A guide book of art, architecture, and historic interests in Pennsylvania
1860. Annual fall exhibitions of members’ work; also special
12011 words | Chapter 10
exhibitions.
PHILADELPHIA WATER-COLOR CLUB, Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts,
annual international exhibitions; also Traveling exhibitions of members’
work.
PLASTIC CLUB, women, 247 South Camac Street; organized, 1897. Annual and
special exhibitions; lectures, and sketch classes.
T-SQUARE CLUB, 204 South Quince Street, founded, 1881. Annual
architectural exhibition; drafting; decorative painting; modeling; and
architecture in coöperation with Society of Beaux-Arts Architects, New
York City.
The D’ASCENZO STUDIOS, for Stained Glass, 1604 Summer Street, founded
twenty years ago, include designing; painting; firing; and glazing; work
is begun and completed, in both modern and antique, with preference for
the antique school, for architectural fitness and conventionality; also
glass mosaic and mural decoration. D’Ascenzo’s art may be seen in many
important churches and buildings in this country; in the Chapel at
Valley Forge, and in Philadelphia may be mentioned St. Mark’s Protestant
Episcopal Church, Frankford; St. James’ Protestant Episcopal Church,
Twenty-second and Walnut Streets; St. Patrick’s Roman Catholic Church,
Twentieth and Locust Streets; Synagogue Rodeph Shalom, Philadelphia.
WILLIAM WILLET AND ANNIE LEE WILLET STUDIOS, FOR STAINED GLASS, 226
South Eleventh Street, formerly of Pittsburgh. While all the world is
deploring the loss of the magnificent old glass in the cathedrals of
Europe, here the art of fused glass has been raised to such perfection
that their great windows have all that the old work has, of depth, glow,
and shadow, under modern conditions of stability; among their notable
windows are, the Sanctuary Window, West Point Military Chapel, New York;
Proctor Hall, the Graduate School, Princeton, New Jersey, great west
window; many in the churches and public buildings of Pittsburgh, Chicago
and elsewhere; in and near Philadelphia, in Summit Presbyterian Church,
Carpenter and West View Streets, Germantown; St. Michael’s Sanctuary
window, High Street, Germantown; John Chambers Memorial Church; The
Buchanan Memorial, St. Nathaniel’s Church, Kensington; the Harrison
Memorial; Holy Trinity Church, Nineteenth and Walnut; the Leta Sullivan
in the Assumption, Strafford.
Notable private art collections in Philadelphia, that may sometimes be
seen by writing for permit, which for variety and value, have few peers
are:
[Illustration: THE TRAGIC MUSE
From the Edward Hornor Coates Memorial Collection
_Painted by Violet Oakley_ _Courtesy of the Pennsylvania Academy of the
Fine Arts_]
P. A. B. WIDENER’S, several hundred choice and rare paintings, mostly
masterpieces of great artists of the Renaissance, and modern.
The W. L. ELKINS; many fine examples of medieval and modern portraiture,
landscape and genre painting.
The JOHN MCFADDEN, best collection of solely eighteenth century English
paintings in this country.
The EDWARD T. STOTESBURY, masterpieces of the English School and
international contemporary art.
Should these collections accompany the WILSTACH, now in Memorial Hall,
to the Municipal Art Museum in Fairmount Park, now under construction,
it would begin its career with a wealth of paintings, more comprehensive
and valuable than any that ever inaugurated a similar institution, not
excepting the Louvre, Pitti, Dresden, National in London, and
Metropolitan, New York, which grew from small beginnings, thus placing
the highest products of art within equal and easy reach of all classes.
This Museum will constitute the central feature of a comprehensive plan
in progress, at the head of the Parkway, for a real art center, more
imposing in scale and impressive in its entire effect than any similar
art center in any American City. The PENNSYLVANIA ACADEMY OF THE FINE
ARTS has been granted a site facing the Fairmount Plaza, also the
PENNSYLVANIA MUSEUM AND SCHOOL OF INDUSTRIAL ART.
ARMY AND NAVY
THE FIRST CITY TROOP, Armory, Twenty-third Street, above Chestnut;
founded in 1778. An exclusive social organization. Oldest military
command in the United States in continuous active service; its
traditions of active service are as loyally preserved as its rights as
escort of the President, and other distinguished men. In the
Spanish-American War in 1898, “The Troop” was the first body of cavalry
landed at Porto Rico. The “Gentlemen of Philadelphia” met in
Independence Hall, November 17, 1774, and formed a company of cavalry
called, “The Light Horse of the City of Philadelphia”; they were
dismissed by Washington after the Revolution in 1778, and reorganized
immediately as the First City Troop; the Troop voted to give the
certificate of dismissal, signed by Washington, to their captain, Samuel
Morris; the paper is now in possession of the decendants of Elliston P.
Morris, of Germantown. FRANKFORD ARSENAL, Bridge and Tacony Streets;
local station, Bridesburg; open, free, daily, 7.45 A.M. to sunset.
Established, 1814; President Madison was at the opening exercises.
Lafayette stopped at the Arsenal in 1824. Here are complete small arms
cartridge factory equipment; artillery cartridge factory equipment; and
machine plant for the manufacture of inspecting instruments; sights for
cannon; range finders; and other instruments for fire control at the
fortifications, etc. PHILADELPHIA NAVY YARD, League Island, about 1000
acres; junction of Delaware and Schuylkill Rivers; deeded to the
National Government by the City of Philadelphia in 1868. Open to the
public daily between 9.00 A.M. and 4.00 P.M. Established about 1794 on
the Delaware River front, at Prime Street. A large number of the old
wooden ships of the Navy were built here, such as the ships of the line,
_Franklin_, _Pennsylvania_ and _North Carolina_; frigates, _United
States_, _Raritan_, and _Guerriere_; sloops of war, _Vandalia_,
_Germantown_, and _Dale_; screw steamers, _Princeton_, _Wabash_, and
_Lancaster_; side wheel steamers, _Mississippi_ and _Susquehanna_. At
present there are two dry docks; shops employ 2000 men; three large
barrack buildings for the use of marines stationed at the Yard
accommodate 1400 men. Admiral Benson, former Commandant, considers this
the best Navy Yard in the Government’s possession, being in the center
of coal and iron industries, within short haul, both by rail and water,
for all material required by a great navy yard; its nearness to great
private shipyards on the Delaware provides skilled mechanics in the art
of ship-building, and the fresh water feature, being unique, is of great
importance; barnacles accumulated in salt water drop off in fresh water,
simply by docking here for short periods. There is also a large Reserve
Basin called the Back Channel, where ships out of commission can be laid
up until wanted. The berthing facilities may be indefinitely extended by
constructing additional sea wall and piers. FORT MIFFLIN, below mouth of
the Schuylkill, has casement dungeons, and earthen banks of early
warfare, and was prominent in the Revolutionary War; designed and built
by Major Louis de Tousard in 1798. Now, in the magazines, ammunition
from government battleships is stored, before they enter the Navy Yard;
the magazines are surrounded by poles, on each pole is a lightning rod.
UNITED STATES NAVAL ASYLUM, Gray’s Ferry Avenue below Bainbridge Street,
classic, marble; has Museum of Uniforms.
HISTORIC BURIAL GROUNDS
The earliest were connected with churches; some date almost from the
beginning of the city.
=Baptist.= BLOCKLEY CEMETERY, Meeting-House Lane, between Lancaster Avenue
and Haverford Street; ground given, 1804. Church is at Fifty-third
Street and Wyalusing Avenue. DUNKER, Germantown, on Germantown Avenue
above Sharpnack Street; oldest meeting-house of the German Baptists, or
Dunkers, in America; erected, 1770. Burial ground opened, 1793; in it
lie Alexander Mack, founder of the sect, and Harriet Livermore, the
“Pilgrim Stranger” of Whittier’s “Snow Bound.” MENNONITE, Germantown
Avenue above Herman Street; church was built, 1770; many early
Germantown settlers are buried in the yard. PENNYPACK, or LOWER DUBLIN,
Krewston Road near Pennypack Creek, one mile from Bustleton; here is
oldest Baptist church edifice in Pennsylvania, built about 1707; in the
old time graveyard are many curious moss covered tombstones.
=Friends.= When the graves are marked the stones are always small and
inconspicuous. FAIRHILL MEETING, Germantown Avenue and Cambria Street;
ground granted by William Penn; a large and beautiful old cemetery and
near “Fairhill,” the great Norris estate. THE MEETING HOUSE, Fourth and
Arch Streets, was built in 1804, but the ground was used for burials
many years before; it is one of the oldest cemeteries in Philadelphia.
Some of the most prominent citizens of very early days lie here with
nothing to mark their resting-place; it is computed that twenty thousand
persons are interred here.
=Jewish.= MIKVEH ISRAEL, on Spruce Street, near Ninth; ground was granted
to Nathan Levy by John Penn in 1738; here lies the beautiful Rebecca
Gratz, original of Rebecca in Scott’s “Ivanhoe.” In August, 1913, the
little burial ground was opened for the interment of her grandniece, the
first burial for thirty years. MOUNT SINAI, Frankford Avenue, near
Bridge Street, has imposing entrance, erected, 1854.
=Lutheran.= ST. MICHAEL’S, Germantown Avenue and Phil-Ellena Street, joins
the church built about 1730; a notable grave, with flat marble stone
resting on four columns, is that of Christopher Ludwig, “baker general”
to the American army during the Revolution.
