A guide book of art, architecture, and historic interests in Pennsylvania
1836. Bradford House, first stone house in this locality, was built,
23043 words | Chapter 15
1794, by Colonel William Bradford, a leader in the Whiskey Insurrection.
Residence, Dr. Francis Julius Le Moyne, native of this town, built in
1812, East Maiden Street near Main, is one of the landmarks; he was a
brilliant scholar, abolitionist, and promoter of the underground
railroad; he built the first crematory in America, located south of
Washington, first cremation, Baron de Palen, in 1876. Dr. Le Moyne was
cremated, 1879. The Presbyterian Church leads, with the other principal
denominations represented, also Jewish Synagogue. West from Washington,
the Campbell family founded the Disciples, or Christian Church, on
Buffalo Creek.
The Cumberland Road, built, 1811, brought an almost unbroken stream of
home seekers through this town, en route to the west; bridges and
culverts built about the same time still stand, models of solid masonry
and good engineering, one is between Washington and Claysville, town
named for Henry Clay, who had an interest in the road and frequently
came here.
CANONSBURG, laid out, 1787, by Colonel John Canon, population 10,632, a
portion of his first grist mill is on original location near Chartier’s
Creek. Jefferson College chartered, 1802; oldest building erected in
1830; on North Central Avenue, highest ground in town; was outgrowth of
Dr. John McMillan’s Log Cabin Latin School from 1782; first classical
school west of the Allegheny Mountains, his cabin stands on the campus,
marked by a bronze tablet, placed by the Phi Gamma Delta Fraternity,
custodians; having been removed from its original site, two miles south
of town; Franklin Hall, converted into a Memorial Hall in 1900, contains
portraits of college presidents and professors between 1802-69, also
collections of old books from several early libraries and literary
societies; may be seen by applying to any of the Memorial Hall
Committee. Stone edifice, opposite campus, built by John Roberts, Esq,
who conducted a school and kept post office here in 1801, parts of walls
are said to be part of stone Academy Building, erected by Colonel Canon,
for which he donated the ground in 1790; it was merged with the Log
Cabin School to form Jefferson College.
Two-story building at northeast corner of Central Avenue and Pike
Street, now grocery and hardware store, was site of the Joshua Emery’s
Hotel; here President James Monroe was entertained in 1817. On east side
of North Central Avenue, between Pike and College Streets, vacant lot,
site of Black Horse Tavern, notable as the resort of men who rifled the
mail sacks, when letters supposed to contain evidence against violaters
of the excise laws were stolen, _en route_ to Philadelphia from
Pittsburgh, 1794. Residence 62-68 East Pike Street, built by Dr.
Jonathan Letherman, before 1830, here Dr. John McMillan died in 1833;
the flower garden, with brick wall, was laid out by a landscape gardener
brought from Philadelphia by Dr. Letherman, original designs still
retained. The Hutchinson house, north side, West College Street, corner
of Hutchinson Avenue and adjacent lots, once the Hutchinson farm, was
where the “Whiskey boys” encamped in 1794, here also “musters” were held
before the Civil War. Chartiers Presbyterian (Hill) Church and burial
ground, one mile south of Canonsburg, is where Dr. John McMillan began
his pastorate in 1775, and was buried; here, Woodrow Wilson’s father was
also a former pastor; this site became a rendezvous for the Whiskey
Insurrectionists in 1794.
A natural park of seventy acres, within east side of the borough,
acquired by gift, is a beautiful breathing spot for the whole community.
About one mile northeast of Canonsburg, at Morganza, is the Western
Pennsylvania Industrial School; the Morgan Lands, eleven hundred acres,
was the home of General George Morgan, Indian agent in Pittsburgh
1775-79; a portion of his residence is still standing, about midway
between Morganza and Pollock; here he was visited by Aaron Burr in 1806.
General Morgan and his two sons were summoned to Richmond, as witnesses,
when Burr was tried for treason.
MONONGAHELA, an important town, first called Parkinson’s Ferry, then
Williamsport; the men here took an active part in the Whiskey
Insurrection, 1794. It furnished its quota of soldiers, known as the
Williamsport Rangers, for the War of 1812. Monument to Colonel Hawkins,
and to the Philippine veterans. James Gillespie Blaine was born at West
Brownsville in 1830. AMITY, southern part of Washington, near county
line, was the residence of Solomon Spalding, born in Connecticut,
minister of the Congregational Church; here he wrote the “Manuscript
Found,” or Book of Mormon; he was not a robust man, and spent many hours
writing this romance, with no idea of founding a religious sect; he
would read his book in the evenings to the men gathered in the general
store; died, 1816, age fifty-five, grave marked by large granite block.
XIII
FAYETTE COUNTY
Organized September 26, 1783; named in honor of the Marquis de
Lafayette; occupied prominent place in Indian, Revolutionary, and later
wars. On Jacobs Creek, a mile and a half above the point where it
empties into the Youghiogheny River, stands the ruins of the first
furnace for the production of pig iron, west of the Allegheny Mountains;
the furnace was put in blast November, 1790, and was known as the
Alliance Iron Works, operated by William Turnbull and Peter Marmie of
Philadelphia; it continued in blast until 1802 using the native ores
from the neighboring hillsides, and charcoal burned from the surrounding
forests; in 1792 the company cast four hundred six-pound shot for the
Fort Pitt Arsenal at Pittsburgh. Coal mining and coke are now the chief
industries. Connellsville coke is known throughout the industrial world.
Aboriginal inhabitants were the Shawnee Indians, who made various
earthworks and burial mounds, along the Monongahela and Youghiogheny
Rivers before their migration southward; it was part of the “Hunting
Grounds” of the Iroquois Confederation; the “Indian Title” was
extinguished by treaty at Fort Stanwix, 1768.
In 1749 Nemacolin, a Delaware Indian, guided Colonel Thomas Cresap from
Wills Creek, Cumberland, Maryland, to the mouth of Dunlap’s Creek,
where
[Illustration: FAYETTE COUNTY]
Fort Burd was erected in 1759, on site of “Redstone Old Fort,” an Indian
earthwork, now Brownsville; this was called Nemacolin’s trail, and was
the best course for the Ohio Company to reach the Ohio River. It was
followed by Washington, with Christopher Gist, to the French forts in
1753, the first actual step here, in conflict with France. During the
“French and Indian War” Fayette County was the scene of some of the most
thrilling events in American history. In 1745 Washington’s expedition to
gain possession of the Ohio Valley followed this trail to drive the
French from “The Forks” (Pittsburgh); he advanced to Gist’s Plantation
at Mount Braddock, then retreated to The Great Meadows, Fort Necessity,
marked by tablet at Mount Washington, where he was defeated by the
French under M. Coulon de Villers; previous to this, Washington had met
a detachment of French soldiers under M. Coulon de Jumonville, in which
Jumonville was killed, grave marked by tablet; first blood shed in
French and Indian War.
In 1755 Major General Edward Braddock’s expedition against Fort Duquesne
followed Nemacolin’s trail to Mount Braddock, thence over Catawba trail,
which enters Fayette County at mouth of Dunkards Creek; northward
through Uniontown, crossing the Youghiogheny (Stewarts Crossing) at
Connellsville, on through Mount Pleasant to Westmoreland County,
Hunkers, Circleville, to McKeesport; crossing the Monongahela, then
recrossing below at mouth of Turtle Creek. General Braddock, mortally
wounded in the battle of the Monongahela, was carried back over the road
he had opened to a point on the Cumberland Road, National Pike, where
he died and was buried; Washington read the Episcopal burial service
over him; grave marked by monument, erected by officers of his old
regiment, the “Coldstream Guards of England.” Braddock’s Road became the
main highway for settlers of Southwest Pennsylvania and Kentucky; the
entire course is full of historic interest; sites of encampments,
blockhouses and Indian forts; some are marked.
UNIONTOWN, county seat, formed, 1776; population 15,692. Courthouse,
Italian Renaissance; stone; architects, E. M. Butz and William Kauffman,
Pittsburgh. Presbyterian Church has fine Tiffany windows. Mr. James
Hadden, the historian of Fayette County, has a life-size bust of
Washington, cut by himself from the wood of a wild cherry tree, which
grew within the lines of Fort Necessity, in 1784. Washington owned the
land on which the tree stood. Two miles south is Fort Gaddis, only
frontier or settlers’ fort now standing in Fayette County, marked by
tablet in 1908; there were sixteen such forts in this county, built of
heavy logs, making durable houses for the frontiersmen, and safe retreat
for neighboring settlers.
CONNELLSVILLE; population 13,804. On grounds of the Carnegie Free
Library is a bronze statue of Colonel William Crawford, pioneer and
patriot, who, in 1765, built the first cabin home within limits of
Connellsville; killed by Indians in 1782; sculptor, Charles S.
Kilpatrick; tablet on base placed by Pennsylvania Historical Commission.
Trinity Lutheran Church, Italian Renaissance; native white sandstone,
trimmed with Indiana limestone; built, 1911; contains copy of
Bougereau’s “Resurrection.” In the tower is chime of twelve bells.
Architect, J. C. Fulton, Uniontown.
Lafayette was entertained, in 1825, at “Friendship Hill” near New
Geneva, the home of Albert Gallatin, member of Congress, Minister
Plenipotentiary from the United States to two courts of Europe, signer
of the Treaty of Ghent, Secretary of the Treasury in Jefferson’s and
Madison’s administrations; the house was built, 1789, enlarged, 1882,
and with the estate of seven hundred acres, is still of great beauty;
Albert Gallatin’s library remains just as he left it, on a high
eminence, overlooking the Monongahela River, on the edge of a precipice
three hundred feet above the river, the view is said to be similar to
that from Heidelberg Castle; the main entrance is near the old
Morgantown Road, an historic highway.
[Illustration: FRANKLIN COUNTY]
XIV
FRANKLIN COUNTY
Formed September 9, 1784; named for Benjamin Franklin, whose fame was
then world-wide. Earliest settlers Scotch-Irish, later Germans. Chief
industry agriculture, the land east is limestone and very fertile; west,
slate lands prevail, abounding in pure streams and rich meadows; the
Conococheague and Conodoquinet Creeks drain the central part of the
county, they are crossed by many stone arch bridges of graceful
architecture, the most notable is at Hiester’s Mill, three arches. The
principal road, now part of the Lincoln Highway, enters the county near
the historic Thaddeus Stevens Iron Works, built, 1837, at Caledonia,
which comprised about 20,000 acres, now in State Forestry Reservation,
and with the Mont Alto tract, makes a total of about 40,000 acres; the
mill and machinery were entirely destroyed, in 1863, by order of General
Early, on account of Stevens’ well-known activity as an abolitionist;
this road was route of greater part of Lee’s Army to and from the
battlefield of Gettysburg to Chambersburg; site of encampment before the
battle, a little beyond the hospital, east from Chambersburg. Other
roads leading west, of historic interest, are the Two Mountain, and the
Path Valley, formerly Indian trails.
County seat, CHAMBERSBURG, settled, 1764, population 13,171. In Centre
Square is a boulder with tablet commemorating the burning of
Chambersburg by Confederate Cavalry, July 1, 1864. Facing the square
are the brick courthouse, Southern colonial with fluted columns, cupola
and clock, contains portraits of judges; and the Central Presbyterian
Church, with Tiffany windows. Near are, Miller’s drug store on site of
Jack Tavern, where the first court was held in 1784, large mortar in
front was made from one of the pillars of the burned courthouse. United
States Post Office, Main and King Streets, built, 1912, semi-classic,
light colonial brick with gray stone facing. Masonic temple, built,
1823, saved by Confederate Masons when the town was burned. Zion
Reformed Church, built, 1812, exterior unchanged, particularly good
lines in steeple, has Tiffany windows. On King Street stands the house
John Brown occupied, second from Union Baptist Church; Nicklas store, on
Main Street near Queen, is site of old tavern where President Washington
and Alexander Hamilton spent the night, _en route_ to quell the Whiskey
Insurrection in 1794; Market House, Second and Queen Streets, built,
1830, brick, colonial, with clock tower.
WILSON COLLEGE comprises seven buildings, including Thompson Memorial
Hall, built, 1904, modified Gothic, with auditorium and fine organ,
architect, George C. Baum, Philadelphia. Falling Spring Presbyterian
Church and Chapel, organized, 1736, services first held in Benjamin
Chamber’s sawmill, present church built, 1803, chapel, 1873, native
stone, has Tiffany memorial windows to Judge and Mrs. Alexander Thomson,
parents of Frank Thomson, Esq. Rocky Spring Presbyterian Church, four
miles northwest from Chambersburg, built, 1794 by the Scotch-Irish,
colonial, with high, straight-backed pews, and original old high pulpit,
with sounding board, pewter Communion service from England and ten-plate
stoves. Dr. McIntosh preached here; has an interesting old graveyard,
keys kept at adjoining farmhouse.
The “MONT ALTO PARK,” formerly a famous picnic ground, now in charge of
State Forestry Commission, in the South Mountain, in old maps named “The
Valley of a Thousand Springs,” contains an old Protestant Episcopal
Church, near which is a native boulder, with granite tablet, marking the
place where Captain John E. Cook, of John Brown’s Army of Liberation,
was captured and disarmed, October 25, 1859, erected by the Kittochtinny
Historical Society, 1909. The STATE FOREST ACADEMY is here, where the
state educates its foresters, free of all cost; in 1900, the Bureau of
Forestry had grown to the point where it should be raised to the rank of
a department, of which the chief should be a member of the Governor’s
cabinet; there was strenuous opposition, but owing to the flood of
letters received by members of the Legislature, from the women of the
State Federated Clubs, the change was made, and Pennsylvania takes a
commanding place in the Forestry and Conservation movement. The WHITE
PINE, STATE SANATORIUM, NO. 1, free for consumptives, is also here, one
of the largest in the world. South is WAYNESBORO; good roads and notably
fine scenery in this section.
GREENCASTLE, birthplace of Robert McClelland in 1807, see Honor Roll;
directly north, on State Road, is monument, to mark where Corporal
William H. Rhil fell, first soldier killed on Northern soil in Civil
War.
MERCERSBURG, settled between 1730-35, population 1663; named for General
Hugh Mercer, who was killed in the Battle of Princeton. Mercersburg
Academy, Main Hall, built, 1833, used as hospital for wounded soldiers,
on retreat from Gettysburg, is a notable example of Southern colonial
architecture, with fine pillars and surmounted by a cupola; the ’88
Dormitory, given largely by class of 1888 of Princeton University, is
Tudor Gothic, brick and white stone; Kiel Hall, the refectory, interior,
baronial Gothic with frescoes and hangings by Tiffany; over mantel, in
wood, carved by John J. Maene, is “The Boar Hunt” from design by A.
Stirling Calder; notable collection of University shields in glass and
wood; mosaic armorial design in hearth; Laucks Hall, Tudor Gothic, has
mural painting in trophy room, “The Victor,” representing a Mercersburg
boy being crowned victor in athletic skill, artist, Edward Howland
Blashfield, also collection of portraits of distinguished men, including
President James Buchanan, Thomas A. Scott, and W. M. Irvine, by William
Merritt Chase; Dr. E. E. Highbee, by Carroll Beckwith; and Dr. Thomas
Apple by John W. Alexander; the new gymnasium, architect, Frank Miles
Day, has stained glass by Tiffany.
Historic houses on Main Street, one in which Harriet Lane Johnston was
born, built, 1788, by Colonel Robert Parker, friend of Lafayette, has
interesting interior woodwork; and residence of Dr. William Magaw, who
dressed Lafayette’s wounds after the battle of Brandywine, grounds now
in campus of Academy. Near Mercersburg, Irwinton Mills, a picturesque
spot on the west branch of the Conococheague,
[Illustration: THE VICTOR
In trophy room of the Mercersburg Academy
_Painted by Edwin H. Blashfield_]
birthplace of Jane and Elizabeth Irwin, who were married to the Harrison
brothers; Jane was mistress of the White House in 1841, Elizabeth became
the mother of President Benjamin Harrison. East of town, birthplace of
William Findlay, see Honor Roll. President James Buchanan was born at
Cove Gap, three miles from Mercersburg, birthplace marked by monument
erected by will of his niece, Harriet Lane Johnston; the house was later
removed to Lafayette Street, Mercersburg.
The famous Packer’s Path, used by pack horses, leads from Stony Batter
across the mountains to Pittsburgh. Site of Fort McCord, near Yankee
Gap, at North Mountain is where twenty-seven pioneer settlers were
massacred or carried into captivity by Indians in 1756, and thirty-two
provincial soldiers killed or wounded in their effort at rescue; marked
by native stone monument 1914, erected by the Enoch Brown Association,
and Pennsylvania Historical Commission. Northeast is the Enoch Brown
Park, with monument sacred to the memory of Enoch Brown and eleven
scholars massacred by Indians here in 1764, during the Pontiac War.
Large collection of Indian curios found near here are owned by Benjamin
Snively, Jr. South, is site of Fort Loudoun, marked.
Natives of Franklin County, in the World’s Honor Roll are, Samuel Adams,
Senator from Mississippi; George Washington Buchanan, United States
District Attorney for Dakota; James Buchanan, 1791-1868, schoolboy in
Mercersburg, lawyer, member of the legislature and of congress, Minister
to Russia, member of United States Senate, Secretary of State, Minister
to Great Britain, fifteenth president of the United States; Edmund R.
