Chapter 4.)

Mascarpone, or Macherone _Italy_ Soft; white; delicate fresh cream from Lombardy. Usually packed in muslin or gauze bags, a quarter to a half pound. McIntosh _Alaska_ An early Klondike Cheddar named by its maker, Peter McIntosh, and described as being as yellow as that "Alaskan gold, which brought at times about ounce for ounce over mining-camp counters." _The Cheddar Box_ by Dean Collins. McLaren's _U.S.A._ Pioneer club type of snappy Cheddar in a pot, originally made in Canada, now by Kraft in the U.S.A. Meadowbloom _U.S.A._ Made by the Iowa State College at Ames. Mecklenburg Skim _Germany_ No more distinguished than most skim-milkers. Meilbou _France_ Made in the Champagne district. Mein Käse _U.S.A._ Sharp; aromatic; trade-marked package. Melfa _U.S.A._ Excellent for a processed cheese. White; flavorsome. Packed in half moons. Melun _France_ Brown-red rind, yellow inside; high-smelling. There is also a Brie de Melun. Mentelto _Italy_ Sharp; goat; from the Mentelto mountains Merignac _France_ Goat. Merovingian _Northeast France_ Semisoft; white; creamy; sharp; historic since the time of the Merovingian kings. Mersem _France_ Lightly cooked. Mesitra _Crimea_ Eaten when fresh and unsalted; also when ripened. Soft, ewe's milk. Mesost _Sweden_ Whey; sweetish. Metton _Franche-Comté, France_ Season October to June. Meuse _France_ Soft; piquant; aromatic. Midget Salami Provolone _U.S.A._ This goes Baby Goudas and Edams one better by being a sort of sausage, too. Mignot _Calvados, France_ _White, No. I:_ Soft; fresh; in small cubes or cylinders; in season only in summer, April to September. _Passe, No. II:_ Soft but ripened, and in the same forms, but only seasonal in winter, October to March. Similar to Pont l'Evêque and popular for more than a century. It goes specially well with Calvados cider, fresh, hard or distilled. Migras Name given to spring Brie--midway between fat winter Gras and thin summer Maigre. Milano, Stracchino di Milano, Fresco, Quardo _Italy_ Similar to Bel Paese. Yellow, with thin rind. 1-1/2 to 2-3/4 inches thick, 3 to 6-1/2 pounds. Milk Mud _see_ Schlickermilch. Millefiori _Milan, Italy_ A Thousand Flowers--as highly scented as its sentimental name. Yet no cheeses are so freshly fragrant as these flowery Alpine ones. Milltown Bar _U.S.A._ Robust texture and flavor reminiscent of free-lunch and old-time bars. Milk cheeses Milks that make cheese around the world: Ass Buffalo Camel Chamois Elephant Goat Human (_see_ Mother's milk) Llama Mare Reindeer Sea cow (Amazonian legend) Sheep Whale (legendary; see Whale Cheese) Yak Zebra Zebu U.S. pure food laws prohibit cheeses made of unusual or strange animal's milk, such as camel, llama and zebra. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse and Hand Käse _U.S.A._ Aromatic with caraway, brought from Germany by early emigrants and successfully imitated. Minas _Brazil_ Name for the Brazilian state of Minas Geraes, where it is made. Semihard; white; round two-pounder; often chalky. The two best brands are one called Primavera, Spring, and another put out by the Swiss professors who teach the art at the Agricultural University in the State Capital, Bello Horizonte. Minnesota Blue _U.S.A._ A good national product known from coast to coast. Besides Blue, Minnesota makes good all-American Brick and Cheddar, natural nationals to be proud of. Mintzitra _in Macedonia; and_ Mitzithra _in Greece_ Sheep; soft; succulent; and as pleasantly greasy as other sheep cheeses from Greece. It's a by-product of the fabulous Feta. Modena, Monte _U.S.A._ Made in U.S.A. during World War II. Parmesan-type. Mohawk Limburger Spread _U.S.A._ A brand that comes in one-pound jars. Moliterno _Italy_ Similar to Caciocavallo. _(See.)