which have been granted Italian[1019] rights.
Of the colony of Salaria[1020], there are the people of the following
towns, enjoying the rights of ancient Latium: the Castulonenses, also
called the Cæsari Venales, the Sætabitani[1021] or Augustani, and
the Valerienses[1022]. The best known among the tributaries are the
Alabanenses[1023], the Bastitani[1024], the Consaburrenses[1025],
the Dianenses[1026], the Egelestani[1027], the Ilorcitani[1028],
the Laminitani, the Mentesani[1029], both those called Oritani and
those called Bastuli, and the Oretani who are surnamed Germani[1030],
the people of Segobriga[1031] the capital of Celtiberia, those of
Toletum[1032] the capital of Carpetania, situate on the river Tagus,
and after them the Viatienses and the Virgilienses[1033].
To the jurisdiction of Clunia[1034] the Varduli contribute fourteen
nations, of whom we need only particularize the Albanenses[1035],
the Turmodigi[1036], consisting of four tribes, among which are
the Segisamonenses[1037] and the Segisamaiulienses. To the same
jurisdiction belong the Carietes[1038] and the Vennenses with five
states, among which are the Velienses. Thither too resort the
Pelendones of the Celtiberians, in four different nations, among
whom the Numantini[1039] were especially famous. Also, among the
eighteen states of the Vaccæi, there are the Intercatienses[1040],
the Pallantini[1041], the Lacobrigenses, and the Caucenses[1042]. But
among the seven peoples belonging to the Cantabri, Juliobriga[1043]
is the only place worthy of mention; and of the ten states of the
Autrigones, Tritium and Virovesca[1044]. The river Areva[1045] gives
its name to the Arevaci; of whom there are six towns, Segontia[1046]
and Uxama[1047], names which are frequently given to other places, as
also Segovia[1048] and Nova Augusta, Termes[1049], and Clunia itself,
the frontier of Celtiberia. The remaining portion turns off towards
the ocean, being occupied by the Varduli, already mentioned, and the
Cantabri.
Next upon these touch the twenty-two nations of the Astures, who
are divided into the Augustani[1050] and the Transmontani, with the
magnificent city of Asturica. Among these we have the Cigurri[1051],
the Pæsici, the Lancienses[1052], and the Zoëlæ[1053]. The total number
of the free population amounts to 240,000 persons.
The jurisdiction of Lucus[1054] embraces, besides the Celtici and the
Lebuni, sixteen different nations, but little known and with barbarous
names. The number however of the free population amounts to nearly
166,000.
In a similar manner the twenty-four states of the jurisdiction of
the Bracari contain a population of 175,000, among whom, besides the
Bracari[1055] themselves, we may mention, without wearying the reader,
the Bibali, the Cœlerni, the Gallæci, the Hequæsi, the Limici, and the
Querquerni.
The length of the Nearer Spain, from the Pyrenees to the frontier
of Castulo, is 607[1056] miles, and a little more if we follow the
line of the coast; while its breadth, from Tarraco to the shore of
Olarson[1057], is 307[1058] miles. From the foot of the Pyrenees, where
it is wedged in by the near approach of the two seas, it gradually
expands until it touches the Farther Spain, and thereby acquires a
width more than double[1059].
Nearly the whole of Spain abounds in mines[1060] of lead, iron,
copper, silver, and gold; in the Nearer Spain there is also found lapis
specularis[1061]; in Bætica there is cinnabar. There are also quarries
of marble. The Emperor Vespasianus Augustus, while still harassed by
the storms that agitated the Roman state, conferred the Latian rights
on the whole of Spain. The Pyrenean mountains divide Spain from Gaul,
their extremities projecting into the two seas on either side.
CHAP. 5. (4.)—OF THE PROVINCE OF GALLIA NARBONENSIS.
That part of the Gallias which is washed by the inland sea[1062] is
called the province of [Gallia] Narbonensis[1063], having formerly
borne the name of Braccata[1064]. It is divided from Italy by the river
Varus[1065], and by the range of the Alps, the great safeguards of the
Roman Empire. From the remainder of Gaul, on the north, it is separated
by the mountains Cebenna[1066] and Jura[1067]. In the cultivation of
the soil, the manners and civilization of the inhabitants, and the
extent of its wealth, it is surpassed by none of the provinces, and, in
short, might be more truthfully described as a part of Italy than as a
province. On the coast we have the district of the Sordones[1068], and
more inland that of the Consuarani[1069]. The rivers are the Tecum
and the Vernodubrum[1070]. The towns are Illiberis[1071], the scanty
remains of what was formerly a great city, and Ruscino[1072], a town
with Latian rights. We then come to the river Atax[1073], which flows
from the Pyrenees, and passes through the Rubrensian Lake[1074], the
town of Narbo Martius, a colony of the tenth legion, twelve miles
distant from the sea, and the rivers Arauris[1075] and Liria[1076].
The towns are otherwise but few in number, in consequence of the
numerous lakes[1077] which skirt the sea-shore. We have Agatha[1078],
formerly belonging to the Massilians, and the district of the Volcæ
Tectosages[1079]; and there is the spot where Rhoda[1080], a Rhodian
colony, formerly stood, from which the river takes its name of
Rhodanus[1081]; a stream by far the most fertilizing of any in either
of the Gallias. Descending from the Alps and rushing through lake
Lemanus[1082], it carries along with it the sluggish Arar[1083], as
well as the torrents of the Isara and the Druentia[1084], no less rapid
than itself. Its two smaller mouths are called Libica[1085], one being
the Spanish, and the other the Metapinian mouth; the third and largest
is called the Massiliotic[1086]. There are some authors who state that
there was formerly a town called Heraclea[1087] at the mouth of the
Rhodanus or Rhone.
Beyond this are the Canals[1088] leading out of the Rhone, a famous
work of Caius Marius, and still distinguished by his name; the Lake of
Mastramela[1089], the town of Maritima[1090] of the Avatici, and, above
this, the Stony Plains[1091], memorable for the battles of Hercules;
the district of the Anatilii[1092], and more inland, that of the
Desuviates[1093] and the Cavari. Again, close upon the sea, there is
that of the Tricorii[1094], and inland, there are the Tricolli[1095],
the Vocontii[1096], and the Segovellauni, and, after them, the
Allobroges[1097].
On the coast is Massilia, a colony of Phocæan[1098] Greeks, and a
federate[1099] city; we then have the Promontory of Zao[1100], the
port of Citharista[1101], and the district of the Camatullici[1102];
then the Suelteri[1103], and above them the Verrucini[1104]. Again,
on the coast, we find Athenopolis[1105], belonging to the Massilians,
Forum Julii[1106] Octavanorum, a colony, which is also called Pacensis
and Classica, the river Argenteus[1107], which flows through it, the
district of the Oxubii[1108] and that of the Ligauni[1109]; above whom
are the Suetri[1110], the Quariates[1111] and the Adunicates[1112].
On the coast we have Antipolis[1113], a town with Latian rights, the
district of the Deciates, and the river Varus, which proceeds from
Mount Cema, one of the Alps.
The colonies in the interior are Arelate Sextanorum[1114], Beterræ
Septimanorum[1115], and Arausio[1116] Secundanorum; Valentia[1117]
in the territory of the Cavari, and Vienna[1118] in that of the
Allobroges. The towns that enjoy Latian rights are Aquæ Sextiæ[1119] in
the territory of the Saluvii, Avenio[1120] in that of the Cavari, Apta
Julia[1121] in that of the Volgientes, Alebece[1122] in that of the
Reii Apollinares, Alba[1123] in that of the Helvi, and Augusta[1124]
in that of the Tricastini, Anatilia, Aeria[1125], the Bormanni[1126],
the Comaci, Cabellio[1127], Carcasum[1128] in the territory of
the Volcæ Tectosages, Cessero[1129], Carpentoracte[1130] in the
territory of the Memini, the Cenicenses[1131], the Cambolectri[1132],
surnamed the Atlantici, Forum[1133] Voconi, Glanum Livi[1134], the
Lutevani[1135], also called the Foroneronienses[1136], Nemausum[1137]
in the territory of the Arecomici, Piscenæ[1138], the Ruteni[1139],
the Sanagenses[1140], the Tolosani[1141] in the territory of the
Tectosages on the confines of Aquitania, the Tasconi[1142], the
Tarusconienses[1143], the Umbranici[1144], Vasio[1145] and Lucus
Augusti[1146], the two capitals of the federate state of the Vocontii.
There are also nineteen towns of less note, as well as twenty-four
belonging to the people of Nemausum. To this list[1147] the Emperor
Galba added two tribes dwelling among the Alps, the Avantici[1148] and
the Bodiontici, to whom belongs the town of Dinia[1149]. According to
Agrippa the length of the province of Gallia Narbonensis is 370 miles,
and its breadth 248[1150].
CHAP. 6. (5.)—OF ITALY.
Next comes Italy, and we begin with the Ligures[1151], after whom
we have Etruria, Umbria, Latium, where the mouths of the Tiber are
situate, and Rome, the Capital of the world, sixteen miles distant from
the sea. We then come to the coasts of the Volsci and of Campania, and
the districts of Picenum, of Lucania, and of Bruttium, where Italy
extends the farthest in a southerly direction, and projects into the
[two] seas with the chain of the Alps[1152], which there forms pretty
nearly the shape of a crescent. Leaving Bruttium we come to the coast
of [Magna] Græcia, then the Salentini, the Pediculi, the Apuli, the
Peligni, the Frentani, the Marrucini, the Vestini, the Sabini, the
Picentes, the Galli, the Umbri, the Tusci, the Veneti, the Carni, the
Iapydes, the Histri, and the Liburni.
I am by no means unaware that I might be justly accused of ingratitude
and indolence, were I to describe thus briefly and in so cursory a
manner the land which is at once the foster-child[1153] and the parent
of all lands; chosen by the providence of the Gods to render even
heaven itself more glorious[1154], to unite the scattered empires
of the earth, to bestow a polish upon men’s manners, to unite the
discordant and uncouth dialects of so many different nations by the
powerful ties of one common language, to confer the enjoyments of
discourse and of civilization upon mankind, to become, in short, the
mother-country of all nations of the Earth.
But how shall I commence this undertaking? So vast is the number of
celebrated places (what man living could enumerate them all?), and
so great the renown attached to each individual nation and subject,
that I feel myself quite at a loss. The city of Rome alone, which
forms a portion of it, a face well worthy of shoulders so beauteous,
how large a work would it require for an appropriate description! And
then too the coast of Campania, taken singly by itself! so blest with
natural beauties and opulence, that it is evident that when nature
formed it she took a delight in accumulating all her blessings in
a single spot—how am I to do justice to it? And then the climate,
with its eternal freshness and so replete with health and vitality,
the sereneness of the weather so enchanting, the fields so fertile,
the hill sides so sunny, the thickets so free from every danger, the
groves so cool and shady, the forests with a vegetation so varying
and so luxuriant, the breezes descending from so many a mountain, the
fruitfulness of its grain, its vines, and its olives so transcendent;
its flocks with fleeces so noble, its bulls with necks so sinewy,
its lakes recurring in never-ending succession, its numerous rivers
and springs which refresh it with their waters on every side, its
seas so many in number, its havens and the bosom of its lands opening
everywhere to the commerce of all the world, and as it were eagerly
stretching forth into the very midst of the waves, for the purpose of
aiding as it were the endeavours of mortals!
For the present I forbear to speak of its genius, its manners, its men,
and the nations whom it has conquered by eloquence and force of arms.
