Chapter 3.

Roquefort cheese dressing, bottled _U.S.A._ Made with genuine imported Roquefort, but with cottonseed oil instead of olive, plain instead of wine vinegar, sugar, salt, paprika, mustard, flour and spice oil. Roquefort de Corse _Corsica, France_ This Corsican imitation is blue-colored and correctly made of sheep milk, but lacks the chalk caves of Auvergne for ripening. Roquefort de Tournemire _France_ Another Blue cheese of sheep milk from Languedoc, using the royal Roquefort name. Rougerets, les _Lyonnais, France_ A typical small goat cheese from Forez, in a section where practically every variety is made with goat milk. Rouennais _France_ This specialty, named after its city, Rouen, is a winter cheese, eaten from October to May. Round Dutch _Holland_ An early name for Edam. Rouy, le _Normandy, France_ From the greatest of the cheese provinces, Normandy. Royal Brabant _Belgium_ Whole milk. Small, Limburger type. Royal Sentry _Denmark_ Processed Swiss made in Denmark and shipped to Americans who haven't yet learned that a European imitation can be as bad as an American one. This particular pasteurized process-cheese spread puts its ingredients in finer type than any accident insurance policy: Samsoe (Danish Swiss) cheese, cream, water, non-fat dry milk solids, cheese whey solids and disodium phosphate. Ruffec, Fromage de _Saintonge, France_ Fresh; goat. Runesten _Denmark and U.S.A._ Similar to Herrgårdsost. Small eyes. "Wheel" weighs about three pounds. Wrapped in red transparent film. Rush Cream Cheese _England and France_ Not named from the rush in which many of our cheeses are made, but from the rush mats and nets some fresh cream cheeses are wrapped and sewed up in to ripen. According to an old English recipe the curds are collected with an ordinary fish-slice and placed in a rush shape, covered with a cloth when filled. Lay a half-pound weight in a saucer and set this on top of the strained curd for a few hours, and then increase the weight by about a half pound. Change the cloths daily until the cheese looks mellow, then put into the rush shape with the fish slice. The formula in use in France, where willow heart-shape baskets are sold for making this cheese, is as follows: Add one cup new warm milk to two cups freshly-skimmed cream. Dissolve in this one teaspoon of fine sugar and one tablespoon common rennet or thirty drops of Hauser's extract of rennet. Let it remain in a warm place until curd sets. Rush and straw mats are easily made by cutting the straw into lengths and stringing them with a needle and thread. The mats or baskets should not be used a second time. S Saaland Pfarr, or Prestost _Sweden_ Firm; sharp; biting; unique of its kind because it is made with whiskey as an ingredient and the finished product is also washed with whiskey. Saanen _Switzerland_ Semihard and as mellow as all good Swiss cheese. This is the finest cheese in the greatest cheese land; an Emmentaler also known as Hartkäse, Reibkäse and Walliskäse, it came to fame in the sixteenth century and has always fetched an extra price for its quality and age. It is cooked much dryer in the making, so it takes longer to ripen and then keeps longer than any other. It weighs only ten to twenty pounds and the eyes are small and scarce. The average period needed for ripening is six years, but some take nine. Sage, or Green cheese _England_ This is more of a cream cheese, than a Cheddar, as Sage is in the U.S.A. It is made by adding sage leaves and a greening to milk by the method described in Chapter 4. Saint-Affrique _Guyenne, France_ This gourmetic center, hard by the celebrated town of Roquefort, lives up to its reputation by turning out a toothsome goat cheese of local renown. We will not attempt to describe it further, since like most of the host of cheeses honored with the names of Saints, it is seldom shipped abroad. Saint-Agathon _Brittany, France_ Season, October to July. Saint-Amand-Montrond _Berry, France_ Made from goat's milk. Saint-Benoit _Loiret, France_ Soft Olivet type distinguished by charcoal being added to the salt rubbed on the outside of the finished cheese. It ripens in twelve to fifteen days in summer, and eighteen to twenty in winter. It is about six inches in diameter. Saint-Claude _Franche-Comté, France_ Semihard; blue; goat; mellow; small; square; a quarter to a half pound. The curd is kept five to six hours only before salting and is then eaten fresh or put away to ripen. Saint-Cyr _see_ Mont d'Or. Saint-Didier