_ Monceau _Champagne, France_ Semihard, similar to Maroilles. Moncenisio _Italy_ Similar to Gorgonzola. Mondseer, Mondseer Schachtelkäse, Mondseer Schlosskäse _Austria_ This little family with a lot of long names is closely related to the Münster tribe, with very distant connections with the mildest branch of the Limburgers. The Schachtelkäse is named from the wooden boxes in which it is shipped, while the Schlosskäse shows its class by being called Castle Cheese, probably because it is richer than the others, being made of whole milk. Money made of cheese _China_ In the Chase National Bank collection of moneys of the world there is a specimen of "Cheese money" about which the curator, Farran Zerbee, writes: "A specimen of the so-called 'cheese money' of Northern China, 1850-70, now in the Chase Bank collection, came to me personally some thirty years ago from a woman missionary, who had been located in the field where she said a cake form of condensed milk, and referred to as 'cheese,' was a medium of exchange among the natives. It, like other commodities, particularly compressed tea, was prized as a trading medium in China, in that it had value as nutriment and was sufficiently appreciated by the population as to be exchangeable for other articles of service." Monk's Head _see_ Tête de Moine. Monostorer _Transylvania, Rumania_ Ewe's milk. Monsieur _France_ Soft; salted; rich in flavor. Monsieur Fromage _see_ Fromage de Monsieur Fromage. Montana _Catalonia_ A mountain cheese. Montasio _Austria and Italy_ Usually skimmed goat and cow milk mixed. When finished, the rind is often rubbed with olive oil or blackened with soot. It is eaten both fresh, white and sweet, and aged, when it is yellow, granular and sharp, with a characteristic flavor. Mostly used when three to twelve months old, but kept much longer and grated for seasoning. Widely imitated in America. Montauban de Bretagne, Fromage de _Brittany, France_ A celebrated cheese of Brittany. Montavoner _Austria_ Sour and sometimes sweet milk, made tasty with dried herbs of the _Achittea_ family. Mont Blanc _France_ An Alpine cheese. Mont Cenis _Southeastern France_ Usually made of all three available milks, cow, goat and sheep; it is semihard and blue-veined like the other Roquefort imitations, Gex and Septmoncel. Primitive methods are still used in the making and sometimes the ripening is done by _penicillium_ introduced in moldy bread. Large rounds, eighteen by six to eight inches, weighing twenty-five pounds. Mont-des-Cats _French Flanders_ Trappist monk-made Port-Salut. Montdidier _France_ A fresh cream. Mont d'or, le, or Mont Dore _Lyonnais, France_ Soft; whole milk; originally goat, now cow; made throughout the Rhone Valley. Fat, golden-yellow and "relished by financiers" according to Victor Meusy. Between Brie and Pont l'Evêque but more delicate than either, though not effeminate. Alpin and Riola are similar. The best is still turned out at Mont d'Or, with runners-up in St. Cyr and St. Didier. Montavoner _Austria_ A sour-milker made fragrant with herbs added to the curd. Monterey _Mexico_ Hard; sharp; perhaps inspired by Montery Jack that's made in California and along the Mexican border. Monterey Jack _see_ Chapter 4. Monthéry _Seine-et-Oise, France_ Whole or partly skimmed milk; soft in quality and large in size, weighing up to 5-1/2 pounds. Notable only for its patriotic tri-color in ripening, with whitish mold that turns blue and has red spots. Montpellier _France_ Sheep. Moravian _Czechoslovakia_ Semihard and sharp. Morbier _Bresse, France_ In season from November to July. Mostoffait _France_ A little-known product of Champagne. Mother's milk In his book about French varieties, _Les Fromages_, Maurice des Ombiaux sums up the many exotic milks made into cheese and recounts the story of Paul Bert, who served a cheese "white as snow" that was so delicately appetizing it was partaken of in "religious silence." All the guests guessed, but none was right. So the host announced it was made of _"lait de femme"_ and an astounded turophile exclaimed, "Then all of us are cannibals." Mountain _Bavaria_ Soft; yellow; sharp. Mountain, Azuldoch _see_ Azuldoch. Mount Hope _U.S.A._ Yellow; mellow; mild and porous California Cheddar. Mouse or Mouse Trap _U.S.A._ Common name for young, green, cracked, leathery or rubbery low-grade store cheese fit only to bait traps. When it's aged and sharp, however, the same cheese can be bait for caseophiles. Mozzarella _Italy_ Soft; water-buffalo milk; moistly fresh and unripened; bland, white cooking cheese put up in balls or big bowl-like cups weighing about a half pound and protected with wax paper. The genuine is made at Cardito, Aversa, Salernitano and in the Mazzoni di Capua. Like