The very Greeks themselves, a race fond in the extreme of expatiating
on their own praises, have amply given judgment in its favour, when
they named but a small part of it ‘Magna Græcia[1155].’ But we must be
content to do on this occasion as we have done in our description of
the heavens; we must only touch upon some of these points, and take
notice of but a few of its stars. I only beg my readers to bear in
mind that I am thus hastening on for the purpose of giving a general
description of everything that is known to exist throughout the whole
earth.
I may premise by observing that this land very much resembles in shape
an oak leaf, being much longer than it is broad; towards the top it
inclines to the left[1156], while it terminates in the form of an
Amazonian buckler[1157], in which the spot at the central projection
is the place called Cocinthos, while it sends forth two horns at the
end of its crescent-shaped bays, Leucopetra on the right and Lacinium
on the left. It extends in length 1020 miles, if we measure from the
foot of the Alps at Prætoria Augusta, through the city of Rome and
Capua to the town of Rhegium, which is situate on the shoulder of the
Peninsula, just at the bend of the neck as it were. The distance would
be much greater if measured to Lacinium, but in that case the line,
being drawn obliquely, would incline too much to one side. Its breadth
is variable; being 410 miles between the two seas, the Lower and the
Upper[1158], and the rivers Varus and Arsia[1159]: at about the middle,
and in the vicinity of the city of Rome, from the spot where the river
Aternus[1160] flows into the Adriatic sea, to the mouth of the Tiber,
the distance is 136 miles, and a little less from Castrum-novum on the
Adriatic sea to Alsium[1161] on the Tuscan; but in no place does it
exceed 200 miles in breadth. The circuit of the whole, from the Varus
to the Arsia, is 3059 miles[1162].
As to its distance from the countries that surround it—Istria and
Liburnia are, in some places[1163], 100 miles from it, and Epirus
and Illyricum 50; Africa is less than 200, as we are informed by M.
Varro; Sardinia[1164] is 120, Sicily 1-1/2, Corsica less than 80, and
Issa[1165] 50. It extends into the two seas towards the southern parts
of the heavens, or, to speak with more minute exactness, between the
sixth[1166] hour and the first hour of the winter solstice.
We will now describe its extent and its different cities; in doing
which, it is necessary to premise, that we shall follow the arrangement
of the late Emperor Augustus, and adopt the division which he made
of the whole of Italy into eleven districts; taking them, however,
according to their order on the sea-line, as in so hurried a detail it
would not be possible otherwise to describe each city in juxtaposition
with the others in its vicinity. And for the same reason, in describing
the interior, I shall follow the alphabetical order which has been
adopted by that Emperor, pointing out the colonies of which he has
made mention in his enumeration. Nor is it a very easy task to trace
their situation and origin; for, not to speak of others, the Ingaunian
Ligurians have had lands granted to them as many as thirty different
times.
CHAP. 7.—OF THE NINTH[1167] REGION OF ITALY.
To begin then with the river Varus; we have the town of Nicæa[1168],
founded by the Massilians, the river Paulo[1169], the Alps and
the Alpine tribes, distinguished by various names[1170], but more
especially the Capillati[1171], Cemenelio[1172], a town of the state
of the Vediantii, the port of Hercules Monæcus[1173], and the Ligurian
coast. The more celebrated of the Ligurian tribes beyond the Alps are
the Salluvii, the Deciates, and the Oxubii[1174]; on this side of the
Alps, the Veneni[1175], and the Vagienni, who are derived from the
Caturiges[1176], the Statielli[1177], the Bimbelli[1178], the Magelli,
the Euburiates, the Casmonates[1179], the Veleiates[1180], and the
peoples whose towns we shall describe as lying near the adjoining
coast. The river Rutuba[1181], the town of Albium Intemelium[1182],
the river Merula[1183], the town of Albium Ingaunum[1184], the port of
Vadum Sabatiorum[1185], the river Porcifera[1186], the town of Genua,
the river Feritor[1187], the Portus Delphini[1188], Tigullia[1189],
Tegesta[1190] of the Tigullii, and the river Macra[1191], which is the
boundary of Liguria.
Extending behind all the before-mentioned places are the Apennines, the
most considerable of all the mountains of Italy, the chain of which
extends unbroken from the Alps[1192] to the Sicilian sea. On the other
side of the Apennines, towards the Padus[1193], the richest river of
Italy, the whole country is adorned with noble towns; Libarna[1194],
the colony of Dertona[1195], Iria[1196], Barderate[1197],
Industria[1198], Pollentia[1199], Carrea surnamed Potentia[1200],
Foro Fulvî or Valentinum[1201], Augusta[1202] of the Vagienni, Alba
Pompeia[1203], Asta[1204], and Aquæ Statiellorum[1205]. This is the
ninth region, according to the arrangement of Augustus. The coast of
Liguria extends 211 miles[1206], between the rivers Varus and Macra.
CHAP. 8.—THE SEVENTH REGION OF ITALY.
Next to this comes the seventh region, in which is Etruria, a district
which begins at the river Macra, and has often changed its name. At
an early period the Umbri were expelled from it by the Pelasgi; and
these again by the Lydians, who from a king of theirs[1207] were named
Tyrrheni, but afterwards, from the rites observed in their sacrifices,
were called, in the Greek language[1208], Tusci. The first town in
Etruria is Luna[1209], with a noble harbour, then the colony of
Luca[1210], at some distance from the sea, and nearer to it again the
colony of Pisæ[1211], between the rivers Auser[1212] and Arnus[1213],
which owes its origin to Pelops and the Pisans[1214], or else to the
Teutani, a people of Greece. Next is Vada[1215] Volaterrana, then the
river Cecinna[1216], and Populonium[1217] formerly belonging to the
Etrurians, the only town they had on this coast. Next to these is the
river Prile[1218], then the Umbro[1219], which is navigable, and where
the district of Umbria begins, the port of Telamon[1220], Cosa[1221] of
the Volcientes, founded by the Roman people, Graviscæ[1222], Castrum
novum[1223], Pyrgi[1224], the river Cæretanus[1225], and Cære[1226]
itself, four miles inland, called Agylla by the Pelasgi who founded it,
Alsium[1227], Fregenæ[1228], and the river Tiber, 284[1229] miles from
the Macra.
In the interior we have the colonies of Falisci[1230], founded
by the Argives, according to the account of Cato[1231], and
surnamed Falisci Etruscorum, Lucus Feroniæ[1232], Rusellana, the
Senienses[1233], and Sutrina[1234]. The remaining peoples are
the Arretini[1235] Veteres, the Arretini Fidentes, the Arretini
Julienses, the Amitinenses, the Aquenses, surnamed Taurini[1236],
the Blerani[1237], the Cortonenses[1238], the Capenates[1239], the
Clusini Novi, the Clusini Veteres[1240], the Florentini[1241],
situate on the stream of the Arnus, Fæsulæ[1242], Ferentinum[1243],
Fescennia[1244], Hortanum[1245], Herbanum[1246], Nepeta[1247],
Novem Pagi[1248], the Claudian præfecture of Foroclodium[1249],
Pistorium[1250], Perusia[1251], the Suanenses, the Saturnini, formerly
called the Aurinini, the Subertani[1252], the Statones[1253], the
Tarquinienses[1254], the Tuscanienses[1255], the Vetulonienses[1256],
the Veientani[1257], the Vesentini[1258], the Volaterrani[1259], the
Volcentini[1260], surnamed Etrusci, and the Volsinienses[1261]. In the
same district the territories of Crustumerium[1262] and Caletra[1263]
retain the names of the ancient towns.
CHAP. 9.—THE FIRST REGION OF ITALY[1264]; THE TIBER; ROME.
The Tiber or Tiberis, formerly called Thybris, and previously
Albula[1265], flows down from nearly the central part of the chain
of the Apennines, in the territory of the Arretini. It is at first
small, and only navigable by means of sluices, in which the water is
dammed up and then discharged, in the same manner as the Timia[1266]
and the Glanis, which flow into it; for which purpose it is found
necessary to collect the water for nine days, unless there should
happen to be a fall of rain. And even then, the Tiber, by reason of
its rugged and uneven channel, is really more suitable for navigation
by rafts than by vessels, for any great distance. It winds along for
a course of 150 miles, passing not far from Tifernum[1267], Perusia,
and Ocriculum[1268], and dividing Etruria from the Umbri[1269] and the
Sabini[1270], and then, at a distance of less than sixteen miles from
the city, separating the territory of Veii from that of Crustuminum,
and afterwards that of the Fidenates and of Latium from Vaticanum.
Below its union with the Glanis from Arretinum the Tiber is swollen by
two and forty streams, particularly the Nar[1271] and the Anio, which
last is also navigable and shuts in Latium at the back; it is also
increased by the numerous aqueducts and springs which are conveyed to
the City. Here it becomes navigable by vessels of any burden which
may come up from the Italian sea; a most tranquil dispenser of the
produce of all parts of the earth, and peopled and embellished along
its banks with more villas than nearly all the other rivers of the
world taken together. And yet there is no river more circumscribed
than it, so close are its banks shut in on either side; but still, no
resistance does it offer, although its waters frequently rise with
great suddenness, and no part is more liable to be swollen than that
which runs through the City itself. In such case, however, the Tiber is
rather to be looked upon[1272] as pregnant with prophetic warnings to
us, and in its increase to be considered more as a promoter of religion
than a source of devastation.
Latium[1273] has preserved its original limits, from the Tiber to
Circeii[1274], a distance of fifty miles: so slender at the beginning
were the roots from which this our Empire sprang. Its inhabitants have
been often changed, and different nations have peopled it at different
times, the Aborigines, the Pelasgi, the Arcades, the Seculi, the
Aurunci, the Rutuli, and, beyond Circeii, the Volsci, the Osci, and the
Ausones whence the name of Latium came to be extended as far as the
river Liris[1275].
We will begin with Ostia[1276], a colony founded by a king of Rome,
the town of Laurentum[1277], the grove of Jupiter Indiges[1278], the
river Numicius[1279], and Ardea[1280], founded by Danaë, the mother of
Perseus. Next come the former site of Aphrodisium[1281], the colony
of Antium[1282], the river and island called Astura[1283], the river
Nymphæus[1284], the Clostra Romana[1285], and Circeii[1286], formerly
an island, and, if we are to believe Homer, surrounded by the open
sea, though now by an extensive plain. The circumstances which we are
enabled to publish on this subject for the information of the world
are very remarkable. Theophrastus, the first foreigner who treated
of the affairs of Rome with any degree of accuracy (for Theopompus,
before whose time no Greek writer had made mention of us, only stated
the fact that the city had been taken by the Gauls, and Clitarchus,
the next after him, only spoke of the embassy that was sent by the
Romans to Alexander)—Theophrastus, I say, following something more than
mere rumour, has given the circuit of the island of Circeii as being
eighty stadia, in the volume which he wrote during the archonship of
Nicodorus at Athens[1287], being the 440th year of our city. Whatever
land therefore has been annexed to that island beyond the circumference
of about ten miles, has been added to Italy since the year previously
mentioned.
Another wonderful circumstance too.—Near Circeii are the Pomptine
Marshes[1288], formerly the site, according to Mucianus, who was
thrice consul, of four-and-twenty cities. Next to this comes the river
Ufens[1289], upon which is the town of Terracina[1290], called, in the
language of the Volsci, Anxur; the spot too where Amyclæ[1291] stood,
a town destroyed by serpents. Next is the site of the Grotto[1292],
Lake Fundanus[1293], the port of Caieta[1294], and then the town
of Formiæ[1295], formerly called Hormiæ, the ancient seat of the
Læstrygones[1296], it is supposed. Beyond this, formerly stood the
town of Pyræ; and we then come to the colony of Minturnæ[1297], which
still exists, and is divided[1298] by the river Liris, also called the
Glanis. The town of Sinuessa[1299] is the last in the portion which
has been added to Latium; it is said by some that it used to be called
Sinope.