au Mont d'Or _see_ Mont d'Or. Saint-Florentin _Burgundy, France_ A lusty cheese, soft but salty, in season from November to July. Saint-Flour _Auvergne, France_ Another seasonal specialty from this province of many cheeses. Saint-Gelay _Poitou, France_ Made from goat's milk. Saint-Gervais, Pots de Creme, or Le Saint Gervais _see_ Pots de Crème. Saint-Heray _see_ La Mothe. Saint-Honoré _Nivernais, France_ A small goat cheese. Saint-Hubert _France_ Similar to Brie. Saint-Ivel _England_ Fresh dairy cream cheese containing _Lactobacillus acidophilus_. Similar to the yogurt cheese of the U.S.A., which is made with _Bacillus Bulgaricus._ Saint-Laurent _Roussillon, France_ Mountain sheep cheese. Saint-Lizier _Béarn, France_ A white, curd cheese. Saint-Loup, Fromage de _Poitou and Vendée, France_ Half-goat, half-cow milk, in season February to September Saint-Marcellin _Dauphiné, France_ One of the very best of all goat cheeses. Three by 3/4 inches, weighing a quarter of a pound. In season from March to December. Sometimes sheep milk may be added, even cow's, but this is essentially a goat cheese. Saint-Moritz _Switzerland_ Soft and tangy. Saint-Nectaire, or Senecterre _Auvergne, France_ Noted as one of the greatest of all French goat cheeses. Saint-Olivet _see_ Chapter 3. Saint-Pierre-Pouligny _see_ Pouligny-Saint-Pierre. Saint-Reine _see_ Alise. Saint-Rémy, Fromage de _Haute-Saône, France_ Soft Pont l'Evêque type. Saint-Stefano _German_ Bel Paese type. Saint-Winx _Flanders, France_ The fromage of Saint-Winx is a traditional leader in this Belgian border province noted for its strong, spiced dairy products. Sainte-Anne d'Auray _Brittany, France_ A notable Port-Salut made by Trappist monks. Sainte-Marie _Franche-Comté, France_ A creamy concoction worthy of its saintly name. Sainte-Maure, le, or Fromage de Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine _France_ Made in Touraine from May to November. Similar to Valençay. Salamana _Southern Europe_ Soft sheep's milk cheese stuffed into bladderlike sausage, to ripen. It has authority and flavor when ready to spread on bread, or to mix with cornmeal and cook into a highly cheese-flavored porridge. Salame _France_ Soft cream cheese stuffed into skins like salami sausages. Salami-sausage style of packing cheese has always been common in Italy, from Provolone down, and now--both as salami and links--it has became extremely popular for processed and cheese foods throughout America. Salers, Bleu de _France_ One of the very good French Blues. Saligny _Champagne, France_ White cheese made from sheep's milk. Saloio _Lisbon, Portugal_ An aromatic farm-made hand cheese of skim milk. Short cylinder, 1-1/2 to two inches in diameter, weighing a quarter of a pound. Made near the capital, Lisbon, on many small farms. Salonite _Italy_ Favorite of Emperor Augustus a couple of thousand years ago. Saltee _Ireland_ Firm; highly colored; tangy; boxed in half-pound slabs. The same as Whitethorn except for the added color. Whitethorn is as white as its name implies. Salt-free cheese, for diets U.S. cottage; French fresh goat cheese; and Luxembourg Kochenkäse. Samsö _Denmark_ Hard; white; sharp; slightly powdery and sweetish. This is the pet cheese of Erik Blegvad who illustrated this book. Sandwich Nut An American mixture of chopped nuts with Cream cheese or Neufchâtel. Sapsago _see_ Chapter 3. Sardegna _Sardinia_ A Romano type made in Sardinia. Sardinian _Sardinia, Italy_ The typical hard grating cheese of this section of Italy. Sardo _Sardinia, Italy_ Hard; sharp; for table and for seasoning. Imitated in the Argentine. There is also a Pecorino named Sardo. Sarraz or Sarrazin _Vaud, Switzerland_ Roquefort type. Sassenage _Dauphiny, France_ Semihard; bluer and stronger than Stilton. This makes a French trio of Blues with Septmoncel and Gex, all three of which are made with the three usual milks mixed: cow, goat and sheep. A succulent fermented variety for which both Grenoble and Sassenage are celebrated. Satz _Germany_ Hard cheese made in Saxony. Savoy, Savoie _France_ Semisoft; mellow; tangy Port-Salut made by Trappist monks in Savoy. Sbrinz _Argentine_ Hard; dry; nutty; Parmesan grating type. Scanno _Abruzzi, Italy_ Soft as butter; sheep; burnt taste, delicious with fruits. Blackened rind, deep yellow interior. Scarmorze or Scamorze _Italy_ Hard; buffalo milk; mild Provolone type. Also called Pear from being made in that shape, oddly enough also in pairs, tied together to hang from rafters