Life on the Mississippi by Mark Twain

Chapter 112

1336 words  |  Chapter 112

Enchantments and Enchanters THE largest annual event in New Orleans is a something which we arrived too late to sample--the Mardi-Gras festivities. I saw the procession of the Mystic Crew of Comus there, twenty-four years ago--with knights and nobles and so on, clothed in silken and golden Paris-made gorgeousnesses, planned and bought for that single night's use; and in their train all manner of giants, dwarfs, monstrosities, and other diverting grotesquerie--a startling and wonderful sort of show, as it filed solemnly and silently down the street in the light of its smoking and flickering torches; but it is said that in these latter days the spectacle is mightily augmented, as to cost, splendor, and variety. There is a chief personage--'Rex;' and if I remember rightly, neither this king nor any of his great following of subordinates is known to any outsider. All these people are gentlemen of position and consequence; and it is a proud thing to belong to the organization; so the mystery in which they hide their personality is merely for romance's sake, and not on account of the police. Mardi-Gras is of course a relic of the French and Spanish occupation; but I judge that the religious feature has been pretty well knocked out of it now. Sir Walter has got the advantage of the gentlemen of the cowl and rosary, and he will stay. His medieval business, supplemented by the monsters and the oddities, and the pleasant creatures from fairy-land, is finer to look at than the poor fantastic inventions and performances of the reveling rabble of the priest's day, and serves quite as well, perhaps, to emphasize the day and admonish men that the grace-line between the worldly season and the holy one is reached. This Mardi-Gras pageant was the exclusive possession of New Orleans until recently. But now it has spread to Memphis and St. Louis and Baltimore. It has probably reached its limit. It is a thing which could hardly exist in the practical North; would certainly last but a very brief time; as brief a time as it would last in London. For the soul of it is the romantic, not the funny and the grotesque. Take away the romantic mysteries, the kings and knights and big-sounding titles, and Mardi-Gras would die, down there in the South. The very feature that keeps it alive in the South--girly-girly romance--would kill it in the North or in London. Puck and Punch, and the press universal, would fall upon it and make merciless fun of it, and its first exhibition would be also its last. Against the crimes of the French Revolution and of Bonaparte may be set two compensating benefactions: the Revolution broke the chains of the _ancien regime_ and of the Church, and made of a nation of abject slaves a nation of freemen; and Bonaparte instituted the setting of merit above birth, and also so completely stripped the divinity from royalty, that whereas crowned heads in Europe were gods before, they are only men, since, and can never be gods again, but only figureheads, and answerable for their acts like common clay. Such benefactions as these compensate the temporary harm which Bonaparte and the Revolution did, and leave the world in debt to them for these great and permanent services to liberty, humanity, and progress. Then comes Sir Walter Scott with his enchantments, and by his single might checks this wave of progress, and even turns it back; sets the world in love with dreams and phantoms; with decayed and swinish forms of religion; with decayed and degraded systems of government; with the sillinesses and emptinesses, sham grandeurs, sham gauds, and sham chivalries of a brainless and worthless long-vanished society. He did measureless harm; more real and lasting harm, perhaps, than any other individual that ever wrote. Most of the world has now outlived good part of these harms, though by no means all of them; but in our South they flourish pretty forcefully still. Not so forcefully as half a generation ago, perhaps, but still forcefully. There, the genuine and wholesome civilization of the nineteenth century is curiously confused and commingled with the Walter Scott Middle-Age sham civilization; and so you have practical, common-sense, progressive ideas, and progressive works; mixed up with the duel, the inflated speech, and the jejune romanticism of an absurd past that is dead, and out of charity ought to be buried. But for the Sir Walter disease, the character of the Southerner--or Southron, according to Sir Walter's starchier way of phrasing it--would be wholly modern, in place of modern and medieval mixed, and the South would be fully a generation further advanced than it is. It was Sir Walter that made every gentleman in the South a Major or a Colonel, or a General or a Judge, before the war; and it was he, also, that made these gentlemen value these bogus decorations. For it was he that created rank and caste down there, and also reverence for rank and caste, and pride and pleasure in them. Enough is laid on slavery, without fathering upon it these creations and contributions of Sir Walter. Sir Walter had so large a hand in making Southern character, as it existed before the war, that he is in great measure responsible for the war. It seems a little harsh toward a dead man to say that we never should have had any war but for Sir Walter; and yet something of a plausible argument might, perhaps, be made in support of that wild proposition. The Southerner of the American Revolution owned slaves; so did the Southerner of the Civil War: but the former resembles the latter as an Englishman resembles a Frenchman. The change of character can be traced rather more easily to Sir Walter's influence than to that of any other thing or person. One may observe, by one or two signs, how deeply that influence penetrated, and how strongly it holds. If one take up a Northern or Southern literary periodical of forty or fifty years ago, he will find it filled with wordy, windy, flowery 'eloquence,' romanticism, sentimentality--all imitated from Sir Walter, and sufficiently badly done, too--innocent travesties of his style and methods, in fact. This sort of literature being the fashion in both sections of the country, there was opportunity for the fairest competition; and as a consequence, the South was able to show as many well-known literary names, proportioned to population, as the North could. But a change has come, and there is no opportunity now for a fair competition between North and South. For the North has thrown out that old inflated style, whereas the Southern writer still clings to it--clings to it and has a restricted market for his wares, as a consequence. There is as much literary talent in the South, now, as ever there was, of course; but its work can gain but slight currency under present conditions; the authors write for the past, not the present; they use obsolete forms, and a dead language. But when a Southerner of genius writes modern English, his book goes upon crutches no longer, but upon wings; and they carry it swiftly all about America and England, and through the great English reprint publishing houses of Germany--as witness the experience of Mr. Cable and Uncle Remus, two of the very few Southern authors who do not write in the Southern style. Instead of three or four widely-known literary names, the South ought to have a dozen or two--and will have them when Sir Walter's time is out. A curious exemplification of the power of a single book for good or harm is shown in the effects wrought by 'Don Quixote' and those wrought by 'Ivanhoe.' The first swept the world's admiration for the medieval chivalry-silliness out of existence; and the other restored it. As far as our South is concerned, the good work done by Cervantes is pretty nearly a dead letter, so effectually has Scott's pernicious work undermined it.