At this spot begins that blessed country Campania[1300], and in this
vale first take their rise those hills clad with vines, the juice of
whose grape is extolled by Fame all over the world; the happy spot
where, as the ancients used to say, father Liber and Ceres are ever
striving for the mastery. Hence the fields of Setia[1301] and of
Cæcubum[1302] extend afar, and, next to them those of Falernum[1303]
and of Calinum[1304]. As soon as we have passed these, the hills of
Massica[1305], of Gaurus[1306], and of Surrentum rise to our view.
Next, the level plains of Laborium[1307] are spread out far and wide,
where every care is bestowed on cultivating crops of spelt, from which
the most delicate fermenty is made. These shores are watered by warm
springs[1308], while the seas are distinguished beyond all others
for the superlative excellence of their shell and other fish. In no
country too has the oil of the olive a more exquisite flavour. This
territory, a battle-ground as it were for the gratification of every
luxurious pleasure of man, has been held successively by the Osci, the
Greeks, the Umbri, the Tusci, and the Campani.
On the coast we first meet with the river Savo[1309], the town
of Volturnum with a river[1310] of the same name, the town of
Liternum[1311], Cumæ[1312], a Chalcidian colony, Misenum[1313],
the port of Baiæ[1314], Bauli[1315], the Lucrine Lake[1316], and
Lake Avernus, near which there stood formerly a town[1317] of the
Cimmerians. We then come to Puteoli[1318], formerly called the colony
of Dicæarchia, then the Phlegræan[1319] Plains, and the Marsh of
Acherusia[1320] in the vicinity of Cumæ.
Again, on the coast we have Neapolis[1321], also a colony of the
Chalcidians, and called Parthenope from the tomb there of one of the
Sirens, Herculaneum[1322], Pompeii[1323], from which Mount Vesuvius
may be seen at no great distance, and which is watered by the river
Sarnus[1324]; the territory of Nuceria, and, at the distance of
nine miles from the sea, the town of that name[1325], and then
Surrentum[1326], with the Promontory of Minerva[1327], formerly
the abode of the Sirens. The distance thence by sea to Circeii is
seventy-eight miles. This region, beginning at the Tiber, is looked
upon as the first of Italy according to the division of Augustus.
Inland there are the following colonies:—Capua[1328], so called from
its champaign country, Aquinum[1329], Suessa[1330], Venafrum[1331],
Sora[1332], Teanum surnamed Sidicinum[1333], Nola[1334]; and the towns
of Abelia[1335], Aricia[1336], Alba Longa[1337], the Acerrani[1338],
the Allifani[1339], the Atinates[1340], the Aletrinates[1341],
the Anagnini[1342], the Atellani[1343], the Affilani[1344], the
Arpinates[1345], the Auximates[1346], the Abellani[1347], the Alfaterni
(both those who take their names from the Latin, the Hernican and the
Labicanian territory), Bovillæ[1348], Calatia[1349], Casinum[1350],
Calenum[1351], Capitulum[1352] of the Hernici, the Cereatini[1353],
surnamed Mariani, the Corani[1354], descended from the Trojan Dardanus,
the Cubulterini, the Castrimœnienses[1355], the Cingulani[1356], the
Fabienses[1357] on the Alban Mount, the Foropopulienses[1358] of the
Falernian district, the Frusinates[1359], the Ferentinates[1360],
the Freginates[1361], the old Frabaterni[1362], the new Frabaterni,
the Ficolenses[1363], the Fregellani[1364], Forum Appî[1365], the
Forentani[1366], the Gabini[1367], the Interamnates Succasini[1368],
also surnamed Lirinates, the Ilionenses Lavinii[1369], the
Norbani[1370], the Nomentani[1371], the Prænestini[1372] (whose city
was formerly called Stephané), the Privernates[1373], the Setini[1374],
the Signini[1375], the Suessulani[1376], the Telesini[1377], the
Trebulani, surnamed Balinienses[1378], the Trebani[1379], the
Tusculani[1380], the Verulani[1381], the Veliterni[1382], the
Ulubrenses[1383], the Urbinates[1384], and, last and greater than
all, Rome herself, whose other name[1385] the hallowed mysteries of
the sacred rites forbid us to mention without being guilty of the
greatest impiety. After it had been long kept buried in secresy with
the strictest fidelity and in respectful and salutary silence, Valerius
Soranus dared to divulge it, but soon did he pay the penalty[1386] of
his rashness.
It will not perhaps be altogether foreign to the purpose, if I here
make mention of one peculiar institution of our forefathers which bears
especial reference to the inculcation of silence on religious matters.
The goddess Angerona[1387], to whom sacrifice is offered on the twelfth
day before the calends of January [21st December], is represented in
her statue as having her mouth bound with a sealed fillet.
Romulus left the city of Rome, if we are to believe those who state
the very greatest number, having three[1388] gates and no more. When
the Vespasians were emperors[1389] and censors, in the year from its
building 826, the circumference of the walls which surrounded it was
thirteen miles and two-fifths. Surrounding as it does the Seven Hills,
the city is divided into fourteen districts, with 265 cross-roads[1390]
under the guardianship of the Lares. If a straight line is drawn from
the mile-column[1391] placed at the entrance of the Forum, to each of
the gates, which are at present thirty-seven in number (taking care
to count only once the twelve double gates, and to omit the seven
old ones, which no longer exist), the result will be [taking them
altogether], a straight line of twenty miles and 765 paces[1392].
But if we draw a straight line from the same mile-column to the very
last of the houses, including therein the Prætorian encampment, and
follow throughout the line of all the streets, the result will then be
something more than seventy miles. Add to these calculations the height
of the houses, and then a person may form a fair idea of this city, and
will certainly be obliged to admit that there is not a place throughout
the whole world that for size can be compared to it. On the eastern
side it is bounded by the _agger_ of Tarquinius Superbus, a work of
surpassing grandeur; for he raised it so high as to be on a level with
the walls on the side on which the city lay most exposed to attack from
the neighbouring plains. On all the other sides it has been fortified
either with lofty walls or steep and precipitous hills[1393], but so
it is, that its buildings, increasing and extending beyond all bounds,
have now united many other cities to it[1394].
Besides those previously mentioned, there were formerly in the
first region the following famous towns of Latium: Satricum[1395],
Pometia[1396], Scaptia, Politorium[1397], Tellene, Tifata,
Cænina[1398], Ficana[1399], Crustumerium, Ameriola[1400],
Medullum[1401], Corniculum[1402], Saturnia[1403], on the site of the
present city of Rome, Antipolis[1404], now Janiculum, forming part of
Rome, Antemnæ[1405], Camerium[1406], Collatia[1407], Amitinum[1408],
Norbe, Sulmo[1409], and, with these, those Alban nations[1410] who used
to take part in the sacrifices[1411] upon the Alban Mount, the Albani,
the Æsulani[1412], the Accienses, the Abolani, the Bubetani[1413], the
Bolani[1414], the Cusuetani, the Coriolani[1415], the Fidenates[1416],
the Foretii, the Hortenses[1417], the Latinienses, the Longulani[1418],
the Manates, the Macrales, the Mutucumenses, the Munienses, the
Numinienses, the Olliculani, the Octulani, the Pedani[1419], the
Polluscini, the Querquetulani, the Sicani, the Sisolenses, the
Tolerienses, the Tutienses, the Vimitellarii, the Velienses, the
Venetulani, and the Vitellenses. Thus we see, fifty-three peoples of
ancient Latium have passed away without leaving any traces of their
existence.
In the Campanian territory there was also the town of Stabiæ[1420],
until the consulship of Cneius Pompeius and L. Cato, when, on the day
before the calends of May [30th of April], it was destroyed in the
Social War by L. Sulla the legatus, and all that now stands on its site
is a single farmhouse. Here also Taurania has ceased to exist, and the
remains of Casilinum[1421] are fast going to ruin. Besides these, we
learn from Antias that king L. Tarquinius took Apiolæ[1422], a town
of the Latins, and with its spoils laid the first foundations of the
Capitol. From Surrentum[1423] to the river Silarus[1424], the former
territory of Picentia[1425] extends for a distance of thirty miles.
This belonged to the Etruscans, and was remarkable for the temple
of the Argive Juno, founded by Jason[1426]. In it was Picentia, a
town[1427] of the territory of Salernum[1428].
CHAP. 10.—THE THIRD REGION OF ITALY.
At the Silarus begins the third region of Italy, consisting of the
territory of Lucania and Bruttium; here too there have been no few
changes of the population. These districts have been possessed by
tbe Pelasgi, the Œnotrii, the Itali, the Morgetes, the Siculi, and
more especially by people who emigrated from Greece[1429], and, last
of all, by the Leucani, a people sprung from the Samnites, who took
possession under the command of Lucius. We find here the town of
Pæstum[1430], which received from the Greeks the name of Posidonia,
the Gulf of Pæstum[1431], the town of Elea, now known as Velia[1432],
and the Promontory of Palinurum[1433], a point at which the land
falls inwards and forms a bay[1434], the distance across which to the
pillar[1435] of Rhegium is 100 miles. Next after Palinurum comes the
river Melpes[1436], then the town of Buxentum[1437], called in [Magna]
Græcia Pyxus, and the river Laus; there was formerly a town[1438] also
of the same name.
At this spot begins the coast of Bruttium, and we come to the town
of Blanda[1439], the river Batum[1440], Parthenius, a port of the
Phocians, the bay of Vibo[1441], the place[1442] where Clampetia
formerly stood, the town of Temsa[1443], called Temese by the Greeks,
and Terina founded by the people of Crotona[1444], with the extensive
Gulf of Terina; more inland, the town of Consentia[1445]. Situate upon
a peninsula[1446] is the river Acheron[1447], from which the people of
Acherontia derive the name of their town; then Hippo, now called Vibo
Valentia, the Port of Hercules[1448], the river Metaurus[1449], the
town of Tauroentum[1450], the Port of Orestes, and Medma[1451]. Next,
the town of Scyllæum[1452], the river Cratæis[1453], the mother of
Scylla it is said; then the Pillar of Rhegium, the Straits of Sicily,
and the two promontories which face each other, Cænys[1454] on the
Italian, and Pelorus[1455] on the Sicilian side, the distance between
them being twelve stadia. At a distance thence of twelve miles and a
half, we come to Rhegium[1456], after which begins Sila[1457], a forest
of the Apennines, and then the promontory of Leucopetra[1458], at a
distance of fifteen miles; after which come the Locri[1459], who take
their surname from the promontory of Zephyrium[1460], being distant
from the river Silarus 303 miles.
At this spot ends the first[1461] great Gulf of Europe; the seas in
which bear the following names:—That from which it takes its rise is
called the Atlantic, by some the Great Atlantic, the entrance of which
is, by the Greeks, called Porthmos, by us the Straits of Gades. After
its entrance, as far as it washes the coasts of Spain, it is called
the Hispanian Sea, though some give it the name of the Iberian or
Balearic[1462] Sea. Where it faces the province of Gallia Narbonensis
it has the name of the Gallic, and after that, of the Ligurian, Sea.
From Liguria to the island of Sicily, it is called the Tuscan Sea,
the same which is called by some of the Greeks the Notian[1463], by
others the Tyrrhenian, while many of our people call it the Lower
Sea. Beyond Sicily, as far as the country of the Salentini, it is
styled by Polybius the Ausonian Sea. Eratosthenes however gives to
the whole expanse that lies between the inlet of the ocean and the
island of Sardinia, the name of the Sardoan Sea; thence to Sicily, the
Tyrrhenian; thence to Crete, the Sicilian; and beyond that island, the
Cretan Sea.