Ricotta, this is such a popular cheese all over America that it is imitated widely, and often badly, with a bitter taste. Mozzarella-Affumicata, also called Scamozza _Italy_ Semisoft; smooth; white; bland; un-salted. Put up in pear shapes of about one pound, with tan rind, from smoking. Eaten chiefly sliced, but prized, both fresh and smoked, in true Italian one-dish meals such as Lasagne and Pizza. Mozzarinelli _Italy_ A pet name for a diminutive edition of Mozzarella. Mrsav _see_ Sir Posny. Münster _Germany_ German originally, now made from Colmar, Strassburg and Copenhagen to Milwaukee in all sorts of imitations, both good and bad. Semihard; whole milk; yellow inside, brick-red outside; flavor from mild to strong, depending on age and amount of caraway or anise seed added. Best in winter season, from November to April. Münster is a world-wide classic that doubles for both German and French. Géromé is a standard French type of it, with a little longer season, beginning in April, and a somewhat different flavor from anise seed. Often, instead of putting the seeds inside, a dish of caraway is served with the cheese for those who like to flavor to taste. In Alsace, Münster is made plain and also under the name of Münster au Cumin because of the caraway. American imitations are much milder and marketed much younger. They are supposed to blend the taste of Brick and Limburger; maybe they do. Mustard _U.S.A._ A processed domestic, Gruyère type. Myjithra Imitated with goat's milk in Southern Colorado. Mysost, Mytost _Scandinavia_ Made in all Scandinavian countries and imitated in the U.S.A. A whey cheese, buttery, mild and sweetish with a caramel color all through, instead of the heavy chocolate or dark tobacco shade of Gjetost. Frimost is a local name for it. The American imitations are cylindrical and wrapped in tin foil. N Nagelkassa (Fresh), Fresh Clove Cheese, called Nageles in Holland _Austria_ Skim milk; curd mixed with caraway and cloves called nails, _nagel_, in Germany and Austria. The large flat rounds resemble English Derby. Nantais, or Fromage du Curé, Cheese of the Curate _Brittany, France_ A special variety dedicated to some curate of Nantes. Nessel _England_ Soft; whole milk; round and very thin. Neufchâtel, or Petit Suisse _Normandy, France_ Soft; whole milk; small loaf. See Ancien Impérial, Bondon, and Chapter 9. New Forest _England_ Cream cheese from the New Forest district. Nieheimer _Westphalia, Germany_ Sour milk; with salt and caraway seed added, sometimes beer or milk. Covered lightly with straw and packed in kegs with hops to ripen. Both beer and hops in one cheese is unique. Niolo _Corsica_ In season from October to May. Noekkelost or Nögelost _Norway_ Similar to spiced Leyden or Edam with caraway, and shaped like a Gouda. Nordlands-Ost "Kalas" _U.S.A._ Trade name for an American imitation of a Scandinavian variety, perhaps suggested by Swedish Nordost. Nordost _Sweden_ Semisoft; white; baked; salty and smoky. North Wilts _Wiltshire, England_ Cheddar type; smooth; hard rind; rich but delicate in flavor. Small size, ten to twelve pounds; named for its locale. Nostrale _Northwest Italy_ An ancient-of-days variety of which there are two kinds: I. _Formaggio Duro:_ hard, as its name says, made in the spring when the cows are in the valley. II. _Formaggio Tenero:_ soft and richer, summer-made with milk from lush mountain-grazing. Notruschki (cheese bread) _Russia_ Made with Tworog cheese and widely popular. Nova Scotia Smoked _U.S.A._ The name must mean that the cheese was smoked in the Nova Scotia manner, for it is smoked mostly in New York City, like sturgeon, to give the luxurious flavor. Nuworld _U.S.A._ This semisoft newcomer arrived about 1954 and is advertised as a brand-new variety. It is made in the Midwest and packed in small, heavily waxed portions to preserve all of its fine, full aroma and flavor. A cheese all America can be proud of, whether it is an entirely new species or not. O Oaxaca _see_ Asadero. Oka, or La Trappe _Canada_ Medium soft; aromatic; the Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Canada after the secret method of the order that originated in France. _See_ Trappe. Old English Club _U.S.A._ Not old, not English, and