Food and Flavor: A Gastronomic Guide to Health and Good Living by Henry T. Finck
introduction of chemicals for preservative purposes. The court which
5728 words | Chapter 2
investigated these charges, while admitting some of the alleged evils,
indulged, many people thought, in whitewashing; so the public at last
made up its mind that "something was rotten in the state of Denmark."
Particularly was it impressed by the statement that the food supplied
to the army was "not different from that generally sold to the public."
That admission made people ask themselves: "What, then, are _we_
eating?"
The result was a general awakening and investigation, a countrywide
search which revealed the shocking fact that the community was
harboring thousands of seemingly respectable citizens who were piling
up fortunes by plying the deadly trade of modern Borgias, slaughtering
infants and invalids and making even the robust feel uncomfortable most
of the time.
The chemicals used were formalin, boric and salicylic acid,
fluo-sylicate of ammonium, aniline dyes, and a number of secret
compounds that were sold to packers and dealers, enabling them to
doctor spoiled meats and other foods in such a way as to deceive the
purchaser and consumer into thinking them fresh and wholesome.
To realize the full extent of this nefarious traffic one has to go
back to the newspaper reports of the investigations and food tests,
especially in the year 1899, after the "embalmed beef" inquiry. I have
before me clippings that would fill fifty pages with gruesome details;
but a mere peep into this culinary chamber of horrors must suffice.
"The use of antiseptics as preservatives is becoming alarmingly great,"
declared Prof. A. S. Mitchell, analytical chemist of the Wisconsin
Dairy and Food Commission, before the Senatorial Committee on Pure
Food Investigation. Among the preservatives he named was a liquid
called "freezene," which he said, was almost pure formic-aldehyde, the
substance that several chemists at the military inquiry had claimed
to have found in the beef furnished the army. It acts disastrously
upon the tissues of the stomach, but was often put into the milk and
butter supplied to families. Butchers employed freely, especially
in "Hamburger steaks," sulphite of soda, which not merely arrests
digestion, but is, as another Government expert remarked, practically
the same he had used as a medical student to preserve corpses, and
later to disinfect houses where smallpox patients had lived.
The New York "Herald" of June 4, 1899, contained a page and a half of
exposures, with these headlines:
POISON AND ADULTERATION FOUND IN ALL FOOD PURCHASED BY THE "HERALD."
FORTY SAMPLES ANALYZED AND NOT ONE OF THEM WHAT IT PURPORTED TO BE. TEA
THAT CONTAINED ALMOST EVERYTHING BUT TEA LEAVES. SOME FACTS THAT EVERY
HOUSE-KEEPER SHOULD KNOW. THE CITY AUTHORITIES DO LITTLE.
One of the samples of what was sold as "tea" was "composed of refuse of
many kinds--hair, mouldy leaves from everything that grows but the tea
plant." Another sample contained "dust, seed-pods, foreign woody stems,
and unidentified refuse."
To cite one more of the two-score analyses made by the "Herald's"
expert (James C. Duff, consulting chemist to the New York Produce
Exchange): "The sample of American macaroni contains artificial yellow
coloring matter, egg-yolk color, composed of flour and the coloring
matter. This coloring matter has as its base chrome colors--substances
very poisonous. The genuine Italian macaroni contains nothing injurious
to health."
"Reports from analysts in other cities show that 92 per cent. of
the allspice examined is adulterated, 50 per cent. of cinnamon, 60
per cent. of ginger, 100 per cent. of mustard, and 70 per cent. of
pepper.... It is a matter of record that the demand for the materials
for adulteration has called into existence a branch of manufacturing
industry having for its sole object the production of articles
known as 'spice mixtures' or 'pepper dust.' They are sold by the
barrel as 'P. D. ginger,' 'P. D. pepper,' or 'P. D. cloves.' These
manufacturers openly advertise themselves as 'assorters and renovators
of merchandise....'"
The New York "Tribune" printed a report of an address made by a
representative of the Benchmen's Association of Retail Butchers who
said, regarding the upper West Side: "Decayed meats are chemically
treated to counteract odor and outer discoloration and are hawked on
the street corners on Saturday nights. The shoppers of that locality
are after something cheap, and here they get it. Resulting illness is
ascribed to a mysterious Providence or anything rather than the 'nice
tender broilers, two for a quarter,' that they had for Sunday's dinner.