on strings in ripening rooms or in the home kitchen. Fine when sliced thick and fried in olive oil. A specialty around Naples. Light-tan oiled rind, about 3-1/2 by five inches in size. Imitated in Wisconsin and sold as Pear cheese. Schabziger _see_ Chapter 3. Schafkäse (Sheep Cheese) _Germany_ Soft; part sheep milk; smooth and delightful. Schamser, or Rheinwald _Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_ Large skim-milker eighteen by five inches, weighing forty to forty-six pounds. Schlickermilch This might be translated "milk mud." It's another name for Bloder, sour milk "waddle" cheese. Schlesische Sauermilchkäse _Silesia, Poland_ Hard; sour-milker; made like hand cheese. Laid on straw-covered shelves, dried by a stove in winter and in open latticed sheds in summer. When very dry and hard, it is put to ripen in a cellar three to eight weeks and washed with warm water two or three times a week. Schlesischer Weichquarg _Silesia, Poland_ Soft, fresh skim, sour curd, broken up and cooked at 100° for a short time. Lightly pressed in a cloth sack twenty-four hours, then kneaded and shaped by hand, as all hand cheeses are. Sometimes sharply flavored with onions or caraway. Eaten fresh, before the strong hand cheese odor develops. Schloss, Schlosskäse, or Bismarck _German_ This Castle cheese, also named for Bismarck and probably a favorite of his, together with Bismarck jelly doughnuts, is an aristocratic Limburger that served as a model for Liederkranz. Schmierkäse German cottage cheese that becomes smearcase in America. Schnitzelbank Pot _see_ Liederkranz, Chapter 4. Schoenland _German_ Imitation of Italian Bel Paese, also translated "beautiful land." Schützenkäse _Austria_ Romadur-type. Small rectangular blocks weighing less than four ounces and wrapped in tin foil. Shottengsied _Alpine_ A whey cheese made and consumed locally in the Alps. Schwarzenberger _Hungary and Bohemia_ One part skim to two parts fresh milk. It takes two to three months to ripen. Schweizerkäse _Switzerland_ German for Swiss cheese. (_See_ Emmentaler.) Schweizerost Dansk, Danish Swiss Cheese _Denmark_ A popular Danish imitation of Swiss Swiss cheese that is nothing wonderful. Select Brick _see_ Chapter 12. Selles-sur Cher _Berry, France_ A goat cheese, eaten from February to September. Sénecterre _Puy-de-Dôme, France_ Soft, whole-milk; cylindrical, weighing about 1-1/2 pounds. Septmoncel _France_ Semihard; skim; blue-veined; made of all three milks: cow, goat and sheep. An excellent "Blue" ranked above Roquefort by some, and next to Stilton. Also called Jura Bleu, and a member of the triple milk triplets with Gex and Sassenage. Serbian _Serbia_ Made most primitively by dropping heated stones into a kettle of milk over an open fire. After the rennet is added, the curd stands for an hour and is separated from the whey by being lifted in a cheesecloth and strained. It is finally put in a wooden vessel to ripen. First it is salted, then covered each day with whey for eight days and finally with fresh milk for six. Syria also makes a cheese called Serbian from goat's milk. It is semisoft. Serbian Butter _see_ Kajmar. Serra da Estrella, Queijo da (Cheese of the Star Mountain Range) _Portugal_ The finest of several superb mountain-sheep cheeses in Portugal. Other milk is sometimes added, but sheep is standard. The milk is coagulated by an extract of thistle or cardoon flowers in two to six hours. It is ripened in circular forms for several weeks and marketed in rounds averaging five pounds, about ten by two inches. The soft paste inside is pleasantly oily and delightfully acid. Sharp-flavored cheese U.S. aged Cheddars, including Monterey Jack; Italian Romano Fecorino, Old Asiago, Gorgonzola, Incanestrato and Caciocavallo; Spanish de Fontine; Aged Roumanian Kaskaval. Shefford _see_ Chapter 2. Silesian _Poland and Germany_ White; mellow; caraway-seeded. Imitated in the U.S.A. (see Schlesischer.) Sir cheeses In Yugoslavia, Montenegro and adjacent lands Sir or Cyr means cheese. Mostly this type is made of skimmed sheep milk and has small eyes or holes, a sharp taste and resemblance to both American Brick and Limburger. They are much fewer than the Saint cheeses in France. Sir Iz Mjesine _Dalmatia, Yugoslavia_ Primitively made by heating skim sheep milk in a bottle over an open fire, coagulating it quickly with pig or calf rennet, breaking up the curd with a wooden spoon and stirring it by hand over the fire. Pressed into forms eight inches square and two inches thick, it is dried for a day and either eaten fresh or cut into cubes, salted, packed in green sheep or goat hides, and put away to ripen. Sir Mastny _Montenegro_ Fresh sheep milk. Sir Posny _Montenegro_ Hard; skim sheep milk; white, with many small holes. Also answers to the names of Tord and Mrsav. Sir, Twdr _see_ Twdr Sir. Sir, Warshawski _see_ Warshawski Syr. Siraz _Serbia_ Semisoft; whole milk. Mellow. Skyr _Iceland_ The one standard cheese of the country. A cross between Devonshire cream and cream cheese, eaten with sugar and cream. It is very well liked and filling, so people are apt to take too much. A writer on the subject gives this bit of useful information for travelers: "It is not advisable, however, to take coffee and Skyr together just before riding, as it gives you diarrhea." Slipcote, or Colwick _England_ Soft; unripened; small; white; rich as butter. The curd is put in forms six by two inches for the whey to drain away. When firm it is placed between cabbage leaves to ripen for a week or two, and when it is taken from the leaves the skin or coat becomes loose and easily slips off--hence the name. In the middle of the eighteenth century it was considered the best cream cheese in England and was made then, as today, in Wissenden, Rutlandshire. Smältost _Sweden_ Soft and melting. Smearcase Old English corruption of German Schmierkäse, long used in America for cottage cheese. Smoked Block _Austria_ A well-smoked cheese in block form. Smoked Mozzarella _see_ Mozzarella Affumicata. Smoked Szekely _Hungary_ Soft; sheep; packed like sausage in skins or bladders and smoked. Smokelet _Norway_. A small smoked cheese. Soaked-curd cheese _see_ Washed-curd cheese. Sorbais _Champagne, France_ Semihard; whole milk; fermented; yellow, with reddish brown rind. Full flavor, high smell. Similar to Maroilles in taste and square shape, but smaller. Sorte Maggenga and Sorte Vermenga Two "sorts" of Italian Parmesan. Soumaintrain, Fromage de _France_ Soft; fine; strong variety from Upper Burgundy. Soybean _China_ Because this cheese is made of vegetable milk and often developed with a vegetable rennet, it is rated by many as a regular cheese. But our occidental kind with animal milk and rennet is never eaten by Chinese and the mere mention of it has been known to make them shiver. Spalen or Stringer _Switzerland_ A small Emmentaler of fine reputation made in the Canton of Unterwalden from whole and partly skimmed milk and named from the vessel in which five or six are packed and transported together. Sperrkäse _see_ Dry. Spiced _International_ Many a bland cheese is saved from oblivion by the addition of spice, to give it zest. One or more spices are added in the making and thoroughly mixed with the finished product, so the cheese often takes the name of the spice: Kuminost or Kommenost for cumin; Caraway in English and several other languages, among them Kümmel, Nokkelost and Leyden; Friesan Clove and Nagelkass; Sage; Thyme, cloverleaf Sapsago; whole black pepper Pepato, etc. Spiced and Spiced Spreads _U.S.A._ Government standards for spiced cheeses and spreads specify not less than 1-1/2 ounces of spice to 100 pounds of cheese. Spiced Fondue _see_ Vacherin Fondu. _France_ Spitz Spitzkase _Germany_ Small cylinder, four by one and a half inches. Caraway spiced, Limburger-like. _see_ Backsteiner. Sposi _Italy_ Soft; small; cream. Spra _Greek_ Sharp and pleasantly salty, packed fresh from the brine bath in one-pound jars. As tasty as all Greek cheeses because they are made principally from sheep milk. Stängenkase _Germany_ Limburger type. Stein Käse _U.S.A._ Aromatic, piquant "stone." A beer stein accompaniment well made after the old German original. Steinbuscher-Käse _German_ Semihard; firm; full cream; mildly sour and pungent. Brick forms, reddish and buttery. Originated in Frankfurt. Highly thought of at home but little known abroad. Steppe _Russia, Germany, Austria, Denmark_ German colonists made and named this in Russia. Rich and mellow, it tastes like Tilsiter and is now made in Denmark for export, as well as in Germany and Austria for home consumption. Stilton _see_ Chapter 3. Stirred curd cheese _U.S.A._ Similar to Cheddar, but more granular, softer in texture and marketed younger. Stracchino _Italy_ Soft; goat; fresh cream; winter; light yellow; very sharp, rich and pungent. Made in many parts of Italy and eaten sliced, never grated. A fine cheese of which Taleggio is the leading variety. See in Chapter