representing no club we know of. Old Heidelberg _U.S.A._ Soft, piquant rival of Liederkranz. Oléron Isle, Fromage d'Ile _France_ A celebrated sheep cheese from this island of Oléron. Olive Cream _U.S.A._ Ground olives mixed to taste with cream cheese. Olives rival pimientos for such mildly piquant blends that just suit the bland American taste. A more exciting olive cream may be made with Greek Calatma olives and Feta sheep cheese. Olivet _Orléans, France_ Soft sheep cheese sold in three forms: I. Fresh; summer, white; cream cheese. II. Olivet-Bleu--mold inoculated; half-ripened. III. Olivet-Cendré, ripened in the ashes. Season, October to June. Olmützer Quargel, also Olmützer Bierkäse _Austria_ Soft; skim milk-soured; salty. The smallest of hand cheeses, only 1/2 of an inch thick by 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Packed in kegs to ripen into beer cheese and keep the liquid contents of other kegs company. A dozen of these little ones are packed together in a box ready to drop into wine or beer drinks at home or at the bar. Oloron, or Fromage de la Vallee d'ossour _Béarn, France_ In season from October to May. Onion with garlic links _U.S.A_ Processed and put up like frankfurters, in links. Oporto _Portugal_ Hard; sharp; tangy. From the home town of port wine. Orkney _Scotland_ A country cheese of the Orkney Islands where it is buried in the oat bin to ripen, and kept there between meals as well. Oatmeal and Scotch country cheese are natural affinities. Southey, Johnson and Boswell have all remarked the fine savor of such cheese with oatcakes. Orléans _France_ Named after the Orléans district Soft; creamy; tangy. Ossetin, Tuschninsk, or Kasach _Caucasus_ Comes in two forms: I. Soft and mild sheep or cow cheese ripened in brine for two months. II. Hard, after ripening a year and more in brine. The type made of sheep milk is the better. Ostiepek, Oschtjepek, Oschtjpeka _Czechoslovakia_ Sheep in the Carpathian Mountains supply the herb-rich milk for this type, similar to Italian Caciocavallo. Oswego _U.S.A._ New York State Cheddar of distinction. Oude Kaas _Belgium_ Popular in France as Boule de Lille. Oust, Fromage de _Roussillon, France_ Of the Camembert family. Ovár _Hungarian_ Semisoft to semihard, reddish-brown rind, reddish-yellow inside. Mild but pleasantly piquant It has been called Hungarian Tilsit. Oveji Sir _Yugoslavian Alpine_ Hard, mountain-sheep cheese of quality Cellar-ripened three months. Weight six to ten pounds. Oxfordshire _England_ An obsolescent type, now only of literary interest because of Jonathan Swift's little story around it, in the eighteenth century: "An odd land of fellow, who when the cheese came upon the table, pretended to faint; so somebody said, Pray take away the cheese.' "'No,' said I, 'pray take away the fool. Said I well?' "To this Colonel Arwit rejoins: 'Faith, my lord, you served the coxcomb right enough; and therefore I wish we had a bit of your lordship's Oxfordshire cheese.'" P Pabstett _U.S.A_ The Pabst beer people got this out during Prohibition, and although beer and cheese are brothers under their ferment, and Prohibition has long since been done away with, the relation of the processed paste to a natural cheese is still as distant as near beer from regular beer. Packet cheese _England_ This corresponds to our process cheese and is named from the package or packet it comes in. Paglia _Switzerland_ Italian-influenced Canton of Ticino. Soft. A copy of Gorgonzola. A Blue with a pleasant, aromatic flavor, and of further interest because in Switzerland, the motherland of cheese, it is an imitation of a foreign type. Pago _Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ A sheep-milk specialty made on the island of Pago in Dalmatia, in weights from 1/2 to eight pounds. Paladru _Savoy, France_ In season from November to May. Palpuszta _Hungary_ Fairly strong Limburger type. Pannarone _Italy_ Gorgonzola type with white curd but without blue veining. Parenica _Hungary_ Sheep. Caciocavallo type. Parmesan, Parmigiano _Italy_ The grand mogul of all graters. Called "The hardest cheese in the world." It enlivens every course from onion soup to cheese straws with the demitasse, and puts spirit into the sparse Lenten menu as _Pasta al Pesto_, powdered Parmesan, garlic, olive oil and basil, pounded in a mortar with a pestle. Passauer Rahmkäse, Crème de Passau _German_ Noted Bavarian cream cheese, known in France as Crème de Passau. Pasta Cotta _Italy_ The ball or _grana_ of curd used in making Parmesan. Pasta Filata _Italy_ A "drawn" curd, the opposite of the little balls or grains into which Grana is chopped.