The police say the matter is one for the Health Department, and the
Health Department refers your complaints to its inspectors. These are
paid from $1,200 to $1,400 a year, and to my positive knowledge not one
of them has entered our shops for the last seven years. For all the
Health Department knows, we might have been selling spoiled meat all
that time."
A Philadelphian investigator of adulterated food, H. Wharton Amberling,
wrote: "There has been adulteration for ages. It is born of the same
parentage as robbery, perjury, arson and murder. It has grown in
enormity because the law has not dealt with it as it has with other
crimes. The rapid progress of chemistry has attained most grateful
accomplishments, but the leprous hand of adulteration is using it to
fill our blood with the poison of disease and death."
"It is estimated," said the New York "Evening Post," "that the people
of the United States spend no less than five billion dollars a year
for food and that nine-tenths of this money is paid for articles of
food which are more or less adulterated. All food adulterations are
not injurious, though a great majority of them, probably nine-tenths,
are so, in greater or less degree.... The art of adulterating food
has been carried to a very fine point by American ingenuity and has
proved immensely profitable to those who practise it, while it has
undoubtedly worked great damage to the general health.... It is a wise
man who knows what he is eating nowadays."
[Illustration: A matter for the Health Department]
A report of the Connecticut Agricultural Experiment Station called
attention to the fact that eighty-nine samples of tea were all found
pure as a result of the federal law of 1897, which established a board
of seven experts to enforce the statute and forbade importation of the
adulterated article.
The American products were on the other hand in a woeful condition.
Sixty-three samples of fruit jelly examined showed adulteration in
two-thirds of the cases by starch, glucose, aniline dyes, and salicylic
acid. Pure jellies cost 25 cents a pound while these artificial
jellies cost but five cents. Out of 40 samples of marmalades and jams
only three were pure. Examination of nineteen samples of sausages and
oysters showed "embalming" by boric acid.
WHY THE CANDY WAS NOT EATEN.
Miss Alice Lakey, chairman of the food investigating committee of
the Food Consumers' League, made a collection, as the New York "Sun"
reported, of squares of flannel, a dozen of them, in brilliant hues of
green, red, pink, and other colors--all colored with the coal tar dyes
that came out of eatables and drinkables, she explained, adding: "It's
a wonder that our insides are not dyed all the colors of the rainbow.
"One of the meanest forms of adulteration I know," she further
remarked, "is the blackberry brandy, because that is bought for
invalids, aged and delicate persons, who hope to get a little strength
and appetite from it. Out of 600 samples examined, 460 contained no
trace of blackberries. They were made of crude spirits colored with
coal tar dyes.
"Did you ever hear the story," she continued, "of the kind-hearted New
York woman who invited a company of Italian girls who worked in a candy
factory to a Christmas party? She had an entertainment and Christmas
tree for them, and among other things was a box of fine chocolate
creams for each one. When they went away every child left her box of
candy on the chair behind her.
"'Why, aren't you going to take your chocolates?' said the surprised
hostess.
"'Oh, no,' they said in chorus; 'we make those!'"
That tells the whole story. The slaughter of the innocents and the
ruining of health of children by means of adulterated and poisoned
candies was for decades a national crime that would have justified
thousands of lynchings, if anything ever does justify such summary
meting out of punishment.