Chapters

1. Chapter 1 2. CHAPTER I. The Mississippi is Well worth Reading about.--It is 3. CHAPTER II. La Salle again Appears, and so does a Cat-fish.--Buffaloes 4. CHAPTER III. A little History.--Early Commerce.--Coal Fleets and Timber 5. CHAPTER IV. The Boys' Ambition.--Village Scenes.--Steamboat Pictures. 6. CHAPTER VI. Besieging the Pilot.--Taken along.--Spoiling a Nap.--Fishing 7. CHAPTER VII. River Inspectors.--Cottonwoods and Plum Point.--Hat-Island 8. CHAPTER VIII. A Heavy-loaded Big Gun.--Sharp Sights in 9. CHAPTER IX. Shake the Reef.--Reason Dethroned.--The Face of the Water. 10. CHAPTER X. Putting on Airs.--Taken down a bit.--Learn it as it is.--The 11. CHAPTER XI. In thg Tract Business.--Effects of the Rise.--Plantations 12. CHAPTER XII. Low Water.--Yawl sounding.--Buoys and Lanterns.--Cubs and 13. CHAPTER XIII. A Pilot's Memory.--Wages soaring.--A Universal 14. CHAPTER XIV. Pilots and Captains.--High-priced Pilots.--Pilots in 15. CHAPTER XV. New Pilots undermining the Pilots' Association.--Crutches 16. CHAPTER XVI. All Aboard.--A Glorious Start.--Loaded to Win.--Bands and 17. CHAPTER XVII. Cut-offs.--Ditching and Shooting.--Mississippi Changes.--A 18. CHAPTER XVIII. Sharp Schooling.--Shadows.--I am Inspected.--Where did 19. CHAPTER XIX. A Question of Veracity.--A Little Unpleasantness.--I have 20. CHAPTER XX. I become a Passenger.--We hear the News.--A Thunderous 21. CHAPTER XXI. I get my License.--The War Begins.--I become a 22. CHAPTER XXII. I try the Alias Business.--Region of Goatees--Boots begin 23. CHAPTER XXIII. Old French Settlements.--We start for Memphis.--Young 24. CHAPTER XXIV. I receive some Information.--Alligator Boats.--Alligator 25. CHAPTER XXV. The Devil's Oven and Table.--A Bombshell falls.--No 26. CHAPTER XXVI. War Talk.--I Tilt over Backwards.--Fifteen Shot-holes.--A 27. CHAPTER XXVII. Tourists and their Note-books.--Captain Hall.--Mrs. 28. CHAPTER XXVIII. Swinging down the River.--Named for Me.--Plum Point 29. CHAPTER XXIX. Murel's Gang.--A Consummate Villain.--Getting Rid of 30. CHAPTER XXX. A Melancholy Picture.--On the Move.--River Gossip.--She 31. CHAPTER XXXI. Mutinous Language.--The Dead-house.--Cast-iron German and 32. CHAPTER XXXII. Ritter's Narrative.--A Question of 33. CHAPTER XXXIII. A Question of Division.--A Place where there was 34. CHAPTER XXXIV. An Austere Man.--A Mosquito Policy.--Facts dressed in 35. CHAPTER XXXV. Signs and Scars.--Cannon-thunder Rages.--Cave-dwellers. 36. CHAPTER XXXVI. The Professor Spins a Yarn.--An Enthusiast in Cattle.--He 37. CHAPTER XXXVII. A Terrible Disaster.--The “Gold Dust” explodes her 38. CHAPTER XXXVIII. Mr. Dickens has a Word.--Best Dwellings and 39. CHAPTER XXXIX. Rowdies and Beauty.--Ice as Jewelry.--Ice 40. CHAPTER XL. In Flowers, like a Bride.--A White-washed Castle.--A 41. CHAPTER XLI. The Approaches to New Orleans.