Calhoun, Rear Admiral, United States Navy; Hugh S. Campbell, United
States District Attorney for Dakota; George Chambers, 1786-1866, Judge
of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania; Matthew St. Clair Clark, Clerk of
the United States House of Representatives; Colonel Thomas Hartley
Crawford, Judge of the United States Court, District of Columbia, and
Commissioner for Indian Affairs; George Eyster, Assistant United States
Treasurer at Philadelphia; William Findlay, 1768-1846, State Treasurer,
United States Senator, Governor, Assistant United States Treasurer at
Philadelphia; Henry Harbaugh, 1817-67, theologian, poet, hymn-writer;
Robert Johnston, Collector of Excise, appointed by President Washington;
John Maclay, member of the convention at Carpenters’ Hall; Samuel
Maclay, United States Senator; William Maclay, first United States
Senator from Pennsylvania, died, 1825; Robert McClelland, United States
Secretary of the Interior, Governor of Michigan; James McLane, Member of
the Supreme Executive Council and of the Pennsylvania Council of
Censors, member of the convention at Carpenters’ Hall; John Williamson
Nevin, 1803-86, President of Franklin and Marshall College, theologian,
author, preacher; William M. Nevin, 1806-92, poet, teacher; James
Potter, Major General of the Continental Army; John Rowe,
Surveyor-General of Pennsylvania; Thomas A. Scott, Assistant Secretary
of War, President Pennsylvania Railroad; Frank Thomson, President
Pennsylvania Railroad; Joseph Williams, Chief Justice of the Supreme
Court of Iowa.
XV
MONTGOMERY COUNTY
Formed September 10, 1784; named in honor of General Richard Montgomery;
ranks third in state as to amount of money at interest paying state tax;
notable for fine suburban residences and for Washington’s itinerary and
Camp at Valley Forge, with 11,098 men. The Valley Forge Park Commission
acquired, in 1893, 472 acres, partly in Chester County, to maintain and
preserve forever the Revolutionary camp ground; American army here from
December 19, 1777, to June 19, 1778; soldiers built their huts 16 × 14
feet by 6½ feet high, each to accommodate twelve men, and bore their
sufferings from cold, starvation, and sickness like heroes; facts of
interest are:
Baron von Steuben came from Germany with his secretary, Peter S. Du
Ponceau, after having served as aide-de-camp to Frederick the Great; he
was appointed inspector general of the American army, and gave them
military training and discipline; Mrs. Washington came to Valley Forge
February 27, 1778; on May 18, a detachment under Marquis de Lafayette
moved to Barren Hill, but the British came in force against them, and
they retreated over Matson’s ford, Conshohocken, on a bridge of rafts;
on June 18, British evacuated Philadelphia, June 19, Washington and army
left Valley Forge in pursuit.
A marker is placed where General Sullivan and soldiers built a bridge
across the Schuylkill in 1778;
[Illustration: MONTGOMERY COUNTY]
redoubts and intrenchments have been restored; every point of interest
has been marked with granite tablets by various historical societies,
and by the states whose sons suffered here; bronze equestrian statue of
General Anthony Wayne, sculptor, H. K. Bush-Brown, made, 1908, marks
site of cantonment of his troops; near this is replica of a brigade
hospital, a soldier’s hut; and the bronze statue of General Friederich
Wilhelm von Steuben, granite pedestal with bronze relief; sculptor, J.
Otto Schweizer, erected, 1915, by National German-American Alliance.
National Memorial Arch, one of the most beautiful structures of its
kind, granite, designed by Paul P. Cret, was erected by the United
States Government in 1914, as a tribute to General Washington and his
regiments.
Washington’s headquarters (home of Isaac Potts), open daily, 8 A.M. to 6
P.M., is arranged as when he occupied it; Washington Inn was used as
army bakery during encampment, ovens in basement, originally home of
Colonel William Dewees, sheriff of Philadelphia, and owner, with John
Potts, of the forge; the Star Redoubt; the Defenders’ Gate; Cemetery;
and View from observatory on Mount Joy are interesting; Museum of
American History contains rare relics of Washington and the war.
Washington Memorial Protestant Episcopal chapel, and the Cloister of the
Colonies, in which each of the thirteen colonies will be represented by
a bay, in the center of each is the colonial seal in brass; ceiling,
hand carved oak, in the central boss of each, the state coat of arms;
the Cloister incloses the Garth in which is a bronze statue, “Sacrifice
and Devotion,” by Bela Pratt, in honor of the mothers of the nation;
the porch gates were wrought by Samuel Yellin, hammered in the iron are
the symbols of the four Evangelists, the lock has a miniature Liberty
Bell as a keeper, and the sliding bolt passes through the knapsack of a
Continental soldier, guarding the lock; windows in the chapel from
D’Ascenzo Studios. Waterman Monument marks the grave of only identified
soldier buried here.
Across the Schuylkill is Fat Land built by James Vaux; Washington slept
here September 21, 1777; the next day, Sir William Howe came here and
almost caught him. At Port Kennedy, one and one-half miles east of
Valley Forge, prehistoric bones of sabretooth tigers and extinct animals
are found. West of Valley Forge, Mill Grove, built, 1762, still
standing, residence of John James Audubon; here he studied, painted, and
wrote about “Birds of America” that have made him world-famous. Near, at
the mouth of Perkiomen Creek, Washington’s army encamped at Richardson’s
Ford, September 21, after marching all night, wet breast-high, and
hungry, one thousand men without shoes. Howe moved on west of Schuylkill
toward Reading, the depot of American supplies, having burned buildings
at Valley Forge on his way, and reached Phœnixville, Fountain Inn.
Washington marched his troops to Upper Hanover, within four miles of
Pottstown; his headquarters was residence of John Potts, built 1753; and
sent General Wayne with fifteen hundred men to harass the rear of
British army under General Gray, but they were outnumbered by the
British, and massacred at Paoli; marked by two monuments.
[Illustration: PERKIOMEN BRIDGE, BUILT 1798, COLLEGEVILLE
_Photograph by Fred P. Powers_]
POTTSTOWN, founded by John Potts, population 17,431; noted for its iron
industries since 1716; Mill Park Hotel, built, 1752, for residence of
founder, who was visited here by Washington. Friends Meeting House,
built, 1752, ground given by John Potts; he also gave ground for Zion
Lutheran Church, Georgian, 1753. Residences of founder’s three sons, Dr.
Jonathan Potts, Director General of Hospitals, Northern Department, in
the Revolutionary War, “Stowe,” west of Pottstown; Samuel Potts, east of
Pottstown, now “Hill School”; John Potts, Jr., a Tory judge, corner of
High and Hanover Streets, center of town, later, residence of General
Arthur St. Clair; Daughters of the American Revolution tablet on side.
Emmanuel Lutheran Church, architects, Lechman & Murphy, windows from
D’Ascenzo Studios; Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic;
brownstone; good memorial windows; was received in Convention in 1827;
Pottstown Hospital is controlled by Board of Women Managers, also the
Library, in which art exhibitions are shown.
Not until William Penn came was any effort made to manufacture iron in
Pennsylvania. Having iron furnaces of his own at Hawkhurst, England, he
was interested to encourage the industry here. Thomas Rutter, Bailiff of
Germantown from 1705-06, after Pastorius, moved up the Schuylkill on
patent of land from William Penn, deed still in the family, and
established in 1717, the “Pool Forge,” on Manatawny Creek, three miles
above Pottstown; he was first in Pennsylvania to manufacture iron; ore
is still being mined from the same beds. Among the great names in our
early iron industry, Rutter and Potts stand pre-eminent; the list of
forges and furnaces on the Manatawny and its branches, owned by their
intermarried families, before the Revolution, include Mount Pleasant
furnace and forge; Spring forge; Colebrookdale furnace and forge; Amity
forge; Rutter’s forge; Pool forges; Pine forge and Little Pine forge.
Near Boyertown is Ringing Rocks, a natural curiosity; they make a
complete octave. Michael Schlatter preached at Manatawny in 1748, also
in the Reformed Church, built in 1743. McCalls, or Glasgow Forge, on
Manatawny Creek, still in operation, was erected in 1725, on land
conveyed by William Penn to his son, John, in 1701; 14,600 acres; sold
to George McCall of Glasgow, Scotland, in 1735; who also had interest in
Colebrookdale furnace managed by Thomas Potts, Jr., which supplied
McCall’s forge with pig iron. Green Lane Forge, on Perkiomen Creek,
notable for its excellent blooms, was built in 1733 by Thomas Mayberry;
earliest settler in Marlborough township, who bought 1210 acres,
supplied with pig iron from Durham Furnace, Bucks County; equipment,
water wheel, huge bellows, tuyere pipe, open hearth forge, melting pots,
and conelike charcoal kilns.
MONTGOMERY COUNTY AUTOMOBILE TRIP TO VALLEY FORGE
(Return by Schuylkill River Drive to Philadelphia)
From Thirty-second and Market Streets, Philadelphia, out Lancaster
Avenue, first turnpike in United States, completed in 1794, pattern for
all subsequent roadbeds; main highway to Pittsburgh, once thronged with
teams, coaches, and Conestoga wagons with six horses, making twenty
miles a day; trip from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh and return, 333 miles,
in six weeks; wayside inns were located a mile apart. Originally part of
Indian trail; later King’s Highway; Lancaster Pike; Main Line; now
Lincoln Highway, made free of tolls July 15, 1917. OVERBROOK, Roman
Catholic Theological Seminary, St. Charles Borromeo, contains painting,
“Crucifixion,” by the late Thomas Eakens. The Pennsylvania Institution
for the Instruction of the Blind, designed by E. A. Allen, Spanish
Renaissance, 1898, architects, Cope & Stewardson, considered finest
residential school for blind in the world, particularly well-equipped
for the purpose. Montgomery County, near NARBERTH station, old Merion
meeting house, built, 1695, stone, sharp roof, curious pointed gables
over doors, peg is still shown where William Penn hung his hat when he
rose to preach; beyond is site of Penn cottage, built, 1695. MERION, Dr.
Barnes’ Art Museum, built of imported French limestone; modern art.
ARDMORE, St. Paul’s Lutheran Church and burial ground, log church,
built, 1769, present church, 1873. Red Lion Inn, still standing.
HAVERFORD, Haverford College for boys, founded in 1833 by Society of
Orthodox Friends, life is focused inward, neither sight nor sound of the
outer world reaches the campus of 225 acres, on which are farm and
woodland, cricket and football fields, tennis courts, a running track
and skating pond; the arrangement of buildings, chiefly modern colonial,
from 1833-1912, shows the result that comes only by slow growth and
care; architects, W. S. Vaux; Cope & Stewardson; W. F. Price; Baily &
Bassett. Library contains over four hundred Babylonian clay tablets,
from 2500 B.C.; Harris collection of Oriental manuscripts; seven hundred
reproductions in fictile ivory, of ancient and medieval carved ivories
in British Museum, from second to eighteenth centuries; Roberts
autographs, more than 11,000 items, covering period from late fifteenth
century to present day; some portraits of Haverford alumni. Old
Haverford meeting house, near Cobb’s Creek, stone, built, 1696, has
horse block used by William Penn in dismounting; chimney had curious
openings in outside wall, through which fire wood was introduced to the
hearth, their position is still traceable. The Buck Tavern, built, 1732,
now Haverford House.
BRYN MAWR, 415 feet above sea level (Welsh, great hill). Bryn Mawr
College, founded by Dr. Joseph W. Taylor, of Burlington, New Jersey, in
1880, to establish “An institute for advanced learning, for women to
have equal advantages with men.” The college has continued a high
standard of academic work, and maintains graduate school for women doing
research work in all branches. Buildings, chiefly varieties of Gothic
architecture, stone, date from 1882-1913, architects, Addison Hutton,
Cope & Stewardson, C. Francis Osborne, Lockwood de Forest, and Winsor
Soule; the Library, Jacobean Gothic, period, 1630, incloses cloister
garden with center fountain, bosses of cloister arches are carved by
hand, sculptor, Alec Miller from England. Memorial brasses, set in wall,
were designed by Lockwood de Forest. Reading room contains portraits of
President M. Carey Thomas, by John S. Sargent, and ex-President James
E. Rhoads, by William M. Chase.
ROSEMONT, residence, Alba Johnson, Esq., late Tudor, is typical of Main
Line residences, many of them Norman or English; grounds in woodland and
best traditions of English landscape gardening; marble statue of Eve,
made 1855, by Bartholomew, Rome; lead statuary, Neptune and horses
fountain, from Bronze Grove Guild, Worcester, England, Walter Gilbert,
sculptor; the grounds may sometimes be seen by writing to owner for
permission. VILLA NOVA, Roman Catholic College and monastery. Bernard
Corr Memorial Hall, old English Gothic, built, 1912-14; architects,
Durang & Son.
RADNOR, Delaware County, Friends meeting house, built, 1718, used as
hospital for Morgan’s riflemen and Potter’s brigade in 1778; St. David’s
Church, built, 1715, by the congregation, named for patron Saint of
Wales; native stone, used as hospital in Revolutionary War, leaden sash,
melted for bullets; Swedish missionary at Wicaco held first services
here; General Anthony Wayne, vestryman, is buried in church grounds; his
monument was erected by Pennsylvania Society of the Cincinnati in 1809;
Judge William Moore and wife, buried under the door-step; their daughter
was the wife of the first Provost, William Smith, U. of P. Communion
service given by Queen Anne. WAYNE, General Wayne Inn, hotel since 1707,
Wayne’s encampment near in 1792, before his western campaign against
Indians. Chester County, Lincoln Highway to Strafford, Township Line
Road to VALLEY FORGE, see page 253.
Return, Montgomery County, Valley Forge road to “King of Prussia” Inn,
built, 1749; continue on Gulph Road to Gulph Mills, stone, built, 1747,
Boulder Monument, inscription, “Gulph mills, the main Continental Army
commanded by General George Washington, encamped in this vicinity
December 13 to December 19, 1777, on way to Valley Forge, erected by the
Pennsylvania Society, Sons of the Revolution, 1892.” Over Gulph Creek
near Gulph station, Philadelphia & Western Railroad, is stone bridge,
inscription “Montgomery County, Upper Merian (Merion) Township, 1787; In
the second year of the Foederal (Federal) Union.” WEST CONSHOHOCKEN.
Matson’s Ford, over which Lafayette retreated from the British in 1778,
continue along Schuylkill River drive to Belmont Avenue, through
Fairmount Park to Philadelphia.
MONTGOMERY COUNTY AUTOMOBILE TRIP ON OLD YORK ROAD, TO DOYLESTOWN, BUCKS
COUNTY, LEADING TO CENTER BRIDGE
Old York Road, original stage route to New York, laid out in 1711, from
city line to Center Bridge. ELKINS PARK station. Residence of the late
P. A. B. Widener, “Lynnewood Hall,” notable for one of the finest art
collections in the United States; near by, residence of William L.
Elkins has notable art gallery, both galleries may sometimes be seen by
writing to owners for cards of admission. South of Chelten Avenue, stone
bridge, two arches, date, 1793; opposite is only milestone of old series
south of the Neshaminy, it is the seventh milestone mentioned in
Washington’s orders for the attack on Germantown. West, is residence of
the late Lucretia Mott, Oak Farm, near La Mott, now Latham Park. OGONTZ,
residence of the late Jay Cooke, financier of the Civil War; named for
an Indian chief whom he had met. Over Tacony Creek is stone bridge,
inscription, “Cheltenham bridge, 1798, 7½ miles to Phila.” Church Road,
near Myers Mill, Cheltenham, site, country residence of William Penn; on
part of this land is country residence of the late John Wanamaker. At
Washington Lane, southeast boundary of Jenkintown, is large oak tree
where Washington rested his white horse.
A quarter of a mile east of Jenkintown is Abington Friends meeting
house, organized, 1682, built, 1697 by William Jenkins from Wales;
stone; long piazza; old shutters with strap hinges and iron hooks, door
latch and knobs; all in keeping with its period of construction, fine
old trees in grounds are well cared for. One mile north, RYDAL station,
Ogontz School for Girls, lately in Jay Cooke mansion, organized about
1850, by Misses Bonney & Dillaye: Collegiate Gothic, built, 1917;
architects, Cope & Stewardson, has Art Department. Through Meadowbrook,
one mile east to BETHAYRES, residence, Henry McCarter, artist.
One mile north, BRYN ATHYN, name means “Hill of Cohesiveness,” a
Swedenborgian educational community. Library contains the most valuable
collection of Swedenborg’s writings in the world. Here is being erected
a cathedral; architect, Ralph Adams Cram, gift of John Pitcairn; like
the cathedrals of old, all work is prepared on the grounds; wood-carving
and stonecutting by hand; glass manufactured, models made; the workmen
in consultation with the donor and the architect to obtain the best
results. Return to York Road. ABINGTON, library, originally Jenkintown
Lyceum, built, 1830, lately remodeled, modern colonial, contains
valuable collection of books bequeathed by John Lambert, artist, who
also left $50,000 in trust for purchasing paintings by young artists at
annual exhibitions in Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts.
Presbyterian Church built, 1714, is said to be third in this country; in
1740 George Whitefield preached here to three thousand persons in one
day.