CHAP. 11.—SIXTY-FOUR ISLANDS, AMONG WHICH ARE THE BALEARES.
The first islands that we meet with in all these seas are the two
to which the Greeks have given the name of Pityussæ[1464], from the
pine-tree[1465], which they produce. These islands now bear the name
of Ebusus, and form a federate state. They are separated by a narrow
strait[1466] of the sea, and are forty-six[1467] miles in extent.
They are distant from Dianium[1468] 700 stadia, Dianium being by land
the same distance[1469] from New Carthage. At the same distance[1470]
from the Pityussæ, lie, in the open sea, the two Baleares, and, over
against the river Sucro[1471], Colubraria[1472]. The Baleares[1473],
so formidable in war with their slingers[1474], have received from the
Greeks the name of Gymnasiæ.
The larger island is 100[1475] miles in length, and 475 in
circumference. It has the following towns; Palma[1476] and
Pollentia[1477], enjoying the rights of Roman citizens, Cinium[1478]
and Tucis, with Latin rights: Bocchorum, a federate town, is no longer
in existence. At thirty miles’ distance is the smaller island, 40
miles in length, and 150[1479] in circumference; it contains the states
of Jamnon[1480], Sanisera, and Magon[1481].
In the open sea, at twelve miles’ distance from the larger island,
is Capraria[1482] with its treacherous coast, so notorious for its
numerous shipwrecks; and, opposite to the city of Palma, are the
islands known as the Mænariæ[1483], Tiquadra[1484], and Little
Hannibalis[1485].
The earth of Ebusus has the effect of driving away serpents, while
that of Colubraria produces them; hence the latter spot is dangerous
to all persons who have not brought with them some of the earth of
Ebusus. The Greeks have given it the name of Ophiusa[1486]. Ebusus too
produces no[1487] rabbits to destroy the harvests of the Baleares.
There are also about twenty other small islands in this sea, which is
full of shoals. Off the coast of Gaul, at the mouth of the Rhodanus,
there is Metina[1488], and near it the island which is known as
Blascon[1489], with the three Stœchades, so called by their neighbours
the Massilians[1490], on account of the regular order in which they
are placed; their respective names are Prote[1491], Mese[1492], also
called Pomponiana, and Hypæa[1493]. After these come Sturium[1494],
Phœnice, Phila, Lero, and, opposite to Antipolis[1495], Lerina[1496],
where there is a remembrance of a town called Vergoanum having once
existed.
CHAP. 12. (6.)—CORSICA.
In the Ligurian Sea, but close to the Tuscan, is Corsica, by the Greeks
called Cyrnos, extending, from north to south 150 miles, and for the
most part 50 miles in breadth, its circumference being 325. It is 62
miles distant from the Vada Volaterrana[1497]. It contains thirty-two
states, and two colonies, that of Mariana[1498], founded by C. Marius,
and that of Aleria, founded by the Dictator Sylla. On this side of
it is Oglasa[1499], and, at a distance of less than sixty miles from
Corsica, Planaria[1500], so called from its appearance, being nearly
level with the sea, and consequently treacherous to mariners.
We next have Urgo[1501], a larger island, and Capraria, which the
Greeks have called Ægilion[1502]; then Igilium[1503] and Dianium[1504],
which they have also called Artemisia, both of them opposite the
coast of Cosa; also Barpana[1505], Mænaria, Columbaria, and
Venaria. We then come to Ilva[1506] with its iron mines, an island
100 miles in circumference, 10 miles distant from Populonium, and
called Æthalia by the Greeks: from it the island of Planasia[1507]
is distant 28 miles. After these, beyond the mouths of the Tiber,
and off the coast of Antium, we come to Astura[1508], then Palmaria
and Sinonia, and, opposite to Formiæ, Pontiæ. In the Gulf of Puteoli
are Pandateria[1509], and Prochyta, so called, not from the nurse of
Æneas, but because it has been poured forth[1510] or detached from
Ænaria[1511], an island which received its name from having been the
anchorage of the fleet of Æneas, though called by Homer Inarime[1512];
it is also called Pithecusa, not, as many have fancied, on account
of the multitudes of apes found there, but from its extensive
manufactories of pottery. Between Pausilipum[1513] and Neapolis lies
the island of Megaris[1514], and then, at a distance of eight miles
from Surrentum, Capreæ[1515], famous for the castle of the emperor
Tiberius: it is eleven miles in circumference.
CHAP. 13.—SARDINIA.
Leucothea comes next, and after it, but out of sight, as it lies
upon the verge of the African Sea, Sardinia. It is situate somewhat
less[1516] than eight miles from the nearest point of Corsica, and
the Straits between them are even still more reduced by the small
islands there situate, called the Cuniculariæ[1517], as also those of
Phintonis[1518] and Fossæ, from which last the Straits themselves have
obtained the name of Taphros[1519].
(7.) Sardinia extends, upon the east side, a distance of 188 miles, on
the west 175, on the south 77, and on the north 125, being 565 miles in
circumference. Its promontory of Caralis[1520] is distant from Africa
200, and from Gades 1400 miles. Off the promontory of Gordis[1521] it
has two islands called the Isles of Hercules[1522], off that of Sulcis,
the island of Enosis[1523], and off that of Caralis, Ficaria[1524].
Some writers place Beleris not far from it, as also Callodis, and the
island known as Heras Lutra[1525].
The most celebrated peoples of this island are the Ilienses[1526], the
Balari, and the Corsi; and among its eighteen towns, there are those
of the Sulcitani[1527], the Valentini[1528], the Neapolitani[1529],
the Bosenses[1530], the Caralitani[1531], who enjoy the rights of
Roman citizens, and the Norenses[1532]. There is also one colony which
is called Ad Turrim Libysonis[1533]. Timæus has called this island
Sandaliotis, on account of the similarity of its shape to the sole of a
shoe, while Myrtilus has given it the name of Ichnusa[1534], from its
resemblance to the print of a footstep. Opposite to the Gulf of Pæstum
is Leucasia[1535], so called from a Siren who is buried there; opposite
to Velia are Pontia and Isacia, both known by one name, that of
Œnotrides, a proof that Italy was formerly possessed by the Œnotrians.
Opposite to Vibo are the little islands called Ithacesiæ[1536], from
the watch-tower of Ulysses situate there.
CHAP. 14. (8.)—SICILY.
But more celebrated than all is Sicily, called Sicania by
Thucydides, and by many writers Trinacria or Trinacia, from its
triangular appearance. According to Agrippa it is 618[1537] miles in
circumference. In former times it was a continuation of the territory
of Bruttium, but, in consequence of the overflowing of the sea, became
severed from it; thus forming a strait of 15 miles in length, and a
mile and a half in width in the vicinity of the Pillar of Rhegium.
It was from this circumstance of the land being severed asunder that
the Greeks gave the name of Rhegium[1538] to the town situate on the
Italian shore.
In these Straits is the rock of Scylla, as also Charybdis[1539], a
whirlpool of the sea, both of them noted for their perils. Of this
triangle, the promontory, which, as we have already[1540] mentioned,
is called Pelorus, faces Scylla and juts out towards Italy, while
Pachynum[1541] extends in the direction of Greece, Peloponnesus being
at a distance from it of 440 miles, and Lilybæum[1542], towards Africa,
being distant 180 miles from the promontory of Mercury[1543], and from
that of Caralis in Sardinia 190. These promontories and sides are
situate at the following distances from each other: by land it is 186
miles from Pelorus to Pachynum, from Pachynum to Lilybæum 200, and from
Lilybæum to Pelorus 170[1544].
In this island there are five colonies and sixty-three cities or
states. Leaving Pelorus and facing the Ionian Sea, we have the town
of Messana[1545], whose inhabitants are also called Mamertini and
enjoy the rights of Roman citizens; the promontory of Drepanum[1546],
the colony of Tauromenium[1547], formerly called Naxos, the river
Asines[1548], and Mount Ætna, wondrous for the flames which it emits
by night. Its crater is twenty stadia in circumference, and from
it red-hot cinders are thrown as far as Tauromenium and Catina,
the noise being heard even at Maroneum[1549] and the Gemellian
Hills. We then come to the three rocks of the Cyclopes[1550], the
Port of Ulysses[1551], the colony of Catina[1552], and the rivers
Symæthus[1553] and Terias; while more inland lie the Læstrygonian
Plains.
To these rivers succeed the towns of Leontinum[1554] and Megaris, the
river Pantagies[1555], the colony of Syracuse[1556], with the fountain
of Arethusa[1557], (the people in the Syracusan territory drink too
of the fountains of Temenitis[1558], Archidemia, Magæa, Cyane, and
Milichie,) the port of Naustathmus[1559], the river Elorus, and the
promontory of Pachynum. This side[1560] of Sicily begins with the river
Hirminius[1561], then follow the town of Camarina[1562], the river
Gelas[1563], and the town of Agragas[1564], which our people have named
Agrigentum. We next come to the colony of Thermæ[1565], the rivers
Achates[1566], Mazara, and Hypsa; the town of Selinus[1567], and then
the Promontory of Lilybæum, which is succeeded by Drepana[1568], Mount
Eryx[1569], the towns of Panhormus[1570], Solus[1571] and Himera[1572],
with a river of the same name, Cephalœdis[1573], Aluntium[1574],
Agathyrnum, the colony of Tyndaris[1575], the town of Mylæ[1576], and
then Pelorus, the spot at which we began.
In the interior there are the following towns enjoying Latin
privileges, those of the Centuripini[1577], the Netini[1578], and the
Segestani[1579]; tributary towns are those of the Assorini[1580], the
Ætnenses[1581], the Agyrini[1582], the Acestæi, the Acrenses[1583], the
Bidini[1584], the Cetarini[1585], the Cacyrini[1586], the Drepanitani,
the Ergetini[1587], the Echetlienses[1588], the Erycini[1589],
the Entellini[1590], the Enini[1591], the Enguini[1592], the
Gelani[1593], the Galatini[1594], the Halesini[1595], the Hennenses,
the Hyblenses[1596], the Herbitenses[1597], the Herbessenses[1598],
the Herbulenses, the Halicyenses[1599], the Hadranitani[1600], the
Imacarenses, the Ipanenses, the Ietenses[1601], the Mytistratini[1602],
the Magellini, the Murgentini[1603], the Mutycenses[1604], the
Menanini[1605], the Naxii[1606], the Noæi[1607], the Petrini[1608],
the Paropini[1609], the Phthinthienses[1610], the Semellitani, the
Scherini, the Selinuntii[1611], the Symæthii, the Talarienses, the
Tissinenses[1612], the Triocalini[1613], the Tyracinenses, and the
Zanclæi[1614], a Messenian colony on the Straits of Sicily. Towards
Africa, its islands are Gaulos[1615], Melita, 87 miles from Camerina,
and 113 from Lilybæum, Cosyra[1616], Hieronnesos[1617], Cæne[1618],
Galata[1619], Lopadusa, Æthusa, written by some Ægusa, Bucinna[1620],
Osteodes[1621], distant from Soluntum 75 miles, and, opposite to
Paropus, Ustica.
On this side of Sicily, facing the river Metaurus, at a distance of
nearly 25[1622] miles from Italy, are the seven[1623] islands called
the Æolian, as also the Liparæan islands; by the Greeks they are called
the Hephæstiades, and by our writers the Vulcanian[1624] Isles; they
are called “Æolian” because in the Trojan times Æolus was king there.
