Chapter XII;

flavor decides permanence, 522; natural butter, 525; where pure food pays best, 529; opportunities in pineapples, 532; tree-ripened peaches, 536; fortunes from bananas and oranges, 539; melons and honey, 542; women and local flavor, 545; feeding flavor into food, 546; doubling farmyard profits, 552. Condiments, 28, 124, 140, 142, 354, 448, 469. Cook books, 146. Cooking: "plain," 11; science of savory, 117; flavor as guiding principle, 119; main object of, 121; soup, 122; boiling, 122; vegetables, 125; steaming, 129; broiling, 129; roasting, 130; gravy, 130; frying, 132; combining meat and vegetable flavors, 134; stewing, 134; cook books, 146; paper-bag, 148; casserole, 149; a noble art, 152; way to a man's heart, 153; vs. divorce, 155; factory and shop girls, 156; royalty in the kitchen, 158; American society women as cooks, 168; does it pay? 169, 173; future of, 171; school girls like it, 171; by boys and soldiers, 173; traveling schools, 176; in English schools, 177; in American, 181; fascination of, 184; lessons and the farm, 186; economics, 190; fireless cookers, 191; community kitchens, 197; electric, 200; an exact science, 204. Cooks: social caste of, 154; improved by praise, 165; earn more than teachers, doctors, and clergymen, 169; boys and soldiers as, 173; divine beings, 310. Copenhagen, 355. Corn, sweet, and corn bread, 451 (see bread); Burbank's improved, 514. Covent Garden market, 429. Crab-apples, 500. Cranberries, 371, 471. Crawfish, 371, 483. Cream, sweet or sour, for butter, 294, 387; in cheese, 388. D Darwin, 61, 191. Dates, 506. Dealers, pennywise, 390, 532. Deer, 366; farming, 479. Delicatessen stores, 341. Denatured foods, 66-116. Denmark, 176. De Reszke, Jean, 569. Dickens, 4. Dish-washing, 157. Domestic science, in schools, 181; and farm work, 186. Ducks, canvasback, 549. Dumas, A., 212, 214. Drunkenness, 576. Dutch cheese, 390. E Eating: a new psychology of, 61; teaching the art of, in schools, 187; talking about, 340; with the eyes, 524. Eggs, 547, 566. Electric cooking, 200. Eliot, C. W., 42. Ellwanger, 146, 216, 373. England: inns and steamers, 4; sauces and meats, 145; cook books, 147; royalty in the kitchen, 158; cooking lessons for men, 173; cooking in schools, 177; electric cooking, 201; need of variety, 207; wastefulness, 211; poultry, 221; market gardens, 279; mushrooms, 281; sardines, 315; beef dripping, 318; monotony in diet, 395; gluttony, 397; roast beef, 399; cattle-breeders, 400; Southdown mutton, 403; Wiltshire bacon, 409; grouse, 421; markets, 423, 429; fish and oysters, 423; vegetables, 430; fruit, 432; berries, 435; marmalades, jams, 437; breakfasts, 440; special dishes, 442; plum pudding, 443; cheese, 446; abuse of condiments, 448; pie, 466; tea, 577. Epicurism, 53, 189, 576. Escarole, 232. Eyes, eating with the, 524. F Factory and shop girls, 156, 183. Fairchild, D., 68, 506. Farmers, hints for (see governmental gastronomy, and commercial value of flavor). Farming, intensive will solve food problem, 553-8. Fat, importance of, in diet, 224; how digested, 225. Fireless cookers, 151, 172, 191. Fish: dyed, 66; storage, 67; smoked, 103, 344, 427; in Paris market, 275; fried, in Italy, 316; live, brought to kitchen, 355; ponds, in Germany, 360; frozen, 361; in London market, 423; sole, 426; American, 489. Flavor: superlative importance of, 40-64; helps the