WILLOW GROVE PARK; pleasure resort; fine concerts given throughout the
summer season, by _Sousa_ and others. North on Doylestown Pike, HORSHAM,
Graeme Park, colonial, stone house, hipped roof, residence, Sir William
Keith, from Scotland, Baronet of Ludquhairn, Aberdeenshire, Lieutenant
Governor of Pennsylvania, 1717-26; he laid foundation of the military
system, encouraged putting out paper currency, and inaugurated a
military display at Penn’s death; property later owned by Dr. Thomas
Graeme, his son-in-law; Governor Keith’s coat of arms is on a large iron
plate in the fireplace; in the yard is an antique slave bell and stone
strength tester. Quaker meeting house, built, 1803. Approaching HATBORO,
stone bridge leads York Road over Pennypack Creek, inscription
“Hatborough, 1780, 16 M. to P.” It is said this bridge was built in
1824, stone taken from an older bridge. Battle of “Crooked Billet,” name
of near-by tavern, fought in 1778, a small company of Americans under
Colonel John Lacy were attacked by British under Lieutenant Colonel
Abercrombie, and nearly all killed; white marble monument was erected
here in 1861. Continued in Bucks County.
MONTGOMERY COUNTY AUTOMOBILE TRIP FROM CHESTNUT HILL TO CAMP HILL AND
FORT WASHINGTON
(Return by Norristown to Philadelphia)
At Chestnut Hill, on Bethlehem Pike, we enter Whitemarsh Valley
(Umbilicamince), named from mists of Wissahickon Creek; near by is
ERDENHEIM, Carson College, on one hundred acres of ground, richly
endowed by Robert N. Carson, for orphan girls, that they may have the
same benefits which Girard College has accorded to orphan boys; the
architect, Albert Kelsey, has planned his design to be an allegorical
vision of woman’s life, combining beauty, utility, and sympathy; he
eliminates the usual large central buildings, the administration and
classrooms being in the nature of a college settlement which make up in
beauty what they lack in size, and may be expanded as occasion demands.
Passing the Wheel Pump and Black Horse, famous early hotels. Colonial
houses; Presbyterian and Lutheran churches with their burial grounds; to
junction with Skippack Road.
St. Thomas Protestant Episcopal Church, contains Communion service given
by Queen Anne, first log chapel built by Edward Farmer, 1690; stone
church built, 1710, on first site; during the Revolutionary War, church
was occupied by various military forces, used as fort by British with
guns in windows; the gravestones, long, flat pieces of slate on four
columns, used as cooking stoves, with fires lighted underneath, upright
stones were marks for target practice, bullet holes may still be seen in
them. American forces camped here November 22, 1777; being warned by
Lydia Darragh of a British attack, when the enemy made their appearance,
General Wayne opened fire from Fort Washington, the British retreating
with a loss of one hundred men. Whitemarsh church is repeatedly
mentioned in Washington’s diary as a center of operations; present
church, near first site, consecrated, 1881. Gothic, native stone,
interesting interior, with high pointed roof and narrow lancet memorial
windows, all made abroad but one, “Angel of the Resurrection,” by
Tiffany; high on west wall is a rose window; three small lights in the
George and Anna Catherine Sheaff window are said to have been painted by
Albrecht Durer; reredos, “Christ Breaking the Bread,” painted in Italy;
altar, Indiana limestone with carved angels kneeling; the rood screen
with loft, English quartered oak, is exquisitely carved. Encircling a
window is mural decoration by Marianna Sloan. In the burial ground is an
Iona Cross, marking last resting place of Henry Howard Houston, for
whose memorial Houston Hall was given to the University of Pennsylvania.
View from north door of church shows, east, Camp Hill; in valley below,
Washington’s headquarters, stone house two and a half stories, one-half
mile east from Camp Hill station, Pennsylvania Railroad, left wing of
army, posted rear of house; here Washington decided to establish
fortified encampment at Valley Forge; December 12, whole army ordered to
march to Valley Forge, via Swedes Ford, Norristown, where they crossed
the Schuylkill on a bridge of wagons, with rails laid over them; “Swedes
Ford,” hotel built, 1723, still standing, at Bridgeport.
North of St. Thomas Church we locate Fort Washington by its flagstaff,
in center of earthwork thrown up by General Anthony Wayne’s men. West,
from Church, Militia Hill, where some of the stones, used as anchors for
tents, are still in position; at foot of hill is Wissahickon Creek, over
which leads the high railroad bridge belonging to the Trenton cut-off of
the Pennsylvania Railroad. Passing Fortside Inn, north, on Bethlehem
Pike, is stone marker, inscription “About 700 feet south of this stone
is an American Redoubt and site of Howe’s threatened attack, December 6,
1777; from here Washington’s army marched to Valley Forge. Erected,
1891, by the Pennsylvania Society, Sons of the Revolution.”
Farther on Bethlehem Pike, over Sandy Run, is the village of FORT
WASHINGTON, now home of the Darby School of Painting, a summer art
school conducted by Hugh H. Breckenridge, member of the faculty of the
Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, there science of color is taught
in its fullest significance. On Engertown Road is old Friends meeting
house. Farther, on Limekiln Pike, is Pennsylvania School of Horticulture
for Women, post office, Ambler, founded in 1910, thorough training,
through all seasons, eliminates waste of costly inexperience, and fits a
woman for a life that is healthful, attractive, and remunerative. Near
Sumneytown and Butler Pike is “Three Tuns Inn.” Gwynedd, meeting house,
built, 1700, Welsh Quakers worshiped here.
Down Butler Pike to AMBLER, residence of Dr. R. V. Mattison, built,
1890, Scotch baronial style, wrought iron gates designed in Munich;
opposite is Trinity Memorial Church, Romanesque, noted for its beautiful
windows, designed by F. S. Lamb, original, and adapted from paintings by
world famous artists, of scenes in Christ’s life, made by J. and R.
Lamb; interior paneled in oak, similar to House of Parliament, London;
font, Italian marble, good design. Through Morris Road, over bridge
crossed by Washington’s army, between Morris and Skippack roads, one
mile west of Ambler, is stone residence, built by Abraham Dawes in 1736,
was Washington’s headquarters, October 21, 1777.
Out Skippack Road, on road from Center Square to HEEBNERVILLE,
Washington’s headquarters, October 16; residence of Peter Wentz, still
standing, two story, stone, built, 1758. Out Township line to
KULPSVILLE, on Sumneytown Road, Baptist or Mennonite meeting house, here
are buried General Francis Nash of North Carolina, and other officers
who died of wounds received in the Battle of Germantown. Northwest, one
mile, HARLEYSVILLE, residence of Henry Funk, Bishop of Mennonite Church,
who with the Dunkards of Ephrata, made translation, in 1748, from the
German, of Tielman Jan van Braght’s great historical book of the
Mennonites, termed the noblest specimen of American colonial
bibliography; Henry Funk’s mill, still standing, known as Musselman’s
Mill, contains a parchment deed, date, 1733, with great seal of the
province and signature of Thomas Penn.
Return to Skippack Road, to Pennypacker’s Mills, SCHWENKSVILLE,
residence of the late Governor Samuel Pennypacker, two story, stone
house, Washington’s headquarters before and after Battle of Germantown;
army marched down Skippack Road, 7.00 P.M., October 3, to attack the
enemy; here October 7, Washington received a committee of Friends,
appointed by the Yearly Meeting, against war; Schwenksville was settled
by Schwenkfelders from Silesia in 1734; Casper Schwenkfeld preached, in
1523, doctrines accepted by George Fox in 1648, were forerunners of
Quakers. Perkiomen Seminary, at Pennsburg, originated in a school
founded by Schwenkfelders, 1764. Down Perkiomen Creek road, over finest
old stone bridge in state, five arches, built, 1799, architect, George
Lewis, carries Ridge Road over Perkiomen Creek at COLLEGEVILLE, Ursinus
College; Co-ed Lutheran, portraits by Albert Rosenthal. And old
Providence meeting house.
One mile west, at TRAPPE, Augustus Church, oldest Lutheran church in
United States; built, 1743; unaltered; used as hospital for American
soldiers during Revolutionary war; Henry Melchior Muhlenberg was sent
from Halle, Germany, in 1742, to organize this church in Pennsylvania;
first regularly ordained preacher, reports he sent to Halle supply much
early, original information. His sons, born here, were General Peter
Muhlenberg, pastor of church in Shenandoah Valley, who called on his
congregation to enlist in the Revolutionary War, and Frederich Augustus,
speaker, First National Congress, 1789. EVANSBURG, St. James Protestant
Episcopal Church and schoolhouse, built about 1700, contains Bible,
prayer book, and old walnut Communion table, sent over by the English
Society in 1723, to its foreign mission. Revolutionary soldiers are
buried in the church yard. Here is an eight arch stone bridge, date
1792.
NORRISTOWN, county seat, settled, 1784, population 32,319. Courthouse
built, 1791, native white marble; on grounds is Rittenhouse monument,
granite shaft, dedicated 1876, marks the meridian. Jail, built, 1851,
red sandstone, castellated Norman, architect for courthouse and jail, N.
LeBrun. Historical Society of Montgomery County has local historical
collections. St. John’s Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic, dedicated,
1815, Revolutionary soldiers are buried in its grounds. Montgomery Trust
Company, Greek, Ionic, Westerly granite and Indiana limestone, facing
public square, on site of first hotel in Norristown. In Montgomery
Cemetery are buried Charles Heber Clark (Max Adler), and General
Winfield Scott Hancock.
PLYMOUTH MEETING, old Friends meeting house, built, 1715, stone, used as
hospital during Revolutionary War, Thomas Hovenden, artist, buried in
grounds; residence of Mrs. Thomas Hovenden (Helen Corson), was a noted
underground railway station for refugee slaves. Stone bridge over
Plymouth Creek, date, 1796; stone bridge carrying Germantown and Reading
Railroad over Plymouth Creek, date, 1802. BARREN HILL, Lafayette and
detachment of army attacked here by British, May 18, 1778. ROXBOROUGH,
Philadelphia, St. Timothy’s Protestant Episcopal Church has frieze,
procession of angels. Through Ridge Avenue to Wissahickon Drive,
Fairmount Park, to Philadelphia.
XVI
DAUPHIN COUNTY
Seat of state capital; formed March 4, 1785; named for title of the
Dauphin of France, then Louis XVI, in recognition of aid rendered to the
colonies in Revolutionary War. Chief industries iron and steel; in the
north, anthracite coal. High mountain ranges, with valleys of rich
rolling farm lands, intersected with many streams, show much scenic
beauty.
HARRISBURG, county seat; laid out in 1785; population 75,917. The state
capitol’s best approach is from Third and South Streets, the massive
pile looms up in exquisite proportion, one is impressed with the
inherent dignity of the façade, controlled by a well-proportioned dome;
dedicated in 1906; architect, Joseph W. Huston; Roman and Italian
Renaissance, with influence of Greek Corinthian; dome suggests St.
Peter’s in Rome; bronze doors, designed by J. W. Huston, were modeled by
Otto Jansen; superb groups of statuary on either side of the main
entrance typify, “The Joy, and Burden of Life,” sculptor, George Gray
Barnard; within the rotunda is the splendid collection of battle flags,
378, owned by the state; one of the most interesting of the kind.
Mural decorations, the Rotunda; Economic “Triumphs of the State,”
artist, Sir Edwin A. Abbey; from large lunettes show the “Spirits of
Commerce, Oil (Light), Coal, Steel”; four pendentives contain single
[Illustration: DAUPHIN COUNTY]
allegorical figures, Religion, Art, Literature, Science; governor’s
reception room; frieze, artist, Violet Oakley, “Foundations of the State
of Liberty Spiritual.” Lunettes, artists, John W. Alexander and W. B.
Van Ingen, “Growth and Expansion of the State of Liberty Spiritual,” by
the establishment of various religious bodies that came to the new
colony. House of Representatives; wainscoting of marble from the French
Pyrenees; above the large windows are stained glass by W. B. Van Ingen;
paintings by Abbey, “The Apotheosis of Pennsylvania,” with figures that
stand as portraits, “Penn’s Treaty with the Indians,” and “The Reading
of the Declaration of Independence,” planned by Abbey and finished in
his studio after his death; the dome contains his exquisitely painted
decoration, symbolical of the “Passage of the Hours”; only one of
Abbey’s paintings for the senate room was finished, his “Valley Forge,”
it has been placed with his others in the House of Representatives; Miss
Oakley’s paintings were unveiled there in February, 1917; she will also
decorate the Supreme Court Room.
The Moravian tiled pavement was designed and manufactured by Dr. Henry
C. Mercer; these artists were all born in Pennsylvania; the consecutive
line of historical and idealistic thought in the decorations was a
conception of the architect. In Capitol Park, sixteen acres, notable for
shrubbery and flowers, is a bronze equestrian statue, General and
Governor John Frederick Hartranft; sculptor, Frederick W. Ruckstuhl;
also Mexican monument, white marble, erected by the state in 1868, in
memory of citizens lost in war with Mexico, 1846-48. An elementary
course of art is taught in nearly every public school in Pennsylvania,
prepared by the Department of Public Instruction at Harrisburg, the
basis of all art instruction in normal schools; nearly every summer
school in the state offers a course in freehand drawing, and special
courses for both grade teachers and supervisors.
Harrisburg is famous for her park system, the 972 acres extend along the
river front, and to the center of the city for over a mile. Harris Park,
four acres, from Paxton Street to Mulberry Street; contains monument to
John Harris, first settler, and John Harris, Jr., founder of the city;
facing the park, below Mulberry Street, is the Harris residence, stone,
built in 1766; little changed from the original form; Lincoln Park, two
and one-fourth acres, from Mulberry Street to Market Street, contains
memorial, “In memory of J. Conrad Weiser, 1696-1764, Provincial
Interpreter, and his friend Shikellimy, 1683-1748, an Oneida Chief.”
Erected about 1911. Facing this park is the building of the Historical
Society of Dauphin County, with interesting museum. Promenade Park,
three and one-half acres, Market to State Streets; and the D. W. Gross
Park, two acres, Water to Herr Streets, with bronze memorial statue, a
charging soldier, in memory of Sylvester P. Sullivan. Reservoir Park,
eighty-eight acres, contains the city reservoir, giving a lake setting,
with elaborate planting of flowers and shrubs; best scenic view is from
this elevation. Wildwood Park, 666 acres, has a large lake for boating.
The Boulevard or Parkway, 146 acres, is along streams, through ravines,
and meadows; landscape architect, Warren H. Manning.
[Illustration: THE JOY AND BURDEN OF LIFE
Harrisburg State Capitol
_George Gray Barnard, Sculptor Photographed by Boyd P. Rothrock,
Curator_]
St. Patrick’s Procathedral; architect, George I. Lovatt; Renaissance;
main altar, marble, is reproduction of Bernini’s altar in St. Peter’s,
Rome. In Grace Protestant Episcopal Church is a painting by E. Irving
Couse, “Adoration by the Shepherds.” Soldiers’ Monument, State and
Second Streets, “To the Soldiers of Dauphin County, in 1861-65; erected
by their fellow citizens in 1869.” Bronze tablet in west wall of the
Camp Curtin School House, corner of Sixth and Woodbine Streets;
commemorating site of old Camp Curtin, 1861-65; placed in 1911, by
Keystone Chapter, United States Daughters of 1812. Memorial Market
Street entrance to the City of Harrisburg; eastern approach to new
bridge, formerly the old “Camel Back,” includes two columns from the old
burned state capitol, and commemorative bronze tablets, designed by A.
Sterling Calder; architect, Albert Kelsey; presented by the Henry
McCormick Estate under auspices of the Harrisburg Civic Club; erected
and dedicated in 1906.
HERSHEY, the chocolate town, a model village, out of which daily roll
fifteen cars loaded with candies and chocolate; in 1915 Dunkards came
from all over the United States to the annual conference of the “Church
of the Brethren,” held in convention hall which seats six thousand,
built for them by M. S. Hershey, largest meeting in the history of their
church.
The Susquehanna River, one mile wide here, is spanned by three other
bridges; Mulberry Street viaduct is said to be largest reinforced
concrete bridge in the world, designed and erected by James H. Fuertes;
stone arch bridge of the Pennsylvania Railroad at Rockville, said to be
the largest four-track stone bridge in the world. Historic buildings;
residence of William Maclay, first United States Senator from
Pennsylvania, built in 1791; original building intact, with large wing
added; on upper river front above South Street, used later by the
Harrisburg Academy. Old Derry Church, Derry Township, a Presbyterian
settlement since 1724, first log church built in 1732; present stone
building on first site, built, 1883; has burial ground of much historic
interest; Old Hanover Church, Presbyterian, eleven miles from
Harrisburg, first log church built on Bow Creek in 1735; present
building closed; the ancient burial ground is chief point of interest.
Old Paxtang Church, Presbyterian, three miles east of Harrisburg, first
log church said to have been built in 1716, with burial ground; present
stone building built, 1740. Bronze gate and tablet at Paxtang Cemetery
is memorial to soldiers of the French and Indian War and the Revolution;
dedicated in 1906 by Harrisburg Chapter, Daughters of the American
Revolution. Fort Hunter, five miles from Harrisburg on Fort Hunter and
Fishing Creek Road, was laid out about 1760, on a high bluff facing the
Susquehanna River, colonial house, built in 1814 by Colonel Archibald
McAllister, is on foundations of an English blockhouse known as Hunter’s
Fort.