(_See_ Formaggi di Pasta Filata.) Pasteurized Process Cheese Food _U.S.A._ This is the ultimate desecration of natural fermented cheese. Had Pasteur but known what eventual harm his discovery would do to a world of cheese, he might have stayed his hand. Pastorella _Italy_ Soft, rich table cheese. Patagras _Cuba_ Similar to Gouda. Pecorino _Italy_ Italian cheese made from ewe's milk. Salted in brine. Granular. Pelardon de Rioms _Languedoc, France_ A goat cheese in season from May to November. Peneteleu _Rumania_ One of the international Caciocavallo family. Penicillium Glaucum and Penicillium Album Tiny mushroom spores of _Penicillium Glaucum_ sprinkled in the curd destined to become Roquefort, sprout and grow into "blue" veins that impart the characteristic flavor. In twelve to fifteen days a second spore develops on the surface, snow-white _Penicillium Album_. Pennich _Turkey_ Mellow sheep cheese packed in the skin of sheep or lamb. Pennsylvania Hand Cheese _U.S.A._ This German original has been made by the Pennsylvania Dutch ever since they arrived from the old country. Also Pennsylvania pot, or cooked. Penroque _Pennsylvania, U.S.A_ Cow milk imitation Roquefort, inoculated with _Penicillium Roqueforti_ and ripened in "caverns where nature has duplicated the ideal condition of the cheese-curing caverns of France." So any failure of Penroque to rival real Roquefort is more likely to be the fault of mother cow than mother nature. Pepato _Italy_ Hard; stinging, with whole black peppers that make the lips burn. Fine for fire-eaters. An American imitation is made in Northern Michigan. Persillé de Savoie _Savoie, France_ In season from May to January, flavored with parsley in a manner similar to that of sage in Vermont Cheddar. Petafina, La _Dauphiné, France_ Goat or cow milk mixed together, with yeast of dried cheese added, plus salt and pepper, olive oil, brandy and absinthe. Petit Carré _France_ Fresh, unripened Ancien Impérial. Petit Gruyère _Denmark_ Imitation Gruyère, pasteurized, processed and made almost unrecognizable and inedible. Six tin-foil wedges to a box; also packaged with a couple of crackers for bars, one wedge for fifteen cents, where free lunch is forbidden. This is a fair sample of one of several foreign imitations that are actually worse than we can do at home. Petit Moule _Ile-de-France, France_ A pet name for Coulommiers. Petit Suisse _France_ Fresh, unsalted cream cheese. The same as Neufchâtel and similar to Coulommiers. It comes in two sizes: Gros--a largest cylinder Demi--a small one Keats called this "the creamy curd," and another writer has praised its "La Fontaine-like simplicity." Whether made in Normandy, Switzerland, or Petropolis, Brazil, by early Swiss settlers, it is ideal with honey. Petit Vacher _France_ "Little Cowboy," an appropriate name for a small cow's-milk cheese. Petits Bourgognes _Lower Burgundy, France_ Soft; sheep; white, small, tangy. Other notable Petits also beginning with B are Banons and Bressans. Petits Fromages de Chasteaux, les _France_ Small, sheep cream cheeses from Lower Limousin. Petits Fromages de Chèvre _France_ Little cheeses from little goats grazing on the little mountains of Provence. Petits Pots de Caillé de Poitiers _Poitou, France_ Clotted milk in small pots. Pfister _Cham, Switzerland_ Emmentaler type, although differing in its method of making with fresh skim milk. It is named for Pfister Huber who was the first to manufacture it, in Chain. Philadelphia Cream _U.S.A._ An excellent cream cheese that has been standard for seventy years. Made in New York State in spite of its name. Picnic _U.S.A._ Handy-size picnic packing of mild American Cheddar. Swiss has long been called picnic cheese in America, its home away from home. Picodon de Dieule Fit _Dauphiné, France_ In season from May to December. Pie, Fromage à la _France_ Another name for Fromage Blanc or Farm; soft, creamy cottage-cheese type. Pie Cheese _U.S.A_ An apt American name for any round store cheese that can be cut in wedges like a pie. Perfect with apple or mince or any other pie. And by the way, in these days when natural cheese is getting harder to find, any piece of American Cheddar cut in pie wedges before being wrapped in cellophane is apt to be the real thing--if it has the rind on. The wedge shape is used, however, _without any rind_, to make processed pastes pass for "natural" even without that identifying word, and with misleading labels such as old, sharp Cheddar and "aged nine months." That's long enough to make a baby, but not a "natural" out of a processed "Cheddar." Pimiento _U.S.A._ Because pimiento is the blandest of peppers, it just suits our bland national taste, especially when mixed with Neufchâtel, cream, club or cottage. The best is homemade, of course, with honest, snappy old Cheddar mashed and mixed to taste, with the mild Spanish pepper that equals the Spanish olive as a partner in such spreads. Pimp _see_ Mainzer Hand Cheese. Pineapple _see_ Chapter 4. Piora _Tessin, Switzerland_ Hard cheese with small eyes. Whole milk, either cow's or a mixture of goat's and cow's. Pippen _U.S.A._ Borden brand of Cheddar. Also Pippen Roll. Pithiviers au Foin _France_ Orléans variety ripened on hay from October to May. Poitiers _France_ Goat's milker named from its Poitou district. Pommel _France_ All year. Double cream; unsalted. Ponta Delgada _Azores_ Semifirm; delicate; piquant Pontgibaud _France_ Similar to Roquefort Ripened at a very low temperature. Pont l'Evêque Characterized as a classic French _fromage_ "with Huge-like Romanticism." (_See_ Chapter 3.) An imported brand is called "The Inquisitive Cow." Poona _U.S.A._ Semisoft; mellow; New York Stater of distinctive flavor. Sold in two-pound packs, to be kept four or five hours at room temperature before serving. Port-Salut, Port du Salut _see_ Chapter 3. Port, Blue Links _U.S.A._ "Blue" flavored with red port and put up in pseudo-sausage links. Pot cheese _U.S.A._ Cottage cheese with a dry curd, not creamed. An old English favorite for fruited cheese cakes with perfumed plums, lemons, almonds and macaroons. In Ireland it was used in connection with the sheep-shearing ceremonies, although itself a common cow curd. Pennsylvania pot cheese is cooked. Potato _Germany and U.S.A._ Made in Thuringia from sour cow milk with sheep or goat sometimes added. "The potatoes are boiled and grated or mashed. One part of the potato is thoroughly mixed or kneaded with two or three parts of die curd. In the better cheese three parts of potatoes are mixed with two of curd. During the mixing, salt and sometimes caraway seed are added. The cheese is allowed to stand for from two to four days while a fermentation takes place. After this the curd is sometimes covered with beer or cream and is finally placed in tubs and allowed to ripen for fourteen days. A variety of this cheese is made in the U.S. It is probable, however, that it is not allowed to ripen for quite so long a period as the potato cheese of Europe. In all other essentials it appears to be the same." From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608. Potato Pepper _Italy_ Italian Potato cheese is enlivened with black pepper, like Pepato, only not so stony hard. Pots de Crème St. Gervais _St. Gervais-sur-mer, France_ The celebrated cream that rivals English Devonshire and is eaten both as a sweet and as a fresh cheese. Pouligny-St. Pierre _Touraine, France_ A celebrated cylindrical cheese made in Indre. Season from May to December. Poustagnax, le _France_ A fresh cow-milk cheese of Gascony. Prato _Brazil_ Semihard, very yellow imitation of the Argentine imitation of Holland Dutch. Standard Brazilian dessert with guava or quince paste. Named not from "dish" but the River Plate district of the Argentine from whence it was borrowed long ago. Prattigau _Switzerland_ Aromatic and sharp, Limburger type, from skim milk. Named for its home valley. Prestost or Saaland Flarr _Sweden_ Similar to Gouda, but unique--the curd being mixed with whiskey, packed in a basket, salted and cellared, wrapped in a cloth changed daily; and