=Methodist.= ST. PAUL’S, Catharine Street near Sixth. Church is now used
as an Italian mission; has a small graveyard.
=Presbyterian.= OF FIRST AND THIRD CHURCHES, Southwest corner of Fourth
and Pine Streets, First Church, Seventh and Locust Streets, has the
eastern section. When the First Church abandoned its old Market Street
site for the present locality, the bodies were moved whenever possible,
and many of the old headstones were inserted in the south wall of the
new graveyard. The Third Church, called “Old Pine,” divides the grounds,
using the west section; both are most interesting, with many people of
note interred, including David Rittenhouse; William Hurry, who is said
to have rung the Liberty Bell when proclaiming independence; Dr. William
Shippen, Director General of Hospitals during the war for Independence;
many Revolutionary soldiers; and Captain Charles Ross of the First City
Troop.
=Protestant Episcopal.= ALL SAINTS, Bristol Turnpike, Torresdale.
Established 1772-73, when the first church edifice was built. CHRIST
CHURCH has two burialgrounds, one attached to the church on Second
Street, North of Market, dating from the earliest days of the church,
the other southeast corner of Fifth and Arch Streets, where first
interment was made in 1730; graves of Benjamin Franklin and Deborah, his
wife, are in the northwest corner; may be seen from Arch Street through
an iron railing set in the brick wall; in these graveyards are buried
many distinguished Americans; among them Peyton Randolph, first
President of the Continental Congress; Commodores Truxton, Biddle,
Bainbridge, and Dale; Robert Morris; several signers of the Declaration
of Independence; Dr. Benjamin Rush, Dr. Philip Syng Physick, Bishop
White, and Dr. William Augustus Muhlenberg. GLORIA DEI (Old Swedes’),
Front and Swanson Streets, south of Christian; church built, 1700, being
the oldest church building in Philadelphia; a most interesting graveyard
surrounds it; the celebrated ornithologist, Alexander Wilson, is buried
here. ST. JAMES, KINGSESSING, Sixty-eighth Street and Paschall Avenue;
church erected, 1762; General Josiah Harmer, of the Revolution, is
buried in the graveyard. ST. JAMES THE LESS, Hunting Park Avenue and
Clearfield Street; this beautiful little Gothic church, brownstone,
built 1847, has a number of fine monuments in the burial ground; John
Wanamaker is buried here. ST. LUKE’S, Germantown Avenue and Coulter
Street, church dates from 1818; the famous Philadelphia annalist, John
Fanning Watson, is interred in the churchyard. ST. PETER’S, southwest
corner of Third and Pine Streets; in the graveyard lies the body of
Commodore Stephen Decatur, the grave surmounted by an Ionic column
supporting an American eagle; other notable names here are Chew,
Cadwalader, Mifflin, Binney, Biddle, Peale, Waln, Meade, McCall, Duché,
Norris, Kuhn, Montgomery. TRINITY, Oxford, near Fox Chase, east of old
Second Street Pike; present church dates from 1711; began as a log
meeting house, 1698; tombstones date as early as 1708; the inscriptions
on some are quaint and original.
=Roman Catholic.= HOLY TRINITY, northwest corner of Sixth and Spruce
Streets, dates from 1789; on the old tombstones may be deciphered names
of many of the early German and French inhabitants of Philadelphia.
Stephen Girard was buried here until 1851, later his body was removed to
Girard College. MOST HOLY REDEEMER, Richmond Street, opposite Hedley
Street, Bridesburg; many of the Redemptorist Fathers are buried here.
OTHER NOTABLE BURIAL GROUNDS
NORTH CEDAR HILL, Frankford Avenue corner of Foust Street, incorporated,
1857; a soldiers’ monument to the Civil War soldiers from Frankford is
in the older part. CRISPIN, Holmesburg; contains grave of Thomas Holme,
who laid out the city of Philadelphia; plot is under care of the Crispin
Association, formed of descendants of Holme. GLENWOOD, Ridge Avenue and
Twenty-seventh Street, opened, 1850, has notable monument of the Scott
Legion Association, formed among the surviving soldiers of the Mexican
War. GREENWOOD, Asylum Pike and Arrott Street, Frankford; established,
1869, by the benevolent order of the Knights of Pythias, as a burial
place for members and their families; occupies the “Mount Airy” estate,
once residence of Commodore Stephen Decatur. HOOD, or “THE LOWER BURIAL
GROUND,” on Germantown Avenue at Logan Street, opened in 1693, having
been presented to the borough of Germantown by Jan Streepers. Many early
settlers of Germantown lie here; among them Frederic William Post, the
Moravian missionary to the Indians, and Condy Raguet, founder of the
Saving Fund in Philadelphia; in 1847, William Hood built the front
entrance, of Pennsylvania marble, the wall and railing. IVY HILL, East
Mount Airy Avenue, above Stenton Avenue, chartered, 1867; about 80
acres; the Second Baptist Church has removed to Ivy Hill about 300
bodies from its old burial place on New Market Street; an imposing
monument is here in memory of David Lyle, Chief Engineer of the
Volunteer Fire Department from 1859-67. NORTH LAUREL HILL, East bank of
Schuylkill River and Ridge Avenue, organized, 1835; formerly “Laurel,”
country seat of Joseph Sims. “Fairy Hill,” seat of Pepper family, now
CENTRAL LAUREL HILL, and “Harleigh,” William Rawle’s place, now SOUTH
LAUREL HILL; historic dead and artistic monuments fill these cemeteries;
Commodores Murray and Hull, General George Gordon Meade, and Mrs.
Cornelius Stevenson, “Peggy Shippen” of the _Ledger_, are among those
who lie here; the Lea Memorial, sculptor A. Sterling Calder, is very
beautiful, the chapel is early English. Just across the Schuylkill
River, on Belmont Avenue, at Pencoyd Station, is WEST LAUREL HILL,
opened in 1869. General Herman Haupt is among those buried here.
MONUMENT, Broad Street and Montgomery Avenue, was laid out by Dr. John
A. Elkinton in 1836; an obelisk monument, on a pedestal, erected, 1859,
in honor of Washington and Lafayette, was designed by John Sartain,
artist, who is buried near base of shaft. MOUNT MORIAH, Sixty-second
Street and Kingsessing Avenue, opened, 1855; has grave of Betsy Ross,
over which a flag floats perpetually. MOUNT PEACE, Lehigh Avenue and
Thirty-first Street, was originally country seat of the Ralston family,
known as Mount Peace estate. MOUNT VERNON, Ridge and Lehigh Avenues,
opposite Laurel Hill, chartered, 1856; the Gardel monument was long
considered handsomest in the country. NATIONAL CEMETERY, Haines Street
and Limekiln Pike, land acquired by the United States Government in
1885, it is well wooded, and the grounds are laid out with flowering
plants; about 2700 Union soldiers are buried here; their graves marked
by long rows of small granite slabs, bearing their names and the States
from which they came. Soldiers of three wars lie here; a granite
monument, erected by the United States, marks the burial place of 184
Confederate soldiers and sailors. PALMER, at Palmer, Belgrade, and
Memphis Streets, owes its origin to Anthony Palmer; in 1730, he
purchased a large tract of land in “The Northern Liberties,” on which he
laid out a town and named it Kensington; his daughter carried out his
wishes, and bequeathed ground for a burial place for those living in
Kensington. RONALDSON’S, Tenth and Fitzwater Streets, now neglected,
was founded by James Ronaldson in 1826 as a burial place in which
persons of moderate means could find a grave without any of the
restrictions which attended interments in the churchyards; he gave the
ground, almost a city square, decorated it with trees and shrubbery; so
beautifully was it kept that it was considered “The model burial place
of the City,” until the opening of Laurel Hill. UPPER BURIAL GROUND, or
AX’S, Germantown Avenue near Washington Lane. John Frederick Ax was
caretaker from 1724-56; many early settlers are buried here, the oldest
known grave being that of Cornelius Tyson, who died in 1716; there are
also graves of some American soldiers and officers, killed in the Battle
of Germantown; over them, John Fanning Watson placed a marble headstone.
WOODLANDS, Thirty-ninth Street and Woodland Avenue, was in early times
the country seat of William Hamilton, known as “The Woodlands”; acquired
by Woodlands Cemetery Company in 1840. Many distinguished men and women
are buried here, among them Commodore Thomas Stewart, who commanded the
_Constitution_ in 1812; General John Stewart, Major Generals D. B.
Birney and Abercrombie of the Civil War; Rembrandt Peale; William K.
Hewitt and P. F. Rothermel, Artists; John Davenport, Actor; Colonel
Thomas A. Scott and J. Edgar Thomson; Frank and Louise Stockton; Dr. S.
Weir Mitchell and Anthony J. Drexel.
HISTORIC CHURCHES IN PHILADELPHIA
Among the eight hundred and five churches in Philadelphia, are:
The Philadelphia BAPTIST, whose Association celebrated its two
hundredth and tenth anniversary in 1917. FIRST CHURCH, Seventeenth
Street below Chestnut, open daily, is a consistent example of Byzantine
architecture with American modifications; stone; architect, Edgar V.