XVII
LUZERNE COUNTY
Formed September 25, 1786; named in honor of Anne Cæsar, Chevalier de la
Luzerne, minister from France to the United States 1779-83. Ranks third
in number of inhabitants of Pennsylvania counties. Along either bank of
the Susquehanna, a broad and shallow river, lie rich, fertile, alluvial
bottom lands, mostly well cultivated; bounding them are ranges of hills
and mountains 1200-1600 feet above sea level; other mountains in the
northwest of the county attain an altitude of 2200 feet. In the
northeast lies the historic Wyoming Valley, Indian name, Maughwauwama,
or large plains, a long, oval basin from Campbell’s Ledge to Nanticoke
Falls, some sixteen miles in length, with an average breadth of three
miles.
Luzerne County lies within the limits of the Connecticut Charter,
granted in 1662, and within the limits of the Pennsylvania Charter
granted in 1681; this double ownership caused much contention in later
years, finally the Susquehanna Company of Connecticut was victorious;
settlers now came rapidly, and by 1778 were distributed in several
villages, with schools, churches, and all the characteristics of New
England orderliness and thrift, enthusiasm and devoted patriotism. The
British leader, Colonel John Butler, saw that this settlement was
exposed in position, and that they had sent the
[Illustration: LUZERNE COUNTY]
best part of their militia to serve in Washington’s army, so with a
company of his own rangers, a regiment of Johnson’s Greens, and a band
of Indians, in all about 1200 men, he took the warpath from Niagara;
they journeyed down the Susquehanna in bark canoes, landed above the
settlement, and began their work of murder and plunder, harrowing
incidents are made known by Campbell in his “Gertrude of Wyoming.” The
women and children were placed in the fort. At the junction of Fort and
River Streets, in the borough of FORTY FORT; a conglomerate boulder with
bronze tablet, marks the site of “Forty Fort,” erected by the
Connecticut settlers in 1772. From this fort, on July 3, 1778, the
Wyoming Militia, numbering about 300, mostly old men and boys, marched
forth to oppose the invading British troops and Indians, fight the
Battle of Wyoming, and meet with complete defeat and atrocious massacre,
in which the British officers were unable to set any bounds in the
butchery of their savage allies; next day the fort was taken; the
Indians burned all the houses; the inhabitants fled to the woods, and
the valley was abandoned; a hundred women and children perished of
fatigue and starvation. On Wyoming Avenue in the borough of Wyoming is
the “Wyoming Monument,” marking the burial place of many of the patriots
who were slain in the battle and massacre; dedicated July, 1846.
On Susquehanna Avenue near Seventh Street is “Queen Esther’s Rock,” a
half-breed queen of the Senecas, on which she tomahawked fourteen
prisoners; marked by a tablet, placed by the Daughters of the American
Revolution, bearing this inscription, “Upon this rock the Indian queen
Esther slaughtered the brave patriots taken in the battle of July 3,
1778.” On the bank of the river, near the Pittston Ferry bridge, in the
borough of WEST PITTSTON, is a small monument marking site of Jenkins’
Fort, destroyed by the British and Indians July, 1778. The Battle of
Wyoming, with the subsequent massacre, was one of the important events
of the Revolutionary War, as it led to the sending of the Sullivan
Expedition in 1779 into the country of the Six Nations, whereby the
power of their confederacy was forever broken. WHITE HAVEN Township was
the place of Sullivan’s army encampment, in 1779.
The oldest church in the county is in Forty Fort, not far from the site
of the old fort, interior of the building remains as it was when erected
in 1808; in the burial ground are many old graves, with headstones
bearing quaint inscriptions. Other historic places marked by tablet or
monument are, site of a bridge built by the engineers of General John
Sullivan’s army in the spring of 1779, on the banks of Ten Mile Run,
northwest of Bear Creek Village, marked by boulder with tablet. Place
where two commissioned officers, and three others of General Sullivan’s
army were ambushed and slain by Indians, April, 1779; marked by boulder
with tablet. In the Public Square, WILKES-BARRE, is a monument marking
site of Fort Wilkes-Barre, erected in 1776-77 by the inhabitants of the
town; destroyed by the British and Indians July, 1778. On the river
common, at the foot of Northampton Street, a boulder, with tablet, marks
the site of Fort Wyoming, erected, 1771, demolished in 1774 or 1775.
And at the foot of South Street a boulder, with tablet, is erected near
the site of Fort Durkee, built in 1769 by first settlers from
Connecticut, named for their leader, Major John Durkee, who founded and
named Wilkes-Barre in honor of John Wilkes and Colonel Barre; this fort
fell into decay prior to 1776, it was located near site of a village
occupied from 1758-63 by a band of Delaware Indians under “King”
Tedyuscung.
WILKES-BARRE, county seat, was settled, 1772, population, 73,833. Places
of modern interest, containing historical collections, portraits, and
paintings, open free to the public, are the Courthouse, modified
adaptation of classic, the façade, with Ionic porch, is very dignified,
surmounted by a Gustavino dome; architects, Osterling, McCormick &
French; said to be one of the handsomest and most elaborately decorated
courthouses in this country; contains mural paintings by E. H.
Blashfield, Kenyon Cox, Will H. Low, William T. Smedley, C. D. Hinton,
and others. Irem Temple, Moorish design, with tall slender minarets at
each corner. Osterhout Free Library, Gothic. Wyoming Historical and
Geological Society. The Second National Bank, with interesting Ionic
porch at entrance, steel frame, faced with brick and concrete,
architects, McCormick & French. First Presbyterian Church and St.
Stephen’s Protestant Episcopal Church contain handsome memorial tablets
and stained glass windows; a fine bronze relief, by J. Massey Rhind, is
in St. Stephen’s. In the Coal Exchange Building is the Atherton Atelier,
T. H. Atherton, Jr., Superintendent, Architecture, in coöperation with
Society of Beaux Arts. Particular care has been given to improving the
public parks located in different parts of the city. Public square in
center, and the river commons, stretching along the bank of the
Susquehanna for a considerable distance, are attractive and noteworthy.
Opposite the city, across the river, is Riverside Park, chiefly a
natural grove of old trees.
The principal educational institution is Wyoming Seminary, co-ed, at
KINGSTON, founded in 1844, conducted under auspices of the Wyoming
Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church, ranks high as a college
preparatory school and has an academic art course. There are many places
of scenic beauty; notably the Conyngham dairy and stock farms at
Hillside, just outside Wyoming Valley, on the road from Kingston to
Harvey’s Lake, which is 1226 feet above sea level; one of the largest
stock farms in the state, covering 651 acres. Sugarloaf Valley, not far
from HAZLETON. The Hazleton Country Club. Glen Summit Springs and the
neighboring country, Bear Creek Village, and Wyoming Valley, viewed
either from Campbell’s Ledge, Mount Lookout, or Prospect Rock.
The principal roads are maintained in good order, and there are no toll
roads in the county. For many years the chief industry has been the
mining of anthracite coal, discovered here in 1762; for a considerable
period it stood first among the counties in annual output; first
development of this coal for shipping to market from the Wyoming region
was in 1776, when two Durham boats purchased cargoes from a mine
operated by R. Greer, near Wyoming. There are many large manufactories.
Within a ten mile circle, having Wilkes-Barre public square as its
center, there were, according to the United States census of 1910,
thirty-three smaller municipalities, cities, boroughs, and hamlets,
having a total population, including Wilkes-Barre, of 266,951. The other
principal towns of this county are Hazleton, population 32,277;
Nanticoke, 22,614; Plymouth, 16,500; Pittston, 18,497; West Pittston,
6968; Kingston, 8952. Peter Frederick Rothermel, prominent historical
painter, was born in Nescopeck, this county, in 1817.
[Illustration: HUNTINGDON COUNTY]
XVIII
HUNTINGDON COUNTY
Formed September 20, 1787; named by Provost William Smith, of the
University of Pennsylvania, in honor of Selina, Countess of Huntingdon,
a benefactress of the University; lies within the central mountainous
region, being drained by the Juniata. Many fine farms are on the rich
soil of the river flats. Juniata iron early became famous, and numerous
iron works were erected; the old Bedford Furnace was near Orbisonia.
Abundance, variety, and value of the ores; rich and convenient deposits
of limestone; contiguity of the Broad Top, Allegheny and Cumberland coal
fields, combine to indicate the importance of this country. Other
industries are coal-mining, lumber, agriculture, and manufactories.
Large water-power dams of the Pennsylvania Central, and Raystown Water
Power Companies generate electric light and power.
HUNTINGDON, county seat; population 7051, largest town on the Juniata.
The first white visitors to this region were traders, in traffic with
Indians, exchanging goods for furs and skins. On incursions, made before
the middle of the eighteenth century, they found a tribe, a branch of
the Six Nations, located on the now southeast portion of this borough,
their wigwams circling around a pillar of stone, 14 feet high and 6
inches square, covered with hieroglyphics supposed to be a record of
their history and achievements. This tribe, besides hunting and fishing,
had cleared land and cultivated corn. This stone was regarded with
great veneration by the natives; here they had assembled for centuries
to hold their grand councils; its conspicuous position and appearance
led the white visitors to name the locality, “Standing Stone,” it stood
above Second Street, on or near 208 Allegheny Street. Conrad Weiser, in
1748, and John Harris, in 1754, in accounts of their journeys to the
Ohio River, both describe this stone.
The Proprietaries of this province, ever mindful of the rights of the
Indians, would not grant lands, nor permit settlements to be made until
the Indian title had been purchased; at a treaty held in Albany, in
1754, the Six Nations, consisting of the Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas,
Cayugas, Senecas, and Tuscaroras, executed a deed to the Proprietaries
for a large portion of the province, including the whole valley of the
Juniata; soon after, the resident tribe migrated, and, it is supposed,
carried the stone with them. The seal of the borough has, as its central
figure, a Standing Stone. A second stone was erected by the settlers;
and in 1896 a third, at Penn and Third Streets; as a memorial of the
ancient standing stone of the Indians. Fort Standing Stone was built
here at an early date; site about intersection of Penn and Second
Streets, it was stockaded and provided with barracks, blockhouses, and
magazines constructed of heavy hewn timber, and was the place of many
important incidents during troublesome times following the defeat of
General Braddock in 1755, and until peace was made with Great Britain in
1783.
Provost William Smith, D.D., obtained the land in 1766 from George
Croghan, and numerous other tracts in the vicinity, and in 1767 caused
the town of Huntingdon to be laid out, now on the William Penn Highway;
the proprietor donating plots of ground for a public school, cemetery,
and to each of six prominent religious denominations. About 1797 a post
office was established here, and John Cadwallader was appointed
postmaster; a weekly mail was carried between Harrisburg and Huntingdon.
The most important public buildings, architecturally, are Juniata
College, nine buildings, erected 1878-1916; the older buildings are
colonial; Library, Gothic, red brick with terra-cotta trimmings, built,
1907; contains memorial windows; the Church of the Brethren on the
college campus, Gothic; McGee sandstone; erected, 1910; members of this
sect settled in this county in 1775; and the J. C. Blair Memorial
Hospital, Spanish mission style, light buff brick and Indiana limestone
trimmings, on a commanding position overlooking the town. E. L. Tilton,
New York, architect, also of the College Library and Church of the
Brethren.
Among the places of historic interest in the county are Fort Shirley,
built, 1755, on bluff near site of Indian town of Aughwick, now
Shirleysburg. McAlevey’s Fort, at the head of Standing Stone Creek
Valley, named for Captain William McAlevey, afterwards general in the
Revolutionary War. Warm Springs, five miles northeast of Huntingdon,
known, in 1775, as a resort for invalids. Pulpit Rocks on the Warriors
Ridge, on the old pike between Huntingdon and Alexandria. And Jack’s
Narrows, where the Juniata River cuts through Jack’s Mountain, west of
Mount Union. The Pennsylvania Canal extended through this county from
Shaver’s Aqueduct, below Mount Union, to line of Blair County, above
Water Street; here in Indian times canoes came to receive supplies of
lead. Two miles east is ALEXANDRIA, laid out, 1793; in 1800 the turnpike
was completed to Alexandria, and stage service to Harrisburg began; fare
charged travelers was six cents a mile; this town was the shipping point
of grain for the rich Hart’s Log and Shaver’s Creek valleys.
XIX
ALLEGHENY COUNTY
Formed September 24, 1788; named from Delaware Indian word signifying
“Fair Water.” Surface undulating, many elevations being precipitous. Is
the center of one of the richest bituminous coal and natural gas
districts in the world. Oil fields lie mainly in basins of Allegheny and
Ohio Rivers. Staple manufactures are iron, steel and glass. The history
of Allegheny County presents a greater variety of startling incidents
than almost any other portion of the state. Mound builders were primeval
inhabitants, site of ancient fortifications are on Chartier’s Creek,
eight miles from PITTSBURGH, county seat, second city in size in the
state, on site of Shannopin’s Town, chief of about twenty families of
Delawares; he attended councils with the Governor; his name is signed on
several state archives. By it ran the main Indian path from east to
west.
Washington first came to “The Forks,” in 1753, on way to Fort Le Boeuf.
The French possessed it as Fort Duquesne 1754-58, when it was conquered
by General Forbes; General Stanwix erected a stockade and named it Fort
Pitt, for the British premier. In 1764, Colonel Bouquet built a redoubt
on site of the Fort; old brick blockhouse is still standing, Penn Avenue
near Second Street. First town of Pittsburgh built near the Fort in
1760, inhabitants enjoyed
[Illustration: ALLEGHENY COUNTY]
comparative quiet until 1763, when Pontiac’s War broke out and they were
completely surrounded by savages, later rescued by Colonel Bouquet. In
1811 first steamboat ever run on western waters was launched at
Pittsburgh, the “New Orleans.” In 1839 first iron steamboat made in the
United States, the “Valley Forge,” was built here.
The sister city, ALLEGHENY, north side, was incorporated with Pittsburgh
in 1907, combined population 588,343. An art commission was organized,
1911, for an improvement in public works of art in Pittsburgh, and to
educate public sentiment for civic beautification; in 1915, E. H.
Bennett, City Planning Architect of Chicago, was engaged to make a
thorough economic and æsthetic analysis of “The Point,” at junction of
the Monongahela and Allegheny rivers.
Close to the business center is SCHENLEY PARK, 440 acres, acquired by
gift to the city in 1889, contains the Carnegie Institute; Carnegie
Institute of Technology; Phipps Conservatory and Hall of Botany, given
by Mr. Phipps in memory of his mother, with one of the most beautiful
bronze statues in the world, “Mother and Child,” French sculptor;
Hawkins Memorial, a bronze portrait figure, backed by wall of polished
granite, base and floor marble, sculptor, Richard H. Couper, erected,
1904, in honor of Colonel Hawkins, Tenth Pennsylvania Regiment, in
Spanish-American War; Panther Hollow, in which is an arch bridge, Beaver
County sandstone, with panthers, sculptor, G. Moretti; and two other
stone arch bridges built in 1892, architect, A. L. Schultz.
Near the Forbes Avenue entrance is the great central building of the
CARNEGIE INSTITUTE, established by Andrew Carnegie with large annual
fund, in perpetuity, for purchase of objects of art and scientific
collections; built 1892-95, Italian Renaissance, sandstone, architects,
Alden & Harlow, enlarged in 1904-07, contains Library, Music Hall,
Department of Fine Arts, and the Natural History Museum, in which are
large collections of ancient pottery, Chinese glass, and porcelains
representing various eras; jades and crystals; valuable collections of
coins and medals; illuminated manuscripts and early printed books, cut
and uncut gems; one of the largest collections of carved ivory in the
United States; and art metal work. The Library operates more than one
hundred and seventy agencies for free distribution of literature, within
“Greater Pittsburgh.”
On top of the building are four bronze groups, representing Science,
Art, Literature, and Music. Bronze statues, Michelangelo and Galileo,
are at entrance to Art Gallery. Entrance to Music Hall is through
exquisitely designed bronze doors, wrought in relief, with bronze
statues, Bach and Shakespeare, at either side. These bronzes were
designed and modeled in the studio of J. Massey Rhind, and cast in
Naples. Foyer to the Music Hall is considered the most beautiful portion
of the Institute; here are twenty-four huge columns of Tinos marble,
with gilded Corinthian capitals; and one of the finest organs in the
world, on which the greatest organists obtainable give concerts of
highly classical music, which are free, every Saturday night and Sunday
afternoon. The great Archer, Queen Victoria’s Jubilee organist, held
this position for many
[Illustration: GALLERY OF THE SCULPTURE HALL, CARNEGIE INSTITUTE,
PITTSBURGH]
years. The Hall of Sculpture, designed on lines of the Parthenon, is two
stories high, around the first story is a Greek Doric colonnade; above
this is a row of Ionic columns, all of the most flawless, milk-white,
Pantelicon marble, dug out of the quarries from which the marble of the
Parthenon itself was obtained; collections of sculpture represent,
chronologically, its history from early Egyptian to the Renaissance of
the sixteenth century.