Dr. Shepard, State chemist of South Dakota, framed a series of menus,
on the plan of those published by the women's magazines, to assist
housewives in catering for families. Here are three, which show how any
family in the United States might have reasonably taken _forty doses of
chemical preservatives and coal tar dyes in one day_:
BREAKFAST
Sausages containing coal tar dye and borax
Baker's Bread containing alum
Butter containing coal tar dye
Canned Cherries containing coal tar dye and salicylic acid
Pancakes containing alum
Syrup containing sodium sulphate
DINNER
Tomato Soup with coal tar dye and benzoic acid
Cabbage and Corned Beef with saltpeter
Corn Scallops with sulphurous acid and formaldehyde
Canned Peas with salicylic acid
Catsup with coal tar dye and benzoic acid
Vinegar with coal tar dye
Mince Pie with boracic acid
Pickles with copperas, sodium sulphate and salicylic acid
Lemon Ice Cream with methyl alcohol
SUPPER
Bread and Butter with alum and coal tar dye
Canned Beef with borax
Canned Peaches with sodium sulphite, coal tar dye and salicylic
acid
Pickles with copperas, sodium sulphate and formaldehyde
Catsup with coal tar dye and benzoic acid
Lemon Cake with alum
Baked Pork and Beans with formaldehyde
Vinegar, coal tar dye
Currant Jelly, coal tar dye and salicylic acid
Cheese, coal tar dye
Physicians sometimes prescribe such chemicals, when they are indicated,
in very small doses. The Food Commissioner of North Dakota, Dr. Ladd,
reported in a bulletin that he found from five to fifteen grains of
boric acid to every pound of ham, dried beef, etc., examined; while
in hamburger steaks, sausages, etc., the amount ranged from twenty to
fifty grains a pound. The maximum dose of boric acid prescribed by a
physician is said not to exceed ten grains daily.
DR. WILEY'S POISON SQUAD.
Napoleon Bonaparte said that "soldiers march and fight on their
stomachs." If our soldiers, fed on "embalmed" beef and other chemically
treated food, had had much marching and fighting to do, Spain might
have won. As it was, the American soldiers who were killed or
invalided during that war, were martyrs to a nobler cause than that
of humiliating poor Spain. It was their sufferings that, as already
intimated, led to the national revolt against the wholesale poisoners
and adulterators for commercial profit.
As a matter of course, the parties accused showed fight. One of the
earliest battles was fought over borax, and it was in this battle that
Dr. Wiley first came before the general public prominently. During
the months from December, 1902, to July 1, 1903, he made a series of
experiments on twelve young men in Washington as to the influence
on the health of food containing boric acid or borax. Some of the
conclusions reached were thus summed up briefly:
When boric acid or its equivalent in borax is taken in food
in quantities not exceeding a half gram daily, no immediate
effects are observed; after a time there occur occasional
loss of appetite, a feeling of fullness in the head, gastric
discomfort, and general ill-feeling. Only the more sensitive
persons develop symptoms from the amounts named. When the
drug is given in larger and increasing doses, these symptoms
in accentuated form develop more rapidly; most common is
persistent headache with slight clouding of the mental
processes. The quantity of boric acid required to produce
definite symptoms varies greatly with different individuals.
In some, one to two grams daily produce decided distress;
in others, three grams cause little if any discomfort.
Conclusions regarding the use of less than half a gram daily
were not reached, but from the effect of the larger quantities
taken for a short time, it is reasonable to infer that smaller
doses during an extended period would also prove injurious.
The results in general indicate that it is not advisable
to use borax in articles of food intended for common and
continuous use. When placed in foods used only occasionally
and in small amounts, the quantity of the contained
preservative should be stated plainly, that the consumer may
know what he is eating.
One of the most interesting facts, and one known to few, in connection
with these experiments, is that Dr. Wiley actually began them with a
bias in favor of borax. He did not believe, he said, that borax was
a harmful preservative, but he was going to find out. This statement
aroused my suspicion. Knowing how much "graft" and "politics" there are
apt to be in such investigations, I made up my mind that Dr. Wiley was
a fraud and that he would undoubtedly give a verdict in favor of borax.
While in this frame of mind I wrote the following editorial for the New
York "Evening Post" (April 8, 1903):
Dr. Wiley, of the Department of Agriculture, seems to require
a long time to decide whether his "brigade of poison eaters,"
as the Washington wits have dubbed his free boarders, are
really eating poison or only harmless food preservatives
unjustly suspected of being injurious. It needed no elaborate
experiments to prove that drugged food may be eaten without
serious harm. Many of us are probably eating more or less
of drugged food all the time without actually having to be
taken to the hospital; but many others do suffer in health,
vitality and capacity for work from eating it. In regard to
salicylic acid and formaldehyde, Dr. Wiley himself wrote in
"Leslie's Weekly" two years ago that there is no doubt of the
pernicious influence of these preservatives in some cases.