Seeler. Windows made by Heinecke & Bowen are copies of the Byzantine
leaded glass; lights and shadows in drapery are all done with leaded
strips of glass, not painted. TEMPLE, Broad and Berks Streets, famous on
account of its pastor, Rev. Russell H. Conwell, was dedicated, 1901; at
that time it was the largest church edifice in the United States,
excepting the Mormon Temple at Salt Lake City; auditorium seats 3135
people: Romanesque, with two low towers on the front, surmounted by
large copper domes, which give an Oriental touch; architect, Thomas
Lonsdale. Fine rose window in front, said to have been made by John
LaFarge; other windows are by J. & R. Lamb and R. S. Groves: the
Hope-Jones organ, built by the Rudolph Wurlitzer Company, is one of the
largest in this country; it has all the orchestral accompaniments.
TABERNACLE, Chestnut and Fortieth Streets, Gothic, stone, has a window
by William Willet. There are about one hundred Baptist churches in
Philadelphia.
=Christian Science.= FIRST CHURCH OF CHRIST SCIENTIST, Walnut Street near
Fortieth; Spanish architecture.
=Congregational.= CENTRAL, Eighteenth and Green Streets, Gothic, stone,
built in 1872; architect, D. Supplee; organized in 1864; first services
were held in old Concert Hall, 1217 Chestnut Street, afterwards used as
first Free Library Building; sermon “Recognition,” was preached by Rev.
Henry Ward Beecher; other sermons of early days, by Richard S. Storrs,
D.D. About nine or ten churches of this denomination are in
Philadelphia.
=Friends’ or Quaker Meeting-Houses.=
“What dignity breathes from the lofty space
And amplitude of hospitality
In these old-fashioned Quaker shrines!
Most friendly seems the long, high, sturdy roof,
Most friendly the all-welcoming old walls
Seen through the sheltering trees.
O mighty oaks and noble sycamores,
With trunks moss-silvered and with lichened limb,
Breathe soft to me the storied memories
And treasured records of the long rich years
That blessed the meeting-houses.”
(From “Old Meeting-Houses,”
by John Russell Hayes.)
For more than one hundred years there has been no change in the general
style of architecture; before that time, the earliest meeting-house in
Philadelphia, at Second and Market Streets, was built with a central
lantern or cupola; probably copied from a meeting-house of similar form
in Burlington, New Jersey, built, 1682; where the yearly meeting for New
Jersey and Pennsylvania was first held: later it met alternately at
Philadelphia and Burlington, but since 1750 in Philadelphia, Fourth and
Arch Streets. One of the most interesting old meeting-houses, built in
1696, is at MERION, near Narberth Station, Pennsylvania Railroad, in
which William Penn preached; another, that he attended, is the old
HAVERFORD, built in the early eighteenth century, near Cobb’s Creek,
opposite St. Dennis Roman Catholic Church. RADNOR and PLYMOUTH are also
interesting old houses; all these last named are now owned by the
HICKSITE BRANCH of Quakers, who also own over seventy other
meeting-houses throughout the state. Among those owned by the ORTHODOX
BRANCH within Philadelphia are the Fourth and Arch Streets, not only the
most important, but of great charm architecturally; it is very large and
stands on ground originally given by William Penn to George Fox, and by
the latter to Friends in America; and may be taken as typical of the
later and best Quaker architecture; built in 1804, following the style
of the pre-Revolutionary days of the houses just named, but adapted in
material and size to the increased numbers worshiping within; it is of
brick, set in ample grounds, with abundant shade; the ground about it,
and much also covered now by the building and by Arch Street, is a very
old burial ground, filled over several times. James Logan is buried
under the pavement of Arch Street. TWELFTH STREET MEETING-HOUSE, brick,
built in 1812, is second in importance, and one of the most beautiful
bits in old Philadelphia. The oak timbers in its roof are said to have
come from the “Great Meeting-House,” which succeeded that with the
cupola at Second and Market Streets; oak timbers are also exposed with
good effect in the upper room of the Arch Street house; the two houses
are of the same general type and severely plain, but form, together with
that at Sixth and Noble Streets, a most dignified trio of places for
worship; remarkable for true proportion and dignity of outline, they are
typical of the wealth and solidity of the Friends at their most
flourishing period. THE MEETING HOUSE, Sixth and Noble Streets, known
as “North Meeting,” once accommodating a large congregation, has been
reduced in members by removals; the Yearly Meeting has therefore taken
over its use as an adjunct to the settlement work, carried on by Friends
at “Noble House.”
=Jewish.= Rosh Hashana, or the Jewish New Year’s Day, is the oldest
festival celebrated in the civilized world, 1917 will usher in the year
5678; it commences the great series of fall holidays: ten days later is
“Yom Kippur,” the Day of Atonement, most sacred of the year, when the
Jews fast from sunset to sunset and attend the synagogues, and a week
later “Succoth,” corresponding to our Thanksgiving Day, which lasts a
week. The principal synagogues are ADATH-JESHURUN, Broad Street above
Diamond, Egyptian; limestone and brick; architects, Churchman, Thomas &
Molitar, has leaded glass windows by Nicolo D’Ascenzo. KENESETH ISRAEL,
Broad Street above Columbia Avenue, Italian Renaissance, brick with
limestone trimmings; architect, Hickman. MIKVEH ISRAEL, Broad and York
Streets, organized, 1747; moved from Seventh Street near Arch; French
Renaissance, limestone; architects, Pitcher & Tachau. RODEPH SHALOM,
southeast corner of Broad and Mt. Vernon Streets, Moorish, sandstone;
built, 1869; architects, Furness & Evans; has leaded glass windows by
Nicolo D’Ascenzo.
=Lutheran.= The THEOLOGICAL SEMINARY of Philadelphia, 7301 Germantown
Avenue, was founded in 1864; removed to present location, 1889; site,
residence of Chief Justice Allen; afterwards a military school of some
distinction, “Mount Airy College.” The administration building was
erected by James Gowen for a residence in 1848, and adapted to the wants
of the Seminary; on the grounds are twelve buildings, including Krauth
Memorial Library, perpendicular Gothic, stone, built, 1908; contains
portraits; the Refectory, once residence of the Miller family, built,
1792, colonial; and the Ashmead-Schaeffer Memorial Chapel, Gothic,
stone. ST. MICHAEL’S, Germantown Avenue and Phil-Ellena Street, first
church, built, 1730; British soldiers took refuge in the church and
demolished the organ during the Battle of Germantown; corner-stone of
present church laid, 1896. OLD ST. JOHNS, Race Street between Fifth and
Sixth, first English Lutheran Church in America, colonial, brick;
congregation organized in 1806, largely through efforts of General Peter
Muhlenberg; contains a fine oil portrait by John Neagle, painted in
1853, of Dr. Philip F. Mayer, first pastor 1806-58; and woodcarvings in
front of the gallery by William Rush. ZION (German), Franklin Street
above Race, Romanesque, brownstone, built, 1870, moved from southeast
corner of Fourth and Cherry, founded 1766; a memorial service was held
here for Washington in 1799, by General Charles Lee. THE MARY J. DREXEL
HOME AND PHILADELPHIA MOTHERHOUSE OF DEACONESSES, Twenty-first Street
and South College Avenue, modified Gothic with numerous towers, brick
trimmed with sandstone, built, 1888; provides a training school for
Deaconesses of the Lutheran Church; home for the aged and a children’s
hospital; a Gothic chapel on the second floor, has altar cloths from
Neuendettelsau, Bavaria; and stained glass by Meyer, Munich; portraits
of the Lankenau and Drexel families are here, and an Italian marble
bust of Mr. Lankenau by Moses Ezekiel of Rome.
=Methodist.= SAINT GEORGE’S, 229 North Fourth Street, oldest Methodist
church in the world, used continuously for worship; dedicated, 1769;
Bishop Francis Asbury preached his first sermon in America here; three
memorial tablets mark the front: to John Dickens, founder of the
Methodist Book Concern, buried rear of the church, in 1798; to Ezekiel
Cooper, his successor, buried in front, and one commemorating the first
Methodist Conference in America, held in this church July 14, 1773.
CALVARY, Forty-eighth Street and Baltimore Avenue, Gothic, stone, has
mural painting, “Sermon on the Mount,” by H. Hanley Parker, and two
Tiffany windows. Other Methodist Episcopal churches with good
architecture are, ARCH STREET, Broad and Arch Streets, Gothic, white
marble, and GRACE, Broad and Master Streets, Renaissance.