Among the artists represented in the permanent collection of paintings
are Dagnan Bouveret, “Disciples at Emmaus”; Winslow Homer, “Wreck”;
Whistler, “Sarasate”; E. A. Abbey, “The Penance of Eleanor”; George
Innes, “The Clouded Sun”; also Anton Mauve, Bastien Le Page, Raffaelli,
Gari Melchers, Jules Simon, and Childe Hassam. Annual exhibitions of
international modern art are held in May and June, and many others by
different art societies during the year. In the Entrance Hall are mural
decorations by the late John W. Alexander, a native of Pittsburgh,
typifying “The Apotheosis of Pittsburgh”; they surround the staircase
and galleries to the third floor. Art societies holding annual
exhibitions at the Carnegie Institute are, Associated Artists of
Pittsburgh, organized, 1910; Art Society of Pittsburgh, organized, 1873,
supported the Pittsburgh Orchestra for fifteen years, and gives
excellent free exhibitions and lectures; Duquesne Ceramic Club,
organized, 1891; Pittsburgh Architectural Club, Chapter Architectural
League of America, organized, 1897. Pittsburgh Etching Club, organized,
1909, held exhibition of Whistler’s etchings in 1914.
In the park, west of this building, is the Christopher Magee memorial
fountain, made in 1907, granite, sculptor, Augustus Saint Gaudens. In
front is Industry Statue, marble, after model in the Louvre, Paris. The
Technical School, brick, built, 1905, architect, Henry Hornbostel,
includes, in the art course, day and evening classes in applied design,
and department of architecture. The Pittsburgh Athletic Association,
architects, Janssen & Abbott, has interior decorations by Alfred Herter,
and collection of paintings. Drinking fountain, Fifth Avenue, front of
Montefiore Hall, placed in 1912, granite, with carved profile of an
Indian; inscription, “Catahecassa, Black Hoof, war chief of the
Shawnees,” was present at Braddock’s defeat in 1754, a friend and ally
of the United States.
In SCHENLEY FARMS, directly opposite the entrance to Schenley Park, is
the University of Pittsburgh, on a natural amphitheater. The buildings
stand out very effectively against the sky line; founded in 1887,
architect, Henry Hornbostel; landscape architect, Cass Gilbert; has
departments of fine and industrial arts. Memorial Hall to Soldiers and
Sailors of the Civil and Spanish Wars contains historic flags, statues,
trophies and historical portraits.
Other parks are ALLEGHENY, north side, ninety acres, with monuments in
honor of Washington, equestrian, made 1891, sculptor, Frederick Mayer;
Baron von Humboldt, made 1869; Thomas A. Armstrong; and the Hampton
Monument, made 1871, granite shaft, surmounted by bronze figure of a
gunner, commemorates the bravery of Hampton’s Battery in the Civil War.
Within east entrance of Allegheny Cemetery is the Arsenal Explosion
Monument in honor of those who lost their lives September 17, 1862.
Monument to General Alexander Hays, who was killed in the battle of the
Wilderness, in 1864, by soldiers of his command. Gothic receiving vault.
The Bindley mausoleum, replica of Napoleon’s tomb in Paris, pure example
of the Renaissance, has window by William and Annie Lee Willet. The
Porter Angel and Cross, imported from Italy, fine example of marble
carving. The Byers mausoleum, imitation of Temple of Minerva at Athens,
white granite. Near by is the United States Arsenal, in ornamental
grounds. RIVERSIDE PARK, on Perrysville Avenue, 217 acres purchased by
popular subscription in 1894, has beautiful drives and footpaths;
contains the observatory, connected with Allegheny University, in which
the telescope was made by Mr. and Mrs. Tillinghast, in their home
workshop opposite.
HIGHLAND PARK, 300 acres, northeast limit of city, acquired, 1872, has
main water reservoirs and the Zoological Gardens; main gateway is 56
feet high with Doric columns, surmounted by bronze groups representing
“Welcome,” and bronze figures at base; Stanton Avenue entrance has two
granite pedestals surmounted by equestrian statues, sculptor, G.
Moretti, made 1897; in the park is Robert Burns statue, sculptor, J.
Massey Rhind; and heroic bronze group, portrait statue, sculptor, G.
Moretti, of Stephen C. Foster, 1826-64, standing pen in hand, beside a
negro who is seated and playing a banjo; Foster wrote “Old Uncle Ned”
and “Old Folks at Home”; was native of Pittsburgh; his grave is in
Allegheny Cemetery. The view from Highland Park is very beautiful.
Highland and Schenley Parks are connected by Highland Avenue and the
Boulevard, making a continuous drive which forms the Carnegie promenade.
The Soldiers’ Monument is on Monument Hill, erected in 1871, to four
thousand men of Allegheny County killed in the Civil War. Wayside
Fountain, Fifth Avenue near Woodland Road.
Churches with notable architecture and windows: RODEF SHALOM Synagogue,
Fifth Avenue and Morewood Street, architect, Henry Hornbostel, is said
to have the finest tile dome in this country; windows, antique glass,
from original drawings, made by William and Annie Lee Willet. ST. PAUL’S
Roman Catholic Cathedral, Fifth Avenue, corner of Craig Street, stone,
fourteenth century Gothic, built, 1907, architects, Egan & Prindeville;
has beautiful altar of carved Carrara marble; pews and pulpit made of
bog oak from Ireland; bronze stations, by Seibel, said to be largest and
most artistic in the world; the great west window transepts,
clerestories, ornamental and heraldic glass made by Willet, in the later
delicate French Gothic spirit; also there is here much modern German and
English glass. FIRST BAPTIST, Bellefield Avenue and Bayard Street, pure
Gothic, fourteenth century, stone, built, 1902, architects, Cram,
Goodhue & Ferguson.
THIRD PRESBYTERIAN, Fifth Avenue and South Negley Street, one of the
most beautiful Gothic churches in the United States for spontaneity of
design, warmth, and golden tints of stone; architect, Theophilus P.
Chandler; windows by Willet are “The
[Illustration: THE CROWNING OF LABOR
Fragment from the Apotheosis of Pittsburgh, Mural in the Carnegie
Institute, Pittsburgh
_Painted by John W. Alexander_]
Ten Virgins,” made, 1904, “The Holy City,” 1905, of great beauty and
color; and fine ornamental windows in clear glass with heraldic
ornaments, in medieval hand-wrought lead; transept windows by Tiffany,
American opalescent glass; east aisle window by Kenyon Cox; west aisle
by McCausland, Toronto; this is an excellent church in which to study
the different schools of glass.
CALVARY Protestant Episcopal, Shady Avenue and Walnut Street, Bedford
limestone, thirteenth century Gothic, copy of Netley Abbey, architect,
Ralph Adams Cram; the windows by William and Annie Lee Willet are among
the most notable contributions to stained-glass art in this country,
recalling those of the great Chartres Cathedral, with amount of painting
reduced to a minimum, and lead treated as respectfully as the glass;
also a Tiffany window, and some excellent English glass. EPIPHANY Roman
Catholic, Washington and Franklin Streets, Romanesque, with Byzantine
details, contains some beautiful art work, including “The Twelve
Apostles,” by Taber Sears. FIRST PRESBYTERIAN, Sixth Avenue and Wood
Street, site deeded by John Penn in 1787; stone, French Gothic, erected
in 1905, architect, T. P. Chandler, Philadelphia, has fine echo organ
and chimes; windows by Tiffany, Lamb, and Clayton & Bell, London;
medallion window and ornamental work by Willet. In LUTHERAN Church,
Sixth Avenue, sanctuary window by Clayton & Bell, purely flat
decoration, also window by Frederick Wilson. MOUNT ALVERNIA Chapel,
Order of St. Francis, contains mural decorations by William Willet.
METHODIST, Beech Avenue, NORTH SIDE, stained glass window by Tiffany.
Near by is the Carnegie Free Library, Federal and Ohio Streets,
Romanesque; Fox Island granite with red granite trimmings; built, 1890;
architect, H. H. Richardson; contains Library, Art Gallery, and Music
Hall; in front is monument to Colonel James Anderson, red granite with
bronze portrait bust, 1785-1861, sculptor, Daniel Chester French.
Allegheny Post Office, French Renaissance, built, 1898, noted for gold
dome; near by is colossal statue of “Labor.”
Allegheny County Courthouse, Fifth Avenue and Grant Street, Romanesque,
Worcester granite and marble, tower 425 feet high, built, 1888, the
masterpiece of the great architect, H. H. Richardson; its interiors are
equally imposing, the proportions of the corridors and especially the
fan lancet, and convex-shaped ceiling, with its thousands of interlacing
arches, twenty-one of which can be seen at one glance from the base of
one of the stairways, excites the admiration of all beholders; it is
without any other decoration but the beauty of its lines and shadows.
Gaol is connected by facsimile of Bridge of Sighs. Frick building, built
in 1902, Fifth Avenue and Grant Street, architects, D. H. Burnham & Co.,
a granite office structure twenty stories high, of the Greek Doric
order; erected to express grace and beauty; batters from stylobate to
cornice, three feet narrower at top than base; basement and entrance
halls lined with Carrara marble; panels of Pavonazzo marble in ceiling;
offices decorated with frescoes of the old Italian school; restaurant,
medieval German; the Club story, Louis XIV style, is in stucco,
[Illustration: THE BLOCK HOUSE, PITTSBURGH]
marble, bronze, and frescoes; two large bronze lions by Phimister
Proctor are in entrance hall.
Bank of Pittsburgh, Fourth Avenue near Wood Street, classic, Alden &
Harlow, architects, has mural decorations, allegorical of Pittsburgh, by
Edwin H. Blashfield and the late Francis D. Millet. Iron City Bank,
Westinghouse Building, mural decorations by William Willet. Farmer’s
Deposit Bank, sculptured frieze by J. Massey Rhind. Chamber of Commerce
contains portraits of many prominent citizens. Friendship School,
Friendship and Graham Streets, historical paintings of Penn, Washington,
and Lincoln, by William Willet. View of the city seen from Mount
Washington, with rivers and encircling hills, is more or less enveloped
in smoke, excepting Sunday. Seventy-five per cent of the smoke nuisance
in Pittsburgh has been abated.
BRADDOCK, population 20,879, on Monongahela River, twelve miles below
Pittsburgh, famous, first as battle ground, General Braddock’s defeat by
French and Indians, 1754, when General Washington won his spurs, now is
home of the Carnegie Steel Company. St. Mary’s Protestant Episcopal
Church, windows and mural decorations by William and Annie Lee Willet,
Philadelphia. At mouth of the Youghiogheny River, so named by early
explorers from hearing Indians calling to each other across its width,
something that sounded like it, and meaning “Come again.” MCKEESPORT,
home of the National Tube Company, producing more wrought iron pipes
than any other plant in the world; St. Peter’s Church, altar window by
William and Annie Lee Willet.
Down the Ohio River, about six miles from Pittsburgh, begins Seven Mile
Island, a garden spot, one time home of the famous Queen Alliquippa. Six
miles farther is SEWICKLEY (Sweetwater), population 4955, named by
Indians on account of its maple trees, on Lincoln Highway, a beautiful
residence section with country estates which rival those about
Philadelphia and New York. St. James’ Church, window by William Willet.
WILKINSBURG, population 24,403, within fifteen minutes of Carnegie
Institute, has Wilkensburg Bank, classic, marble, built, 1909,
architects, Moubly & Ussinger; and Rowland Theatre, built, 1912,
Corinthian, architect, Hodgkinson.
XX
MIFFLIN COUNTY
Formed September 19, 1789; named for General Thomas Mifflin, then
President of the Supreme Executive Council of Pennsylvania, 1788-90, and
first Governor under the Constitution of 1790. Scenery throughout is
very beautiful; the twelve mile stretch of State highway through the
famous long Lewistown Narrows, gives glimpses of the Juniata, the
peerless little river of more song and romance than any other in
America, made famous by Mrs. Sullivan’s song, “The Beautiful Blue
Juniata,” telling the love story of Alfarata, the roving Indian girl;
the space between the mountains is barely wide enough to contain the
highway, canal, river, and railroad. Mountains slope one thousand feet
and are popular hunting grounds for bear and wild turkeys; quite a
number of caves are found in the limestone formations of this county,
though not easily accessible; Alexander’s, in Kishacoquillas Valley,
abounds in stalactites and stalagmites, preserving in midsummer ice
formed in winter; Naginey’s Cave, near Milroy, is most spacious;
Hanawalt’s Cave, near McVeytown, is of vast dimensions and contains
calcareous concretions; crude saltpetre has been obtained here;
McVeytown is birthplace of Joseph Trimble Rothrock, M.D.
Celebrated springs are Mifflin, near Painterville Station, has medicinal
waters; and Logan’s, six miles from Lewistown, near Reedsville, on left
of the old
[Illustration: MIFFLIN COUNTY]
stage road between Lewistown and Bellefonte, Center County; here the
Mingo Chief, Logan, friend of white man, Shikellimy’s son, had his
cabin, prior to 1771, when he left this region; he made the famous
speech sent to Lord Dunmore in 1774, considered, among American
classics, as a rare specimen of Indian oratory: “I appeal to any white
man to say if ever he entered Logan’s cabin hungry, and he gave him not
meat; if he ever came cold and naked, and he clothed him not; during the
course of the last long bloody war Logan remained idle in his cabin, an
advocate for peace. Such was my love for the whites that my countrymen
pointed at me as they passed, and said: ‘Logan is the friend of white
men.’ I had even thought to have lived with you, but for the injuries of
one man, Colonel Cresap, the last spring, in cold blood and unprovoked,
murdered all the relations of Logan, not sparing even my women and
children; there runs not a drop of my blood in the veins of any living
creature; this called on me for revenge; I have sought it; I have killed
many; I have glutted my vengeance; for my country, I rejoice at the
beams of peace, but do not think that mine is the joy of fear; Logan
never felt fear. Logan will not turn on his heel to save his life; who
is there to mourn for Logan? Not one!” (Colonel Michael Cresap was not
responsible for the murder of Logan’s family; some white men, led by a
liquor dealer, murdered them.)
First settlers, Scotch-Irish, in 1754, were not molested by Indians
until 1756. Fort Granville was built, one mile northwest of Lewistown,
on the old turnpike, site to be marked by the Pennsylvania State
Historical Society; it was destroyed when the canal was constructed. In
1829 the Pennsylvania Canal was opened and first packet boat run from
Lewistown to Mifflintown. Chief industries are agriculture, and iron and
steel works. Iron ore of the best quality abounds; two furnaces,
belonging to the Glamorgan Iron Company, were destroyed in July, 1874,
by a tornado that left scarcely a property without damage; the bridge
over the Juniata was also destroyed, rebuilt, and again destroyed by ice
freshets in December, 1874, and February, 1875. In Limestone Ridge,
extending from Kishacoquillas Creek, is found hard, white sandstone,
almost pure silicon, used in glass manufacture.
LEWISTOWN, population 9849, made county seat, 1790, was at first
Kishacoquillas’ Village, a chief of the Shawnees, with a population in
1731, of twenty families, located at the mouth of the stream.
Courthouse, facing the square, brick, colonial with Ionic portico, and
cupola, built, 1843, enlarged in the rear. Granite monument, dedicated,
1906, in honor of Mifflin County soldiers and sailors, is in the square.
One block away on South Main Street is the Kishacoquillas Creek bridge,
stone and concrete, built, 1902, a reconstruction of the old two-arch
stone bridge built in 1807, the first was wood, in 1794; on the left is
an old stone building, erected about 1794, a historic landmark that has
served for many uses, once the “Seven Stars Inn,” 1828-29; also a
Masonic hall, 1830-39, it has two cellars, one beneath the other. At a
point along the creek, just above the old building, is where Commodore
David Conner, as a boy, made little boats and pitted
[Illustration: OLD STONE ARCH ON JACK’S CREEK
Built over one hundred years ago]
them against each other in mimic warfare, thus foreshadowing his
brilliant naval career in the War of 1812 and the Mexican War. Just
above, on the high bank, fronting on Water and Brown Streets, is
Lewistown’s oldest burial grounds. Here are the graves of the Buchanan
family, first settlers and owners of the land on which Lewistown is
built. One mile east of Lewistown, on the oldest wagon and stage road
running parallel with the present state highway, is an old stone arch
bridge, over one hundred years old, a favorite subject for artists; it
is near the bridge crossing Jacks Creek, on the state highway through
Lewistown Narrows. MOUNT UNION, on southern boundary, lies at entrance
to Jacks Narrows, made by the river forcing its way through Jacks
Mountain.
[Illustration: DELAWARE COUNTY]
XXI
DELAWARE COUNTY
Formed from Chester County, September 26, 1789; named for Delaware
River. Automobile Trip to Chester, return by Media and Swarthmore
From Thirty-second and Market Streets, Philadelphia, out Woodland Avenue
(Darby Road), laid out in 1687, the old King’s Road, pass UNIVERSITY OF
PENNSYLVANIA buildings, to WOODLANDS CEMETERY, between Thirty-ninth to
Forty-second Streets, seventy-five acres, acquired in 1840, contains
colonial homestead, residence of William Hamilton, English Deputy
Governor of Pennsylvania, under grant from William Penn, built, 1747-50,
stone and brick; has portico, with pediment supported by six columns;
considered by architects best specimen of colonial architecture in
Philadelphia; many rare trees are there, sent by Mr. Hamilton in his
trips abroad; to him Philadelphia owes the gingko tree of Japan and many
varieties of magnolia.