(9.) Lipara[1625], with a town whose inhabitants enjoy the rights
of Roman citizens, is so called from Liparus, a former king who
succeeded[1626] Æolus, it having been previously called Melogonis
or Meligunis. It is 25 miles[1627] distant from Italy, and in
circumference a little less. Between this island and Sicily we find
another, the name of which was formerly Therasia, but now called Hiera,
because it is sacred to Vulcan[1628]: it contains a hill which at night
vomits forth flames. The third island is Strongyle[1629], lying one
mile[1630] to the east of Lipara, over which Æolus reigned as well;
it differs only from Lipara in the superior brilliancy of its flames.
From the smoke of this volcano it is said that some of the inhabitants
are able to predict three days beforehand what winds are about to
blow; hence arose the notion that the winds are governed by Æolus.
The fourth of these islands is Didyme[1631], smaller than Lipara, the
fifth Ericusa, the sixth Phœnicusa, left to be a pasture-ground for the
cattle of the neighbouring islands, and the last and smallest Euonymos.
Thus much as to the first great Gulf of Europe.
CHAP. 15. (10.)—MAGNA GRÆCIA, BEGINNING AT LOCRI.
At Locri begins the fore-part of Italy, called Magna Græcia, whose
coast falls back in three bays[1632] formed by the Ausonian sea,
so called from the Ausones, who were the first inhabitants of the
country. According to Varro it is 86 miles in extent; but most writers
have made it only 75. Along this coast there are rivers innumerable,
but we shall mention those only that are worthy of remark. After
leaving Locri we come to the Sagra[1633], and the ruins of the town of
Caulon, Mystiæ[1634], Consilinum Castrum[1635], Cocinthum[1636], in
the opinion of some, the longest headland of Italy, and then the Gulf
of Scylacium[1637], and Scylacium[1638] itself, which was called by
the Athenians, when they founded it, Scylletium. This part of Italy
is nearly a peninsula, in consequence of the Gulf of Terinæum[1639]
running up into it on the other side; in it there is a harbour called
Castra Hannibalis[1640]: in no part is Italy narrower than here, it
being but twenty miles across. For this reason the Elder Dionysius
entertained the idea of severing[1641] this portion from the main-land
of Italy at this spot, and adding it to Sicily. The navigable rivers in
this district are the Carcines[1642], the Crotalus, the Semirus, the
Arocas, and the Targines. In the interior is the town of Petilia[1643],
and there are besides, Mount Clibanus[1644], the promontory of
Lacinium, in front of which lies the island of Dioscoron[1645], ten
miles from the main-land, and another called the Isle of Calypso, which
Homer is supposed to refer to under the name of Ogygia; as also the
islands of Tiris, Eranusa, and Meloessa. According to Agrippa, the
promontory of Lacinium[1646] is seventy miles from Caulon.
(11.) At the promontory of Lacinium begins the second Gulf of Europe,
the bend of which forms an arc of great depth, and terminates at
Acroceraunium, a promontory of Epirus, from which it is distant[1647]
seventy-five miles. We first come to the town of Croton[1648], and then
the river Neæthus[1649], and the town of Thurii[1650], situate between
the two rivers Crathis and Sybaris, upon the latter of which there was
once a city[1651] of the same name. In a similar manner Heraclia[1652],
sometimes called Siris, lies between the river of that name and the
Aciris. We next come to the rivers Acalandrus and Casuentum[1653], and
the town of Metapontum[1654], with which the third region of Italy
terminates. In the interior of Bruttium, the Aprustani[1655] are the
only people; but in Lucania we find the Atinates, the Bantini, the
Eburini[1656], the Grumentini, the Potentini, the Sontini[1657], the
Sirini, the Tergilani, the Ursentini, and the Volcentani[1658], whom
the Numestrani join. Besides these, we learn from Cato[1659] that
Thebes in Lucania has disappeared, and Theopompus informs us that there
was formerly a city of the Lucani called Pandosia[1660], at which
Alexander, the king of Epirus, died.
CHAP. 16.—THE SECOND REGION OF ITALY.
Adjoining to this district is the second region of Italy, which
embraces the Hirpini, Calabria, Apulia, and the Salentini, extending a
distance of 250 miles along the Gulf of Tarentum, which receives its
name from a town of the Laconians so called, situate at the bottom of
the Gulf, to which was annexed the maritime colony which had previously
settled there. Tarentum[1661] is distant from the promontory of
Lacinium 136 miles, and throws out the territory of Calabria opposite
to it in the form of a peninsula. The Greeks called this territory
Messapia, from their leader[1662]; before which it was called Peucetia,
from Peucetius[1663], the brother of Œnotrius, and was comprised
in the territory of Salentinum. Between the two promontories[1664]
there is a distance of 100 miles. The breadth across the peninsula
from Tarentum[1665] to Brundusium by land is 35 miles, considerably
less if measured from the port of Sasina[1666]. The towns inland from
Tarentum are Varia[1667] surnamed Apulia, Messapia, and Aletium[1668];
on the coast, Senum, and Callipolis[1669], now known as Anxa, 75 miles
from Tarentum. Thence, at a distance of 32 miles, is the Promontory
of Acra Iapygia[1670], at which point Italy projects the greatest
distance into the sea. At a distance of 19 miles from this point is the
town of Basta[1671], and then Hydruntum[1672], the spot at which the
Ionian is separated from the Adriatic sea, and from which the distance
across to Greece is the shortest. The town of the Apolloniates[1673]
lies opposite to it, and the breadth of the arm of the sea which
runs between is not more than fifty miles. Pyrrhus, king of Epirus,
was the first who entertained the notion of uniting these two points
and making a passage on foot, by throwing a bridge across, and after
him M. Varro[1674], when commanding the fleet of Pompey in the war
against the Pirates. Other cares however prevented either of them from
accomplishing this design. Passing Hydruntum, we come to the deserted
site of Soletum[1675], then Fratuertium, the Portus Tarentinus, the
haven of Miltopa, Lupia[1676], Balesium[1677], Cælia[1678], and then
Brundusium[1679], fifty miles from Hydruntum. This last place is one
of the most famous ports of Italy, and, although more distant, affords
by far the safest passage across to Greece, the place of disembarkation
being Dyrrachium, a city of Illyria; the distance across is 225 miles.
Adjoining Brundusium is the territory of the Pediculi[1680]; nine
youths and as many maidens, natives of Illyria, became the parents
of sixteen nations. The towns of the Pediculi are Rudiæ[1681],
Egnatia[1682], and Barium[1683]; their rivers are the Iapyx (so called
from the son of Dædalus, who was king there, and who gave it the name
of Iapygia), the Pactius[1684], and the Aufidus, which rises in the
Hirpinian mountains and flows past Canusium[1685].
At this point begins Apulia, surnamed the Daunian, from the Daunii,
who take their name from a former chief, the father-in-law of
Diomedes. In this territory are the towns of Salapia[1686], famous
for Hannibal’s amour with a courtezan, Sipontum[1687], Uria, the
river Cerbalus[1688], forming the boundary of the Daunii, the port
of Agasus[1689], and the Promontory of Mount Garganus[1690], distant
from the Promontory of Salentinum or Iapygia 234 miles. Making the
circuit of Garganus, we come to the port of Garna[1691], the Lake
Pantanus[1692], the river Frento, the mouth of which forms a harbour,
Teanum of the Apuli[1693], and Larinum, Cliternia[1694], and the river
Tifernus, at which the district of the Frentani[1695] begins. Thus
there were three different nations of the Apulians, [the Daunii,] the
Teani, so called from their leader, and who sprang from the Greeks, and
the Lucani, who were subdued by Calchas[1696], and whose country is now
possessed by the Atinates. Besides those already mentioned, there are,
of the Daunii, the colonies of Luceria[1697] and Venusia[1698], the
towns of Canusium[1699] and Arpi, formerly called Argos Hippium[1700]
and founded by Diomedes, afterwards called Argyrippa. Here too Diomedes
destroyed the nations of the Monadi and the Dardi, and the two cities
of Apina and Trica[1701], whose names have passed into a by-word and a
proverb.
Besides the above, there is in the interior of the second region one
colony of the Hirpini, Beneventum[1702], so called by an exchange
of a more auspicious name for its old one of Maleventum; also
the Æculani[1703], the Aquilonii[1704], the Abellinates surnamed
Protropi, the Compsani, the Caudini, the Ligures, both those called
the Corneliani and Bebiani, the Vescellani, the Æclani, the Aletrini,
the Abellinates[1705] surnamed Marsi, the Atrani, the Æcani[1706],
the Alfellani[1707], the Atinates[1708], the Arpani, the Borcani,
the Collatini, the Corinenses, the Cannenses[1709], rendered famous
by the defeat of the Romans, the Dirini, the Forentani[1710], the
Genusini[1711], the Herdonienses, the Hyrini[1712], the Larinates
surnamed Frentani[1713], the Merinates[1714] of Garganus, the
Mateolani, the Netini[1715], the Rubustini[1716], the Silvini[1717],
the Strapellini[1718], the Turmentini, the Vibinates[1719], the
Venusini, and the Ulurtini. In the interior of Calabria there are the
Ægetini, the Apamestini[1720], the Argentini, the Butuntinenses[1721],
the Deciani, the Grumbestini, the Norbanenses, the Palionenses, the
Sturnini[1722], and the Tutini: there are also the following Salentine
nations; the Aletini[1723], the Basterbini[1724], the Neretini, the
Uxentini, and the Veretini[1725].
CHAP. 17. (12.)—THE FOURTH REGION OF ITALY.
We now come to the fourth region, which includes the most valiant
probably of all the nations of Italy. Upon the coast, in the territory
of the Frentani[1726], after the river Tifernus, we find the river
Trinium[1727], with a good harbour at its mouth, the towns of
Histonium[1728], Buca[1729], and Ortona, and the river Aternus[1730].
In the interior are the Anxani surnamed Frentani, the Higher and Lower
Carentini[1731], and the Lanuenses; in the territory of the Marrucini,
the Teatini[1732]; in that of the Peligni, the Corfinienses[1733],
the Superæquani[1734], and the Sulmonenses[1735]; in that of the
Marsi, the Anxantini[1736], the Atinates[1737], the Fucentes[1738],
the Lucenses[1739], and the Marruvini[1740]; in that of the Albenses,
the town of Alba on Lake Fucinus; in that of the Æquiculani, the
Cliternini[1741], and the Carseolani[1742]; in that of the Vestini,
the Angulani[1743], the Pinnenses, and the Peltuinates, adjoining to
whom are the Aufinates[1744] Cismontani; in that of the Samnites,
who have been called Sabelli[1745], and whom the Greeks have called
Saunitæ, the colony of old Bovianum[1746], and that of the Undecumani,
the Aufidenates[1747], the Esernini[1748], the Fagifulani, the
Ficolenses[1749], the Sæpinates[1750], and the Tereventinates; in
that of the Sabini, the Amiternini[1751], the Curenses[1752], Forum
Decî[1753], Forum Novum, the Fidenates, the Interamnates[1754], the
Nursini[1755], the Nomentani[1756], the Reatini[1757], the Trebulani,
both those called Mutusci[1758] and those called Suffenates[1759], the
Tiburtes, and the Tarinates.