on the third day finally washed with whiskey. Primavera, Spring _Minas Geraes, Brazil_ Semihard white brand of Minas cheese high quality, with a spring-like fragrance. Primost _Norway_ Soft; whey; unripened; light brown; mild flavor. Primula _Norway_ A blend of French Brie and Petit Gruyère, mild table cheese imitate in Norway, sold in small packages. Danish Appetitost is similar, but with caraway added. Processed _U.S.A._ From here around the world. Natural cheese melted and modified by emulsification with a harmless agent and thus changed into a plastic mass. Promessi _Italy_ Small soft-cream cheese. Provatura _Italy_ A water-buffalo variety. This type of milk makes a good beginning for a fine cheese, no matter how it is made. Providence _France_ Port-Salut from the Trappist monastery at Briquebec. Provole, Provolone, Provolocine, Provoloncinni, Provoletti, and Provolino _Italy_ All are types, shapes and sizes of Italy's most widely known and appreciated cheese. It is almost as widely but badly imitated in the U.S.A., where the final "e" and "i" are interchangeable. Cured in string nets that stay on permanently to hang decoratively in the home kitchen or dining room. Like straw Chianti bottles, Provolones weigh from _bocconi_ (mouthful), about one pound, to two to four pounds. There are three-to five-pound Provoletti, and upward with huge Salamis and Giants. Small ones come ball, pear, apple, and all sorts of decorative shapes, big ones become monumental sculptures that are works of art to compare with butter and soap modeling. P'teux, le, or Fromage Cuit _Lorraine, France_ Cooked cheese worked with white wine instead of milk, and potted. Puant Macere _Flanders_ "The most candidly named cheese in existence." In season from November to June. Pultost or Knaost _Norway_ Sour milk with some buttermilk, farm made in mountains. Pusztador _Hungary_ Semihard, Limburger-Romadur type. Full flavor, high scent. Pyrenees, Fromage des _France_ A fine mountain variety. Q Quartiolo _Italy_ Term used to distinguish Parmesan-type cheese made between September and November. Quacheq _Macedonia, Greece_ Sheep, eaten both fresh and ripened. Quargel _see_ Olmützer. Quartirolo _Italy_ Soft, cow's milk. Queijos--Cheeses of the Azores, Brazil and Portugal _see_ under their local or regional names: Alemtejo, Azeitão, Cardiga, Ilha, Prato and Serra da Estrella. Queso Anejo _Mexico_ White, dry, skim milk. Queso de Bola _Mexico_ Whole milk, similar to Edam. Queso de Cavallo _Venezuela_ Pear-shaped cheese. Quesos Cheeses: Blanco, Cartera and Palma Metida _see_ Venezuela. Queso de Cincho _Venezuela_ Hard, round orange balls weighing four pounds and wrapped in palm leaves. Queso de Crema _Costa Rica_ Similar to soft Brick. Queso de Hoja, Leaf Cheese _Puerto Rico_ Named from its appearance when cut, like leaves piled on top of each other. Queso de Mano _Venezuela_ Aromatic, sharp, in four-ounce packages. Queso del Pais, Queso de la Tierra _Puerto Rico_ White; pressed; semisoft Consumed locally, Queso de Prensa _Puerto Rico_ The name means pressed cheese. It is eaten either fresh or after ripening two or three months. Queso de Puna _Puerto Rico_ Like U.S. cottage or Dutch cheese, eaten fresh. Queso de Tapara _Venezuela_ Made in Carora, near Barqisimeto, called _tapara_ from the shape and tough skin of that local gourd. "It is very good fresh, but by the time it arrives in Carora it is often bad and dry." D.K.K. in _Bueno Provecho._ Queso Fresco _El Salvador_ Cottage-cheese type. Queville _see_ Chapter 3. Queyras _see_ Champoléon. R Rabaçal _Coimbra, Portugal_ Semisoft; sheep or goat; thick, round, four to five inches in diameter. Pleasantly oily, if made from sheep milk. Rabbit Cheese _U.S.A._ A playful name for Cheddar two to three years old. Radener _Germany_ Hard; skim, similar to Emmentaler; made in Mecklenburg. Sixteen by four inches, weight 32 pounds. Radolfzeller Cream _Germany, Switzerland, Austria_ Similar to Münster. Ragnit _see_ Tilsit. Rahmkäse, Allgäuer _German_ Cream. Rainbow _Mexico_ Mild; mellow. Ramadoux _Belgium_ Soft; sweet cream; formed in cubes. Similar to Hervé Rammil or Rammel _England_ André Simon calls this "the best cheese made in Dorsetshire." Also called Rammilk, because made from