BARTRAM’S GARDEN, 28 acres, open free to the public, one quarter mile
south on Fifty-fourth Street, first botanical garden of international
importance in United States; ground purchased by John Bartram, in 1728;
from here he traveled long distances to Florida, the Adirondacks,
everywhere collecting rare plants that he brought home in his
saddlebags; he wrote down the results of his explorations, and sent to
Europe botanical specimens of great interest, also painted sheets of
illustrations, sending one set to the South Kensington Museum, London,
which are still there in perfect condition; Linnæus proclaimed him the
greatest natural botanist in the world, and sent him books and
apparatus; his quaint old stone house is still standing, built by
himself in 1731; his son, William Bartram, botanist and ornithologist,
published the most complete list of American birds, previous to
Alexander Wilson, whom he greatly assisted. Wilson lived at the corner
of Fifty-first Street and Woodland Avenue, in a log house with an
immense stone chimney. Near Bartram’s Garden, on the Schuylkill River
bank, at the western end of Gray’s Ferry Bridge, is site of Gray’s
Garden, pleasure resort, time of Washington, reached from Philadelphia
by a floating bridge, replaced by wooden telescope drawbridge built in
1808, by the P., W. & B. R. R.; stone monument, still standing, covered
with most interesting and historically valuable inscriptions, marks
opening of the first railroad to the South.
Sixty-fifth Street and Woodland Avenue, St. James’ Protestant Episcopal
Church, Kingsessing, built by the Swedes, 1762, building practically
unchanged, has interesting burial ground. Sixty-ninth Street and
Paschall Avenue is an old yellow mansion, built about 1723, home of the
Paschalls, General Howe’s headquarters after the Battle of Brandywine.
Seventieth Street and Woodland Avenue, quaint old building, the Bannaker
School, built in 1789, said to be oldest public-school building in
Philadelphia, now used in connection with the school garden.
Seventy-third Street, Blue Bell Tavern, opposite, was terminus of the
great trading path of the Minquas Indians leading from the Susquehanna;
Island Road leads to “Cannon Ball” farmhouse, below Penrose Ferry,
struck during bombardment of Fort Mifflin in 1777.
Crossing Cobb’s Creek, the southern boundary of the city, and county of
Philadelphia, we enter DELAWARE COUNTY, the oldest settled section of
Pennsylvania. DARBY, an ancient town, birthplace of John Bartram,
contains many old houses, and a Friends’ meeting house, dating from the
eighteenth century, with picturesque burying ground, where many colonial
notables lie in unmarked graves; SHARON HILL, residential suburb,
Convent of Holy Child Jesus, occupies buildings erected for John
Jackson’s Quaker School, famous in the middle of the last century; new
decorated Gothic chapel of stone. Beyond NORWOOD is the old White Horse
Hotel, now abandoned, built, 1720.
One and one-half miles to left, at ESSINGTON, on Tinicum Island, first
permanent European settlement in Pennsylvania made by Swedes under
Governor John Printz, 1643; fort built, named “New Gottenburg”; and
government established. RIDLEY PARK, residential suburb; fine view to
left, of Tinicum and the Delaware River, old quarantine station known as
the Lazaretto; the Corinthian and Philadelphia Yacht Clubs are on the
river front. LEIPERVILLE, McIlvain house, stone, opposite Colonial
Hotel; Washington spent the night here after the Battle of Brandywine,
and troops were encamped on slopes to the right. Hendrixson house, very
ancient, built by Swedish settlers. Pass Baldwin Locomotive Works and
great munition factories into CHESTER, population 58,030, settled by
Swedes about 1644, the oldest town in Pennsylvania, known as Upland
until 1682, when Penn, landing here on October 28, named it Chester
after the home of his companion, Pearson, in England. Penn convened
here, in November, 1682, the first Assembly of the Province, at which
was passed the “Great Law”; the Upland court was held here from 1668 to
1682; the courts of Chester County from 1682 until their removal to West
Chester in 1786, and the courts of Delaware County from 1789 to 1851;
Chester has grown from an ancient country town to a bustling industrial
city, but many antiquities are preserved; principal among these are the
old City Hall, stone, with pent roof projection and quaint clock tower,
erected in 1724; the oldest public building in Pennsylvania, and one of
the oldest in America; used as Chester County courthouse for sixty-two
years, Delaware County courthouse for sixty-one years, and as hall of
Chester borough and city since 1851; now being restored by the
Pennsylvania Historical Commission and Honorable William C. Sproul,
under contract that the city will maintain it for public uses forever.
Opposite on Market Street is the Washington House, erected and licensed
as the “Pennsylvania Arms” in 1747, still maintained as a tavern; in
this house, at midnight on September 11, 1777, Washington wrote his
report to Congress of the Battle of Brandywine. Hope’s Anchor Tavern,
Fourth and Market Streets, built by David Cowpland prior to 1746. Group
of old houses at Second and Edgmont Streets, Logan house, 1700, where
Lafayette’s wounds were dressed after the
[Illustration: ALFRED O. DESHING MEMORIAL ART GALLERY, CHESTER
_Frazer and Robert, Architects_]
Battle of Brandywine, and Lloyd house, built in 1703 by David Lloyd,
chief justice of Pennsylvania; here also stood the first courthouse, or
“House of Defense,” and first Quaker meeting.
Across Chester Creek, at the foot of Penn Street, is a memorial stone,
erected on the two hundredth anniversary, to mark the spot where William
Penn first landed in Pennsylvania; and near by, Lord Baltimore and
William Markham, in 1681, took observations to determine the fortieth
parallel of latitude, and location of boundary between Pennsylvania and
Maryland; also site of Essex House, home of Robert Wade, wherein was
held, in 1675, the first Friends meeting in Pennsylvania. Blue Anchor
Tavern and Steamboat Hotel, near Second and Market Streets, bear marks
of bombardment by the British frigate Augusta in 1777. Friends meeting
house, erected, 1736, modernized in 1882; Friends Burying Ground formed,
1692, contains graves of Chief Justice David Lloyd, who died in 1731,
and Grace Lloyd, his wife, who died in 1760, Justice Caleb Cowpland,
Judge Henry Hale Graham, and, in unmarked tombs, many of the founders
and pioneers of the commonwealth.
St. Paul’s graveyard, Third and Market Streets; tomb of John Morton, a
signer of the Declaration of Independence, who cast the deciding vote in
the Pennsylvania delegation; also of D. Paul Jackson, Burgess of
Chester, who was the first man to receive a degree from the University
of Pennsylvania; and a quaint old memorial cut in sandstone with oddly
carved figures and devices, dedicated to James Sandelands, who died,
1693, taken from the old church, erected in 1703. Chester Rural
Cemetery, burial place of General Edward F. Beale, pioneer of
California; has many interesting memorials.
Alfred O. Deshong Memorial Park of twenty-eight acres, in the heart of
the city, with white marble art gallery, late Italian Renaissance,
finished in 1916, designed by Brazer & Robb, New York, for Mr. Deshong’s
collection of about 200 paintings, bronzes, ivories, etc.; rare Japanese
bronze lanterns and figures are in the grounds, and two remarkable
bronze dogs with paws on cloisonné balls, at entrance; fine bronze doors
and grills; also his old mansion, all given to the city of Chester with
a large endowment, for public use forever. St. Paul’s Protestant
Episcopal Church, Broad and Madison Streets, founded in 1702, third
building of this congregation, erected, 1900; twelfth century English
Gothic, granite and limestone, architects, Nattress & Son; altar by
Nattress, white marble; mosaic reredos, “The Supper at Emmaus,” after
Rembrandt; chancel window by Tiffany, “Conversion of St. Paul,” after
Doré; memorial to Rev. Henry Brown, rector for thirty years; clerestory
windows, four Evangelists, by Nicola d’Ascenzo; chalice and salver given
by Sir Jeffry Jeffrys in 1705, chalice and salver given by Queen Anne,
in 1707, all of beautifully hammered silver, still in use; fine chime of
ten bells; large folio Bible given at founding of the church by the
Society in London, for the Propagation of the Gospel in Foreign Parts,
to which St. Paul’s owed much in its early years.
St. Michael’s Roman Catholic Church, Edgmont Avenue above Seventh
Street, granite, Gothic, fine altar and paintings. First Baptist Church,
Seventh and Fulton Streets, stone, Gothic, founded, 1850, third edifice
endowed by the Gartside and Crozer families. First Presbyterian Church,
Fourth and Welsh Streets, brick, stuccoed, erected in 1852, fine
memorial windows. Third Presbyterian Church, Broad and Potter Streets,
stone, fine windows and carvings in wood. Madison Street Methodist
Episcopal Church, Seventh and Madison Streets, organized in 1818 by John
Kelly in his home; afterward services were held in the Courthouse for
many years, where Bishop Asbury preached; present church erected, 1874,
green serpentine. High school, stone, with commanding tower, West Ninth
Street, modeled after Post Office Building at Washington.
Pennsylvania Military College, Fourteenth Street, handsome buildings
with complete military and academic equipment; incorporated as a
military university in 1862, by Colonel Theodore Hyatt; contributed many
officers to the nation’s service; present buildings erected in 1882,
after a fire which destroyed the original structures. Chester Park and
Crozer Park contain about 150 acres in valleys of Ridley and Chester
creeks. Chester is a port of entry and contains large shipyards, steel,
engineering, and textile industries.
UPLAND, founded by John P. Crozer in 1845 when he established cotton
mills there on the site of the old Chester Mills, on Chester Creek,
immediately adjoining the town of Chester; Chester Mills were built by
Caleb Pusey in 1683, at the first water power above tide on Chester
Creek; the mill, framed in England and brought over in the _Welcome_,
was owned by Pusey, William Penn, and Samuel Carpenter; house, erected
by Pusey in 1682, is probably the oldest structure in Pennsylvania.
Crozer Theological Seminary, endowed by John P. Crozer, and sons,
occupies buildings overlooking Chester, erected by John P. Crozer in
1858 for a normal school, used in Civil War as hospital, and occupied
for a time by the Pennsylvania Military Academy; Pearl Hall, the
seminary library, was built by William Bucknell, in memory of his wife;
green serpentine in form of a cross; contains many rare books and the
only known copies of many Baptist theological works; Crozer Hospital and
Home for Incurables, fine stone buildings, were endowed by J. Lewis
Crozer, who also left a large endowment for a free library in Chester.
An old house on Upland Dairy Farm, now much distorted by modernization,
built by Thomas Brazey in 1696, was for many years the home of the West
family, collateral descendants of Benjamin West.
On Providence Road, first highway to be laid out in Pennsylvania,
leading from Chester to the back townships, is LAPIDEA MANOR, residence
of Governor William C. Sproul, colonial house, erected by Thomas Leiper,
for his son James, enlarged in 1909 by Mr. Sproul, architect, W. L.
Price; contains notable library with collection of Pennsylvania and
local books and antiquities, paintings, and curios; interior wood
carvings by Maene; on the fine grounds is a clock-tower, containing a
bell cast in Bristol in 1741, for St. Paul’s Church, Chester, and for
125 years was the only church bell in the town; across the grounds is to
be seen the grade of the first railroad in America, built by Thomas
Leiper in 1809, to carry stone from his quarries at Avondale to
tidewater on Ridley Creek, where it was loaded in barges to be taken to
the Delaware breakwater.
MOYLAN, south of Media, art colony, residence of Charles H. Stephens and
Mrs. Charles H. Stephens (Alice Barber), contains valuable North
American Indian collection, the old stone building, remodeled for art
studios and dwellings, is among the most interesting in the county.
Southwest of MEDIA is the Williamson free school of mechanical trades;
generously endowed; built in 1888; includes twenty-four buildings on 230
acres; pupils between sixteen and eighteen years of age are received;
they live as families, twenty-four in a cottage with a matron;
preference to those born in Pennsylvania; benefits of school are
entirely free, including boarding, instruction, and clothing during the
entire course of three years.
MEDIA, county seat from 1851, population 4109; charter, with famous
provision against sale of intoxicants, still intact, was granted, 1850:
Courthouse with ample square, formed nucleus of the town; present
building, modified colonial, Avondale marble, architects, Brazer & Robb.
Old Providence Friends Meeting House, built, 1699; original Taylor log
cabin is on State Street, and the old Rowland mansion. Christ Protestant
Episcopal Church, stone, Gothic, has altar painting, “Murillo’s Holy
Family,” copied by P. McIlhenny. Presbyterian Church, modified classic.
Leiper Presbyterian Church, Gothic, Avondale marble, midway between
Leiperville and Swarthmore, built in 1800, Andrew Jackson, James
Buchanan, and Elisha Kent Kane, while guests of Judge George G. Leiper,
worshiped here, slates on the roof were brought from Scotland; near is
colonial residence of Perry Lukens on Fairview Road, hardware and other
materials were brought from England, has original latch string lock.
AVONDALE, old colonial residence of Thomas Leiper, near Crum Creek,
built on plan of his Scotch home.
WALLINGFORD, residence of late Dr. Horace Howard Furness, America’s
greatest Shakespearean scholar. He left a working library of several
thousand Shakespeare books, including “The Variorum” edited with his
son. SWARTHMORE, college, founded, 1864, by members of the Hicksite
Society of Friends, is located on a hill with a fine view of the
Delaware River, campus over 200 acres, includes large tract of woodland
and rocky valley of Crum Creek; buildings, mostly stone, French
Renaissance, include the Sproul Astronomical Observatory, built in 1911,
gift of William C. Sproul, contains one of the best telescopes in
America; Library, English collegiate Gothic, built, 1907, local stone,
with terra-cotta and Indiana limestone trimmings, architect, Edward L.
Tilton, New York; the reading room is open through two stories, height
twenty feet with gallery on three sides; Gothic beamed ceiling and
leaded ceiling lights, interior finished with dark oak. In fireproof
tower room is the Anson Lapham Friends’ Historical Library, one of the
largest collections of Quakeriana in America, contains original
manuscripts of John Woolman’s Journal.
Near the Library stands a house with gambrel roof, built in 1724,
marked, with tablet, by Delaware County Historical Society, “Birthplace
of Benjamin West, born in 1738, first great American painter, founder
and second President of the Royal Academy, London”; exterior unchanged,
now residence of college professors; the college owns, and is still
collecting original paintings and drawings by West. Meeting house
built, 1881, follows the traditions of early colonial style. Parrish
Hall, the main building, erected 1864-69, rebuilt after the fire in
1881, contains a portrait of George Fox by Sir Peter Lely, and other
interesting portraits of early Friends and later benefactors of the
college. Wharton Hall, men’s dormitories, built in form of Oxford
quadrangle, architects, Buntley & Sprigley. Stone gateway, north
entrance, designed by Frederick B. Pyle.
[Illustration: LYCOMING COUNTY]
XXII
LYCOMING COUNTY
Formed April 13, 1795; named for creek called by Delaware Indians
Legani-hanna (Sandy Stream) or Lycaumic; mountainous with rolling hills;
North Mountain, highest land, 2550 feet above sea level. Formerly a
lumber region, now chief industries are agriculture and manufacturing.
WILLIAMSPORT, county seat, founded, 1796, population 36,198, has a
system of well kept roads; the Grampian and Vallamont drives wind over
the hills north of the city, giving a view, over the West Branch Valley,
that is remarkable for extent and beauty. Courthouse built in 1860, city
hall, and post office are mid-Victorian. Masonic buildings include the
Masonic Temple, Scottish Rites Building, Acacia Club, and Howard Club.
Franklin School, Mulberry Street, North of East Fourth Street, has mural
decorations of local scenery, “A Sweep of the Susquehanna Near Jersey
Shore,” artist, J. Wesley Little.
Christ Protestant Episcopal Church, East Fourth and Mulberry Streets,
has windows from England, also by Tiffany and Lamb. “The James V. Brown
Public Library,” East Fourth Street, French Renaissance, Pennsylvania
white marble, built in 1907, architect, Edgar V. Seeler, Philadelphia;
contains a small permanent collection of paintings and an original
portrait of Washington, by Rembrandt Peale, painted in 1795; art
exhibitions are held here. Central Presbyterian Church, opposite Park
Hotel, has windows by J. & R. Lamb. Covenant Presbyterian, West Fourth
and Center Streets, has large windows by Tiffany and Lamb. Trinity
Protestant Episcopal, West Fourth Street and Trinity Place, modern
parish house, used as a community center. Opposite is Way’s Garden, two
and one-half acres, with fine old elm trees. Annunciation, Roman
Catholic Church, West Fourth and Walnut Streets, Tiffany window, “The
Ascension.” St. John’s Protestant Episcopal, architects, Duhring, Okie &
Ziegler, windows by Nicola d’Ascenzo.
Brandon Park, beautiful with fine shrubbery, trees, and winding paths,
has a band shell, playgrounds, swimming pool. Monument erected by
Daughters of the American Revolution, Fourth and Cemetery Streets, on
site of massacre of white settlers by Indians. Site of French Margaret’s
Village, niece of Madame Montour, noted on Scull’s map, in 1759, is now
within limits of the seventh ward; she was a notable character and
enforced prohibition in her town; four miles east of Williamsport, on
west side, mouth of Loyalsock Creek, near Montoursville, is site of
Ostonwakin or Otsuagy, home of Madame Montour, famous French halfbreed,
who lived there from 1727, and was still there in 1742, when Count
Zinzendorf came to the village. The great Indian Trail from Muncy led up
the Susquehanna River, on line of the present highway, through
Ostonwakin, to East Third Street, Williamsport, then north of Third and
Penn Streets to Park Street, there turned to West Fourth Street and to
Lycoming Creek, French Margaret’s town.