In these districts, the Comini[1760], the Tadiates, the Cædici, and
the Alfaterni, tribes of the Æquiculi, have disappeared. From Gellianus
we learn that Archippe[1761], a town of the Marsi, built by Marsyas, a
chieftain of the Lydians, has been swallowed up by Lake Fucinus, and
Valerianus informs us that the town of the Viticini in Picenum was
destroyed by the Romans. The Sabini (called, according to some writers,
from their attention to religious[1762] observances and the worship
of the gods, Sevini) dwell on the dew-clad hills in the vicinity of
the Lakes of the Velinus[1763]. The Nar, with its sulphureous waters,
exhausts these lakes, and, descending from Mount Fiscellus[1764],
unites with them near the groves of Vacuna[1765] and Reate, and
then directs its course towards the Tiber, into which it discharges
itself. Again, in another direction, the Anio[1766], taking its rise
in the mountain of the Trebani, carries into the Tiber the waters of
three lakes remarkable for their picturesque beauty, and to which
Sublaqueum[1767] is indebted for its name. In the territory of Reate
is the Lake of Cutiliæ[1768], in which there is a floating island, and
which, according to M. Varro, is the navel or central point of Italy.
Below the Sabine territory lies that of Latium, on one side Picenum,
and behind it Umbria, while the range of the Apennines flanks it on
either side.
CHAP. 18. (13.)—THE FIFTH REGION OF ITALY.
The fifth region is that of Picenum, once remarkable for the denseness
of its population; 360,000 Picentines took the oaths of fidelity to
the Roman people. They are descended from the Sabines, who had made
a vow to celebrate a holy spring[1769]. Their territory commenced at
the river Aternus[1770], where the present district and colony of
Adria[1771] is, at a distance of six miles from the sea. Here we find
the river Vomanus, the territories of Prætutia and Palma[1772], Castrum
Novum[1773], the river Batinus; Truentum[1774], with its river of
the same name, which place is the only remnant of the Liburni[1775]
in Italy; the river Albula[1776]; Tervium, at which the Prætutian
district ends, and that of Picenum begins; the town of Cupra[1777],
Castellum Firmanorum[1778], and above it the colony of Asculum[1779],
the most illustrious in Picenum; in the interior there is the town of
Novana[1780]. Upon the coast we have Cluana[1781], Potentia, Numana,
founded by the Siculi, and Ancona[1782], a colony founded by the same
people on the Promontory of Cumerus, forming an elbow of the coast,
where it begins to bend inwards, and distant from Garganus 183 miles.
In the interior are the Auximates[1783], the Beregrani[1784], the
Cingulani, the Cuprenses surnamed Montani[1785], the Falarienses[1786],
the Pausulani, the Planinenses, the Ricinenses, the Septempedani[1787],
the Tollentinates, the Treienses, and the Pollentini of Urbs
Salvia[1788].
CHAP. 19. (14.)—THE SIXTH REGION OF ITALY.
Adjoining to this is the sixth region, which includes Umbria and the
Gallic territory in the vicinity of Ariminum. At Ancona begins the
coast of that part of Gaul known as Gallia Togata[1789]. The Siculi
and the Liburni possessed the greater part of this district, and more
particularly the territories of Palma, of Prætutia, and of Adria. These
were expelled by the Umbri, these again by the Etrurians, and these in
their turn by the Gauls. The Umbri are thought to have been the most
ancient race in Italy, it being supposed that they were called “Ombrii”
by the Greeks, from the fact of their having survived the rains[1790]
which had inundated the earth. We read that 300 of their towns were
conquered by the Tusci; at the present day we find on their coast the
river Æsis[1791], Senogallia[1792], the river Metaurus, the colonies of
Fanum Fortunæ[1793] and Pisaurum[1794], with a river of the same name;
and, in the interior, those of Hispellum[1795] and Tuder.
Besides the above, there are the Amerini[1796], the Attidiates[1797],
the Asisinates[1798], the Arnates[1799], the Æsinates[1800], the
Camertes[1801], the Casuentillani, the Carsulani[1802], the Dolates
surnamed Salentini, the Fulginiates[1803], the Foroflaminienses[1804],
the Forojulienses surnamed Concupienses, the Forobrentani, the
Forosempronienses[1805], the Iguvini[1806], the Interamnates surnamed
Nartes, the Mevanates[1807], the Mevanionenses, the Matilicates[1808],
the Narnienses[1809], whose town used formerly to be called Nequinum;
the Nucerini[1810], both those surnamed Favonienses and those called
Camellani; the Ocriculani[1811], the Ostrani[1812], the Pitulani,
both those surnamed Pisuertes and the others called Mergentini;
the Plestini[1813], the Sentinates[1814], the Sarsinates[1815],
the Spoletini[1816], the Suasini[1817], the Sestinates[1818], the
Suillates[1819], the Tadinates[1820], the Trebiates[1821], the
Tuficani[1822], the Tifernates[1823] surnamed Tiberini, and the
others called Metaurenses, the Vesinicates, the Urbinates, both those
surnamed Metaurenses[1824] and the others called Hortenses, the
Vettonenses[1825], the Vindinates, and the Viventani. In this district
there exist no longer the Feliginates who possessed Clusiolum above
Interamna, and the Sarranates, with their towns of Acerræ[1826],
surnamed Vafriæ, and Turocelum, also called Vettiolum; as also the
Solinates, the Curiates, the Fallienates, and the Apiennates. The
Arienates also have disappeared with the town of Crinovolum, as well as
the Usidicani, the Plangenses, the Pæsinates, and the Cælestini. Cato
writes that Ameria above-mentioned was founded 964 years before the war
with Perseus.
CHAP. 20. (15.)—THE EIGHTH REGION OF ITALY; THE PADUS.
The eighth region is bounded by Ariminum, the Padus, and the Apennines.
Upon the coast we have the river Crustumium[1827], and the colony
of Ariminum[1828], with the rivers Ariminus and Aprusa. Next comes
the river Rubico[1829], once the boundary of Italy, and after it the
Sapis[1830], the Vitis, and the Anemo, and then, Ravenna, a town of
the Sabines[1831], with the river Bedesis, 105 miles from Ancona;
and, not far from the sea, Butrium[1832], a town of the Umbri. In
the interior there are the colonies of Bononia[1833], formerly
called Felsina, when it was the chief place of Etruria[1834],
Brixillum[1835], Mutina[1836], Parma[1837], and Placentia[1838]. There
are also the towns of Cæsena[1839], Claterna, Forum Clodî[1840],
Forum Livî, Forum Popilî, Forum Truentinorum[1841], Forum Cornelî,
Forum Licinî, the Faventini[1842], the Fidentini[1843], the Otesini,
the Padinates[1844], the Regienses[1845], who take their name from
Lepidus, the Solonates[1846], the Saltus Galliani[1847], surnamed
Aquinates, the Tannetani[1848], the Veliates[1849], who were anciently
surnamed Regiates, and the Urbanates[1850]. In this district the
Boii[1851] have disappeared, of whom there were 112 tribes according to
Cato; as also the Senones, who captured Rome.
(16.) The Padus[1852] descends from the bosom of Mount Vesulus, one of
the most elevated points of the chain of the Alps, in the territories
of the Ligurian Vagienni[1853], and rises at its source in a manner
that well merits an inspection by the curious; after which it hides
itself in a subterranean channel until it rises again in the country of
the Forovibienses. It is inferior in fame to none whatever among the
rivers, being known to the Greeks as the Eridanus and famous as the
scene of the punishment of Phaëton[1854]. At the rising of the Dog-star
it is swollen by the melted snows; but, though it proves more furious
in its course to the adjoining fields than to the vessels that are
upon it, still it takes care to carry away no portion of its banks,
and when it recedes, renders them additionally fertile. Its length
from its source is 300 miles, to which we must add eighty-eight for
its sinuosities; and it receives from the Apennines and Alps not only
several navigable rivers, but immense lakes as well, which discharge
themselves into its waters, thus conveying altogether as many as thirty
streams into the Adriatic Sea.
Of these the best known are the following—flowing from the range of
the Apennines, the Jactus, the Tanarus[1855], the Trebia which passes
Placentia, the Tarus, the Incia, the Gabellus, the Scultenna, and the
Rhenus: from the chain of the Alps, the Stura[1856], the Orgus, the two
Duriæ, the Sessites, the Ticinus, the Lambrus, the Addua, the Ollius,
and the Mincius. There is no river known to receive a larger increase
than this in so short a space; so much so indeed that it is impelled
onwards by this vast body of water, and, invading the land[1857], forms
deep channels in its course: hence it is that, although a portion
of its stream is drawn off by rivers and canals between Ravenna
and Altinum, for a space of 120 miles, still, at the spot where it
discharges the vast body of its waters, it is said to form seven seas.
By the Augustan Canal the Padus is carried to Ravenna, at which place
it is called the Padusa[1858], having formerly borne the name of
Messanicus. The nearest mouth to this spot forms the extensive port
known as that of Vatrenus, where Claudius Cæsar[1859], on his triumph
over the Britons, entered the Adriatic in a vessel that deserved rather
the name of a vast palace than a ship. This mouth, which was formerly
called by some the Eridanian, has been by others styled the Spinetic
mouth, from the city of Spina, a very powerful place which formerly
stood in the vicinity, if we may form a conclusion from the amount of
its treasure deposited at Delphi; it was founded by Diomedes. At this
spot the river Vatrenus[1860], which flows from the territory of Forum
Cornelî, swells the waters of the Padus.
The next mouth to this is that of Caprasia[1861], then that of Sagis,
and then Volane, formerly called Olane; all of which are situate upon
the Flavian Canal[1862], which the Tuscans formerly made from Sagis,
thus drawing the impetuous stream of the river across into the marshes
of the Atriani, which they call the Seven Seas; and upon which is the
noble port of Atria[1863], a city of the Tuscans, from which place the
sea was formerly called the Atriatic, though now the Adriatic.
We next come to the overflowing mouths of Carbonaria, and the Fosses
of Philistina[1864], by some called Tartarus[1865], all of which
originate in the overflow of the waters in the Philistinian Canal,
swollen by the streams of the Atesis, descending from the Tridentine
Alps, and of the Togisonus[1866], flowing from the territory of
the Patavini. A portion of them also forms the adjoining port of
Brundulum[1867], in the same manner as Edron[1868] is formed by the
two rivers Meduacus and the Clodian Canal. With the waters of these
streams the Padus unites, and with them discharges itself into the
sea, forming, according to most writers, between the Alps and the
sea-shore a triangular figure, 2000 stadia in circumference, not unlike
the Delta formed by the Nile in Egypt. I feel somewhat ashamed to
have to borrow from the Greeks any statement in reference to Italy;
Metrodorus of Scepsos, however, informs us that this river has obtained
its name of Padus from the fact, that about its source there are
great numbers of pine-trees, which in the Gallic language are called
“padi.” In the tongue of the Ligurians this river is called “Bodincus,”
which signifies “the bottomless.” This derivation is in some measure
supported by the fact that near this river there is the town of
Industria[1869], of which the ancient name was Bodincomagum, and where
the river begins to be of greater depth than in other parts.
CHAP. 21. (17.)—THE ELEVENTH REGION OF ITALY; ITALIA TRANSPADANA.
From the river Padus the eleventh region receives its name of
Transpadana; to which, situate as it is wholly in the interior, the
river, by its bounteous channel, conveys the gifts of all the seas.
The towns are Vibî Forum[1870] and Segusio; and, at the foot of the
Alps, the colony of Augusta Taurinorum[1871], at which place the Padus
becomes navigable, and which was founded by the ancient race of the
Ligurians, and of Augusta Prætoria[1872] of the Salassi, near the two
passes of the Alps, the Grecian[1873] and the Penine (by the latter
it is said that the Carthaginians passed into Italy, by the Grecian,
Hercules)—the town of Eporedia[1874], the foundation of which by the
Roman people was enjoined by the Sibylline books; the Gauls call
tamers of horses by the name of “Eporediæ”—Vercellæ[1875], the town of
the Libici, derived its origin from the Salluvii, and Novaria[1876],
founded by the Vertacomacori, is at the present day a district of the
Vocontii, and not, as Cato supposes, of the Ligurians; of whom two
nations, called the Lævi and the Marici, founded Ticinum[1877], not far
from the Padus, as the Boii, descended from the Transalpine nations,
have founded Laus Pompeia[1878] and the Insubres Mediolanum[1879].