He also said, truly, that "the public supervision should
look after the weak and diseased digestive systems rather
than the strong and vigorous." Why, nevertheless, he chose
to make his Washington experiments on the strongest young
men he could find is a mystery he has not explained. In the
"Lancet" of Nov. 30, 1901, an account was given of a series
of experiments with boric acid made by Dr. Rinehart, in which
the symptoms of poisoning disappeared as soon as the use of
the drug was given up. Further evidence is furnished in the
"Münchener Medicinische Wochenschrift" of Jan. 26. Dr. G.
Merkel, of Nuremberg, experimented with boric acid on eleven
patients, seven of whom promptly showed disturbance of the
gastro-intestinal tract. The inevitable inference from such
facts is either that the use of boric acid as a preservative
of food should be prohibited by law, or, at least, that the
law should require mention of its use on the label of
canned goods, and in butter, cream, milk and meat, in order
that those whose digestion is not as robust as that of Dr.
Wiley's select boarders may take warning.
[Illustration: HARVEY W. WILEY]
The fact that these remarks were widely copied showed that many other
editors shared my suspicions. Then came Dr. Wiley's verdict, which
proclaimed him the honest, bold, incorruptible champion of truth who
was soon to become respected, admired, and idolized by the whole
American public, with the exception of those who had commercial reasons
for disliking him.
Perhaps I may be pardoned for inserting here a reference to an amusing
incident that occurred during this controversy. Another article of
mine, in which I had spoken disrespectfully of borax, resulted the
following day in a visit to the office of the "Evening Post" by a
man who wanted to see the "borax editor." He was shown to my room,
and promptly proceeded to inform me that I was entirely mistaken in
thinking borax harmful. I replied that I considered borax one of the
most useful things in the world, the greatest of "dirt-chasers,"
indispensable on the wash stand and in the wash house; but as for
internal use, I had had days of discomfort which made me look on it
with feelings of genuine alarm.
"I'll tell you what I'll do!" retorted the man, who represented one of
the large borax companies. "I am willing to take a glass of water, put
in a tablespoonful of borax and drink it right before you." "That's
nothing," I replied; "I wouldn't hesitate to do the same thing. Borax
is not a deadly drug like arsenic or strychnine, it is a chemical
which, taken into the stomach in small doses day after day, week after
week, and month after month, acts as a cumulative poison, gradually
weakening even the strongest stomach; and, inasmuch as the stomach
is the source of most diseases, thus paving the way for all sorts of
troubles."[1]
CONDIMENTS VERSUS CHEMICAL PRESERVATIVES.
Until about three decades ago it was customary the world over to cure
meats with condimental substances, particularly salt, vinegar, sugar,
and wood smoke. These not only preserved the meats but developed their
inherent flavors, while adding others that were equally relished by
consumers, thus enabling them to enjoy their meals without disagreeable
and depressing after-effects.
[Illustration: The old-fashioned way]
All at once, like a devastating avalanche, the wholesale use of
non-condimental chemicals tumbled upon the country. Why the avalanche
grew so fast may be gathered from a few lines on page 37 of the second
edition of Dr. Wiley's admirable book, just referred to in a footnote;
lines which deserve to be printed in italics, and which every reader
should engrave on his memory:
_The chemicals employed are those known as germicides. In the
quantities used they neither impart a taste nor odor to a preserved
meat, but by their germicidal properties prevent the development
of organic ferments and thus make the preservation of meat far more
certain and very much less expensive. By the use of some chemicals the
salting, sugaring, and smoking of preserved meat may be done with very
much less care, in a very much shorter time, and at a very greatly
reduced expense. For this reason the practice has gained a great vogue,
not as a means of benefiting the consumers, but rather as a means
of enriching the packer and dealer. Chemical preservatives are also
highly objectionable because they keep meats apparently fresh, while in
reality changes of the most dangerous character may be going on. They
thus prevent the display of the red light danger signal._
Concerning this last point the London "Lancet" has used another and
equally forcible simile:
It is by no means certain that preservatives in small
quantities can prevent decomposition. They do stop
putrefaction and thus destroy the signs by which decomposition
is made evident to the senses. Their effect _resembles that of
tying down the safety valve of a steam engine_. The advocates
of food preservatives seem always to ignore, or to be ignorant
of, the opportunity afforded and advantage taken of their use
for dirty and fraudulent practices.
These remarks are of the utmost importance, for they call attention to
the fact that even if the chemical, non-condimental preservatives were
not slow poisons, it would be necessary to forbid their use because
they enable unscrupulous persons to make foods of the most nauseating
substances. Let me quote another expert, who states the case vividly:
Milk, eggs and fish are three foods especially which become
extremely dangerous when decomposition sets in. The chemicals
placed in them by dealers destroy the offensive taste and
odor, thus robbing nature of her means of protecting us from
danger. Many little children killed from eating ice cream and
bakery products never would have tasted them if the smell and
taste of the rotten eggs and putrid milk had not been hidden
by the chemicals. The vilest, most malodorous factory refuse
may be made pleasant to the sight, taste and smell through the
magical effects of benzoate of soda, saccharin and coal tar
dye. The coal tar dye gives a clear, translucent appearance to
the product; the saccharin sweetens it and benzoate of soda
embalms it so it will keep for a decade without spoiling.
These disguised putrid foods are additionally dangerous in hot
weather.
SCOTCHED, NOT KILLED.
The great outcry raised by all these startling revelations concerning
the unscrupulous methods of the food poisoners resulted in the passage,
in 1906, of the epoch-making Food and Drugs Act, which gave the United
States a most elaborate and minute set of laws for the protection of
the public and the punishment of offenders. The result was an immediate
and decided improvement in many departments, especially that of canned
fruits, concerning which Dr. Wiley wrote in 1911 that "the time is now
rapidly approaching when all such goods will be free of any imitation
or adulteration, and this will add greatly to their value in the
markets of the country."
In many other directions, however, the drugging of foods with slow
poisons continued. The snake was only scotched, not killed.
"If you took all the food in New York City to-day and put it in a big
tent down in Texas, I would throw away 40 per cent. of it," said Gaston
G. Netter of the Geneva White Cross Society (which is the International
Pure Food Association), in October, 1911. "The people here in New
York City are being hourly poisoned by food labeled as absolutely
pure. I buy it and test it every day and I know. I saw some sardines
marked 'pure sardines in olive oil.' They were a disintegrated mass of
decayed, poisonous fish, and the oil had never known an olive. A large
percentage of the vinegar used for preserving such things as prunes is
an acidulated preparation fatal to the lining of the stomach."
The vinegar sold by many grocers in defiance of the law is made with
acetic acid, which is prepared by the destructive distillation of wood.
So little of this is needed that the adulterator can make a gallon of
"vinegar" at a cost of two cents, or a barrel for a dollar. This, sold
in bottles, yields a profit of over $20 a barrel. Sometimes a trace
of malic acid or concentrated apple juice is added to give a reaction
which may _fool the analyst_. It is this poisonous stuff that is used
in American homes to dress salads and is put into bottles of chow chow,
chili sauce, and the pickles so dear to school children.
Concerning the cheap candies that are still dearer to the children,
Harry P. Cassidy in an address before the wholesale candy dealers
(reported in the New York "Sun" of March 10, 1912), said:
"We have found burnt umber in candy which is sold and guaranteed as
pure to the small shopkeepers. We have found stearin in it which
melts only at a temperature of 135 degrees Fahrenheit, whereas the
temperature of the human body is only 98.6 degrees. We have found
furniture glue and dangerous ether flavoring matter and paraffin and
shellac and many other injurious substances which the members of this
association handle."
Another speaker at this meeting, Prof. Charles La Wall, spoke of
lampblack as being used to color so-called licorice and of marshmallows
that had been blued with ultramarine, just as bluing is used in washing
clothes. Poisonous sulphuric acid may be contained in molasses,
glucose, shredded cocoanut and many other things. "As candies are often
composed chiefly of these four products, a child in buying a penny's
worth of candy may get four doses in one of the deadly sulphites such
as the cleaner uses in whitening our straw hats."
America is specially noted, as Rutledge Rutherford remarks in the
"National Food Magazine" (1912), for two things--its chemicalized food
and its infantile mortality. According to the estimate of the New York
food expert, Alfred W. McCann, three million persons in the United
States were made ill by adulterated foods in 1911.