whole or "raw milk." Practically unobtainable today. Rangiport _France_ A good imitation of Port-Salut made in Seine-et-Oise. Rarush Durmar _Turkey_ Brittle; mellow; nutty. Rächerkäse The name for all smoked cheese in Germanic countries, where it is very popular. Raviggiolo _Tuscany, Italy_ Ewe's milk. Uncooked; soft; sweet; creamy. Rayon or Raper _Switzerland_ A blind Emmentaler called Rayon is shipped young to Italy, where it is hardened by aging and then sold as Raper, for grating and seasoning. Reblochon or Roblochon _Savoy_ Sheep; soft; whole milk; in season from October to June. Weight one to two pounds. A cooked cheese imitated as Brizecon in the same section. Récollet de Gérardmer _Vosges, France_ A harvest variety similar to Géromé, made from October to April. Red _Russia_ _see_ Livlander. Red Balls _Dutch_ _see_ Edam. Reggiano _see_ Grana. Regianito _Argentine_ Italian Reggiano type with a name of its own, for it is not a mere imitation in this land of rich milk and extra fine cheeses. Reichkäse _German_ Patriotically hailed as cheese of the empire, when Germany had one. Reindeer _Lapland, Iceland, Sweden, Norway_ In all far northern lands a type of Swiss is made from reindeer milk It is lightly salted, very hard; and the Lapland production is curiously formed, like a dumbbell with angular instead of round ends. Relish cream cheese _U.S.A._ Mixed with any piquant relish and eaten fresh. Remoudon, or Fromage Piquant _Belgium_ The two names combine in re-ground piquant cheese, and that's what it is. The season is winter, from November to June. Requeijão _Portugal and Brazil_ Recooked. Resurrection _see_ Welsh. Rhubarbe _France_ A type of Roquefort which, in spite of its name, is no relation to our pie plant. Riceys _see_ Champenois. Ricotta Romano _Italy_ Soft and fresh. The best is made from sheep buttermilk. Creamy, piquant, with subtle fragrance. Eaten with sugar and cinnamon, sometimes with a dusting of powdered coffee. Ricotta _Italy and U.S.A._ Fresh, moist, unsalted cottage cheese for sandwiches, salads, lasagne, blintzes and many Italian dishes. It is also mixed with Marsala and rum and relished for dessert Ricotta may be had in every Little Italy, some of it very well made and, unfortunately, some of it a poor substitute whey cheese. Ricotta Salata Hard; grayish white. Although its flavor is milk it is too hard and too salty for eating as is, and is mostly used for grating. Riesengebirge _Bohemia_ Semisoft; goat or cow; delicate flavor, lightly smoked in Bohemia's northern mountains. Rinnen _Germany_ This traditional Pomeranian sour-milk, caraway-seeded variety is named from the wooden trough in which it is laid to drain. Riola _Normandy, France_ Soft; sheep or goat; sharp; resembles Mont d'Or but takes longer to ripen, two to three months. Robbiole Robbiola Robbiolini _ Lombardy_ _ Italian_ Very similar to Crescenza (_see_.) Alpine winter cheese of fine quality. The form is circular and flat, weighing from eight ounces to two pounds, while Robbiolini, the baby of the family tips the scale at just under four ounces. Roblochon, le Same as Reblochon. A delicious form of it is made of half-dried sheep's milk in Le Grand Bornand. Rocamadur _Limousin, France_ Tiny sheep milk cheese weighing two ounces. In season November to May. Rocroi _France_ From the Champagne district. Rokadur _Yugoslavia_ Imitation Roquefort. Roll _England_ Hard cylinder, eight by nine inches, weighing twenty pounds. Rollot or Rigolot _Picardy and Montdidier, France_ Soft; fermented; mold-inoculated; resembles Brie and Camembert, but much smaller. In season October to May. This is Picardy's one and only cheese. Roma _Italy_ Soft cream. Romadour, Romadura, and other national spellings _Germany, Austria, Hungary, Switzerland_ A great Linburger. The eating season is from November to April. It is not a summer cheese, especially in lands where refrigeration is scarce. Fine brands are exported to America from several countries. Romano, Romano Vacchino _Italy_ Strong flavoring cheese like Parmesan and Pecorino. Romanello _U.S.A._ Similar to Romano Vacchino and Old Monterey Jack. Small grating cheese, cured one year. Roquefort _France_ King of cheeses, with its "tingling Rabelaisian pungency." _See_