From Cato we also learn that Comum, Bergomum[1880], and
Licinîforum[1881], and some other peoples in the vicinity, originated
with the Orobii, but he admits that he is ignorant as to the origin
of that nation. Cornelius Alexander however informs us that they came
from Greece, interpreting their name as meaning “those who live upon
the mountains[1882].” In this district, Parra has disappeared, a town
of the Orobii, from whom, according to Cato, the people of Bergomum are
descended; its site even yet shows that it was situate in a position
more elevated than fruitful[1883]. The Caturiges have also perished, an
exiled race of the Insubres, as also Spina previously mentioned; Melpum
too, a place distinguished for its opulence, which, as we are informed
by Cornelius Nepos, was destroyed by the Insubres, the Boii, and the
Senones, on the very day on which Camillus took Veii.
CHAP. 22. (18.)—THE TENTH REGION OF ITALY.
We now come to the tenth region of Italy, situate on the Adriatic Sea.
In this district are Venetia[1884], the river Silis[1885], rising
in the Tarvisanian[1886] mountains, the town of Altinum[1887], the
river Liquentia rising in the mountains of Opitergium[1888], and a
port with the same name, the colony of Concordia[1889]; the rivers and
harbours of Romatinum[1890], the greater and less Tiliaventum[1891],
the Anaxum[1892], into which the Varamus flows, the Alsa[1893], and the
Natiso with the Turrus, which flow past the colony of Aquileia[1894]
at a distance of fifteen miles from the sea. This is the country of
the Carni[1895], and adjoining to it is that of the Iapydes, the
river Timavus[1896], the fortress of Pucinum[1897], famous for its
wines, the Gulf of Tergeste[1898], and the colony of that name,
thirty-three miles from Aquileia. Six miles beyond this place lies
the river Formio[1899], 189 miles distant from Ravenna, the ancient
boundary[1900] of enlarged Italy, and now the frontier of Istria. That
this region takes its name from the river Ister which flows from the
Danube, also called the Ister, into the Adriatic opposite the mouth of
the Padus, and that the sea which lies between them is rendered fresh
by their waters running from opposite directions, has been erroneously
asserted by many, and among them by Nepos even, who dwelt upon the
banks of the Padus. For it is the fact that no river which runs from
the Danube discharges itself into the Adriatic. They have been misled,
I think, by the circumstance that the ship Argo came down some river
into the Adriatic sea, not far from Tergeste; but what river that was
is now unknown. The most careful writers say that the ship was carried
across the Alps on men’s shoulders, having passed along the Ister,
then along the Savus, and so from Nauportus[1901], which place, lying
between Æmona[1902] and the Alps, from that circumstance derives its
name.
CHAP. 23. (19.)—ISTRIA, ITS PEOPLE AND LOCALITY.
Istria projects in the form of a peninsula. Some writers have stated
its length to be forty miles, and its circumference 125; and the same
as to Liburnia which adjoins it, and the Flanatic Gulf[1903], while
others make it 225[1904]; others again make the circumference of
Liburnia 180 miles. Some persons too extend Iapydia, at the back of
Istria, as far as the Flanatic Gulf, a distance of 130 miles, thus
making Liburnia but 150 miles. Tuditanus[1905], who subdued the Istri,
had this inscription on his statue which was erected there: “From
Aquileia to the river Titus is a distance of 1000 stadia.”
The towns of Istria with the rights of Roman citizens are Ægida[1906],
Parentium, and the colony of Pola[1907], now Pietas Julia, formerly
founded by the Colchians, and distant from Tergeste 100 miles:
after which we come to the town of Nesactium[1908], and the river
Arsia, now[1909] the boundary of Italy. The distance across from
Ancona to Pola is 120 miles. In the interior of the tenth region
are the colonies of Cremona, Brixia in the territory of the
Cenomanni[1910], Ateste[1911] belonging to the Veneti, and the towns
of Acelum[1912], Patavium[1913], Opitergium, Belunum[1914], and
Vicetia; with Mantua[1915], the only city of the Tuscans now left
beyond the Padus. Cato informs us that the Veneti are descendants
of the Trojans[1916], and that the Cenomanni[1917] dwelt among
the Volcæ in the vicinity of Massilia. There are also the towns
of the Fertini[1918], the Tridentini[1919], and the Beruenses,
belonging to the Rhæti, Verona[1920], belonging to the Rhæti and
the Euganei, and Julienses[1921] to the Carni. We then have the
following peoples, whom there is no necessity to particularize
with any degree of exactness, the Alutrenses, the Asseriates, the
Flamonienses[1922] with those surnamed Vanienses, and the others called
Culici, the Forojulienses[1923] surnamed Transpadani, the Foretani,
the Nedinates[1924], the Quarqueni[1925], the Taurisani[1926],
the Togienses, and the Varvari. In this district there have
disappeared—upon the coast—Iramene, Pellaon, and Palsatium, Atina and
Cælina belonging to the Veneti, Segeste and Ocra to the Carni, and
Noreia to the Taurisci. L. Piso also informs us that although the
senate disapproved of his so doing, M. Claudius Marcellus[1927] razed
to the ground a tower situate at the twelfth mile-stone from Aquileia.
In this region also and the eleventh there are some celebrated
lakes[1928], and several rivers that either take their rise in them or
else are fed by their waters, in those cases in which they again emerge
from them. These are the Addua[1929], fed by the Lake Larius, the
Ticinus by Lake Verbannus, the Mincius by Lake Benacus, the Ollius by
Lake Sebinnus, and the Lambrus by Lake Eupilis—all of them flowing into
the Padus.
Cælius states that the length of the Alps from the Upper Sea to the
Lower is 1000 miles, a distance which Timagenes shortens by twenty-two.
Cornelius Nepos assigns to them a breadth of 100 miles, and T. Livius
of 3000 stadia; but then in different places. For in some localities
they exceed 100 miles; where they divide Germany, for instance, from
Italy; while in other parts they do not reach seventy, being thus
narrowed by the providential dispensation of nature as it were. The
breadth of Italy, taken from the river Var at the foot of these
mountains, and passing along by the Vada[1930] Sabatia, the Taurini,
Comum, Brixia, Verona, Vicetia, Opitergium, Aquileia, Tergeste, Pola,
and Arsia, is 745 miles.
CHAP. 24. (20.)—THE ALPS, AND THE ALPINE NATIONS.
Many nations dwell among the Alps; but the more remarkable, between
Pola and the district of Tergeste, are the Secusses, the Subocrini, the
Catali, the Menocaleni, and near the Carni the people formerly called
the Taurisci, but now the Norici. Adjoining to these are the Rhæti and
the Vindelici, who are all divided into a multitude of states. It is
supposed that the Rhæti are the descendants of the Tuscans, who were
expelled by the Gauls and migrated hither under the command of their
chief, whose name was Rhætus. Turning then to the side of the Alps
which fronts Italy, we have the Euganean[1931] nations enjoying Latin
rights, and of whom Cato enumerates thirty-four towns. Among these are
the Triumpilini, a people who were sold[1932] with their territory;
and then the Camuni, and several similar tribes, each of them in the
jurisdiction of its neighbouring municipal town. The same author also
considers the Lepontii[1933] and the Salassi to be of Tauriscan
origin, but most other writers, giving a Greek[1934] interpretation to
their name, consider the Lepontii to have been those of the followers
of Hercules who were left behind in consequence of their limbs being
frozen by the snow of the Alps. They are also of opinion that the
inhabitants of the Grecian Alps are descended from a portion of the
Greeks of his army, and that the Euganeans, being sprung from an origin
so illustrious, thence took their name[1935]. The head of these are the
Stœni[1936]. The Vennonenses[1937] and the Sarunetes[1938], peoples
of the Rhæti, dwell about the sources of the river Rhenus, while the
tribe of the Lepontii, known as the Uberi, dwell in the vicinity of the
sources of the Rhodanus, in the same district of the Alps. There are
also other native tribes here, who have received Latin rights, such
as the Octodurenses[1939], and their neighbours the Centrones[1940],
the Cottian[1941] states, the Ligurian Vagienni, descended from the
Caturiges[1942], as also those called Montani[1943]; besides numerous
nations of the Capillati[1944], on the confines of the Ligurian Sea.
It may not be inappropriate in this place to subjoin the inscription
now to be seen upon the trophy[1945] erected on the Alps, which is
to the following effect:—“TO THE EMPEROR CÆSAR—THE SON[1946] OF
CÆSAR NOW DEIFIED, AUGUSTUS, PONTIFEX MAXIMUS, AND EMPEROR FOURTEEN
YEARS, IN THE SEVENTEENTH[1947] YEAR OF HIS HOLDING THE TRIBUNITIAL
AUTHORITY, THE SENATE AND THE ROMAN PEOPLE, IN REMEMBRANCE THAT UNDER
HIS COMMAND AND AUSPICES ALL THE ALPINE NATIONS WHICH EXTENDED FROM
THE UPPER SEA TO THE LOWER WERE REDUCED TO SUBJECTION BY THE ROMAN
PEOPLE—THE ALPINE NATIONS SO SUBDUED WERE: THE TRIUMPILINI, THE
CAMUNI, THE VENOSTES[1948], THE VENNONENSES, THE ISARCI, THE BREUNI,
THE GENAUNES[1949], THE FOCUNATES, FOUR NATIONS OF THE VINDELICI,
THE CONSUANETES, THE RUCINATES, THE LICATES[1950], THE CATENATES,
THE AMBISONTES, THE RUGUSCI, THE SUANETES[1951], THE CALUCONES, THE
BRIXENTES, THE LEPONTII, THE UBERI, THE NANTUATES, THE SEDUNI, THE
VARAGRI, THE SALASSI, THE ACITAVONES, THE MEDULLI, THE UCENI[1952],
THE CATURIGES, THE BRIGIANI, THE SOGIONTII, THE BRODIONTII, THE
NEMALONI, THE EDENATES[1953], THE ESUBIANI, THE VEAMINI, THE GALLITÆ,
THE TRIULATTI, THE ECDINI, THE VERGUNNI, THE EGUITURI[1954], THE
NEMENTURI, THE ORATELLI, THE NERUSI, THE VELAUNI, AND THE SUETRI.”
The twelve states of the Cottiani[1955] were not included in the list,
as they had shown no hostility, nor yet those which had been placed by
the Pompeian law under the jurisdiction of the municipal towns.
Such then is Italy, sacred to the gods, such are the nations, such the
cities of her peoples; to which we may add, that this is that same
Italy, which, when L. Æmilius Paulus[1956] and C. Attilius Regulus
were Consuls, on hearing of the rising in Gaul, unaided, and without
any foreign assistance whatever, without the help even of that portion
which lies beyond the Padus, armed 80,000 horse and 700,000 foot. In
abundance of metals of every kind Italy yields to no land whatever; but
all search for them has been prohibited by an ancient decree of the
Senate, who gave orders thereby that Italy shall be exempted[1957] from
such treatment.
CHAP. 25. (21.)—LIBURNIA AND ILLYRICUM.