=Presbyterian.= FIRST CHURCH, Seventh and Locust Streets, facing
Washington Square; oldest Presbyterian Church in Philadelphia, founded,
1699; present building erected, 1820, classic, brick, rough cast; with
Ionic porch; architect, Theophilus P. Chandler: contains Paxton memorial
window by Frederick Wilson, interesting old tablets, and a copy of
Calvin’s “Institutes.” SECOND CHURCH, Twenty-first and Walnut Streets,
French Gothic, with early English detail; erected, 1872; architect,
Henry Sims; Richmond granite is used in the base, the walls are of
Trenton stone, Cleveland sandstone for tracery of windows and moulding
of doors, with red sandstone, blue sandstone, and green serpentine for
special parts, in contrasts of color and decorative effects: interior is
faced with buff-colored brick imported from Raubon, Wales: the richly
ornamented pulpit is of Caen stone. Windows, a double one, by John
LaFarge; seven representing old Testament subjects, by Tiffany; and five
apse windows from England. SCOTTS, Broad Street below Morris, founded,
1766: third oldest organization in the Philadelphia Presbytery; is still
under its original charter; original church was at Fourth and Bainbridge
Streets, later on at Spruce Street above Third; Louis Philippe lived in
the parsonage during his residence in Philadelphia in 1796; John Purdon,
father of Purdon’s Digest, was its first elder; President John Adams
attended the church. OLD PINE STREET CHURCH, Fourth and Pine Streets,
classic, brick, rough-cast, with Corinthian porch; erected, 1857, one of
the walls being that of the original church built in 1768; the first
pastor, George Duffield, was chaplain of all the Pennsylvania militia,
and also served as chaplain of the First Continental Congress after
Jacob Duché; he was with Washington during the retreat through New
Jersey; was in the battles of Princeton and Trenton, and the British
offered a price of 50 pounds sterling for his head; he is buried under
the central aisle of the lecture room, and his portrait is in
Independence Hall: John Adams, when President, was a communicant here;
when the British occupied the city, they used this church as a hospital;
pews and other woodwork were burned as fuel, and later the church was
used by the dragoons to stable their horses. HOLLAND MEMORIAL, Broad and
Federal Streets, Romanesque; buff Massillon stone, with red sandstone
trimmings, from the Ballaclunyle quarries of Scotland; architect, David
S. Grendell; windows by Tiffany, in the south arcade, are from originals
by Frederick Wilson; other windows are by Alfred Godwin and Maitland &
Armstrong; there are four large rose windows, in one, the patriarch
Joshua stands in the center, clad in full armor; color scheme is based
upon the rose window of Saint Chapelle, Paris; makers, William and Annie
Lee Willet: under each window is a group of five arcade windows, some of
them copies from originals of Sir Edwin Burne-Jones, for windows in
Brighton and Salisbury Cathedrals. TABERNACLE, Thirty-seventh and
Chestnut Streets, is one of the finest Gothic church edifices in
Philadelphia, in decorative English style, with tower 130 feet high,
erected, 1886; granite, with Indiana limestone for tracery of windows
and doors; no wood being used in its construction, it thus resembles the
cathedrals of the old world; chapel is connected with the manse by a
cloistered porch. WEST ARCH STREET, Eighteenth and Arch Streets, Roman
classic, with dome 170 feet above the ground, stone, plastered; has fine
Corinthian porch. MARKET SQUARE, Germantown, founded, 1738: President
Washington worshiped here, while living opposite in the old Morris
house, during the yellow fever epidemic in Philadelphia in 1793; during
the battle of Germantown, a battalion of Virginians, prisoners of the
English, were lodged in this church; the old bell, cast, 1725, which was
in the shingle roof steeple of the old church, is still intact, and
preserved as a relic; also the “Trumpet angels in their gold array,”
part of the original organ from Holland: present building, French
Gothic, stone, was erected in 1886.
The WITHERSPOON BUILDING, Walnut Street below Broad, has sculpture by A.
Stirling Calder and Samuel Murray.
=Protestant Episcopal.= ST. ALBAN’S, Olney, consecrated, 1915; decorated
French Gothic; buttresses run up to above the cornice line, ending in
gables with crockets and finials; there is a belfry tower and porch;
interior lines are very beautiful; the high arches and lofty piers give
an impression of great dignity and simplicity, well adapted for
rendering the services, with all the accompaniment of advanced
churchmanship; architect, George T. Pearson. CHRIST CHURCH, Second
Street north of Market; first Protestant Episcopal Church in the
province; hours of service, September to July, Sundays 10.00 A.M., 11.00
A.M., 3.30 P.M., open daily 9.00 A.M. to 3.00 P.M.; founded in 1695,
under a provision in the original charter of King Charles II to William
Penn. John Penn, last male member of this line, is buried near the steps
of the pulpit. Present building, Georgian, erected 1747; Dr. John
Kearsley, Building Director; the old roof, its wooden balustrade with
carved spindles, and the steeple are ever of interest to architects and
antiquarians.
Here the colonial governors had their state pew, marked by coat of arms,
bearing the monogram of William and Mary; the parish was subsidized by
King William III, William of Orange; Communion silver presented in 1709
by Queen Anne; baptismal font dates from 1695, and was used for the
baptism of Bishop White in infancy. The chime of bells pealed forth the
Declaration of Independence, in response to the Liberty Bell, July 8,
1776; they were made in England, and came over in the same ship with the
Liberty Bell, were taken to Allentown with the Liberty Bell, and
subsequently rehung; are referred to by Longfellow in “Evangeline.”
George and Martha Washington regularly occupied pew 58 from 1790-97; it
was also the official pew of John Adams while President, and was used by
Lafayette in 1824; Franklin had pew 70, still used by his descendants;
Robert Morris’ pew was 52; Francis Hopkinson’s, 65. General Charles Lee,
of the Continental Army, is interred beside the southwest door, and near
by is General Hugh Mercer; Rt. Rev. William White, D.D., first Bishop of
Pennsylvania and long Presiding Bishop of the United States, is interred
before the chancel rail, and his Episcopal chair is beside the altar.
The church was organized; its constitution framed; and the amended
Prayer Book adopted in this church, in 1785; Bishop White and Provost
William Smith, D.D., were the Committee for revising and altering the
liturgy of the English Prayer Book, for use in America. Rev. Jacob Duché
was rector for many years. Windows illustrate the history of the
Christian Church; made by Heaton, Butler and Bains. ST. CLEMENT’S,
Twentieth and Cherry Streets, Norman Gothic, brownstone, built, 1857;
architect, John Notman; new roof of nave, apse, and high altar; choir
and lady chapel; architect, Horace Wells Sellers; the sanctuary is
beautifully designed, with effect heightened by a magnificent reredos;
artist, Frederick Wilson of Briarcliff, New York, leaded glass of apse,
and lady chapel, by Alfred Godwin,
[Illustration: BISHOP WILLIAM WHITE
_Painted by Gilbert Stuart_ _Courtesy of the Pennsylvania Academy of the
Fine Arts_]
Philadelphia. ST. ELIZABETH’S, corner of Sixteenth and Mifflin Streets,
early Italian, with high Campanile; medieval exterior and interior give
an exact idea of old Italian churches; brick; architects, Bailey and
Bassett; the choir is raised eight steps from the nave, giving view of
the crypt, and dignified elevation of the high altar; over the altar is
a copy of Correggio’s “Marriage of St. Catharine”; fine jeweled door of
the Pyx on the altar; Lady chapel has an altar of richly carved and
gilded wood, finished with a high reredos, copy of an original in Santo
Spirito, Florence; paintings set in are copies of works by Fra Filipo
Lippi. CHURCH OF THE EVANGELIST, now part of Graphic Sketch Club,
Catharine Street above Seventh, brick, is a gem of medievalism; Italian
Basilican style; red brick, relieved by stone trimmings; pillars of
portico rest on backs of lions; architects, Furness & Evans; frescoes by
Nicolo d’Ascenzo and by Robert Henri; original compositions and
adaptations of great paintings in Italy; font, late English Gothic, with
a richly carved stone; above it is the Strasbourg window, containing a
figure of the prophet, Jonas; this piece of glass, before the
Franco-Prussian War, was in the Cathedral of Strasbourg, and was taken
from one of the windows after the Germans had directed their fire on the
church and smashed the glass: paving of the Chapel of the Holy Sepulchre
is of Mercer tiles; Rood screen of polished marble, is modeled after
that at St. Marco, Venice; Altar rail modeled after that in a chapel at
Monreale, Sicily; the reredos, of the high altar, is a copy of a famous
altar-piece by Carlo Crivelli; original now in the National Gallery,
London. GLORIA DEI (Old Swedes’), on land given by Swan Swanson, corner
of Front and Swanson Streets, near Christian Street; formerly Wecacoa
(Indian name for pleasant place); was dedicated in 1700. Georgian
architecture, with steep pitched roof; brick work of walls, Flemish
bond, headers coated with vitreous, blue black glaze, doubtless the arch
bricks in the kiln; great square windows. Erected by the Swedish
Lutherans; after the Revolution, care of the Swedish churches was
committed to the American Church, and became part of the Diocese of
Pennsylvania. This congregation first worshiped in a block house, used
also as a fortress from 1677; the font used then is still in the present
church. HOLY TRINITY, Nineteenth and Walnut Streets; Norman Romanesque;
architect, John Notman; has fine memorial windows. ST. JAMES,
Twenty-second and Walnut Streets, founded, 1807; present building,
English decorated Gothic with sculptured band around the tower, from
which rises the graceful memorial spire; Ohio green sandstone and
granite, built, 1870; architect, G. W. Hewitt: pulpit; altar; reredos of
fine perpendicular work in Caen stone, rich in ornamentation and
sculpture, which also extends around the chancel, with two marble
pilasters having delicately carved capitals; all designed by Cram,
Goodhue and Ferguson; mosaics of the twelve apostles, in the walls of
the nave, suggest those of the Popes in the Church of St. Paul, outside
the walls, in Rome; leaded glass by Nicolo d’Ascenzo; font has a
bas-relief in white marble, angel scattering flowers, made in Florence,
Italy. ST. JAMES THE LESS, near main entrance to Laurel Hill Cemetery;
thirteenth century Gothic; brownstone; once said to be the choicest
specimen of church architecture in the United States. ST. JOHN
CHRYSOSTOM, corner Twenty-eighth Street and Susquehanna Avenue, almost
an exact copy of St. Stephen’s Church, London, designed by Sir
Christopher Wren; Renaissance, granite; architects, Bailey & Bassett;
adapted to a square lot, the interior shows form of Greek cross, with
inner octagon; rosettes and decorations of the dome are graceful and
beautiful; columns, placed on rather high pedestals, are Vermont marble,
with very beautiful veining, surmounted by Corinthian capitals: the
church is almost entirely white, with no stained glass, and gives an
impression of complete harmony. ST. MARK’S, Locust Street above
Sixteenth, built, 1849; fine specimen of fourteenth century, decorated
Gothic, brownstone; plans furnished by the Ecclesiological Society of
Cambridge, England; modified by John Notman; altar and reredos are
richly carved stone; also the pulpit and choir screen; notable features
are the rood beam, with cross and figures; carved sanctuary door; choir
and clergy stalls; the altar at head of north aisle is alabaster. Lady
chapel, erected, 1900, contains a silver altar of elaborate
magnificence, probably finest in the world, of the same style as the one
at Florence, Italy, by Pallajnoli, but richer, containing twelve scenes
from the life of the Virgin, and studded with precious stones, some four
hundred emeralds, sapphires, and opals, a monumental work, which will
remain a very splendid presentation of twentieth century English
ecclesiastical art; altar rail is silver and bronze; stained glass
windows in the church are notable; the sacred vessels and vestments
surpass any in the Anglican Communion, in their extraordinary richness;
silver processional cross is supposed to be that of the Palermo
Cathedral, in 1520; among old vestments are the coronation robes of
Louis XV from Rheims Cathedral, of light blue velvet, heavily
embroidered with twenty-two karat gold bullion. The first curate was the
Rev. Morgan Dix, ordained priest in this church, who became the famous
rector of Trinity Church, New York. ST. MARY’S, 3916 Locust Street, on
ground given by William Hamilton, of Woodlands; first Protestant
Episcopal Church in West Philadelphia, organized, 1820; frame church
erected, 1824; Bishop White laid the corner-stone; present building,
Gothic, consecrated, 1890. Memorial Gothic altar, retable, and reredos
are from famous studios in Rome, Italy, said to be the finest example of
ecclesiastical mosaic work in this country: windows are from London,
Paris, Munich, and Philadelphia. Rev. Thomas C. Yarnall celebrated his
fiftieth anniversary as rector of St. Mary’s in 1894. ST. PAUL’S, east
side of Third Street, below Walnut; classic; erected, 1761; third
Protestant Episcopal Church in Philadelphia and largest in the province;
now headquarters of the City Mission. The General Convention met here in
1814, when Bishop Moore of Virginia was consecrated; Bishop Hobart
preached the sermon. St. Paul’s Club, 411 Spruce Street, makes a
specialty of giving aid to the down and out drunkard, sobering him up,
fitting him for a job, and getting him one; in the five years of its
existence to 1917, it has registered 45,000 transient visitors and
temporary guests on its books. ST. PETER’S, corner of Third and Pine
Streets, second church erected in Philadelphia, fine example of Georgian
architecture, in beauty of line; brick; built, 1761; tower and spire,
218 feet high, were added, 1842; stone finials of gateposts were cut in
England; present wall erected in 1784, after the old wooden fence had
been taken for fuel by the British. Interior still retains the
high-backed box pews, President Washington’s among them, pew 41; the
pulpit, surmounting the clerk’s desk, soars upward at the far end,
opposite the altar; Provost William Smith preached the consecration
sermon; very beautiful stained glass by Myeres, London; remarkable for
richness of color and design; many interesting relics in the church’s
history are in the sacristy. CHURCH OF THE SAVIOUR, Thirty-eighth Street
above Chestnut, architect, C. M. Burns, has a splendidly impressive
chancel; decoration by Edwin Howland Blashfield and furnishings are
memorial to Anthony J. Drexel. Memorial window by William and Annie Lee
Willet, “Christ and Nicodemus,” has strong decorative quality and
richness of color. SOUTH MEMORIAL, CHURCH OF THE ADVOCATE, Eighteenth
and Diamond Streets, French Gothic, suggested by Amiens Cathedral;
built, 1897; stone; architect, Charles M. Burns; interior profusely
adorned with carving, and sixty-five stained glass windows by Clayton
and Bell, London. ST. STEPHEN’S, Tenth Street above Chestnut; founded,
1823; early Gothic, with two octagonal towers; stone; designed by
William Strickland; contains notable sculpture; the Burd Memorial,
“Angel of the Resurrection,” finest Italian marble, by Carl Steinhauser,
native of Bremen, who studied in Rome under Thorwaldsen; and recumbent
effigy of Colonel Burd; also font by Steinhauser, represents three
cherubs supporting on their wings a large marble bowl, with sculpture in
relief; the church, decorated by Frank Furness, with color, rich and
unusual, sets off admirably the beauty of the memorial marbles; the
stately reredos, with its brilliant Venetian mosaic picture, “The Last
Supper,” was made in 1889, by Salviati, Venice, from cartoons by Henry
Holiday, London, and under his own supervision; large double window in
transept also by Holiday; a Tiffany window is, “Christ Among the
Lilies,” the only flower He mentions in the Evangels, and accepted as
symbol of the resurrection; the window, showing the angel sitting on the
edge of the tomb with partly unfolded wings, is copy of a picture by
Axel Ender, over the altar of a church in Molde, Northern Norway; near
the reredos is “The Angel of Purity,” sculptor Augustus Saint Gaudens,
which suggests his “Amor, Caritas,” owned by the French Government, now
in the Luxembourg; here is also a bas-relief by Charles Grafley of Dr.
David D. Wood, organist of St. Stephen’s for forty-six years; the great
organ was built by C. T. Haskell, Philadelphia, in consultation with Dr.
Wood; pipes were voiced in the church, resulting in a sweetness and just
proportion of tone; its echo organ, located about two hundred feet away,
is in the loft over the chancel. Parish house is on site of the old
graveyard, tombstones are in pavement of cloister; architect, George C.
Mason, Jr. TRINITY, Oxford, Oxford Road and Second Street Pike;
colonial; founded, 1698. Present brick church erected 1711-12; the
transepts and tower later; was the first house of worship in
Pennsylvania, owned and occupied by the Quakers, and presented by them
to the Church of England, for Episcopal use and worship. Chalice and
paten sent by Queen Anne, engraved “Anne Regina,” 1713; she died in
1714, it is probably the last one she sent to America, and has been used
in every Holy Communion for over two centuries. Tiffany altar window,
“The Baptism of Christ.” The altar, of walnut and oak, is beautifully
carved. This is the mother of many flourishing missions, St. Luke’s,
Germantown; Our Saviour, Jenkintown; St. Mark’s, Frankford; Emmanuel,
Holmesburg; Holy Trinity, Rockledge; and Trinity Chapel, Crescentville;
today it stands, vigorous and full of life, in its old age, greatly
enlarged and carefully restored; the utmost care has been taken to
disturb none of the old walls, and to keep the historic features intact;
the glass, in the body of the church, is an opaque yellow, harmonizing
with the colonial buff of the walls and barrel ceiling. The churchyard
is of great interest, one stone, dated, 1686, is said to mark the grave
of an Indian.
=The Reformed Church in the United States=, which brought its beautiful
and significant emblem, “The lily among thorns,” from the fatherland, is
derived from the Reformed Churches of Switzerland and Germany; these
churches are largely to be found in the counties east of the Susquehanna
River. William Penn’s mother, Margaret Jasper, was reared in this faith;
noted members who came here were Michael Schlatter, in 1746, from St.
Gall, Switzerland; sent to establish an ecclesiastical organization; he
was practically the first superintendent of public instruction in
Pennsylvania; died, 1790, and was buried in the Reformed graveyard in
Philadelphia, now Franklin Square; Colonel Henry Bouquet, from
Switzerland, proved the saviour of the early settlers in Pontiac’s war
and obtained the restoration of all captives to their homes; three
hundred and seventy were brought back; and Baron von Steuben, who had
served on the staff of Frederick the Great at the siege of Prague,
drilled our men into efficiency to cope with the British regulars; later
he commanded at the Siege of Yorktown, which he pressed so vigorously
that Cornwallis was obliged to surrender. Zion Reformed Church at
Allentown sheltered our Liberty Bell and the Christ Church bells during
the Revolution; among their thirty churches in Philadelphia and
vicinity, of Gothic architecture, stone, are the FIRST CHURCH, Fiftieth
and Locust Streets; oldest of this denomination in Philadelphia; moved
from Tenth and Wallace Streets; PALATINATE, Fifty-sixth Street and
Girard Avenue; ST. JOHN’S, Fortieth and Spring Garden Streets; and
TRINITY, northeast corner of Broad and Venango Streets. There are also
five churches of the Dutch Reformed.
=Roman Catholic.= The churches of this denomination are all notable for
good architecture, interior sumptuous, ecclesiastical decoration.
CATHEDRAL OF SS. PETER AND PAUL, finely situated on Logan Square and the
Parkway; Classic Renaissance, brownstone; built 1846-64; architect,
Napoleon LeBrun; “The Crucifixion,” back of the high altar, genuine
fresco painting, is by Constantine Brumidi, who, about the same time,
executed important decorations, in the same medium, in the dome of the
Capitol at Washington; on entering the church, in chapels on both sides
of the door, are mural decorations by Henry J. Thouron, said, by high
authority, to be the best mural paintings in the United States; the
first was placed in 1911 as a fitting background for a statue of the
Virgin and Child by Louis Madrazzi, which Mr. Thouron brought from Paris
as a gift to the Cathedral; in the north transept is a painting, “The
Dead Christ,” attributed to Titian; a work of art of exceptional merit
is a large ivory crucifix, the master work of Carlo Pazenti, an
Augustinian lay brother, about 1840; acquired for the church, with much
difficulty, by the venerable John N. Neumann, fourth Bishop of
Philadelphia; when, during the Civil War, the Sanitary Fair was being
held in Logan Square, Archbishop Wood, then Bishop Wood, exhibited this
beautiful work daily, for the benefit of the great cause; it was
returned each evening to its place in the Cathedral. ST. JOHN THE
EVANGELIST, Thirteenth Street above Chestnut, for a short time the
cathedral; early English, Gothic; interior, perpendicular Gothic;
cornerstone laid by Bishop Kenrick, third Bishop of Philadelphia; church
opened April 8, 1832: a flagellation of Christ, much darkened, by
Garacci, was presented to the church by Joseph Bonaparte soon after its
completion: Mozart’s “Requiem Mass” was rendered, for the first time in
America, at St. John’s Church, and the music there today, is said to be
the best church music in Philadelphia. ST. PATRICK’S, Twentieth Street
below Locust, originated in a frame church in 1839, on east side of
Nineteenth Street near Spruce; the seventy-fifth anniversary was
celebrated in 1916, was attended by many notable dignitaries of the
church. Windows by d’Ascenzo. ST. FRANCIS DE SALES, Forty-seventh Street
and Springfield Avenue, Romanesque, with Byzantine details; built,
1907-10; architect, Henry D. Dagit, Philadelphia; the leaded glass is
particularly beautiful; windows are of the antique school and extremely
rich in color, including four rose windows, designed and made by Nicolo
d’Ascenzo, Philadelphia. Four old historic churches rather near
together, ST. JOSEPH’S, on Willing’s Alley, south of Walnut, below
Fourth Street; built on site of first Roman Catholic Church in
Pennsylvania, established by a member of the “Society of Jesus” from
Maryland, in 1731; ST. MARY’S, Fourth Street, above Spruce; ST.
AUGUSTINE’S, Fourth Street, above Race; and HOLY TRINITY, northwest
corner of Sixth and Spruce Streets, had their origin in the eighteenth
century, the first two long before the Revolution. St. Augustine’s is on
site of a building erected in 1801, by the hermits of the Order of St.
Augustine; it had William Rush’s wooden sculpture “The Crucifixion,” but
this was burned in 1847. Holy Trinity, German, is of somewhat earlier
date; the wayfarer who now looks in on any of them may readily picture
them as they were over one hundred years ago. In St. Mary’s Church is a
very fine pieta by Boucher, a modern French sculptor.
=Swedenborgian=, or The New Church, grew out of the teachings of Emmanuel
Swedenborg, scholar, traveler, scientist, and religious writer, born in
Stockholm, Sweden, in 1688. A school of the New Church was started in
Philadelphia in 1854. FIRST “NEW JERUSALEM” CHURCH, Twenty-second and
Chestnut Streets, Gothic, brownstone, was built in 1884; architect,
Theophilus P. Chandler. Connected with it is a free library and reading
room.
=Unitarian.= FIRST CHURCH, Chestnut Street near Twenty-second, built,
1885; was organized, 1796, in a room of the University of Pennsylvania;
in 1797 Dr. Joseph Priestly delivered an address to this Society, and
enrolled himself among the members. William Henry Furness was ordained
pastor in 1825, in the church at the corner of Tenth and Locust Streets;
present church contains some interesting memorials, Dr. Furness, bust by
M. Launt Thompson, New York; circular window to Dr. Priestly by John
LaFarge; other windows are English; and some are by Tiffany, New York.
GIRARD AVENUE UNITARIAN, Girard Avenue above Fifteenth Street, organized
by the Rev. Charles G. Ames, in the late seventies; Gothic, granite.
GERMANTOWN UNITARIAN, corner of Chelten Avenue and Greene Street, built,
1866; Gothic; architect, Frank Furness; has good stained glass windows,
made by Heaton, Butler and Bayne, London. Rev. Samuel Longfellow,
brother of the poet, was pastor for some years; also the Rev. Charles G.
Ames.
FAIRMOUNT PARK
On east and west banks of the Schuylkill River, and Wissahickon Creek;
second largest municipal park in the world, 3597 acres; its only
superior in acreage being Blue Hills Park, Boston, with 4906 acres. The
ravines, “unkempt and wild,” all have springs of clear, cold water. Main
entrance at Green Street is also approach to the proposed PHILADELPHIA
MUSEUM OF ART, on a raised terrace, like a Greek Temple, facing the
Parkway; Horace Trumbauer, C. C. Zantzinger, and Charles L. Borie, Jr.,
architects; part of the plan for development of Philadelphia within a
radius of thirty miles: here also is the “Washington Monument,”
sculptor, Professor Siemering of Berlin, erected by the “Society of the
Cincinnati.” Continue drive, to the Schuylkill River, proposed Ericsson
Memorial, Paul B. Cret, architect, was commissioned to prepare a design
for development of the entire basin, from boat houses to Spring Garden
Street, including the AQUARIUM, formed, 1911, using the classic marble
buildings of the old waterworks; it is said to be the best equipped in
the world; walls of exhibition tanks are covered with calcareous tufa,
rock shell formation from the Ohio River Valley, full of holes, in which
deep water vegetation is planted to suggest sea bottom; Arctic and
tropical life have their own temperatures; also hatching rooms. This
tract and Rocky Hill, of the old waterworks, five acres, between Green
and Callowhill Streets, was named by William Penn, FAIR MOUNT; it was
used as the terminal pillar of the British redoubts, stretching across
the city from the Schuylkill to the Delaware, in 1777-78. Acquired by
the city in 1812 as site for the city waterworks, moved from Centre
Square, for park purposes. This was the beginning of Fairmount Park; to
beautify the grounds, walks were laid out up to the reservoir, and the
rock decorated with sculpture, chiefly woodcarving, by William Rush,
including the groups, “The Schuylkill in an Improved State,” and “The
Schuylkill in Chains,” which are still over the entrances to the wheel
houses; “Justice” and “Wisdom,” full-length statues, carved for
decoration of the triumphal arch in front of the State House at
Lafayette’s reception in 1824, are now in the hatching room; and “Leda
and the Swan,” modeled in 1812 from Miss Vanuxen, a Philadelphia belle,
a bronze reproduction is here now. Boat houses are of decorative
construction. THE SCHUYLKILL NAVY, said to be the most complete
association devoted to rowing in the world, is the center for test
trials of skill and endurance, of national interest; it is known as the
American Henley; the course above Columbia Avenue bridge is ideal for
oarsmen, and the banks rise like seats of an auditorium. On the main
drive from the Aquarium are the LINCOLN MONUMENT, bronze, sculptor,
Randolph Rogers, made in Rome, cast in Munich; Iron Spring, and a bronze
group, “Lioness Carrying to Her Young a Wild Boar,” sculptor, August
Cain; near Brown Street entrance is bronze group, “Silenus and the
Infant Bacchus”; original in the Louvre, credited to Praxiteles; and the
bronze group, “The Wrestlers,” from original antique in the Royal
Gallery, Florence; both reproduced by Barbedienne, Paris.
LEMON HILL MANSION, built by Henry Pratt about 1800, near site of
favorite home of Robert Morris. “The Hills,” planned by Major L’Enfant,
built, 1773; the property was bought by the city in 1844, and dedicated,
in 1855, as a Public Park. Northwest on main drive is GRANT’S CABIN,
headquarters of General U. S. Grant in siege of Richmond, 1864-65,
brought to the Park from City Point, Virginia, at close of Civil War;
opposite is SEDGELEY GUARD HOUSE, formerly the porter’s lodge of the
Sedgeley Park Estate, site of a Gothic mansion, built, 1800, by William
Crammond; acquired for the Park by public-spirited citizens; on same
drive, near east end of Girard Avenue bridge, is the replica bronze
equestrian statue of “JEANNE D’ARC,” sculptor, Fremiet, Paris; among the
best examples of modern French equestrian sculpture. The original is in
“La Place des Pyramids,” Paris.
RIVER DRIVE near boat houses, “Tam O’Shanter,” four figures, red
sandstone, sculptor, Thom; from the last boat house, or the Beacon
Light, to Girard Avenue bridge will be the ELLEN PHILLIPS SAMUEL
MEMORIAL, for which she left $500,000 in 1913; Fairmount Park Art
Association, legatee; “On top of stone bulkhead I will have erected, 100
feet apart, on high granite pedestals, uniform in size and style, the
History of America, symbolized in a system of statuary”; model made by
Edgar V. Seeler. Near are the heroic bronze bust of James A. Garfield,
with allegorical figure, sculptor, Augustus Saint Gaudens; the colossal
bronze equestrian group, “Lion Fighter,” on natural jutting rock,
sculptor, Professor Albert Wolff, cast, 1893; and scattered along, five
bronzed iron fountains, replicas of those at Rond Point, Champs Elysees,
cast in Paris at foundry of Val D’Osne.
North of tunnel, above Girard Avenue bridge, on River Drive, bronze
equestrian statue, “Cowboy,” sculptor, Frederick Remington; a band of
cowboys and Indians participated in the unveiling; River and Fountain
Green Drive, heroic bronze equestrian statue, “General U. S. Grant”;
sculptors, Daniel Chester French for Grant, Edward C. Potter for horse,
modeled from the nineteen-year-old gelding, “General Grant,” sired by
an Arabian stallion (Leopold), presented to the General in 1878 by the
Sultan of Turkey; cast by Bureau Bros., Philadelphia, mounted on
Jonesboro granite pedestal, designed by Frank Miles Day and Brother.
Columbia Avenue entrance, fountain of “Orestes and Pylades,” bronze
group, on Richmond granite pedestal, with bronze masks; sculptor, Carl
Steinhauser, Calsruhe, Germany; cast in Philadelphia; near is the
Children’s Playground building, erected by Richard and Sarah Smith in
1898; and a park mansion, MT. PLEASANT, land bought from Phineas Bond by
John MacPherson, who built the house in 1761, after style of a house in
Scotland owned by the chief of his clan, the MacPhersons of Clunie; in
1779, purchased by Benedict Arnold; on his conviction for treason, it
was confiscated by the state; in 1781-82 Baron von Steuben occupied it,
and here wrote the army regulations which created the American Army; in
1868 it became property of the city, and was added to Fairmount Park.
ROCKLAND comes next, on west side of Dairy Ball Field, occupied 1750-65
by John Lawrence, a notable mayor of Philadelphia; near Rockland is
ORMISTON, colonial, owned by Edward Burd, prothonotary, Supreme Court of
Pennsylvania, named for Scotch home of Mrs. Burd, daughter of Lord
Haliburton of Ormiston, who founded the Burd Orphan Asylum; near Dauphin
Street entrance, Grand Fountain, bronze and iron, and park trolley
station.
Northwest is WOODFORD mansion; ground deeded by Penn to Dennis Rockford
in 1693; house built, 1742, by William Coleman, an original member of
the Junto Club; friend of Franklin and Judge of the Supreme Court of
Pennsylvania, colonial, brick; original oak floor is still in fine state
of preservation; boards doweled together; laths are hand-cut, and
handwork on cornices and wainscoting most beautiful; fireplace and
mantel in main room are worthy of attention, although now marred by
paint; later it became the home of the Franks family; EDGELEY ball
field, site of residence built by Philip Syng Physick, 1828-36,
Professor of Surgery at University of Pennsylvania and first American to
be elected member of the Royal Academy of France; the RANDOLPH MANSION
is west of Edgeley; interesting colonial house with beautiful handwork
in cornices.
STRAWBERRY MANSION, near Dauphin Street entrance; residence of William
Lewis; then called Summerville, now used as a restaurant; name was given
when added to the park; fine colonial architecture; main hall shows
still how beautiful it must have been, with exquisite handwork on
cornices, wainscoting, and niches in the hall ornamented with hand
tracery.
Along the river drive we pass other country seats known as Harleigh,
Fairy Hill, and the Laurels, now South, Central, and North Laurel Hill.
Near the Falls on east side of Ridge Road, stood the home of Governor
Thomas Mifflin, the fighting Quaker; from the Falls bridge a fine view
is obtained of the Schuylkill Navy’s race course.
Farther up is the WISSAHICKON Creek, Wisamickan (Catfish Creek), or
Wisaucksickan (yellow colored stream); we enter the deep recesses of
this ravine, where the waters empty into the Schuylkill River;
tradition says that on the northwest bank stood a flour mill; in
Revolutionary times the owner ground glass or plaster, with the wheat,
for the patriot army, for this crime some of Washington’s soldiers
hanged him on a tree in front of his mill; here General Armstrong’s
corps attacked the Hessian and British soldiers, October 4, 1777, while
the Battle of Germantown was in progress: up the Wissahickon drive is
Maple Spring Hotel, decorated by grotesque figures of animals and birds,
carved out of native laurel; beyond this, across the stream, are abrupt
bluffs, from one, the most prominent, called Lover’s Leap, tradition
says, a young Indian and the girl whom he loved, being forbidden to
marry, plunged into the waters below and were drowned; a steep grade
leads to the six-mile stone; here Paper Mill Run empties into the
Wissahickon, and here Nicholas Rittenhouse had his grist mill; just
beyond, close beside an old bridge, is a quaint old house, inside is a
stone tablet marked “C. W. R. 1707,” here DAVID RITTENHOUSE, the famous
astronomer, was born; on Paper Mill Run, the first paper mill in this
country was erected, about 1690, by William Rittenhouse: a portion of
this land near Tulpehocken Street, within park limits, once belonged to
the Queen of Spain; farther is the Blue Stone Bridge, and just beyond is
Lotus Inn.
Northward, the east shore becomes more steep, to Mom Rinker’s Rock, she
is said to have been a witch; upon the height stands a statue of WILLIAM
PENN, with the single word “Toleration” cut on the pedestal; the statue
and land were given to the city, for park purposes, by Hon. John Welsh,
ex-minister to England.
One quarter mile farther is Kitchen Lane, and the HERMIT’S WELL, dug by
Johannes Kelpius, scholar and mystic, who came from Germany with his
followers, forty men, the number of perfection, in 1694, “to the new
world, to see the dawn of the millennium; the pathway to the Light
Illumitable, in the glory of religious liberty in Pennsylvania”; they
were followers of the Essenes who lived in the solitudes of the Dead
Sea, of which St. John the Baptist is said to have been a member; the
Ridge and Valley of the Wissahickon gave them a temple of sacred
grandeur; places there are now known as Hermit’s Land, and Hermit’s
Glen; the piety and humility of Kelpius made him renowned; John Rogers
of Connecticut and leaders of other colonies came long distances to
consult this great Magister, he lived wholly to the service of God and
his fellow men; the Baptistry, a place in the creek, is shown where the
monks immersed their converts; after Kelpius’ death, about 1710, his
followers built the monastery, replaced in 1752 by a stone house, built
by Joseph Gorgas, also called the monastery; ruins still there: the
bones of these faithful men are interred under the floor, in the chancel
of St. Michael’s Protestant Episcopal Church, High Street, Germantown;
also some of their original headstones are there: their books were
given, in 1728, to Christ Church, Philadelphia, where they may still be
seen: the cult is now found about Ephrata, among the Seventh Day
Baptists.
Beyond the monastery, near Livezey’s Lane, are caves, said to have been
the abode of hermits. Half a mile farther is Livezey’s mansion, built,
1698, said to have been neutral ground where British and American
officers met during 1777-78; now headquarters of the Valley Green Canoe
Club; above is Cresheim Creek, a small tributary flowing into the
Wissahickon Creek, among great masses of huge rocks, under tall pines,
making a dark pool, called the Devil’s Pool; said to be bottomless;
scene of an engagement during the Battle of Germantown. Just beyond is
Valley Green, a quaint old wayside inn; here is a stone bridge with
strong buttresses and single arch; the reflection makes a clear oval;
farther is the first drinking fountain erected in Philadelphia, “Pro
Bono Publico,” placed in 1854; white marble; half a mile beyond, at east
end of Rex Avenue Bridge, is Indian Rock, summit crowned by heroic
statue of Tedyuscung, last of Indian chiefs to leave the shores of the
Delaware. Northwest the ravine is deep and the hills steep, winding
toward Chestnut Hill. It is proposed by the city to extend Fairmount
Park, on both sides of the Wissahickon, to Fort Washington, and include
Militia Hill at Whitemarsh, famous in the Revolution, making the Park
one thousand acres larger.
WEST PARK, west end of Girard Avenue Bridge, ZOÖLOGICAL GARDENS, open
daily, including Sundays; in front, bronze group, “The Dying Lioness”;
sculptor, Professor Wilhelm Wolff, Berlin, cast in Munich. The inclosure
embraces SOLITUDE, a mansion built in 1785 by John Penn, the poet,
grandson of the founder and cousin of John Penn of Lansdowne; was last
property owned in America by the Penn family; notable decorations are in
the ground floor room; ceiling, fine example of French stucco, Louis XV
period. The Zoölogical Gardens were incorporated in 1859; oldest
incorporated body of its kind in America; on an area of forty-one acres
arranged by H. Schwarzmann in 1873, opened, 1874, with large and
attractive buildings, in which representative species of living animals
are shown; it is a private organization; the Pathological Laboratory has
for its objects, assistance in the hygienic control of the Garden;
collection of statistics upon diseases of wild animals; and research:
many species of water, and other birds, are on the large lake, and
inclosures scattered through the Garden.
Opposite, on Girard Avenue, is WILLIAM PENN’S HOUSE, originally in
Letitia Street, near Second and Market; first brick house in
Philadelphia, built, 1683, removed in 1883; LANDSDOWNE ENTRANCE to the
Park, under two spacious elliptical arches of the Pennsylvania Railroad
viaduct, carrying the railroad across Girard Avenue, is a dignified and
handsome structure. Near is bronze group, “Hudson Bay Wolves,” sculptor,
Edward Kemeys, cast in Philadelphia.
In 1732, “The State in Schuylkill,” a fishing club, first social club in
Philadelphia, leased an acre of land near here, and built a hut; annual
rental, three sun perch, presented on a pewter plate; they were here for
ninety years; now in New Jersey; the members espoused the Revolutionary
cause, and in 1774 formed a Company, called “The Light Horse,”
afterwards, in 1778, became the First City Troop.
On Lansdowne Drive is SWEET BRIER MANSION, built by Samuel Breck about
1810; colonial, in the hall is an interesting wrought iron grill; in
front is bronze Indian group, THE STONE AGE, sculptor, John J. Boyle;
cast in France. THE SMITH MEMORIAL GATE, to Pennsylvania men
distinguished in the Civil War, is at entrance to the Esplanade;
architects, James and John T. Windrim, erected, with statuary,
1897-1912; sculpture all colossal; equestrian, Major General Hancock,
sculptor, J. Q. A. Ward; and Major General McClellan, sculptor, Edward
C. Potter; statues, Major General Meade, sculptor, Daniel Chester
French; Major General Reynolds, sculptor, Charles Grafly; Richard Smith,
sculptor, Herbert Adams; busts, Admiral Porter, sculptor, Charles
Grafly; Major General Hartranft, sculptor, A. Stirling Calder; Admiral
Dahlgren, sculptor, George E. Bissel; James H. Windrim, sculptor, Samuel
Murray; Major General S. W. Crawford, sculptor, Bessie O. Potter Vonnoh;
Governor Curtin, sculptor, Moses Ezekiel; General James A. Beaver,
sculptor, Katharine M. Cohen; John B. Gest, sculptor, Charles Grafly;
two eagles and globes, sculptor, J. Massey Rhind.
The JOHN WELSH MEMORIAL, President of the CENTENNIAL EXPOSITON, formal
Garden, with fountain, on site of Centennial main building, Parkside
Avenue approach to Memorial Hall; “Florentine Lions,” cast by Harrison,
Winans and Eastwick at Alexandroffsky, Russia, in 1849, from pair at
entrance of Imperial Mechanical Works, originals at entrance to Loggia
di Lanzi, Florence; MEMORIAL HALL, front terrace, bronze, Spanish
cannon, Miltiades, date, 1743; bronze, Spanish cannon, Semiramis, date,
1737; bronze, Spanish mortar, date, 1731, from fortifications in Cuba;
carved decorations with Spanish royal arms of Philip and Elizabeth
Farnese; two bronze groups: “Winged Horses,” led by muses of epic and
lyric poetry, Calliope and Clio; sculptor, Pilz, made for Vienna Opera
House, Austria; Memorial Hall, German Renaissance; architect, Hermann J.
Schwarzmann; contains complete model of the arrangement of the
Centennial buildings, made to scale by John Baird; first International
Exposition held in America; when our national art was invigorated by
competition with masterpieces of other lands, and now challenges
comparison with the best: also Pompeian collection of paintings,
illustrative of Pompeian life; and bronze face and hands of Abraham
Lincoln; casts taken from first replicas, of original casts from life,
in 1860; sculptor, Leonard W. Volk, Chicago; for collections, see Art.
North of Memorial Hall is heroic bronze equestrian statue, MAJOR GENERAL
GEORGE GORDON MEADE, sculptor, Alexander Milne Calder.
HORTICULTURAL HALL, erected 1876, on site of LANSDOWNE MANSION, built by
Governor John Penn in 1773; stone; Italian; in 1816, leased by Joseph
Bonaparte for two years, accidentally destroyed by fire in 1854. In
1866, the land was acquired from Barney family for the park; Moorish
style, architect, Hermann J. Schwarzmann, also responsible for plan of
adjacent sunken garden: no other building for similar purposes in this
country can approach it, in dignity of design: contains marble statue
“Il Penseroso,” sculptor, Mosier, acquired, 1874. Notable plants housed
in this building are a gigantic specimen of _Attalea Cohiene_, bay oil
palm, from Central America, possibly most superb palm to be seen under
glass anywhere; _Phœnix Canariensis_ from the Canary Islands;
_Seaforthias_ from Australia; _Howeas_ from Lord Howe’s Island; Cocoa
palms; _Ceroxylon_, wax palms, towering sixty or seventy feet; giant
Rubber trees; _Araucarias_ from Australia; Bamboos from the Orient; and
lofty Tree Ferns from New Zealand unite to produce a wonderfully
impressive scene, not unlike a glorified tropical forest, emphasized by
training creepers up the lofty stems, growing ferns and orchids in
crotches of the limbs, and by the strange aerial roots which reach down
from these clinging plants to seek nourishment in the soil below, as in
the tropical jungle. The Cactus house is arranged to give something the
effect of arid regions, by planting in sterile soil; the Fern houses,
with superb collections of Tree Ferns, and smaller growing _Adiantums_,
_Nephrolepis_, _Acrostichums_, recall the effect of mountain ravines. A
special house is given to the Cycads or Sago palms, survivals of
vegetation of fossil beds, of which this collection is unique in this
country. Another tropical house contains the _Bromeliad_ or pineapple
family, collection unique in many respects.
In the gardens, most striking features are the rare trees, golden larch,
Pseudo-Larix; the Gordonias, _Franklinias_; oaks. East front has bronze
busts of SCHUBERT, granite pedestal with bronze bas-relief; “Music,”
sculptor, Henry Baerer, New York; HAYDEN, a trophy won by United Singers
of Philadelphia at the National Saengerfest; VERDI, on artistic
sandstone pedestal, with carved figure; “Religious Liberty,” marble,
sculptor, Moses Ezekiel; presented by the Hebrew Society B’nai B’rith. A
short walk east, near Columbia Avenue bridge, is said to be Tom Moore’s
cottage; the poet was a frequent guest both at Belmont and Ormiston,
with communication by boat.
THE SUNKEN GARDEN, west, rearranged to conform to Moorish ideals of
garden approaches, is now a pool, about eight hundred feet long, similar
to that before the Taj Mahal, flanked on both sides by spreading
Oriental planes; beyond this central feature are flower gardens,
following the Oriental in color arrangement, making an effect of noble
proportions. A bronze SUNDIAL shows the variations for each month of the
year, and the time at twelve o’clock in twelve principal cities of the
world; on Tennessee marble pedestal, with four supporting female
figures, emblematic of the four seasons; sculptor, A. Sterling Calder.
Bronze statues of Schiller, made in 1886, granite pedestal with bronze
panels in bas-relief representing poetry, history, drama; and of his
friend Goethe, made in 1890, granite pedestal decorated with bronze
laurel wreaths.
Roman Catholic CENTENNIAL FOUNTAIN, erected by the Total Abstinence
Societies, sculptor, Herman Kern. JAPANESE TEMPLE GATE and lotus pond,
near Belmont Avenue, part of Japanese exhibit in St. Louis, in 1904,
showing best Japanese work of three hundred years ago; also on way to
George’s Hill are, the Ohio, English, and Rhode Island Centennial
buildings. GEORGE’S HILL, eighty-three acres, acquired by bequest to the
City of Philadelphia, in 1868, through the Fairmount Park Commission,
for the health and enjoyment of the people forever.
BELMONT MANSION, built, 1743, by William Peters, stone, on estate of two
hundred acres, approached by avenue of tall hemlocks, ninety feet high.
Washington and Lafayette both planted trees here; view down the
Schuylkill is like the Rhine; City Hall Tower focuses the eyes in the
distance; Richard Peters, his son, wit and scholar, born here, was made
Judge of the United States District Court of Pennsylvania by Washington;
who was entertained here; also Hancock, the Adamses, Jefferson, Steuben,
Talleyrand, and Louis Philippe.
North of Belmont is RIDGELAND, once private residence; continue
northeast near Park Trolley Station, CHAMOUNIX mansion, formerly known
as Mount Prospect for its fine situation; built, 1802, by George
Plumstead, a Philadelphia merchant.
OTHER SQUARES AND PARKS
William Penn, in his city plan, laid out five squares. PENN SQUARE,
Broad and Market Streets, site of early waterworks; now occupied by City
Hall; WASHINGTON, Sixth and Walnut Streets; first Potter’s Field;
RITTENHOUSE, Eighteenth and Walnut Streets, remodeled like a French
park; playground for children of city’s social center; LION AND SERPENT,
bronze; sculptor, Barye; replica of one in the Garden of the Tuilleries,
Paris; THE DUCK GIRL, bronze; sculptor, Paul Manship; BILLY, sculptor,
Albert Laessle. LOGAN, on the Parkway; SWAN MEMORIAL FOUNTAIN to be in
center, sculptor, A. Sterling Calder. This was the second Potter’s
Field, and place of public executions; site of Sanitary Fair, in 1864,
for the Civil War, visited by President and Mrs. Lincoln, pronounced
most brilliant affair ever held in America. FRANKLIN, Sixth and Race
Streets, formerly a burial ground.
Broad Street, running north and south, is 113 feet wide and 12 miles
long from League Island to City Line. BURHOLME, near Fox Chase, museum
and library given and maintained by provision in will of Robert W.
Ryerss; over forty-eight acres; opened to public in 1910. CLARK’S,
Forty-third Street and Chester Avenue, has artistic bronze group,
DICKENS AND LITTLE NELL, made in 1890; sculptor, Frank Edwin Elwell;
awarded gold medals, Philadelphia, 1891; Chicago, 1893. COBB’S CREEK,
338 acres, formed, 1904; follows Cobb’s Creek on east bank; chiefly
steep, tree-covered slopes for 107 acres; crossing at Mount Moriah
Cemetery; widens, north of Market Street, into rolling landscape; has
public golf links. FERNHILL, ten acres, bounded by Wissahickon Avenue,
Roberts Avenue, Schuyler Street, and Abbottsford Avenue, Germantown;
memorial to Mr. and Mrs. Thomas McKean, part of their old homestead,
given by their children to Park Commissioners with endowment. FISHER,
twenty acres; near North Penn branch, Reading Railway; acquired by gift,
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