MUNCY, population 2054, on site of Fort Wallis, in
[Illustration: LYCOMING CREEK NEAR WILLIAMSPORT]
1778, commanded by Colonel Thomas Hartley. St. James’ Protestant
Episcopal Church, built, 1859, English Gothic, architect, Richard
Upjohn, New York, who first used principles of Gothic architecture in
America; has Tiffany memorial window to Rev. Edwin Lightener. In Muncy
Cemetery is monument to John Brady, famous Indian fighter, granite shaft
of excellent proportions; his grave is in the old Hall’s burial ground
at Hall’s Station. Site of Fort Brady; south side of Muncy, residence of
Captain John Brady, fortified by stockade, was place of refuge,
continuing so after his death; burned with Fort Muncy in 1779, when
Muncy Valley was overrun. Another on the frontier was Fort Minigar,
built, 1774, at White Deer Mills, north bank of White Deer Creek,
probably stockade, included both fort and mills, burned, 1779. Picture
Rocks village, founded, 1848, here Indian picture writings formerly
decorated walls of rocks, rising from Big Muncy Creek. Studio of the
late J. Wesley Little. Fort Antes, opposite Jersey Shore, marked by
Daughters of the American Revolution.
[Illustration: SOMERSET COUNTY]
XXIII
SOMERSET COUNTY
Formed April 17, 1795; named for Somerset, England. Chief industries are
agriculture and mining. A mountain country of remarkable beauty, largely
forests, although glades, or natural meadows, about the headwaters of
streams are numerous and extensive enough to have the name, “The
Glades,” applied to the whole county; standing on the summit of either
mountain range that bounds it, east and west, one gets a view of
unsurpassed beauty; at distance of twenty miles the other stands out in
bold outline, with intervening country of hill, valley, forest, glade,
and numerous watercourses, which find their way to the Ohio,
Susquehanna, and Potomac rivers; immortalized in James Whitcomb Riley’s
“’Mongst the Hills of Somerset.”
Nearly all this country, between the crests of the Allegheny Mountains
and Laurel Hills, is one vast coal field, extending over the entire
length, from Maryland to Cambria County, every vein of coal from the
great Pittsburgh seam down being represented. Traditions of Indian
villages are in the famous Turkey Foot, Casselman River forms middle toe
at town of Confluence; also in Elk Lick township, Indian arrowheads and
stone implements are found. In 1749, Christopher Gist, agent of the Ohio
Company, was the first white man known to have crossed Somerset County;
his route, along Nemacolin’s trail, a Delaware Indian chief, led him
through Addison Township and to the, later known, Great Crossing; again
passing through in 1750, he kept a diary.
George Washington in 1753, crossed through Addison Township, with four
frontiersmen, one as Indian interpreter, one French interpreter; every
spot of earth that Washington trod in the line of duty is sacred soil
for all true Americans; he passed through Somerset eleven times; on
Braddock’s ill-fated expedition in 1755, he lay for ten days at Great
Crossing, on a bed of sickness, exempt by order of General Braddock.
First road cut in 1754 was under Washington’s direction, afterwards
substantially the Braddock Road, following Nemacolin’s trail, the chief
who guided him; it began at Cumberland, Maryland, then a fort, and
reached the Youghiogheny River, south of present village of Somerfield,
at the Great Crossing; marked, only historic marker in the county.
The National Turnpike, commenced in 1811, has the same general course,
occasionally using the same roadbed, crosses the Youghiogheny at
Somerfield over a great stone bridge, still in good repair, completed
July 4, 1818, and turned over to the United States on that day.
President James Monroe and members of his Cabinet attended the opening
of the bridge; this road became a great highway, over which passed a
vast commerce, both east and west, wayside inns were nearly every mile,
now none exist; the “Endsley,” stone house, in Somerfield, built, 1818,
long a noted tavern, is now a private residence.
Next great road in the county was the Forbes, or Bouquet Road, cut by
Colonel Bouquet in 1758, it
[Illustration: STEPPING STONES, KIMBERLY RIVER]
traversed the county from east to west, and like the Braddock Road, was
purely military, constructed under protection of a strong army; over it
passed the army of General Forbes on way to conquer Fort Duquesne;
George Washington was with this expedition in command of the first
Virginia regiment. The road started at Bedford and followed an Indian
trail, it was improved between 1785-95 and became known as “The Great
Road”; afterwards about 1806 as the Stoyestown and Bedford Turnpike;
later taken by the State Highway Department, it is now a great speedway,
“The Lincoln Highway,” entering the county at BUCKSTOWN, crossing Stoney
Creek at KANTNER, one mile west is Stoyestown over one hundred years
old; six miles farther west is JENNERSTOWN, laid out in 1822 by General
James Wells, who, in 1771, was wounded by Indians.
On Laurel Hills, three miles west of URSINA, is the Jersey Baptist
Church, with ancient burial ground, has written record since 1775, first
log church built, 1788, twice rebuilt; fine mountain scenery all along
the route, and several places of historic interest, here, and in other
parts of the county, sites of forts which date back to French and Indian
wars and the Revolution, unmarked; few are now living who can point out
the locality of these historic places with any degree of certainty. The
Glades Road, laid out in 1772 from four miles west of Bedford to the
Youghiogheny, via Stoney Creek, was made turnpike in 1816; along this
road in 1810, on a farm nine miles east of Somerset, was born Judge
Jeremiah Sullivan Black, Chief Justice of Pennsylvania; United States
Attorney General; and Secretary of State. First railroad through
Somerset county was the Pittsburgh division of the picturesque Baltimore
& Ohio, opened in 1871, with its famous tunnels. At Mason & Dixon’s line
Negro Mount is about 2825 feet above sea.
SOMERSET, county seat, population 3121; laid out in 1795, elevation
above sea level 2180 feet, has had three consuming fires, and has been
rebuilt with greater beauty. Courthouse built, 1906, French Renaissance,
Indiana limestone, architect, J. H. Fuller, Uniontown; Soldiers’
Monument in grounds, pedestal with names of more than 400 Somerset
County men who died in war for the Union, 1861-65; Somerset Trust
Company, Indiana limestone, built, 1916, architects, Mowbray & Company,
New York, Renaissance, beautiful proportions. Churches, built by E. H.
Walker, Somerset; all with memorial windows, mostly made by Pittsburgh
firms; are, Grace United Evangelical, brick, 1914; the Christian Church
and parsonage, Doric, brick, 1910; St. Paul’s Reformed, Gothic, brick,
remodeled, 1915; also Trinity Lutheran, Corinthian, built, 1877, brick,
architect, M. Simon, Harrisburg. Throughout the county are many
churches; in some places where there is not even the semblance of a
village there are churches that would be a credit to any town.
XXIV
GREENE COUNTY
Formed February 9, 1796; named for General Nathanael Greene. Surface,
fertile valleys, hills, and rolling uplands, making a region of natural
beauty, well watered from the tributaries of the Monongahela River and
Wheeling Creek. There are still a number of covered wooden bridges
throughout the county, from fifty to a hundred years old, a very old
double bridge crosses Ten Mile Creek, one mile east of Waynesburg;
formerly an old forge and furnace were on this creek. Many Indian
village sites that were occupied long before the advent of the whites
are here; their age is indicated by large old trees growing on their
mounds; three distinct forms of ancient burial are found here, showing
that three waves of population swept over this land before the coming of
the Europeans; the two principal Indian mounds now in the county, are at
Crows Mills. Two great Indian trails crossed the southern part of the
state, the Warrior Branch passing through this county to the Ohio River.
A chain of forts crossed Greene Co., ending at Fort Zane, now Wheeling;
three are especially well known--Fort Ryserson and Block House at
western end of county; Fort Jackson west of Waynesburg; and Fort Garard
on Whitely Creek; seven miles west of GREENSBORO, the birthplace of
Robert J. Burdette, and his eminent sister Mary G. Burdette.
[Illustration: GREENE COUNTY]
The earliest glass works were established by Albert Gallatin, on the
Monongahela in 1785; they were the forerunner of the vast business at
Pittsburgh and vicinity. First settlers were Scotch-Irish. Chief
industries, agriculture and the mining of bituminous coal; the
Pittsburgh vein of rich depth and highest coking value, and three other
veins, almost as rich, namely, the Waynesburg, Freeport, and Mapletown.
Oil and gas production is very valuable, there are a number of
gas-pumping stations within the county. The Philadelphia Gas Company has
one at Brave, said to be the largest in the world; near Brave is
JOLLYTOWN, with a monument to Jesse Taylor, first Greene County soldier
to fall in the Civil War.
County seat, WAYNESBURG, population 3332; laid out in 1796; named for
General Anthony Wayne, who with his troops proved most successful in
ridding this section of the Indians. A chain of parks with formal
gardening goes through the center of the town, divided by streets; in
the center of one is the Soldiers’ Monument; erected in 1899; Waynesburg
College, empowered by the Legislature to confer honorary degrees, faces
College Park; portrait of Dr. A. B. Miller, a former president, is in
Alumni Hall. Courthouse, colonial, with cupola, surmounted by wooden
statue of General Greene; was erected in 1852; brick, painted gray, has
six lofty Corinthian columns supporting the front porch. Jail on same
ground.
First Methodist Church, Romanesque, Cleveland stone, has memorial
windows. The public schools are liberally provided with the Elson
photogravures, reproductions of great masterpieces, mostly in sepia.
Five miles southeast of Waynesburg is Gordon Ridge; Nettle Hill sixteen
miles southwest, both notable places of particularly beautiful scenery.
CARMICHAELS, originally New Lisbon, one of the oldest towns, beautifully
located, has Greene Academy, incorporated, 1810; Senator Albert Cummins
was born near here.
XXV
WAYNE COUNTY
Formed March 21, 1798; named for General Anthony Wayne. A picturesque,
mountainous section, possessing more lakes than any other county in the
state, some over 2000 feet above sea, ranging in area from 3 to 358
acres, many of them well stocked with bass, perch, pickerel, and other
fish, while the whole county abounds in trout streams. From north to
south is a wonderful expanse of scenery; FARVIEW, altitude, 1500 feet,
on the Moosic Mountain, near Waymart, includes, in its panorama, the
distant Catskills; from the southern roads, extended views are also
enjoyed. A beautiful drive follows the Wallenpaupack Creek (slow water)
passing the Falls at Hawley, meeting place of the Paupack Indians; good
roads continue to Milford and the Water Gap, or to Gouldsboro, Scranton
and Wilkes-Barre. On the road from Honesdale to Carbondale the path of
the old Delaware & Hudson Gravity Railroad may still be traced.
Early industries were hunting, lumbering, and tanning; now the modern
creamery is an important factor, also stock raising and agriculture. One
hundred years ago a small colony of Germans settled a half mile west of
Bethany and started a glass factory, utilizing native sand and clay;
from 1847 to 1861 window glass was manufactured at Tracyville; in 1865,
Christian Dorflinger built large factories for manufacturing and cutting
glass, at White Mills, five miles south of
[Illustration: WAYNE COUNTY]
Honesdale; glass-cutting factories are now numerous in the county, and
gold decorating of glass has been introduced among Wayne’s industries.
HONESDALE, made the county seat in 1841; population 2756; altitude, 1000
feet; named for Philip Hone, president of the Delaware and Hudson Canal
Company, which started here for tidewater at Rondout on the Hudson,
built 1826-28, abandoned, 1898; Honesdale owes its growth and prosperity
to the canal; it was one of the anthracite stepping stones to a waiting
market. Three locomotives were purchased by the canal company to draw
coal from the mines in Carbondale and vicinity to the canal at
Honesdale; the first one, the Stourbridge Lion, was brought by canal
boat to Honesdale in 1829 and a trial trip was made; the wooden rails,
then used for the railroad, were not firm enough for the strain of the
engine, and it was never run again; however, Wayne County takes
precedence in having had the first locomotive ever run in America make
its trial and only trip at Honesdale; it is now at the Smithsonian
Institute, Washington. The New York & Erie Railroad follows the course
of the old canal through the town.
Courthouse built, 1880; brick with stone trimmings; contains portrait of
General Anthony Wayne, copied from original in Wayne family,
Philadelphia, by Miss Jennie Brownscombe, native of Wayne County; two
large Parrott guns in front are relics of the Civil War. It faces
Central Park, where stands a Soldiers’ Monument, dedicated in 1869 by
Governor John W. Geary; pedestal with bronze plates inscribed with names
of nearly 350 Wayne County men lost in Civil War; also fountain in
center of park, memorial of the National Centennial, both placed by the
women of Honesdale who are said to be the first in the state to organize
a Village Improvement Society; they, aided by the town council, have
done much for the beautifying of the town; the parks have received
special attention; besides Central Park are North Park, and on either
side of the Main Street bridge lie Torrey Park, West, and Riverside
Park, East, overshadowed by Irving Cliff, 300 feet high, named in honor
of Washington Irving, who, while in Honesdale in 1841 with Philip Hone,
climbed to the summit of the ledge overlooking the town.
Grace Protestant Episcopal Church, Gothic, stone, contains white marble
font, good design, gift of Philip Hone, in 1848. Baptist Church, wood,
classic, with Ionic columns supporting the porch, built 1843-45. Glen
Dyberry Cemetery contains grave of Attorney General Samuel E. Dimmick,
died, 1875, marked by granite shaft; his residence, brick, is south of
courthouse. North of Honesdale is stone arched bridge over Carley Brook,
made in 1909; builder, Samuel Brown from England.
BETHANY, first county seat in 1800, was staked out in the primeval
forest. Courthouse, built, 1800, is now used as a store; new courthouse
and brick offices were built 1820-23, the office building still
standing; courthouse was abandoned in 1842, after it was remodeled it
became the University of Northern Pennsylvania, with the public square
as campus, and was burned in 1857. Between the old cemetery and the
street stands the first Presbyterian
[Illustration: RIVERSIDE PARK, IRVING CLIFF, HONESDALE]
church erected in the county, in 1822. Several old dwellings have
beautiful colonial doorways. An old tavern, built by Henry Drinker, in
1802, still stands. PLEASANT MOUNT, altitude, 1600 feet, sixteen miles
north of Honesdale, residence of General Samuel Meredith, officer in the
Revolutionary War, and United States Treasurer under Washington,
commission dated September 11, 1789; he lived near, on manor lands, from
1803-17, said to have been visited by Thomas Jefferson; the house was
burned; granite monument in his honor was erected by the state,
unveiled, 1904, represents a Continental general, from a design by Miss
Clara Keen; architect, Martin Caufield, both of Honesdale.
The Delaware River forms the eastern boundary; a woodland road follows
the river. At MILANVILLE, is the old Skinner house, oldest, still in use
in Wayne County, loopholes near the roof were made for defense against
Indians; many Indian relics were found around here. Wayne County’s only
battlefield, unmarked, is in Sterling township, called “Little Meadows,”
near it passed an old Indian trail, from Delaware River to Wyoming
Valley; on July 4, 1778, the day after the Wyoming Massacre, Indians
attacked a few white people, with loss on both sides. On the Eastern and
Belmont Highway is a nine-sided, stone schoolhouse of early
construction. Three others are found in the county.
[Illustration: ADAMS COUNTY]
XXVI
ADAMS COUNTY
Formed January 22, 1800. Named for John Adams, then President of the
United States; notable for the Battle of Gettysburg; chief industry,
agriculture. County seat, GETTYSBURG, founded in 1786, population 4439.
First court held in residence of General James Gettys; present
courthouse contains portraits of Justices Marshall and Gibson. Federal
Building, the post office, marble, Corinthian, architect, J. Knox
Taylor, Washington, D. C., contains interesting battle-field museum,
maps, and miniature reproductions. The United States Battle Field
Commission has offices here. The Wills Building, at the corner of Center
Square and Lincoln Highway, is where President Lincoln stayed November,
1863, before his famous address. Presbyterian Church, nearly 176 years
old, where President Lincoln worshipped November 19, 1863; the pew he
occupied has a bronze plate; church used as hospital during the battle.
Lutheran Theological Seminary, west of town, on Seminary Ridge, contains
large copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper,” painted by the late
James B. Sward, Philadelphia; also used as hospital by Union soldiers;
it is said that General Lee took observations from its tower; near, in
Reynolds Grove, General John F. Reynolds was killed, place marked by
bronze equestrian statue, sculptor, H. K. Bush-Brown. In the Dobbin
House, stone, on Steinwehr Avenue, built, 1776, was conducted first
classical school in Pennsylvania, west of the Susquehanna. Southeast
corner of Washington and High Streets was the first home of Pennsylvania
College, established in 1832; now northwest of the town on a beautiful
campus; main building, “Old Dorm,” is fine colonial architecture. Jennie
Wade War Museum near cemetery, shows bullet marks, home of only citizen
killed during the battle, has collection of relics and curios. Artists
of note born here are Charles Morris Young and Lytton Buehler.