stomach, 53; creates an appetite, 56; why we eat chicken, 79; in butter, 105; guiding principle in cooking, 119; chief value of vegetables, 124; extending the flavor of meat, 134; from cheap cuts of meat, 137; condiments, 143; art of varying, 153; test, vs. vegetarianism, 142; fat, a source of, 388; in British meat, 399; little, in frozen meat, 402, or fish, 360; in codfish, 489, local, 499; decides value, 522; Burbank on, 522; what we spend most money on, 524; in nuts, 526; farmers and city greenhorns, 526; variety in, 535; fruit and cold storage, 539; in bananas and oranges, 540; in melons and honey, 543; extracts, 544; value of local, 545; feeding it into food, 546; how it differs from fragrance, 566; an aid to temperance, 575; "bouquet," 576. Fletcher and Fletcherizing, 11-53, 63, 227. Flour, 320, 373. Food and Drugs Act, 31. Food problem solved by intensive farming, 554-8. Food, soft, 50; adulterated, 14-39; denatured, 65-116; raw, 118; enjoyable plain, 52; importance of variety, 206; cheap nourishment, 190; (see meats, vegetables, fruits, cooking, pure food, etc.); why cost increases, 554. France: poule de Bresse, 69, 220; marketing poultry, 74; cook books, 147; respect for cooks, 155; society women in the kitchen, 156; kings as cooks, 159; culinary supremacy, 210-238; lessons in economy, 211; stock-pot, 212; soups, 212; sauces, 215; poultry, 220; use of vegetables, 243; restaurants, 244; fruit, 247; culinary word language, 253; Russian and American influences, 255; provincial flavors, 262; central market place, 267; fish, 275; marketing, 277; market gardens, 278; mushrooms and truffles, 280; fancy fruits, 284; bread, 285; bakers, 291; best butter how made, 292; cheese, 303; learned from Italy, 309; olive oil, 311; fondness for pork, 417; intensive gardening, 557. Freezene, 17. Frogs, 310. Fruits, canned, 31; raw, 117; in France, 285; England, 432; United States, 496; Burbank's improved, 517; cold storage, 538; pre-cooling, 539; (see apples, peaches, etc). Frying, 132, 316. G Game, in Germany, 365; England, 421; United States, 478. Garlic, 264, 336. Gastronomy: Preface, 43, 61, 64, 189-190, 231, 260, 394, 502, 526. Geese, 344, 368. Genius and kitchen problems, 161. Germany: cook books, 146; traveling cooking schools, 176; peasants and vegetables, 177; use of French words, 253; butter, 301; cosmopolitan cuisine, 339; delicatessen stores, 341; sauerkraut, 343; sausage and smoked ham, 345; live fish in kitchen, 355; fish ponds, 360; game and geese, 362; Berlin market, 371; bread, 373; menus on land and sea, 378, 382; cheeses, 385; opposition to frozen meats, 403; pork, 416; parcel post, 553. Gladstone, 43, 437. Gluten, 320. Gluttony, 52, 188, 397, 576. Gooseberries, 436. Governmental Gastronomy, 502. Grapefruit, 433. Grapes, 497, 518. Gravy, 131. Greenhorns, 530. Griddle cakes, 459. Grieg, 341. Grill, 130. Guinea fowl to replace game, 477. H Hale, J. H., 537. Ham, smoked, 66, 97, 351. Hamburg, 358. Harland, Marian, 151, 157, 167. Harvey, Fred, 5. Hawaiian Pineapples, 533. Hawthorne, Hildegarde, 241. Hayward, H., 114, 116, 298. Herrick, Christine Terhune, 151, 167. Hill, J. M., 167. Holland, cheese, 390. Honey, 14, 543. Hors d'oeuvres, 256. Howells, W. D., 328. Hungary, 374. Hunt, C. L., 132, 137. I Indians and vegetables, 452, 462. Italy: cook books, 147; cradle of modern cookery, 309; olive oil, 311; sardines, 