Chapter 3.

Cheshire-Stilton _England_ In making this combination of Cheshire and Stilton, the blue mold peculiar to Stilton is introduced in the usual Cheshire process by keeping out each day a little of the curd and mixing it with that in which the mold is growing well. The result is the Cheshire in size and shape and general characteristics but with the blue veins of Stilton, making it really a Blue Cheddar. Another combination is Yorkshire-Stilton, and quite as distinguished. Chester _England_ Another name for Cheshire, used in France where formerly some was imported to make the visiting Britishers feel at home. Chevalier _France_ Curds sweetened with sugar. Chevèlle _U.S.A._ A processed Wisconsin. Chèvre _see_ Fromages. Chèvre de Chateauroux _see_ Fromages. Chèvre petit _see_ Petìts Fromages. Chèvre, Tome de _see_ Tome. Chevretin _Savoy, France_ Goat; small and square. Named after the mammy nanny, as so many are. Chevrets, Ponta & St. Rémy _Bresse & Franche-Comté, France_ Dry and semi-dry; crumbly; goat; small squares; lightly salted. Season December to April. Such small goat cheeses are named in the plural in France. Chevretons du Beaujolais à la crème, les _Lyonnais, France_ Small goat-milkers served with cream. This is a fair sample of the railroad names some French cheeses stagger under. Chevrotins _Savoy, France_ Soft, dried goat milk; white; small; tangy and semi-tangy. Made and eaten from March to December. Chhana _Asia_ All we know is that this is made of the whole milk of cows, soured, and it is not as unusual as the double "h" in its name. Chiavari _Italy_ There are two different kinds named for the Chiavari region, and both are hard: I. Sour cow's milk, also known as Cacio Romano. II. Sweet whole milker, similar to Corsican Broccio. Chiavari, the historic little port between Genoa and Pisa, is more noted as the birthplace of the barbaric "chivaree" razzing of newlyweds with its raucous serenade of dishpans, sour-note bugling and such. Chives cream cheese Of the world's many fine fresh cheeses further freshened with chives, there's Belgian Hervé and French Claqueret (with onion added). (_See both_.) For our taste it's best when the chives are added at home, as it's done in Germany, in person at the table or just before. Christalinna _Canton Graubünden, Switzerland_ Hard; smooth; sharp; tangy. Christian IX _Denmark_ A distinguished spiced cheese. Ciclo _Italy_ Soft, small cream cheese. Cierp de Luchon _France_ Made from November to May in the Comté de Foix, where it has the distinction of being the only local product worth listing with France's three hundred notables. Citeaux _Burgundy, France_ Trappist Port-Salut. Clabber cheese _England_ Simply cottage cheese left in a cool place until it grows soft and automatically changes its name from cottage to clabber. Clairvaux _France_ Formerly made in a Benedictine monastery of that name. Claqueret, le _Lyonnais, France_ Fresh cream whipped with chives, chopped fine with onions. _See_ Chives. Clérimbert _see_ Alpin. Cleves _France_ French imitation of the German imitation of a Holland-Dutch original. Cloves _see_ Nagelkäse. Club, Potted Club, Snappy, Cold-pack and Comminuted cheese _U.S.A. and Canada_ Probably McLaren's Imperial Club in pots was first to be called club, but others credit club to the U.S. In any case McLaren's was bought by an American company and is now all-American. Today there are many clubs that may sound swanky but taste very ordinary, if at all. They are made of finely ground aged, sharp Cheddar mixed with condiments, liquors, olives, pimientos, etc., and mostly carry come-on names to make the customers think they are getting something from Olde England or some aristocratic private club. All are described as "tangy." Originally butter went into the better clubs which were sold in small porcelain jars, but in these process days they are wrapped in smaller tin foil and wax-paper packets and called "snappy." Cocktail Cheeses Recommended from stock by Phil Alpert's "Cheeses of all Nations" stores: Argentine aged Gruyère Canadian d'Oka French Bleu Brie Camembert Fontainebleu Pont l'Evêque Port du Salut Roblochon Roquefort Grecian Feta Hungarian Brinza Polish Warshawski Syr Rumanian Kaskaval Swiss Schweizerkäse American Cheddar in brandy Hopi Indian Coeur à la Crème _Burgundy, France_ This becomes Fromage à la Crème II (_see_) when served with sugar, and it is also called a heart of cream after being molded into that romantic shape in a wicker or willow-twig basket. Coeurs d'Arras _Artois, France_ These hearts of Arras are soft, smooth, mellow, caressingly rich with the cream of Arras. Coffee-flavored cheese Just as the Dutch captivated coffee lovers all over the world with their coffee-flavored candies, Haagische Hopjes, so the French with Jonchée cheese and Italians with Ricotta satisfy the universal craving by putting coffee in for flavor. Coimbra _Portugal_ Goat or cow; semihard; firm; round; salty; sharp. Not only one of those college-educated cheeses but a postgraduate one, bearing the honored name of Portugal's ancient academic center. Colby _U.S.A._ Similar to Cheddar, but of softer body and more open texture. Contains more moisture, and doesn't keep as well as Cheddar. College-educated Besides Coimbra several countries have cheeses brought out by their colleges. Even Brazil has one in Minas Geraes and Transylvania another called Kolos-Monostor, while our agricultural colleges in every big cheese state from California through Ames in Iowa, Madison in Wisconsin, all across the continent to Cornell in New York, vie with one another in turning out diploma-ed American Cheddars and such of high degree. It is largely to the agricultural colleges that we owe the steady improvement in both quality and number of foreign imitations since the University of Wisconsin broke the curds early in this century by importing Swiss professors to teach the high art of Emmentaler. Colwick _see_ Slipcote. Combe-air _France_ Small; similar to Italian Stracchino in everything but size. Commission _Holland_ Hard; ball-shaped like Edam and resembling it except being darker in color and packed in a ball weighing about twice as much, around eight pounds. It is made in the province of North Holland and in Friesland. It is often preferred to Edam for size and nutty flavor. Compiègne _France_ Soft Comté _see_ Gruyère. Conches _France_ Emmentaler type. Condrieu, Rigotte de la _Rhone Valley below Lyons, France_ Semihard; goat; small; smooth; creamy; mellow; tasty. A cheese of cheeses for epicures, only made from May to November when pasturage is rich. Confits au Marc de Bourgogne _see_ Epoisses. Confits au Vin Blanc _see_ Epoisses. Cooked, or Pennsylvania pot _U.S.A._ Named from cooking sour clabbered curd to the melting point. When cool it is allowed to stand three or four days until it is colored through. Then it is cooked again with salt, milk, and usually caraway. It is stirred until it's as thick as molasses and strings from a spoon. It is then put into pots or molds, whose shape it retains when turned out. All cooked cheese is apt to be tasteless unless some of the milk flavor cooked out is put back in, as wheat germ is now returned to white bread. Almost every country has a cooked cheese all its own, with or without caraway, such as the following: Belgium--Kochtounkäse Germany--Kochkäse, Topfen Luxembourg--Kochenkäse France--Fromage Ouit & Le P'Teux Sardinia--Pannedas, Freisa Coon _see_ Chapter 4. Cornhusker _U.S.A._ A Nebraska product similar to Cheddar and Colby, but with softer body and more moisture. Cornimont _Vosges, France_ A splendid French version of Alsatian Münster spiked with caraway, in flattish cylinders with mahogany-red coating. It is similar to Géromé and the harvest cheese of Gérardmer in the same lush Vosges Valley. Corse, Roquefort de _Corsica, France_ Corsican imitation of the real Roquefort, and not nearly so good, of course. Cossack _Caucasus_ Cow or sheep. There are two varieties: I. Soft, cured in brine and