The BATTLE FIELD covered 16,000 acres, not including cavalry field four
miles east; Union Army was commanded by General George G. Meade, 80,000
to 90,000 men; Confederate Army, commanded by General Robert E. Lee,
about 80,000 to 85,000 men; desperate charges were made in hand-to-hand
conflicts. The cyclorama, “Battle of Gettysburg,” painted by Paul
Philippoteaux, is on exhibition. The Gettysburg Battle Field Memorial
Association was incorporated by the Legislature of Pennsylvania to hold
and preserve the battle ground, with natural and artificial defenses, as
at time of battle, and to mark definitely lines of battle of all troops.
It is now a national park and cemetery, in charge of a commission,
appointed by the Secretary of War, including over 7000 acres with fifty
miles of macadam roads amid most beautiful scenery.
Here we have the greatest number of memorials in Pennsylvania, erected
by the various states. Among the 404 monuments and 894 markers are, The
National Monument, white granite, four figures at base, representing
War, History, Peace, Plenty; shaft supports
[Illustration: OLD PITTSBURGH AND PHILADELPHIA PIKE
This pike, in Adams County, was used by both armies during the Civil
War]
Statue of Liberty; all figures are of Italian marble, carved in Italy,
sculptor, Randolph Rogers; bronze equestrian statue, General George
Gordon Meade, near center of line of battle, sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown;
bronze equestrian statue, General John Sedgwick, north of Little Round
Top, sculptor H. K. Bush-Brown; bronze equestrian statue, General
Winfield Scott Hancock, east Cemetery Hill, sculptor, F. Ellwell; bronze
equestrian statue, General Henry W. Slocum, on Steven’s Knoll, near
Culp’s Hill, sculptor, E. C. Potter; bronze statue, General John F.
Reynolds, at entrance to National Cemetery, sculptor, J. Q. A. Ward;
bronze statue, General Alexander Stewart Webb, sculptor, J. Massey
Rhind, placed at the Bloody Angle where Pickett’s charge was halted and
beaten back; General Webb was the officer in command at this spot;
bronze statue, General Warren, on Little Round Top, sculptor, Gerhart.
Pennsylvania State Monument, double arch, 110 feet high, 80 feet square
at base, crowned with dome surmounted by a bronze Victory, eight bronze
statues at base of Ionic columns, Lincoln, sculptor, J. Otto Schweizer;
Curtin, sculptor, W. Clarke Nobel; Meade, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie;
Hancock, sculptor, Cryrus P. Dallin; Pleasanton, sculptor, J. Otto
Schweizer; Reynolds, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie; D. McM. Gregg, sculptor,
J. Otto Schweizer; Birney, sculptor, Lee O. Lawrie; bronze tablets
around base contain names of every soldier of Pennsylvania in Battle at
Gettysburg, 34,530. New York State Monument, tall granite shaft,
supporting bronze statue of liberty, with four bronze battle reliefs in
pedestal; bronze trophy, state shield and corps badges at base of
shaft, sculptor, Casper Buberl. Vermont State Monument, fluted shaft
surmounted by statue of General George J. Stannard. Irish Brigade
Monument, Celtic cross, with Irish hound at base, sculptor, Rudolph
O’Donovan.
In the National Cemetery are buried 3589 Union soldiers; it was
dedicated November, 1863, when President Lincoln delivered his immortal
address, ending, “This nation, under God, shall have a new birth of
freedom--and that government of the people, by the people, and for the
people, shall not perish from the earth.” Fiftieth anniversary of the
battle, fought July 1-2-3, 1863, was celebrated here in 1913 by reunion
of veterans.
The Russell Tavern, now a residence on old Shippensburg Road, three
miles north of Gettysburg, is where Washington stopped in 1794, after
quelling the Whiskey Rebellion. In Cashtown, the Civic League has formed
a recreation park, using the old tavern for a Library; west of this town
is the old Pittsburgh and Philadelphia Pike, used by both armies during
Civil War. Conewago Mission at Edgegrove was established in 1741 by two
Jesuit missionaries; present church, colonial, stone, was built in 1787;
enlarged, 1851; paintings over the altar and in the transepts were made
by Francis Stecker; Roman Catholic missions were established within a
radius of twenty miles from this mother house.
XXVII
CENTER COUNTY
Formed February 13, 1800; named for its position in center of state;
notable for the State College. Chief industry, agriculture; formerly
mining and manufacture of iron; limestone is extensively quarried; coal
is mined about Philipsburg and Snow Shoe. The state owns 21,000 acres of
forest reserve, through which several of the state highways pass;
“Fireline” cuts made by the state foresters may be seen.
For a wonderful mountain ride, take the State Road from Tyrone, Blair
County, to Bellefonte, following Bald Eagle Valley, and passing several
small towns named for women, where remains of iron furnaces may be seen;
near Snow Shoe Intersection, a state highway leads up the mountain, with
unsurpassed views, to Snow Shoe; follow this road to Philipsburg, then
to Bald Eagle Valley. Another beautiful ride is on the state road from
Mifflinburg, Union County, across the mountain, through Millheim and
Spring Mills to the Old Fort. From Spring Mills a short trip may be made
to Penn’s Cave; this is “Penn’s Grandest Cavern”; the trip through the
cave is 1400 feet in length, made in motor boats carrying torches or
acetylene lights, the water is a transparent greenish color, greatest
depth 35 or 40 feet.
A road from Lewistown, Mifflin County, to Lock Haven via Bellefonte,
crosses the Seven Mountains
[Illustration: CENTER COUNTY]
with wonderful views; at Potter’s Mills is an old furnace and mill. Near
the “Old Fort Tavern” is marker, on site of stockade built in 1768
against Indians, placed by Bellefonte Chapter of Daughters American
Revolution. Leaving Penn Valley, the road crosses Nittany Mountain, Bald
Eagle Mountains may be seen beyond, with crest of Alleghenies in the
background.
From Pleasant Gap a detour may be made to STATE COLLEGE; population
2405; Pennsylvania State College was founded by the United States
Government; in 1862 Congress passed the Land Grant Act, offering to each
state and territory in the Union a gift of public lands, the proceeds
from the sales to provide for the maintenance of a college to promote
the liberal and practical education of the industrial classes, in the
several pursuits and professions of life. The offer was accepted by the
Legislature of this state in 1863, and the institution, then known as
the Agricultural College of Pennsylvania, designated to receive the Land
Grant. There are thirty-four buildings on a campus of 1500 acres; “Old
Main,” built in 1857 as the Agricultural College of Pennsylvania, native
limestone, is fine specimen of early architecture; the chemistry and
liberal arts buildings are Classic style; mining and agricultural
groups, Italian Renaissance.
The college maintains departments of study in industrial and fine arts,
architecture, art history, and engineering; architectural exhibitions
show many specimens of students’ work, some of them prize winners in the
Beaux Arts contests; the ornamental gateway, a gift of the class of
1916, was designed by the students. College Museum contains, among the
portraits, those of the seven Presidents of the college, and Governor
Beaver, also other paintings, marbles and metal work. Art is being
emphasized in the summer school. Auditorium presented by Charles Schwab,
Esq., has in the lobby, heroic statue, “The Hewer,” by George Gray
Barnard. Opposite on the campus is the Carnegie Library; architects,
Seymour Davis and Paul A. Davis.
Near State College is a picturesque village, BOALSBURG, laid out with a
small formal center square, from which streets radiate toward the
distant mountains. Colonel Theodore Boal, architect, who raised and
equipped a machine gun company for the World War, has created a museum
for his warfare collections, curious old armor, dating back to the
Crusaders, and a large amount of World War relics, German airplanes,
helmets, gas masks, etc.; there is also a Napoleon Room; and he has
erected a chapel, old Spanish model, which houses rare wall hangings,
vestments, church furnishings, and manuscripts in Spanish, dating from
the time of Columbus; they were inherited by Mrs. Boal, a direct
descendant from Columbus. Colonel Boal also keeps up, on his property, a
reservation or captain’s camp, for the Twenty-eighth Division, the Iron
Division.
BELLEFONTE, county seat, population 3996, was founded, 1795, by James
Harris and Colonel James Dunlop, who gave the ground for the courthouse
and academy; and certain lots, to be sold, to provide for the erection
of said buildings. Name said to have been suggested by Talleyrand, who
visited James Harris at his home “Marlbrook,” now the Bellefonte Poor
House;
[Illustration: COURT HOUSE AND GOVERNOR CURTIN MEMORIAL, BELLEFONTE]
being asked by Mrs. Harris to suggest a name for the town he said,
“Bellefonte, for this beautiful spring”; the spring is computed to flow
14,600 gallons per minute, and scarcely varies, entire supply being
conveyed to the borough. It is a conservative and aristocratic old town,
with residences of Governors Curtin, Beaver, and Hastings, whose homes
may still be seen; and fine old colonial doorways; the library of Judge
Ellis L. Orvis is noted for its rare first editions, one of the best in
Pennsylvania.
Courthouse is in the Public Square, built, 1805, Greco-colonial, with
Ionic columns, architect, probably Ezra Ale, has been twice enlarged
without changing the front; entrance to the east addition harmonizes
with the main west front; architects, Newman & Harris, Philadelphia, for
enlargement in 1911. Contains portraits of past judges of the county. In
the diamond, in front of courthouse, is state memorial to Pennsylvania’s
War Governor and United States Ambassador to Russia, Andrew G. Curtin;
bronze, heroic, portrait statue on granite pedestal, sculptor, W. Clark
Noble; on either side are bronze panels giving names of Center County’s
soldiers in wars of the Republic. The Bellefonte Academy, founded in
1805, burned 1905, was rebuilt, classic, architect, Robert Cole of
Bellefonte.
[Illustration: BEAVER COUNTY]
XXVIII
BEAVER COUNTY
Formed March 12, 1800; named for one of our most industrious little
animals; was in the track of earliest of French and English explorers of
the Mississippi Valley, to which the Ohio River Valley forms an integral
part. It was the scene of heroic labors of Moravian and Jesuit
missionaries, who built their stations on the borders of the Beaver
River. The Indian villages were the homes of some of the most noted
warriors of the aboriginal tribes, and sites of important treaty
conferences between them and the colonial governments of Pennsylvania
and Virginia. Chief industries are coal and steel. Yards of the
Pennsylvania Railroad at Conway, said to be the largest in the world;
the famous glass factories of Rochester and Monaca, are at junction of
the Ohio and Beaver rivers. Four bridges are here, including that of the
Pittsburgh and Lake Erie Railroad, a massive structure of fine
engineering skill, 90 feet above the river.
BEAVER, county seat (Indian, Shingoes Town), population 4135, was laid
out in 1791, on a high level plateau overlooking the Ohio River, by the
Surveyor General of the state. Five streets, 100 feet wide, following
direction of river, were planned, with five of same width crossing at
right angles, and each square divided again by streets 25 feet in width;
eight squares were reserved for use of the town, one at each corner,
north, east, south and west, and four in the center, which, with a wide
strip fronting the river, constitute the parks; all beautifully laid
out, they have large trees, and are planted with ornamental shrubbery.
The present added territory, east and west, makes the town twice the
original size. Courthouse, brick with stone trimmings, is on one of the
center squares; the jail, a quaint old stone building, faces on opposite
square; in center stands the Soldiers’ and Sailors’ Monument. At foot of
Market Street is a tall flagstaff marking site of Fort McIntosh, built,
1778, by General McIntosh, on earlier site of a French town built in
1754.
BEAVER FALLS, population 12,802, oldest and largest manufacturing town,
consequent on the great water power of Beaver River and Falls, has
Geneva College and a fine Carnegie Library. The residence section is on
a bluff 200 feet high, with fine view. NEW BRIGHTON, population 9361,
connected with Beaver Falls by bridges, has the Merrick Art Galleries,
acquired by gift to the city, with collection of paintings of merit and
value, and liberal endowment for purpose of adding to the collection,
library, museum, and to employ teachers in the future. Armory is
headquarters of the famous Tenth Regiment. Near the town is a ravine,
through which flows Brady’s Run, scene of many thrilling events in life
of the famous Indian fighter, Captain Samuel Brady. Morado has a
beautiful park on the Beaver River. At Rock Point, on the
Connoquenessing Creek, is wild and tumultuous scenery.
LEGIONVILLE, General Anthony Wayne wintered his soldiers here in 1792;
the trenches and position of some of the redoubts are still
discernible; marked by flagstaff, erected by the Fort McIntosh Chapter,
Daughters of the American Revolution. Farther east is quaint old town of
ECONOMY, home of the Harmony Society, disciples of Doctor Rapp; thrifty,
industrious people of the past, almost effaced by the town of Ambridge,
of the American Bridge Company, who purchased a large tract of their
land.
Near Smith’s Ferry, on the north bank of the Ohio, is large group of
interesting Indian picture carvings, cut into the surface of the
Piedmont sandstone, exposed in the river at a three foot stage of water;
they are scattered over the surface of the rock ledge, for a space about
forty feet in width, and 700 feet in length, and represent a great
variety of the forms of men and animals, birds, fish, and reptiles,
including the beaver, bear, wolf, turtle, snake, and eagle, human
footprints and the tracks of various beasts; as well as inanimate
objects, scalphoop, bows, and arrows; there is also a picture of a bison
chasing a dog; another large collection of similar pictures, on the
Susquehanna River at Safe Harbor, Lancaster County, contains the same
forms of the wolf and the turtle, from which well-known tribes of the
Delaware Indians were named, which would seem to connect them with that
tribe; casts and photographs of these carvings may be seen at the
Carnegie Museum, Pittsburgh.
[Illustration: CRAWFORD COUNTY]
XXIX
CRAWFORD COUNTY
Formed March 20, 1800; named for Colonel William Crawford. First well in
the world drilled for petroleum, was completed here in 1859; valley of
Oil Creek, south of Titusville, once most productive of oil in United
States. Land peculiarly suited to grazing, stock raising, and general
farming. French Creek was followed by Washington, 1753, from Franklin,
Venango County, to Fort Le Breuf, Erie County. He returned, descending
it in canoe; on French Creek, north of Meadville, are Saegerstown and
Cambridge Springs, with famous health-giving waters. Conneaut Lake,
three and one-half miles by one mile, is largest lake in Pennsylvania,
covering about 1200 acres.
MEADVILLE, county seat, population 14,568, settled in 1788 by David
Mead; his house still stands on Randolph Street, with modern outer
walls; at roots of a maple tree, planted by him, is granite marker,
inscription, “This house, erected May, 1797, by General David Mead,
founder of Meadville; Ensign in the War of American Revolution;
Major-General, 14th and 15th Division, Pennsylvania Militia; rendered
signal service in the war of 1812, and an associate Judge at the time of
his death. Placed by the Colonel Crawford Chapter, D. A. R., 1902.” In
Diamond Park, center of city, five acres, set in huge granite boulder
found there, is bronze tablet, inscription, “In commemoration of
Colonel William Crawford, born in Virginia 1732, burned at the stake by
Delaware Indians near Sandusky, Ohio, June 11, 1782. Revolutionary
soldier, friend and companion of Washington, brave and distinguished
frontiersman of Western Pennsylvania; this county is named in his honor.
Erected by Colonel Crawford Chapter, D. A. R., 1912”; also Pioneer’s
Monument, erected May 12, 1888, to mark one hundredth anniversary of
Meadville; and the Soldiers’ Monument, erected, 1890. Parrott guns,
relics of the Civil War, are at the base; inscription, “Crawford
County’s tribute to her loyal sons, 1861-1865.”
Courthouse faces the park, Renaissance, architect, E. T. Roberts, built
in 1870. On a house west of the park is a tablet, inscription, “Site of
first Court House and Gaol, north of Pittsburgh, 1804-25; placed by
Colonel Crawford Chapter, D. A. R., 1909”; also facing the park are the
post office, built by the government, 1910, Georgian architecture, red
brick and white marble; and the Unitarian Church, built in 1835, red
brick, classic, Doric architecture. On the terrace, at Locust Street, is
a small stone tablet, marking an old Indian trail, along which
Washington passed to Fort Le Boeuf; The “Terrace,” an attractive
residence street, is the sloping ground following the old canal.
Meadville Free Library contains a complete file of the “Crawford Weekly
Messenger,” published by Thomas Atkinson at Meadville, first newspaper
northwest of the Allegheny Mountains; annual exhibitions of paintings by
American artists are held here; an excellent permanent collection is
being accumulated by the art association, among the artists represented
are Charles C. Curran, Charles Bittinger, and Charlotte B. Coman.
Allegheny College founded in 1815, co-ed, is well equipped as to
instructors, apparatus, and buildings, campus twenty acres, nearly one
million dollars endowment; Bentley Hall, the oldest building, erected in
1820, is of fine colonial architecture; Library, classic architecture,
contains autograph letters from Thomas Jefferson, James Madison, James
Monroe, John Wesley, Commissions to Timothy Alden, first President,
descended from Longfellow’s John Alden; portraits of all the Presidents
of the college, President Clark by Inman, also Hon. James Winthrop, and
of Rev. William Bentley of Salem, Massachusetts, who bequeathed here his
library, one of the rarest in the country.
The Pennsylvania College of Music, chartered, 1887, is complete in its
faculty and curriculum, for study in every department of music and
allied arts. Meadville Theological School, chartered 1846, contains a
fine library; in the chapel is a portrait, by John Neagle, Philadelphia,
painted in 1848, of Harm Jan Huidekoper, founder of the school; he was
the first representative of the Holland Land Company in Meadville in
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