314; fried foods, 316; macaroni, 319; cheese in place of meat, 328; abstinence, 329; birds, 334; garlic, 336; tomatoes, 337. J Jäger, G., 566. Jams, 437. Japan, 304, 325, 579. Johnson, Samuel, 396. K Kant, 61, 572. Kellogg, J. L., 89. Kitchen: society women in, 157, 169; royalty in, 158; private, vs. community, 197; electricity in, 200. L Lakey, Alice, 21, 105. Lane, Mrs. John, 433. Langworthy, C. F., 132, 137. Lemons, 231, 541. Lettuce, 233. Lobsters, 480. London: markets, 423; restaurants, 441 (see England). Looking down on others, 165, 205. M Macaroni, 319. McCann, A. W., 35, 38. Magazines, helpful, 186. Malaria, 563. Mangoes, 507. Maple syrup, 462. Marketing, in Paris, 266; Berlin, 371; London, 279, 423, 429. Mark Twain, 3, 367, 452, 466, 516. Marmalades, 437, 562. Marriage and food, 153. Mastication, 49. Maté, 580. Maxwell, W. H., 171. Meat: economical use of, 137; eating in the future, 139; less nutritious than cheese, 330; smoked (see smoked); frozen, 76, 402 (see beef, mutton, &c). Melons, 494, 542. Men: blameworthy, 13; way to heart of, 153; in kitchen, 159-163; medical, 166; as cooks, 173. Mexico, 5, 531. Middlemen, 553. Milk, 107, 548. Mitchell, M. J., 151. Munich, 379. Murray, 126. Mushrooms, 280. Mutton, 82, 403. N Naples, 326. Napoleon, 51. Netter, G. G., 34. Newnham-Davis, Col., 216, 262, 265, 311, 448. New Orleans, 239. Norway, 436. Nose, seven functions of, 569. Nuremberg, 349. Nuts, 500, 508, 517. O Odors, gastronomic value of, 63, 559-581. Oleomargarine, 110. Olive oil, 228, 311, 315. Oranges, 541. Oregon, 8, 483, 546. Osmosis, 81, 82, 91. Oven taste, 131. Oysters, 86, 428, 487. P Paderewski, I. J., 158, 164, 259, 285, 435, 488. Palatability (see flavor). Pancake, French, 246. Pancreas, 225. Paper-bag cookery, 148. Parcel Post, 553. Paris restaurants, 244 (see France). Parloa, Maria, 127. Pasteurized cream, for butter, 298. Pâté de foie gras, 370. Pawlow, Prof., 55, 225, 290, 561. Pawpaw, 502. Peaches, 68, 530, 531, 536. Peanut butter, 133. Pears, 527. Perfumery, 570. Persimmon, 500. Petite marmite, 250. Pickles, 343. Philadelphia, 550. Physicians and cookery, 167. Pies, 466, 560. Piesse, C. H., 564. Pigs: wild boar's meat, 82; for bacon, 411; fair play for, 418; dairy farming and, 415; (see pork, ham, bacon). Pineapples, 532. Pleasures of the table, 41-64. Plum pudding, 443. Plums, 512, 517. Pork, increasing popularity of, 417. Portland, Ore., 10. Potatoes, 320, 495, 513. Poultry: cold storage, 69-74; future of, in America, 72; marketing in France, 74; undrawn, horrors of, 76; why do we eat? 79; French varieties, 220; turkeys and guinea fowl, 473; feeding flavor into, 546, 552. Powell, E. P., 198, 497. Preservatives, chemical, 28-39, 40, 351. Psychology of eating, 61. Pure food experts, school girls as, 528. Pure Food laws, 31, 34, 342, 352. Q Quince, Burbank's improved, 516. R Raw foods, 30. Restaurants: in Paris, 244; Munich, 379; Berlin, 381; London, 447. Rhubarb, Burbank's, 515. Rice, 67. Roasting, 130. Rogers and Gray, 300. Romans, ancient, 309, 551. Ronald, Mary, 146, 167, 317, 318. Rorer, Mrs., 167. Rossini, 163. Ruskin, 42. Russia, 55, 226-256, 283. S Sage, Mrs. Russell, 478. St. Louis, 486. Sala, G. A., 424. Salads: digestive value of sour, 224; dressing for, 224-232; best varieties of, 232-241; fruit, 242. Salt, 142, 560 (see taste). Sardines, 314. Sauces, 142, 215. Sauerkraut, 