still soft and mild after two months in the salt bath. II. Semihard and very sharp after aging in brine for a year or more. Cotherstone _Yorkshire, England_ Also known as Yorkshire-Stilton, and Wensleydale No. I. (_See both_.) Cotrone, Cotronese _see_ Pecorino. Cotta _see_ Pasta. Cottage cheese Made in all countries where any sort of milk is obtainable. In America it's also called pot, Dutch, and smearcase. The English, who like playful names for homely dishes, call cottage cheese smearcase from the German Schmierkäse. It is also called Glumse in Deutschland, and, together with cream, formed the basis of all of our fine Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine. Cottenham or Double Cottenham _English Midlands_ Semihard; double cream; blue mold. Similar to Stilton but creamier and richer, and made in flatter and broader forms. Cottslowe _Cotswold, England_ A brand of cream cheese named for its home in Cotswold, Gloucester. Although soft, it tastes like hard Cheddar. Coulommiers Frais, or Petit-Moule _Ile-de-France, France_ Fresh cream similar to Petit Suisse. (_See_.) Coulommiers, le, or Brie de Coulommiers _France_ Also called Petit-moule, from its small form. This genuine Brie is a pocket edition, no larger than a Camembert, standing only one inch high and measuring five or six inches across. It is made near Paris and is a great favorite from the autumn and winter months, when it is made, on until May. The making starts in October, a month earlier than most Brie, and it is off the market by July, so it's seldom tasted by the avalanche of American summer tourists. Cow cheese Sounds redundant, and is used mostly in Germany, where an identifying word is added, such as Berliner Kuhkäse and Alt Kuhkäse: old cow cheese. Cream cheese _International_ England, France and America go for it heavily. English cream begins with Devonshire, the world-famous, thick fresh cream that is sold cool in earthenware pots and makes fresh berries--especially the small wild strawberries of rural England--taste out of this world. It is also drained on straw mats and formed into fresh hardened cheeses in small molds. (_See_ Devonshire cream.) Among regional specialties are the following, named from their place of origin or commercial brands: Cambridge Cottslowe Cornwall Farm Vale Guilford Homer's "Italian" Lincoln New Forest Rush (from being made on rush or straw mats--_see_ Rush) St. Ivel (distinguished for being made with acidophilus bacteria) Scotch Caledonian Slipcote (famous in the eighteenth century) Victoria York Crème Chantilly _see_ Hablé. Crème de Gien _see_ Fromage. Crème de Gruyère _Franche-Comté France_ Soft Gruyère cream cheese, arrives in America in perfect condition in tin foil packets. Expensive but worth it. Crème des Vosges _Alsace, France_ Soft cream. Season October to April. Crème Double _see_ Double-Crème. Crème, Fromage à la _see_ Fromage. Crème, Fromage Blanc à la _see_ Fromage Blanc. Crème St Gervais _see_ Pots de Crème St Gervais. Crèmet Nantais _Lower Loire, France_ Soft fresh cream of Nantes. Crèmets, les _Anjou, France_ A fresh cream equal to English Devonshire, served more as a dessert than a dessert cheese. The cream is whipped stiff with egg whites, drained and eaten with more fresh cream, sprinkled with vanilla and sugar. Cremini _Italy_ Soft, small cream cheese from Cremona, the violin town. And by the way, art-loving Italians make ornamental cheeses in the form of musical instruments, statues, still life groups and everything. Creole _Louisiana, U.S.A._ Soft, rich, unripened cottage cheese type, made by mixing cottage-type curd and rich cream. Crescenza, Carsenza, Stracchino Crescenza, Crescenza Lombardi _Lombardy, Italy_ Uncooked; soft; creamy; mildly sweet; fast-ripening; yellowish; whole milk. Made from September to April. Creuse _Creuse, France_ A two-in-one farm cheese of skimmed milk, resulting from two different ways of ripening, after the cheese has been removed from perforated earthen molds seven inches in diameter and five or six inches high, where it has drained for several days: I. It is salted and turned frequently until very dry and hard. II. It is ripened by placing in tightly closed mold, lined with straw. This softens, flavors, and turns it golden-yellow. (_See_ Hay or Fromage de Foin.) Creusois, or Guéret _Limousin, France_ Season, October to June. Croissant Demi-sel _France_ Soft, double cream, semisalty. All year. Crottin de Chavignol _Berry, France_ Semihard; goat's milk; small; lightly salted; mellow. In season April to December. The name is not exactly complimentary. Crowdie, or Cruddy butter _Scotland_ Named from the combination of fresh sweet milk curds pressed together with fresh butter. A popular breakfast food in Inverness and the Ross Shires. When kept for months it develops a high flavor. A similar curd and butter is made by Arabs and stored in vats, the same as in India, the land of ghee, where there's no refrigeration. Crying Kebbuck F. Marion MacNeill, in _The Scots Kitchen_ says that this was the name of a cheese that used to be part of the Kimmers feast at a lying-in. Cuajada _see_ Venezuela. Cubjac _see_ Cajassou. Cuit _see_ Fromage Cuit. Cumin, Münster au _see_ Münster. Cup _see_ Koppen. Curd _see_ Granular curd, Sweet curd and York curd. Curds and butter _Arabia_ Fresh sweet milk curd and fresh butter are pressed together as in making Crowdie or Cruddy butter in Scotland. The Arabs put this strong mixture away in vats to get it even stronger than East Indian ghee. Curé, Fromage de _see_ Nantais. D Daisies, fresh A popular type and packaging of mild Cheddar, originally English. Known as an "all-around cheese," to eat raw, cook, let ripen, and use for seasoning. Dalmatian _Austria_ Hard ewe's-milker. Dambo _Denmark_ Semihard and nutty. Damen, or Glory of the Mountains (Gloires des Montagnes) _Hungary_ Soft, uncured, mild ladies' cheese, as its name asserts. Popular Alpine snack in Viennese cafés with coffee gossip in the afternoon. Danish Blue _Denmark_ Semihard, rich, blue-veined, piquant, delicate, excellent imitation of Roquefort. Sometimes called "Danish Roquefort," and because it is exported around the world it is Denmark's best-known cheese. Although it sells for 20% to 30% less than the international triumvirate of Blues, Roquefort, Stilton and Gorgonzola, it rivals them and definitely leads lesser Blues. Danish Export _Denmark_ Skim milk and buttermilk. Round and flat, mild and mellow. A fine cheese, as many Danish exports are. Dansk Schweizerost _Denmark_ Danish Swiss cheese, imitation Emmentaler, but with small holes. Nutty, sweet dessert or "picnic cheese," as Swiss is often called. Danzig _Poland_ A pleasant cheese to accompany a glass of the great liqueur, Goldwasser, Eau de Vie de Danzig, from the same celebrated city. Darling _U.S.A._ One of the finest Vermont Cheddars, handled for years by one of America's finest fancy food suppliers, S.S. Pierce of Boston. Dauphin _Flanders, France_ Season, November to May. d'Aurigny, Fromage _see_ Alderney. Daventry _England_ A Stilton type, white, small, round, flat and very rich, with "blue" veins of a darker green. Decize _Nivernaise, France_ In season all year. Soft, creamy, mellow, resembles Brie. de Foin, Fromage _see_ Hay. de Fontine _Spain_ Crumbly, sharp, nutty. de Gascony, Fromage _see_ Castillon. de Gérardmer _see_ Récollet. Delft _Holland_ About the same as Leyden. (_See_.) Délicieux The brand name of a truly delicious Brie. Delikat _U.S.A._ A mellow breakfast spread, on the style of the German Frühstück original. (_See_.) de Lile, Boule French name for Belgian Oude Kaas. Demi-Étuve Half-size Étuve. (_See_.) Demi Petit Suisse The name for an extra small Petit Suisse to distinguish it from the Gros. Demi-Sel _Normandy, France_ Soft, whole, creamy, lightly salted, resembles Gournay but slightly saltier; also like U.S. cream cheese, but softer and creamier. Demi-Sel, Croissant _see_ Croissant Demi-Sel. Derby, or Derbyshire _England_ Hard; shape like Austrian Nagelkassa and the size of Cheshire though sometimes smaller. Dry, large, flat, round, flaky, sharp and tangy. A factory cheese said to be identical with Double Gloucester and similar to Warwickshire, Wiltshire and Leicester. The experts pronounce it "a somewhat inferior Cheshire, but deficient in its quality and the flavor of Cheddar." So it's unlikely to win in any cheese derby in spite of its name. Devonshire cream and cheese _England_ Devonshire cream is world famous for its thickness and richness. Superb with wild strawberries; almost a cream cheese by itself. Devonshire cream is made into a luscious cheese ripened on straw, which gives it a special flavor, such as that of French Foin or Hay cheese. Dolce Verde _Italy_ This creamy blue-vein variety is named Sweet Green, because cheesemongers are color-blind when it comes to the blue-greens and the green-blues. Domaci Beli Sir _Yugoslavia_ "Sir" is not a title but the word for cheese. This is a typical ewe's-milker cured in a fresh sheep skin. Domestic Gruyère _U.S.A._ An imitation of a cheese impossible to imitate. Domestic Swiss _U.S.A_ Same as domestic Gruyère, maybe more so, since it is made in ponderous 150-to 200-pound wheels, chiefly in Wisconsin and Ohio. The trouble is there is no Alpine pasturage and Emmentaler Valley in our country. Domiati _Egypt_ Whole or partly skimmed cow's or buffalo's milk. Soft; white; no openings; mild and salty when fresh and cleanly acid when cured. It's called "a pickled cheese" and is very popular in the Near East. Dorset, Double Dorset, Blue Dorset, or Blue Vinny _England_ Blue mold type from Dorsetshire; crumbly, sharp; made in flat forms. "Its manufacture has been traced back 150 years in the family of F.E. Dare, who says that in all probability it was made longer ago than that." (_See_ Blue Vinny.) Dotter _Nürnberg, Germany_ An entirely original cheese perfected by G. Leuchs in Nürnberg. He enriched skim milk with yolk of eggs and made the cheese in the usual way. When well ripened it is splendid. Doubles The English name cheese made of whole milk "double," such as Double Cottenham, Double Dorset, Double Gloucester. "Singles" are cheeses from which some of the cream has been removed. Double-cream _England_ Similar to Wensleydale. Double-crème _France_ There are several of this name, made in the summer when milk is richest in cream. The full name is Fromage à la Double-crème, and Pommel is one well known. They are made throughout France in season and are much in demand. Dresdener Bierkäse _Germany_ A celebrated hand cheese made in Dresden. The typical soft, skim milker, strong with caraway and drunk dissolved in beer, as well as merely eaten. Drinking cheeses Not only Dresdener, but dozens of regional hand cheeses in Germanic countries are melted in steins of beer or glasses of wine to make distinctive cheesed drinks for strong stomachs and noses. This peps up the drinks in somewhat the same way as ale and beer are laced with pepper sauce in some parts. Dry _Germany_ From the drinking cheese just above to dry cheese is quite a leap. "This cheese, known as Sperrkäse and Trockenkäse, is made in the small dairies of the eastern part of the Bavarian Alps and in the Tyrol. It is an extremely simple product, made for home consumption and only in the winter season, when the milk cannot be profitably used for other purposes. As soon as the milk is skimmed it is put into a large kettle which can be swung over a fire, where it is kept warm until it is thoroughly thickened from souring. It is then broken up and cooked quite firm. A small quantity of salt and sometimes some caraway seed are added, and the curd is put into forms of various sizes. It is then placed in a drying room, where it becomes very hard, when it is ready for eating." (From U.S. Department of Agriculture _Bulletin_ No. 608.) Dubreala _see_ Brina. Duel _Austria_ Soft; skim milk; hand type; two by two by one-inch cube. Dunlop _Scotland_ One of the national cheeses of Scotland, but now far behind Cheddar, which it resembles, although it is closer in texture and moister. Semihard; white; sharp; buttery; tangy and rich in flavor. It is one of the "toasting cheeses" resembling Lancashire, too, in form and weight. Made in Ayr, Lanark and Renfrew and sold in the markets of Kilmarnock, Kirkcudbright and Wigtown. Durak _Turkey_ Mixed with butter; mellow and smoky. Costs three dollars a pound. Duralag, or Bgug-Panir _Armenia_ Sheep; semisoft to brittle hard; square; sharp but mellow and tangy with herbs. Sometimes salty from lying in a brine bath from two days to two months. Durmar, Rarush _see_ Rarush. Dutch _Holland_ Cream cheese of skim milk, very perishable spread. Dutch cheese American vernacular for cottage or pot cheese. Dutch Cream Cheese _England_ Made in England although called Dutch. Contains eggs, and is therefore richer than Dutch cream cheese in Holland itself. In America we call the original Holland-kind Dutch, cottage, pot, and farmer. Dutch Mill _U.S.A._ A specialty of Oakland, California. Dutch Red Balls English name for Edam. E Echourgnac, Trappe d' _Périgord, France_ Trappist monastery Port-Salut made in Limousin. Edam _see_ Chapter 3. Egg _Finland_ Semihard. One of the few cheeses made by adding eggs to the curds. Others are Dutch Cream Cheese of England; German Dotter; French Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese), and Westphalian. Authorities agree that these should be labeled "egg cheese" so the buyers won't be fooled by their richness. The Finns age their eggs even as the Chinese ripen their hundred-year-old eggs, by burying them in grain, as all Scandinavians do, and the Scotch as well, in the oat bin. But none of them is left a century to ripen, as eggs are said to be in China. Elbinger, or Elbing _West Prussia_ Hard; crumbly; sharp. Made of whole milk except in winter when it is skimmed. Also known as Werderkäse and Niederungskäse. Ekiwani _Caucasus_ Hard; sheep; white; sharp; salty with some of the brine it's bathed in. Elisavetpolen, or Eriwani _Caucasus_ Hard; sheep; sweetish-sharp and slightly salty when fresh from the brine bath. Also called Kasach (Cossack), Tali, Kurini and Karab in different locales. Elmo Table _Italy_ Soft, mellow, tasty. Emiliano _Italy_ Hard; flavor varies from mild to sharp. Parmesan type. Emmentaler _Switzerland_ There are so many, many types of this celebrated Swiss all around the world that we're not surprised to find Lapland reindeer milk cheese listed as similar to Emmentaler of the hardest variety. (_See_ Chapter 3, _also_ Vacherin Fondu.) "En enveloppe" French phrase of packaged cheese, "in the envelope." Similar to English packet and our process. Raw natural cheese the French refer to frankly as _nu_, "in the nude." Engadine _Graubünden, Switzerland_ Semihard; mild; tangy-sweet. English Dairy _England and U.S.A._ Extra-hard, crumbly and sharp. Resembles Cheddar and has long been imitated in the States, chiefly as a cooking cheese. Entrechaux, le Cachat d' _see_ Cachat. Epoisses, Fromage d' _Côte d'Or, Upper Burgundy, France_ Soft, small cylinder with flattened end, about five inches across. The season is from November to July. Equally proud of their wine and cheese, the Burgundians marry white wine or _marc_ to d'Epoisses in making _confits_ with that name. Erbo _Italy_ Similar to Gorgonzola. The Galvani cheesemakers of Italy who put out both Bel Paese and Taleggio also export Erbo to our shores. Erce _Languedoc, France_ Soft, smooth and sharp. A winter cheese in season only from November to May. Eriwani _see_ Elisavetpolen. Ervy _Champagne, France_ Soft; yellow rind; smooth; tangy; piquant; seven by two-and-a-half inches, weight four pounds. Resembles Camembert. A washed cheese, also known as Fromage de Troyes. In season November to May. Essex _U.S.A._ Imitation of an extinct or at least dormant English type. Estrella _see_ Serra da Estrella. Étuve and Demi-Étuve _Holland_ Semihard; smooth; mellow. In full size and demi (half) size. In season all year. Evarglice _Yugoslavia_ Sharp, nutty flavor. Excelsior _Normandy, France_ Season all year. F Factory Cheddar _U.S.A._ Very Old Factory Cheddar is the trade name for well-aged sharp Cheddar. New Factory is just that--mild, young and tractable--too tractable, in fact. Farm _France_ Known as Ferme; Maigre (thin); Fromage à la Pie (nothing to do with apple pie); and Mou (weak). About the same as our cottage cheese. Farmer _U.S.A._ This is curd only and is nowadays mixed with pepper, lachs, nuts, fruits, almost anything. A very good base for your own fancy spread, or season a slab to fancy and bake it like a hoe cake, but in the oven. Farmhouse _see_ Herrgårdsost. Farm Vale _England_ Cream cheese of Somerset wrapped in tin foil and boxed in wedges, eight to a box. Fat cheese _see_ Frontage Gras and Maile Pener. Fenouil _see_ Tome de Savoie. Ferme _see_ Farm. Feta _see_ Chapter 3. Feuille de Dreux _Béarn, France_ November to May. "Filled cheese" _England_ Before our processed and food cheese era some scoundrels in the cheese business over there added animal fats and margarine to skimmed milk to make it pass as whole milk in making cheese. Such adulteration killed the flavor and quality, and no doubt some of the customers. Luckily in America we put down this vicious counterfeiting with pure food laws. But such foreign fats are still stuffed into the skimmed milk of many foreign cheeses. To take the place of the natural butterfat the phony fats are whipped in violently and extra rennet is added to speed up coagulation. Fin de Siècle _Normandy, France_ Although this is an "all year" cheese its name dates it back to the years at the close of the nineteenth century. Fiore di Alpe _Italy_ Hard; sharp; tangy. Romantically named "Flowers of the Alps." Fiore Sardo _Italy_ Ewe's milk. Hard. Table cheese when immature; a condiment when fully cured. Flandre, Tuile de _France_ A kind of Marolles. Fleur de Deauville _France_ A type of Brie, in season December to May. Fleur des Alpes _see_ Bel Paese and Millefiori. Floedeost _Norway_ Like Gjedeost, but not so rich because it's made of cow's milk. Fløtost _Norway_ Although the name translates Cream Cheese it is made of boiled whey. Similar to Mysost, but fatter. Flower _England_ Soft and fragrant with petals of roses, violets, marigolds and such, delicately mixed in. Since the English are so fond of oriental teas scented with jasmine and other flowers, perhaps they imported the idea of mixing petals with their cheese, since there is no oriental cheese for them to import except bean curd. Fodder cheese A term for cheese made from fodder in seasons when there is no grass. Good fresh grass is the essence of all fine cheese, so silo or barn-fed cows can't give the kind of milk it takes. Foggiano _Apulia, Italy_ A member of the big Pecorino family because it's made of sheep's milk. Foin, Fromage de _see_ Hay. Fondu, Vacherin _see_ Vacherin Fondu. Fontainebleau _France_ Named after its own royal commune. Soft; fresh cream; smooth; mellow; summer variety. Fontina _Val d'Acosta, Italy_ Soft; goat; creamy; with a nutty flavor and delightful aroma. Fontine, de _Franche-Comté, France_ A favorite all-year product. Fontinelli _Italy_ Semidry; flaky; nutty; sharp. Fontini _Parma, Italy_ Hard; goat; similar to Swiss, but harder and sharper. From the same region as Parmesan. Food cheese _U.S.A._ An unattractive type of processed mixes, presumably with some cheese content to flavor it. Forez, also called d'Ambert _France_ The process of making this is said to be very crude, and the ripening unusual. The cheeses are cylindrical, ten inches in diameter and six inches high. They are ripened by placing them on the floor of the cellar, covering with dirt, and allowing water to trickle over them. Many are spoiled by the unusual growths of mold and bacteria. The flavor of the best of these is said to resemble Roquefort. (From _Bulletin_ No. 608 of the U.S. Department of Agriculture, to which we are indebted for descriptions of hundreds of varieties in this alphabet.) Formagelle _Northwest Italy_ Soft, ripened specialty put up in half-pound packages. Formaggi di Pasta Filata _Italy_ A group of Italian cheeses made by curdling milk with rennet, warming and fermenting the curd, heating it until it is plastic, drawing it into ropes and then kneading and shaping while hot. Provolone, Caciocavallo and Mozzarella are in this group. Formaggini, and Formaggini di Lecco _Italy_ Several small cheeses answer to this name, of which Lecco is typical. A Lombardy dessert cheese measuring 1-1/4 by two inches, weighing two ounces. It is eaten from the time it is fresh and sweet until it ripens to piquance. Sometimes made of cow and goat milk mixed, with the addition of oil and vinegar, as well as salt, pepper, sugar and cinnamon. Formaggio d'Oro _Northwest Italy_ Hard, sharp, mountain-made. Formaggio Duro (Dry) and Formaggio Tenero _see_ Nostrale. Fort _see_ Fromage Fort. Fourme, Cantal, and la Tome _Auvergne, France_ This is a big family in the rich cheese province of Auvergne, where many mountain varieties are baptized after their districts, such as Aubrac, Aurilla, Grand Murol, Rôche and Salers. (_See_ Fourme d'Ambert and Cantal.) Fourme de Montebrison _Auvergne, France_ This belongs to the Fourme clan and is in season from November to May. Fourme de Salers _see_ Cantal, which it resembles so closely it is sometimes sold under that name. Fresa, or Pannedas _Sardinia, Italy_ A soft, mild and sweet cooked cheese. Fribourg _Italy and Switzerland_ Hard; cooked-curd, Swiss type very similar to Spalen. (_See_) Frissche Kaas, Fresh cheese _Holland_ Dutch generic name for any soft, fresh spring cheese, although some is made in winter, beginning in November. Friesian _see_ West Friesian. Fromage à la Creme _France_ I. Sour milk drained and mixed with cream. Eaten with sugar. That of Gien is a noted produce, and so is d'Isigny. II. Franche-Comté--fresh sheep milk melted with fresh thick cream, whipped egg whites and sugar. III. Morvan--homemade cottage cheese. When milk has soured solid it is hung in cheesecloth in a cool place to drain, then mixed with a little fresh milk and served with cream. IV. When Morvan or other type is put into a heart-shaped wicker basket for a mold, and marketed in that, it becomes Coeur à la Crème, heart of cream, to be eaten with sugar. Fromage à la Pie _see_ Fromage Blanc just below, and Farm Fromage Bavarois à la Vanille _France_ Dessert cheese sweetened and flavored with vanilla and named after Bavaria where it probably originated. Fromage Blanc _France_ Soft cream or cottage cheese, called à la Pie, too, suggesting pie à la mode; also Farm from the place it's made. Usually eaten with salt and pepper, in summer only. It is the ascetic version of Fromage à la Crème, usually eaten with salt and pepper and without cream or sugar, except in the Province of Bresse where it is served with cream and called Fromage Blanc à la Crème. Every milky province has its own Blanc. In Champagne it's made of fresh ewe milk. In Upper Brittany it is named after Nantes and also called Fromage de Curé. Other districts devoted to it are Alsace-Lorraine, Auvergne, Languedoc, and Ile-de-France. Fromage Bleu _see_ Bleu d'Auvergne. Fromage Cuit (cooked cheese) _Thionville, Lorraine, France_ Although a specialty of Lorraine, this cooked cheese is produced in many places. First it is made with fresh whole cow milk, then pressed and potted. After maturing a while it is de-potted, mixed with milk and egg yolk, re-cooked and re-potted. Fromage d'Aurigny _see_ Alderney. Fromage de Bayonne _Bayonne, France_ Made with ewe's milk. Fromage de Bôite _Doubs, France_ Soft, mountain-made, in the fall only. Resembles Pont l'Evêque. Fromage de Bourgogne _see_ Burgundy. Fromage de Chèvre de Chateauroux _Berry, France_ A seasonal goat cheese. Fromage de Curé _see_ Nantais. Fromage de Fontenay-le Comté _Poitou, France_ Half goat and half cow milk. Fromage de Gascony _see_ Castillon. Fromage de Pau _see_ La Foncée. Fromage de St. Rémy _see_ Chevrets. Fromage de Serac _Savoy, France_ Half and half, cow and goat, from Serac des Allues. Fromage de Troyes _France_ Two cheeses have this name. (_See_ Barberry and Ervy.) Fromage de Vache Another name for Autun. Fromage de Monsieur Fromage _Normandy, France_ This Cheese of Mr. Cheese is as exceptional as its name. Its season runs from November to June. It comes wrapped in a green leaf, maybe from a grape vine, suggesting what to drink with it. It is semidry, mildly snappy with a piquant pungence all its own. The playful name suggests the celebrated dish, Poulette de Madame Poulet, Chick of Mrs. Chicken. Fromage Fort _France_ Several cooked cheeses are named Fort (strong) chiefly in the department of Aisne. Well-drained curd is melted, poured into a cloth and pressed, then buried in dry ashes to remove any whey left. After being fermented eight to ten days it is grated, mixed with butter, salt, pepper, wine, juniper berries, butter and other things, before fermenting some more. Similar extra-strong cheeses are the one in Lorraine called Fondue and Fromagère of eastern France, classed as the strongest cheeses in all France. _Fort No. I_: That of Flanders, potted with juniper berries, as the gin of this section is flavored, plus pepper, salt and white wine. _Fort No. II_: That from Franche-Comté Small dry goat cheeses pounded and potted with thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. (_See_ Hazebrook.) _Fort No. III_: From Provence, also called Cachat d'Entrechaux. In production from May to November. Semihard, sheep milk, mixed with brandy, white wine, strong herbs and seasonings and well marinated. Fromage Gras (fat cheese) _Savoy, France_ Soft, round, fat ball called _tête de mort_, "death's head." Winter Brie is also called Gras but there is no relation. This macabre name incited Victor Meusy to these lines: _Les gens à l'humeur morose Prennent la Tête-de-Mort._ People of a morose disposition Take the Death's Head. Fromage Mou Any soft cheese. Fromage Piquant _see_ Remoudon. Fromagère _see_ Canquillote. Fromages de Chèvre _Orléanais, France_ Small, dried goat-milkers. Frühstück Also known as breakfast and lunch cheese. Small rounds two-and-a-half to three inches in diameter. Limburger type. Cheeses on which many Germans and Americans break their fast. Ftinoporino _Macedonia, Greece_ Sheep's-milker similar to Brinza. G Gaiskäsli _Germany and Switzerland_ A general name for goat's milk cheese. Usually a small cylinder three inches in diameter and an inch-and-a-half thick, weighing up to a half pound. In making, the curds are set on a straw mat in molds, for the whey to run away. They are salted and turned after two days to salt the other side. They ripen in three weeks with a very pleasing flavor. Gammelost _Norway_ Hard, golden-brown, sour-milker. After being pressed it is turned daily for fourteen days and then packed in a chest with wet straw. So far as we are concerned it can stay there. The color all the way through is tobacco-brown and the taste, too. It has been compared to medicine, chewing tobacco, petrified Limburger, and worse. In his _Encyclopedia of Food_ Artemas Ward says that in Gammelost the ferments absorb so much of the curd that "in consequence, instead of eating cheese flavored by fungi, one is practically eating fungi flavored with cheese." Garda _Italy_ Soft, creamy, fermented. A truly fine product made in the resort town on Gardasee where d'Annunzio retired. It is one of those luscious little ones exported in tin foil to America, and edible, including the moldy crust that could hardly be called a rind. Garden _U.S.A._ Cream cheese with some greens or vegetables mixed in. Garlic _U.S.A._ A processed Cheddar type flavored with garlic. Garlic-onion Link _U.S.A._ A strong processed Cheddar put up to look like links of sausage, nobody knows why. Gascony, Fromage de _see Castillon._ Gautrias _Mayenne, France_ Soft, cylinder weighing about five pounds and resembling Port-Salut. Gavot _Hautes-Alpes, France_ A good Alpine cheese whether made of sheep, goat or cow milk. Geheimrath _Netherlands_ A factory cheese turned out in small quantities. The color is deep yellow and it resembles a Baby Gouda in every way, down to the weight Gérardmer, de _see_ Récollet German-American adopted types Bierkäse Delikat Grinnen Hand Harzkäse Kümmelkäse Koppen Lager Liederkranz Mein Kaese Münster Old Heidelberg Schafkäse (sheep) Silesian Stein Tilsit Weisslack (piquant like Bavarian Allgäuer) Géromé, la _Vosges, France_ Semihard: cylinders up to eleven pounds; brick-red rind; like Münster, but larger. Strong, fragrant and flavorsome, sometimes with aniseed. It stands high at home, where it is in season from October to April. Gervais _Ile-de-France, France_ Cream cheese like Neufchâtel, long made by Maison Gervais, near Paris. Sold in tiny tin-foil squares not much larger than old-time yeast. Like Petit Suisse, it makes a perfect luncheon dessert with honey. Gesundheitkäse, Holsteiner _see_ Holstein Health. Getmesost _Sweden_ Soft; goat; whey; sweet. Gex _Pays de Gex, France_ Semihard; skim milk; blue-veined. A "little" Roquefort in season from November to May. Gex Marbré _France_ A very special type marbled with rich milks of cow, goat and sheep, mixed. A full-flavored ambassador of the big international Blues family, that are green in spite of their name. Gien _see_ Fromage à la Crème. Gislev _Scandinavia_ Hard; mild, made from skimmed cow's milk. Gjetost _Norway_ A traditional chocolate-colored companion piece to Gammelost, but made with goat's milk. Glavis _Switzerland_ The brand name of a cone of Sapsago. (_See_.) Glattkäse, or Gelbkäse _Germany_ Smooth cheese or yellow cheese. A classification of sour-milkers that includes Olmützer Quargel. Cloire des Montagnes _see_ Damen. Gloucester _Gloucestershire, England_ There are two types: I. Double, the better of the two Gloucesters, is eaten only after six months of ripening. "It has a pronounced, but mellow, delicacy of flavor...the tiniest morsel being pregnant with savour. To measure its refinement, it can undergo the same comparison as that we apply to vintage wines. Begin with a small piece of Red Cheshire. If you then pass to a morsel of Double Gloucester, you will find that the praises accorded to the latter have been no whit exaggerated." _A Concise Encyclopedia of Gastronomy,_ by André L. Simon. II. Single. By way of comparison, the spring and summer Single Gloucester ripens in two months and is not as big as its "large grindstone" brother. And neither is it "glorified Cheshire." It is mild and "as different in qualify of flavour as a young and crisp wine is from an old vintage." Glumse _West Prussia, Germany_ A common, undistinguished cottage cheese. Glux _Nivernais, France_ Season, all year. Goat _France_ A frank and fair name for a semihard, brittle mouthful of flavor. Every country has its goat specialties. In Norway the milk is boiled dry, then fresh milk or cream added. In Czechoslovakia the peasants smoke the cheese up the kitchen chimney. No matter how you slice it, goat cheese is always notable or noble. Gold-N-Rich _U.S.A._ Golden in color and rich in taste. Bland, as American taste demands. Like Bel Paese but not so full-flavored and a bit sweet. A good and deservedly popular cheese none the less, easily recognized by its red rind. Gomost _Norway_ Usually made from cow's milk, but sometimes from goat's. Milk is curdled with rennet and condensed by heating until it has a butter-like consistency. (_See_ Mysost.) Gorgonzola _Italy_ Besides the standard type exported to us (_See_ Chapter 3.) there is White Gorgonzola, little known outside Italy where it is enjoyed by local caseophiles, who like it put up in crocks with brandy, too. Gouda _see_ Chapter 3. Gouda, Kosher _Holland_ The same semihard good Gouda, but made with kosher rennet. It is a bit more mellow than most and, like all kosher products, is stamped by the Jewish authorities who prepare it. Goya _Corrientes, Argentine_ Hard, dry, Italian type for grating. Like all fine Argentine cheeses the milk of pedigreed herds fed on prime pampas grass distinguishes Goya from lesser Parmesan types, even back in Italy. It is interesting that the nitrate in Chilean soil makes their wines the best in America, and the richness of Argentine milk does the same for their cheeses, most of which are Italian imitations and some of which excel the originals. Gournay _Seine, France_ Soft, similar to Demi-sel, comes in round and flat forms about 1/4 pound in weight. Those shaped like Bondons resemble corks about 3/4 of an inch thick and four inches long. Grana _Italy_ Another name for Parmesan. From "grains", the size of big shot, that the curd is cut into. Grana Lombardo _Lombardy_ The same hard type for grating, named after its origin in Lombardy. Grana Reggiano _Reggio, Italy_ A brand of Parmesan type made near Reggio and widely imitated, not only in Lombardy and Mantua, but also in the Argentine where it goes by a pet name of its own--Regianito. Grande Bornand, la _Switzerland_ A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. Granular curd _see_ Stirred curd. Gras, or Velvet Kaas _Holland_ Named from its butterfat content and called "Moors Head", _Tête de Maure_, in France, from its shape and size. The same is true of Fromage de Gras in France, called _Tête de Mort_, "Death's Head". Gras is also the popular name for Brie that's made in the autumn in France and sold from November to May. (_See_ Brie.) Gratairon _France_ Goat milk named, as so many are, from the place it is made. Graubünden _Switzerland_ A luscious half-dried sheep's milker. Green Bay _U.S.A._ Medium-sharp, splendid White Cheddar from Green Bay, Wisconsin, the Limburger county. Grey _Germany and Austrian Tyrol_ Semisoft; sour skim milk with salty flavor from curing in brine bath. Named from the gray color that pervades the entire cheese when ripe. It has a very pleasant taste. Gruyère _see_ Chapter 3. Güssing, or Land-l-kas _Austria_ Similar to Brick. Skim milk. Weight between four and eight pounds. H Habas _see_ Caille. Hablé Crème Chantilly _Ösmo, Sweden_ Soft ripened dessert cheese made from pasteurized cream by the old Walla Creamery. Put up in five-ounce wedge-shaped boxes for export and sold for a high price, well over two dollars a pound, in fancy big city groceries. Truly an aristocrat of cheeses to compare with the finest French Brie or Camembert. _See_ Chapter 3. Hand _see_ Chapter 3. Hard _Puerto Rico_ Dry; tangy. Harzkäse, Harz _Harz Mountains, Germany_ Tiny hand cheese. Probably the world's smallest soft cheese, varying from 2-1/2 inches by 1-1/2 down to 1/4 by 1-1/2. Packed in little boxes, a dozen together, rubbing rinds, as close as sardines. And like Harz canaries, they thrive on seeds, chiefly caraway. Harzé _Belgium_ Port-Salut type from the Trappist monastery at Harzé. Hasandach _Turkey_ Bland; sweet. Hauskäse. _Germany_ Limburger type. Disk-shaped. Haute Marne _France_ Soft; square. Hay, or Fromage au Foin _Seine, France_ A skim-milker resembling "a poor grade of Livarot." Nothing to write home about, except that it is ripened on new-mown hay. Hazebrook There are two kinds: I. Flemish; a Fromage Fort type with white wine, juniper, salt and pepper. Excessively strong for bland American tasters. II. Franche-Comté, France; small dry goat's milker, pounded, potted and marinated in a mixture of thyme, tarragon, leeks, pepper and brandy. Head Four cheeses are called Head: The French Death's Head. Swiss Monk's Head. Dutch Cat's Head. Moor's Head. There's headcheese besides but that's made of a pig's head and is only a cheese by discourtesy. Health _see_ Holstein. Herbesthal _Germany_ Named from a valley full of rich _herbes_ for grazing. Herkimer _U.S.A._ Cheddar type; nearly white. _See_ Chapter 4. Herrgårdsost, Farm House or Manor House _West Gothland and Jamtland, Sweden_ Hard Emmentaler type in two qualities: full cream and half cream. Weighs 25 to 40 pounds. It is the most popular cheese in all Sweden and the best is from West Gothland and Jutland. Herrgårdstyp _see_ Hushållsost. Hervé _Belgium_ Soft; made in cubes and peppered with _herbes_ such as tarragon, parsley and chives. It flourishes from November to May and comes in three qualities: extra cream, cream, and part skim milk. Hickory Smoked _U.S.A._ Good smoke is often wasted on bad cheese. Hohenburg _see_ Box No. II. Hohenheim _Germany_ Soft; part skimmed milk; half-pound cylinders. (See Box No. I.) Hoi Poi _China_ Soybean cheese, developed by vegetable rennet. Exported in jars. Hoja _see_ Queso de. Hollander _North Germany_ Imitation Dutch Goudas and Edams, chiefly from Neukirchen in Holstein. Holstein Dairy _see_ Leather. Holsteiner, or Old Holsteiner _Germany_ Eaten best when old, with butter, or in the North, with dripping. Holstein Health, or Holsteiner Gesundheitkäse _Germany_ Sour-milk curd pressed hard and then cooked in a tin kettle with a little cream and salt. When mixed and melted it is poured into half-pound molds and cooled. Holstein Skim Milk or Holstein Magerkäse _Germany_ Skim-milker colored with saffron. Its name, "thin cheese," tells all. Hop, Hopfen _Germany_ Small, one inch by 2-1/2 inches, packed in hops to ripen. An ideal beer cheese, loaded with lupulin. Hopi _U.S.A._ Hard; goat; brittle; sharp; supposed to have been made first by the Hopi Indians out west where it's still at home. Horner's _England_ An old cream cheese brand in Redditch where Worcestershire sauce originated. Horse Cheese Not made of mare's milk, but the nickname for Caciocavallo because of the horse's head used to trademark the first edition of it. Hum _Holland_ Brand name of one of those mild little red Baby Goudas that make you say "Ho-hum." Hushållsost, Household Cheese _Sweden_ Popular in three types: Herrgårdstyp--Farmhouse Västgötatyp--Westgotland Sveciatyp--Swedish Hvid Gjetost _Norway_ A strong variety of Gjetost, little known and less liked outside of Scandinavia. I Icelandic In _Letters from Iceland_, W.H. Auden says: "The ordinary cheese is like a strong Dutch and good. There is also a brown sweet cheese, like the Norwegian." Doubtless the latter is Gjetost. Ihlefield _Mecklenburg, Germany_ A hand cheese. Ilha, Queijo de _Azores_ Semihard "Cheese of the Isle," largely exported to mother Portugal, measuring about a foot across and four inches high. The one word, _Ilha_, Isle, covers the several Azorian Islands whose names, such as _Pico_, Peak, and _Terceiro_, Third, are sometimes added to their cheeses. Impérial, Ancien _see_ Ancien. Imperial Club _Canada_ Potted Cheddar; snappy; perhaps named after the famous French Ancien Impérial. Incanestrato _Sicily, Italy_ Very sharp; white; cooked; spiced; formed into large round "heads" from fifteen to twenty pounds. _See_ Majocchino, a kind made with the three milks, goat, sheep and cow, and enriched with olive oil besides. Irish Cheeses Irish Cheddar and Irish Stilton are fairly ordinary imitations named after their native places of manufacture: Ardagh, Galtee, Whitehorn, Three Counties, etc. Isigny _France_ Full name Fromage à la Crème d'Isigny. _(See.)