Modern cookery for private families by Eliza Acton
introduction of these last into pies unless they are especially ordered:
567 words | Chapter 50
mushrooms or truffles may be mixed with any kind of forcemeat with far
better effect. Equal parts of veal and fat bacon, will also make a good
forcemeat for pies, if chopped finely, and well spiced.
Sausage-meat, well seasoned. Or: veal, 1 lb.; pork-fat, 1-1/2 lb.; salt,
1 oz.; pepper, 1/4 to 1/2 oz.; fine herbs, spice, &c., as in forcemeat
No. 1, or sausage-meat. Or: veal and bacon, equal weight, seasoned in
the same way.
PANADA.
This is the name given to the soaked bread which is mixed with the
French forcemeats, and which renders them so peculiarly delicate. Pour
on the crumb of two or three rolls, or on that of any other very light
bread, as much good boiling broth, milk, or cream, as will cover and
moisten it well; put a plate over to keep in the steam, and let it
remain for half an hour, or more; then drain off the superfluous liquid,
and squeeze the panada dry by wringing it in a thin cloth into a ball;
put it into a small stewpan or enamelled saucepan, and pour to it as
much only of rich white sauce or of gravy as it can easily absorb, and
stir it constantly with a wooden spoon over a clear and gentle fire,
until it forms a very dry paste and adheres in a mass to the spoon; when
it is in this state, mix with it thoroughly the unbeaten yolks of two
fresh eggs, which will give it firmness, and set it aside to become
quite cold before it is put into the mortar. The best French cooks give
the highest degree of savour that they can to this panada, and add no
other seasoning to the forcemeats of which it forms a part: it is used
in an equal proportion with the meat, and with the calf’s udder or
butter of which they are composed, as we have shown in the preceding
receipt for _quenelles_. They stew slowly for the purpose, a small bit
of lean ham, two or three minced eschalots, a bay-leaf, a few mushrooms,
a little parsley, a clove or two, and a small blade of mace in a little
good butter, and when they are sufficiently browned, pour to them as
much broth or gravy as will be needed for the panada; and when this has
simmered from twenty to thirty minutes, so as to have acquired the
proper flavour without being much reduced, they strain it over, and boil
it into the bread. The common course of cookery in an English kitchen
does not often require the practice of the greater niceties and
refinements of the art: and _trouble_ (of which the French appear to be
perfectly regardless when the excellence of their preparations is
concerned) is there in general so much thought of, and exclaimed
against, that a more summary process would probably meet with a better
chance of success.
A quicker and rougher mode of making the panada, and indeed the
forcemeat altogether, is to pour strong veal broth or gravy upon it, and
after it has soaked, to boil it dry, without any addition except that of
a little fine spice, lemon-grate, or any other favourite English
seasoning. Minced herbs, salt, cayenne, and mace, may be beaten with the
meat, to which a small portion of well-pounded ham may likewise be added
at pleasure.
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