--A Stirring 42. CHAPTER XLII. Beautiful Grave-yards.--Chameleons and 43. CHAPTER XLIII. I meet an Acquaintance.--Coffins and Swell Houses.--Mrs. 44. CHAPTER XLIV. French and Spanish Parts of the City.--Mr. Cable and the 45. CHAPTER XLV. “Waw” Talk.--Cock-Fighting.--Too Much to Bear.--Fine 46. CHAPTER XLVI. Mardi-Gras.--The Mystic Crewe.--Rex and Relics.--Sir 47. CHAPTER XLVII. Uncle Remus.--The Children Disappointed.--We Read Aloud. 48. CHAPTER XLVIII. Tight Curls and Springy Steps.--Steam-plows.--“No. I.” 49. CHAPTER XLIX. Pilot-Farmers.--Working on Shares.--Consequences.--Men who 50. CHAPTER L. A Patriarch.--Leaves from a Diary.--A Tongue-stopper.--The 51. CHAPTER LI. A Fresh “Cub” at the Wheel.--A Valley Storm.--Some Remarks 52. CHAPTER LII. I Collar an Idea.--A Graduate of Harvard.--A Penitent 53. CHAPTER LIII. A Masterly Retreat.--A Town at Rest.--Boyhood's 54. CHAPTER LIV. A Special Judgment.--Celestial Interest.--A Night of 55. CHAPTER LV. A second Generation.--A hundred thousand Tons of Saddles.--A 56. CHAPTER LVI. Perverted History--A Guilty Conscience.--A Supposititious 57. CHAPTER LVII. A Model Town.--A Town that Comes up to Blow in the Summer. 58. CHAPTER LVIII. An Independent Race.--Twenty-four-hour Towns.--Enchanting 59. CHAPTER LIX. Indian Traditions and Rattlesnakes.--A Three-ton 60. CHAPTER LX. The Head of Navigation.--From Roses to Snow.--Climatic 61. Chapter 61 62. Chapter 62 63. Chapter 63 64. Chapter 64 65. Chapter 65 66. Chapter 66 67. Chapter 67 68. Chapter 68 69. Chapter 69 70. Chapter 70 71. Chapter 71 72. Chapter 72 73. Chapter 73 74. Chapter 74 75. Chapter 75 76. Chapter 76 77. Chapter 77 78. Chapter 78 79. Chapter 79 80. Chapter 80 81. Chapter 81 82. Chapter 82 83. Chapter 83 84. Chapter 84 85. Chapter 85 86. Chapter 86 87. Chapter 87 88. Chapter 88 89. 1. Some believed in the Commission's scheme to arbitrarily and 90. 2. Some believed that the Commission's money ought to be spent only on 91. 3. Some believed that the higher you build your levee, the higher the 92. 4. Some believed in the scheme to relieve the river, in flood-time, by 93. 5. Some believed in the scheme of northern lake-reservoirs to replenish 94. Chapter 94 95. Chapter 95 96. Chapter 96 97. introduction of me. The man's eyes opened slowly, and glittered wickedly 98. Chapter 98 99. Chapter 99 100. Chapter 100 101. Chapter 101 102. Chapter 102 103. Chapter 103 104. Chapter 104 105. Chapter 105 106. Chapter 106 107. Chapter 107 108. Chapter 108 109. Chapter 109 110. Chapter 110 111. Chapter 111 112. Chapter 112 113. Chapter 113 114. Chapter 114 115. Chapter 115 116. Chapter 116 117. Chapter 117 118. Chapter 118 119. Chapter 119 120. Chapter 120 121. Chapter 121 122. Chapter 122 123. Chapter 123 124. Chapter 124 125. Chapter 125 126. Chapter 126

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