_ Cream cheese. The American cheese of this name never amounted to much. It was an attempt to imitate Camembert in the Gay Nineties, but it turned out to be closer to Limburger. (_See_ Chapter 2.) In France there is also Crème d'Isigny, thick fresh cream that's as famous as England's Devonshire and comes as close to being cheese as any cream can. Island of Orléans _Canada_ This soft, full-flavored cheese was doubtless brought from France by early emigrés, for it has been made since 1869 on the Orléans Island in the St. Lawrence River near Quebec. It is known by its French name, Le Fromage Raffiné de l'Ile d'Orléans, and lives up to the name "refined." J Jack _see_ Monterey. Jochberg _Tyrol, Germany_ Cow and goat milk mixed in a fine Tyrolean product, as all mountain cheese are. Twenty inches in diameter and four inches high, it weighs in at forty-five pounds with the rind on. Jonchée _Santonge, France_ A superior Caillebotte, flavored with rum, orange-flower water or, uniquely, black coffee. Josephine _Silesia, Germany_ Soft and ladylike as its name suggests. Put up in small cylindrical packages. Journiac _see_ Chapter 3. Julost _Sweden_. Semihard; tangy. Jura Bleu, or Septmoncel _France_ Hard: blue-veined; sharp; tangy. K Kaas, Oude _Belgium_ Flemish name for the French Boule de Lille. Kackavalj _Yugoslavia_ Same as Italian Caciocavallo. Kaiser-käse _Germany_ This was an imperial cheese in the days of the kaisers and is still made under that once awesome name. Now it's just a jolly old mellow, yellow container of tang. Kajmar, or Serbian Butter _Serbia and Turkey_ Cream cheese, soft and bland when young but ages to a tang between that of any goat's-milker and Roquefort. Kamembert _Yugoslavia_ Imitation Camembert. Karaghi La-La _Turkey_ Nutty and tangy. Kareish _Egypt_ A pickled cheese, similar to Domiati. Karut _India_ Semihard; mellow; for grating and seasoning. Karvi _Norway_ Soft; caraway-seeded; comes in smallish packages. Kash _Rumania_ Soft, white, somewhat stringy cheese named cheese. Kashcavallo, Caskcaval _Greece_ A good imitation of Italian Caciocavallo. Kasher, or Caher, Penner _Turkey_ Hard; white; sharp. Kash Kwan _Bulgaria and the Balkans_ An all-purpose goat's milk, Parmesan type, eaten sliced when young, grated when old. An attempt to imitate it in Chicago failed. It is sold in Near East quarters in New York, Washington and all big American cities. Kaskaval _Rumania_ Identical with Italian Caciocavallo, widely imitated, and well, in Greece, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Transylvania and neighboring lands. As popular as Cheddar in England, Canada and U.S.A. Kasseri _Greece_ Hard; ewe's milk, usually. Katschkawalj _Serbia_ Just another version of the international Caciocavallo. Katzenkopf, Cat's Head _Holland_ Another name for Edam. (_See_ Chapter 3.) Kaukauna Club _U.S.A._ Widely advertised processed cheese food. Kauna _Lithuania_ A hearty cheese that's in season all the year around. Kefalotir, Kefalotyi _Yugoslavia, Greece and Syria_ Both of these hard, grating cheeses are made from either goat's or ewe's milk and named after their shape, resembling a Greek hat, or Kefalo. Keg-ripened _see_ Brand. King Christian IX _Denmark_ Sharp with caraway. Popular with everybody. Kingdom Farm _U.S.A, near Ithaca, N.Y._ The Rutherfordites or Jehovah's Witnesses make Brick, Limburger and Münster that are said to be most delectable by those mortals lucky enough to get into the Kingdom Farm. Unfortunately their cheese is not available elsewhere. Kirgischerkäse _see_ Krutt. Kjarsgaard _Denmark_ Hard; skim; sharp; tangy. Klatschkäse, Gossip Cheese _Germany_ A rich "ladies' cheese" corresponding to Damen; both designed to promote the flow of gossip in afternoon _Kaffee-klatsches_ in the _Konditories_. Kloster, Kloster Käse _Bavaria_ Soft; ripe; finger-shaped, one by one by four inches. In Munich this was, and perhaps still is, carried by brew masters on their tasting tours "to bring out the excellence of a freshly broached tun." Named from being made by monks in early cloisters, down to this day. Kochenkäse _Luxembourg_ Cooked white dessert cheese. Since it is salt-free it is recommended for diets. Koch Käse _Germany_ This translates "cooked cheese." Kochtounkäse _Belgium_ Semisoft, cooked and smoked. Bland flavor. Kolos-monostor _Rumania_ Sheep; rectangular four-pounder, 8-1/2 by five by three inches. One of those college-educated cheeses turned out by the students and professors at the Agricultural School of Transylvania. Kolosvarer _Rumania_ A Trappist Port-Salut imitation made with water-buffalo milk, as are so many of the world's fine cheeses. Komijnekaas, Komynekass _North Holland_ Spiked with caraway seeds and named after them. Konigskäse _Germany_ A regal name for a German imitation of Bel Paese. Kopanisti _Greece_ Blue-mold cheese with sharp, peppery flavor. Koppen, Cup, or Bauden _Germany_ Semihard; goat; made in a cup-shaped mold that gives both its shape and name. Small, three to four ounces; sharp; pungent; somewhat smoky. Imitated in U.S.A. in half-pound packages. Korestin _Russia_ Semisoft; mellow; cured in brine. Kosher This cheese appears in many countries under several names. Similar to Limburger, but eaten fresh. It is stamped genuine by Jewish authorities, for the use of religious persons. (_See_ Gouda, Kosher.) Krauterkäse _Brazil_ Soft-paste herb cheese put up in a tube by German Brazilians near the Argentine border. A rich, full-flavored adaptation of Swiss Krauterkäse even though it is processed. Kreuterkäse, Herb Cheese _Switzerland_ Hard, grating cheese flavored with herbs; like Sapsago or Grunkäse. Krutt, or Kirgischerkäse _Asian Steppes_ A cheese turned out en route by nomadic tribes in the Asiatic Steppes, from sour skim milk of goat, sheep, cow or camel. The salted and pressed curd is made into small balls and dried in the sun. Kühbacher _Bavaria_ Soft, ripe, and chiefly interesting because of its name, Cow Creek, where it is made. Kuminost _Norway_ Semihard; caraway-seeded. Kumminost _Sweden_ This is Bondost with caraway added. Kummin Ost _Wisconsin, U.S.A._ Imitation of the Scandinavian, with small production in Wisconsin where so many Swedes and Norwegians make their home and their _ost_. Kümmel, Leyden, or Leidsche Kaas _Holland_ Caraway-seeded and named. Kümmelkäse _Germany and U.S.A._ Semihard; sharp with caraway. Milwaukee Kümmelkäse has made a name for itself as a nibble most suitable with most drinks, from beer to imported kümmel liqueur. L Labneh _Syria_ Sour-milk. La Foncée, or Fromage de Pau _France_ Cream cheese. Lager Käse _U.S.A._ Semidry and mellow. While _lager_ means merely "to store," there is more than a subtle suggestion of lager beer here. Laguiole, Fromage de, and Guiole _Aveyron, France_ An ancient Cantal type said to have flourished since the Roman occupation. Many consider Laguiole superior to Cantal. It is in full season from November to May. Lamothe-Bougon, La Mothe St. Heray _Poitou_ Goat cheese made from May to November. Lancashire, or Lancaster _North England_ White; crumbly; sharp; a good Welsh Rabbit cheese if you can get it. It is more like Cheshire than Cheddar. This most popular variety in the north of England is turned out best at Fylde, near the Irish Sea. It is a curiosity in manufacture, for often the curds used are of different ages, and this is accountable for a loose, friable texture. Deep orange in color. Land-l-kas, or Güssing _Austria_ Skim-milker, similar to U.S. Brick. Square loaves, four to eight pounds. Langlois Blue _U.S.A._ A Colorado Blue with an excellent reputation, though it can hardly compete with Roquefort. Langres _Haute-Marne, France_ Semihard; fermented whole milk; farm-made; full-flavored, high-smelling Limburger type, similar to Maroilles. Ancient of days, said to have been made since the time of the Merovingian kings. Cylindrical, five by eight inches, they weigh one and a half to two pounds. Consumed mostly at home. Lapland _Lapland_ Reindeer milk. Resembles hard Swiss. Of unusual shape, both round and flat, so a cross-section looks like a dumbbell with angular ends. Laredo _Mexico_ Soft; creamy; mellow, made and named after the North Mexico city. Larron _France_ A kind of Maroilles. Latticini _Italy_ Trade name for a soft, water-buffalo product as creamy as Camembert. Laumes, les _Burgundy, France_ Made from November to July. Lauterbach _Germany_ Breakfast cheese Leaf _see_ Tschil. Leather, Leder, or Holstein Dairy _Germany_ A skim-milker with five to ten percent buttermilk, all from the great _milch_ cows up near Denmark in Schleswig-Holstein. A technical point in its making is that it's "broken up with a harp or a stirring stick and stirred with a Danish stirrer." Lebanie _Syria_ Dessert cottage cheese often served with yogurt. Lecco, Formaggini di _Italy_ Soft; cow or goat; round dessert variety; representative of a cheese family as big as the human family of most Italians. Lees _see_ Appenzeller, Festive, No. II. LeGuéyin _Lorraine, France_ Half-dried; small; salted; peppered and sharp. The salt _and_ pepper make it unusual, though not as peppery as Italian Pepato. Leicester _England_ Hard; shallow; flat millstone of Cheddar-like cheese weighing forty pounds. Dark orange and mild to red and strong, according to age. With Wiltshire and Warwickshire it belongs to the Derbyshire type. An ancient saying is: "Leicester cheese and water cress were just made for each other." Leidsche Kaas _see_ Leyden. Leonessa A kind of Pecorino. Leroy _U.S.A._ Notable because it's a natural cheese in a mob of modern processed. Lerroux _France_ Goat; in season from February to September and not eaten in fall or winter months. Lescin _Caucasus_ Curious because the sheep's milk that makes it is milked directly into a sack of skin. It is made in the usual way, rennet added, curd broken up, whey drained off, curd put into forms and pressed lightly. But after that it is wrapped in leaves and ropes of grass. After curing two weeks in the leaves, they are discarded, the cheese salted and wrapped up in leaves again for another ripening period. The use of a skin sack again points the association of cheese and wine in a region where wine is still drunk from skin bags with nozzles, as in many wild and mountainous parts. Les Petits Bressans _Bresse, France_ Small goat cheeses named from food-famous Bresse, of the plump pullets, and often stimulated with brandy before being wrapped in fresh vine leaves, like Les Petits Banons. Les Petits Fromages _see_ Petits Fromages and Thiviers. Le Vacherin Name given to two entirely different varieties: I. Vacherin à la Main II. Vacherin Fondu. (_See_ Vacherin.) Levroux _Berry, France_ A goat cheese in season from May to December. Leyden, Komijne Kaas, Caraway Cheese _Holland_ Semihard, tangy with caraway. Similar Delft. There are two kinds of Leyden that might be called Farm Fat and Factory Thin, for those made on the farms contain 30 to 35% fat, against 20% in the factory product. Liederkranz _see_ Chapter 4. Limburger _see_ Chapter 3. Lincoln _England_ Cream cheese that keeps two to three weeks. This is in England, where there is much less refrigeration than in the U.S.A., and that's a big break for most natural cheeses. Lindenhof _Belgium_ Semisoft; aromatic; sharp. Lipta, Liptauer, Liptoiu _Hungary_ A classic mixture with condiments, especially the great peppers from which the world's best paprika is made. Liptauer is the regional name for Brinza, as well, and it's made in the same manner, of sheep milk and sometimes cow. Salty and spready, somewhat oily, as most sheep-milkers are. A fairly sharp taste with a suggestion of sour milk. It is sold in various containers and known as "pickled cheese." (_See_ Chapter 3.) Lipto _Hungary_ Soft; sheep; white; mild and milky taste. A close relative of both Liptauer and Brinza. Little Nippy _U.S.A._ Processed cheese with a cute name, wrapped up both plain and smoky, to "slice and serve for cheese trays, mash or whip for spreading," but no matter how you slice, mash and whip it, it's still processed. Livarot _Calvados, France_ Soft paste, colored with annatto-brown or deep red (also, uncommonly, fresh and white). It has the advantage over Camembert, made in the same region, in that it may be manufactured during the summer months when skim milk is plentiful and cheap. It is formed in cylinders, six by two inches, and ripened several months in the even temperature of caves, to be eaten at its best only in January, February and March. By June and afterward it should be avoided. Similar to Mignot II. Early in the process of making, after ripening ten to twelve days, the cheeses are wrapped in fresh _laiche_ leaves, both to give flavor and help hold in the ammonia and other essentials for making a strong, piquant Livarot. Livlander _Russia_ A popular hand cheese. A most unusual variety because the cheese itself is red, not the rind. Locatelli _Italy_ A brand of Pecorino differing slightly from Bomano Pecorino. Lodigiano, or Lombardo _Lodi, Italy_ Sharp; fragrant; sometimes slightly bitter; yellow. Cylindrical; surface colored dark and oiled. Used for grating. Similar to Parmesan but not as fine in quality. Longhorn _Wisconsin, U.S.A._ This fine American Cheddar was named from its resemblance to the long horn of a popular milking breed of cattle, or just from the Longhorn breed of cow that furnished the makings. Lorraine _Lorraine, Germany_ Hard; small; delicate; unique because it's seasoned with pistachio nuts besides salt and pepper. Eaten while quite young, in two-ounce portions that bring a very high price. Lumburger _Belgium_ Semisoft and tangy dessert cheese. The opposite of Limburger because it has no odor. Lunch _Germany and U.S.A._ The same as Breakfast and Frühstück. A Limburger type of eye-opener. Lüneberg _West Austria_ Swiss type; saffron-colored; made in a copper kettle; not as strong as Limburger, or as mild as Emmentaler, yet piquant and aromatic, with a character of its own. Luxembourg _U.S.A._ Tiny tin-foiled type of Liederkranz. A mild, bland, would-be Camembert. M Maconnais _France_ Soft; goat's milk; two inches square by one and a half inches thick. Macqueline _Oise, France_ Soft Camembert type, made in the same region, but sold at a cheaper price. Madridejos _Spain_ Named for Madrid where it is made. Magdeburger-kuhkäse _Germany_ "Cow cheese" made in Magdeburg. Magerkäse _see_ Holstein Skim Milk Maggenga, Sorte _Italy_ A term for Parmesan types made between April and September. Maguis _Belgium_ Also called Fromage Mou. Soft; white; sharp; spread. Maigre _France_ A name for Brie made in summer and inferior to both the winter Gras and spring Migras. Maile _Crimea_ Sheep; cooked; drained; salted; made into forms and put into a brine bath where it stays sometimes a year. Maile Pener (Fat Cheese) _Crimea_ Sheep; crumbly; open texture and pleasing flavor when ripened. Mainauer _German_ Semihard; full cream; round; red outside, yellow within. Weight three pounds. Mainzer Hand _German_ Typical hand cheese, kneaded by hand thoroughly, which makes for quality, pressed into flat cakes by hand, dried for a week, packed in kegs or jars and ripened in the cellar six to eight weeks. As in making bread, the skill in kneading Mainzer makes a worthy craft. Majocchino _Sicily, Italy_ An exceptional variety of the three usual milks mixed together: goat, sheep and cow, flavored with spices and olive oil. A kind of Incanestrato. Malakoff _France_ A form of Neufchâtel about a half inch by two inches, eaten fresh or ripe. Manicamp _French Flanders_ In season from October to July. Mano, Queso de _Venezuela_ A kind of Venezuelan hand cheese, as its Spanish name translates. (_See_ Venezuelan.) Manor House _see_ Herrgårdsost. Manteca, Butter _Italy_ Cheese and butter combined in a small brick of butter with a covering of Mozzarella. This is for slicing--not for cooking--which is unusual for any Italian cheese. Manur, or Manuri _Yugoslavia_ Sheep or cow's milk heated to boiling, then cooled "until the fingers can be held in it". A mixture of fresh whey and buttermilk is added with the rennet. "The curd is lifted from the whey in a cloth and allowed to drain, when it is kneaded like bread, lightly salted, and dried." Maqueé _Belgium_ Another name for Fromage Mou, Soft Cheese. Marches _Tuscany, Italy_ Ewe's milk; hard. Margarine _England_ An oily cheese made with oleomargarine. Margherita _Italy_ Soft; cream; small. Marienhofer _Austria_ Limburger type. About 4-1/2 inches square and 1-1/2 inches thick; weight about a pound. Wrapped in tin foil. Märkisch, or Märkisch Hand _Germany_ Soft; smelly; hand type. Maroilles, Marolles, Marole _Flanders, France_ Semisoft and semihard, half way between Pont l'Evêque and Limburger. Full flavor, high smell, reddish brown rind, yellow within. Five inches square and 2-1/4 inches thick; some larger. Martha Washington Aged Cheese _U.S.A._ Made by Kasper of Bear Creek, Wisconsin. (_See under_ Wisconsin in