That was five years after the passing of the Pure Food Law. The trouble
with that law is that it is not interstate. A dishonest man in one
State can do all the food "doping" he pleases as long as he does not
sell any of it in another State. Most of the States now have laws of
their own on this matter, but often they leave much to be desired.
What is worse, these laws are not enforced; or, if the criminals are
brought to bay, the punishment is so mild that it does not prevent a
repetition of the offense. "If a grocer knew that a can of tomatoes or
a can of sardines sold by him could be taken to the corner and analyzed
and if found bad that he would be prosecuted, the pure food law would
be a real thing," says Gaston G. Netter, who asserts that if New York
City would bring about such a reform--at a cost of perhaps $150,000 a
year--it would "do away with half the medical clinics."
Fines alone will not suffice to bring about a reform. We can hardly
follow the example of the Turks who, if a baker gives false weight or
adulterates his bread, cut off one of his ears and nail it to the door
post. But we could follow the example of the wise municipal officials
who compelled the Munich brewers to make honest beer, out of malt and
hops alone. At first, fines were imposed for using other materials, and
these fines were made larger and larger; but the brewers found they
could pay the highest fines and still save money by using chemicals.
Then the lawmakers changed their tactics; the "man highest up" was
threatened with imprisonment. The millionaire brewers had a pardonable
aversion to jail--and from that time on Munich beer became the best in
the world. Ere long, whole trainloads of it began to be sent daily in
all directions--to North Germany and Russia, to Paris and London, to
Vienna, and to the cities of Italy. The brewers had been compelled, at
pistol's point, to acknowledge the truth that, after all, in the long
run, honesty is the best policy.
Some of the largest American manufacturing firms have followed this
policy voluntarily, though the prices they have to pay for good fresh
material places them at a great disadvantage to the adulterators who
buy any rotten old thing and "renovate" it, or else make the article
entirely of chemicals.
"In four years," said Alfred W. McCann (in March, 1912), "the
Government has caught nearly fifty wholesale adulterators in the act of
shipping bogus vinegar from one State into another. In every instance
the Government won its case, but in every instance petty fines were
inflicted by the courts and the same offenders were caught again and
again.... Small fines have no deterrent effect on food frauds. The game
is too profitable to suffer extinction under any other influence than
jail sentences, and jail sentences have not been imposed in a single
case brought by the Government against food or drug adulterators."
Food and drug adulterators are wealthy men, but they are not stingy.
They gladly share their sordid earnings with the politicians who
protect them. "Why do the States delay in enacting uniform laws
patterned after the excellent national laws?" asks Mr. McCann; and his
answer tells the plain truth: "Each State has some powerful pet food
industry to protect and some weak legislators willing to do the bidding
of the fakers."
Every reader of this book perused in the newspapers the story of the
disgraceful conspiracy in Washington against Dr. Wiley, and remembers
vividly the nationwide outburst of indignation which came to the rescue
of the courageous chemist and made him a national hero. He remained
for the time being, but his enemies were not punished, although the
President promised to reform the Department of Agriculture. His failure
to do so is one of the principal reasons why he was not re-elected. Dr.
Wiley, seeing that his efforts to secure the enforcement of the Pure
Food Laws were useless, at last resigned, and in "Good Housekeeping"
for October, 1912, he gave some of the reasons for this step.
The Remsen Board was created for the express purpose of reviewing
his decisions against food manipulators. It never missed a chance to
reverse them, to the huge delight of certain manufacturers and dealers.
Although the Moss investigating committee unanimously pronounced the
Remsen Board as wholly without authority, its decisions were followed
by officials of the Government; important matters referred to it were
held in abeyance. For instance, an exhaustive report of the experiments
made in the Bureau of Chemistry, which showed, in Dr. Wiley's opinion,
"the injuriousness of copper sulphate when added to foods, has been
hibernating in the Department of Archives for the past four years and
its use permitted in the interim."
The opposition to Dr. Wiley's decisions brought about "practical
paralysis in all matters pertaining to the addition of benzoic acid,
sulphurous acid, saccharine, sulphate of copper, and alum to food
products. As it was the addition of these bodies which constituted 95
per cent. of the total adulteration practised, it is easy to see that,
so far as adulteration was concerned, the food law became practically a
dead letter."
The physicians of the country, who, better than others, know the danger
of using drugs indiscriminately, sided with Dr. Wiley. At a meeting in
Pittsburg of the American Medical Association, representing 25,000
physicians and surgeons, that body "in spite of the decision of the
referee board, pledged itself uncompromisingly against benzoate of soda
and all other chemical forms of food preservatives."
How bitterly the war against Dr. Wiley and pure-food legislation was
carried on, not only at Washington but in various States with aid from
Washington, is illustrated by the following extract from a letter
written to Dr. Wiley by the Health Commissioner of Indiana:
It is not necessary to recall to you the tremendous
difficulties under which the State labored when it endeavored
to prevent the overthrow of its pure food law because of the
activities of the Department of Agriculture in behalf of the
firms who were seeking that end; how we were refused the
assistance of yourself and your chemists; how we had to compel
the getting of testimony by an order of the court of the
District of Columbia, and how, on the other hand, employees of
the Government known to be in sympathy with the firms bringing
suit against us were sent to Indianapolis to testify against
the State at the expense of the Department of Agriculture.
Another illustration of the war on the Pure Food Laws was given in the
New York "Globe" of Oct. 24, 1912, by Alfred W. McCann. After pointing
out that "there has been no let-up in attempts to deceive," and that
"food ideals depend absolutely on the integrity and zeal of a few
so-called fanatics like Dr. Wiley, who are thus far responsible for all
the advance we have made," he goes on to say:
In the State of Pennsylvania one of the most active pure food
workers, who has contributed energy and zeal to the cause of
the people, H. P. Cassidy, special agent of the Pennsylvania
Dairy and Food Department, after ten years of remarkable
service has been removed from office by the same kind of
pressure which finally disposed of Dr. Wiley.
Charges were made a few days ago against Mr. Cassidy, whose
activity had resulted in more than 8,000 arrests for food
adulterations in the City of Philadelphia alone. He demanded
a hearing before the governor. The hearing was granted. The
charges fell to pieces and Mr. Cassidy, like Dr. Wiley, was
vindicated. Two days later the Pennsylvania authorities
notified him that, although he was found guiltless, harmonious
relations between him and his chiefs had been strained, and
therefore for the good of the service it was decided that he
should be dismissed.
If the pure food movement were making the kind of progress
which it is thought to be making, such backward steps would
not be tolerated by the people, for the dismissal from office
of such a man as Cassidy will serve as a warning to other pure
food officials not to be too zealous in the discharge of their
duties.
The direct result of Cassidy's dismissal will show itself
in the State of Pennsylvania by a long line of cowardice in
applying the law. I make this prophecy and guarantee its
fulfilment.
It is needless to dwell further on these disgraceful efforts to thwart
the Pure Food Laws. Dr. Wiley did not exaggerate when in summing up the
situation he printed the following, in italics:
_No further blot upon the administration of law can, in my opinion,
be found in the history of the United States than this effort of the
United States Government to paralyze, belittle, and destroy a law
passed in the interests of the people of the country._
[Illustration][A table full of food]
II
VITAL IMPORTANCE OF FLAVOR
Startling as are the facts in the foregoing chapter, they do not
tell the whole story. We have seen that the non-condimental chemical
preservatives used by the food poisoners are highly objectionable on
two grounds: (1) because they are usually injurious and often deadly;
and (2) because they enable unscrupulous persons to use the filthiest,
rottenest material and so doctor it as to deceive the consumer into
believing it to be wholesome food, whereas it may, and often does,
result in ptomaine poisoning.
But there is a third indictment against the food sophisticators. The
chemicals they use, not only make the food they manipulate dangerous
to eat, but they also _diminish and often completely destroy its
Flavor_.
This destruction of the food Flavors may seem to those who have given
no special attention to this matter a thing to be regretted, indeed,
but not an actual crime. That it is a real crime, because it helps to
undermine the consumers' health, I shall demonstrate in this chapter.
It is necessary to know the facts now to be set forth in order to
realize the full significance of the deplorable state of affairs to
be revealed in the next chapter, entitled Our Denatured Foods. That
chapter will continue the subject of Ungastronomic America, wherefore
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