The nation of the Liburni adjoins the river Arsia[1958], and extends
as far as the river Titus. The Mentores, the Hymani[1959], the
Encheleæ, the Buni, and the people whom Callimachus calls the Peucetiæ,
formerly formed part of it; but now the whole in general are comprised
under the one name of Illyricum. But few of the names of these nations
are worthy of mention, or indeed very easy of pronunciation. To the
jurisdiction of Scardona[1960] resort the Iapydes and fourteen cities
of the Liburni, of which it may not prove tedious if I mention the
Lacinienses, the Stlupini, the Burnistæ, and the Olbonenses. Belonging
to the same jurisdiction there are, in the enjoyment of Italian rights,
the Alutæ[1961], the Flanates[1962], from whom the Gulf takes its name,
the Lopsi, and the Varvarini; the Assesiates, who are exempt from
tribute; and upon the islands, the Fertinates and the Curictæ[1963].
Besides these, there are on the coast, after leaving Nesactium,
Alvona[1964], Flanona, Tarsatica, Senia, Lopsica, Ortopula, Vegium,
Argyruntum, Corinium[1965], Ænona, the city of Pasinum, and the river
Tedanius, at which Iapydia terminates. The islands of this Gulf, with
their towns, besides those above mentioned, are Absyrtium[1966],
Arba[1967], Crexa, Gissa, and Portunata. Again, on the mainland there
is the colony of Iadera[1968], distant from Pola 160 miles; then,
at a distance of thirty miles, the island of Colentum[1969], and of
eighteen, the mouth of the river Titus.
CHAP. 26. (22.)—DALMATIA.
Scardona, situate upon the river[1970], at a distance of twelve
miles from the sea, forms the boundary of Liburnia and the beginning
of Dalmatia. Next to this place comes the ancient country of
the Autariatares and the fortress of Tariona, the Promontory of
Diomedes[1971], or, as others call it, the peninsula of Hyllis, 100
miles[1972] in circuit. Then comes Tragurium, a place with the rights
of Roman citizens, and celebrated for its marble, Sicum, a place to
which Claudius, the emperor lately deified, sent a colony of his
veterans, and Salona[1973], a colony, situate 112 miles from Iadera.
To this place resort for legal purposes, having the laws dispensed
according to their divisions into decuries or tithings, the Dalmatæ,
forming 342 decuries, the Deurici 22, the Ditiones 239, the Mazæi 269,
and the Sardiates 52. In this region are Burnum[1974], Andetrium[1975],
and Tribulium, fortresses ennobled by the battles of the Roman people.
To the same jurisdiction also belong the Issæi[1976], the Colentini,
the Separi, and the Epetini, nations inhabiting the islands. After
these come the fortresses of Peguntium[1977] and of Rataneum, with the
colony of Narona[1978], the seat of the third jurisdiction, distant
from Salona eighty-two miles, and situate upon a river of the same
name, at a distance of twenty miles from the sea. M. Varro states that
eighty-nine states used to resort thither, but now nearly the only ones
that are known are the Cerauni[1979] with 24 decuries, the Daorizi with
17, the Dæsitiates with 103, the Docleatæ with 33, the Deretini with
14, the Deremistæ with 30, the Dindari with 33, the Glinditiones with
44, the Melcomani with 24, the Naresii with 102, the Scirtarii with
72, the Siculotæ with 24, and the Vardæi, once the scourges of Italy,
with no more than 20 decuries. In addition to these, this district
was possessed by the Ozuæi, the Partheni, the Hemasini, the Arthitæ,
and the Armistæ. The colony of Epidaurum[1980] is distant from the
river Naron 100 miles. After Epidaurum come the following towns, with
the rights of Roman citizens:—Rhizinium[1981], Acruvium[1982], Butua,
Olcinium, formerly called Colchinium, having been founded by the
Colchians; the river Drilo[1983], and, upon it, Scodra[1984], a town
with the rights of Roman citizens, situate at a distance of eighteen
miles from the sea; besides in former times many Greek towns and once
powerful states, of which all remembrance is fast fading away. For in
this region there were formerly the Labeatæ, the Enderini[1985], the
Sasæi, the Grabæi[1986], properly called Illyrii, the Taulantii[1987],
and the Pyræi. The Promontory of Nymphæum on the sea-coast still
retains its name[1988]; and there is Lissum, a town enjoying the rights
of Roman citizens, at a distance from Epidaurum of 100 miles.
(23.) At Lissum begins the province of Macedonia[1989], the nations
of the Parthini[1990], and behind them the Dassaretæ[1991]. The
mountains of Candavia[1992] are seventy-eight miles from Dyrrhachium.
On the coast lies Denda, a town with the rights of Roman citizens,
the colony of Epidamnum[1993], which, on account of its inauspicious
name, was by the Romans called Dyrrhachium, the river Aöus[1994],
by some called Æas, and Apollonia[1995], formerly a colony of the
Corinthians, at a distance of four miles from the sea, in the
vicinity of which the celebrated Nymphæum[1996] is inhabited by the
barbarous Amantes[1997] and Buliones. Upon the coast too is the town
of Oricum[1998], founded by the Colchians. At this spot begins Epirus,
with the Acroceraunian[1999] mountains, by which we have previously
mentioned[2000] this Gulf of Europe as bounded. Oricum is distant from
the Promontory of Salentinum in Italy eighty[2001] miles.
CHAP. 27. (24.)—THE NORICI.
In the rear of the Carni and the Iapydes, along the course of the great
river Ister[2002], the Rhæti touch upon the Norici[2003]: their towns
are Virunum[2004], Celeia, Teurnia, Aguntum[2005], Vianiomina[2006],
Claudia[2007], and Flavium Solvense[2008]. Adjoining to the Norici is
Lake Peiso[2009], and the deserts of the Boii[2010]; they are however
now inhabited by the people of Sabaria[2011], a colony of the now
deified emperor Claudius, and the town of Scarabantia Julia[2012].
CHAP. 28. (25.)—PANNONIA.
Next to them comes acorn-bearing Pannonia[2013], along which the
chain of the Alps, gradually lessening as it runs through the middle
of Illyricum from north to south, forms a gentle slope on the right
hand and the left. The portion which looks towards the Adriatic Sea
is called Dalmatia and Illyricum, above mentioned, while Pannonia
stretches away towards the north, and has the Danube for its extreme
boundary. In it are the colonies of Æmona[2014] and Siscia. The
following rivers, both known to fame and adapted for commerce, flow
into the Danube; the Draus[2015], which rushes from Noricum with great
impetuosity, and the Savus[2016], which flows with a more gentle
current from the Carnic Alps, there being a space between them of 120
miles. The Draus runs through the Serretes, the Serrapilli[2017],
the Iasi, and the Andizetes; the Savus through the Colapiani[2018]
and the Breuci; these are the principal peoples. Besides them there
are the Arivates, the Azali, the Amantini, the Belgites, the Catari,
the Cornacates, the Eravisci, the Hercuniates[2019], the Latovici,
the Oseriates, the Varciani, and, in front of Mount Claudius, the
Scordisci, behind it the Taurisci. In the Savus there is the island of
Metubarris[2020], the greatest of all the islands formed by rivers.
Besides the above, there are these other rivers worthy of mention:—the
Colapis[2021], which flows into the Savus near Siscia, where, dividing
its channel, it forms the island which is called Segestica[2022]; and
the river Bacuntius[2023], which flows into the Savus at the town of
Sirmium, where we find the state of the Sirmienses and the Amantini.
Forty-five miles thence is Taurunum[2024], where the Savus flows into
the Danube; above which spot the Valdanus[2025] and the Urpanus,
themselves far from ignoble rivers, join that stream.
CHAP. 29. (26.)—MŒSIA.
Joining up to Pannonia is the province called Mœsia[2026], which runs,
with the course of the Danube, as far as the Euxine. It commences at
the confluence[2027] previously mentioned. In it are the Dardani, the
Celegeri, the Triballi, the Timachi, the Mœsi, the Thracians, and the
Scythians who border on the Euxine. The more famous among its rivers
are the Margis[2028], which rises in the territory of the Dardani, the
Pingus, the Timachus, the Œscus which rises in Mount Rhodope, and,
rising in Mount Hæmus, the Utus[2029], the Asamus, and the Ieterus.
The breadth of Illyricum[2030] at its widest part is 325 miles, and its
length from the river Arsia to the river Drinius 530; from the Drinius
to the Promontory of Acroceraunia Agrippa states to be 175 miles, and
he says that the entire circuit of the Italian and Illyrian Gulf is
1700 miles. In this Gulf, according to the limits which we have drawn,
are two seas, the Ionian[2031] in the first part, and the Adriatic,
which runs more inland and is called the Upper Sea.
CHAP. 30.—ISLANDS OF THE IONIAN SEA AND THE ADRIATIC.
In the Ausonian Sea there are no islands worthy of notice beyond those
which we have already mentioned, and only a few in the Ionian; those,
for instance, upon the Calabrian coast, opposite Brundusium, by the
projection of which a harbour is formed; and, over against the Apulian
coast, Diomedia[2032], remarkable for the monument of Diomedes, and
another island called by the same name, but by some Teutria.
The coast of Illyricum is clustered with more than 1000 islands,
the sea being of a shoaly nature, and numerous creeks and æstuaries
running with their narrow channels between portions of the land. The
more famous are those before the mouths of the Timavus, with warm
springs[2033] that rise with the tides of the sea, the island of
Cissa near the territory of the Istri, and the Pullaria[2034] and
Absyrtides[2035], so called by the Greeks from the circumstance of
Absyrtus, the brother of Medea, having been slain there. Some islands
near them have been called the Electrides[2036], upon which amber,
which they call “electrum,” was said to be found; a most assured
instance however of that untruthfulness[2037] which is generally
ascribed to the Greeks, seeing that it has never yet been ascertained
which of the islands were meant by them under that name. Opposite to
the Iader is Lissa, and other islands whose names have been already
mentioned[2038]. Opposite to the Liburni are some islands called the
Crateæ, and no smaller number styled Liburnicæ and Celadussæ[2039].
Opposite to Surium is Bavo, and Brattia[2040], famous for its goats,
Issa with the rights of Roman citizens, and Pharia with a town. At a
distance of twenty-five miles from Issa is Corcyra[2041], surnamed
Melæna, with a town founded by the Cnidians; between which and
Illyricum is Melite[2042], from which, as we learn from Callimachus, a
certain kind of little dogs were called Melitæi; fifteen miles from it
we find the seven Elaphites[2043]. In the Ionian Sea, at a distance of
twelve miles from Oricum, is Sasonis[2044], notorious from having been
a harbour of pirates.
* * * * *
SUMMARY.—The towns and nations mentioned are in number * * * *[2045].
The rivers of note are in number * * * *. The mountains of note are in
number * * * *. The islands are in number * * * *. The towns or nations
which have disappeared are in number * * * *. The facts, statements,
and observations are in number 326.
ROMAN AUTHORS QUOTED.—Turannius Gracilis[2046], Cornelius Nepos[2047],
T. Livius[2048], Cato the Censor[2049], M. Agrippa[2050], M.
Varro[2051], the Emperor Augustus[2052] now deified, Varro
Atacinus[2053], Antias[2054], Hyginus[2055], L. Vetus[2056], Pomponius
Mela[2057], Curio[2058] the Elder, Cælius[2059], Arruntius[2060],
Sebosus[2061], Licinius Mucianus[2062], Fabricius Tuscus[2063], L.
Ateius[2064], Capito[2065], Verrius Flaccus[2066], L. Piso[2067],
Gellianus[2068], and Valerianus[2069].
FOREIGN AUTHORS QUOTED.—Artemidorus[2070], Alexander Polyhistor[2071],
Thucydides[2072], Theophrastus[2073], Isidorus[2074], Theopompus[2075],
Metrodorus of Scepsis[2076], Callicrates[2077], Xenophon of
Lampsacus[2078], Diodorus of Syracuse[2079], Nymphodorus[2080],
Calliphanes[2081], and Timagenes[2082].
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