343. Sausages, 345. Scallops, 488. Schoolgirls as food experts, 528. Schools: cooking in, 171, 177, 181; teaching the art of eating, 187. Scotch marmalades, 437. Sewage and oysters, 87, 428. Sicilian cooking, 310. Smell, sense of, 61, 63, chapt. XIII. Smoked meats and fish, 66, 97, 245, 344, 350, 414, 427. Snails, 276, 310. Soldiers as cooks, 173. Sole, 426. Soup, 123, 212. Sour (see taste). Spain, 147, 230, 336. Spices (see condiments). Steaming, 129. Stewing, 134. Stockpot, French, 211. Strassburg, 370. Strawberries, 435, 511. Sweet (see Taste). Switzerland, 374, 386. Syrup, 461. T Table d'hôte, philosophy of, 58. Tangelo, 508. Taste, sense of, 59-64, 559-566. Tastes, quarreling about, 574. Tea, 575. Terrapin, 549. Thackeray, 53, 265, 394. Thompson, Henry, 125, 136, 152, 207, 323. Toast, 290. Tobacco, 568, 571. Tomatoes, 236, 337, 431, 492. Truffles, 280. Turkeys, 473, 552. U Urbain-Dubois, 147. V Variety, 118, 206, 535. Veal, 372. Vegetables: raw, 117; value of, lies in flavor, 124; how to cook, 128; combined with meat, 134; as separate course, 243; in Paris market, 268; mostly water, 279; in London, 430; United States, 490; gaining ground, 490; weeds as, 505; improvable, 523; dangerous colors in canned, 530. Vegetarianism, 141. Venice, 324, 328. Venison, 365, 422. Vinegar, 32, 62, 224, 227. W Wallace, R., 410. Warner, C. D., 5. Washington State, 10, 483, 546. Webster, E. H., 106, 294, 300. Weeds as vegetables, 505. Wiley H. W.: on badly cooked food, 5; "honey," 14; poison squad, 24; condiments and chemical preservatives, 28; canned fruits, 31; Referee Board, 36, 39; cold storage decreases palatability, 72; drawn poultry, 80; fresh poultry, 84; oysters, 91; butter, 113; soup stock, 123; vegetables, 124; meats as condiments, 140; vegetarianism, 141; oil, 229; mushrooms, 282; fresh fish, 361; syrup, 462; mince meat, 571; eating with the eyes, 524; colored butter, 525; dangerous coloring matter, 530; canned fruits, 535; flavor in pork, 549. Wilson, Mrs. Woodrow, 169. Wine, bouquet of, 576. Wives, and cooking, 153, 182. Women: are they to blame? 11; as writers of cook books, 167; social caste of cooks, 154; queens and society women in the kitchen, 158; having an appetite, 179; beauty and olive oil, 230; commercial opportunities for, 545 (see wives, schools, cooking, etc.). Wright, H. S., 167. FOOTNOTES: [1] The argument that small doses of chemicals can do no harm has been demolished with merciless logic by Dr. Wiley in his "Foods and Their Adulteration" (second edition, pp. 38-40). This admirable book should be in every home, for daily reference. It gives, in untechnical language a vast amount of information regarding all our important foods, with hints as to the detection of dangerous or objectionable impurities. [2] They first appeared in the London _Lancet_, in July and August, 1903, and are reprinted in Fletcher's A. B.-Z. of Nutrition, pp. 96-179. [3] "A Preliminary Study of the Effects of Cold Storage on Eggs, Quail, and Chickens," by H. W. Wiley, with the collaboration of M. E. Pennington, G. W. Styles, Jr., B. J. Howard, and F. C. Cook. Washington, 1908. [4] New York: Henry Holt & Co., 1910. [5] See Bulletins Nos. 34, 141, 162, 193. A convenient summary of the results reached, up to 1911, may be found in J. Alan Murray's "The Economy of Food," New York: D. Appleton & Co. [6] Bulletin 43, U. S. Dept. of Agr. [7] "Economical Use of Meat at Home," by C. F. Langworthy and Caroline L. Hunt. Farmers' Bulletin 391. [8] Sir Henry Thompson devotes six valuable pages of his "Food and Feeding" (Chap. V. and Appendix) to the subject of stewing and braising. [9] La Poule. Production Intensive des Œufs. Par A. Linard, Paris: S. Bornemann. See also the same author's "La Poule. Production Intensive de la Chair"; and "Les Poules, Poulets et Chapons." Par François Rontillet, Paris: Le Bailly--for information as to the best French ways of feeding, housing, caponizing, and fattening fowls. [10] An excellent summary of what it is important to know about mushrooms and toadstools is included in Dr. Wiley's "Foods and Their Adulteration." Of the many books specially devoted to this subject Gibson's is perhaps the best. [11] "Butter-making on the Farm," Farmers' Bulletin No. 241. [12] Facts Concerning the History, Commerce, and Manufacture of Butter. Bureau of Animal Industry No. 56. Both these pamphlets contain much information of value to butter-makers. [13] _Fishy Flavor in Butter._ Circular 146, Bureau of Animal Industry, 20 pages, 1909. In September, 1912, the Department of Agriculture published another document, Bulletin 148 of the Bureau of Animal Industry, by L. A. Rogers, S. C. Thompson, and J. R. Keithley, in which "the superiority of butter made from pasteurized sweet cream is again demonstrated" in making butter for storage--for which most American butter at present is made. Attention is also called to the fact that pasteurization of cream serves as a protection to the health of the consumer by destroying such bacteria as those of tuberculosis and typhoid fever, "which are known to survive for long periods in butter made from unpasteurized cream." [14] See the details in the chapter on "American Sapporo," in my "Lotos Time in Japan." [15] "Good Cheer. The Romance of Food and Feasting." By F. W. Hackwood. This volume contains many interesting details relating to old English customs in the dining-room and kitchen, in homes, inns, and monasteries. [16] "Sheep: A Practical Handbook." With chapter on Management and Feeding. 100 pp. Price 1 shilling. London: Vinton & Co., Chancery Lane, Beam's Building. It is one of a series which includes cattle, horses, dogs, poultry, etc. [17] "Pigs for Breeders and Feeders." London: Vinton & Co. [18] For details regarding British cheeses see "Cheese and Cheese Making," by James Long and John Benson. London: Chapman & Hall. [19] "Food Value of Corn and Corn Products." Farmers' Bulletin No. 298, Washington, 1907. [20] "Cereal Breakfast Foods" is the title of Farmers' Bulletin No. 249, which tells about their composition, variety, digestibility, cost, adulteration, etc. American magazines thrive on the advertisements of breakfast cereals. [21] "The Production of Maple Syrup and Sugar." By A. Hugh Bryan, Chief Sugar Laboratory, Bureau of Chemistry, and William F. Hubbard, Forest Assistant, Forest Service, 1912. [22] "Turkeys: Their Standard Varieties and Management." Farmers' Bulletin, No. 200. [23] In his beautifully illustrated and valuable "Natural History of the American Lobster." From Bulletin of the Bureau of Fisheries, 1909. [24] New York: McClure, Phillips & Co., 1904. [25] See Bailey's "The Evolution of our Native Fruits" for useful hints along these lines. Transcriber's Note: